Taking it to extremes: The history of the Rolex Explorer

As the name implies, the Rolex Explorer is built for adventure and is able to keep going through virtually any extreme conditions. Explorers have worn their watches whilst climbing mountains and exploring caves in remote places, putting the watch to the test in extreme weather conditions.  The watch has performed perfectly and proved that it’s fit for purpose.  

But more than that, these expeditions and incredible adventures have built a legend around the Rolex Explorer that continues, even though the majority of owners do not put the watch through such extremes.  But it’s good to know - they could if they wanted. 

It’s said that In 1953 Sherpa Tenzing Norgay wore the watch when he accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary to the top of Mount Everest. 

In 2001, Rolex introduced the Explorer reference 114270.  Its 36mm case contained the calibre 3130.  It was  discontinued in 2010 and replaced with reference 213270 which had a 3132 calibre movement.    The case size was increased to 39mm, which wasn’t particularly popular with Rolex traditionalists who felt that the 36mm was the perfect size for this particular style.  Rolex wearers who actually wore the watch for extreme adventures felt that the increased size was slightly clumsy compared to the original. 

Rolex must have heard the fans, because in 2021 they released the Explorer back in its original size of 36mm, in the form of the reference 124270.   

Oystersteel Rolex Explorer 124270 - aesthetics 

The black face is simple and extremely easy to read.  The 3, 6 and 9 are in Arabic numbers.  The 12 is represented with a triangle and the remaining hour markers are batons.  The hour markers and hands are filled with Rolex’s own luminescent material which makes it easy to read in darkness.  Minutes are represented by small dashes all around the edge of the watch face.  

The bezel is smooth steel and the bracelet is equipped with the Oysterlock system which includes the 5mm extension link for comfort and confident wearing even during sports activities.  The bracelet width starts at 19mm and tapers to 14mm. 

The crystal is treated with anti-glare so although your watch will gleam on your wrist when you wear it, you’ll easily be able to tell the time without having to tilt the watch face away from light. 

In terms of stye, this is a watch that is classic and simple.  A man could wear this with any suit as well as casual wear.  A woman could wear it with a business outfit and look superb, but in the right circumstances, could also carry it off for a slightly edgy evening wear look.  While we know that you can wear this watch for hiking, mountain climbing and trips to the antarctic, it still makes a quietly profound fashion statement, like all Rolex watches.  

The inner workings 

The Rolex Explorer 124270 is fitted with the 3230 calibre - the same calibre as the Submariner.  This perpetual, mechanical, self-winding calibre was introduced in 2020 and has accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day.  High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers protect it really well from shock while the paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring protects it from magnetism. It has an impressive 70 hour power reserve and is waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet).  

Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 - Essential Information 

Diameter: 36mm

Dial finish: Black

Lume: Chromalight

Water resistance level: 100 metres (330 feet) 

Bracelet: Oystersteel with Oysterlock system

Movement: 3230

Power reserve: 70 hours

What’s the value of the Explorer reference 124270? 

The current RRP for the 14270 is just under £6000.  Pre-owned prices are somewhat higher.  Like most Rolex watches, this reference is likely to increase in value over time. 

Conclusion

If you’re a fan of vintage Rolex, you’re likely to have a soft spot for the Explorer and you might be excited to see this reimagined 36mm Explorer come to the marketplace.  There’s nothing like owning part of the Rolex history.  

If you’re comparing the older version of the 36mm, you might find that the 19mm lug width is an important consideration.  Some collectors love to switch bracelets which is easy on any watch with the 20mm lug width.  Be aware that the 19mm will make it more difficult to swap bracelets. 

Note that the new 36mm Explorer is also available with a two-tone bracelet of Oystersteel and gold as reference 124273.  

If you’re looking for an Explorer - or another luxury watch to invest in, contact us for expert help with finding the one you have in mind. 

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