The more one knows about watches the more one appreciates their hidden parts. More than the materials selected, more than the styling of the face, case and strap, it is the movement that is the heart and soul of the timepiece.
To be considered a true watchmaker, a company must produce its own movements. Automatic movements have proved to be the most covetable. Put simply, automatic costs more than manual or electronic.
These usually invisible mechanics are the shared secret of all watch lovers. As you are reading this, we must assume you are a member of that club. In which case, we are pleased to advise you on the evolution of the automatic movement.
Powered by the natural motion of the wearer, most automatic movements feature a semi-circular rotor that is weighted to turn when the watch is moved. This moves gears that wind a mainspring that powers the watch. Power is stored in the mainspring allowing the watch to run for a couple of days, even if it is not worn.
Amazingly, the technology of automatic movements precedes the wristwatch. In 1777 Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet used an oscillating weight in a pocket watch that, according to contemporary reports, fully wound the watch after 15 minutes of walking.
As wristwatches gained popularity after the first world war, automatic movements became more practical. Wristwatches are subject to more motion than pocket watches, giving them more kinetic power to harvest. In 1923, Englishman John Harwood invented the “bumper” movement, with a pivoting weight that swung with the wearer’s arm, winding the mainspring while moving in one direction.
In 1930, Rolex entered the fray. Improving on Harwood’s design, the company launched the Oyster Perpetual. It increased the distance the weight could move, and it improved the mainspring so it could store around 35 hours’ worth of power.
Perhaps at this point we should discuss the quartz movement. At Chrono Hunter, we are of the opinion that electronically charged movements are the chronological equivalent of the pre-tied bow tie. That is to say they are more accurate but have less character. The readymade bow tie will always be neat and perform its function, but one you tie yourself will add the dash of dishevelment that signals true style.
Even Rolex dabbled with quartz movements from 1976 to 2001 but then decided this was not the route to take.
The working of the automatic has barely changed, with most movements still powered by a rotor with the energy stored in the mainspring. Improvements in accuracy and efficiency have mostly come from refinements in materials. Silicon mainsprings and other improvements have minimised friction and improved accuracy. Now the best certified automatic watch movements are accurate to within plus or minus one or two seconds per day.
With an automatic watch on your wrist, you are not just wearing an assembly of precious metals curated by a coveted brand. You are wearing an exquisite piece of engineering that many people have worked on over 150 years to refine and perfect. And the best ones will outlive you.