REVIEW: Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R Rose Gold

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R Rose Gold

Back in 2015, Patek Philippe unleashed its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 in white gold. As a somewhat unconventional take on a 1932 classic, it certainly made for a talking point at that year’s BaselWorld.

The 2015 white gold model was clearly unlike anything Patek Philippe had previously manufactured. While it is true that the brand did create military pilots watches back in the 1930s, the combination of materials and design seemed to clash for some purists.

However, it could be the case that perhaps the 5524 was simply misunderstood at the time – as some three years later, Patek Philippe returned with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R Rose Gold. This 2018 version is almost identical to the white gold incarnation, although there are some interesting tweaks that certainly raise the bar a little.

The history of a classic pilot’s watch

To understand the appeal of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R Rose Gold watch, we first have to take a look back at the Patek’s vintage Hour-Angle designs, which could be used for navigating alongside a radio signal and a sextant. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time series borrows heavily from these classic timepieces, and it’s clearly obvious in the sense that it looks unlike anything else Patek Philippe has produced in the 21st century.

While the 5524R is not a complete reissue of the Hour-Angle design, there are several features which draw heavily from Patek Philippe’s 1930s output for inspiration – more of which we’ll take a look at below.

What’s new with the Patek Philippe 5524R Rose Gold edition?

Quite simply, there’s been a change to the colours used in both the dial and the case, and that’s literally it. With a sunburst brown dial, it’s fair to say that the 5524R feels a little warmer, friendlier and more alluring than the 5524G. This dial works wonderfully with the updated rose gold case and gold-edged white Super-LumiNova Arabic numerals (a nod to the 30s) and presents itself as an altogether more attractive affair in comparison to the cold, clinical monochrome styles of the 5524G.

With a 42mm dial, the Patek Philippe 5524R looks casual and sporty while still retaining class. On the wrist, it can appear larger on account of its sizable crown and pushers designed for adjusting the travel time complication. These are located at 8 o’clock and 10 o’clock and allow the owner to quickly move the hourly hand forward in single increments as they traverse time zones. While the location of these complications can cause a comfort issue for some, the watch sits quite nicely and is unimposing enough to pair with a cuffed shirt.

A second, stencilled hour hand remains fixed to display time at home, with smaller apertures to the left and right which highlight whether it is daytime or night-time in each of the respective time zones. If you’re back in your home time zone or have no need for this function, you can simply adjust the hour so that it aligns and covers the stencilled “home time” hand, thereby creating the appearance of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R as a standard three-hand watch. It’s an interesting feature, for sure.

Understanding the movement

Patek Philippe’s 5524R makes use of its acclaimed 324 S C FUS movement, which is found in several other Patek classics like the Aquanaut Travel Time. It’s a self-winding movement which contains a total of 294 parts, including a Spiromax spring and Gyromax balance.

The central rotor is manufactured from 21k gold and is large and powerful enough to maintain a power reserve of 35 hours while beating at 4Hz. Like most Patek Philippe movements, it is beautifully decorated and clearly visible through the sapphire display case back. At this point, it’s worth noting that the 324 S C FUS is not a particularly large movement, and measures just 31mm in width. The 42mm case of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R is therefore reasonably larger than the movement, and it’s possible to observe this when you look at the back of the watch. Whether you’re looking to buy a Patek Philippe or sell a Patek Philippe, it’s worth mentioning that this case gap doesn’t particularly affect the quality or demand for the 5524R or other Travel Time watches which employ the same technique. It’s simply an affirmation of Patek Philippe’s craftsmanship.

Pricing

Upon its launch at BaselWorld 2018, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R Rose Gold had a tentative price tag of £35,000. Intrigue around the watch meant that it quickly sold out, meaning your only chance to buy a Patek Philippe 5524R is on the secondary market. Naturally, demand for this model has seen its price appreciate over the past two years, which is good news if you’re looking to sell a Patek Philippe 5524R. Some examples of the Rose Gold Calatrava Travel Time in mint condition have been advertised by retailers to sell in the region of £41,000.

Conclusion

The 2015 release of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time certainly broke new ground, and with the 2018 model Patek Philippe seemed to certainly take initial criticisms on board while fine-tuning the design. As of 2020, it should come as no surprise that the 5524R model is now one of the most popular Patek Philippe timepieces in recent history, and it can be incredibly difficult to secure one – even on the secondary market.

In many respects, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R is a piece that must be seen and handled to be understood. It carries all the expected Patek Philippe hallmarks in that it is uniquely attractive, extremely well-manufactured and incredibly functional. While Patek Philippe watches are often understated, the 5524R brings something a little louder to the table, and there’s undoubtedly demand for that.

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