FROM NODUS TO VORTIC, HERE'S OUR BEST MICROBRANDS FOR SERIOUS WATCH CONNOISSEURS

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Our passion for horology knows no bounds. In fact, we could go on till the end of time about some of the timekeeping big hitters that have made a cultural and historical impact.

With stars like Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, to the entry level luxury brands like TAG Heuer, Tudor and Breitling, in terms of desirability, exclusivity and legacy, sometimes it can all become a bit of a one horse race.

But now, microbrand watches have started to fill a hole in the hearts of horophiles. It’s like being on the Underground in London. Mind The Gap may be the call, but you may sink into the abyss if you venture down this fascinating rabbit hole with us.

No longer do we need to set aside large chunks of hard-earned cash to finance German engineering like A. Lange & Söhne, or catch a flight to Japan to buy a Grand Seiko, with nature calling at every turn of the movement. Interestingly, microbrand watches have earned their independence, allowing them complete creative control, ensuring maximum uniqueness and more style points than London Fashion Week.

Throw in limited edition models for good measure like the Pizza Party model from Studio Underd0g that flew off the tables at British Watchmakers Day, and you have a recipe for timekeeping success.

Representing one of the fastest growing sectors, they offer a personalised experience to customers due to their small-scale operation, are more likely to take buyer feedback like Atelier Wen, and are not caught in retaining a certain “image” like the big boys. Oh this lot know their beans alright.

We don’t know about you, but we like our opinion to be heard.

That probably explains why Chrono Hunter is the go-to platform for buyers and sellers, letting you remain in control, while delivering multiple offers from our exclusive network of the best retailers!

With microbrand watches released from brands like AnOrdain and Nodus, this demonstrates that horology does not have to be locked in with the top Swiss watch brands. Now, it’s only fair we unveil the ultimate guide on the best microbrand watches that have got us hot under the collar (and wrist)

Are you ready? It’s time to get things off our chest and start the clock!

1. Studio Underd0g

Founded: 2021 / Top Collection: 01SERIES / CEO (As of October 2024): Richard Benc

Studio Underd0g offer by far some of the freshest and most enigmatic watches to date.

Source - Studio Underd0g

In fact, Chrono Hunter has carefully taken time to express our unrequited love for them in two articles that you can view right here:

So, how can we chart the success of this phenomenal brand? 2024 has seen them collaborate with Swiss icons, H. Moser & Cie to produce some funky passion fruit pieces, which, for H. Moser & Cie is on par with their current output. Need we mention their Endeavour Vantablack and Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon Dial models?

The brand's formation was after those dreaded 2020 COVID lockdowns. After seeing that, the main change in the industry during that year was a 1mm case increase. CEO Richard Benc felt compelled to shake things up a little by releasing his own brand…Studio Underd0g.

Studio Underd0g Models

Launched in March 2021, the release rate of microbrand watches from Studio Underd0g has been sensational, and almost as busy as the conveyor belt of releases from Grand Seiko. Oh they have been busy boys indeed.

We’ve seen the enigmatic Series01 release with brushed stainless steel Watermel0n, with luscious pink, seedy centre and green periphery, protected by a sapphire crystal, as well as the equally cool Mint Ch0c Chip, boasting a rich, light green dial with brown, chocolate inspired periphery and sub-counter.

The 02Series and 03Series are not to be sniffed at either. Incorporating the 02Series Pink Lem0nade with its pink and yellow gradient dial and beige strap, to this year’s 03Series Salm0n with its inspiration lying behind a fishy smell entering their production facility based in the British village of Pangbourne, these guys really are setting the horological stage on fire!

2. Vortic

Founded: 2013 / Top Collection: Chicago 064 / CEO (As of October 2024): R.T Custer and Tyler Wolfe

Right, pack your bags. We’re flying to America to unleash the details behind the marvellous microbrand watches from Vortic. With such a cryptic name, you’d expect these American’s to be a little mad…and they are! Not quite the Alice in Wonderland of timepieces, but you catch our drift.

Source - Vortic

Their story started out at University, wherein the likely lads, R.T Custer and Tyler Wolfe used a metal 3D printer to produce models for their project. After realising the possibilities of such a machine, they used it again, but this time with fabulous, antique American-made pocket movements to produce exceptional timepieces.

Founded in 2013, Vortic has now affixed themselves to horophiles' hearts as the brand that’s bringing back American horology. Born In The USA? You bet your bottom dollar. Through a complex method of producing a case that matched the design codes of the antique movements, Vortic has been able to produce an entirely unique aesthetic, by recycling some of America’s greatest movements.

Now operating out of Fort Collins Colorado, Vortic has been on the headlines of all the industry front pages, including NPR, The Boston Globe…and now us.

Vortic Models

Due to the complexity of their work, Vortic does not produce pieces in exceptionally large amounts. In fact, they are very transparent in stating that everything inside their models is old, but everything on the outside is new, including using Gorilla Glass crystals on the top of their novelties. No sapphire here we are afraid (sigh)

Models like the Chicago 064 features a movement by the Elgin Watch Company who were, you guessed it, based in Chicago. As the largest manufacturer in the US and the world for over 100 years until 1964, this is a testament to the immense heritage and knowledge that goes behind Vortic’s pieces.

Mind you some of their other microbrand watches are nearly as thrilling as Daniel Craig putting enthusiasts on high alert when revealing his Omega Speedmaster in New York last year.

From the Springfield 066 that comes in machined bronze and features a movement from the vintage Illinois Watch Company to the steel Royal Pheon Watch that has a movement made by the Hamilton Watch Company, this is the very same enterprise that produced models for the soldiers during World War II and earned the nickname for their watches, the piece that won the war.

We really can’t express just how spectacular the fusion of the antique American movements and durable modern cases are.

We tip our hat!

3. Unimatic

Founded: 2015 / Top Collection: Chicago 064 / CEO (As of October 2024): Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato

This Italian outfit has the same presence as Rocky Balboa. Before we start screaming “Adrian!”, for a minute, we should probably get into the microbrand watches from Unimatic!

Source - Unimatic

Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato first met when receiving their education at Politecnico di Milano. Quickly becoming friends, their love of timepieces inspired them to found Unimatic in 2015.

FUN FACT: Unimatic conjoins the words “unique” and “-matic” which translates to “willing.” So these guys are both trailblazers and willing to test the boundaries. Sounds right up our street!

Now creating models in Milan, the pieces are rarely available due to their low supply and high demand. It’s understood that when a reference is sold out, there will never be a reproduction of that design, ever again.

Best get your wallets out, horophiles…

Unimatic Models

In terms of their design, Unimatic are unrelenting when it comes to giving their customers the best possible range. For example, you could opt for classic editions like the U1, or the U4 Classic…all of which are made out of steel with highly luminescent dials.

Feeling like you want to get a piece fit for the everyday? Go for their Tool line, which features a range of models that are all MIL-STD-810 (United States Military tested) and can easily deal with every situation, especially since they are fitted with extra strong sapphire crystals on the top. There are even GMT options should you require a piece to go with your travelling ensemble.

However, if you really want to push the boundaries further, you cannot go wrong with their Limited Edition lineup. These are the pieces that are stocked once and never made again!

From the green Cerakote coated steel-cased UT4-AA3, fitted with a quartz movement, the Seiko VH31, capped at 200 pieces and designed in collaboration with automotive icons, Automobili Amos, why not turn space age for a second with the U2-MMC that’s capped at 80 pieces, designed with Morgan Motor Company and features an interstellar, blue glossy dial?

Alternatively, for a genuine out of this world experience why not check out our guide to the best meteorite dials

4. Straton Watch Co.

Founded: 2015 / Top Collection: Straton Speciale Automatic Black/Gold / CEO (As of October 2024): Kyle Schut

Founded by Kyle Schut way back in 2015, his interests in classic cars, racing and timepieces spurred him to create some sensational microbrand watches under the name Straton Watch Co.

Source - Straton Watch Co

His slogan of style created through passion is a strong indicator of exactly what he wants you to feel when you strap one of his numbers onto your wrist. Alongside offering sensational models, he also sells driving gloves because… well what else would you wear to take your kids on the school run in that kitted out Porsche 911?

Featuring on TopGear Magazine, Petrolicious and Just One More Watch, there’s a clear indicator as to what you are buying when you purchase a Straton Watch Co. These Swiss microbrand watches are here to get your engines roaring like a Formula One car!

Not bad for a man who used to be a business development manager in Zurich.

Straton Watch Co Models

When choosing a Straton Watch Co, it’s important to define exactly what you are looking for. If you want a piece that offers a simple encapsulation of Schut’s racing philosophy, the Straton Classic Driver with orange, blue and light blue racing stripes is the best pick.

Offering water resistance up to 200 metres and sapphire crystals, they offer strength and style in spades.

Offering dual chronograph sub-counters against a super legible dial, this is a fantastic option for the man looking for an out-and-out racing inspired piece. However, if you aren't a fan of convention and want to jazz things up, we highly recommend the Straton Cuffbuster Sprint.

Vintage inspired, the case is inspired by the brand, Desotos and their shapes in 1972. The subsequent rectangular case is designed in a way it cannot be covered by long-sleeved overalls or a pilots jacket. “Cuffbuster” really is the best name! And why would you want to hide that textured, brown dial with its glorious faceted hour markers, or hide the work of that modified VK67 Meca-Quartz with running seconds movement?

However, we know some of you are in the game for rarity. Enter the steel case with DLC coating, Straton Speciale Automatic in Black and Gold. Capped at only 20 pieces, this piece comes with a Swiss Automatic Valjoux movement and is inspired by Schut’s very own 1977 Alfa Romeo Alfetta GT.

5. Nodus

Founded: 2017 / Top Collection: Sector Deep - Blue Orthodox / CEO (As of October 2024): Wesley Kwok and Cullen Chen

Founded in Los Angeles, these American’s definitely know how to have a good time when it comes to microbrand watches. Interestingly, Nodus Watches are more than just a re-run of vintage designs and Swiss inspiration. They are actually classified as a horological research and design company, wherein they excel in forwarding timepiece innovation.

Source - Nodus

Nodus have collaborated with professional instrument brand, Raven Watches and journalist, Matt Farah, the gentleman that reviews automotives under his 1 million subscriber Youtube platform, The Smoking Tire.

This indie microbrand has been consistently on the rise, resulting in them doubling their production numbers in just two years since their inception in 2017. As a result, they have become the go-to name for everyone interested in tool related timepieces.

But, how does one approach such a specific portfolio?

Nodus Models

Depending on what activity you participate in, or when you get your hands on a Nodus, you should carefully peruse what functions and styles you believe will get you maximum wrist worthy satisfaction.

For example, the gentleman who’s always on the run will look no further than the Contrail GMT - Terra. Within the models beats the Japanese Miyota 9075 GMT movement that is seeing plenty of notoriety since its launch.

This is tied in with its sleek dimensions with a case diameter of 40.5mm x 11.8mm in steel providing first rate durability and style on your wrist. In addition, it has 200 metres of water resistance, offering optimal strength in all conditions.

The GMT functionality is a tasteful addition to the piece, especially since, when used with the extra GMT hand and 24 hour scale on the bezel, giving users the ability to measure multiple time zones.

If you are more of a home-bird and just need a piece to last your daily tribulations, the Sector Sport - Frost is the perfect choice. Inspired by the simplicity of mid-20th century case designs, this steel, 38mm x 12.5mm model is fitted with a screw down crown and fixed bezel for 100 metres of water resistance, Super-Luminova filled baton and Arabic numerals atop a crisp, white dial.

Lastly, we know that diving is still as hot as the John Mayer album, Room For Squares, so Nodus created the ideal model for you. The Sector Deep - Blue Orthodox offers 500 metres of water resistance, alongside a hyper-contrast blue and black dial, alongside ultra-legible, chunky hour markers and hands underneath a sapphire crystal.

Not quite on par with the Rolex Deepsea Challenge (13,750 feet) or Omega Ploprof (1,200 metres) but for the price you cannot grumble.

Powered by the Seiko TMI NH35 movement with its 41 hour power reserve, remarkably, the case is just 42mm x 13.6mm, indicating the technology that goes into making this quite average sized model nearly as strong as the Hulk!

6. AnOrdain

Founded: 2015 / Top Collection: Model 3 / CEO (As of October 2024): Lewis Heath

Scotland, while known for its outstanding whisky and rolling hills, is famed for offering stunning microbrand watches thanks to AnOrdain.

Source - AnOrdain

Founded in 2015 by Lewis Heath, he left his role as an architect and a product designer to create a brand that acknowledged traditional craftsmanship, adding flair via the form of modern aesthetics.

Business is booming as they have moved to a new factory in Glasgow, this year! When making their timepieces, AnOrdain both design and manufacture under the same roof, producing a seamless process that allows for excellent designs only.

In fact, they only work with in-house designed skeletal syringe hands and ultra-complex fumé enamel faces in a number of colours like blue and green.

In case you think that these are whimsical pieces with no durability, AnOrdain conducts their own regulation and inspections to ensure that every model is specialised to each individual wearer, including providing optimal accuracy and bags of wrist preference.

AnOrdain Models

AnOrdain summarise their models into 3 distinctive categories, namely Model 1, Model 2 and Model 3.

Model 1 encapsulates a number of colours, including salmon, blue and exotic shades like Payne’s Grey Fumé and Plum Fumé. These fairly simple Arabic and baton numeral faces are the perfect addition to any formal wardrobe. However, you can opt for a complex GMT model, should you want to buy a watch for your debonair lifestyle.

They ensure to use a sapphire crystal with 6 layers of anti-reflective coating to ensure that you have optimal visibility in all conditions. Meanwhile, Model 2 is the brand's tool line. Coming in solid steel cases with block enamel dial colours like racing green and flax, the pieces come in either medium or large case sizes and boat thermally treated in-house hands and baton/Arabic numeral hour markers.

Model 3 is about as unorthodox as AnOrdain gets. Totalling just two models in either Aqua or Lichen colours, the cases are designed in such a way, with razor thin bezels and softly tapered lugs, to showcase the fabulous dial.

Given a textured aesthetic, they do away with ultra prominent hour markers, instead choosing exceptionally thin batons and a silver minute track.

7. Autodromo

Founded: 2011 / Top Collection: Group B / CEO (As of October 2024): Bradley Price

Founded in 2011, Autodromo was founded by Bradley Price. Taking his knowledge from his previous role as an industrial designer, and his love of all things vintage car related, he created the high-powered automotive-inspired watch brand.

Source - Autodromo

Like Mr. Beast, they have since exploded in popularity, especially among the racing community, resulting in colaborations with automotive icons like Vic Elford (associated with Porsche with 13 entries in the Formula One World Championship, becoming a regular on the Le Mans circuit) and Brian Redman (15 World Championship Grand Prix’s and reached the podium in the 1968 Spanish Grand Prix).

This extended to Bradley Price being approached by Ford NA Design Director, Chris Svensson to propose a design concept for the Ford GT official models, later making Autodromo the official timepiece partner of the new Ford GT.

His models are bold, and starkly tie in with the racing industry with their chronograph functionality and highly legible faces. Except, they are not reruns of the great Rolex Daytona, nor imitations of the legendary Steve McQueen infused TAG Heuer Monaco.

Let’s take a look.

Autodromo Models

As you can probably tell, Autodromo specialise in racing models, and to find anything that isn’t imbued in high-speed spirit is unlikely. At least, that’s what we thought before we glanced into the sapphire crystal…

For example, the Group B - Verde Smeraldo is a truly captivating piece that can be worn in the most formal of settings. Its shape is very similar to the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222, in terms of its slender lugs and tight, 39mm diameter. This may well be the Brad Pitt of microbrand watches.

Coming in bi-metallic titanium and stainless steel, they are inspired by rally cars of the 1980s, explaining the neon green face and black hour markers. Between the bezel seats a flat sapphire crystal with stunning bevelled edge.

However, one piece that simply must be worn by the racetrack is the Lime Rock Park Edition - Prototipo Chronograph Limited Edition. Capped at just 125 pieces, this pays tribute to Autodromo’s sponsorship of Lime Rock Historic Festival 42.

The tonneau, steel-cased beauty with Japan-made Seiko VK63 Chronograph movement, shows the silhouette of the famous Lime Rock race circuit in red at 6 o’clock.

8. Astor & Banks

Founded: 2012 / Top Collection: Fortitude / CEO (As of October 2024): Andrew Perez

We’re going back to America once again to explore the Chicago-based brand, Astor & Banks. Founded by Andrew Perez in 2012, they cover both quartz and mechanical pieces.

Source - Astor & Banks

As a horological enthusiast, he states that he aims to make timepieces that offer “durability, reliability, and add great design with the goal to make something that you will enjoy for a lifetime.”

With a guarantee like that, how can we possibly resist! From dive timepieces with ultra-legible faces to the everyday competency of the Fortitude collection, he offers the capable functionality of chronograph pieces.

Astor & Banks Models

The Sea Ranger M2 is the ultimate tool timepiece to be worn on land, air and sea. Available in a number of colours like Army Green, Tobacco, Black and Blue, across all the models are steel cases, cream coloured 12 hour scales on the periphery, with the main hands and baton hour markers in the centre.

The Fortitude Pro has a number of colours, but we particularly enjoy the proud Pro Viva Magenta in a ruby red shade. Similarly crafted out of steel, the 38.5mm case diameter and x 11.9mm thickness fits easily on the wrist, while the contrast with the bronze coloured hour markers and hands are perfect against the face.

The date aperture residing at 6 o’clock is a functional tool, and sits quietly without too much interference with the rest of the face. The Fortitude line uses a flat sapphire crystal to ensure maximum visibility, and repel any damage to the face.

As for the Sea Ranger line, this is designed out of 316L stainless steel across the board, including fitted with a large domed sapphire crystal. Yielding 300 metres of water resistance, the pieces are fitted with a 12 hour bezel, allowing users to measure multiple time zones. How’s that for revolutionising a dive watch?

9. Brew Watch Co

Founded: 2015 / Top Collection: Metric / CEO (As of October 2024): Jonathan Ferrer

Whether in the office, at home, or after a gourmet meal at that Michelin starred restaurant, there’s simply nothing better than a nice coffee. But this aint your average cup of Joe.

For those fans who simply cannot get enough, it’s best that you get your eyes on our next best microbrand, the fabulous Brew Watch Co.

Source - Brew Watch Co

Brew Watch Co ensures that everything is thoroughly tested to ensure optimal performance, right down to choosing the leather straps, they only opt for the finest, supple Italian leather. Founder, Jonathan Ferrer currently works as a professor, teaching students about design and manufacturing.

His inspiration behind the brand came from working in cafe’s, wherein he has now created his own brand…Brew Watch Co.

For the models, they only use the finest materials, including 316L steel that’s CNC machined, and ensure that the materials are extensively tested for optimal quality. The visual aesthetics have been carefully conjured up whereby they cleverly use markers on his Metric collection to highlight the specific timings of an espresso shot.

As The Ink Spots said in 1935;

“I love coffee, I love tea

I love the java jive and it loves me

Coffee and tea and the jiving and me

A cup, a cup, a cup, a cup, a cup!”

Brew Watch Co Models

Potential buyers have the chance to choose from a plethora of designs, including the tonneau bezel Metric to the square shaped Retrograph. Trust us, there’s a special feeling when you peel back the plastic protective film off the sapphire crystal and take a good look at this face.

The Metric line comes in a range of styles, including black PVD, titanium and PVD gold over 316L steel cases. Featuring two recessed sub-counters at 9 and 6 o’clock, alongside a cheeky coffee bean emblem at 3 o’clock, these pieces are inspired by 1970s case designs, come in comfortable 36mm case diameters and have 50 metres of water resistance.

For the Retrograph, we can choose from a number of face styles, including blue Cobalt, Technicolour with red, blue and yellow jolts of colour, and, perhaps our favourite, Espresso. With more caffeine boost than a Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso, this design allows for multiple measurements, including timing an espresso shot, and other durations which can be measured via the 60-minute timer.

Sure, 50 metres of water resistance isn’t great, but who drinks coffee underwater?

10. Bravur

Founded: 2011 / Top Collection: Grand Tour / CEO (As of October 2024): Äppelryd and Sahlin

Here’s a fresh nation for us to take a look at in terms of the best microbrand watches. The home of legendary and Olympic gold medalist, Armand Duplantis… Sweden of course!

Source - Bravur

Founded by Äppelryd and Sahlin, the pair originally met through their love of cycling. Boy, if only they knew about a delightful Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition”. Interestingly, their Bravur brand, once created in 2011, was designed to incorporate cycling elements into their models.

All of their pieces are hand-made in their studio in Båstad, wherein they source top notch materials and perform rigorous tests and inspections across the models. Furthermore, they ensure to help local suppliers, resulting in them supplying vegetable tanned leather straps from small tanneries across Sweden and Italy.

Releasing their first automatic timepiece in 2017 after previously only dabbling in quartz models, they are made to order, ensuring complete personalisation, regardless of whether you want one of their GMT or chronograph models.

Bravur Models

The Grand Tour collection is by far Bravur’s most desirable collection, especially since it encapsulates such a breadth of quality design and style. For example, those interested in a hint of colour will be pleased to note the Grand Tour La Corsa Rosa. Oh you can taste the rainbow can’t you?

Crafted out of steel at 38.2mm, these numbers are both polished and brushed and offer 100 metres of water resistance. With a limited edition run of 50 pieces, the models feature a tarmac coloured face with three high-contrast pink recessed sub-counters. Now that’s confidence!

However, you may want to get your Swedish vibes on point with the Scandinavian collection. Think the best of IKEA, meatballs and Stefan Edberg all rolled into a smorgasbord of automatic models offering bright white, midnight blue or black dials. This sits nicely alongside stunning yellow gold hands and hour markers with 50 metres of water resistance.

The majority of their pieces feature sapphire crystals with an anti-reflective coating to improve readability, including the Scandinavia Midnight Blue and BW003 Automatic. While the BW003, BW002 and BW001 collections alter between their style of hour marker and colours, the general consensus of a circular case with a date aperture at 6 o’clock make these perfect models for more special occasions.

The Geography Series is just as fancy, especially the limited edition Geography with green face. Capped at 25 pieces, they are crafted out of steel, finished with a gold PVD coating and offer 50 metres of water resistance. Fitted with a Swiss movement with GMT functionality, these pieces are top options for a man looking to but a watch for his worldly ways.

11. Deep Blue

Founded: 2007 / Top Collection: Pro Sea Diver I / CEO (As of October 2024): Stan Betesh

For our next best contender, we are taking a leaf out of Adele’s book and Rolling In The Deep…the Deep Blue that is. We are taking you to New York City, where this brand produces timepieces which perfectly align with their name.

Source - Deep Blue

Becoming one of the most significant dive model creators in the microbrand watches world, who knows? We may be looking at our next contender against the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. However, since Deep Blue were only founded in 2007, they’ve got a lot of ground to cover!

It took only one year in 2008 for them to turn heads with the release of their stunning Depthmaster Series. Capable of reaching 3000 metres of water resistance, the Depthmaster Series offer optimal durability, and represent Deep Blue’s intentions on being significant forces in the microbrand industry.

Working closely with National Geographic explorers, professional divers and military personnel, Deep Blue ensures that all of their watches offer at least 300 metres of water resistance.

Deep Blue Models

Deep Blue has a number of exceptional models that would be perfect additions to your diving ensemble.

From the Pro Sea Diver I 1000M 45mm, this line features a range of high-quality models, all of which are crafted out of steel and feature unique aluminium bezels. From bright green to two-tone bezels, users can choose from white, black and burgundy faces. You also probably guessed, 1000 metres of water resistance!

If you fancy entering your GI Joe phase in life, the Daynight Stealth Ops line is a top choice. Deep Blue uses carbon cases to produce exceptionally strong cases, alongside tritium tubes in the baton hour markers to produce a myriad of different luminova colours, including a melange of greens, reds, blues and yellows.

However, if you can do without the eccentricity and just want to flash your dive model when floating by the reef, the Master 2000 Day Date Swiss Auto Black Dial is your best bet. Offering 2000 metres of water resistance, the pieces are crafted out of 316L steel and come in a 45mm case, offering a good base for the Swiss ETA 2836-2 case to thrive.

All are fitted with sapphire crystals, not to mention anti-reflective coating to ensure you can swim and see the time with consummate ease.

12. Elka

Founded: 2021 / Top Collection: Elka X Series / CEO (As of October 2024): Hakim El Kadiri

The background behind Elka is not just limited to their foundation back in 2021.

It used to be a Dutch brand that ceased its business back in the 1970s. Founded in Amsterdam back in 1913 by Louis Eduard Kiek, the company branched out into Switzerland in 1949. However, it later dissolved in 2000.

But time moves on...

Source - Elka

So, now it’s Hakim El Kadiri’s turn to take the reins. Don’t bring up the name, though. It’s a sensitive subject! Apparently, he called his business Elka Watch Company as he was nicknamed Elka as a child and always had an urge to get into the timekeeping business.

Using his experience with Swatch, Rado and Hamilton, Elka is now a high-flying horological brand, with a number of collections from the dressy Elka D Series, the pilot infused Elka X Series and some limited edition models in collaboration with Ace Jewelers and Heroes Media.

Elka Models

The Elka X Series is inspired by a flight instrument created by Heuer for the previous Elka Watch brand. Taking the same case as the one used in the Elka D line, the X series is a great pilot’s model.

Crafted out of steel, the models feature beige, black and cognac, gradient coloured faces. Boasting unusual Arabic numerals that negate the classic 12 hour indicators and instead go from 00 to 55, these pieces are fitted with vintage leather straps, NATO strap or 7 link bracelets, making these ideal for the modern wearer.

Elka do not do things by half, even down to their sapphire crystals. For example, they only use Chevé-Box sapphire crystals, classified as the most complicated variation of crystals, as it sits slightly above the bezel and gives them more old school vibes than Run DMC.

Besides, it’s like that and that’s the way it is!

The D Series is inspired by the original pocket watches of the 1950s. Crafted out of steel, they have razor thin bezels and tapered lugs but only 30 metres of water resistance. We wouldn’t suggest sailing round the world with this on.

Furthermore, you can choose from a range of colours, including the baby pink Elka D06-0808 to the mean and moody D07-0810 that puts the Rolex Batman in its place. Limiting their functions to general timekeeping and a date aperture, refinement is the order of the day for the D Series.

Lastly, Elka’s collaboration with Ace Jewelers and Heroes Media has produced models in short, 25 piece bursts. From the Diversity Series that features a range of hour markers from Hebrew to Hindi and Chinese, you could go for a completely understated model, the Elka D09-0804 which had no hour markers, but just silver hands against a sunray finished, navy blue face with 30 metres of water resistance.

13. DuFrane

Founded: 2016 / Top Collection: Waterloo / CEO (As of October 2024): Steven Lee

When Steven Lee founded DuFrane back in 2016, he surely could not have expected such an impressive boom in popularity!

Source - Dufrane

Taking strong influence from his Texan heritage, Steven started off small with just a few sketches of designs that celebrated his beloved city, Austin. He kickstarted his brand under his mother’s maiden name in her honour.

Their motto of “history remembers those who are a little bit different” is very apt for the brand. For example, This Austin theme is spotted throughout the brand, as is the majority of the models, named after famous landmarks and historical figures in the city, such as the titanium Mabry, linking to the headquarters of the Texas Military Department in Austin.

With a solid innovation rate of producing at least one new model per year, DuFrane is an eclectic brand with a plethora of high-quality timepieces.

DuFrane Models

As you can probably appreciate, you can expect a bigger Texan theme than Grammy winner Beyoncé's recent track, TEXAS HOLD ‘EM.

However, high quality timekeeping is not jeopardised for gimmicky selling points. For example, the Waterloo. As the original name given to Austin, they are crafted out of steel and given a rose gold case PVD coating. Partnered with a hammered copper face and rose gold edging with Arabic numerals for that industrial feel, this is affordable luxury at its finest!

Another fine example is the Littlefield GMT. Named after Austin’s first office building built in 1912, it reflects the hectic lifestyle of those folks running from the printer to overseas meetings.

Therefore, this DLC coated, 39mm steel piece features the Swiss SW330-1 GMT movement, allowing users to measure multiple time zones with the extra GMT hand and 24 hour scale, against the navy blue dial face. The 100 metres of water resistance and sapphire crystal ensures you can competently battle against that gale when dashing like Usain Bolt for that last minute train.

Of course, DuFrane does not shy away from the chance to collaborate. Their Whitney Lauren Collaboration 2024, features custom, hand-painted aesthetic from local Austin artist, Whitney Lauren. Fitted with the Sellita SW200-1 movement, they are both strong and durable..

Completely unique for each model, and secured with a flat crystal with six layers of anti-reflective coating, move quickly to get your hands on one of 23 pieces from the Waterloo or Travis collections.

14. Formex

Founded: 1999 / Top Collection: Reef / CEO (As of October 2024): Raphael Granito

The next best microbrand on our horological hitlist comes by way of Formex.

This is no Swiss Family Robinson. Far from it. Family run, they seek to offer an alternative to the big names currently dominating the industry. Established in Bienne back in 1999, two brothers, Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel, sought to fuse their love of motorsports and horology into a cohesive brand.

Inspired by the French phrase forme extrème, defined as “extreme shape,” they take influence from the engineering behind high-performance cars and bikes. They are distinctly made with a unique (and patented!) case suspension system, shaped like a cushion and competently protecting the movement.

Source - Formex

As the first ever Swiss brand to introduce a direct-to-consumer distribution model, Formex broke ground by selling them directly to consumers without using traditional retailers or wholesalers.

Since 2016, the brand's CEO is Raphael Granito, an avid sportsman and originally a collaboration member with the brand. Have the models lost that high-speed allure?

Not for a second!

Formex Models

Depending on the sort of vibe you are looking for, this brand will likely have a model that can cover your every whim or desire.

Furthermore, some models like the Essence FortyThree Automatic Chronometer Blue can even treat you to a luxurious sapphire caseback for that ultra exhibition aesthetic. Now hold the front page.

Are you wanting that Patek Philippe Nautilus feel without the jaw-dropping price bracket? We recommend the Formex Reef. Mimicking the signature ear design of the Nautilus (but no octagonal bezel), the Formex Reef instead offers unparalleled water resistance at 300 metres, a tight 39.5mm to 42mm case and COSC certification.

The Reef collection has GMT variants, allowing users to have the same water resistance, but with the added functionality of measuring multiple time zones. However, if that all seems too much for your dainty wrist, the Formex Essence is your best acquisition.

Coming in either the Thirty nine or Forty Three editions, choose from a range of dial colours, including salmon, burgundy and an almost Omega like, Summer Blue shade, with a simple three hand design. Yep, the movements are COSC certified too for the Swiss purists!

Lastly, if you plan on going shooting with your buddies, or like the feel of a reliable ticker on your wrist when out and about, the Field Automatic is a timeless addition to your wardrobe. Within the pieces are the Sellita SW200-1 self-winding automatic movements with a 41 hour power reserve.

Coming in grade 2 titanium cases across all the models, you can choose from deep, burgundy faces to light, sage green shades for the highly legible, Arabic numeral faces with date apertures at 6 o’clock.

Indeed, underneath a sapphire crystal, this beauty is a definite keeper!

15. Farer

Founded: 2015 / Top Collection: Tonneau / CEO (As of October 2024): Paul Sweetenham, Stuart Finlayson, Jono Holt, Ben Lewin

Founded in November 2015 by Stuart Finlayson, Jono Holt, Ben Lewin and Paul Sweetenham, Farer only needs three more founders to match the great United States!

Source - Farer

Starting off with quartz timepieces that were named after famous explorers, they elevated in 2016 to producing automatic pieces and continued to innovate, eventually moving onto GMT and dive models in 2017, hand-wound pieces in 2018 and finally - the great holy grail complication in horology - chronograph timepieces.

With a yearly, meteoric rise, Farer designed all their pieces in London, and moved over to Switzerland to actually assemble the pieces. The best of British and Swiss timekeeping it seems!

Using a direct-to-consumer sales technique, you can only source their timepieces via their website. No middle man to charge extortionate fees at retail. Totalling 40 different models across over a dozen collections to date, let’s find a Farer piece that gets your timekeeping veins pumping.

Farer Models

Farer have collated a number of collections, not with any funky names or latin phrases, but with the bare bones of what the models actually are.

The Three Hand, is what it says it is. Just standard timekeeping! You know the one, like the furore caused with the TAG Heuer Carrera pink dial sported by Ryan Gosling at the Barbie premiere.

Totalling 5 different variants, these pieces all come in steel and offer a variety of dial styles. This incorporates cream with Arabic numerals, black with golden baton and Arabic numerals and hands, rich purple with red arrow-tipped seconds hands and white, Arabic and baton numerals.

This is all housed underneath a domed box sapphire crystal with an internal anti-reflective coating. Right down to the Swiss made G101 movements, these are complimented with the highest grade finish possible, the soignée finish.

If you fancy living the glam life, their Tonneau collection totals four different similarly cased pieces, all of which have sapphire crystals with bevelled edges and multi-layer anti-reflective coatings.

Ranging from the avant-garde New York model with a copper face infusing a hypnotising lined aesthetic, to the Paris which has a navy blue face with Roman numeral markers, we really are spoilt for choice.

Furthermore, these models are fitted with the Swiss made SW300-1 Special Elaboré Grade movement that’s been modified to remove the seconds hand, and fitted with a bespoke rotor that’s vapour coated to fit in with the rest of the piece.

Whether you are interested in buying the Aqua Compressor line with its 300 metres of water resistance or the complexity of the circular cased Moon Phase line with date aperture at 6 o’clock and moon-phase complication in the centre of the dial, Farer has everything you need to get your collection up and running.

16. Eza

Founded: 1921 / Top Collection: Sealander / CEO (As of October 2024): Adriaan Trampe

Dating back to 1921, Eza is one of the godfathers of the microbrand watches lineup. Starting when Hermann Becker founded the company back in Pforzheim Germany, the company soon went out of business in the ‘70s after that terrible Quartz Crisis.

Source - Eza

It soon found its feet again in 2016 under Adriaan Trampe and Diederik, they resurrected the brand with a plethora of brand new, vintage inspired dive timepieces. Nowadays, Eza remains loyal to the dive industry, including diver models with sapphire crystals and 300 metres of water resistance.

However, there are also pilot models such as the AirFighter. But one thing remains consistent across all of the models. Assembled in Pforzheim, Germany, they have a number of top executions, including the Sealander, AirFighter and Vintage 1972 lines.

Eza Models

The Sealander line is Eza’s ultra-strong dive line. Available in case materials like steel, black DLC steel and bronze, you can choose from deep blue dial styles to rich green hues and pitch blacks. All of the models have baton hour markers and sword shaped hands with tropical lume centres.

Inside the models pulsates the popular Swiss Sellita SW-200 Automatic movement with a reliable 28,800VpH and 40 hour power reserve. Not quite weekend proof but all is not lost.

If you are more interested in being airborne, the Airfighter is a top line. Crafted with a steel case, you can choose from tan brown leather straps to mesh bracelets, and either blue or black dials with legible baton numerals and sword shaped hands.

Within the pieces lies again the steady Sellita SW-200 automatic movement, protected by the custom made sapphire crystal across the tops. If you fancy a trip down memory lane, the Vintage 1972 line celebrates the diving legacy of the brand.

For example, the 1972 Diver Anniversary Edition comes in a Kermit green shade with a strong sapphire glass crystal. Limited to 100 pieces watches it is fitted with a black marbled leather strap that finishes a solid number.

Conclusion

We hope you have enjoyed our rundown of the best microbrand watches for serious aficionados. Whether your eyes are captured by vintage charms or widened by hyper-modernised aesthetics, Chrono Hunter has done the leg-work to get you in the know.

If you are looking for the ultimate dive model, we recommend you absorb the fabulous Eza 1972 Diver lineup, or the Deep Blue Pro Sea Diver collection for that astonishing 1000 metres of water resistance.

However, we respect if you need some microbrand watches that can be flashed at weddings, boardroom meetings, or when clinking glasses with friends. Therefore, we suggest the Unimatic Tool lineup with its minimalist aesthetics, or the Astor & Banks Fortitude line if you want an added soupcon of colour.

Across the majority, you can be assured of optimal durability, provided by sapphire crystals, powerful movements from Switzerland, or simple designs with clean bezels and robust cases.

Microbrand watches are here to stay, Timelords. While we don’t think they have quite captured the imaginations of the horological world just yet, in comparison with the big Swiss brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe, they are strong rises and offer affordable alternatives to the big-hitters. Production control and limited edition runs make them more sought after than the Cubitus, the first line from the Swiss giant in a quarter of a century.

So, are you simply fascinated with the idea of owning some independent wristwear? Enamoured with the prospect of being the first gent in the office to flex a Studio Underd0g, Formex or AnOrdain? Your purchasing decision need not be trivial in the search of timekeeping happiness.

As Tony Montana declared in Scarface from 1983, the world is yours…

Feeling like you need to buy one of these best microbrand watches? Have we inspired you with a few of our own choices?

Lucky for you, Chrono Hunter gives you the freedom to select from an impressive array of high quality offers from our handpicked range of expert luxury retailers. All of this is conducted within a one of a kind online platform and app that’s second to none, giving you access to the fairest prices, quick turnaround and 100% authenticity.

If you are still undecided, we recommend you contact us here to find out how you can save money on your next purchase or sale. Based on true market value, our market leading portal means you can receive multiple offers from our exclusive network of the most trusted luxury retailers.

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