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Chrono Hunter Discovers The All-New Longines HydroConquest GMT Collection

In Brief

Longines has a steeped history in GMT complications on watches with the first one debuting in 1925.
The epitome of a dive watch, this popular timekeeping choice is rich in style, practicality and form for many watch nerds.
Incorporating several new refined elements such as a redesigned case and bracelet, the Longines HydroConquest GMT is now available in four different yet striking colourways.
Featuring sunray dials from black, brown and blue to olive green with gold accents, these highly desirable watches are a sparkling addition to any collection or wardrobe.
Dive-ready for the keenest Jacques Cousteau thrill seekers among you, look out for the new in-house movement with anti-magnetic properties, excellent build quality and athleticism to rival Yohan Blake.
With a case thickness of just 12.9mm, the HydroConquest GMT is slimmer than each Zulu time model including the 2023 Zulu Time version.

Luxury watch enthusiasts around the world have a reason to rejoice as Longines introduces the latest addition to its iconic HydroConquest collection – the new HydroConquest GMT.

This first ever GMT timepiece unveiled in their dive empire showcases a harmonious blend of timeless design, innovative features, and exceptional precision, making it a compelling choice for modern explorers and enthusiasts looking to buy a Longines.

In this article, we delve into the captivating world of the new Longines HydroConquest GMT, exploring its design, features, and the spirit of exploration it embodies. So, will this new novelty make a splash or will it be a horological fish out of water?

The Importance Of The HydroConquest Collection

Introduced in 2007, The HydroConquest range has become one of the most popular dive watches of the last two decades. This timekeeping gravy train shows no signs of stopping displaying a number of key features for those looking to buy a watch.

Source: Reddit

1. Heritage and Legacy

The HydroConquest is a part of the Longines legacy, a brand with a storied history dating back to 1832. This heritage lends a sense of authenticity and time-honoured craftsmanship, making it more than just an entry-level luxury timepiece.

Be it impressing your colleagues in the office, drinks with a new date or dressing up for smarter affairs, this watch fits the horological bill…time and time again. This contemporary dive watch with added GMT complication goes against the mould like the Skin Diver that is overflowing with heritage.

2. Diverse Design Aesthetics

The HydroConquest boasts a versatile design that seamlessly transitions from formal occasions to active pursuits. Its clean lines, bold numerals, and unidirectional rotating bezel lend a sporty yet sophisticated aesthetic that appeals to a wide range of tastes and styles.

3. Expert Craftsmanship

Longines is known for its exceptional craftsmanship, and the HydroConquest is no exception. From the precisely engineered movements to the meticulous finishing of the case and dial, every detail is carefully considered and executed to perfection.

4. Robust Construction

The HydroConquest is built to endure the rigours of adventurous activities. With features like a screw-down crown and case back, water resistance up to 300 metres (1,000 feet). Sure it’s not a Ploprof, but it has scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, making it a reliable tool and a stylish accessory fit for all manner of casual and smart outfits.

5. Swiss Precision

As a luxury Swiss watchmaker, Longines upholds the reputation of Swiss precision and horological expertise. The HydroConquest benefits from this heritage, incorporating high-quality Swiss movements that ensure accurate timekeeping and reliability.

6. Dive Watch Heritage

The HydroConquest is part of the dive watch lineage, a genre revered for its robustness and all-round functionality. It pays homage to the classic dive watch design while infusing modern elements, making it an excellent choice for water sports enthusiasts and divers.

Pre 2023 blue dial model, Source: Reddit

7. Wide Range of Variations

Longines offers the HydroConquest in a mind boggling variety of sizes, materials, and colour options, allowing individuals to find the perfect match according to their personal style. Ranging from stainless steel to ceramic, or even a two-tone finish, there's most definitely a HydroConquest for you.

8. Affordability and Value

While the HydroConquest exudes luxury and quality, it remains relatively affordable compared to some other luxury watch brands including Rolex and Patek Philippe. This accessibility makes it an attractive option for those seeking to buy a watch without breaking the bank.

9. Elegance Meets Functionality

Beyond its rugged capabilities, the HydroConquest maintains an air of elegance. It seamlessly balances style with functionality, making it suitable for both formal occasions and everyday wear. In essence, the Longines HydroConquest's uniqueness lies in its ability to blend heritage, craftsmanship, versatility, and practicality into a timepiece that appeals to a broad audience.

It captures the essence of a Swiss luxury watch while offering an excellent balance between form and function. It doesn't matter if you’re a seasoned watch collector or a newbie to the world of luxury watches. The HydroConquest's allure is undeniable.

Personality Of The New Longines HydroConquest GMT Collection

Prepare to embark on a horological journey like no other with the latest offering from the esteemed house of Longines – the all-new HydroConquest GMT Collection.

New 2023 olive green dial in stainless steel. Source: Brand site

Hotter than summer, this captivating collection marries its rich heritage with cutting-edge technology, resulting in a series of timepieces that are strikingly stylish and exceptionally functional. Blending refinement and innovation to match Mark Zuckerberg, it’s time to broaden your timekeeping horizons.

The new HydroConquest GMT Collection is a celebration of exploration and timekeeping mastery. These worldly watches are equipped with a GMT complication, allowing wearers to effortlessly keep track of two time zones simultaneously.

Whether traversing continents like Michael Palin or navigating to the top of Mount Everest like Hilary Tenzing, complete with Rolex Oyster Perpetual, prepare yourself to cope with everything your lifestyle throws at you with the HydroConquest GMT. No doubt this will ensure you remain in perfect sync with the world around you.

Inspired by the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, the new Longines HydroConquest GMT Collection of watches measures 41mm x 12.9mm. In fact the stainless steel case thickness has only gone up 1 mm when compared to the standard model. Oh yes, the polished and satin finished surfaces can be seen throughout this impressive timepiece but there are also tweaks to highlight.

Brown sunray dial on NATO strap. Source: Brand site

Most notably, this can be seen thanks to the unidirectional rotating bezel which comes with wider notches on this model while the crown guards have been slimmed down, appearing more rounded. But like the Omega Seamaster Bond Special Edition, this all purpose dive watch has a licence to thrill. And boy does it not disappoint.

Another nice factor we like that sets this HydroConquest GMT apart from other watches in the standard collection is that they have done away with those big Arabic numerals in favour of circular, rectangular and triangular markers, located at 6, 9 and 12.

All key dive watch aspects are reflected in this crafty collection of luxury watches such as the 15 minute countdown element, emphasised with minute markers and a triangular hour marker, situated at 12 o’clock.

Given a generous coating of luminescence, the melange of brushed and matte finishes employs a tool watch type look with contrasting polished techniques found on the bezel, crown and bracelet emanating a nice contrast.

Crafted from stainless steel, the H links located on the steel bracelet have been given a much deserved redesign with a fitted micro-adjustment clasp…a first for the brand. Wanderlusters and seasoned travellers can benefit from the 24- hour GMT function which can be viewed on the inner flange of the timepiece.

New 2023 model with a black dial on stainless steel, Source: Brand site

This gives it a great contrast especially when you are trying to distinguish between night and day. Meanwhile, the two tone bezel offers a two-tone accent which reflects the dial colour, available in four tones green, black, brown, and blue. More on that to follow so stick around!

The arrow shaped 24 hour scale hand is also tipped with a luminescence which is identical to both the hands and indices. On top of this, the hour hand is bold as brass due to an oversized diamond area that again has been daubed with more coats of luminescence than a glow stick from a rave in the 90s.

It’s not time to party yet like it's 2023, but it is done in order to offer protection from any unnecessary glints. The lume theme continues directly on the central seconds and minutes hand. There is a bevelled date window based at 3 o’clock which some hardcore dive fiends may not like but does not detract from the overall layout of this terrific flyer GMT timepiece. Are you scratching your horological heads? Don’t know how to decipher a true traveller’s watch?

Hang on a tick…let us explain.

The Difference Between A “Caller” GMT And A “Flyer” GMT

Essentially, there is a small variance between a caller GMT watch and a flyer GMT watch. And this all relates to how the second time zone is shown.

Regarding caller GMT watches, the second time zone that is seen via a 24-hour hand has the ability to be moved by itself from other hands. In this way, it allows you to maintain and keep track of what time it is in a plethora of time zones without the need to alter the hours or minutes hands.

It all depends on the wearer's needs as there are so called “true” GMT watches but a caller is ideal for those office execs. When it comes to a flyer GMT, the official second time zone is shown with a 12 hour hand that’s directly connected to the principal hands that keep time. The second time zone will be displayed in a 12 hour format that precisely matches the primary hands on the timepiece.

Any Other Business?

There is a redesigned screw-down solid engraved steel caseback which showcases an etched globe and the legendary Longines logo complete with winged hourglass.

Source: Brand site

The diver indices give this all-singing, all dancing HydroConquest GMT a dash of modernity and vigour that the 2000s watches don’t possess. Providing more of a nautical allure than Ursula Andress, it is sleek and has a wealth of warm sunray dials to prove it. There is a sunburst blue dial, dark olive green, brown and black which appear different, especially the warmer green dial

Plus the gilt polished hands and hour markers around the timepiece give extra clarity and significant readability which we many are looking for when deciding to buy a watch

The Essentials

- Reference: L3.790.4.06.2 - green dial on a NATO strap / L3.790.4.06.6 - green dial on a stainless steel bracelet / L3.790.4.66.2 - brown dial on a NATO strap / L3.790.4.66.6 - brown dial on a steel bracelet / L3.790.4.56.6 - black dial on a steel bracelet / L3.790.4.56.9 - black dial on a rubber strap / L3.790.4.96.6 - blue dial on a steel bracelet / L3.790.4.96.9 - blue dial on a rubber strap

- Case Thickness: 12.9mm

- Water Resistance: 300 metres

- Limited Edition: No

- Type of link: H-shaped

- Clasp Type: Micoradjusting

- Movement: Automatic

- Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, GMT, Date

Don’t Miss A Beat With The Calibre L844.5

What do we find under the horological bonnet this time? For starters, the new HydroConquest GMT is kitted out with the L844.5 calibre. Pulsating away at a steady 25,200Vph, this automatic movement boasts a weekend-proof 72 hours of power reserve.

This ETA-based movement has been produced solely for the brand, delivering another degree of exclusivity. In addition, if you want to change the local hour hand quicker than Speedy Gonzales, the L844.5 movement, this baby can do it effortlessly.

They don’t call it a flyer GMT for nothing. Other not to be missed horological highlights inside the calibre L844.5 include a silicon balance spring and all sorts of juicy non magnetic materials.

What do we mean? If we were to say the components inside these particular watches boast up to 10 times more resistance in terms of magnetic fields than IS0 764 guidelines, you’d call us cuckoo. You’d be wrong. A decent timepiece enjoys 60 Gauss that is deemed “anti-magnetic” whereas the discontinued Rolex Milgauss proclaims itself to withstand up to 1,000 Gauss!

As silicon is impenetrable to any magnetic attraction or fields it has any corrosive resistance properties. Tougher than steel and most likely Superman, it decreases inertia without any necessity of lubrication. We may have had luxury watches with materials like chalcedony as per the Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier and Tantalum in the case of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar.

Mind you, only time will tell who will be the first to produce the first Kryptonite made timepiece.

How Much Does The New Longines HydroConquest GMT Collection Cost?

As of August 2023, you can buy a Longines HydroConquest GMT on the NATO strap for £2,450 with stainless steel and rubber strap watches priced at £2,550

Is Longines A Good Brand Of Watch?

Yes, Longines is widely regarded as a reputable and respected luxury brand in the world of watches. It has a rich heritage dating back to 1832 and is known for its combination of elegant design, quality craftsmanship, and accessible luxury. The brand's longevity reflects its commitment to tradition, quality, and horological excellence while providing affordable luxury to consumers.

Exuding top quality Swiss timepieces, they are known for offering luxury watches that are relatively more affordable compared to some other high-end brands, namely Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. This makes it accessible to a broader range of watch enthusiasts who seek high-quality timepieces without an exorbitant price tag.

Do Longines Go Up In Value?

As a rule, most watches, including those from Longines, do not consistently appreciate significantly in value over time in the same way that some other investments might. However, there are certain factors that can influence whether a specific Longines timepiece retains or potentially increases its value:

Limited Editions and Rarity: Limited edition Longines watches or models with unique features and designs are more likely to hold their value or even appreciate over time. Rarity and exclusivity can drive demand among collectors, making them more sought after.

Provenance: Watches with historical significance, such as models associated with important events, milestones, or famous individuals, can become valuable over time due to their historical and cultural importance.

Condition: Well-preserved and maintained watches tend to hold their value better. Regular servicing, proper care, and keeping the timepiece in good condition can positively impact its value.

Collectibility: Certain Longines collections or models may become collectable over time, especially if they develop a dedicated following among collectors. This can lead to increased demand and potentially higher resale value.

Market Trends: Like any luxury goods, values can be influenced by broader market trends and shifts in consumer preferences. Watches that are in vogue or align with popular styles and trends might have better resale potential.

Brand Reputation: Longines is a reputable and established brand, which can positively impact the resale value of its watches. A strong brand reputation can often instil confidence in buyers and collectors.

Vintage Appeal: Vintage Longines watches, particularly those with distinctive designs from certain eras, have gained popularity among collectors and can appreciate in value due to their historical significance and unique aesthetic.

If you are looking to buy a Longines or sell a Longines the smart way or want to ascertain the true value of your watch, speak to Chrono Hunter here. With a trusted network of the finest luxury retailers, multiple offers, quick turnaround and outstanding Trustpilot reviews, we are your go-to source.

Consulting with experts like us can provide valuable insights into the potential value trajectory of specific Longines watches

What Celebrity Wears Longines?

Known as ambassadors of elegance, there has been a myriad of high profile celebrities who have worn Longines watches.

Jennifer Lawrence was unveiled as a brand ambassador. Source: Hollywood Reporter

From Jennifer Lawrence and Regé-Jean Page to tennis legends Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf, the Swiss brand has been synonymous with many famous wrists and sporting events like Roland Garros.

The Swiss outfit even has its very own timepiece with an ode to this prestigious event - The Longines Conquest Roland-Garros Quartz Chronograph reference L3.379.4.79.66. Renowned actress Kate Winslet has been a Longines Ambassador of Elegance since 2010.

Her collaboration with the brand has been marked by her support for its philanthropic initiatives, as well as her appearances at various events wearing their watches. Actor Simon Baker, best known for his role in the television series "The Mentalist," has also been associated with the brand and demonstrates the synergy between Longines' classic style and Baker's sophisticated demeanour.

How Long Will A Longines Automatic Watch Last?

A well-maintained Longines automatic timepiece has the potential to last for decades but should be serviced at least every three to five years. If cared for properly, automatic watches can be kept for generations as they can literally be kept running like clockwork. Automatic watches, also known as self-winding watches, are mechanical timepieces that rely on the movement of the wearer's wrist to wind the mainspring and power it accordingly.

Proper usage can significantly impact the lifespan of an automatic piece. Regular wear helps keep the movement lubricated and running smoothly. However, excessive or extreme physical activities (such as extreme sports) can subject any timepiece to additional stress, potentially affecting its longevity.

Water-resistant watches should be used according to their specified water resistance ratings. Avoid exposing your timepiece to water beyond its recommended depth rating, as water damage can significantly impact the movement and overall condition. When not wearing it, store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and magnetic fields. This helps prevent unnecessary wear and reduces the risk of damage.

In short, adhering to Longines' recommended servicing schedule, regular wearing, and storing it appropriately are essential practices to ensure the watch's longevity. By investing in maintenance and treating it with great care, you can enjoy your Longines automatic timepiece for many years to come.

What Is The Best Longines Watch To Hold Value?

We have already mentioned that the HydroConquest collection is revered in the dive watch sphere. However, you might be asking what is the best Longines watch that holds its value? Are Longines watches a good investment or is Longines a good watch?

Heritage Classic Limited Edition, Source: Acquire Mag

Please note that value retention does vary subject to the model, rarity, market condition and provenance with vintage ones some of the best investments. Behold a collection of the most popular Longines watches which are definitely worth a glimpse if you're searching for the best Longines watch to hold value;

Conquest V.H.P.
Heritage Classic Limited Edition
Longines L2.673.4.78.3 – Master Collection 40 Chronograph Calendar
Longines L4.795.4.78.2 – Flagship Heritage 38.5 Automatic
Longines L2.816.4.53.2 – Avigation BigEye (41mm chronograph)

What’s Our View?

Michael Phelps eat your heart out.

Let’s cut to the chase time peeps. Like Phelps, this modern diver oozes speed, class, elegance and plenty of grace. Oh and they both look great in and out of the water.

This may be the future of dive watches for this Swiss outfit with its super slim case and luxury sports watch feel. Solid on the wrist and not overtly bulky, it's a first class experience for the wearer. Versatile and slight it is like a timekeeping social chameleon.

Pair it with sharp suits in the office, polo tops for drinks at the beachside or simply lounging by the pool. It’s your choice! Given the sheer amount of choice already when you want to buy a Longines, this new timepiece is a genuine break from the horological norm. Why? The first ever dual time-zone that sits under the HydroConquest umbrella is one thing.

But it has sparked a renaissance in the collection for Gen-Z collectors and old time enthusiasts alike, showboating its dive-ready functionality, everyday use, precision and that all important complication.

Conclusion

The new Longines HydroConquest GMT is not just a watch; it's a traveller’s companion designed to thrive in the realms of both style and utility. For the horophile in search of a timepiece that resonates with the thrill of exploration, the HydroConquest GMT is an exquisite find.

With its GMT functionality, captivating design, and robust construction, this timepiece invites you to embark on a journey where time is your ally, and style knows no bounds. In the realm of horology, the HydroConquest GMT stands tall as a testament to Longines' dedication to top notch precision, elegance, and the enduring spirit of being a travelling flaneur...

It is more than a diver. It is a go anywhere, do anything, watch. It is aimed squarely at those who want a companion timepiece that can be worn effortlessly in virtually any setting. Owing to its aesthetics and functions, it achieves this on all fronts.

It’s a perfect addition to their existing collection rather than concentrating their efforts on heritage watches, albeit mightily impressive ones. Fresh for 2023, this aint flash in the pan. It is an adventure seekers dream and a testament to the brands' dedication to precision, elegance, and the spirit of exploration. The question is devoted timelords, could this be your one and done collection?

Chances are, it might well be the case.

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