Question Time: Should You Buy The New Svelte Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm
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Question Time: Should You Buy The New Svelte Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm

Question Time: Should You Buy The New Svelte Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm


The Longines Spirit Collection is an indomitable tour de force in the watchmaking universe. Even though it is extremely new to the scene, established in 2020, the Spirit collection has continued to expand thanks to classic stepped case design and the combination of Arabic and diamond shaped indices. And boy we do love its mystique.

Of course, there’s always an air of je ne sais quoi with the brand. The Spirit collection blends modernity with a nod to its past. Sort of like a modern William Wordsworth! Without exposing too much yet, please join us as we examine whether you should buy a Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm. Is it worth your patience? Let’s get our horological hard hats on!


History of The Longines Spirit Zulu Collection


The Spirit collection blessed us with their presence towards the end of 2020. For that, we are eternally grateful!

Spirit collection - Source - Longines

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Behind the eclectic collection, there are a few honourable mentions which should be mentioned as strong influences. With its aviation inspired heritage, Elinor Smith, Paul-Emile Victor and US writer cum aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart pushed the boundaries of flight, all with tools provided by the brand. 

If you’ve heard of these people, Mazel Tov…you have done your homework! If not, here is a brief summary. Elinor Smith set an altitude record of over 32,000 feet in 1931 while using the brand's equipment such as onboard navigation tools. 

Paul-Emile Victor crossed the Greenland ice cap with three of the brand’s stop watches while Amelia Earhart was the first woman to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean in 1932. She utilised the brand's equipment as it was the only navigation equipment available at that point. As just a small handful of her achievements, she:


  • Broke the women’s world altitude record of 14,000 feet in 1922
  • Flew the length of the Atlantic twice in 1932
  • Was the first woman to receive the Distinguished Flying Cross
  • Won the women's speed transcontinental record
  • Been an all round inspiration to women in terms of female aviators and her works on women’s rights movements. 


The Spirit collection, therefore, plays on the themes and inspiration behind both exploration and travel. Named after the pioneering spirit of the aforementioned explorers, the Longines equipment they would’ve used previously have been fully integrated into this distinguished collection. 

The subsequent watches have followed this by making these novelties bulbous for easy access for pilots during flight. The case and dial are therefore intentionally large with contrasting hour markers to ensure first rate visibility. On the other hand, the Zulu collection was released two years later in 2022. 

The Zulu collection follows the precision of the Spirit line. The name relates to the first dual-time wristwatch that was manufactured in 1925 as it was adorned with a Zulu flag on the dial. Zulu, in layman's terms, essentially relates to the letter “Z” which is used to determine universal horology for those in the Armed Forces or aviators. 


Brief Introduction Of The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 42mm


Released in 2022, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time was revered immediately for its suave design and representation of older watches such as their onboard chronometers and wristwatches.


Spirit Zulu 42mm - Source - Longines

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Recently unveiled in 2022 at 42mm, the Spirit Zulu Time prided itself on a stainless steel case which is brushed to reveal a fascinating shine. Chamfered to an exceptionally high standard on the edges, the watch is sleek and allows the serrated bezel to stand out clearly. 

Dolled up with the classic 5 star emblem on the British racing green dial face, the gold Arabic numerals are extremely legible. The Spirit Zulu Time 42mm is the bigger, bulkier brother of The Spirit Zulu Time 39mm but still packs a horological punch for enthusiasts and would-be collectors. 

Its size is common for the collection due to its focus on legibility and presence which was required by pilots back in the day. Of course, the world moves on. Evolution takes its course and as such, a new contemporary size for these watches has now been produced. 

You can buy a Longines GMT Zulu Time 42mm for the following prices (at the time of writing);

  • Steel Editions with leather strap - £2,750
  • Steel Editions with metal bracelet - £2,850
  • Steel and 18K Yellow Gold leather strap - £3,850
  • Steel and 18K Yellow Gold metal bracelet - £3,950


So, we’ve heard the history, we know the inspirations… let’s get into the horological meat and bones of the new Spirit Zulu Time 39mm.


Construction of The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm


The brand have been like bloodhounds with noses firmly to the ground in an attempt to sniff out the next best thing to bolster the new, yet incredible reputation of the enigmatic GMT Spirit Zulu Time.


Blue Edition 39mm - Source - Longines

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The model was introduced to rapturous applause with only a few comments saying things like ‘what about a smaller watch, eh?’. Good job they are so darn attentive

The latest collection of the new watches follows the same design codes as the bulkier 42mm…minus the girth of course…The case follows the same brushed finish and chamfered edges from the lugs right to the flanks of the model. 

Locked in with a screw down crown, these new watches are capable of reaching 100 metres of water resistance like its predecessor. This should be enough for a little light water-skiing on your day off or for showboating around the pool while on vacation. 

Feel like you need the aviation aesthetic? The bezel still offers the classic ceramic insert which features a 24 hour GMT bezel. Like a lot of you gentlemen this summer, the new watches have shed a little excess weight, dropping 3 mm in diameter and 0.4mm in thickness. This is in comparison to the watches measuring 42mm. 

We are very lucky with this release as we have the option of not one, not two but four beautiful new GMT Zulu Time watches. We think at this moment it’s put itself in the horological mix for one of the best new watches of 2023. There are three new watches in stainless steel and one new model combining stainless steel and 18K yellow gold


One Stainless Steel and 18K Yellow Gold Edition


This new model, crafted out of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold represents the peak of the brand's luxurious watches. The bezel and crown are composed of 200-micron 18K yellow gold. The yellow gold bezel plays exceptionally well with the chocolate brown bezel insert. 


18K Gold 39mm Spirit - Source - Longines

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The dial of this particular new model is given a sublime sandblasted anthracite complexion, allowing the similarly yellow gold Arabic numerals and accompanying diamond indices to stand out a mile. The date aperture at 6 o’clock rests just beneath the five star emblem and “Zulu Time Chronometer” text. 

We know the emblem may remind some of a West End theatre review you would find in the newspaper. Nevertheless, love it or hate it, enthusiasts will no doubt go potty for the sandblasted look. Pair this with your best blue jeans and tee to look as rugged as the serrated bezel. A formal occasion on the horizon? It will also work well with a black suit. Just make sure to let that gold shine!

The numerals on the bezel are gilt applied, adding incredible depth to the already rich chocolatey brown ceramic insert. The GMT hand is given a slick black frame, blending in perfectly with the black dial face, leaving only the gold arrowhead present. 

Given the option of a metal strap, a brown leather strap or a brown NATO strap, the model can be alternated between being formalised with a metal strap or dressed down with a functional leather or NATO strap. 


Three Stainless Steel Editions


These brand spanking new watches are the spitting image of the 42mm editions. 


Steel Spirit 39mm - Source - Longines

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The new watches within this particular lineup each represent different “vibes” so to speak. For example, one edition features a stunning dark green bezel with an accompanying black dial and golden gilt numerals in the bezel. 

This edition is probably best for those looking to buy a watch with classic aviation heritage or pilot’s watches inspiration. Its subtle colour scheme with subtle gold flashes on the indices, hands and Arabic numerals on the dial relate to luxury in a true vintage style. 

The model features a black bezel, black dial and blue elements on the GMT arrow head relating to the more understated gentleman. Its colour scheme is dark and mysterious and corresponds to the modern minimalism that is becoming increasingly popular with Gen-Z buyers

The last edition includes a blue bezel, blue dial and an orange tipped GMT hand. Its colour scheme could be related to the Bell & Ross BR 03 Professional Collection GMT Blue in its blue dial and steel complexion. Meanwhile, the blue and grey design instantly garners a luxury sports watch feel to it. 

This is especially the case regarding the subtle blasts of orange colour on the GMT arrowhead and text. All three watches are available with a supple brown leather strap or sturdy stainless steel strap. Of course, it depends what look you want to pull off. Nevertheless, Chrono Hunter can get your collection started if you want to buy a Longines. After all, where else can you benefit from multiple offers on a single model? 

Whether you're looking for the new Spirit Zulu Time, Spirit Flyback Chronograph or The Avigation Bigeye, save money the smart way with us. Save money the smart way and lots of worrying thanks to our established network of luxury retailers who will give you the best possible price when you buy a watch or sell a watch.

Accentuate your wrist with the green bezel edition complete with supple brown strap that will go with a navy suit or a green cashmere jumper for those typical British days. 

We also wouldn't blame you if you adorned a steel strap for the blue edition that might look fetching with a teal polo shirt and black chinos. However, we understand that some of you elegant wearers pride themselves on looking dapper during the sporting season. Therefore, you can pull this off while in the executive box during the big game.


Technical Features of The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm


While the colour schemes and materials may differ between these watches, there is at least one consistency with all of these models. The phenomenal movement that runs like a dream!


Spirit Caseback - Source - Longines

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Powered by the COSC certified L844.4 movement, the movement boasts 21 jewels, runs at an unorthodox 25,500VpH and offers an excellent power reserve of 72 hours. 

Secured by a silicon balance spring to ensure no magnetism can damage the movement, the calibre is the same as the 42mm GMT flyback movement. By altering the crown, you won't impact the general functions when you want to change the GMT setting.

Unfortunately, we don't have the privilege of seeing the stunning calibre in motion. However, the solid caseback features an engraving of the brands logo and has the text “Zulu Time” alongside the Swiss brands name.


What’s Our View On The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm?


Well, what do you think, you dedicated followers of horology? For the travelling man, it’s an absolutely exceptional piece. Dare we might say it’s one of the hottest new releases we have come across this year. You heard it straight up, it's a real peach of a model.

The GMT function entitles the user to determine the differing hours in two zones and interchange between them seamlessly. From our horological perspective, they have absolutely hit the nail on the head with this new Spirit Zulu Time 39mm. 


Zulu Spirit - Source - Longines 

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They’ve realised that the modern consumer is erring more on the side of smaller than larger watches. This is predominantly due to enthusiasts wanting a multi-functional model to be used for all manner of occasions. Whether roaming round the office to being on vacation and even shaking hands with your future father-in-law, the model must be versatile, refined and sexy. Mind you, a big hunk of metal just doesn’t do the job for some. 

This isn’t an isolated case either. The new Tudor Pelagos 39mm has had the horological fat trimmed off it from its 40mm plus brethren, not to mention the new Panerai Quaranta Goldtech. This strongly opposes the classic yet oversized 45mm plus Panerai models as now these watches measure 40mm.

The 18K yellow gold and steel edition is fabulous and shows the brand's synergetic connection between luxury and aviation. Nonetheless, these stainless steel watches shouldn't be discounted however. 

Each one has a versatility which allows them to be worn in a variety of situations, from being sky high in Skiathos or down on the ground at your local hot spot. For us, our preference remains with the green bezel edition as it oozes vintage classicism with a touch of modernity resonating from the golden numerals, hands and black dial. 

All these models can be worn in your smartest threads such as a crisp suit shirt for those day’s battling it out in the conference room. Don’t feel it suits the corporate world? Pause for a second and wear these luxury models with a cashmere jumper for those colder evenings or your favourite tee and jeans when knocking back a few Japanese whiskies. 

These pieces certainly have the potential to be potentially excellent investment pieces thanks to the brand’s reputation in aviation inspired watches. All these premium novelties represent the brands' turn to modernity. The small sizing, usage of precious metals and classic Spirit collection heritage with the five stars and brand emblem, allow them to have a genuine neo-vintage feel. We’ve mentioned neo-vintage watches are in demand now, right? 

You can buy a Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm for the following prices:


  • Steel Editions with leather strap - £2,800
  • Steel Editions with metal bracelet - £2,900
  • Steel and 18K Yellow Gold leather strap - £3,850
  • Steel and 18K Yellow Gold metal bracelet - £3,950


Other Specs Of The Longines Spirit Zulu Time


We know you are very busy people, so here is a detailed breakdown of each of the Spirit Zulu Time watches. 


Reference Numbers

Dial Colour




Blue Dial 




Blue Dial




Black Dial




Black Dial




Anthracite Dial




Anthracite Dial




Anthracite Dial


Steel and 18K Yellow Gold


Anthracite Dial


Steel and 18K Yellow Gold


Anthracite Dial

NATO-Style Strap

Steel and 18K Yellow Gold


COSC Certified - The brands automatic calibre L844.4 


24-Hour GMT Function, Date Aperture, Hours, Minutes, Seconds

Case Back


Water Resistance

100 metres

Case Thickness







The question is posed: Should you buy a Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm? We won’t beat around the bush…Absolutely! 

The amalgamation of the rich GMT Spirit heritage with the smaller case sizing means you aren't a man trapped in the horological past. Plus, you don’t need to be the stooge with the chunky 46mm watch in the office anymore.

As far as updates go, this latest release has modernised the 42mm Spirit Zulu collection perfectly. While some essential elements such as the five star emblem, dual-time function and exclusive in-house calibre have been done to a tee, the case size and continuation of precious metals welcomes a new breed to the Zulu collection. We firmly believe they will no doubt earn their pilot’s wings in seconds flat.

Can't wait to buy a Longines Spirit Zulu GMT watch? Want to be the most luxurious guy in the sky with this at your side? Why not get informed and talk to Chrono Hunter here. With such a vast array of established luxury retailers, you can check out our Trustpilot reviews to see why we are your essential source when you want to buy a watch or sell a watch. By utilising our dedicated app on all platforms, why not receive offers in less than 24 hours and save money the smart way.


Further Reading: 

38 Majestic New Timepieces We Spotted From Watches And Wonders 2023

The Most Stylish GMT Watches For Men


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