38 Hot New Timepieces We Spotted From Watches and Wonders 2023

So far, Watches and Wonders 2023 event has been a riot. There have been incredible drops like the Rolex Yacht-Master, Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Luce and the greenest watch you’ve ever seen from Oris, aptly named ‘Kermit’.

For the common watch aficionado, it can become a little disconcerting with the constant stream of watches flooding in from popular brands, so we’ve decided to take a little initiative and showcase 36 of the best watches we have seen at Watches and Wonders in 2023. Strap yourselves in…it’s going to be one heck of a horological ride!

1. IWC Ceramic Pilots Chronograph 41, Top Gun and Oceana

The IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41mm is designed to be extremely user friendly, with its Arabic numerals clearly standing out beautifully as well as IWC’s notorious triangle marker at 12 o’clock. Dosed with Super-Luminova, the dial is extremely readable. At 41mm it's not overly big either, allowing easy access on the wrist without the threat of it catching on cuffs. Made from 18K rose gold, the watch is ultimately beautiful to look at, especially when combining it with the green sunburst dial and matching strap. Need we say anymore than the superb EasX-CHANGE mechanism allowing for a quick strap swap? Perfect for those gents on the move.

IWC Pilots Chronograph - Source - IWC

The TOP GUN edition is more rugged and does not have the colour or vibrancy that follows the newly updated Pilots Chronograph 41. In fact, the TOP GUN edition is crafted out of ceramic and given a 0.9mm increase in size just to assert its masculinity in comparison with its updated counterpart. Do you feel the need for speed yet? You have the choice to go stealthy with black or a little bit more colourful with an Oceana blue which is actually inspired by US Navy pilots blue overalls. The Oceana edition has the option of a fabric strap in comparison to the TOP GUN edition which offers a rubber strap.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 41.1mm (Chronograph 41) 41.9mm (TOP GUN) / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph, day-date/ Power Reserve: 46 Hour (Chronograph 41) 48 Hour (TOP GUN)

You can buy an IWC TOP GUN Black at retail for £8,200, TOP GUN Oceana for £10,500 and the Pilots Chronograph 41 for £19,900 - at the time of writing.

2. Cartier Tank Normale

Most people have traditions like opening bucks fizz on New Years Eve or having a birthday party at a certain venue. Cartier does things a little differently…

Cartier Tank Normale - Source - Time and Tide

For the last 7 years, Cartier has released a model from its archives and modernised it while placing it under the exclusive ‘Cartier Privé collection. The Tank Normale is the latest watch on this storied collection and it comes in an array of different designs. With yellow gold versions featuring a rich brown alligator strap with hour and minute details, a skeletonised version that offers a 24 hour complication with a sun and moon detail (yellow gold or platinum) and lastly two models, built upon yellow gold or platinum bracelets. What can we say, these 7 striking options are more than enough to satisfy your Haute Horlogerie needs. Did we mention the skeletonised edition is capped at just 50 pieces? Talk about getting rarer by the minute! This may mean the new Tank Normale flying off the shelves in no time.

The basic design of the winding crown cabochon and the railroad track aesthetic keep the Tank Normale’s vintage look but it has been modernised with either new materials or openworked dial.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 32.6mm / Water Resistance: None / Functions: hours, minutes/ Power Reserve: 36 Hours

You can buy a Cartier Normale at retail for:

Platinum bracelet on platinum case: : Around £42,500
Yellow gold case and bracelet: Around £36,700
Platinum case on black alligator strap: Around £27,600
Yellow gold case on brown alligator strap: Around £24,500

3. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40mm

Those who know Rolex, know the watch originated from the Oyster Perpetual ‘Bubbleback’ that traversed Everest. And we have a timekeeping mountain to climb when it comes to filling you in with all the hottest new drops. So let’s dive straight in!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer - Source - Stern

Nowadays, the watch is waterproof to 100 metres and is crafted from extremely robust Oystersteel material. Utilising the patented twinlock winding crown to ensure no water can enter, the watch is screwed down to prevent any nasty spillages or droplets making it in. A sapphire crystal protects the black lacquer dial and is coated with anti-reflective material to ensure complete legibility. Furthermore, the dial is laced with Chromalight which offers a gentle blue hue in the darkest of winter nights. The bracelet features the Oysterlock clasp which allows for the utmost security as well as the bracelet being able to be amended in size to suit your wrist due to the easylink mechanism.

Upgrading in size from its predecessor at 36mm, this 40mm Explorer features the exceptional 3230 movement which can perform the necessities without anything else obstructing the refined dial. The movement features a Chronergy escapement which essentially means the watch is more resistant to magnetic fields and the use of a Parachrom hairspring means the watch is tougher against temperature fluctuations and shocks. Combine all of this highly skilled technology with their patented paraflex shock absorbers and you have a watch fit for exploring!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 40mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: hours, minutes, seconds/ Power Reserve: 70 Hour

You can buy a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40mm at retail for £6,450

4. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

The Zenith Pilot collection is their biggest line and is the most revered aspect of Zenith’s collection.

Zenith Pilot Big Pilot - Source - Zenith

Zenith have undertaken this phenomenal collection with two newly updated variations of the Big Date Flyback. One steel version is aptly named the ‘Rainbow Flyback’ due to its minutes totalizer being imbued with various colours at 5 minute intervals in order to increase its legibility.

Furthermore, Zenith fans will notice that there is a reference to the 1997 El Primero rainbow which is present in the form of the stark orange seconds and minutes hand. The black ceramic edition appears more rugged and keeps the colours limited to the same black grooved dial and white Arabic indices as the rainbow edition. The legendary ‘El Primero’ calibre has been updated to the 3652 which powers a date and flyback function. Beating at a rapid 5Hz, the calibre contains a patented compliant mechanism that controls the date function in less than 0.03 seconds. Wow…that’s quick!

We like the exhibition caseback that adds horological value and suits the complicated nature of the watch. With the option of a black or khaki rubber strap for the ceramic version and black and brown calfskin leather straps for the steel edition, the watch can be suited to a variety of situations either in the office or out in Geneva acclimatising oneself again after the busyness of Watches and Wonders 2023.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 40mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Date, chronograph with flyback function (30-minute counter at 3 o'clock), instantaneous big date jump/ Power Reserve: 60 Hour

You can buy a Zenith Pilot in ceramic for £11,900 at retail or the steel version at £10,100 retail - at the time of writing.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

The Reverso is easily Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most influential and recognisable model.

Reverso Tribute - Source - Time and Watches

Stemming from British soldiers' desire to play polo in 1931, the watch is reversible in order to protect the dial. The watch has since been revamped for Watches and Wonders 2023 and now features a new in-house movement, the calibre 860. Available in two case options, pink gold or steel, the watches are 29.9mm wide showing how slim they are and feature the phenomenal design aspects of gadroons, engraved lines around the case and Dauphine hands that all relate to the Art Deco period.

The dial is sunray brushed which provides a beautiful shine when light reflects on it. The steel edition uses a grey background to keep with the aesthetic of the steel and is layered with extra thin slices of titanium oxide. The pink gold edition relies on a black dial which offers a solid contrast and allows the similarly rose gold indices to stand out. The other side is skeletonised and finished with Côtes de Genève on the bridges. The indices are in the same place on the railway track design as the front dial showing that there is premium consistency in the aesthetics. The Calibre 860 is shaped as a rectangle in order to fit in with the case and has to power two sets of hands which aren't moving simultaneously. With 52 hours power reserve, the movement has to power a chronograph, retrograde displays and two differing time functions. My oh my this does pack one hell of a punch!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 29.9mm / Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Hours and minutes on both dials (same time displayed), chronograph with retrograde 30-minute counter/ Power Reserve: 52 Hour

You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre steel edition for £21,400 and the pink gold edition for £37,400 at retail - at the time of writing.

6. Rolex Perpetual 1908

Derived from the year that this Swiss powerhouse was officially trademarked, The Rolex 1908 Perpetual epitomises Rolex’s classic dress watch designs with first rate technological updates. The Perpetual 1908 measures 39mm and is crafted out of yellow gold. Its exhibition back allows for the highly intricate movement to be viewed and appreciated. The dial is impressive on its own accord, as its creamy white background offers small decorative enhancements like the choice of using Arabic numerals for 12, 3 and 9 o’clock while the rest of the indices are batons.

Rolex Perpetual 1908 - Source - Rolex

The bezel is designed in such a way that it is both domed and fluted, specifically, the bottom part is fluted while the upper is lifted into a dome. Rolex is able to do all of this due to its processes being conducted in house. Specifically, Rolex can utilise its foundries to create the highest quality materials such as the 18K for the case. The Alligator leather strap is matt brown or matt black, either one is stitched with a green lining and given an 18K yellow or white gold dual clasp which essentially means the clasp folds twice, enhancing the security of the watch. The Superlative Chronometer movement lasts for 66 hours and has paraflex shock absorbers as well as a Syloxi hairspring to enhance the performance and durability of the movement.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 39mm / Water Resistance: 50m / Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Second Hand, Stop Seconds / Power Reserve: 66 Hours

You can buy a Rolex 1908 at retail for £18,500

7. Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar 01432 And PAM01432

Panerai has pulled out the big guns by releasing two models in Goldtech and Platinum Tech.

Panerai Goldtech - Source - Watchbus

Both measuring 45mm, the respective materials are built to be more durable than their gold or platinum counterparts. The dials are beautifully done, featuring a blue dial with a sunburst finish on the Goldtech model and a burgundy finish on the Platinum Tech edition. Panerai’s P.9010/AC calibre offers functionality like the day and the date in an aperture at 3 o'clock. The movement uses Incabloc technology to protect against shock and beats at a hardy 4Hz.

The hands are exceptionally done and are in gold in both editions which stand out well against the blue and burgundy dials. They are dosed with Super-Luminova too meaning accessibility to the dial is always available. The strap matches the Panerai Goldtech edition as its blue alligator leather while the Platinum Tech edition has a darker burgundy dial which suits the black alligator leather strap.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 45mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Small Seconds, Month, Day, Date Hours, Minutes/ Power Reserve: 3 Days

You can buy a Panerai PAM01432 for £78,300 and a PAM01363 for £34,800 at retail - at the time of writing.

8. Hublot MP-13

The Hublot MP-13 is released with the main sling point that its a ‘100% Hublot Manufacture Complication’. Tell me more.

Hublot MP-13 - Source - Hublot

This is such a big selling point as Hublot are only one of a handful of watchmakers which have the capability of creating a double-axis tourbillon in-house as noted with their previous creation, the MP-09 in 2017. The dial is openworked and the hour and minute hands play a significant role. They each relate to a scale on the dial and once they reach the end of the scale, they jump back to the start again. If that wasn't impressive enough, it's also linked to a tourbillon which operates on two wavelengths, with one completing an entire rotation in one minute while the other does it specifically in 24 seconds. The watch is crafted out of satin polished titanium so is featherlight which helps to counteract against the large 44mm case. Limited to just 50 pieces, it is strapped up with a black rubber band which is durable and comfortable.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 44mm / Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Tourbillon Dual Axis, Power Reserve, Hours, Minutes/ Power Reserve: 96 Hours

You can buy a Hublot MP-13 at retail for £137,000 at the time of writing.

9. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

Built to be exceptionally thin, The Chopard Alpine Eagle is trending towards supporting the environment.

Chopard Alpine Eagle - Source - Italian Watch Spotter

The case and bracelet are crafted out of ‘A223’ which is made up of 85% recycled materials. Combine this with their pledges to source their precious metals through ethical mining and Chopard are clearly seeking to support the environment while making top class watches.

The timepiece’s dial is Monte Rose Pink which is achieved through galvanic treatment. They are so obsessed with the ‘Eagle’ aspect that it is said that the finish is based on the iris of an eagle as it has small intentional swirls from the centre outwards. The indices are in roman numeral form and are coated with Super-luminova to enhance legibility. The case is stainless steel and the caseback is see-through allowing you to see the L.U.C 96.40-L movement in all its glory. COSC certified it beats at 4Hz and utilises a balance spring and wheel to keep the watch stable and running correctly.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 44mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds/ Power Reserve: 65 Hours

You can buy a Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS at retail for £20,500 - at the time of writing.

10. TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Date

Launched as a celebration of 60 years since its first release, the Carrera Date has been going strong ever since. Racing prowess, pushing the limits and its sporting ethos are no match for many brands in the sports watch category.

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma - Source - TAG Heuer

The watch's most impressive feat comes in the form of the amount of diamonds that are adorned around the watch. The highly specialist Diamant d’Avant Garde technique essentially allows scientists to lab grow diamonds to a very high standard. Adorned on the aluminium bezel and throughout the dial, the TAG Heuer Carrera spirit is not lost amongst all this glitz and glamour. It’s not just Watches and Wonders 2023 that is providing the bling. The dial is as compact as ever with the classic 3 sub dial design being the centre stage of the 44mm matte black dial. The COSC certified Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement was crafted in-house and the lowest sub dial is skeletonised in order to show the tourbillon in action. Totalling 15.5 carats worth of diamonds, this isn't the first time lab-grown diamonds have been used by TAG as they also did so on the case, crown, dial and indexes in 2017. Good luck pulling this beast off!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 41mm / Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Travel Time, 24 hour-display, local and away time, minute, small seconds/ Power Reserve: 48Hours

You can buy a TAG Heuer Carrera at retail for CHF 500,000 or around £440,600

11. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

The Overseas collection was released in 1996 and brought with it a series of elegant watches designed to be worn with style and class. The Retrograde design offers a stunning visual aspect which is unparalleled to the rest of their models. This is primarily due to the indicator not making a complete circle of the dial, instead it immediately goes to its starting point when it reaches its desired measurement.

Overseas Retrograde - Source - Revolution Watch

At 41mm, it features both polished and satin-brushed stainless steel aspects which allows each part of the case and bezel to shine. Furthermore, the neon blue lacquered dial is given a sunburst and satin-brushed effect which allows it to shine on various points on the dial's face. The indices are white gold as well as the hands which stand out well against the deep blue dial. Treated with Super-Luminova, it’s highly legible in all instances. The moon phase display is tucked in at 6 o'clock while you eagle eyed viewers will have noticed the retrograde date circles the top of the dial almost like a crescent moon.

The calibre 2460 is strong and has a 22K gold oscillating weight as well as steady beat of 28,800VpH. The bracelet is either steel, calfskin leather or blue rubber, all of which are seamless in regards to the rest of the Vacheron Constantin. The folding clasp has triple security through its triple folding clasp meaning it will not fall off in a hurry!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 41mm / Water Resistance: 50m / Functions: hours, minutes, retrograde date and moon phase/ Power Reserve: 40 Hours

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moonphase Retrograde Date at exclusive boutiques for a price which is yet to be determined.

12. Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden

Bell & Ross are famed for their uncompromising yet distinctive square dials which are usually compact and very sporty.

BR 05 Skeleton - Source - Bell & Ross

In this instance, the story has changed as this timepiece is now a piece of avant-garde genius! The skeleton movement is something you would never have associated with Bell & Ross, especially since they are so well renowned for their boxy resilience and ‘made to last’ design. The movement is skeletonised and reveals the essential aspects within. The flange is golden and galvanised meaning the innards are given a mysterious shadow and silhouette. It therefore helps that the indices and hands are filled with Super-Luminova, The bracelet is integrated which allows it to be more seamless due to the bracelet and case both being made out of stainless steel. The watch is designed to be minimalistic yet worn in day to day life. All the Bell & Ross models are technologically advanced, it just took a bit of time for the design to move out of the tool world and into the world of Haute Horlogerie. Chapeau bas!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 40mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds./ Power Reserve: 48 hours

You can buy a Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton at retail for £6,500 - at the time of writing.

13. Panerai Radiomir California PAM01349

Ever heard of the Paneristi?

Radiomir California - Source - SJX watches

As exclusive as the Stonecutters, The Paneristi and the rest of the timekeeping world for that matter enjoy the Panerai Radiomir California due to its ultra-vintage looking dial. At 45mm, this Panerai is made out of a Brunito eSteel case which essentially is recycled steel. It’s nice to see that big brands are doing little bits to help the environment wherever they can. 45mm is a size that's never been associated with the California dial and the forest green allure with a gradient means it gets darker towards its periphery. But you won’t be running for the verdant hills! The numerals are very interesting as they combine both Arabic and Roman numerals together. This funky design is what makes the California dial so special as it was made popular by a Californian Jeweller. Panerai’s P.5000 calibre is manual wind and only needs to power the necessities. The case is given a weathered look to enhance the forest green aesthetic as well as the calfskin leather strap that looks like it was used more than Mike Tyson's boxing glove. To patina or not to patina that is the question.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 45mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hours/ Power Reserve: 8 Days

You can buy a Panerai Radiomir California at retail for £10,600 at the time of writing.

14. A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

The Odysseus collection is 4 years old and has been one of the brand's most successful releases to date.

Odysseus Chronograph - Source - A. Lange & Söhne

Limited to 100 pieces, this new release represents the first timepiece that incorporates their own in-house automatic chronograph movement. The movement is named the L156.1 calibre and it utilises a phenomenal mechanism which swiftly releases the chronograph hand from where it is back to zero. The A. Lange & Söhne stainless steel case is both brushed and has chamfered aspects which allows the case to have a gleam to it which in turn, opens up the dials face. Due to the centre of the dial being a tad sunk in, in comparison to the indices on the periphery, the dial is almost hypnotic and extremely legible. Featuring a date and day aperture at 3 and 9 o'clock respectively, it is fairly minimal with only a chronograph function at 6 o'clock. The red accents of the text and chrono seconds hand stand out against the black dial and silvery indices, making every aspect present and obvious. But hey, when you only bring one release to the timekeeping table at Watches and Wonders 2023, sometimes less is definitely more. Especially when you have the iconic Zeitwerk up your horological sleeve.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 42.5mm / Water Resistance: 120m / Functions: Outsize date, chronograph, zero reset, day-of-week display/ Power Reserve: 50 hours

You can buy a A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph at retail when you request a price.

15. Cartier Santos Dumont

Cartier has released three new models in three equally precious metals across the Santos Dumont lineup.

Cartier Santos Dumont - Source - Swisswatches Magazine

Specifically, the watches are crafted out of platinum, rose gold and yellow gold. Each model does have some similarities however. For example, they all have the classic Roman numeral indices design on the dial. The Roman numerals also coincide well with the cabochon that has become a staple. There are only 200 models released of each variation so they will be most likely sought after. In a square which is based around the middle of the hands, there’s a guilloche effect which could be misconstrued as an optical illusion when instead its subtle lines draw the eyes more to the colourful indices.

There are two more Cartier Santos releases which are not limited but still look superb. There is a yellow gold edition which has a textured blue dial and a steel and yellow gold edition with a grey dial which is the most visually unique out of all of them in our opinion. It must be noted that the first three models are extra large while the two just mentioned are large.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 46.6mm (XL) 43.5MM (L)/ Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Hours, minutes/ Power Reserve: 43 hours

You can buy a Cartier Santos Dumont at retail when the price has been confirmed.

16. Chopard Imperiale

The Chopard Imperiale is usually associated with wealth and prestige due to their flamboyant designs.

Chopard Imperiale - Source - Luxury Launches

A close look at this release would find a lotus flower which is in fact a key aspect of Chopard’s Imperiale collection. Since its launch in 1994, the image has been conjured up on crowns, cases and even movements. It’s so prevalent on watches that in 2017, Chopard won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the jewellery category with their wonderful Lotus Blanc creation which was adorned with diamonds. This new edition uses the same lotus flower on an 18K rose gold case, this time with its petals centre stage in the middle of the dial. The intricacies are immense, with some aspects such as the petals on the flower are engraved then finished with a beautiful satin brushed aesthetic.

The petals which are skeletonised near the centre and at the top are structured so that they can rotate on a disk which turns every 24 h to symbolise the night of the day. Unbelievably, the sapphire encrusted ‘night sky’ at the top, rotates to expose a diamond ‘morning’. Yes, Timelords. This really is the limit of watchmaking and jewellery!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 28.4/ Water Resistance: 50m / Functions: Central display of the hours, minutes, and seconds Day/night function/ Power Reserve: 65 hours

You can buy a Chopard when the prices are released later on.

17. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

The Rolex Day-Date tends to be associated with the wealthy and the social elites among us.

Day-Date - Source - Prestige Hong Kong

First released in 1956, it represented the first calendar wristwatch to show the date and the day of the week which was written out in its entirety. Should we mention you can get the day of the week written in your choice of 26 languages? As per the celeb clientele of the Rolex Oyster Day-Date such as Micheal Jordan and Jack Nicklaus, it has only been made in the most precious of materials such as yellow gold or 950 platinum. This novelty has now been updated past its formal roots to incorporate some rather bizarre colouring on the dial. No, this is not as puzzling as working out the chief suspect at the end of every Poirot episode. With a fetching yet uncommon jigsaw pattern on the dial these three watches are made from 18K yellow, white or Everose gold in a variety of colour spectrums. The dial achieves this colourful aesthetic through champlevé enamelling which allows the dial to reach a level of depth that standard engraving couldn't do. The happiness aesthetic is continued as the day of the week arc is replaced with words like ‘Happy’ or ‘Gratitude’ plus, the hour makers are replaced with baguette cut sapphires. The colour of the dial changes per variant, for example the yellow and white gold editions have a turquoise dial while the Everose gold has an orange backdrop. You can almost taste the rainbow but this is more than likely to split enthusiasts a bit like Marmite.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 36mm/ Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hour, Minutes, Seconds, Inspirational Quote, Hour, Minutes, Seconds, Day, Date/ Power Reserve: 70 hours

You can buy a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date when the prices are released later on.

18. Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Automatic Full Texalium-Carbon

Hublot loves to make watches which push the boundaries of horology far past anyone expected. Materials and unusual tones like Saxem have made it into their timekeeping stable like The snappily titled Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Saxem Act II.

Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Texalium Carbon - Source - Hublot

Coming in at 43mm, it is crafted out of carbon which is naturally used in the race car industries due to its lightweight and durable properties. For those struggling with the word ‘Texalium’, it essentially adds fibreglass with aluminium to the carbon in order to strengthen its properties further. The integrated Tourbillon Automatic is controlled by the very powerful HUB6035 which utilises a micro-rotor and the tourbillon itself, resulting in a very strong 72 hour power reserve. Enough for a romantic weekend away or for that all important business trip overseas. To the naked eye, we think it looks absolutely stunning, but to those with exceptional vision, it is incredible as it blends the case with an integrated bracelet, both of which are crafted out of carbon. The dial is skeletonised and shows the intricacies of the movement like the micro-rotor at 12 o'clock and the skeletonised tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The movement beats at 21,600BVpH and looks and feels the same as a sports car. Keep your hand poised on the buy button because there are only 50 models of this rare model made!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 43mm/ Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon/ Power Reserve: 72 hours

You can buy a Hublot when the prices are revealed later on.

19. Zenith Defy Revival Shadow

Zenith brought the old school Defy Revival back for Watches and Wonders 2023 and we are so pleased that they did!

Zenith Revival Shadow - Source - Augustman Singapore

The Defy collection started in 1969 and has last been updated at the start of 2022 wherein an accurate interpretation was made and promptly loved by watch fans. Built out of micro blasted titanium, the watch is seemingly made to be rather dark unlike its counterpart the icy cool Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier. The microblasting effect on the new Revival Shadow provides a matte finish which is what makes the watch look so mysterious and darkened, hence the name ‘Shadow’. Water resistant up to a very impressive 300 metres, the watch is a real enigma to try and understand.The hands and boxy indices are rhodium plated which make them very legible and they are coated with a healthy dose of Super-Luminova to increase their visibility. No point being a ninja and not being able to see! Powered by the in-house Zenith Elite 670 calibre, it moves along at a respectable 28,800VpH which is further bolstered with a 50 hour power reserve. The bracelet is unusual as it is open but actually relates to the Gay Freres design back from its inception in 1969. It's also finished in the stealthy matte titanium, making the whole piece seamless. A dress watch? Possibly not…a unique statement timepiece? Most definitely.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 37mm/ Water Resistance: 300m / Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date/ Power Reserve: 50 hours

You can buy a Zenith Shadow at retail for around £6,600 at the time of writing.

20. Panerai Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech

The Radiomir has seen a few upgrades at Watches and Wonders 2023!

Radiomir Quaranta - Source - New York Times

The Quaranta edition of this watch is given a cushion case and a large crown. Its predecessors have tended to be quite large in their size, touching 45mm or sometimes as big as 47mm which for some may be a tad oversized. However, this watch is a comedown from the larger watches at 40mm and represents a modern fit on the wrist. The case is crafted out of Goldtech and is designed to offer a warm colour like a lighter copper which shines whenever light hits it. This is a massive change from the tool watch style it previously adopted with its stainless steel materials and huge sizing. The white dial experiences sunburst finishing which gives the watch a certain shine when sitting in the middle of the gold case. The case is not overly cluttered either, keeping things fairly minimal with a date aperture at 3 and a small seconds sundial at 9 with the gold hands running along smoothly over the top. The P.900 calibre can be seen through the exhibition back and offers an avant garde modernisation to the vintage inspired watch. A 72 hour power reserve keeps on running consistently with or without you present!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 40mm/ Water Resistance: 50m / Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date/ Power Reserve: 72 hours

You can buy a Panerai Radiomir Quaranta at retail for around £15,700 - at the time of writing.

21. Zenith Defy Skyline & Defy Skyline Skeleton

Bringing in an all black ceramic edition of the Defy Skyline is something that is keeping with Zenith's recent releases of understatement and mystery. Black ceramic is very durable and when coloured, provides a sheen like no other material. Both shaped up at 41mm, they are not too big as to be overly present on the wrist, while they maintain their durability and integrated bracelet design, making the watch appear seamless.

Defy Skyline Skeleton - Source - Watchonista/Zenith

The skeleton edition goes a step further, removing the dial completely and showing the energetic beatings of the calibre 3620. This is surely a hot contender for the ninja community due to its slight design and pitch black aesthetics. The black dial is given a sunray finish to allow the watch to still gleam, even in its current state of perpetual darkness. It also helps that the hands and indices are coated with Super-Luminova to ensure that legibility is present at all times. Would it really be a Zenith without the awesome ‘El Primero’ 3620 calibre? With the ability to run up to 60 hours of power reserve and a 1/10th of a second subdial featured at 9 o'clock, the watch pumps away at a resounding 36,000VpH

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 41mm/ Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hours, minutes, 1/10 seconds/ Power Reserve: 60 hours

You can buy a Zenith Defy Skyline at retail for £13,300 or the skeleton edition for £15,000 - at the time of writing.

22. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Small Seconds

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is released again in pink gold! For 2023, take your pick in terms of colours, Timelords. You can go for a burgundy dial with a lacquer effect, a black dial with a sunray finish or a silver sunray option. All of which are beautifully done and look sleek and incredibly classy on the wrist. Combined with the dials are the options to have a calf leather strap which promotes comfort and style, plus, they have varying colours in order to suit the dial choice you go for. Made for Casa Fagliano, Argentinian designer shop the fabric is wonderful and won't cause you any discomfort at all. Powering these 27.4mm gems is the calibre 822 which has a strong power reserve of 42 hours and power the seconds counter at six o’clock as well as the dauphine hands that taper towards the gadroons with an inherent beauty which is hard to find in any other watch.

Reverso Small Seconds - Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 27.4mm/ Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds/ Power Reserve: 42 hours

You can buy a Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds at retail for a price upon request.

23. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

A second time and a day night indicator? You bet.

Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon - Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon carries on the Reversos legacy from all the way back in 1931 by offering the same level of refinement yet with more complications. At 45.5mm by 27.4mm, the case is crafted out of a stunning pink gold which allows the slate grey sunburst dial on the front and the miniature black dial on the back to beam out.

Jaeger Le-Coultre have essentially gone to town on the complications, releasing the front with the time and tourbillon functions and the back with a second time zone completed with a day and night indicator. All powered by the calibre 847, the watch has a 38 hour power reserve and is very thin to accommodate the 9.15mm case thickness.

They also know how to make the best out of the slight design as they have skeletonised some of the dial to reveal the movement and a small disk is added to cleverly bounce light into the Tourbillon’s mechanisms to make it look even more impressive.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 45.5mm/ Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Hours, minutes, second time zone, day/night, tourbillon/ Power Reserve: 38 hours

You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre at retail when you inquire about a price.

24. Rolex Sky-Dweller - 3 New Variations

Rolex are on a rampage, reissuing and redoing a whole host of watches, references and models in order to make them look truly fantastic and appeal to both the enthusiast and would-be collector.

Rolex Sky Dweller - Source - Watch Collecting

Firstly, one edition has a new cyan style dial colour which has never been seen on a Rolex before. Furthermore, combine it with an Everose gold case and bracelet and you have a watch which is ultimately superb to look at. The second edition comes as a mint green dial which finds itself in a case combination of Oystersteel and white gold. For the watch nerds out there, the mint green dial was originally a colour only found on very few Rolex models, notably the Datejust model. Both of the models mentioned do have one thing in common which is that they both have Explorer straps.

It’s not just the dial colour which is changing either. For the final Sky-Dweller released, this Rolex has a white gold case with a black dial which matches perfectly with the black Oysterflex rubber strap. While the changes may seem far flung from each other, the basic concepts are the same such as them all having 42mm Oyster cases, solid casebacks and the patented Twinlock crown. The Sky-Dweller has the unique functions which all these models adhere to which is the Ring Command System, allowing time zones and calendar adjustments to be made through the very iconic fluted bezel and crown.

They are all fitted with the latest calibre 9002 which features typical Rolex security measures like a Parachrom Hairspring and a Chronergy escapement to ensure resistance to magnetic fields and protection from shocks and knocks. Need we say they are COSC certified? Oops we just did.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 42mm/ Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, 24 hour time zone, Saros Annual Calendar/ Power Reserve: 42 hours

You can buy a Rolex Sky-Dweller at retail when you inquire about a price.

25. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179

Quite possibly the most bananas watch released this year from JLC, this watch could easily be seated at the Mad Hatters Tea Party. Time to go through the looking glass and introduce you to The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179.

Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 - Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre

On the face, the intersecting lines and complications look as though you may travel back in time with Marty McFly. This interesting and daring piece may very well make you go back to the future…or even to the Georgian period. We don’t know quite what to make of it but it is an incredible watch. Featuring the calibre 179 Gyrotourbillon inside, spot the second time zone on the back and a hemispherical spring happening in this watchmaking marvel.

While the inner cage performs one rotation every 16 seconds, the outer cage is a tad slower at once every 60 seconds. Oh the shame! There is a polished blue lacquered disc situated behind the tourbillon window to give it that extra zhuzz.Oh they really have all the horological bases covered! For those who know their watch history, you’ll have noticed that the front dial subtly hints at the Art Deco period through the thin gold lines contrasting beautifully with the blue lacquer background. Of course, the back side is neglected and is skeletonised, exposing the bridges and the golden elements of the Calibre 179.

The watch is ultimately crazy to look at but has a certain avant garde feel which is rare to get your hands on nowadays. Even to the inside of the case which has a sunray pattern etched in, the level of detail is utterly astonishing!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 51.2mm/ Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Hours, minutes, second time zone with 24 hour time indicator, Gyrotourbillon/ Power Reserve: 40 hours

You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica at retail when you inquire about a price.

26. Grand Seiko SBGD213

Grand Seiko knows how to craft something that's thoroughly gorgeous.

Grand Seiko SBGD213 - Source - Grand Seiko

Crafted from a base of platinum 950, the case is 44.5mm and isn't something that quaint or dainty. The case does still have elements of high jewellery, for example it is structured with 112 diamonds on the case and 60 on the bezel and one blue sapphire on the crown for a rather sexy look. Surprisingly, the watch offers 100 metres water resistance and for those who know their Grand Seiko branding, the case is tapered to look like a lion as per Grand Seiko’s animal emblem. And the design elements don't finish there either. The surfaces are finished with a ‘Zaratsu’ polish to make all the surfaces both flat and immaculate. Hell, it could almost double up as a mirror! It's not just the platinum that is designed to be cleanly polished either. In fact, the diamonds are placed so well into the watch that they come across as flat, allowing the entire piece to be seamless.

Totalling 94 diamonds and 26 sapphires, the watch is not one to carry round the streets alone. All aspects of the watch are handmade, including the gem setting which shows the level of time that goes into these watches. The calibre 9R01 is present through the skeletonised back and is polished thoroughly in order to blend in with the rest of the model. It runs exceptionally well between half a second per day and the watch can also be altered to change time zones without stopping the watch due to a nifty adjustable hour hand. Oh yes, the watch also runs up to 192 hours power reserve. Nice!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 44.5mm/ Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, adjustable hour hand/ Power Reserve: 192 hours

You can buy a Grand Seiko SBGD213 at retail for £245,000 at the time of writing.

27. Bell & Ross BR 03 Professional Collection GMT Blue

Don’t say we don’t know how to give you all the latest natterings! Watches and Wonders 2023 is no different as this GMT beauty only dropped on Day 3. Introducing Bell & Ross who love trying out new things…and we say keep on trying!

BR 03-93 - Source - WatchLounge

Releasing the BR 03-93 GMT during Watches and Wonders, the watch blends both blue and grey together which creates a nice contrast between the blue sunray dial, the dual colour blue and grey bezel and the steely case. The dial is luminous of course and the bezels contrasting colours draws the eyes in instantaneously. It serves to demonstrate the character and personality of Bell and Ross which is one of adventure and its intrinsic utilitarian purpose through its boxy shape but also that it can be worn casually because of its colour and nice dial effect. Bell & Ross certainly know what to use when it comes to making sure the watch is a useful tool. Their adoption of the GMT complication shows how they know the modern consumer as we dont need tachymetric scales, but we do need to be able to quickly tell the time when crossing into another country. The BR-CAL.303 calibre has a 42 hour power reserve and beats at a steady 28,800VpH. It fits in with no problems inside the 42mm case and the distinctive red indicator triangle can differentiate the second time zone with ease due to its contrast with the blue dial face. Pair it with a navy shirt or three piece suit for the office or go casual with a T-shirt and jeans - it’s your choice.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 42mm/ Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hours, minutes, GMT, Date / Power Reserve: 42 hours

You can buy a Bell & Ross BR 03 at retail for £3,800 - at the time of writing.

28. Zenith Pilot Automatic

The Zenith Pilot is dive bombing away from what it was and is forging a new path for itself. After all, it’s good to be different! The model has slimmed down its 45mm predecessor to a 40mm case instead. This is combined with a few other trimmings such as the lugs being slightly hemmed in as opposed to them being bulky while the crown has been altered to be more slender in comparison to its bulbous father. The watch itself is finished to perfection, keeping the surfaces either black ceramic which has promptly been micro blasted or stainless steel which has a brushed effect. With 100 metres of water resistance, the model's dial is minimalist and features strong vertical lines across the face.

Zenith Pilot Automatic - Source - Zenith

The date window at 6 o'clock with a white frame is neat and doesn't take too much of the dials face up, keeping with the refined aesthetic the watch is going for. The markers are white and luminescent which stand out a treat against the black dial. The tapered second hand is a nice touch.The iconic El Primero calibre is famous in its own right so it's only fair you get a glimpse of it through a sapphire case back. The calibre runs at 36,000 VpH and can be left up to 60 hours showing how durable this watch is.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 40mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Date, hours, minutes, seconds/ Power Reserve: 60 Hour

You can buy a Zenith Pilot in ceramic for £8,500 at retail or the steel version at £6,700 - at the time of writing.

29. Hublot Square Big Bang Unico Sapphire

Just announced on Wednesday, Hublot has as usual shaken the community up with a few things, namely the square design concept on their new Big Bang Unico Sapphire.

Hublot Big Bang Sapphire - Source - Hublot

The watches are crafted with the strong, square format that has so far been extremely effective. This is certainly the case when considering the sapphire crystal caseback which ensures visibility into every nook and cranny of the timepiece. The horological hat trick of variants, yes, there's three options for you, are made up of either titanium which has been wonderfully polished to create a great sheen, an edition made out of King Gold, an alloy created by Hublot with both options either in steel or ceramic bezel. Can't remember if you're wearing a Hublot? The bezel is fitted with 6 H shaped screws which signify the Maisons design. The Unico movement is adopted and built in-house. It beats at 4Hz and gives a strong power reserve of 72 hours meaning it’s the perfect weekend watch. The HUB1280 competently fits within the square shape of the case and can be perused through the sapphire caseback. With two models made out of ceramic and one made purely out of sapphire, the watches are phenomenal and show the skilful craftsmanship of Hublot. Limited to 250 pieces, we don’t see this being around long.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 42mm / Water Resistance: 50m / Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback function/ Power Reserve: 72 Hour

You can buy a Hublot in sapphire for £82,000 at retail or the ceramic versions in white or black for £22,600 at the time of writing.

30. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon "Glassbox”

Has it really been six decades since the infamous Carrera emerged?. Time flies, especially in watchmaking circles. But since it's the 60th Anniversary of the Carrera model, TAG Heuer is blessing us with not one but two sublime chronograph models and the Glassbox. Measuring 42mm, it utilises a very clean sapphire crystal which is shaped and rises like a box above the dial. The dial is given a clever finish through gentle brushstrokes which circle around the dial and draw your eyes in. It's not too much that it's disorientating however and allows for an easy viewing.

The whole watch is refined, with the minute track bending over the edge of the dial which in turn increases legibility and gives the tourbillon and the sub dials sufficient space on the dial. The case is similarly brushed too but this time it combines a polished finish as well in order to enhance the subtleties of the case like the protruding lugs and the old school crown sans guards.

TAG Heuer Chronograph Tourbillon - Source - TAG Heuer

The TH20-09 calibre is COSC certified and beats at 28,800VpH. Housing a hardy 65 hour power reserve. The movement is smart and sharp and powers the tourbillon and sub dials with first rate efficiency. Pair this with a sharp silver suit to accentuate this timepiece or opt for a more casual apparel with an off navy jumper or cashmere number.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 42mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Tourbillon, hours, minutes, seconds, flyback function/ Power Reserve: 65 Hour

You can buy a TAG Heuer at retail for £19,950 at the time of writing.

31. Patek Philippe Calatrava 5224R

“Holy Trinity” member Patek Philippe has confirmed that they are undoubtedly the king of the travel time function with this model!

Calatrava 5224R - Source - Patek Philippe

At 42mm, the Calatrava 5224R is rose gold and features a very tidy navy blue dial. The dial in itself has been altered from previous 24 hour dial designs due to the watch spinning the 24 digits to the bottom of the watch instead of its usual position at the top. It shows the quirky side of Patek Philppe and that nothing is ever to be expected! The dial is finished with a ripple effect through azurage and different styles of brushing and graining in order to achieve the desired effect. The Arabic numerals are clear and designed to be white with a gold edge.

The movement is phenomenal and we can bask in its timekeeping glory through the sapphire back. The calibre 31-260 PS FUAH powers a travel time function and alterations are made through a patented mechanism in the crown. This removes the need for pushers and essentially makes the watch slimmer and much smarter.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 42mm / Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: Tourbillon, 24 hour display, local and away time, hours, minutes, small seconds/ Power Reserve: 48 Hour

You can buy a Patek Phillipe Calatrava 5224R at retail for £46,190 at the time of writing.

32. Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni essentially updates the 1936 model with modern functions and designs.

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni - Source - Panerai

Panerai have stuck to their guns in making the most legible watches popular as per their history stemming back to creating “Radiomir,” the first luminescent substance used on watches. As the watches were worn primarily by the Royal Italian Navy, Panerai have worked from this and given their eSteel case a more rugged look through PVD coating. This is defined as Brunito by Panerai and it does look superb! Measuring 45mm, the watch is a behemoth but not as bad as its predecessors which came in at 47mm. You have the choice of picking either blue or brown for your dial, both of which are given a tidy gradient which darkens towards the periphery. The P.5000 movement powers the small seconds display and a power reserve which lasts for a solid 8 days. It beats at a steady 3Hz and can be seen operating merrily away through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 45mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds/ Power Reserve: 8 Days

You can buy a Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni at retail for £8,400 at the time of writing.

33. Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

Chopard is doing the rounds this time at Watches and Wonders 2023, releasing some really tantalising pieces for our consumption!

Alpine Eagle Cadence - Source - SwissWatchMagazine

Crafted at 41mm and made out of titanium, the watch is already significantly lighter and more durable than stainless steel due to the inherent properties that titanium has. It’s not just robust either, as it's finished with a glorious satin finish on the bezel, case and bracelet. As with the other new Alpine Eagle released by Chopard, the dial is given a swirling effect to imitate an eagle's iris. Chopard really does pull out all the stops for eagles! In comparison to the case and bezel which features a refined polish, the watches dial is almost hypnotic but promotes legibility through the applied hour markers and hands which are all given a good dose of Grade X1 Super-Luminova. The dial has a little quirk which is the peculiar misshapen arrow just below the centre of the dial. Not to worry, Timelords, this is to remind you that your watch holsters a very powerful movement…courtesy of the calibre 01.12-C.

COSC certified, it beats two times faster than your normal automatic movement due to its running at 8Hz. Want to see it in action? Check it out through the sapphire caseback and watch the 60 hour movement pulsate like a throbbing nightclub.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 41mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds and date/ Power Reserve: 60 hours.

You can buy a Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF when prices are released.

34. Chopard L.U.C 1860

Chopard’s L.U.C 1860 collection represented the first watch to feature the highly capable calibre 1.96 in 1997 and Chopard has sought to replicate a few key points from it. Measuring 36.5mm, the watch is built from Lucent steel which is slowly becoming a staple of most of Chopard's timepieces. It is extremely robust and is also luminescent which means the watch can be spotted a mile away.

The dial is very interesting as it's crafted from a combination of both gold and salmon, resulting in a shade of something rather unique to the horological world. Chopard don't just leave it there either, as it places their cartouche centre stage and gives it a beaming sunray effect from the logo, downwards throughout the dial's face. The outer ring which features the indices in is given a satin brushed finish instead. This contrasts nicely with the sunray effect in the inner ring, making the indices more legible. The Dauphine hands and applied white gold indices are still centre stage and refined, as they stand out against the darker salmon hue.

Chopard L.U.C 1860 - Source - Man of Many

The 96.40 calibre is crafted in house and is extremely thin, equating to a profile of just 3.30mm. Housing a 22k gold rotor, it is so effective that the watch is given a 65 hour power reserve and a COSC certification due to the small seconds indication which comes with the useful stop-seconds mechanism. Visible through the sapphire back, the movement is adorned with Geneva stripes and graining to show that quality runs mechanism deep.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 36.5mm / Water Resistance: 30m / Functions: hours, minutes, small hacking seconds/ Power Reserve: 65 hours.

You can buy a Chopard L.U.C 1860 when prices are released.

35. Hublot Square Big Bang Unico in Diamonds and King Gold

Hublot has released watches so bejewelled with diamonds that it could even make Marie Antoinette shudder!

Hublot Square Big Bang UNICO - Source - Hublot

The collections released by Hublot are those which are made out of titanium or Hublots own King Gold and are named ‘Diamonds’ or ‘Jewellery’. Just to clarify how adorned these watches really are, there are four ‘levels’ which establish what exactly the level of depth is in these watches in terms of precious metals.

Level one finds just the bezel glittered with 44 diamonds, the second level is more intense with a total of 138 white diamonds which now creep onto the case, the third level highlights the jewellery aesthetic of the watches as the bezel has 50 diamonds which is nothing in comparison to the 94 set into the case and lastly, the fourth level goes all out and displays 285 diamonds on the case, bezel to even the flange and hour markers.

We must say that the titanium edition superbly reflects the diamonds and makes this an excellent addition to Hublot’s more pricey models. The King Gold models shouldnt be disregarded as they are also beautifully crafted and stand out superbly against the array of diamonds.

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 42mm / Water Resistance: 10 ATM / Functions: Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel/ Power Reserve: 72 hours.

You can buy a Hublot Square Big Bang Unico when prices are released.

36. Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden

Bell & Ross continue on with the skeletonised design, resulting in a model which is highly sophisticated and passable for Haute Horlogie.

BR 05 Skeleton - Source - Bell & Ross

The case is 40mm and is crafted out of steel. While this may be a little plain to your precious metal purists, the case is satin brushed and bolted in with 4 screws on each corner of the sturdy case.

Bell & Ross continue to develop their style, moving out of the tool watch arena and into the world of the avant garde. The exhibition back goes to show this as the dial is given a golden flange in order to create a silhouette effect and allow the movement inside the case to cast shadows which is very aesthetically pleasing.

Of course, the watch is still very much operable due to the indices and hands being laced with Super-Luminiova which allows the watch to be legible in a variety of circumstances. The BR-CAL.322 calibre is skeletonized which means the watch is seamless in its desire to be unique and not built like your average Bell & Ross tool watch.

Did we mention that the bracelet is integrated too? The watch is ultimately stylish and ergonomic which is a tough combination to glean these days!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 40mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hour Minutes Seconds/ Power Reserve: 72 hours.

You can buy a Bell & Ross at retail for £6,500 at the time of writing.

37. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon - Green Dial

What is it with green dials? The Oris X Propilot Kermit Edition has already been turning many heads at Watches and Wonders 2023. And now Vacheron Constantin has got in on the act. Designing a stunning watch which blends vintage aspects of the Traditionnnelle’s lineage and the modern green hue, VC are as on trend as sparkly pants from this year's Paris Fashion Week. But this model is certainly not a load of old horological knickers!

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sunburst Dial - Source - Vacheron Constantin

The 41mm case is crafted out of 950 platinum which adds a perfect ring to the evergreen dial. The dial itself is a very rich green and is a colour that's become one of the hottest trends in the watchmaking circles. The dial is galvanised which offers a nice shine when hit with light, plus it allows the refined platinum hands and indices to stand out, especially when covered in Super-Luminova.

Nothing says green like a green strap too! The strap is made out of leather and keeps with the colour aesthetic of the case. It is ultimately seamless and is coherently blended throughout the entire model. The watch is powered by the highly skilled calibre 2160/1 which is super slim at just 5.65mm. Beating at a steady 18,00VpH which is more suited to small pocket watches, beauty is very much tourbillon deep with stunning aesthetics and a tourbillon regulator mechanism. This ensures the calibre has such slim characteristics. The watch has a sapphire caseback meaning you can see the circular-grained baseplate and awe-inspiring Côtes-de-Genève bridges that are hand bevelled to perfection. Other aspects to notice are the exceptional 22k gold peripheral vintage mass and peripheral rotor which culminates in a power reserve of a whopping 80 hours.

Now, we just want Vacheron to unleash the salmon dial version right now!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 41mm / Water Resistance: 3 BAR / Functions: Tourbillon, Hours, Minutes, small second/ Power Reserve: 80 Hours.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin at retail for a price on request at the time of writing.

38. Panerai Radiomir Calendario Annuale Platinumtech Experience

Radiomir Calendar Annuale Experience - Source - Watches and Wonders

Saving the best nearly for last, Day 5 saw Panerai debut their first timepiece to feature an annual calendar complication. Talk about keeping us on tenterhooks! Step forward the limited edition Radiomir Calendario Annuale Platinumtech Experience. Measuring 45mm in diameter, the case is crafted out of Panerai’s very own Platinumtech alloy. Synonymous with heritage, the first prototype of the Radiomir was introduced in 1935 and was later distributed to the Italian Navy during this era. For those who are unfamiliar with the material, it essentially means platinum that Panerai has modified in order to make it stronger than the original. Like all good things, Panerai has refused to disclose how it is made and has kept us wondering. Panerai are looking to cross borders with this watch by having the dial feature various languages and styles from across the globe.

Take for example the Arabic numerals which blend with the Italian date system. There’s more cosmopolitanism going on than strolling down the Champs-Élysées. The warm burgundy colour adds a wonderful fiery dimension to the watch and contrasts with the white indices, dosed with Super-Luminova. This would look perfect with darker tones or a crisp white shirt to offset the dark burgundy almost wine coloured dial. The P.9010/AC calibre is quick off the mark, beating at a pacy 28,800VpH. Supported by Incabloc technology, the movement is stable and won't be damaged by everyday knocks and abrasions. Thank goodness for that considering it's a limited edition piece of 24 models made!

Specs

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 45mm / Water Resistance: 100m / Functions: Hour Minutes/ Power Reserve: 3 days.

You can buy a Panerai Radiomir Calendar Annuale Experience at retail for £78,300 at the time of writing.

Conclusion

We have reached the end…for now. Day 5 at Watches and Wonders 2023 has brought more sportier numbers off the conveyor belt. It really has been a horological treasure trove of delights that has left us giddy at the chamfers! With 8 sparkling releases from Hublot, thanks to their new iterations of the opulent Big Bang Unico Square series and Panerai who launched their first annual calendar complication, we have felt like a horological kid in a Patek Philippe boutique store.

There are of course many other honourable mentions such as the Parmigiani Fleurier which saw three timepieces being released with Gregorian, Islamic and Chinese calendars. How could we forget Oris and their worlds first watch that combines an automatic mechanical movement with a mechanical altimeter in 2014 and updates it to be lighter with an even clearer display. What about the Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit Electrum which brings a whole other world of colour to our wonderful world of watchmaking? The list could go on forever with watches being released constantly throughout this very exciting week. I hope you are just as excited as we are!

Feeling a burning desire to buy a Rolex? Want to see if you can get your hands on one of the watches in our list? Save yourself some time and have a little chat with Chrono Hunter right here? If you catch yourself wanting to buy a watch, why not have a peruse of our wonderful Trustpilot reviews to see why we are so revered by the public and are their number one choice. Happy Hunting!

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