Newswatch is back on the scene with some of the latest releases and goings on from the watch world. This time, we look at H. Moser & Cie’s first ever tantalum timepiece, the newest iteration of the Seiko 5 sports watch and Longines update to the iconic 1935 Pilot Majetek.
H. Moser & Cie. Launches Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum
In ancient Greek mythology, Tantalus was given an eternal punishment of hunger and thirst, standing in water where the precious liquid kept moving out of his grasp.
Fast forward a few thousand years and CEO Edouard Meylan has been hard at work with H. Moser & Cie’s tantalising new release, The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum. The precious grey-blue metal is named after the mythical legend himself.
Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum - Source: H.Moser & Cie
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Sure, he may have been a downright liar and served up his son at a banquet. But that’s ancient history! Speaking of which, in 1802, Swedish analytical chemist Gustav Ekeberg discovered tantalum. Around a century later, tantalum was manufactured and placed in metallic wires for use in light bulb filaments. What a bright idea!
But It’s time to feast your eyes on this new timepiece featuring a striking fumé dial and tantalum case. For those looking to buy a watch with added vigour, unique materials and colours within luxury watch circles have exploded recently. From Hublot’s discovery of Saxem to the oh so exotic chalcedony found in the Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier, it has our horological tongues wagging over at Chrono Hunter HQ.
Back in 2006, the Perpetual Calendar 1 went down a treat with timelords and collectors thanks to its elegant design and first rate technical brilliance. Considered their flagship watch by many who wish to buy an H. Moser & Cie, this was their initial timepiece after their relaunch in 2005. It then went on to attain the GPHG award in 2006 for best complication.
Subtle and elegant as a dress watch, normally perpetual calendars strive to include all manner of details onto a tiny dial. Not the Perpetual Calendar 1. The stripped back dial is extremely intuitive, bearing resemblance to a time and date only piece. Founded in 1828, the former Russian company is a relative newbie compared to its Swiss counterparts like Vacheron Constantin.
Source: H.Moser & Cie
Throughout time, they have been known for their QP models in a host of materials, cases and dials. Yet simplicity and quality is at the heart of their ethos. So what’s the motivation behind the new Endeavour Perpetual model? Inspired by Edouard Meylan’s fascination with the metal and a gift of a Haute Horlogerie tantalum watch by his parents he states that;
“Ever since then, I have dreamed of introducing this metal at H. Moser & Cie, in spite of the challenges it poses. It took more than two years of testing before we were able to polish the surfaces of our case, a feat that few have been able to match, with most preferring to sandblast or satin-finish tantalum,” he adds
There’s no turning back time here, watch fiends if you want to buy an H.Moser & Cie. Tantalum is renowned for its extra tough corrosive properties, acid resistance, ductility and radiant finish, shown in its alluring bluish hue. Measuring 42mm, the “Grand Feu” Abyss Blue enamel dial is as minimalist as Agnes Martin’s 1960 White Flower. Although some may find it a tad on the large size as a dress watch.
Utilising four translucent types of distinct blue enamel, the gradient effect is spot on, making it really pop. Baked in no fewer than 12 different stages, the graduating fade from turquoise to an ocean blue. I do like there’s nothing complicated about this piece with no sign of sub-dials or fussy cut-out windows. A big tick for many H,Moser & Cie fans. Featuring a dark grey surrounding case, the hammered like texture is captivating. The brand hallmarks, onion shaped crown and polished leaf hands are all there.
However, it's the dial that will mesmerise many. The gradual dégradé shading from inwards to the outer dial is both complex and dramatic, lending itself to a stunning aquatic aesthetic with incredible depth. This results in numerous shadows and gleans that are captured by the constantly changing light.
On the face of it, you won’t find any dial text nor indices except for slim batons at noon and speech mark squares ones at 6 o’clock. Functionality wise, there is a sharp white on black date window at 3 o’clock but that’s all time peeps.
If you intend to buy a watch with the finest of subtleties this might be it. Yet, blink and you’ll miss the other section of the perpetual calendar, save for a small tapering month hand display situated below the principal hand and hour timekeeping hands. I did say this was subtle! The power reserve marker can be found at 9 o’clock with an identical nanoscopic hand. At 13.1mm thick, enjoy a one week power reserve (168 hours), meaning you won’t need to wind this beauty in a hurry.
Source: H.Moser & Cie
Meanwhile, the hand wound double barrel HMC 800 calibre is a work of extraordinary innovation. Beating 18,000Vph, it was produced for the brand by independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. A former variation of the HMC 800 sitting in the 2021 Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, this timepiece can be set 24 hours a day no matter what time it is. Handy for business travellers or gents on the go.
The hand-finished movement is the epitome of Haute Horlogerie with many gold elements including the escapement wheel. Furthermore, the leap year indicator is on the caseback that will ensure you flip this beauty over more than just once every four years. The grey kudu leather is a nice alternative to traditional calf strap emphasising the watch further. With the ability to wind time forwards and backwards like Doc and Marty McFly without damaging the movement, this could be one of the most sought after perpetual calendar watches in 2023.
Buy an H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel at retail for around £69,000.
Seiko Marks 55 Years of the Vintage Seiko 5 Sports Watch
Did someone say vintage watches? From the Rolex Datejust and Cartier Tank to the racing inspired TAG Heuer F1, the thirst for vintage knows no bounds. Inspired by a new generation of buyers and celebrity allure, Seiko have got in on the retro act with its launch of the Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition.
Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition, Japan Design - Source: Ebay
Marking the 55th anniversary of the reliable Seiko 5 sports watch, there are now four limited-edition timepieces if you would like to buy a Seiko with a focus on vintage. Dating back to 1968 where students conducted sit-ins, protesting about the Vietnam War, the Japanese giant introduced their legendary Seiko 5. A time of rebellion indeed, but Seiko delivered steadfast durability, reliability, vibrant colours and first rate performance.
This encompassed vibrant colours, larger cases and their five main components - a day-date function, automatic movement, water resistance, recessed crown as well as a robust case and bracelet. The “Customise” collection sports designs from Seiko fans as part of their special competition of the same name.
As part of the contest, fans had the opportunity to input their own designs of the legendary Seiko 5 sports watch, incorporating elements from the iconic 1968 timepiece. Compartmentalised into the Americas design, Japan design, European design and the Asian design, the best four were selected to represent their own territory.
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Source: Ebay
Every limited-edition measure 42.5mm, has a 41 hour power reserve and houses the 43R6 calibre. First up, the European edition offers a bold orange dial that all sports watch lovers will dig. Made from Hardlex, the manual winding crown is situated at 4 o’clock. For classic sports watch enthusiasts, the Americas may be up your horological street with its classic looks emanating from the black dial and gold indices.
The all stainless-steel Japan design has a nice silver colour and is perfect for those looking to buy a Seiko with understated looks and an unfussy dial. The Asia design’s case is made from gold-plated stainless steel with a copper accent and red wine bezel for a more ostentatious look. The white indicators and numerals together with the copper like indices and silver accents complete the crowd-pleasing visuals.
Limited to just 1,968 pieces, all four models will be launched this March. Retail prices will start at £270 for the European design up to £340 for the Asia edition. Now be a good sport and contact Chrono Hunter here before they are all gone and to save money on your next purchase!
Longines Releases Aviation Inspired Pilot Majetek
With an unprecedented heritage, Longines has been involved in many significant moments over the course of time. Official timekeeper of Roland Garros up to 2018, they have also been involved in a string of events.
Source: Wikimedia
Whether Alpine skiing or enjoying horse racing partnerships with Royal Ascot, the Prix de Diane Longines or the Kentucky Derby, the brand from Saint Imier never misses a beat. Buy a Longines and you are investing into their aviation ingrained DNA, highlighted by their latest offering - The Longines Majetek reference 3582.
For nearly two centuries, the Swiss brand has had a deep connection with the air. Paying tribute to the Czechoslovak Air Force, this watch takes its inspiration from the same model, released in 1935. What was all the fuss about the original Majetek? Hang on a tick watch fans, let me begin.
This former military watch was commissioned by the Czechoslovak Air Force who demanded a rotating bezel that included a luminous triangular marker. This was so pilots were able to highlight starting times. This was becoming imperative during World War Two, especially in poor visibility. In April 1935, Longines officially registered the 41mm Majetek design at their Bern office.
Etched with the words “Majetek Vojenské Správy” (“Property of the Military Administration”) on the caseback, different variations of calibres were used and distributed to all 1,700 pilots.
1935 Longines Majetek Heritage Model, Source: Horobo
Yet, one of the most iconic calibres was the outstanding 15.26 movement, housed in the original Majetek, taking inspiration from a former pocket-watch hand wound calibre. In addition, the case diameter was large for the period but Longines pressed ahead and gave the Majetek a deserved rebirth. With a nod to the 3582, the 1935 model was revamped in 2014 increasing its size to 42mm complete with fixed bezel.
The latest iteration of the reference 3582 pays respect to former elements like Arabic numerals, lumed hands, triangular marker and cushion shaped curved case. But out with the old and in with the new as they say, and if you buy a Longines for 2023, you’ll benefit from an altered lug shape, crown guards, a 43mm diameter, ideal for larger watch lovers or sport luxe fans. There’s an attractive “1935” commemorative engraving located on the side of the case at 9 o’clock.
Longines Majetek 2023, Source: The Swatch Group
The bezel rotates, allowing for the fully Super-LumiNova triangle to perform a complete 360 revolution, ideal for low-light conditions. Other highlights include rhodium-plated hands which have been given a modern appeal, sapphire glass, 72 hour power reserve, 100m of water resistance and raised 3-D Arabic numerals that lean on Longines groundbreaking flight instruments.
I do rather like the wide fluted bezel and stylish tool watch matt black dial which is visually appealing against the backdrop of the highly legible white Arabic numbers. The exclusive Longines calibre ETA A31.L91-based movement (L893.6) is just another facet of this aviation marvel. Beating at 25,200Vph, it is home to a silicon balance spring. This powerful mechanism stands up to the harshest of military specs with chronometer officially certified and magnetic resistant engraved on the back.
Source: The Swatch Group
On top of this, I think watch fans will admire the recessed seconds counter and impactful minute railway track. Comprising 26 jewels, the short lugs will help it fit seamlessly on the wrist as soon as the double stitched brown or green leather strap option softens. For eco-warriors, there is the choice of a NATO strap in khaki green, made from recycled polyester.
At the time of writing, you can buy a Longines Pilot Majetek reference 3582 for the retail price of around £3,500.
Conclusion
While H.Moser & Cie wow watch fans with their ancestral method of “grand feu”, embellishment and exotic materials, Seiko keep it vintage which is a hot watch trend for 2023.
I am no Mystic Meg, but it appears Longines want to take a horological leap into the premium market with the Majetek. On the surface, they are offering collectors an all-encompassing timepiece brimming with heritage, and timelessness, and a bold revamp on a historical classic with just a soupçon of COSC certification.
Formidable, authentic and quintessentially vintage, you forget for a minute they are part of the Swatch Group. You know, the one with the ever so sought after Moonswatch, considered one of the hottest releases of 2022. The contemporary landscape has been reinvented here that can be seen from every angle of its flawless case
Time is very much ticking watch lovers. Are you looking to buy a Longines or have we tantalised you enough to buy an H.Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum?
Discuss your specific requirements with Chrono Hunter today. Contact us here and speak to one of our experienced team who will be keen to run through the details. With more than 800 five star reviews on Trustpilot, download our app, receive offers in hours from our established luxury watch retailers and buy a watch or sell a watch the smart way!
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Further Reading:
Newswatch: Seiko Unveils The Prospex Speedtimer SRQ045
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