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Question Time: Should You Buy The New Blue-Dial Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel?

At A Glance

Taking inspiration from JLC’s first pocket watch, dating back to 1907, the new Blue-Dial Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel enjoys a beautifully polished case in pink gold and an award winning movement.
Introduced in 2012, this latest edition is an incredibly attractive piece produced by the fairest of hands with a contrasting pattern that has a slight Art Deco feel to it.
Featuring a Grand Feu enamel dial fired up to 800 degrees centigrade and hand-guilloché pattern work with 1,080 lines across the face, this upgrade to the Master Ultra Thin Collection is on an epic scale.
Classy and subtle, there has been a number of different models in this lineup, delivering several complications and sublime métiers d’art dials
With a mesmerising royal blue accent, every one of the 180 so-called “sun-rays” across the face of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel had to undergo half a dozen passages on the rose engine lathe.
Involving master guillocheurs and master enamellers, JLC’s revered 978 tourbillon movement on this new piece is as light as a feather, at less than 0.5 grams.

1. The JLC Master Thin Collection Sets Horological Barometer For Super-Slim Dress Watches

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin lineup represents the epitome of elegance and precision in the world of luxury watchmaking. The Master Ultra Thin watches embody the brand's commitment to combining technical expertise with timeless design.

Reference Q130842J from 2013 with perpetual calendar

One of the defining characteristics of the Master Ultra Thin collection is its emphasis on sleek and sophisticated profiles. These watches are celebrated for their remarkably thin cases and movements, a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre's mastery of horological engineering.

The ultra-thin design not only enhances the aesthetic appeal but contributes to the wearer's comfort, making these timepieces a perfect choice for those who appreciate and looking to buy a discreet and refined dress wristwatch.

The dials of the Master Ultra Thin watches are a study in simplicity and clarity. Jaeger-LeCoultre employs a minimalist approach, focusing on clean lines, well-proportioned hour markers, and slender hands.

The understated elegance of the dials reflects a timeless aesthetic that transcends fleeting trends, ensuring that these watches remain relevant and stylish for years to come.

In addition, materials play a crucial role in the Master Ultra Thin collection, with options ranging from classic stainless steel to luxurious precious metals such as rose gold or white gold.

The careful selection of materials contributes to the overall sophistication of the watches, making them not only precise timekeeping instruments but exquisite accessories. Perfect for those who want to buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre that exudes a sense of refined luxury.

The collection offers a variety of models with different complications to cater to diverse preferences.

From the simplicity of three-hand models to the added functionality of moon phases, perpetual calendars (a must for any holy grail fan), and tourbillons, the Master Ultra Thin range showcases Le Sentier brand’s versatility and status in watchmaking.

Despite the inclusion of various complications, the watches maintain a harmonious balance in design, ensuring that complexity does not compromise nor supersede elegance.

Reference Q1308470 in stainless steel with perpetual calendar and moonphase

The movements within the Master Ultra Thin watches are a testament to the Maison’s technical prowess. Crafted with precision and attention to detail, these movements often feature exquisite finishing, such as Côtes de Genève, perlage, and bevelled edges.

The open case-backs on some models allow enthusiasts to admire the intricate mechanisms within, showcasing the brand's dedication to both form and function.

Setting the horological barometer, we have been fans of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin for some time, standing as a beacon of timeless sophistication and technical excellence.

With its ever so slender profiles that would make many catwalk models envious, meticulous craftsmanship, and a range of complications ensure these watches cater to those who appreciate the finer things in life.

Whether worn for special occasions, swanky soirees or as something to dazzle in the corporate world, the Master Ultra Thin watches embody the enduring legacy of Jaeger-LeCoultre in the world of Haute Horlogerie.

2. Personality Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel

Prepare for your peepers to pop out and for your tongue to lop like Bob Hoskins fawning over Jessica Rabbit in Who Framed Roger Rabbit. Measuring 40mm x 12.13mm thick, this timepiece is that darn good and as seductive as Marilyn Monroe in her heyday.

In fact we have it on good knowledge that Benedict Cumberbatch rocked the original 40mm version mark 1 in an 18 white gold case, limited to just 50 pieces, (reference Q13234E1)

Don’t take your eyes off this or the dial for a second which is where we will begin. How anyone can use a rose engine lathe that’s a century old is beyond anyone’s guess. But JLC pulls this off with aplomb despite these machines being discontinued.

What you will see on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel is artisanal work of the highest calibre. The hand-guilloché pattern flickers with every turn of the wrist that is made up of 180 sun rays emanating from the middle to the edge.

Meanwhile, the date sub-dial with slinky pointer hand in gold located at 12 benefits from this particular technique in a circular snailed design.

To many avid horophiles, this specific is called azurage, enhancing the sunray dial further. The master guillocheur has to possess the highest levels of know-how to work the rose engine lathe meticulously.

In this way, every single ray must be straight as an arrow and arranged perfectly with absolutely no margin for error.

As for the Grand Feu enamel on the dial, this is conducted by the master enameller as part of their Metiers Rares Atelier department, once the guillocheur has done his part. It’s a sort of passing the horological baton as such.

Heated to scorching temperatures of around 800 degrees centigrade, this concept is as red hot as the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel.

As soon as the base layer is created, this process is continually replicated, leading to multiple yet individual layers. And the dial’s underside is not forgotten either thanks to an extra enamel base coat.

This is done in order to ensure the dial does not completely disperse when firing is taking place. As per the Great British Bake Off, no one wants a soggy bottom! So what else is going on that's worthy of a mention?

How about the ultra sleek Dauphine hour and minute hands in gold, the brand logo at 3 o’clock and the piece de resistance at 6 o’clock.

This large window positioned at the bottom of the dial allows us to gaze in awe at the terrific tourbillon cage boasting a pink gold frame and three handed pointer in blue which records the seconds.

Around the delectable dial, there are elongated indices and a golden dotted seconds track that conclude a truly remarkable timepiece. And if you want a truly outstanding experience when you buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chrono Hunter is at hand thanks to our unrivalled brand expertise and multiple offers from the best handpicked luxury retailers, saving you money on your next purchase.

Or enjoy the real deal if you want to sell a Jaeger-LeCoultre. Be assured of a quick turnaround, dedicated customer service and the best prices paid when using our distinctive platform.

Official Specs - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel

Reference	Q13224E1
Crystal Type	Sapphire
Case Diameter	40mm
Case Thickness	12.13mm
Water Resistance	50 metres (5 bar)
Dial Colour	Blue Grand Feu enamel incorporating hand-guilloché
Indices	Applied
Strap Mechanism style	Folding buckle
Strap Buckle colour	Pink gold
Strap Colour	Blue alligator leather
Power Reserve	45 hours
Limited Edition	No

3. JLC Calibre 978

You didn’t know this movement was red carpet worthy did you? Let us explain for a minute. Pulsating away at 4Hz inside the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel beats the heart of a champion.

An international chronometry award from 2009, that is to say… exactly the same year that the JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 978 was first introduced.

Source: Watchbase.com

This bang up to date calibre with more than 270 components is the spearhead behind what’s going on inside the sapphire caseback. With enough history to sink the Titanic, JLC are the trailblazers in tourbillon movements.

Stretching back to 1946 when MENSA was created and the emergence of the Baby Boomer years, the Maison wasn’t crying over spilt milk. Oh no.

They were pioneering a number of different configurations and hairsprings which they manufactured in-house. The former was without doubt an added bonus in terms of craftsmanship and engineering.

Considered the essential tourbillon movement within JLC, a decade on from the launch of the Calibre 978, saw a definitive upgrade in 2019. It has also been used in a wide variety of references enhancing its timekeeping vigour.

Furthermore, the Maison has been responsible for wait for it…more than 1400 movements and more patents than Apple (430 to be precise)

Tipping the scales at less than an astonishing half a gram and turning 360 degrees every minute, the Calibre 978 is home to a titanium cage and a curved hairspring on two levels.

This maintains regular oscillations resulting in top notch precision. Rounded off with an openworked rotor, brimming with polishing and Geneva stripes situated on the bridges, there’s definitely no bump ‘n’ grind going on here.

Official Movement Specs:

Number of Components - 271
Movement type - automatic tourbillon (in-house)
Number of jewels - 33
Height - 6.5mm
Power reserve - 45 hours
Vibrations per hour - 4Hz (28,800)
Functions - hours, minutes, small seconds located on the one-minute tourbillon, date

4. Where Can You Buy A New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel?

In spite of our horological spies, the price has not yet been unveiled. However we predict, (when the time comes!) you can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel for approximately £100,000

5. What’s Our View?

So you have come this far.

And now for the burning timekeeping question of the day. Should you actually buy the new blue dial Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel? There’s only one response to that…yes.

This new novelty has technical skill that puts Lionel Messi to shame. Oh yes and this is despite the diminutive Argentine flexing a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph in 18-carat rose gold when unveiled at Inter Miami.

We simply don’t have enough time to go on about the intricacies, complexity and delicate nature of the work that has gone into this piece.

However, what we can say is the hand-guilloché pattern is a true work of art.

Coupled with the highly respected Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978, matching alligator blue leather strap and high performance precision, technical deftness and impeccable craftsmanship will no doubt last many generations.

6. Best JLC Master Ultra Thin Watches For The Discerning Enthusiast

From entry-level to more expensive watches, take a minute to look at some of our hot Master Ultra Thin picks below.

Model	Retail Price (As Of January 2024)
39mm Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve Stainless Steel - Reference Q1378420	£10,400
39mm Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve Pink Gold - Reference Q137258J	£20,400
39mm Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds Pin Gold - Reference Q1212501 (Set with 60 diamonds)	£26,700
36mm Master Ultra Thin Moon Stainless Steel - Reference Q124842J	£11,200
39mm Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold - Reference Q1302501	£45,900

7. Conclusion

The blue Grand Feu enamel really speaks for itself. A mastery of art and visuals that would put Mondrian in his place, it's not only bold but of course drips in elegance and glamour.

With enough drama oozing from the dial to make 20 series of Succession, we ain't even got to discussing the movement on this literal masterpiece of a watch.

The impressive calibre 978 is cemented in timekeeping folklore which sits majestically on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon.

Expressive, opulent and in keeping with the DNA of what the Maison has delivered down the years, this is a technical tiger that syncs gracefully with immense fortitude and enduring architecture as seen in this particular collection.

In addition, we also like the complimenting interchangeable alligator strap (the buckle is too) in a navy blue hue, it offsets the pink gold case, making the whole piece that extra bit special.

The workmanship of JLC’s Maison’s Métiers Rares™ Atelier truly shows off the pure majesty of this delicately balanced beauty.

There’s nothing to feel blue about here. Whether you understand the difference between a tourbillon and a tachymeter, trust us when we say this is a watch maniacs ultimate fetish with technical mastery that’s levels above.

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Credit Source: Jaeger-LeCoultre

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