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Pink Out Your Watch Collection With Our Top Salmon Dials

You have more chance of catching a salmon in the river than you have to find one in the horological marketplace. At least, that was what the situation was just before the turn of the 1930s. During this period, experimentation was rife such as the Rolex Bubbleback which climbed Mount Everest with Hilary and Tenzing, plus Jaeger Le-Coultre which had just released the Reverso, or to the common man, the first ever sports watch.

But salmon dials really came into their own following the mid-20th century when case designs were less prioritised and the face was given more attention. In this way, a variety of brands like Omega, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe all turned to a salmon dial style. Nowadays, the salmon face is prospering, with many brands releasing them as funky pink reinterpretations of past models or as new launches in an increasingly colourful world. This is by no means a fish out of the water but a watchmaking trend that will no doubt stand the test of time.

Why Are Salmon Dials So Popular?

Salmon dials exploded into popularity initially during the 1930s. And the trend has continued on into the modern era. Take for example Patek Philippe which utilised both platinum and the salmon dial from the 5101 in 2003 to the 5270P in 2018. It seems like salmon dials have had an eternal grasp on the watch world, and we’re all here for it!

In terms of the salmon colour in the industrial world, pink is an effect which is unintentionally caused due to extreme heat or by impurities in gold which results in a pinkish colour. Salmon dials in the watch world are attained through the lacquer and crafted through the detailed process of galvanisation.

Of course, the endpoint as to why salmon dials are so popular is just because we are sentimental creatures! Salmon relates heavily to the past and has an air of retroism which is tough to come across with other colours. Plus it scores highly in the fashion stakes on the wrist for that epic head turning moment.

The colour of salmon dials has drastically changed however, leaving behind the understated salmon dial of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5320OG, instead replacing it with a brighter, more obvious pink shade which is present in other salmon dial watches like the Hublot Big Bang Millennial, Rolex Air-King 114200 and the Cartier Ballon Bleu De Cartier 33mm WSBB0046

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

One of these former salmon dials revamps for the avid watch enthusiast is the highly lauded Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from Swiss stalwart Vacheron Constantin. It seems like VC is on a Back To The Future horological type journey at present with the 3 new retrograde models introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023. Watch out Marty for that flying hoverboard!

Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph - Source - Vacheron Constantin

We first saw this model in 2016, crafted out of platinum then given a pink gold construction in 2017. 2022’s edition of Watches and Wonders saw the salmon dial version launched in all its pink glory. Let’s just say, it's more than an asset to the well respected Traditionelle collection.

Design Features

The face is given the typical complexity expected of a watch from the Traditionelle collection. Made up of three sub counters, they are the 30-minute chronograph totaliser, date, moonphase and a running seconds subdial. All of them are slightly sunk into the watch's face and given a circular graining effect to increase their legibility against the pink dial.

In particular, the moonphase sub counter is given a little extra aesthetic in comparison to the other subdials as it is crafted out of platinum, with engravings of the star and moon present on it. Some of the complications on this watch could be missed at first glance such as the leap year indicator which rests in a small aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock. The day and month apertures are obvious above the central hands.

Even down to the smallest aspects like The Vacheron Constantin emblem, the Maltese cross, it is given alternating polishing and sandblasted effects in order to attain its sublime shine and salmon dial goodness. Don't get this model misconstrued either. The tachymetric scale that circles the periphery of this salmon pink watch is a clear reminder that it has a certain sporty edge to it. We wouldn't recommend you wear it though during your local 5-a side match!

The indices are sharp and the hands are Dauphine, allowing them to taper in a blade like style. As they are all in white gold, they stand out clearly against the uber cool pink face which enhances their legibility. The case is built out of 950 platinum and is sized at 43mm. The lugs are proud and don't narrow out, rather they remain straight, allowing the watch to be the centre of attention on your wrist.

Technical Aspects

The calibre 1142 QP needs some strength to power the complications on the watch. It is built using a column wheel to enhance the chronograph functions and beats at 3Hz which can last you a solid 48 hours. The movement is finished to a high degree, with Geneva stripes present on the bridges and the bevels polished to a mirror like degree. Style this watch with a light brown jacket to keep things dressed down or get your crisp shirt sleeves rolled up to show off the stunning pink face. You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph upon request only.

Breitling B25 Datora 42 Copper

The Breitling Datora collection stems all the way back to the 1940s and offers a more accessible way into the luxury world of salmon dial watches.

Datora 42 Copper - Source - Jomashop

Don't get us wrong, this certainly isn't a cheap option as it's valued at £11,200. But in comparison to watches like the Patek Philippe 5720 which offers a similar face and complications, valued at over £150,000 at retail, you aren't doing too badly watch peeps.

Design Features

Measuring 42mm, the stainless steel case is given a beautifully polished finish from the perspective of the front of the salmon dial. A slight tilt would reveal the level of effect throughout the watch such as the satin brushed elements on the sides of the case and lugs. The tops of the lugs however are bevelled and are given a polished finish, offering a refined gleam to counter the ruggedness of the satin brushed effect. Breitling’s copper dial is given a tinge that is an obvious link to the highly popular salmon dial. It's rich in its colour and isn't too much of a pale tinge, offering a sublime pink shade which is instantly eye-catching. Now, who is for a strawberry milkshake or daiquiri?

The tachymetric scale on the periphery of the pink face links to Breitling’s inherently sporty design. There’s also a minute track which circles just inside of the tachymetric scale which specifically has every 5th minute expanded in size and printed in numerals in order to allow the user to instantly read the watch. While some of the Arabic numerals have been cut out or removed entirely like at 6 o’clock, they are still incredibly legible. The minute track comes in handy here as each of the Arabic numerals corresponds to the 5 minute intervals.

The three sub counters at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock are the elapsed minutes counter, the date and moonphase indicator and the running seconds counter respectively. These sub counters are given a guilloche effect in order to enhance their readability and are slightly sunk into the face to promote their visibility. A day and month aperture is present above the sub counter in a neat and accessible placement.

The hands are constructed like syringes, or SIM card ejector pins to you Gen-Z folks! They are crafted out of stainless steel with a white centre and are highly visible against the pink dial. Need we say they are coated in SuperLuminova? The seconds hand and sub dial hands are blue which matches the moonphase sub dial. Meanwhile, the brown alligator strap is a fine addition to the watch in keeping with the elegant construction of this pink model.

Technical Aspects

The B25 calibre is self-winding and COSC certified, highlighting the level of engineering that's gone into this watch. Pumping horological goodness at 28,800VpH, the model can reach a solid 2 day power reserve and is visible through the exhibition back. All for good reason time peeps! The movement is given Geneva stripes and circular graining effects in order to look spectacular from both the front and back.

We suggest going full geography teacher style with a brown jacket and subtle leather patches if you are going casual. Or dress it up with a cashmere pink jumper if you really want to make a statement. After all, this is not a watch you should hide away. You can buy a Breitling B25 42 Copper at retail for £11,200 - at the time of writing.

Patek Philippe 5172G

Patek Philippe goes for the vintage vibe with the Patek Philippe 5172G.

5172G - Source - Patek Philippe

That's not to say that the model has been lost to the past either. In fact, the model cleverly moulds the brilliance of old school design with extremely innovative technical features and that all important salmon dial. And boy does it not disappoint. Can we call this one the Pink Panther?

Design Features

The timepiece follows the same design codes that have been tried and trusted such as brands like Rolex with their Rolex Perpetual 1908 model. The case is indistinguishably a fabulous dress watch thanks to its circular design and petite build. The twin sub dial style that Patek Philippe adopted here is clever as it keeps the pink dial open and not looking cluttered.

Luxury is abound with this model as it is crafted out of white gold and measures 41mm in size. Since it came after the very slight Ref 5170 which was sized at 39mm, it represents Patek Philippe widening up the timepiece so all the intricacies can be noticed and adored by watch connoisseurs young and old.

The circular watch case is given different layers as seen through the bezel rising above the case. This allows the salmon dial to be the horological centre of attention as it literally rises to meet up through the effect of the slightly smaller bezel. It shows the brave stylistic choices Patek Philippe adopted instead of just a standard round watch. We’re all here for it!

Even down to the pushers and the crown, they are each designed with purpose and style such as the crown being slightly recessed while the pushers stand proudly out. It takes the Ref 1463 to greater heights while expanding on its design by making the pushers just as bulbous, more refined and architecturally coherent as the rest of the watch. The striking pink dial is timeless and the clear Arabic numerals and hands are crafted from gold.

Given anthracite treatment as well as a healthy dose of white luminescence, the model is as clear as the crystal waters of the Caribbean Ocean via the sapphire crystal. Given a sporty edge by way of the tachymetric scale and elegance via the watch's design and construction, the Patek Philippe 5172G is one of the best salmon dial models around!

Technical Features

The CH 29-535 PS calibre is born to be wild!

The exhibition caseback allows for a deep view of the complexities of the movement. With the functions of the instant-change chronograph minutes and minute counter, the amount of parts in the movement is incredible, especially since it's a manual wind movement, meaning you can see it all in action when wound! Boasting 6 patented innovations, it enjoys an optimised toothing profile and self-regulating zero-resetting hammers to ensure the perfect working speed of the complications.

Beating at a considerable 28,800VpH and with a solid 65 hour power reserve, the movement is ready for the rough and tumble of everyday life, especially since it's protected by the Gyromax balance. The dark brown alligator strap would work with a multitude of outfits but we think it wouldn't look any better than slipping out from under a crisp navy shirt.

You can buy a Patek Philippe 5172G at retail for £66,670 - at the time of writing.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial

In the most obscure turn of events, the extremely limited edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial found itself propelled into the worldwide market after it was supposed to be only released in Japan.

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar - Source - Audemars Piguet

Capped at 300 pieces, the world has the chance to get their horological mitts on a piece of Audemars Piguet…with a luscious pink dial. But how does this watch shape up?

Design Features

The design follows the classic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar formula of a pink Grand Tapisserie dial which enhances the background of the model and creates an almost hypnotic effect if you stare for too long. This is coupled with the four sub dials which consist of the month, day, astronomical moon, week and month at 3, 6, 9 and 12 respectively.

While you may have accidentally been duped by the hour minutes and ‘seconds’ hand, the seconds hand actually relates to a point to the week scale which circles the periphery of the salmon dial. Some use tachymetric scales but Audemars Piguet likes to do things a little differently.

When we say Royal Oak, the thought of an octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet flood into our minds. Well, this is also the same timekeeping tale here. Crafted out of the very durable and lightweight titanium, the case and bracelet are tough, and the eight hex screws fit the metallic colour perfectly. Why teach a new dog old horological tricks eh?

The salmon dial is flawless and allows the luminous hands and indices to stand out clearly. The pink subdials are given a circular grained effect which allows them to stand out from the Grand Tapisserie dial. The week scale is given a polished effect so as to not blend in too much with the rest of the pink dial.

Technical Features

The calibre 5134 follows on from the 1967 calibre 2120. Remember, that was and is still the thinnest automatic movement in the world so we are in very safe hands! The model beats at an unorthodox 19,800VpH and rests at a solid 40 hour power reserve. Although not the best energetic movement, it is skeletonised from the back, allowing us to drool over the Côtes de Genève effects on the rotor.

This symbolises how all things really matter on an Audemars Piguet watch. Mind you…It's a slim timepiece at just 9.5mm meaning it can still be worn with the tightest of wrist cuffs. This will easily work with a salmon coloured suit shirt if you are feeling brave or a black jacket to keep as refined as your timepiece.

You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial at retail for £91,100 - at the time of writing.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date

Haven't we already had a Vacheron Constantin?

Patrimony Retrograde - Source - Vacheron Constantin

Yes, we have but for very good reason. Vacheron Constantin is the king of salmon dials and this has never been so present when looking at the majestic Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date in a stunning pink sheen. As per the usual Vacheron Constantin design code, expect some more vintage classicism and a soupcon of heritage with superb pioneering technology.

Design Features

This edition of Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection splits this salmon dial into two segments. The top section is specifically geared towards the date, with the blue printed numerals being organised by a blue hand which points at each date. The moment it reaches 31, the hand jumps back energetically to number one again.

The bottom half of the salmon dial repeats this process but instead it's aimed at days which are spelt out in full. There is a lot of design coherency going on as the blue printed names and numerals match the blue hands. Not only does this help with legibility, but it also distinguishes them from the white gold indices and hands which give the standard reading of the time.

This particular salmon dial is slightly domed which enhances its pink sunburst finish as light reflects differently across it. Luckily for us, the 18K 5N Maltese cross emblem at 12 o'clock matches the colour of the pink dial so there is absolutely no clash of colour. A phrase you’ll hear in horology is ‘mid-century styling’. To those who don't know, that basically relates to periods in time where form follows function such as pilots models being made specifically for pilots. This is very much the case with this timepiece as the function of the date and time is achieved without any excess fanfare.

This salmon dial is reassuringly uncluttered and keeps the functions legible against the marvellous pink dial. Of course, Vacheron Constantin knows how to add their own spin on things. We knew they would. The model is a tad bulky at 42.5mm but rather slim at 9.7mm. Crafted from 950 platinum which has been polished to a mirror like shine. It takes the vintage stylings and bolsters them with luxury materials and a fantastic navy alligator strap, fit for the finest leather jacket.

Technical Features

The 2460 R31R7/3 calibre is well noted amongst collectors and horophiles. Needless to say, it was awarded the Poinçon de Genève due to its remarkable finishes and incredibly decorative aspects. You’ll know all about this if you buy a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony as the brand has emblazoned it on the balance cock. Bravo.

Running at a strong 28,800VpH and with a modest 40 hour power reserve, the movement powers retrograde hand-type day of the week and date as well as a stop seconds device. Consider pairing this with a suede navy jacket to give your casual dress some classy appeal or get formal with a black or off-grey suit to boost the salmon dial.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date at retail upon request.

Tudor Royal Salmon Dial

New for 2023, available in 28mm, 34mm, 38mm and 41mm, the sizing choices on the new Tudor Royal lineup are unparalleled. Nonetheless, the salmon dials are without doubt unprecedented due to the rich pink sheen it has.

Tudor Royal - Source - Tudor

Design Features

The face is given a sun-ray burst which beautifully enhances the salmon dial. The case and the bracelet is crafted out of stainless steel and boasts a delicious pink satin like finish.

Released during Watches and Wonders 2023, Tudor released this model in salmon and a dark chocolate brown that was too good to eat but the salmon dial on this watch is truly sublime. It's a phenomenal hue that looks even better on the 28mm gem-set indices edition. Needless to say, the Roman numerals on the larger versions look just as sublime against the salmon dials face. Tudor’s timepieces could easily be regarded as luxury sports models due to their sleek yet ready to rumble designs. Yet Tudor made the decision to give the watches 100 metres of water resistance on top of the additional specs. Talk about more bang for your buck.

Technical Features

The calibre changes for each size but is easily quantified as:

28mm version - T201 calibre
34mm/38mm versions - T601 calibre
41mm - T603 calibre

Don’t be alarmed, Timelords. All of these calibres are COSC certified and bring with them a high degree of quality and a power reserve of 38 hours. We suggest pairing this model with a cream linen shirt if you want to look relaxed or formalise it by wearing a white polo shirt for those casual Fridays in the office or drinks on your private yacht.

You can buy a Tudor Royal Salmon Dial at retail for £1930 upwards to £2,060 as dependant on the model - at the time of writing.

Conclusion

Are you all pinked out? Simply put, we cannot get enough of the stuff. Suffice it to say, salmon dials are still very much the in thing with avid horophiles and connoisseurs worldwide. They are not as uncommon as they once were, but still rare enough to be admired and instantly noticed when worn on the wrist. It takes guts to choose a salmon dial for both the manufacturer and the consumer as the pink accent is very unorthodox but coveted.

There are other salmon dial faces you could peruse such as The Omega De Ville Prestige with its beautiful salmon sun-ray dial valued at £5,300. Alternatively, how about the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon which is crafted out of 18K white gold and utilises their patented stop-seconds mechanism. Gentlemen, time is almost up but salmon dials are here to stay. And with the current trend of colour taking over the watchmaking universe, things will get even more vibrant…and of course pink!

Feeling a crushing urge to get your hands on a salmon dial watch? Want to feel pretty in pink? Been influenced enough to buy a Patek Philippe 5172G? Investing in watches has never been easier with Chrono Hunter. Simply put, we are your number source if you want to buy a watch or sell a watch. Our peerless service and 900-plus 5 star reviews on Trustpilot mean we understand time like no other.

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