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Pink Out Your Watch Collection With Our Top Salmon Dials

UPDATED AUGUST 2024

You have more chance of catching a salmon in the river than you have finding one in the horological marketplace. At least, that was what the situation was just before the turn of the 1930s.

During this period, experimentation was rife such as the Rolex Bubbleback which climbed Mount Everest with Hilary and Tenzing, plus Jaeger Le-Coultre which had just released the Reverso, or to the common man, the first ever sports watch.

But salmon dials really came into their own following the mid-20th century where case designs were less prioritised and the face was given more attention. In this way, a variety of brands like Omega, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe all turned to a salmon dial style.

Nowadays, the salmon face is prospering, with many brands releasing them as funky pink reinterpretations of past models or as new launches in an increasingly colourful world. This is by no means a fish out of water but a watchmaking trend that will no doubt stand the test of time.

Why Are Salmon Dials So Popular?

Salmon dials exploded into popularity initially during the 1930s. And the trend has continued on into the modern era. Take for example Patek Philippe which utilised both platinum and the salmon dial from the 5101 in 2003 to the 5270P in 2018. It seems like salmon dials have had an eternal grasp on the watch world, and we’re all here for it!

In terms of the salmon colour in the industrial world, pink is an effect which is unintentionally caused due to extreme heat or by impurities in gold which results in a pinkish colour. Salmon dials in the watch world are attained through lacquer and crafted through the detailed process of galvanisation.

Of course, the end point as to why salmon dials are so popular is just because we are sentimental creatures! Salmon relates heavily to the past and has an air of retroism which is tough to come across with other colours. Plus it scores highly in the fashion stakes on the wrist for that epic head turning moment.

The colour of salmon dials has drastically changed however, leaving behind the understated salmon dial of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5320OG, instead replacing it with a brighter, more obvious pink shade which is present in other salmon dial watches like the Hublot Big Bang Millennial, Rolex Air-King 114200 and the Cartier Ballon Bleu De Cartier 33mm WSBB0046

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

One of these former salmon dials revamps for the avid watch enthusiast is the highly lauded Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from Swiss stalwart Vacheron Constantin. It seems like VC is on a Back To The Future horological type journey at present with the 3 new retrograde models introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023. Watch out Marty for that flying hoverboard!

Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph - Source - Vacheron Constantin

We first saw this model in 2016, crafted out of platinum then given a pink gold construction in 2017. 2022’s edition of Watches and Wonders saw the salmon dial version launched in all its pink glory. Let’s just say, it's more than an asset to the well respected Traditionelle collection.

Design Features

The face is given the typical complexity expected of a watch from the Traditionelle collection. Made up of three sub counters, they are the 30-minute chronograph totaliser, date, moonphase and a running seconds subdial. All of them are slightly sunk into the watch's face and given a circular graining effect to increase their legibility against the pink dial.

In particular, the moonphase sub counter is given a little extra aesthetic in comparison to the other subdials as it is crafted out of platinum, with engravings of the star and moon present on it. Some of the complications on this watch could be missed at first glance such as the leap year indicator which rests in a small aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock. The day and month apertures are obvious above the central hands.

Even down to the smallest aspects like The Vacheron Constantin emblem, the Maltese cross, it is given alternating polishing and sandblasted effects in order to attain its sublime shine and salmon dial goodness. Don't get this model misconstrued either.

The tachymetric scale that circles the periphery of this salmon pink watch is a clear reminder that it has a certain sporty edge to it. We wouldn't recommend you wear it though during your local 5-a side match!

The indices are sharp and the hands are Dauphine, allowing them to taper in a blade like style. As they are all in white gold, they stand out clearly against the uber cool pink face which enhances their legibility. The case is built out of 950 platinum and is sized at 43mm. The lugs are proud and don't narrow out, rather they remain straight, allowing the watch to be the centre of attention on your wrist.

Technical Aspects

The calibre 1142 QP needs some strength to power the complications on the watch. It is built using a column wheel to enhance the chronograph functions and beats at 3Hz which can last you a solid 48 hours.

The movement is finished to a high degree, with Geneva stripes present on the bridges and the bevels polished to a mirror like degree. Style this watch with a light brown jacket to keep things dressed down or get your crisp shirt sleeves rolled up to show off the stunning pink face.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph upon request only as of August 2024.

Breitling B25 Datora 42 Copper

The Breitling Datora collection stems all the way back to the 1940s and offers a more accessible way into the luxury world of salmon dial watches.

Datora 42 Copper - Source - Jomashop

Don't get us wrong, this certainly isn't a cheap option as it's valued at £11,200. But in comparison to watches like the Patek Philippe 5720 which offers a similar face and complications, valued at over £150,000 at retail, you aren't doing too badly watch peeps.

Design Features

Measuring 42mm, the stainless steel case is given a beautifully polished finish from the perspective of the front of the salmon dial. A slight tilt would reveal the level of effect throughout the watch such as the satin brushed elements on the sides of the case and lugs.

The tops of the lugs however are bevelled and are given a polished finish, offering a refined gleam to counter the ruggedness of the satin brushed effect. Breitling’s copper dial is given a tinge that is an obvious link to the highly popular salmon dial.

It's rich in its colour and isn't too much of a pale tinge, offering a sublime pink shade which is instantly eye-catching. Now, who is for a strawberry milkshake or daiquiri?

The tachymetric scale on the periphery of the pink face links to Breitling’s inherently sporty design. There’s also a minute track which circles just inside of the tachymetric scale which specifically has every 5th minute expanded in size and printed in numerals in order to allow the user to instantly read the watch.

While some of the Arabic numerals have been cut out or removed entirely like at 6 o’clock, they are still incredibly legible. The minute track comes in handy here as each of the Arabic numerals corresponds to the 5 minute intervals.

The three sub counters at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock are the elapsed minutes counter, the date and moonphase indicator and the running seconds counter respectively. These sub counters are given a guilloche effect in order to enhance their readability and are slightly sunk into the face to promote their visibility. A day and month aperture is present above the sub counter in a neat and accessible placement.

The hands are constructed like syringes, or SIM card ejector pins to you Gen-Z folks! They are crafted out of stainless steel with a white centre and are highly visible against the pink dial. Need we say they are coated in SuperLuminova? The seconds hand and sub dial hands are blue which matches the moonphase sub dial.

Meanwhile, the brown alligator strap is a fine addition to the watch in keeping with the elegant construction of this pink model.

Technical Aspects

The B25 calibre is self-winding and COSC certified, highlighting the level of engineering that's gone into this watch. Pumping horological goodness at 28,800VpH, the model can reach a solid 2 day power reserve and is visible through the exhibition back. All for good reason time peeps! The movement is given Geneva stripes and circular graining effects in order to look spectacular from both the front and back.

We suggest going full geography teacher style with a brown jacket and subtle leather patches if you are going casual. Or dress it up with a cashmere pink jumper if you really want to make a statement. After all, this is not a watch you should hide away.

ou can buy a Breitling B25 42 Copper at retail for £11,550 as of August 2024.

Patek Philippe 5172G

Patek Philippe goes for the vintage vibe with the Patek Philippe 5172G.

5172G - Source - Patek Philippe

That's not to say that the model has been lost to the past either. In fact, the model cleverly moulds the brilliance of old school design with extremely innovative technical features and that all important salmon dial. And boy does it not disappoint. Can we call this one the Pink Panther?

Design Features

The timepiece follows the same design codes that have been tried and trusted such as brands like Rolex with their Rolex Perpetual 1908 model. The case is indistinguishably a fabulous dress watch thanks to its circular design and petite build. The twin sub dial style that Patek Philippe adopted here is clever as it keeps the pink dial open and not looking cluttered.

Luxury is abound with this model as it is crafted out of white gold and measures 41mm in size. Since it came after the very slight Ref 5170 which was sized at 39mm, it represents Patek Philippe widening up the timepiece so all the intricacies can be noticed and adored by watch connoisseurs young and old.

The circular watch case is given different layers as seen through the bezel rising above the case. This allows the salmon dial to be the horological centre of attention as it literally rises to meet up through the effect of the slightly smaller bezel. It shows the brave stylistic choices Patek Philippe adopted instead of just a standard round watch. We’re all here for it!

Even down to the pushers and the crown, they are each designed with purpose and style such as the crown being slightly recessed while the pushers stand proudly out. It takes the Ref 1463 to greater heights while expanding on its design by making the pushers just as bulbous, more refined and architecturally coherent as the rest of the watch. The striking pink dial is timeless and the clear Arabic numerals and hands are crafted from gold.

Given anthracite treatment as well as a healthy dose of white luminescence, the model is as clear as the crystal waters of the Caribbean Ocean via the sapphire crystal. Given a sporty edge by way of the tachymetric scale and elegance via the watch's design and construction, the Patek Philippe 5172G is one of the best salmon dial models around!

Technical Features

The CH 29-535 PS calibre is born to be wild!

The exhibition caseback allows for a deep view of the complexities of the movement.

With the functions of the instant-change chronograph minutes and minute counter, the amount of parts in the movement is incredible, especially since it's a manual wind movement, meaning you can see it all in action when wound! Boasting 6 patented innovations, it enjoys an optimised toothing profile and self-regulating zero-resetting hammers to ensure the perfect working speed of the complications.

Beating at a considerable 28,800VpH and with a solid 65 hour power reserve, the movement is ready for the rough and tumble of everyday life, especially since it's protected by the Gyromax balance. The dark brown alligator strap would work with a multitude of outfits but we think it wouldn't look any better than slipping out from under a crisp navy shirt.

You can buy a Patek Philippe 5172G at retail for £71,350 as of August 2024.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial

In the most obscure turn of events, the extremely limited edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial found itself propelled into the worldwide market after it was supposed to be only released in Japan.

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar - Source - Audemars Piguet

Capped at 300 pieces, the world has the chance to get their horological mitts on a piece of Audemars Piguet…with a luscious pink dial. But how does this watch shape up?

Design Features

The design follows the classic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar formula of a pink Grand Tapisserie dial which enhances the background of the model and creates an almost hypnotic effect if you stare for too long. This is coupled with the four sub dials which consist of the month, day, astronomical moon, week and month at 3, 6, 9 and 12 respectively.

While you may have accidentally been duped by the hour minutes and ‘seconds’ hand, the seconds hand actually relates to a point to the week scale which circles the periphery of the salmon dial. Some use tachymetric scales but Audemars Piguet likes to do things a little differently.

When we say Royal Oak, the thought of an octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet flood into our minds. Well, this is also the same timekeeping tale here. Crafted out of the very durable and lightweight titanium, the case and bracelet are tough, and the eight hex screws fit the metallic colour perfectly. Why teach a new dog old horological tricks eh?

The salmon dial is flawless and allows the luminous hands and indices to stand out clearly. The pink subdials are given a circular grained effect which allows them to stand out from the Grand Tapisserie dial. The week scale is given a polished effect so as to not blend in too much with the rest of the pink dial.

Technical Features

The calibre 5134 follows on from the 1967 calibre 2120. Remember, that was and is still the thinnest automatic movement in the world so we are in very safe hands! The model beats at an unorthodox 19,800VpH and rests at a solid 40 hour power reserve. Although not the best energetic movement, it is skeletonised from the back, allowing us to drool over the Côtes de Genève effects on the rotor.

This symbolises how all things really matter on an Audemars Piguet watch. Mind you…It's a slim timepiece at just 9.5mm meaning it can still be worn with the tightest of wrist cuffs. This will easily work with a salmon coloured suit shirt if you are feeling brave or a black jacket to keep as refined as your timepiece.

You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial at retail when you request a price as of August 2024

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date

Haven't we already had a Vacheron Constantin?

Patrimony Retrograde - Source - Vacheron Constantin

Yes, we have but for very good reason. Vacheron Constantin is the king of salmon dials and this has never been so present when looking at the majestic Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date in a stunning pink sheen. As per the usual Vacheron Constantin design code, expect some more vintage classicism and a soupcon of heritage with superb pioneering technology.

Design Features

This edition of Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection splits this salmon dial into two segments. The top section is specifically geared towards the date, with the blue printed numerals being organised by a blue hand which points at each date. The moment it reaches 31, the hand jumps back energetically to number one again.

The bottom half of the salmon dial repeats this process but instead it's aimed at days which are spelt out in full. There is a lot of design coherency going on as the blue printed names and numerals match the blue hands. Not only does this help with legibility, but it also distinguishes them from the white gold indices and hands which give the standard reading of the time.

This particular salmon dial is slightly domed which enhances its pink sunburst finish as light reflects differently across it. Luckily for us, the 18K 5N Maltese cross emblem at 12 o'clock matches the colour of the pink dial so there is absolutely no clash of colour. A phrase you’ll hear in horology is ‘mid-century styling’.

To those who don't know, that basically relates to periods in time where form follows function such as pilots models being made specifically for pilots. This is very much the case with this timepiece as the function of the date and time is achieved without any excess fanfare.

This salmon dial is reassuringly uncluttered and keeps the functions legible against the marvellous pink dial. Of course, Vacheron Constantin knows how to add their own spin on things. We knew they would. The model is a tad bulky at 42.5mm but rather slim at 9.7mm.

Crafted from 950 platinum which has been polished to a mirror like shine. It takes the vintage stylings and bolsters them with luxury materials and a fantastic navy alligator strap, fit for the finest leather jacket.

Technical Features

The 2460 R31R7/3 calibre is well noted amongst collectors and horophiles. Needless to say, it was awarded the Poinçon de Genève due to its remarkable finishes and incredibly decorative aspects. You’ll know all about this if you buy a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony as the brand has emblazoned it on the balance cock. Bravo.

Running at a strong 28,800VpH and with a modest 40 hour power reserve, the movement powers retrograde hand-type day of the week and date as well as a stop seconds device. Consider pairing this with a suede navy jacket to give your casual dress some classy appeal or get formal with a black or off-grey suit to boost the salmon dial.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date at retail for £59,500 as of August 2024.

Tudor Royal Salmon Dial

New for 2023, available in 28mm, 34mm, 38mm and 41mm, the sizing choices on the new Tudor Royal lineup are unparalleled. Nonetheless, the salmon dials are without doubt unprecedented due to the rich pink sheen it has.

Tudor Royal - Source - Tudor

Design Features

The face is given a sun-ray burst which beautifully enhances the salmon dial. The case and the bracelet is crafted out of stainless steel and boasts a delicious pink satin like finish.

Released during Watches and Wonders 2023, Tudor released this model in salmon and a dark chocolate brown that was too good to eat but the salmon dial on this watch is truly sublime. It's a phenomenal hue that looks even better on the 28mm gem-set indices edition. Needless to say, the Roman numerals on the larger versions look just as sublime against the salmon dials face.

Tudor’s timepieces could easily be regarded as luxury sports models due to their sleek yet ready to rumble designs. Yet Tudor made the decision to give the watches 100 metres of water resistance on top of the additional specs. Talk about more bang for your buck.

Technical Features

The calibre changes for each size but is easily quantified as:

28mm version - T201 calibre
34mm/38mm versions - T601 calibre
41mm - T603 calibre

Don’t be alarmed, Timelords. All of these calibres are COSC certified and bring with them a high degree of quality and a power reserve of 38 hours. We suggest pairing this model with a cream linen shirt if you want to look relaxed or formalise it by wearing a white polo shirt for those casual Fridays in the office or drinks on your private yacht.

You can buy a Tudor Royal Salmon Dial at retail for £2,020 as of August 2024.

Patek Philippe 5236P

Our next best salmon dial takes us in the direction of the Stern Family. All aboard for the Patek Philippe 5236P, which was updated in April 2024. This is a fresh perspective on the previous 2021 Perpetual Calendar reference 5236P.

What do we mean? While the previous piece came in a deep blue shade, the latest 5236P seeks to breathe a sharp colourful scheme on the reference, while retaining the classic in-line display and moon-phase indicator.

Design Features

This latest iteration comes in a case diameter of 41.3mm with a thickness of 11.07mm. We feel this is a perfect size for the gentleman looking to buy one of the best salmon dial watches that can be worn in the boardroom, dressed down with a black leather jacket, or a family gathering at that new hot bistro.

Source - Patek Philippe

However, what makes this beauty really sparkle like a glitzy Oscars ceremony is the 950 platinum material. This precious metal is exceptionally rare in the horological industry due to its rarity and high grade. Furthermore, the material is thoroughly polished across the bezel, lugs and case sides, resulting in a stunning finish across the board.

However, its 30-metre water resistance is not great… But we recommend that you save this for the more special occasions in your life.

As for the dial, here, Patek Philippe opts for a stunning brass-based salmon shade. There are no funky finishes or aesthetics, just lashing of pure pink goodness for busy office execs or those seeking to be ultimate flexors.

Patek Philippe knows that the best kind of finish is those that are sharp and refined! Therefore, its matte aesthetic allows the faceted, white gold applied baton style hour markers and blackened hands to clearly stand out.

Around the edge of the dial is a railroad track that allows users to closely measure the minutes between each hour marker. In terms of complications, Patek Philippe treats us to a conjoined running seconds counter and moon-phase indicator, residing at 6 o’clock. On either side, you will find a leap year indicator on the right, alongside a day and night indicator on the left.

Below 12 o’clock is the iconic in-line perpetual calendar display that runs from the day, date and month apertures in a cohesive line which is as smooth as silk. But, what powers all of these complications, Timelords?

Technical Features

Ticking along at a great speed of knots is the stunning 31-260 PS QL. Made up of 503 components, the movement offers a swift 28,800VpH, 48 hour power reserve and all wrapped up in a tidy Patek Philippe seal signifying it has passed the official gold star Genevan standards.

Visible through the sapphire caseback, bear witness to the glamorous Geneva stripes and engravings, adding the overall visual architecture. If there was ever a picture to define salmon dials in the dictionary, you bet your bottom dollar there would be an image of Thierry Stern next to it.

You can buy a Patek Philippe 5236P at retail for £121,000 as of August 2024.

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon

If you only have two pairs of shoes, one suit and a lifestyle that is almost completely stripped back modern maximalism, we recommend that you cast your eyes on this next best salmon dial…the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon.

Design Features

Following on from the genius Streamliner line, originally released in 2020, the collection comes in the classic cushion shaping with an integrated bracelet design. For this latest model, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon offers a refreshing taste of what H. Moser & Cie can offer in 2024.

Source - H. Moser & Cie

At 42.3mm x 11mm, the watches are unconventionally quite big for H. Moser & Cie, but it does so deliberately to let the dial act as the centre-piece. Crafted out of steel, it reveals a thoroughly polished and brushed aesthetic across the case sides and bezel, offering a luxury sports-chic aesthetic.

This is further enhanced by the 120 metres of water resistance, making them perfect pool wearers, or flexed as a stunning dress watch, fit for any gala, ball or Emmys after party. The ergonomic design by integrating the bracelet into the case makes this a fabulous piece for the savvy enthusiast.

Down to the dial, users may be a little shocked at just how stripped back H. Moser & Cie have made this piece! The salmon fumé shade gives a rich pink centre to a “smoked” periphery through a graduated effect, rounded off with great aplomb via a vertical brushed finish.

There are no hour markers, just syringe style hands, a large date aperture at 4 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 10 o’clock and a central red and white hand that covers the months. Given globolight inserts, this offers optimal legibility in all conditions.

Technical Features

Flip over the timepiece to reveal the sapphire caseback which exposes the HMC 812 calibre, allowing users to witness an integrated leap-year function. The movement on this salmon dial watch also offers an 18,000VpH together with an astonishing 168 hour power reserve.

Vacation ready this certainly is. Utilising a patented modular interchangeable escapement and Straumann hairspring, the movements offer phenomenal longevity and quality.

You can buy a H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar at retail for around £45,800 as of August 2024. Interestingly, this is a special edition piece that is only available for 12 months so once the clock strikes the 21st of February 2025, this beauty is off the market!

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Salmon Dial

Chopard are very well versed in producing the dressiest models in the industry. From the Alpine Eagle to the extremely luxurious Imperiale lines, perhaps their most desirable and attractive line is the L.U.C collection. And with it, we feel it is one of the best salmon dial watches, worthy of mention.

Design Features

At Watches and Wonders 2023, Chopard demonstrated their skill in the salmon dial world in the form of the L.U.C 1860, complete with guilloche finish. For January 2024, the Maison cast a look back at their desirable dial shade, and have brought it back out into the marketplace for us hungry horophiles to lust after!

Source - Chopard

As per the elegant background of the L.U.C line, since its initial release in 1996 and its emblematic circular design, the watches tight 36.5mm x 8.2mm case size is oh so snappy on the wrist, allowing them to be adorned under shirt cuffs. It’s like being wrapped up in a smoky dream only this time it’s definitely real.

Crafted out of Lucent steel, this is Chopard’s very own material. It is a recycled steel alloy that is melded into a fresh material through smelting and including other high-quality steel from the aerospace and automotive industries. Given a fabulous polished aesthetic across the lugs and bezel, the pieces are highly desirable due to their spectacular finish.

On the dial, users are treated to a sublime salmon dial with a number of aesthetics. This includes a hand-guilloché medallion in the centre and under 12 o’clock, there is a complementary cartouche with Chopard logo. The satin-brushed chapter ring works well with the tapered white gold hour markers and snailed small seconds counter at 6 o’clock.

Technical Features

Running within the steel case is the L.U.C 96.40-L calibre. COSC certified, the sapphire caseback exposes a 22k gold rotor and the 3.30mm thick movement in all its glory. This includes the 4Hz beat and weekend-proof 65 hour power reserve.

You can buy a Chopard L.U.C 1860 salmon dial at retail for £22,700 as of August 2024.

Longines Master Small Seconds

Back in 2023, Longines decided to celebrate 190 years of their Swiss supremacy by releasing a fantastic play on the Master Small Seconds, meriting their place as one of the best salmon dial watches.

Design Features

Released in 2005, the Master line is incredibly desirable due to the inherent smartness of the watches, alongside the timeless design of the circular case. In 2023, Longines came back with a fabulous Master Small Seconds to revitalise the line.

Source - Longines

Sized at 38.5mm x 10.2mm, the watches are decidedly smaller than the original models that came in at 41mm. Crafted out of steel, take a look at the polishing across the board, including the bezel and lugs. Complimented with a black leather strap, looking horologically adept for the office has never been so easy with this on!

Sure, the 30 metre water resistance isn’t quite up to scratch when compared to Bell and Ross Hydromax (11,000m) or Rolex Sea-Dweller’s 3,900 metres. But you couldn’t pull that dive watch off on a business trip like this specific Longines.

Beneath the sapphire crystal is a salmon dial that offers a rich pink shade just waiting to be explored. Legibility will not be a problem here as Longines opt for high-contrast engraved Breguet numerals alongside leaf-shaped hands. But what makes them pop is the vertical brushing and the opposing sunray finish on the flange.

Between the grey hands and markers, there is an equally grey minute style railroad track that makes up the flange on the edge of the dial. They also add a little complexity thanks to the form of a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock.

Technical Features

Powering the general timekeeping and small seconds counter, it is fitted with the L893.5 calibre. Providing a 25,200VpH with a 72 hour power reserve and a silicon hairspring to oppose magnetism, that’s quite a bit to factor in for less than £5,000.

You can buy a Longines Master Small Seconds at retail for £2,350 as of August 2024.

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 310.20.42.50.99.001

While this formally comes under the title of Sedna gold, this beautiful pink shade can easily pass as salmon. Back in June 2024, Omega decided to titillate us horophiles with a pair of two-tone Speedys that offered the luxury of precious metals, but with the hybrid affordability (and high level attractiveness) of steel.

Design Features

Yes, Speedy Tuesdays are a thing, but as far as Speedmasters go, this beauty does not break any norms or violate any sacred Speedmaster grounds. The classic 42mm x 13.2mm dimensions are complemented with the classic lyre lugs and asymmetrical case that has made the line so formidable throughout time in all its iterations and forms.

Plus they don’t need to put fancy strawberries or flowers on the second hand to enrich their desirable profile like the ahem Moonswatch series. What you see is what you get.

Source - Omega

Using both steel and sedna gold, the steel lugs are polished while the steel case sides are brushed. For the Sedna material, this is expertly polished across the bezel edge, crown and pushers. The combination is stark, but not intrusive to the sensitive horophile's eyes. This is only a mere sliver of what makes it one of the best salmon dial watches.

Along the top, you will find a sedna gold bezel with Ceragold tachymetric scale that clearly stands out from the black ceramic material. This is an iconic Speedy feature, and certain to get the pulses of those lunar loving horophiles racing as much as TAG Heuer Carrera Date!

Onto the dial and users are fitted with a stepped aesthetic that means the periphery is lower than the centre of the dial. Given a sedna gold, salmon shade, this sunburst aesthetic allows light to be cast throughout the piece with consummate ease.

On top of this, it lets the polished baton and hands be promoted, especially since they have strips of Super-Luminova running through their centre. Between the hour markers is a minute track that allows users to closely measure time which is excellent for those men about town.

There is a triple chronograph sub-dial design that comes in high contrast black shades with Sedna gold numbers and hands that stand out from the black background. Rich in legacy, this is a salmon dial with some attitude, backed up as one of the best luxury watch brands, supporting its mastery.

Technical Features

Within the timepieces beats the 3861 calibre. This Master Chronometer certified movement provides users with a 21,600VpH, 50 hour power reserve and their famous Co-Axial escapement, entitling the watches to a high level of accuracy.

You can buy an Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch at retail for £17,100 as of August 2024.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

If complex watches could be summarised into one timepiece, we are sure that most of the horological world could look to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon as their flagship timepiece.

Design Features

Released at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre leads on from the legendary Duometre calibre, released back in 2007. It is made up of a dual wing system that powers functions like the complications, the escapement and the timekeeping. It powers them separately, and allows there to still be a strong power reserve.

Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre

Coming in a platinum case, the case diameter is 42.5mm while the thickness is a touch over 14mm (14.2mm to be exact). While this could pose a problem for the slender wristed folks out there, if you can pull this off, you will definitely catch the eyes of your CEO, as you flaunt the best salmon dial watch belonging to Jaeger’s luxury portfolio.

Given a stunning brushed and polished finish, this model takes its inspiration from classic savonette cases that made up the original Jaeger-LeCoultre pocket watches. With just 50 metres of water resistance, this is without a shadow of a doubt, a watch to flex with your colleagues and friends. It’s a real talking point at a dinner party of clinching that big deal in the boardroom.

Fitted with a convex sapphire crystal, this salmon dial has many different elements. Totalling three subdials, users can read the general timekeeping at 9 o’clock, chronograph functionality at 3 o’clock and a conjoined moon-phase with day/night indicator at 9 o’clock.

At 6 o’clock, we are treated to a jumping seconds display that offers a phenomenal 1/6th of a second accuracy. For the remaining two hands in the centre of the dial, these refer to general timekeeping and chronograph functions.

Technical Features

Housing the Calibre 391, there is 1/6th of a second accuracy alongside the famous twin wing design, providing a twin power reserve with 50 hours on each barrel. All we can say is lock and load for some expert timekeeping.

You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon at retail upon requesting a price as of August 2024.

IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Salmon Dial

Design Features

The IWC Portugieser was produced by the request of two Portuguese merchants back in the 1930s, named Rodrigues and Antonio Teixeria. They were looking for a large wristwatch that could still be just as precise as a pocket watch. This was a feat that IWC achieved under the title, Portugieser.

Source - IWC

For this IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Salmon Dial, the pieces total 40.4mm x 12.4mm which isn’t too invasive on your wrist, but is still significant enough to be classified as a statement piece. Its 30 metres of water resistance isn’t great, but we reckon you’ll be keeping this to the boardroom and that hot-spot in town.

Crafted out of steel, the watches feature a polished finish across the bezel and the tops of the lugs. However, there is a brushed finish on the case sides, linking to the sportiness of the models. The bezel is kept razor thin, and creates the perfect frame for the salmon dial.

Across the top is a sapphire crystal that offers a magnified effect of the face. Promoting the polished Arabic numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Timekeeping on this IWC piece is kept completely legible and offers optimal visibility. On the periphery is a railroad minute track that allows for precision timekeeping.

At 6 o’clock is a small seconds counter that offers an extra level of complexity to the pieces. This stands out well from the sunray brushed finish across the dial, particularly because the small seconds counter has matte finish.

Technical Features

Within the watches is the very hardy Calibre 82200. This in-house movement is fitted with 31 jewels and provides a solid accuracy of 28,800Vph, alongside a very reliable 60 hour power reserve.

You can buy an IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Salmon Dial at retail for £6,500 as of August 2024.

Omega De Ville Prestige 41mm

Design Features

The Omega De Ville Prestige line is perhaps one of the brand's most dressy and desirable lines due to it's effortless style. Originally released in 1994, the watches have reached their 3rd generation. However, there are no brotherly disputes here. We’re all keen supporters of this line!

Source - Omega

For this edition, Omega have gone for the decidedly loud salmon dial, but revealed it in a way that doesn’t compromise the elegant integrity of the De Ville line.

Totalling 41mm x 10.8mm, the watches are crafted out of steel. Now, this isn’t the most exciting material, but Omega ensures to give it some extra pzazz with a polished bezel and lugs. These finishes ensure the watches fall under the dress watch category, especially since they are so well rendered.

Of course, the biggest theme of the Omega De Ville Prestige is the beautiful salmon dial. Displayed on a domed dial, they undergo a sun-brushed finish, allowing the striking PVD grey hands and hour markers to be clearly contrasted.

The Roman numeral markers are interjected by cabochon indexes. These alternating features are extremely desirable as they poignantly stand against the conventional one hour marker design.

The watches don’t stop there. You can also receive a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock with a date aperture below, and a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. All of these rest quite comfortably within the railway minute track on the dial's periphery.

Technical Features

What makes the watches so reliable is the Master Chronometer certified 8810 calibre. This movement is viewable through the exhibition caseback, and offers a 55 hour power reserve, 15,000 gauss protection and 3.5Hz frequency.

You can buy an Omega De Ville Prestige 41mm at retail for £5,400 as of August 2024.

Patek Philippe 5320G Perpetual Calendar

Design Features

The Patek Philippe 5320G Perpetual Calendar was originally released at Watches and Wonders 2022. How time flies…

Source - Patek Philippe

Taking inspiration from the classic 2017 reference, the 5320 has been around for a while, and has been stealing horophiles' hearts left, right and centre. Maybe nothing can quite compare to this 5320G Perpetual Calendar and its fabulous salmon dial.

But, first there are a number of important design codes to analyse. Sized at 40mm x 11.13mm, the white gold watches are extremely luxurious and yield an exceptionally high value upon resale due to its precious metal associations.

The stepped case features sharp lines deciphering each segment, but undergoes thorough polishing across all aspects from the bezel to the lugs. Entirely hand-finished, the watches are arguably the most exciting timepieces of the brands portfolio due to the craftsmen dedication to excellence.

For the dial, Patek Philippe chose the very attractive salmon dial. However, Patek Philippe opted for the more pretentious “Rose gold opaline” title. To the common man, this is still very much a proud member of the salmon variety!

Time is read via the Arabic numerals, given black edging and clear luminova centres. They are topped with luminescent spots to further enhance their legibility. This works in conjunction with the syringe shaped hands that have luminescent centres.

As per the Grand Complication title, the watches offer a moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock with an integrated date, alongside a day and month indicator below 12 o’clock. Between 4 and 5 o’clock is a functional date indicator that coincides with the apertures below 12 o’clock, and a day and night indicator symmetrical to it between 7 and 8 o’clock.

Technical Features

But what makes this grand complication timepiece reliable and steady? Well, it’s the high-powered 26-330 S Q of course! This is fitted with a Gyromax and a Spiromax balance spring to offer that valuable 28,800VpH and 45 hour power reserve.

You can buy a Patek Philippe 5320G Perpetual Calendar at retail for £84,070 at retail as of August 2024.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

Design Features

The Lange 1, upon its release in 1994, was the perfect addition to the returning A. Lange & Söhne. Today, the Lange 1 is made up of a number of features and functions, but a few key design codes remain, including an off-centre large dial and a circular case.

Source - A. Lange & Söhne

However, this Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar does away with the tired monochrome dial colours, and goes electric with a fabulous salmon shade.

Coming in at 41.9mm x 12.1mm, the white gold watches are extremely luxurious and offer endless style points for those looking for a luxurious salmon dial watch. Featuring polishing and brushing across the bezel and the lugs, the circular watches are inherently very dressy and stylish.

For the dial, it comes in a rich pink texture, but with no eccentric embellishments or finishes. It’s matte finish may seem a little plain-Jane, but it’s a perfect backdrop for the stunning complications to take control.

It’s not just one or two either. We see a timeless large date aperture made up of two windows at 11 o’clock, a moon-phase indicator with integrated small seconds at 7 o’clock, and a large dial at 3 o’clock with timeless Roman numerals and interjecting diamond numerals.

At 6 o’clock is a leap year indicator that also acts as an arrow to point to the correct month on the periphery of the dial. This completes the perpetual calendar! Don’t forget, there is also a very intuitive retrograde day of week indicator at 9 o’clock.

Technical Features

Take a breather. What makes all of these features run so accurately? The L021.3 calibre is a 621 part movement, providing a steady 21,600VpH alongside a 50 hour power reserve. Viewable through the sapphire caseback, you can view the 63 jewels and the gold chatons screwed in.

You can buy a A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar at retail when you request a price as of August 2024.

Conclusion

Are you all pinked out? Simply put, we cannot get enough of the stuff. Suffice to say, salmon dials are still very much the in thing with avid horophiles and connoisseurs worldwide. They are not as uncommon as they once were, but still rare enough to be admired and instantly noticed when worn on the wrist.

It takes guts to choose a salmon dial for both the manufacturer and the consumer as the pink accent is very unorthodox but coveted.

There are other choices we could have highlighted as the best salmon dials such as the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon which is crafted out of 18K white gold and utilises their patented stop-seconds mechanism. Gentlemen, time is almost up but salmon dials are very much here to stay.

And with the current trend of colour taking over the watchmaking universe, things will get even more vibrant…and of course pink!

Feeling a crushing urge to get your hands on a salmon dial watch? Want to feel pretty in pink? Been influenced enough to buy a Patek Philippe 5172G? Investing in watches has never been easier with Chrono Hunter. Simply put, we are your number source if you want to buy a watch or sell a watch. Our peerless service and 900-plus 5 star reviews on Trustpilot means we understand time like no other.

Our expert team can walk you through the entire process from start to finish. It makes sense to save money on your next watch purchase or kick back and enjoy the most competitive offers thanks to our dedicated app and handpicked selection of the finest luxury watch retailers. There has never been a better time to contact us.

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