All IWC Drops At Watches & Wonders 2024 - Portugieser Eternal Calendar, Hand-Wound Tourbillon
From a watch that's supposedly accurate for 45 million years (you read that correct!) and a range of new dials that get the modern horophile sweating profusely, Chrono Hunter has endeavoured to report the details behind the best IWC drops at Watches and Wonders 2024.
In today's article, we’ll be covering the Maison’s latest releases like the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, Portugieser Automatic 42mm and the IWC Perpetual Calendar 44mm among other wondrous novelties.
For Watches and Wonders last year, they had a riveting display of top IWC timepieces. In particular was there spectacular IWC Ingenieur which boasted Gerald Genta influenced styles with a modernised twist. We’re talking fresh dials, new colours and even a beautiful titanium model!
Without any more preambles or gushing over the brilliant Schaffhausen pieces, let’s get into the best IWCwatches at Watches and Wonders 2024.
Let’s start the clock.
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
|
Dial colour |
White |
|
Case material |
Platinum case |
|
Bezel type |
Polished |
|
Chronograph functionality |
No |
|
Strap type |
Black leather strap |
|
Limited Edition |
No |
|
Thickness |
15mm |
|
Functionality |
Perpetual calendar, leap year, perpetual moon-phase, small hacking seconds, |
Watches and Wonders 2024 was already off to a pretty sharp start. We’d seen H.Moser & Cie produce a gorgeous Streamliner tourbillon that's skeletonised while Grand Seiko looked to their very own GS Studio Shizukuishi for inspiration with their Evolution 9 Birch Bark SBGW003. And of course who could forget Rolex dropping a spanking new platinum dial on their latest dress watch, the 1908.
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IW505701
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Released on the first day of Watches and Wonders 2024, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar models sought to reinvent the horological wheel and produce something that once again pushed the boundaries
So, they have long surpassed the title of being an entry-level luxury brand, and are now brushing shoulders with the most technically advanced brands in horology.
But first… What are the dimensions and stats of the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar released during Watches and Wonders 2024? If you’ve kept up with the timekeeping Joneses, you’ll know the illustrious IWC Portugieser models are known for being bulbous and an out and out dress watch since its release back in 1939.
Requested by two Portuguese merchants, Rodrigues and Antonio Teixeira, the line formed a path for the bigger pieces that would eventually capture our hearts.
This latest watch at Watches and Wonders 2024 remains bulky. At 44.4mm of platinum, with a thickness of 15mm, the Eternal Calendar simply cannot be hidden out of sight. Some say it’s more of an ornament than a watch. We say, like the Franck Muller Crazy Hours, anything goes in watchmaking.
Even down to the dial, watch designer Kurt Klaus has his timekeeping DNA all over it. We’re referring to his genius perpetual calendar innovation which results in three subdials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, plus a devilishly handsome moon-phase indicator at 12 o’clock. James Bond may get jealous…
Fitted with a sizable four-window date aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock, the alterations here are conducted via the crown. Good job it’s pretty thick and has a clean, ridged edge for optimum grip! However, there’s more to the tale with the moon-phase and the calendar functionality.
Everyone hates inaccuracy, so IWC released a perpetual calendar that needs no interference for 400 years. Maybe just a little bit out of your lifespan!
The moon-phase is the real show-stopper this time round at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s estimated that its celestial body reaches 45 million years. By then, it will only be out of sync by one day. If the world is still spinning by then and not in a climate catastrophe, give your great (times many million) grandkids something to remember you by.
As the world's first eternal calendar watch, the timepieces have tapped into their decades of experience in perpetual calendar timepieces. It’s movement can capably jump over leap years and allow users to not need to touch the timepiece at all.
The dial is jam-packed, but still legible. The Arabic hour markers are very visible, alongside the polished, leaf shaped hands. Powered by the Calibre 52460, this movement can be viewed through the sapphire caseback.
Kitted out with an alligator leather black Santoni strap, the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar provides an impressive 7 day power reserve aside a 28,800VpH frequency.
- You can buy an IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar at retail for around £125,000 as of April 2024.
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40
|
Dial colour |
|
|
Case material |
|
|
Bezel type |
Polished |
|
Chronograph functionality |
No |
|
Strap type |
|
|
Limited Edition |
No |
|
Thickness |
12.4mm |
|
Functionality |
Small seconds |
This won’t be the last time you hear about the epic Portugieser lineup. Heck if John Krasinski (specifically the IW371606) and funnyman Sacha Baron Cohen can rock one, you know you are in esteemed company.
The Portugieser Automatic 40mm is a “small” variation of the line, but is still a mighty piece to adorn on your wrist.
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IW358401
Sleek and elegant, For Watches and Wonders 2024, there are two circular variations that you can choose from. One such piece is an 18K pink gold number which is sized at exactly 40.4mm and has a 12.4mm thickness.
For the other IWC Portugieser Automatic 40mm, we are presented with a beautiful execution which is crafted out of 18K white gold, matching the same dimensions as the yellow gold watch.
Both of these classic dress watches utilise a domed sapphire crystal for optimal legibility to the dial. It’s a direct reference to the legendary 325 reference that was released back in 1939. Who said the Schaffenhausen brand doesn't love a healthy dose of history…especially at an event like Watches and Wonders 2024?
For the pink gold version, these timepieces combine a black dial and leather strap to give a moody, regal effect to the watches. We are not sure if it's King Charles III’s style (he much prefers Parmigiani Fleurier), this ain’t isn’t your ordinary black hue. This “Obsidian'' shade is sun-ray finished to catch the light and cast it across its entire face.
Furthermore, note the rich gold Arabic numerals and hands for optimal contrast and to continue the seamless designs of the piece. Residing at 6 o’clock is a slightly recessed small seconds sub-counter that furthers the complexity of the Automatic 40 while boosting first rate accuracy.
These design themes continue, utilising a Horizon Blue shade that has a sunray finish. The cool vibrant colours match the white gold case and provide a refreshing take on the darker watch. Everything else remains the same, including the small seconds counter and Arabic numerals.
Powered by the 82200 calibre, this automatic movement is made in-house by IWC and utilises the famed Pellaton winding system. With a weekend-proof 60 hour power reserve and a reliable beat of 28,800VpH, we think you should flex this at only the most prestigious of special occasions. You’ve missed Watches and Wonders 2024, but maybe the next one?
You can buy an IWC Portugieser Automatic 40mm at retail as of April 2024 for:
- IW358402 (White Gold) - £17,000
- IW35804 (Pink Gold) - £16,000
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42mm
|
Dial colour |
|
|
Case material |
|
|
Bezel type |
|
|
Chronograph functionality |
|
|
Strap type |
|
|
Limited Edition |
No |
|
Thickness |
13mm |
|
Functionality |
Small seconds, power reserve indicator, date aperture |
The IWC Portugieser Automatic 42mm adds some more weight to the previous 40mm lineup. But it does so with a soupçon of grace and with a few added elements that entices horophiles into the world of larger dialled watches.
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IW501701
Measuring 42.4mm in diameter, they veer toward the bigger wrist. Mind you, we still like the Portugieser Automatic 42 has an acceptable 12.9mm height. This means the watches aren't excessively weighty and could slip under a shirt cuff with consummate ease.
Available in 6 different variations, the materials range from stainless steel to white and 18K 5N pink gold. Admittedly, the precious metal on the new Portugieser Automatic 42mm are eye-catchers, especially the pink gold model which looks effortlessly luxurious and fit for any Oscars themed event..
White gold is quite misleading due to its similar stainless steel look. Nonetheless, they are all polished expertly throughout. Stainless steel is a great option for those looking for a more financially viable option to the new Portugieser Automatic 42mm party.
Away from the classic dressy design that's as circular as the Nardò Ring race track, the dials of the Portugieser Automatic 42mm come in a range of styles. After all, variety is the spice of life and that’s certainly the case for the brand’s new releases at Watches and Wonders 2024.
Available in obsidian black for the pink gold version, horizon blue for the white gold watch are shades like silver, navy blue and a sandy beige for the stainless steel pieces, the sun-ray finish casts light extremely well.
The hour markers are Arabic numerals which either correlate with the material of the case, or add a different layer of style like the stainless steel IW501701 which has yellow gold hour markers and hands. Be it London Fashion Week or The Emmys, this new model is more than red carpet ready.
There are two sub-counters at 9 and 3 o’clock which relate to a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock. Keep an eye out for the date aperture which sits at 6 o’clock.
Pulsing away within the Portugieser Automatic 42mm is the Calibre 50211 which enjoys a 28,800VpH frequency and a phenomenal 7 day power reserve. This is akin to The Panerai Luminor Marina which totals the same longevity.
- As of April 2024, you can buy an IWC Automatic Portugieser 42mm at retail for:
- IW501701 (stainless steel White Dial) - £11,500
- IW51702 (stainless steel White Dial) - £11,500
- IW501704 (stainless steel Navy Dial) - £12,500
- IW501708 (White Gold) - £23,500
- IW501705 (stainless steel Beige Dial) - £11,500
- IW501707 (pink Gold) - £22,500
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
|
Dial colour |
|
|
Case material |
|
|
Bezel type |
Polished |
|
Chronograph functionality |
No |
|
Strap type |
|
|
Limited Edition |
No |
|
Thickness |
14.9mm |
|
Functionality |
Perpetual calendar, moon-phase |
If you are considering levelling up, then how about the new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44mm.
This is the next step up in the IWC Portugieser program of varying case sizes. We’ve gone from 40mm to the almost absurd Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44mm case, size really does matter! Before you denounce the piece as too oversized (but not quite the 50mm Rolex Deepsea Challenge), think of the kit that this horological beast carries on its back…
Want to upscale your collection with a fire-breathing beauty? Check out our guide to the best dragon inspired watches to mark Chinese New Year.
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IW503701
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44mm comes in a variety of materials, but all of them are precious metals. For example, it goes from white gold to IWC’s patented 18K Armour gold material. This is much harder than traditional 5N yellow gold while still retaining the fabulous lustre.
Totalling four different variants, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44mm range from the 18K Armour gold watches incorporating white or black dials to the white gold models which have beige and horizon blue shades. The main design codes though remain as consistent as the interest behind the Rolex Daytona.
Arabic numerals are thoroughly polished and clearly legible throughout, while the 14.9mm thickness on the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44mm is built up to accommodate four sub counters and a year aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock.
The perpetual calendar, developed by legendary designer Kurt Klaus, total subdials which relate to a date aperture at 3 o’clock with a power reserve inner ring, month counter at 6 o’clock which features a year indicator, and a weekday subdial at 9 o’clock. The latter showcases the running seconds inside.
At 12 o’clock on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44mm is a dual moon-phase sub counter which is the sum total of two white moons. While all of these on one dial may appear disconcerting and perhaps a little intimidating to fresh-faced horophiles, the watches are all navigated via the crown for simplicity.
Within the 52616 calibre, you can be assured of a regular 28,800VpH and a solid 7 day power reserve which is competently split between two barrels.
- As of April 2024. you can buy an IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 for;
- IW503701 (Armour Gold - White Dial) - £41,000
- IW503703 (White Gold - Blue Dial) - £42,000
- IW503704 (White Gold - Beige Dial) - £42,000
- IW503702 (Armour Gold - Black Dial) - £41,000
IWC Portugieser Chronograph
|
Dial colour |
|
|
Case material |
|
|
Bezel type |
Smooth |
|
Chronograph functionality |
Yes |
|
Strap type |
|
|
Limited Edition |
No |
|
Thickness |
13.1mm |
|
Functionality |
Chronograph, small seconds |
The IWC Portugieser Chronograph offers a reverse sub-dial style to the IWC Portugieser Automatic 42mm which made its official debut at Watches and Wonders 2024.
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IW371626
Sized at 41mm x 13 mm thick, these new watches are available in stainless steel, 18K gold and white gold. With 30 metres of water resistance, there are a range of materials to choose from to suit a range of outfits and personalities. This allows the user to decide between opulent luxury of an accessible material in stainless steel.
The dials are available in three shades which are beige, black and light blue. Showcasing Arabic numerals across the face, the watches match the same colour as the leaf shaped hands. For example, the stainless steel model features gold numerals and hands.
At 12 and 6 o’clock are two chronograph sub-counters which enhance the accurate reading of your watches. This is powered by the chronograph 69355 calibre which is an automatic, self-winding movement that’s made in-house by IWC.
Offering a 46 hour power reserve alongside a hardy 28,800VpH, the 205 component chronograph movement is finished expertly with Côtes de Genève. We don’t know that just by looking at the website. You can view it yourself through the glorious sapphire exhibition caseback!
As of April 2024, you can buy an IWC Portugieser Chronograph at retail for:
- IW371626 (White Gold Blue Dial) - £17,500
- IW371624 (stainless steel Beige Dial) - £7,600
- IW371625 (Armour Gold Black Dial) - £16,700
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night
|
Dial colour |
Black dial |
|
Case material |
Pink/Armour gold |
|
Bezel type |
Smooth |
|
Chronograph functionality |
No |
|
Strap type |
Black leather strap |
|
Limited Edition |
No |
|
Thickness |
10.8mm |
|
Functionality |
Flying tourbillon, day and night indicator, stop seconds |
Obsidian black and 18K Armour gold has never looked so fabulous on the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night. As we’ve mentioned, Armour gold is IWC’s patented variant on gold which is both incredibly durable and produces a fabulous lustre, especially when it's been polished so thoroughly.
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IW545901
Coming in at 42.4mm of armour gold, the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night watches are the perfect blend of not being too small or overly large on the wrist. Its 10.8mm thickness is also nothing to be sniffed at, especially since it can easily be worn whether you’re in the office or trekking from cocktail bar to Michelin starred restaurant.
At Watches and Wonders 2024, the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is a godsend for those looking to buy the perfect melange of unbridled horology inside a luxurious case with IWC’s patented, Armour gold casing.
Capable of withstanding 60 metres of water resistance, it may not lay a glove on specialised dive watches like the Tudor Pelagos or Rolex Submariner. But it’s enough to cope with washing your hands and light sprinkles.
The Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is given a pitch black obsidian dial, this is attained through lacquer which allows the golden leaf shaped hands and Arabic hour markers to clearly stand out.
Fitted with a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, this skeletonised complication in the dial is not only a desirable style aesthetic, but offers unparalleled accuracy by negating the effects of gravity.
Everyone likes a day and night indicator. After all, you don’t know whether you’ll be busting moves at a black tie affair in Berlin, or catching up with business associates on the other side of the globe.
You can find this at 9 o’clock on the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night. The 24-hour day and night indicator features a rotating sphere which utilises a dark or a light side to clearly differentiate between the daytime and night time. You won’t need to do a single thing as it automatically rotates every 24 hours on its axis.
If you cast your widened eyes to the back of this Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night, you’ll reveal a sapphire caseback. This exposes the 81925 calibre which has a hardy 84 hour power reserve and skips away at 28,800VpH. Protected by Diamond Shell technology, this runs over the escape wheel and movement to ensure premium longevity.
- You can buy an IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night at retail for £66,500 as of April 2024.
Conclusion
IWC have come to Watches and Wonders 2024 with the same gusto as they have produced in previous years. With their latest conveyor belt of tasty offerings, they have ensured to make their watches as complicated and horologically inspirational as possible.
Oh yes, they haven’t forgotten their forefathers either like Kurt Klaus who has his face virtually stamped on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar.
For example, the genius Portugieser Eternal Calendar seeks to provide a level of accuracy that havent been seen anywhere else. Need we mention the 45 million year accuracy of the moon-phase or the 400 year precision of the calendar functionality?
How could we forget to mention the stunning Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night which utilises a fresh play on the day and night complication in an Armour gold casing.
It could be argued that the standout piece from IWC this year is the fabulous Portugieser Eternal Calendar which broke ground due to its incredibly long lasting moon-phase and calendar functionality.
IWC have fallen out of the Top 10 Swiss watch brands and reside at 11th. We don’t want to put the fear in, but their sales record has dropped by 13% which may get some consumers nervous about their future. With these latest releases, we think the future is looking up!
So, with IWC still riding the crest of a wave on producing some of the most talked about timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2024, who should you seek out in order to try and bag yourself one of these magnificent new watches? Well, Chrono Hunter may be the answer to your timekeeping prayers.
Hope springs eternal as they say…
Can’t wait any longer to buy an IWC? Looking to revolutionise the world with an equally influential watch? Leave your concerns behind and opt for a unique platform like Chrono Hunter instead to address your buying and selling needs.
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All images (unless otherwise stated) belong to IWC
Further Reading:
Form And Technik: Genta-inspired IWC Ingenieur Back With A Bang At Watches And Wonders 2023
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