Gerald Genta And His Most Influential Luxury Watch Designs Of All Time
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Gerald Genta And His Most Influential Luxury Watch Designs Of All Time

Gerald Genta And His Most Influential Luxury Watch Designs Of All Time


Gerald Genta is one of those gents you probably wouldn’t look twice at while out and about. David Bowie had one dilated pupil, Einstein had his nutty hair-do and Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson has biceps which could crush a mortal man’s head. Gerald Genta though had a pretty neat moustache…just your average guy you might think but with one hell of a horological talent.

In fact, A Collected Man succinctly characterised the man in their Gérald Genta: Beyond The Royal Oak And Nautilus article, stating “his creativity and eye for beauty never ceased”. Chrono Hunter cannot agree more as our article will further showcase!

Through his incredible ingenuity and innovations which have continuously transcended the horological universe, we are not speaking about Joe Bloggs. Far from it, Timelords. We are talking about Gerald Genta, a man who single handedly altered the wonderful world of watches. 

Gerald Genta’s reputation as one of the best in the business has resulted in clients like King Hassan II of Morocco, King Fahd of Saudi Arabia and even Queen Elizabeth. The Gerald Genta Heritage was founded in his name in 2019 as an ode to his contribution to the watch industry. It seeks to help young talent… which is pretty damn awesome!

And for that, we are eternally grateful. 

Without getting too laudatory so early on, please join us as we run through the history of this incredible man and his most influential luxury watch designs of all time. 


The History Of Gerald Genta


Gerald Genta was born in 1931 in the land of horology, Switzerland. Home to the Beast from Le Brassus Audemars Piguet, timekeeping giants Rolex and the almost 200 year old Patek Philippe.  


Gerald Genta - Source - The New York Times


The career of Gerald Genta began in the 1950s, wherein he designed watches at Universal Geneve and remained there until the 1960s. As well as releasing designs for watches at Universal Geneve, Gerald Genta worked with Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Omega and Cartier to release an array of fabulous timepieces which have stood the test of time. Don’t fret, we’ll get onto them very soon!


As many great men do, Gerald Genta sought to carve his own path, creating “Gerald Genta” in 1969 as an eponymous watch brand. The watch brand prided itself on exclusivity due to Genta working for a small number of clients. Unfortunately, its independence was cut short in 2000 when Bulgari acquired the watch brand and manufactured watches under Gerald Genta’s influential name. In 2023, La Fabrique du Temps permanently took over Gerald Genta. 

When the watch brand was acquired in 2000, Gerald Genta released “Gerald Charles” which would be sold to investors in 2003. He played a more active role in this business, as the Designer-In-Chief. 


Upon his passing in 2011, the world mourned the disappearance of a watchmaking genius. At 80 years old, Gerald Genta had the equivalent influence on the horological world as Lionel Messi does on the football pitch. In an interview conducted in 2009, Gerald Genta claimed that he had created over an astonishing 100,000 watches in his lifetime. How time flies. 

We’ll save you your sanity by not running through all these undoubtedly delightful watches. Instead, we will be going through some of Gerald Genta’s most influential luxury watch designs.


Omega Constellation Watch


History of The Omega Constellation Watch 


First up is The Omega Constellation Watch, taking its roots from Omega’s 100th anniversary, way back in 1948. 

Omega Constellation - Source - Omega 

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This is an interesting timepiece, as you may not have actually heard of it before. Not to fear, we won't chastise you for not being in the know. That’s where Chrono Hunter comes in. The timepiece wasn’t originally designed by Gerald Genta nor in fact named the “Constellation” watch. 

Named the “Centenary Constellation” watch as an ode to the 100th anniversary of Omega, it was released as a limited edition timepiece and due to its increasingly popular status in the horological universe, Omega decided to keep this watch running. 

It would be updated with an automatic chronometer and given the name Constellation in 1952. The Constellation saw revamps like curved lugs and beautifully rounded dial faces which were fondly named “Pie-Pan”, accompanied by Dauphine style hands and stubby diamond indices. This update reached the heady heights of the Centenary collection, spurring Omega to keep pushing forwards with innovating the collection. 


What else could they do? Who else could they turn to? Enter, Gerald Genta. 


Gerald Genta’s Influence


Gerald Genta stepped into the production process during the ‘60s. 



Omega Constellation

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Progress was quickly made as he introduced the highly innovative C-case design. What the heck is a C-case when it is at home I hear you say? The lugs became integrated, the Pie-Pan dial was altered to be smoother, the short indices were given length and the Dauphine hands straightened out to become elegant sticks. Even the abrupt curvature of the case was exchanged for tonneau shaping, relating to the seamlessness of the integrated bracelet and more open dial face. 

The impact Gerald Genta had on this specific timepiece was questionable. After all, freelance designers didn't really get credited but it is generally accepted and understood that Gerald Genta was the main man behind the C-case. 


The Omega Constellation Watch Today


Still unsure about whether or not you should buy an Omega Constellation?


Eddie Redmayne - Source - Omega

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The Constellation collection is still in effect today. Admittedly it’s been overshadowed by some of the watch brand’s most famous designs like the Omega Seamaster or the Speedmaster but watches are still being produced. Plus ambassador Eddie Redmayne has his hands on the Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm in a beautiful steel and gold construction. 

The design has mostly changed since alterations made by Gerald Genta. The hands have now returned to their original Dauphine construction and the indices follow the same tapered designs as the original Centenary collection. The lugs are still integrated however and the dial face is smooth in its sheen. 


Top Three Omega Constellation Watches 


Omega Constellation 14381


It’s time to get a little old school. 


Omega 14381 - Source - Bonhams

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Created around the 1960’s when Lulu was serenading us with Boom Bang A Bang, the “Pie-Pan” dial construction was dancing to its own merry tune. You can see its full effect here. Complemented with Dauphine hands and given the classic star emblem, the timepiece measures 34mm and represents the original Omega Constellation.


Unfortunately, you can no longer buy an Omega Constellation 14381 at retail due to it being discontinued. However, you can buy it on the secondary market for around £2000…at the time of writing. 


Omega Constellation


Crafted out of stainless steel and featuring a ceramic bezel, the watch features Roman Numerals on the bezel in ”Grand Feu” enamel. Omega’s on fire you could say.


Omega - Source - Omega 

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The classic star emblem is situated above the date aperture at 6 o’clock. The lugs are integrated, but the hands are Dauphine and the indices taper from near the periphery to the centre of the dial. Chronometer certified and given a blue theme from the bezel, hands and indices, the timepiece is a far cry from Gerald Genta’s alterations. 


You can buy an Omega Constellation at retail for £6,500. 


Omega Constellation Globemaster


We’ve seen the past, we’ve seen the present…Now, why not go for both?


Omega Globemaster - Omega

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The Globemaster was the first ever Master Chronometer, signifying the importance of this collection. It’s named the “Globemaster” because there was an issue with exporting the “Constellation” to the USA due to its name. Typical bureaucracy.  

Anyway, The Omega Constellation Globemaster is crafted with a stainless steel case and features the timeless Constellation star which is rhodium plated. How’s this for a throwback? The dial features the traditional “Pie-Pan” styling of the original 1952 Constellation timepiece. 

In layman's terms, it's a Master Chronometer, meaning its Chronometer certified twice over and offers the signature “Pie-Pan” dial styling, offering a vintage allure. It is given the modern strength of 316L stainless steel and a tough sapphire crystal. Anything else?


You can buy an Omega Constellation Globemaster at retail for £6,900…at the time of writing.


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak


History of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak


Allow us to set the scene watch fiends.



Royal Oak - Source - Audemars Piguet

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It's the early 1970s. The horological world is in complete turmoil. Swiss watch companies are falling from 1,600 to 600 and employment in these industries fell dramatically from 90,000 to 28,000. 

Like a terrible outbreak of “you know what from 2020,” The Quartz Crisis is bringing the big boys to their horological knees and smaller companies to the brink of bankruptcy. Talking about being on the brink, check out how Franck Muller was declared bankrupt here.


CEO’s and financial accountants from Audemars Piguet are nervously scratching their heads (probably) trying to think of a solution. Please enter for the second time…you guessed it...Gerald Genta. 


Gerald Genta And His Influence On Luxury Watches


In 1971, Audemars Piguet employed the help of well renowned designer, Gerald Genta. At this point, Genta was a big name in the industry after his works on the Omega Constellation, Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse and for Universal Geneve. 

Upon a frantic phone call from Georges Golay, managing director of Audemars Piguet at the time regarding the Italian markets expecting an “unprecedented steel watch”, Gerald Genta pulled out a rabbit out of his extensive horological hat. The next morning, The Royal Oak was invented (on the back of a napkin!!). All within the space of 24 hours, Gerald Genta had designed one of the most iconic watches on the eve of the Basel (later Baselworld) festival. 

This would represent the start of luxury sports watches and the zenith in the career of Gerald Genta. Inspiration came from divers helmets which is evident via the octagonal bezel and subsequent eight hexagonal screws. The timepiece featured an integrated steel bracelet which was an incredibly difficult task to do at the time.  

The influence of the divers helmet meant that the name had to marry up to the theme. Genta scoured through his mind and eventually came up with the name pertaining to a series of eight vessels from Britain's Royal Navy which simultaneously took their title from a hollowed tree which King Charles II hid in to avoid the Roundheads known as The Royal Oak.


More articles on King Charles III and luxury watches worn by the Royals on Chrono Hunter;


Along came 1972 and the impending Basel Fair. The AP Royal Oak was released to a sea of cheers and champagne bottles firing open. Or did it? In fact, it was welcomed with controversy. What is this bold design with visible screws and octagonal bezel? How can it be Haute Horlogerie while using steel? It would take a while but people eventually cottoned on, The Le Brassus manufacturers now had their flagship watch in all its octagonal glory at the forefront of its name. 


The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Today


The designs of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection haven’t changed one iota. Not one. The octagonal bezel still sharply etches its way around the dial and is secured in place with 8 hexagonal screws, ensuring the timelessness, simplicity and highest quality of the watch. The dial still showcases the same exceptional Tapisserie dial effect which has become emblematic of this collection. 


The main changes come in the form of the materials and design codes. Steel is no longer the sole ambassador of the collection as ceramic and precious metals have been introduced. The dials on some watches have undergone skeletonisation, enhancing the timepiece and relating to the avant garde nature of the watch collection. 


Take a look at the Royal Oak Grande Complication 26605CE.OO.1248CE.01 which combines both black ceramic casing with a beautiful open worked dial. 


We wouldn't expect anything else. After all, stagnation is failure!


Top Three Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches


Gerald Genta’s AP Royal Oak 5402


Let’s be honest. This simply had to be on the list.


Royal Oak - Source - Sotheby’s

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The Gerald Genta inspired Royal Oak dates back to 1978 with the reference 5402. As the first watch from the legendary Royal Oak collection, it was the only type of Royal Oak released during 1972 to 1976 in the steely case and Tapisserie dial styling. 

It epitomises the classic Royal Oak allure and is deemed by some as the ultimate luxury sports watch. Gerald Genta’s version came with a modification in the form of a yellow gold bezel. As the only 5402 with a gold bezel, the watch is timeless and represents the true genius of Genta.


You can no longer buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 at retail due to it being discontinued. However, It sold on the secondary market in a Sotheby’s auction for just under £2 million. 


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar


It’s only fair that we show you devoted time peeps the great strides Audemars Piguet has performed in its Royal Oak collection.  

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar - Source - Audemars Piguet 

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The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar deviates from its previous brethren through its breathtaking colour scheme. This edition takes no prisoners with its deep sea blue case, bracelet and dial. Representing the first time a watch has been crafted entirely from blue ceramic, the watch pushes the boundaries of Haute Horlogerie, just as Gerald Genta would've wanted. Plus it looks great when paired with an equally blue suit shirt to look seamlessly stylish, or take it a step down with a black tee and jeans to let the timepiece do the talking. 


Featuring an astronomical movement and perpetual calendar, the design is given four sub dials in a similar blue sheen to keep with the enigmatic style of the timepiece. You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar upon request. 


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin “50th Anniversary”


How about a classic Royal Oak tribute watch to whet the appetite?


Royal Oak 50th Anniversary  - Source - Audemars Piguet

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Paying homage to 50 years of the original 5402 from 1972, the “Jumbo” was released in a classic steel hand finished case, complete with “Petite Tapisserie” dial. Complemented with an integrated bracelet and the classic octagonal bezel and visible screws, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” is the ultimate ode to the Royal Oak. 

The calibre 7121 enjoys a solid 52 hour power reserve with a powerful beat of 28,800VpH. The dial is exceptionally clean aside from a non-intrusive date aperture at 3 o’clock. 


You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary” at retail upon request.


Patek Philippe Nautilus 


History Of The Patek Philippe Nautilus


Dolled up just like our buddies over at Audemars Piguet, The Royal Oak and The Patek Philippe Nautilus have a few similarities that are certainly not too dissimilar.


Nautilus - Source - Patek Philippe

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Upon recognising the exceptional success of the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe wanted a taste of the action too. Patek Philippe’s aims had to be geared towards maintaining their storied past but with a new influx of zest like no one had seen before. 


Excuse me, Gerald Genta. We need you again!


Gerald Genta’s Influence


Patek Philippe got Gerald Genta to work on creating a watch which could meet their very high specifications. 


Gerald Genta Nautilus

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Gerald Genta got his idea while surveying people from Patek chowing down on their overpriced meals. He asked the waiter for some paper and a pencil drew the basic outlines of what would be the Patek Philippe Nautilus. And what a tasty treat this has been, served up to enthusiasts and collectors for the best part of 47 years since its introduction in 1976.  

The design influence came from a porthole which is regularly found on ships. The casing would be monobloc and solid on the caseback. Using the classical octagonal bezel with four screws, the bezel design is given softer curves in order to give the appearance of a circle, clearly differentiating from the Royal Oak 

The dial would be black and given horizontal shutter like lines across the dial. Of course, the bracelet would also be integrated, lending again to the seamless construction of the timepiece. The name “Nautilus” came from Jules Verne’s infamous novel ‘Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea’, relating to the Submarine used by Captain Nemo which was named Nautilus. 

 Released in 1976 under the reference 3700/1, the watch would be nicknamed “Jumbo” due to its bolshie 42mm sizing which was considered to be bulbous during this period.


Patek Philippe Nautilus Today


Fast forward to 2023 and The Nautilus remains a highly revered collection which is at the forefront of Patek Philippe’s other watches like the Calatrava or Aquanaut. 



Nautilus 5711/1A-018 - Source - Philipps

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From its inception in 1976, the Nautilus collection has consistently followed the design codes of a horizontally embossed dial, a porthole construction for the case and an integrated bracelet. Just like with the Royal Oak, the steely construction is constantly in rotation with precious metals.  

There are some watches which also go to the extreme of luxury design. Take for example the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-018. Given a highly coveted Tiffany dial and owned by serious watch collector and Shape Of You star, Ed Sheeran, the timepiece is capped at 170 watches to celebrate the 170 year partnership between Tiffany and Patek Philippe. Suffice to say, a watch was auctioned off by Philipps in New York for around £5 million in 2021. 


Top Three Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches


Patek Phillipe Nautilus 5711/1A


Launched in 2006, the Nautilus 5711/1A follows old school design codes of minimalism by keeping the watch crafted out of stainless steel and negating the need for jewels and ostentation. 



Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A 

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Maintaining the circular octagonal bezel design in its porthole shape, the dusky blue dial is given the classic horizontal embellishments of its predecessors. It keeps away from the flashy charms of watches like the Grandmaster Chime and focuses on form over function. A bit like the new IWC Ingenieur which has been released at this year's Watches and Wonders 2023.  

Owned by Brad Pitt, Victoria Beckham, Ed Sheeran and presenter Ellen DeGeneres,  the celebrity clientele is as in demand as the gleaming integrated bracelet. You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A at retail due to it being discontinued but you can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £120,000…at the time of writing.


Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A


The Nautilus Travel Time blends the classic design codes of the Nautilus with a healthy dose of modernity. 


Nautilus 5990/1A Watch 

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Featuring the rounded case, integrated bracelet and embossed dial design the watch is given the prestige of having a flyback function. This allows the chronograph functions to be sent back to zero with just a simple click of the second push piece, all while the time measurement continues to run. Other flyback watches you might like to peruse include The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph or The Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph CBE511C.FC8280

The blue sunburst dial goes from a subtle blue to a dark periphery on the dial's edges, enchanting the embossment on the dial and allowing the luminescent indices to clearly stand out majestically. 


You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time at retail for £55,240…at the time of writing.


Patek Philippe Nautilus 5723/1R-001


Made from 18K rose gold and bolstered with a rich array of baguette diamonds around the bezel, (we do love a bit of bling!)  The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5723/1R-001 still maintains the classic octagonal shape and horizontal dial design that made Gerald Genta so notorious.

Nautilus 5723/IR-001 - Source - Sotheby’s

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The rose gold construction adds yet another dynamic to the timepiece, pushing it more into the realms of a luxury dress watch than a sports watch, suitable for all manner of black tie affairs or smart occasions. This is further enhanced by the diamonds which offer a cracking display of pure sophistication and uber refinement. While its design may be a little gaudy to some, it certainly hasn't put off comedian Trevor Noah from sporting it at the Grammys. You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5723/1R-001 at retail due to it being discontinued but you can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £700,000 at the time of writing.

IWC Ingenieur Watch


History of The IWC Ingenieur Watch


The IWC Ingenieur was launched during the 1950s during the boom of wondrous technological changes. 



Ingenieur - Source - IWC

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It was launched with a strong selling point as the first antimagnetic wristwatch manufactured by IWC Schaffhausen to be used by everyday folks like me and you. First released as a tool watch, it was released for chemists, doctors and engineers who would regularly be in contact with magnetic fields. 

Given a soft iron inner case, the watch is more than capable of dealing with magnetism within that era. Originally designed for the Pilots watch Mark XI for the British Air Force, the Ingenieur 666 was released in 1955 in its circular case design. 

The 1960’s spun around, bringing IWC to the conclusion they needed to update the Ingenieur to reflect the technical nature of the timepiece while increasing its robustness. Who else could IWC possibly turn to? Step forward the timekeeping ‘Maestro’ himself, Gerald Genta.


Gerald Genta’s Influence


Gerald Genta released the Ingenieur SL Ref 1832 in 1976 to become the figurehead of the SL collection. The general design codes of the SL collection were cases and bracelets made out of steel, all of which came under the luxury sports watches category. 


Genta Ingenieur - Source - Hairspring

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Gerald Genta’s edition brought a screw on rounded bezel which had 5 dipped sections for each visible screw. The dial was given an exclusive checkerboard styling which has since become a staple of the collection. The bracelet was integrated and consisted of ‘H links’. 

Gerald Genta pulled another luxury steel sports watch which quickly garnered the nickname of “Jumbo” due to its sizable sizing. Just like the Royal Oak, the Ingenieur SL was originally not successful and sold just over 1000 watches in the subsequent years. 


IWC Ingenieur Today


Genta’s Ingenieur became the main inspiration for Ingenieur watches from that point forward.  

For example, in 2005, The Ingenieur Automatic 3227 was released and followed the 5 screw, circular bezel and integrated bracelet construction of Genta's original watch. It was given a new automatic movement as well as an integrated shock absorber system. 

In 2013, The Ingenieur collection evolved again, all while keeping the same design codes. The Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon, Ref. 590001 was crafted out of both platinum and ceramic as well as featuring an integrated constant-force mechanism. 

Nowadays, The IWC Ingenieur is still being updated. Watches and Wonders 2023 saw the Ingenieur collection being revitalised with 4 new editions. Three are crafted out of stainless steel and one is made up of titanium. 

The checkerboard design is maintained, but IWC’s latest technology has ensured that the squared allure looks even richer than usual. Featuring dial designs in black, aqua, silver or grey, IWC are slowly getting up to speed with the colour memo!


Top 3 IWC Ingenieur Watches 


IWC Ingenieur 40mm Automatic IW328904


Crafted out of the extremely popular grade 5 titanium, IWC are appeasing a new consumer market with their latest release from Watches and Wonders 2023, IWC Ingenieur 40mm Automatic IW328904



Ingenieur - Source - IWC

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Blending the classic case shapings and dial pattern, the watch houses new, sleek crown guards to protect the crown. The watch follows the ergonomic designs of the older Ingenieur watches while improving them with the latest tech such as the distinctive checkerboard dial structure, which is made up of miniscule lines which offset each other by 90 degrees.


You can buy an IWC Ingenieur 40mm Automatic IW328904 at retail for £12,900. 


IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Sport Edition ‘50th Anniversary of Mercedes-AMG’


IWC loves a good celebration even if it’s not their own.


Ingenieur 50th Anniversary - Source - Zeitenblick Uhren

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Releasing the Ingenieur Chronograph Sport Edition ‘50th Anniversary of Mercedes-AMG’, IWC marked half a century of Mercedes-AMG. Since 2010, IWC and Mercedes have been in pole position, becoming their official watch sponsor and getting their watch branding on drivers gloves during Formula 1. Before its release, the new IWC Top Gun was actually worn by seven time Formula 1 winner, Lewis Hamilton during the 2023 Spanish Grand Prix.

Made from titanium, the 44.3mm case scraps the visible screw design but maintains the circular bezel. Aside from that, the bracelet isn't integrated, the checkerboard background is replaced with a matte white dial face and is given Arabic numerals instead of regular batons. 

At the end of the day, this is more of an ode to Mercedes, thus why there’s a tachymetric scale and lightning bolt hand design on the small seconds sub dial at 6 o’clock. As Goose proclaimed, it’s all about the need for speed! You can no longer buy an IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Sport Edition at retail due to it being a past collection. Capped at 250 watches, it sells on the secondary market for around £8,000…at the time of writing.


IWC Ingenieur 3227


Measuring 42mm, the Ingenieur 3227 overtook the previous 32mm and 34mm watches and was released in 2005.



Ingenieur 3227 Watch - Source - The Rare Room

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The dial pattern is ridged and made up of many small lines, resulting in a hypnotising finish that even Houdini couldn't compete with. With Arabic numerals replacing 12 and 6, the watch relates to the dial design of the IWC Ingenieur 666. If you’re lucky, you could land a beautiful salmon dial edition which is capped at 200 watches.  

Yes, Timelords. The bezel is circular with 5 prominent screws while an integrated bracelet links the entire watch together and the bracelet is made up of “H-links”. You can no longer buy an IWC Ingenieur 3227 at retail due to it being discontinued. You can buy it on the secondary market for around £9,000…at the time of writing.


Cartier Pasha de Cartier 


History of Cartier Pasha de Cartier


The Pasha de Cartier started in 1932 when Pasha of Marrakesh ordered a one-off timepiece from none other than Louis Cartier. 



Pasha of Marrakesh - Source - Marrakech Tricks


Crafted out of gold and durable enough to deal with the active lifestyle of Pasha of Marrakesh, he could do his daily laps in the pool due to the watches solid water resistance and wear it to important events due to its refined construction. 

 As much as we would like this to be the true story, there’s no solid evidence supporting the claim that the watch was solely made for the Pasha of Marrakesh. However, Cartier is yet to disprove this alleged story…

In 1985, the Quartz Crisis had passed. The Royal Oak and Nautilus were in full swing and Cartier needed something to bolster their sales. I think it's best if they employed the help of a certain gentleman, don't you? Gerald Genta, where are you hiding?


Gerald Genta’s Influence


Cartier needed a solid timepiece which was masculine but still held the classic Cartier charm, feels and design. Gerald Genta was a guy who could craft top notch luxury sports watches with consummate ease. Naturally, this was a true horological match made in heaven!



Cartier Pasha - Source - The Watch Club

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The Pasha de Cartier represented the antithesis of Cartier's previous watches which were constructed with gentle curves or refined rectangles like the Cartier Tank. The Pasha de Cartier was a sizable 38mm with a thick bezel, old school Vendome lugs, a crown with classic cabochon and an attaching chain. 

 The dial design features a square minute chapter ring which edges around the centre of the hands. The 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock are Arabic numerals, with the remaining indices representing lines emanating from the centre outwards. 


Cartier Pasha de Cartier Today


The Pasha de Cartier follows very clear design codes from its inception in 1985 right up to contemporary times. 

Today’s watches come in a variety of materials such as rose gold and steel. The case is still rounded and the cabochon crown still resides on the side of the case. The crown is connected with the attaching chain which is a highly unique feature, akin only to the Pasha de Cartier. 

The bezel keeps its broad construction which allows for some watches to be adorned with jewels. Take for example the Cartier Pasha de Cartier WJPA0013 which adorns 1.15 carats of brilliant cut diamonds on the bezel alone. 


Top Three Cartier Pasha de Cartier 


Pasha de Cartier WJPA0013


At 41mm, this watch is crafted out of yellow gold and features a blue fluted crown cap set with a sapphire and attached with a chain. 


Pasha - Source - Cartier

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The silver flinqué dial design promotes the blued hands and the squared minute chapter ring and lines emanating from the centre outwards represent the remaining indices aside from the standard 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock Arabic numerals. The Vendome lugs epitomise vintage style which relates solely to this collection. 


You can buy a Cartier Pasha de Cartier WGPA0007 at retail for £17,900. 


Pasha de Cartier WSPA0027


Pasha de Cartier also has the capability of releasing timepieces outside of the classic dress watch stylings.


Pasha de Cartier - Source - Cartier

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This edition comes in at 41mm and features the usual classic aspects like a fluted crown protector with a synthetic spinel, a rounded case, vendome lugs and the classic dial design of a squared minute chapter ring and lines emanating from the centre outwards. 

The watch is crafted out of steel and features a classy anthracite flinqué dial, which enhances the blued hands and white indices. The watch features chronograph subdials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, leaving only 12 o’clock as the sole Arabic numeral. There are two push pieces located at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock which feature synthetic spinels. 


You can buy a Cartier Pasha de Cartier WSPA0027 at retail for £9,900 at the time of writing. 


Pasha de Cartier WJPA0020


The Pasha de Cartier WJPA0020 pushes the envelope of avant garde design. 



Pasha Cartier - Source - Cartier

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The watch is crafted out of rose gold and has a special feature in the form of a grid. This removable grid attached to the bezel represents the forward thinking design of The Pasha de Cartier collection. The grid and bezel are set with 117 diamonds which look exceptional against the rose gold construction of the watch. 

The opaline flinqué dial has blued hands and Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. Complemented with a squared minute chapter ring and vendome lugs, the Pasha de Cartier look is maintained while undergoing a transformation in the form of a tantalising grid. 


You can buy a Cartier Pasha de Cartier at retail for £30,400 at the time of writing.




Well then, Timelords. It’s clear to see the impact that Gerald Genta has had on the horological universe. From dealing with the biggest releases of all time in the form of the Royal Oak and Nautilus collections to lesser known works such as the Omega Constellation collection, he has added his own unique twist on each release.  

The common themes tend to follow visible screws and octagonal cases. These are concepts which have since become emblems of Gerald Genta. So next time you are shopping for that horological beauty, keep your eyes open for the classic integrated lugs or vendome lugs in the case of a Cartier Pasha de Cartier. 

Can't wait to buy a Cartier? Want to feel the magnetic allure of the greatest luxury watch brands around? Save time and chat with Chrono Hunter here. If you’re still unsure, check out our phenomenal reviews on Trustpilot and find out why we are the best place to buy a watch or sell a watch.

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Further Reading: 

Essential Questions On How To Sell Your Omega Watch

The Ultimate Watch Collection For Under £60,000 - Tudor Black Bay, Rolex Daytona

9 Grail Watches You Should Start Collecting Today

The Top 12 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men


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