In 2012, esteemed watch manufacturer Audemars Piguet decided to revamp its classic Royal Oak design with a new generation of self-winding designs. Up until last year, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST was the base model of the collection, having superseded the previous incarnation (reference 15300ST).

There are many reasons why this version can be considered the flagship Royal Oak model, but before we get into the finer details of this 15400ST review, it’s perhaps time to reflect on what makes the AP Royal Oak so ubiquitous among fans and collectors of luxury timepieces.

AP Royal Oak review: a brief history

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was initially conceived by the iconic watch developer Gerald Genta. Having made his name as a designer with classics like the Cartier Pasha, Omega Constellation and Patek Nautilus series of watches, his first outing with Audemars Piguet was with the Royal Oak at Baselworld, all the way back in 1972.

While the AP Royal Oak is now considered to have earned its place in the history books, it wasn’t initially well-received. Looking back, it’s easy to see why. An avant-garde design boasting an eight-sided bezel, exposed screws, full steel construction and an integrated bracelet was practically unheard of at the time. While the Royal Oak might have eventually gone on to become Audemars Piguet’s flagship watch, at the time it was considered rebellious and largely out of the step with the world of luxury timepieces.

The inspiration behind the design

There’s a distinct British military flavour to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, from the name - which is borrowed from the Royal Navy’s HMS Royal Oak battleships - to the distinctive octagonal bezel. Upon the release of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, some speculated that the bezel was inspired by the portholes of the Royal Navy’s fleet, although Gerald Genta has since set the record straight by stating that the shape is actually inspired by the helmets worn by deep-sea divers at the time.

With such close associations to British Navy history, it’s no surprise that the AP Royal Oak is often in high demand among ex-service personnel seeking to buy a luxury watch. However, the model has also proven popular among a huge cross-section of luxury watch fans on account of its accuracy, high-spec materials, iconic design and potential as an investment for those who may want to sell a luxury watch further down the line.

Royal Oak 15400 review: what makes this model so desirable?

Since its launch nearly four decades ago, the AP Royal Oak has gone through several updates. The main difference between the 15400ST and previous incarnations involves the case size. At 41mm in diameter, the 2012 Royal Oak 15400ST is some 2mm larger than older models, such as the 2005 Royal Oak 15300ST.

There’s also a serious difference in case proportions, too. The Royal Oak 15300ST had a case measuring 9.4mm, whereas the 15400ST measures 9.8mm, which provides greater protection to the inner workings of the watch.

These size differences help to give the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak even greater presence than ever before and provides a sportier, more modern update to a watch which had largely remained unchanged since its inception.

Other design amends

The 2005 take on the Royal Oak brought some contemporary design shifts with it. However, with the 2012 model, it appears that Audemars Piguet has reverted to some classic Royal Oak tropes. The large AP logo which sat at 12 o’clock on the dial on the 15300ST has been removed and replaced with a smaller AP logo and a double-baton index. At the time of the 15400ST launch, the return of this double-baton index delighted fans of the original vintage Royal Oak design.

Integrated bracelet

One of the most recognisable design traits of the AP Royal Oak is its bracelet, which is fully integrated into the case. A pair of vertical chains also run throughout the horizontal links, creating a distinct and aesthetically pleasing result. If the bracelet detail seems intricate, it’s because much of the construction process is undertaken by hand – and with a single glimpse, we’re sure you’ll agree that the excess craftsmanship is certainly worth it.

Interior engineering

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST makes use of the same AP Caliber 3120 movement used in the 2005 incarnation. This features a familiar gold rotor engraving which can be seen on the caseback of the watch.

The AP 3120 automatic movement bears 40 jewels and has a power reserve of 60 hours. This self-winding movement is operational at 3Hz (21,600 beats per hour). It has a total of 280 different parts, and the 22-carat gold rotor is mounted upon ceramic ball bearings. Fans of Audemars Piguet timepieces will be more than familiar with this calibre, as it is used in more than 100 different AP models.

While conducting our AP Royal Oak review, one interesting thing we noticed was that although the overall dimensions of the Royal Oak 15400ST have increased, the 3120 movement obviously remains the same size as always. As a result, the date display window has been moved slightly closer to the centre, and the extra space created has been filled with a stub.

Conclusion

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST combines classic design with contemporary engineering. As far as luxury watches go, it’s certainly on the more minimalist end of the spectrum, but this isn’t entirely a bad thing. Minimalist watches tend to pair well with a wider variety of outfits, which means the 15400ST is a standout for those on the lookout for a timepiece for formal, smart-casual and casual occasions.

If you’re looking to buy a luxury watch, the AP Royal Oak 15400ST is certainly a good investment. This model can command anywhere between £17,000 and £23,000 on the secondary market, depending on condition and provenance. Given that the 15400ST has been replaced with the 2019 Royal Oak 15500ST, it’s likely that the value of the 2012 model – one which critics will say is still the sportiest, more accessible of the Royal Oak family - will only increase in the future.

In short, now is a great time to get your hands on this iconic model.

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter 

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

Compare Offers from the worlds most reputable luxury watch retailers.

Save Time.

Save Money. 

Personalised Service. 

Hassle-Free.