Table of contents:

Patek Philippe Reveal 17 New Models: Calatrava 6007G, Aquanaut Luce, Grandmaster Chime, Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph And More

The Watches and Wonders event is notorious for phenomenal releases. Does anyone remember the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon or Vacheron Constantin’s salmon-dial Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in platinum from last year?

Holy Trinity member Patek Philippe also knows its way around Watches and Wonders and has released some exceptional models with their unveiling of the new Calatrava 6007G, Aquanaut Luce and The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph. I’ll save you all the waiting around and get right to the juicy horological details.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R-001

The Aquanaut collection does very well for itself. When launched in 1997, it offered users a completely different experience to what they were having with Patek Philippe watches at that time. It created a genre of timepieces that hadn't been tapped into previously, so much so that the Aquanaut collection became a hit amongst the young folk due to it being modern while still retaining their allure as seen through the Nautilus inspired rounded case. Also adopting the funky Tropical strap that made the watch so youthful, it's certainly a watch that has stood the test of time and is now highly revered among enthusiasts and collectors. Aren't we lucky that they decided to revisit this delightful little number!

Design

Still built in the classic rounded octagonal shape that's basically an emblem at this point, the 39.9mm case utilises both a satin and polished finish in order to let the rose gold shine.

Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar - Source - Patek Philippe

The dial is very subtle in its refined dimmed-blue hue and matches the composite strap. The colour on the dial contrasts with the gold case and bezel extremely well and the rose gold clasp on the strap does wonders in making the strap itself look elegant, verging on regal due to the blue and gold colour scheme.

The indices and hands are gold-applied Arabic numerals which seemingly rise above the Aquanaut pattern which is embossed into the dial. They are dosed with luminescence to ensure perfect legibility. The strap style has remained the same since its inception and continues to boast a strong resistance to salt water, ultra violet rays and general abrasions. This is the perfect watch for living your best life beachside or in and out of that swanky penthouse pad! The strap also has a fold over clasp which is patented by the brand. Engraved with their official logo, it does its job of offering first rate stability as there are four separate clasps to enhance it.

The casual-chic vibe is maintained while Aquanaut Luce is beautifully crafted to suit all manner of events, be it at the beach, travelling for work or for the busy office exec so bear that in mind when you look to buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce.

Technical Features

It doesn't just photograph well either.

Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar - Souce - Patek Philippe

The brains behind this beauty are new all thanks to the 26-330 S QA LU calibre. Built to be golden inside and out, the central rotor is crafted out of 21K gold with the movement powered by an annual calendar module with moon phase complications.

For those who know their timepieces, you’ll have noticed that the Annual Calendar module has been inverted, meaning the information given by the calendar is different in comparison to other watches that offer this specific complication. The movement also powers a date function located at 6 o'clock and moon phase aperture which can be spotted at 12 o’clock, plus, day and month sub dials. These are accessible at 3 o’clock and 9 o'clock. In case you think the moon phase indicator is just a pretty complication, it's actually incredibly accurate to the point where it goes one day out of sync with the lunar cycle every 122 years. Impressive, right?

The calibre features a patented clutch that ensures the quality of the self winding mechanism and there’s a stop seconds feature that can kill any balance movement if the crown is altered to a certain position. More like licence to thrill as this can instantly be reversed if the crown is reverted back to its original position.

Concluding Thoughts

The Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R - 001 is a technical marvel featuring cutting edge technology to provide longevity and quality throughout the movement. The calibre was patented in 1996 and was the first day, date and month calendar to need just one physical alteration per year. Oh yes, Timelords. You can buy a Patek Philippe that is as precise as a compass! The design has a real regal vibe to it while the colour scheme allows the iconic case to be the centre of attention. Which is exactly what you will be with this near £50,000 watch. Simple, elegant and oozing sophistication, it wont catch your eye too much and distract you from the very legible dial.

You can buy a Patek Philippe 5261R at retail for £49,530 - at the time of writing.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G

So, time peeps…can you actually buy a Patek Philippe with crazy colours? Well, you can this year at Watches and Wonders 2023. Admittedly, we were just as taken aback as you inevitably were when you first saw this release from them. The Calatrava collection is known for being the blueprint of casual watches. Its circular design is extremely elegant and draws in even the most ardent tool watch fans. Here, they are taking the watch into uncharted realms, which could be potentially a disastrous attempt for the brand. Modernising a beautifully sophisticated watch is one thing. But showing that they have the capabilities of keeping their older models relevant to a new audience is a whole new horological ball game.

Design

The Calatrava 6007G utilises a black dial and lets the straps do the shouting, talking and everything in between.

Calatrava 6007G - Source - Patek Philippe

At 40mm like the 2020s release, the 6007A, the Calatrava 6007G is crafted from white gold and given a polished finish. The dial is black in all three references while its only the smallest touches of colour on the track on the periphery of the dial and the centre of the dial that features matching colours to the strap. Available In either a bold red, yellow or blue, the strap is predominantly made of black calfskin while being stitched with the accented colours. The back of the strap is a block of either colour which isn't subtle and is extremely visually stimulating. A Perfect watch for those winter days! The dial itself features Arabic numerals which are coated with Super-Luminova like the hands. The background of the dial is given a checkerboard guilloche aesthetic in the centre circle then a brushed effect with a grainy tinge everywhere else.

Technical Features

The calibre 26-330 S C is nothing to sniff out in terms of its output.

Calatrava 6007G - Source - Patek Philippe

Powering the usual timekeeping features as well as a date aperture at 3 o'clock, the calibre runs hacking seconds and beats at a considerable 28,800VpH. With a power reserve of 45 hours, the Calatrava 6007G has had subtle updates from its 6007A predecessor. Featuring a stable Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, the main winding rotor is made from 21K gold while the calibre is given their Hallmark seal. It's a steady beast of a movement that provides all the precision a man could ask for when he ventures to buy a Patek Philippe!

Concluding Thoughts

The Calatrava 6007G represents Patek Philippe’s navigation into the modern world and possibly Gen Z consumers. The Calatrava, arguably the most sophisticated collection within the Maison has been altered to a strap which would not be remiss on a casual TAG Heuer and with bold tones that would easily fit in next to Hublot’s Big Bang collection. It's a brave move from the Swiss brand and gives a much sportier edge to a casual watch. Its unique design from the dial to the strap is thought provoking and will no doubt be extremely valuable in the future.

You can buy a Patek Philippe 6007G at retail for £30,480 at the time of writing.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph

The Calatrava collection is being heavily zoomed in on by the brand at Watches and Wonders 2023.

The Travel Time function is something only Patek Philippe can boast, especially since it allows two time zones to be displayed without any interference with the legibility of the watch. This function is of course due to the genius implementation of the two centre hour hands which can be altered in order to properly establish the correct time. While we could go into raptures over the technical skill of just that complication alone, we’d better get on with the new release, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph.

Design

The watch has been designed to ooze elegance and charm from every grain, finish point and lug.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph - Source - Patek Philippe

Crafted from 18K rose gold, the 42mm case adds a layer of sophistication to the very classy dark blue dial which has been given a dual railway track, allowing top notch readability to be improved when determining two time zones. The pushers on the side of the case have been subbed out for a patented correction system which is accessible through the crown. By a few swift movements, you can make a few necessary adjustments in one hour stints in either direction. Those of you who know your horological history will know that the design is based on their own Chronometero Gondolo pocket watch which stems back to 1905.

The dial can be difficult to decipher due to the level of indices on it, but they are written out in Arabic numerals so it's a tad more legible than its Roman numeral brethren. The numerals are polished and displayed above a satin finished ring that circles round the edge of the dial.

Coated with luminescence, they are extremely legible, as well as the 5 minute cabochon markers which are present every 5 minutes on the railway track. A miniscule seconds counter is present at 6 o'clock and blends in with the dial majestically due to its sleek description and matching colour scheme of rose gold and navy blue. The hour and minute hands are similarly golden while the second gold hour hand is skeletonised to differentiate from the other hands ensuring a clear view of the dial.

The strap is made from calfskin and the same navy blue colour as the dial, allowing the entire piece to be seamless. It's also given a prong buckle to ensure security which is crafted out of rose gold to match the case.

Technical Features

The 31-260 PS FUAS 24H calibre is intricate. Like that spider’s web, you find on a cold frosty morning, this is a detail of the highest horological order.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph - Source - Patek Philippe

The calibre is protected by numerous firewalls to ensure its security and stability is protected. For example, a Gyromax balance and a Spiromax spring is adopted to ensure bumps and knocks don't impact the movement and the steady pulse of 28,800VpH ensures the watch is beating at a steady rate. The 48 hour power reserve means you can jet off with it for an all important business trip or a short weekend in Geneva with the family! Meanwhile, the calibre powers local and home time, minutes, small seconds, stop-seconds functionality and is granted a Patek Philippe seal as a sign of quality.

Concluding Thoughts

What’s our view? The Calatrava Pilot Time Chronograph preserves The Calatrava’s legacy of being a beautifully refined collection. The rose gold accentuates the navy blue aspects and gives the appearance of refinement and subtlety that is so hard to find nowadays. We like that It doesn't rely on ostentatious colour, rather, it does what it does best; producing high quality movements inside of aesthetically pleasing cases. We can expect this watch to be highly sought after due to its intricate movement which is officially certified and its impressive slimmer design.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph at retail for £46,190 - at the time of writing.

Grandmaster Chime - White Gold and Rose Gold Updates

The Grandmaster Chime is an icon in the brands portfolio, holding the crown as one of their most complicated collections of all time. They have continued this trend of making the watch as complicated as possible with 20 of them in this revamped model while giving it a sleek new design. This really bolsters the idea that The Grandmaster Chime isn't just a watch to lock away, it's a watch to wear proudly around town, on your yacht in Cannes or enjoying drinks at that stunning oceanside restaurant. Boasting 118 emeralds (nearly 8 carats!) and a whopping 291 diamonds, equivalent to 20.54 carats, The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime is updated and ready to be unleashed on the horological world. Let's see if they have retained their glory.

Design

The reference 6300GR is made from of white gold and rose gold to achieve a beautifully contrasting aesthetic. In 2014, they released the Grandmaster Chime with more than 20 complications and became the most intricate watch on record at that moment. They have essentially updated and modernised this model by altering the double reversible face and giving both sides brown opaline dials.

Grandmaster Chime - Source - Patek Philippe

Combine this with the extremely skillful Clous de Paris which offers a hobnail pattern finish on the watch, offering more legibility to the white ring sub dials and rose gold hands and indices. The chestnut alligator strap seamlessly brings the entire piece together and is certainly the right choice by the brand. Did we mention it comes with a set of white gold cufflinks for those days when you need to look your best? This is the first time they have utilised a twin colour design on a Grandmaster Chime and we think it looks superb!

Technical Features

What more do we need to say on a watch this complex?

Proudly displaying 20 complications on its dual faces, there are 5 acoustic functions which also house two patented creations. These are an alarm which sounds when programmed to and a date repeater which can strike on a date of your choosing. Oh yes, Timelords. This watch really is for those seeking out the best of Haute Horlogerie. While we could feasibly be here forever if we went through each complication, we have noted its instantaneous perpetual calendar, a Grande and Petite Sonnerie and a four digit display in an aperture - located centrally on the ‘back’ of the reversible dial.

Grandmaster Chime - Source - Patek Philippe

With a power reserve of 72 hours, the famous 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM calibre is protected by the patented Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring to ensure none of these beautiful complications become affected by any knocks. One more thing, for the lunar lovers among us…you may have noticed the moon phases calendar on the front of the dial. There is no doubt that Patek loves to reach for the stars with their timepieces!

Concluding Thoughts

They didn't really need to do too much to the Grandmaster Chime technically. A masterpiece in itself, it's a highly sought after piece, enhanced by celeb wearers such as Jay-Z. Truth be told, the watch is so lauded and appreciated by the watch community that they probably would have reissued the 2016 model and no one would have batted an eye. The new bi-colour design which the brand has gone for looks stunning and is certainly aesthetically pleasing. For a watch that's so complicated, it comes in at 47.7mm in diameter which we can expect. The traditional circular design encompasses all its intricacies and the rose gold aspects such as on the Sonnerie hand and bar contrast wonderfully with the deep brown dial.

You can buy a Patek Philippe upon request.

Patek Philippe 5178G-012

Patek Philippe has released another watch with complications that could blow the common man away!

Design

The 5718 is constructed with style and elegance in mind.

5178G - Source - Patek Philippe

Utilising handiwork that is rarely seen in watchmaking, they have created a flinqué blue Grand Feu enamel dial. Simply put, it's a dial that is structured upon a white gold plate and is then given a guilloche finish which looks like waves going out to sea. This is then coated with a translucent enamel which gives the dial its shine and makes it look more like a piece of pottery than a stylistic choice on a watch.

Of course, the watch uses blue alligator leather or orange alligator leather which are linked by a white gold clasp. The vibrancy of the strap suits the dial perfectly and makes the entire model look effortless. The design is electrifying as the blue dial pulses with various textured lines in a hypnotic swirl form the centre of the dial outwards. Keep up the good work!

Technical Features

The calibre R 27 PS is clearly seen through the exhibition back which offers a direct view into the heartbeat of this magnificent machine.

5178G-012 - Source - Patek Philippe

Housing a 22K golden micro-rotor which allows the watch to automatically wind, there are gong functions for you audiophiles which are clearly heard and there is a minute repeater complication. Beating at 3Hz, the watch has the standard Hallmark seal and security in the Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax balance which ensure these magnificent watches keep time perfectly, even through knocks and abrasions.

Concluding Thoughts

The watch is both refined, yet powerful which is a hard combination to come across. Measuring 40mm, the case is crafted out of white gold showing the level of craftsmanship and detail that goes into the watch. The sapphire crystal ensures a perfect view at the dazzling dial and it's comfortable on the wrist due to the beautiful texture of the alligator leather.

You can buy a Patek Philippe 5178G-012 at retail when you request a price.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968R

The first Aquanaut chronograph was met with raptures in 2021 when it arrived in its splendour of white gold with matching dial and strap in a riveting dark blue sheen. We hope it's as exciting now as it was when it came out then!

Design

Crafted in 18K rose gold, the dial and strap match like the edition in 2021, this time in a smooth sunburst brown with the strap being a little darker in tone.

Aquanaut 5968R - Source - Patek Philippe

The dial is uncomplicated, featuring a date aperture at 3 o'clock and a 60 minute counter which is present at 6 o'clock. The chronograph elements are coated in white which gives them a very good element of legibility against the darker dial pattern which is embossed and resembles something close to a swelling checkerboard. The Aquanaut was originally sporty and this model stays true to that to an extent. The composite strap harks to being outside with this model as opposed to a more formal leather strap and the case design does resemble that of its predecessors.

The bezel is polished and satin brushed which offers a gleaming effect and catches the eye almost instantaneously.

Technical Features

The CH 28-520 C calibre is strong, powering the date aperture and the flyback function which allows for the watch to be restarted the moment the sleek pusher at 4 o'clock is hit.

Aquanaut 5968R - Source - Patek Philippe

Blending both the old school column wheel drive with the more contemporary vertical disk clutch, the flyback chronograph movement is the epitome of reliability and new world technology. Certified by the Hallmark seal, the movement can provide 55 hours of power reserve and a solid pulse of 28,800VpH. The exhibition back entitles you lucky time peeps to see the 21K gold central rotor as well as the 32 jewels adorned within the movement. This is the watch of your dreams…perhaps!

Concluding Thoughts

The Aquanaut collection is spruced up with a more formal edition of the typically sporty collection. The brown colouring suits the rose gold design superbly and gives the watch an understated build. While it still has complications like the flyback function and the date aperture at 3 o'clock, the dial face isn't cluttered or filled up with unnecessary aspects.

It's a superb watch for those looking to dress up smart and show off their new wristwear. The composite strap however means you don't have to dress up in a suit and tie to warrant wearing this watch. I bet it would look fantastic on you, dear reader!

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968R at retail for £60,950 at the time of writing.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5316/50P

There is nothing that they like more than to show off their ability to create amazing models filled to the brim with even more staggering complications!

Design

The case is made of platinum and it has a metallized blue sapphire crystal dial which is circled with a black tinged rim. The hour markers are very rarely seen on watches due to their ‘obus’ design and they are gold applied, further enhancing their visibility on the dial face.

Grand Complications 5316/50P - Source - Patek Philippe

The platinum case has a metallized blue sapphire crystal dial which is circled with a black tinged rim. The hour markers are very rarely seen on watches due to their ‘obus’ design and they are gold applied, further enhancing their immense visibility on the dial face. The circular case and rim is given a shine which draws the eyes to the dial's face. The face is skeletonised but the main aspects like the date and time functions are not lost in its busyness. This is primarily due to the sapphire crystal which is intentionally metalized in order to enhance the silvery indices and hands against the movement which is present behind.

At first glance you may think the dial is a little gloomy due to the dark tinge on the dial but it's all part of a greater good. It blends superbly with the dark blue calfskin strap which has cream stitching and a platinum clasp to ensure its stability. This ensures that the watch is made to be seamless and stand out beautifully on the wrist.

Technical Features

The R TO 27 PS QR movement blends a few elements like a minute repeater, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display and a moon phase indication. Should we mention that these are all complications which are highly regarded by watch aficionados?

Grand Complications 5316/50P - Source - Patek Philippe

Made up of 506 parts, the movement has a power reserve of 48 hours and is given a hallmark seal to confirm its high quality. Furthermore, it beats at a consistent 21,400VpH and is protected by a Gyromax and a Spiromax to ensure its accuracy is protected.

Concluding Thoughts

It is certainly more than worth it's salt in their portfolio. Blending the artistry of the phenomenal design offered by all of their watches with the level of complication that can only be found in their aptly named ‘Grand Complication’ collection, it is no surprise that these timepieces should not be concealed under a shirt sleeve. Its detail and outstanding ingenuity in changing the colour of the sapphire crystal to promote legibility goes to show the level of mastery that they have in the horological world.

We really feel they have nailed it this time!

You can buy a Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5316/50P at retail when you request a price.

In A Nutshell

In case you have been staring into space or through one of these hot new model casebacks in Geneva. Here is a roundup of all 17 incredible models launched by Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders 2023;

Aquanaut Models - Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001/ Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5268/200R-010/ Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968R-001.
Calatrava Models - Calatrava Ref. 6007G/ Calatrava Reference 5224R-001/ Calatrava self-winding Ref. 4997/200R-001/ Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G-001 and Ref. 5924G-010

Grand Complication Models - Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300GR-001/ Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie Ref. 6300/403G-001/ Grand Complication Ref. 5316/50P-001/
Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531G-001/ Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Ref. 5178G-012.
Additional Models - Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Ref. 5905R-010/ Gondolo Serata Ref. 4962/200R-001

Conclusion

There we have it, Timelords. Patek Phillipe have released some beautiful pieces throughout their time and have continued to do so at Watches and Wonders 2023. The movements are very well produced and reach a level of quality which is unparalleled in comparison with most other brands. By utilising their patented technology such as the Gyromax and Spiromax, the quality can be guaranteed and the longevity can be expected. Oh and sought after…that too. Nevertheless, they’ve gone Evil Kneivel in some ways with some daring models which are both brave and fearless this year, releasing the very colourful Calatrava 6007G.

This is seen as a way of linking with modern audiences while offering a more understated upgrade to the very same Calatrava collection.

Yet, the technical prowess of their Grand Complication models, unmatched by most brands, really left us for six…or 17 in their case!

Feeling the urge to buy a Patek Philippe? Wanting to see what all the hype of Watches and Wonders 2023 is about? Why not have a little chat with Chrono Hunter here? If you decide you want to buy a watch, check out our Trustpilot reviews to see why we are your essential platform when you decide to buy a watch or sell a watch.

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