The Top 20 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men
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The Top 20 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men

The Top 20 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men

 

UPDATED MAY 2024

For generations, Patek Philippe has been widely considered one of the world’s most prestigious luxury watch manufacturers. Collectors, auctioneers, retailers and even those with just a minor passing interest in horology are all certain to agree.

However, ask the same watch aficionados to name their favourite Patek Philippe models and it’s likely that you’ll receive a multitude of different answers.

For that reason, we're going to break it down and talk about Chrono Hunters top 20 most popular Patek Philippe watches and find out the best mens watches from Patek Philippe. 

Just before we get into the watches, the reason why fans of luxury timepieces have a hard time reaching a general consensus on what makes the best Patek Philippe watch is perhaps testament to the brand’s varied and eclectic portfolio. With Patek Philippe, there are different watches to suit different preferences and requirements.

It’s often the case that a watch that is revered by one collector might not be on the radar of another.

Despite this, there is a selection of classics that tend to attract the attention of watch lovers, both at auction and on the wider secondary market. In this article, we’re going to focus on twenty of the most sought-after Patek Philippe watches for men, and take a detailed look at what makes each of them so special:

 

1) Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G

The original Patek Philippe 5711 was a phenomenal success, resulting in a limited edition of the model with sought after “Tiffany” blue dial.

This was sold for $6.5m in 2021 by Tiffany & Co in New York. 

Released in 2023, The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G  represents an upgrade from stainless steel to white gold.

The case has had a horological zhuzh from 40mm to 41mm. In this case, size really does matter!

 

Nautilus 5811/1G - Source - Patek Philippe

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Consisting of 2 segments, with a nod to the original Patek Philippe Nautilus from 1976, this brand new piece enjoys a stunning blue sunburst dial fading into a black periphery on the edges. The hour markers are gold applied with luminescent coating meaning you can buy a watch with superb legibility. 

While keeping its identical case construction, the intricacies of The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G have undergone a timely makeover. We like the secured fold over clasp, new lockable adjustment system and pull out lever, providing an alternative to the split stem. When you buy a watch for such a high value, you’ll be glad that it locks in tight. At the time of writing, you can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G for the retail price of £60,050 as of May 2024. .

 

2) Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001

The Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001 is one of the best mens watches and had to be included in this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. The 5990 was one of the first Patek Philippe's to bring chronograph functionality to the wrist, and it can also display two time-zones at once. This level of engineering is enough to make it sought-after on the secondary market, particularly when you consider it’s a more affordable model than other Patek’s which offer the same functions.

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 Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001

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Making its debut in 2014, the 5990/1A-001 has been in high demand ever since. Part of the reason for its success lies in the fact that Patek Philippe stayed true to designer Gerald Genta’s vision for the original Nautilus.

On the 5990/1A-001, the watchmaker has implemented some very understated changes which proved popular with collectors, including an ever-so-slight rounding of the hinges which frame the dial, in conjunction with a three-part case.

While at first glance this might look like a run-of-the-mill Nautilus, additional changes like a slightly larger steel case help to distinguish it from previous incarnations. Despite the increased profile, the 5990/1A-001 still retains a compact and slim profile meaning if you buy a watch like the Nautilus Travel Time, it will be a joy to wear.

Fans of tradition will be pleased to find that this model features the familiar Nautilus pattern which has been horizontally embossed in much the same way as the original. Traditional design touches like a counterweight used by both chronograph hands help to endear this watch to purists.

It’s also reassuring to see that the chronograph hands share the same lancet shape – a simple way of informing the wearer that each hand is part of the same complication.

Like all steel Nautilus models, it’s incredibly difficult to come by the 5990/1A-001 via the authorised channels. As a result, it commands a high price tag on the secondary market, and demand has never particularly waned since its launch – even during times of economic downturn.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time at retail for £59,040 as of May 2024.

 

3) Patek Philippe Nautilus Self-Winding Rose Gold 5712R-001

This luxurious take on the Nautilus pairs perfectly with formal attire, and with a beautiful rose gold finish, it’s difficult for friends and colleagues not to take notice. The 5712R-001 features a self-winding mechanical movement, making use of Patek’s 240 PS IRM C LU calibre complete with a power reserve indicator.

 Patek Philippe Nautilus Self-Winding Rose Gold 5712R-001

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Ultimately, this makes the Nautilus 5712R-001 as technically impressive as it is visually stunning. Its black-brown dial features gold-applied hour markets complete with a luminescent coating to make it sufficiently readable in low-light settings, while the rose gold case boasts a screw-down crown and sapphire crystal case back. It is also water-resistant up to 60 metres.

Like other Nautilus models, the 5712R-001 sits relatively large at 40mm, with a height of 8.52mm. However, the streamlined design helps it to appear compact on the wrist. To finish, a dark brown alligator strap with a fold-over clasp contrasts well with the rose gold, further denoting luxury and class.

As we’ve established, most Nautilus models are highly in-demand, and the 5712R-001 is no exception. This dressy number sits firmly on the wish lists of many luxury watch aficionados, making it one of the best mens watches and is why it could not be excluded from this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. 

You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus Self Winding Rose at retail for £71,350 as of May 2024

 

4) Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001

This beautiful timepiece is the complete travel companion, making it perfectly suited for summer adventuring. At first glance, the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 appears to be an update on the Nautilus 5990, but without a 60-minute chronograph complication installed.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 

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The steel case measures 40.8mm and utilises Patek Philippe’s signature rounded octagonal design. A satin-brushed and highly polished finish exudes pure class, and the embossed black dial with a slight brownish hue is understated yet reassuringly formidable.

Dual time zones indicating local and home times use white and blue apertures respectively – with the local time displayed on the date indicator.

With water resistance of up to 120 metres, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 isn’t just built for show – it's the sort of watch that will stand you in good stead whether you’re delivering presentations, letting your hair down on a beach in Bali or skiing the slopes of Verbier.

This watch is a Chrono Hunter firm favourite and holds a solid place in this list of most popular Patek Philippe watches, it'll take something really special for this one to lose its spot as one of the best mens watches. 

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 as it’s been discontinued. You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £54,400 as of May 2024.

 

5) Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010

No comprehensive list of the best Patek Philippe watches for men would be complete without the 5168G-010 in striking khaki green.

This jumbo version of the Aquanaut measures 42.2mm and boasts a warm green dial that many horology fans consider more olive than khaki – but regardless of how you want to classify it, there can be no denying that it’s a sumptuous, attractive watch that is simultaneously trendy and technical.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010

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A matching green rubber strap complete with folding clasp makes this watch practically unmissable on the wrist.

It’s a great all-rounder which combines a white gold case, luminous hour markers and hands, water-resistance of 120 metres and a 324 S C calibre to create a sporty yet classy number - arguably something of an anomaly among Patek Philippe’s catalogue. For this reason alone, the Aquanaut 5168G-010 is considered by many to be the best Patek Philippe watch, and the prices it can command on the secondary market certainly back this up.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010 at retail for £42,290 as of May 2024.

 

6) Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001

While some Patek Philippe models are built for ruggedness, others are designed as indicators of success. The Aquanaut 5167R-001 certainly falls into the latter category, this watch can truly be considered a luxury timepiece and certainly one that deserves a place on this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches.


Aquanaut 5167R-001 - Source - Patek Philippe

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Boasting an 18K rose gold case, familiar octagonal bezel and sapphire crystal, chocolate dial and ornately applied Arabic numeral indices, the 5167R-001 is a watch to be treasured.

However, it’s not just visually impressive: with a 45-hour power reserve thanks to the 324 S C calibre, Patek Philippe has pulled out all the stops to create a timepiece which is a statement of accomplishment. It looks great, is built to last, and is hugely in demand, which makes owning one all the more special if you can buy a Patek Philippe Watch

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001 at retail for £39,160 as of May 2024

 

7) Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001

This list of most the popular Patek Philippe watches would not be complete without Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, it has long been a contentious topic of discussion among horology fans.

Some dismiss it as too radical, while others consider it ahead of its time. Whatever your opinion on this divisive design, there can be no denying that the 5524R-001 iteration, with its warm brown dial and rose gold finish, is a sure-fire winner in the looks department.

Apart from the materials, nothing much has changed in comparison to the contentious 5524 model. As a pilot’s watch, it may feel like something of a novelty for Patek Philippe – but one look should be enough to change your mind. The inclusion of a calfskin strap in matte brown, which utilises a three-piece fastening system, only ups the elegance factor.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 - Source - Patek Philippe

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As a beautifully executed timepiece, the 5524R-001 has proved the naysayers of the original Calatrava Pilot Travel Time wrong. It pairs well with almost any outfit, features prominent, contemporary and legible gothic numerals, and remains hot in demand among horology enthusiasts.

It’s not the cheapest Patek on the market, but then again, it’s far from the simplest: the 5524R-001 is enhanced by an innovative Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax free-sprung balance wheel, which means it offers precision timing and a tolerance of no more than +2 seconds per day.

For those who want the perfect combination of elegance and accuracy, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 is an ideal choice.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 at retail for £49,350 as of May 2024.

 

8) Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Released in 2022, the Patek Philippe 5373P-001 brought along their first ever left-handed chronograph.

 

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Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph - Source - Patek Philippe

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Fitted with a split seconds monopusher chronograph and perpetual calendar, the design utilises a ‘destro’ structure, meaning the crown and pushers are at 9 o'clock instead of their typical location at 3 o'clock. 

With the design catering for left handed watch peeps, you do not have to practise with your left to warrant buying a Patek Philippe like this. In fact, this model is extremely collectable due to its high standard of complications and the fact it's the first left-handed Patek Philippe to be released for a while - 1927 to be precise! 

The case is solidly built from platinum and its diameter stretches to 38.8mm. This is perfect protection for the manual wind calibre, the CHR-27-525 PS Q. It is the thinnest split seconds chronograph ever built which is an extremely impressive and collectable feature for those looking to buy a Patek Philippe

The dial is truly a work of art. Coloured in a charcoal shade which utilises the classic Patek Philippe graduation style as seen in models like the Complication 7234R-001, the sporty red hands are visibly pronounced against the dial. With a black calfskin strap that is enhanced with sporty red stitching as a link to the colour of the hands, this watch can be suited with any outfit. 

It may be best to go for something as daring as the red hands and stitching such as a red tie or jacket in order to keep a consistent colour scheme.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph at retail for £509,630 as of May 2024.

 

9) Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001 is a high-functioning watch that practically does it all. Unsurprisingly, it’s also incredibly difficult to come by.

Launched at Baselworld back in 2016, this rose gold version of the classic Aquanaut is among the most sought-after luxury timepieces in the world. Depending on who you speak to, it’s even considered the “Holy Grail” of Patek Philippe designs.

The 5164R-001 contains a 324 S C FUS calibre which boasts an automatic 4Hz movement and 45-hour power reserve.

This calibre also utilises a rather clever dual-time function, which can be controlled by a pair of pushers on the left side of the case. The skeletonised travel-time hour hand can be hidden beneath the main hour hand when at home, and easily transitioned when in another time zone.

Aquanaut Travel Time - Source - Patek Philippe 

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Of course, Patek Philippe lovers will understand that this sort of functionality is nothing new for the brand – it actually dates back to the 60s – but it’s a nuanced and nostalgic addition to a modern model nonetheless.

This functionality combines with a luxurious rose gold finish to deliver a watch which is as desirable as it is practical which is why it is considered one of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. 

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time at retail for £54,000 as of May 2024

 

10) Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-001

The Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is the nadir of complicated watchmaking at Patek Philippe. This model is the first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph to feature a platinum case, which pairs exceedingly well with a salmon dial. Those with an interest in Patek Philippe watches will understand that platinum models are usually more coveted than their gold counterparts, and the 5270P-001 is no exception.

 

Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-001 - Source - Hodinkee 

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Materials aside, there is little from a design perspective to distinguish this model from the standard 5270. Our understanding is that Patek Philippe has chosen not to mess with perfection.

The only discernible difference is that this version features a diamond which has been carefully set between the bottom lugs – a tell-tale sign of a luxurious platinum Patek piece.

Fans of Patek Philippe watches will also be aware that salmon dials are largely reserved for exclusive collector’s items. On the 5270P-001 it works perfectly, and contrasts well with the blackened gold elements adorning the dial. The 5270P-001 is also notable as the first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph to make use of Arabic numerals.

This results in a slightly less streamlined appearance but certainly provides the watch with more character.

The 5270P-001 is powered by the same movement found in the original 5270 model: the CH 29-535 PS Q. This 33-jewel, 456-part movement marks the end of Patek Philippe’s reliance on Lemania-based movements and offers a power reserve of up to 65 hours when the chronograph is disengaged.

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5270P in salmon at retail. You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £145,300 as of May 2024.

 

11) Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001

Unveiled back in 2013, Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001 first turned heads as the brand’s most complicated wristwatch of all time. While it bears a lot of similarities with the original (5002) Sky Moon Tourbillon, the ornate casework and dial work are enough to make this timepiece one of the most sought-after Patek Philippe designs of the past decade.

 Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G - 001 - Source - Patek Philippe

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Like the 5002, the 6002G-001 features two dials and 13 complications. Both watches also possess two cathedral gongs, a minute repeater and a tourbillon. There’s little difference in terms of functionality either, as both display standard time, a perpetual calendar and moon phases.

On the rear, the dials feature astronomical functions, with the ability to display the northern sky and angular progression. However, the 6002G-001 goes one better and makes use of apertures in place of hands to display days, weeks, months and leap years.

The biggest differences between the 5002 and the 6002G-001 are largely aesthetic. Upon its release, Patek Philippe referred to this model as a “sculpture for the wrist” - and with a single glance, it’s easy to see what they meant. Eloquent ornamental carvings, arabesque garlands and curved elements combine to deliver an incredibly precise case.

During the manufacturing process, involuntary movements or brief distractions would ruin the case, resulting in it having to be recreated from scratch. This level of attention to detail assures the place of the 6002G-001 as one of the finest Patek Philippe’s on the market.

In total, over one-hundred hours of craftsmanship are invested into the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001, with each engraving being met with the individual approval of the firm’s president Thierry Stern.

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001 at retail. You can buy it on the secondary market for around £2,000,000 as of May 2024.

 

12) Patek Philippe Calatrava 5916J-001

Last but certainly not least the Patek Philippe Calatrava is considered by many to be the best dress watch of all time – and the Calatrava 5916J-001 is often referenced as the ultimate interpretation of a modern classic. The case, which measures 37mm, is significantly larger than the original Calatrava.

However, it’s also a lot slimmer, measuring in at just 7.62mm. A flat bezel and integrated lugs ensure that the 5916J-001 offers maximum comfort on the wrist while still looking sharp.

 Calatrava 5196J-001 - Source - The Watch Lounge

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A yellow gold case contrasts nicely with a brown, prong-buckle alligator strap, helping the watch to stand out nicely. It’s perfect for formal occasions but also boasts some serious engineering credentials, with water-resistance of up to 30 metres and a 215 PS manual-winding movement complete with Gyromax balance.

This list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches would not be complete if it did not include a Calatrava. 

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava 5916J-001 at retail. You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £11,000 as of May 2024.

 

Rest Of The Best Patek Phillipe Watches To Buy Right Now

 

13) Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G

 

Diameter

40.5mm

Thickness

12.2mm

Material

White gold

Power Reserve

55 hours

Reference

5980G

Our next best Patek needs no introduction.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has become a hot topic for watch lovers and avid horophiles since its initial inception in 1976. Released by Gerald Genta, the legendary designer who spearheaded the Omega Constellation and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the collection is easily the brand’s mainstay. 

Source - PP

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During Watches and Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe committed to revitalising the sports-chic line with a little modern inspo. Totalling 40.5mm x 12.2mm, the watches have around 30 metres water resistance which isn’t great, but expected for this luxurious chunk of white gold. 

Everything that has previously defined the Nautilus line remains in this model. We’re of course referring to the prominent ears on either side of the case and the now satin brushed octagonal bezel. However, while this novelty has integrated straps, none have looked as good as this denim strap that wouldn't look out of place with a pair of retro Levi 501’s.

The dials total the famous shutter style horizontal embossment, leaving deep lines throughout the centre. The blue dial is fitted with white gold baton hour markers and hands which are rounded off with Super-Luminova for maximum visibility.

Complimenting the classic timekeeping is a date aperture residing at 3 o’clock and a highly functional sub counter at 6 o’clock. Known as a mono counter, this presents three concentric scales, relating to a rich variety of chronograph functions, including a 12 hour and 60-minute timekeeping. 

They are powered by the Calibre CH 28-520 C/522, a hardy movement that provides flyback chronograph functionality alongside a 4Hz and weekend-proof 55 hour power reserve. You can witness its greatness through the sapphire caseback, including its circular graining finish. 

You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G at retail for £67,620 as of May 2024. 

 

14) Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5236P

 

Diameter

41.3mm

Thickness

11.07mm

Material

950 Platinum

Power Reserve

48 hours

Reference

5236P

The Grand Complications line is a fun addition to those looking to expand their Patek Philippe portfolios. However, it’s certainly not for the faint of heart. Typically known for its “Grand” assortment of top complications, the Watches and Wonders 2024 release saw the 5236P decked out in all its splendour. 

Source - PP

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Originally given light in 2021, the references showcase a phenomenal dial configuration… We’ll get to that in two ticks!

Totalling 41.3mm x 11.07mm of solid 950 platinum, the watches are inherently very luxurious. Its name predicts a large novelty, but this is perfect for sliding under your white shirt cuffs in the boardroom, or being the centre of attention at the Emmys. We certainly would not suggest the sea however as it is capped at 30 metres of water resistance. 

The dial comes in an off salmon shade that wouldn't look remiss from cocktails and canapes meet up! Its rich colour offers a level of depth that is irrefutably a hot colour in 2024. Boasting blackened hands and hour markers, they very clearly stand out, alongside the leap year indicator between 4 and 5 o’clock, while there is a day and night indicator between 7 and 8 o’clock.

The surrounding railroad track allows the moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock to be showcased. This incorporates a running seconds counter, boasting the secret complications and the tireless efforts of their craftsmen to ensure the dial is not as cluttered as the first queues outside Swatch stores for the next iteration of the Moonswatch

Powered by the 31-260 PS QL calibre, the Grand Complications 5236P  pulsates at 28,800VpH (4Hz), offering a modest 48 hour power reserve emanating from the 503 component movement. Pair this with your finest threads for the office or for all manner of special occasions

You can buy a Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5236P at retail for £121,100 as of May 2024. 

 

15) Patek Philippe Worldtimer 5330G

 

Diameter

40mm

Thickness

11.57mm

Material

White gold

Power Reserve

48 hours

Reference

5330G

The Worldtimer represents Patek Philippe’s ode to world horology. Taking the initial inspiration of Louis Cottier from the 1930s, the line was released in 1937, over 80 years ago! For Watches and Wonders 2024, reference 5330G was released as a solution to all your travelling needs, or those with a thirst for wanderlust. 

Source - PP

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Measuring 40mm x 11.57mm, these timepieces are crafted out of white gold, one of the rarest and most understated materials in horology. Look, we appreciate the watches built from the various golds like yellow and rose, and we can’t insult steel, but white gold has that desirable lustre that is not instantly recognisable. We believe they call it a sleeper hit!

The dial is given a navy blue sheen. The checkerboard finish is present only in the centre of the dial, and is made up of contrasting light and dark blue squares. This is where the platinum hour markers and hands reside, fitted with a strip of lume through their centres. 

Emanating from the centre of the dial is a glass pointer hand that provides no visual obstruction until it reaches the ring on the periphery. Given a red head, it relates to the specific date. The other rings relate to various cities and their respective time zones, with a 24 hour scale near the centre that can competently read three time zones. 

The Calibre 240 HU C offers a mediocre 21,600VpH and a 48 hour power reserve. But this does not detract from the visual excellence and technical mastery!

You can buy a Patek Philippe Worldtimer 5330G at retail for £65,600 as of May 2024. 

 

16) Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG

 

Diameter

42.2mm

Thickness

11.6mm

Material

Rose gold

Power Reserve

52 hours

Reference

5520RG

Ah, The Boo Radleys once sung “Wake Up It’s A Beautiful Morning”

Our next contender in the best Patek category will surely give you that much needed wake up call to buy. When the Pilot Travel Time was initially released in 2015, horophiles all but collapsed into their chairs with an oversized fan. Noted for a four crown construction, questions were immediately posed... “Why?” 

Source - PP

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In 2024, Patek Philippe sought to remedy these concerns by releasing the truly fabulous, Alarm Travel Time 5520RG. 

Given a tasty rose gold case, the watches offer a warm shade that cannot be attained via other materials like platinum or white gold. At 42.2mm with a thickness of 11.6mm, their excellent design structure is second to none.

So, what about the crowns? No, we are not talking about the one worn on the Coronation Of King Charles III. Nevertheless, it’s still worth highlighting. Orientated at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock, the barrel is made from white gold which contrasts nicely with the rose gold, but the actual crown itself remains rose. We’ll get to their purpose in a moment's time. 

Given a slate grey dial, they feature a sunburst finish that allows the black minute track to be clearly presented. Fitted with Arabic numerals and sword tipped hands, they have a lume filled centre for optimal legibility. 

Below 12 o’clock is the alarm time aperture. The left box refers to the double digit hours, while the second box refers to the minutes, available in 15 minute intervals. At 6 o’clock is the phenomenal date ring sub-dial that offers a clever way of presenting the date without taking up too much space. 

There is a day and night indicator in two separate dots, relating to whether it’s day or night for the home and away time. The crown at 2 o’clock relates to activating or deactivating the alarm. The 4 o’clock crown relates to winding the alarm mechanism and it also winds the movement when turned counter-clockwise. 

For the remaining crowns, they relate to changing the local times forwards or backwards. Each crown is given a label on its head for easy readability. 

All of this is powered by the AL 30-660 S C FUS calibre. It provides a 28,800VpH alongside a strong 52 hour power reserve. It’s diminutive 6.6mm thickness means this is a very attractive movement!

You can buy a Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG at retail when you request a price as of May 2024. 

 

17) Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

 

Diameter

40.8mm

Thickness

10.2mm

Material

White gold

Power Reserve

45 hours

Reference

5164G

Our next best Patek is what the Santos-Dumont is to Cartier. An excellent investment piece over a long period, in particular reference 5711/1A, the Aquanaut is an instantly recognisable part of Patek Philippe’s portfolio. 

Launched in 1997, it is inspired by the porthole of ships, and features distinctive ears. Fashionable and inherently very attractive, these watches turned the tide on what a traditional sports watch should resemble. 

Source - PP

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Taking design codes from the Nautilus, there are some critical features that make the Aquanaut a stand alone collection. This is what PP has sought to enhance with reference 5164G from 2024. 

The 40.8mm x 10.2mm white gold models are very stylish and fitted with an octagonal bezel. Note the chamfered edges which are polished to allow the watches to boast the iconic aesthetic. This contrasts well with the brushed tops of the bezel. 

Fitted with a screw-down crown, the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G reaches 30 metres of water resistance which isn’t great, but acceptable for the chic timepiece. Sports watch? We don’t think so. Stylish alternative for a suit or black tie ensemble? Absolutely!

Given a tantalising blue dial, it features the legendary Aquanaut embossment in the styling of a hand grenade or a globe if you aren't into military metaphors. But like a bomb, this piece is one grenade that’s too hot for even Bruno Mars. 

The Arabic numerals work well for legibility, especially since they match the equally polished hands and all have a centre of luminescence. GMT functionality is read via an extra skeletonised hand, relating to the second time zone. 

For the local time, take a look at the 6 o’clock sub-dial with an outer date ring. Day and night indicators are present between 3 and 4 o’clock as well as 8 and 9 o’clock, and labelled for their respective home and local time. 

The timepieces are powered by the automatic Calibre 26-330 S C FUS. This movement totals 290 components and reaches a 45 hour power reserve with 28,800VpH (4Hz)

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G at retail upon requesting a price as of May 2024. 

 

18) Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication 5308P-010

 

Diameter

42mm

Thickness

17.71mm

Material

Platinum

Power Reserve

48 hours

Reference

5308P-010

For The Tokyo Grand Exhibition, the sixth Grand Exhibition by Patek, they decided to bring together a summary of all their favourite complications, into one very tidy timepiece. Warning, this is (for obvious reasons) this is not a slender piece!

Source - PP

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Entitled the Quadruple Complication, the watches are designed to be the ultimate summary of Patek Philippe’s grandest horological achievements. It could be argued that they stole the entire luxury watch event back in 2023. 

Crafted out of platinum, they have a case diameter of 42mm, but in our view are extremely difficult to wear on the wrist. This is due to the huge 17.71mm thickness that is caused by their not only being a central case, but a steep sapphire crystal protector. 

On the side of the cases, there is a large crown and two pushers which are used to alter the many complications. The sapphire crystal allows for an unbridled view into the glorious salmon coloured dial. 

Made up of black baton hour markers and blackened hands, you may have noticed the extra hand alongside the hour, minute and seconds. This relates to the split-seconds hand which is controlled via the pusher at 4 o’clock. 

Comprising two main functions, the Quadruple Complication 5308P-010 houses a perpetual calendar that automatically alters itself not to mention the split-seconds chronograph, the latest complication to the Patek Philippe stables. 

The dial is made up of calendar windows in a retrograde visual, totalling three apertures in an arc along the top of the dial. Based at 12, 1 and 11 o’clock, they cover the date, month and day respectively.

The two chronograph subdials in the centre of the dial relate to a 12 hour and 60-minute scale. The moonphase function based at 12 o’clock is framed with a small seconds counter, showing the Genevan giant’s intuitive use of combining complications for easy dial readability. 

Powered by the Calibre R CHR 27 PS QI, visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback, users can bear witness to a fabulous gold Patek Philippe logo at the top with a 48 hour power reserve and 21,600VpH.

In order to buy a Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication 5308P-010, you will have to travel to Japan as it’s only available in their retailers and boutiques. 

 

19) Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph 5924G

 

Diameter

42mm

Thickness

13.05mm

Material

White gold

Power Reserve

55 hours

Reference

5924G

The original Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of the first main collections from the brand. Released in 1932, the watches are inspired by the Bauhaus principle, finding that “form follows function”. In this instance, beauty is attained through functional circular cases and simplistic styles.

Source - PP

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The introduction of the Pilot variation back in 2015 caused a lot of horophiles to stir in anguish. The fluid dials were replaced with aviation oriented complications, leading the Calatrava to become diluted with innovation. 

However, the Pilot Travel Time Chronograph 5924G looks to fuse chronograph functionality and Travel Time worlds to create a super-watch, fit for any discerning traveller!

Released in 2023, the watches come in at 42mm x 13.05mm. This is luckily not too obtrusive on the wrist, especially since its white gold case is so desirable due to the enduring popularity of precious metals. At 2 and 4 o’clock, the watches are fitted with pushers that allow users to activate the chronograph functions at 12 and 6 o’clock. 

These chronograph functions equate to a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock and a date counter at 12 o'clock. Between both of them is a day and night indicator for both local and home times, which change from white to black depending on the time.

Capable of resisting 30 metres of water resistance, the timepieces are inherently not the most sporty, but we are looking at high flying novelties, not dive watches. Given a sunburst blue background, the dials are made up of lume filled Arabic numerals and hands for optimal legibility. 

Complete with the CH 28-520 C FUS calibre that utilises a 21K gold oscillating weight, wearers can enjoy the movement via the sapphire caseback with circular graining across the stunning calibre. Beating at 4Hz alongside a 45-55 hour power reserve and navy blue grainy calfskin strap, this is a summation of their prowess in producing traveller watches.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph 5924G at retail for £65,100 as of May 2024. 

 

20) Patek Phillippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time 5224R

 

Diameter

42mm

Thickness

10.2mm

Material

Pink gold

Power Reserve

48 hours

Reference

5224R

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time represents one of the furthest extensions of Patek and Louis Cottiers World Time watch. Fitted with the very dressy Calatrava line, the combination adds a high functional edge to a watch typically associated with the boardroom.

Source - PP

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The 5224R in pink gold is a phenomenal representation of how a functional timepiece doesn’t always need to look as far-fetched as an extraterrestrial meteorite!

At  42mm x 10.2mm, the case is perfectly slender and can still be worn in the classic Calatrava fashion of suits with a quaint cocktail to boot. An interesting evolution for this timepiece is the lack of pushers on the case.

The crown is where all the action happens. Simply pull the crown to the second position in order to alter the second time-zone hand forwards and backwards. This allows the Travel Time function to not need any pushers to be navigated. 

The watch boasts a range of additional time zones and a functional small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. However, for day and night hours, everything is displayed throughout the dial, combining a 12 hour and 24 hour scale. The local and home time are therefore read via two of the central hands, as opposed to requiring day and night indications for home and away. 

The dial retains its clean design, opting for a navy blue background that allows the white railway track around the periphery to be clearly showcased. We mentioned that both 12 hour and 24 hours are read via Arabic numerals, but the batons in between are not barriers. They are also hour markers too. 

Designed in pink gold alongside the syringe-style hands, they are immediately visible from the blued dial. Within the timepieces is the 31-260 calibre. This high-powered calibre provides a 4Hz and a 48 hour power reserve. This works in conjunction with the Gyromax balance and Spiromax hairspring to ensure maximum accuracy. 

You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time 5224R at retail for £49,350 as of May 2024.

 

Conclusion

It’s fair to say that Patek Philippe covers a lot of ground among its varied catalogue of luxury timepieces. From rugged diving watches to ornate dress pieces, there is literally something for all watch lovers to enjoy.

From an investment perspective, Patek Philippe models make sound financial sense. As you can ascertain from this article, many of the most popular Patek Philippe watches tend to appreciate in value over time which is ideal for those looking to buy a watch as prestigious as Patek Philippe. 

If you’re looking to buy a Patek Philippe watch to add to your collection or perhaps sell a Patek Philippe watch on the secondary market, you should consider contacting Chrono Hunter today.

Over the years, we’ve forged strong working relationships with the best suppliers and buyers in the UK, and we’ll always endeavour to beat any quoted online price via our network of trusted luxury watch retailers. For further information, please do not hesitate to get in touch.

 

Discover, hunt, buy, sell

 

Further Reading: 

The Top 5 Luxury Watches Fit For London Fashion Week

Celebwatch: The Best Watches We Spotted At The Grammys

 

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