The Top 12 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men
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The Top 12 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men

The Top 12 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men

 

For generations, Patek Philippe has been widely considered one of the world’s most prestigious luxury watch manufacturers.

Collectors, auctioneers, retailers and even those with just a minor passing interest in horology are all certain to agree.

However, ask the same watch aficionados to name their favourite Patek Philippe models and it’s likely that you’ll receive a multitude of different answers.

For that reason, we're going to break it down and talk about Chrono Hunter's top 12 most popular Patek Philippe watches and find out the best men's watches from Patek Philippe. 

Just before we get into the watches, the reason why fans of luxury timepieces have a hard time reaching a general consensus on what makes the best Patek Philippe watch is perhaps a testament to the brand’s varied and eclectic portfolio.

With Patek Philippe, there are different watches to suit different preferences and requirements. It’s often the case that a watch that is revered by one collector might not be on the radar of another.

Despite this, there is a selection of classics that tend to attract the attention of watch lovers, both at auction and on the wider secondary market.

In this article, we’re going to focus on twelve of the most sought-after Patek Philippe watches for men, and take a detailed look at what makes each of them so special:

 

1) Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G

 

The original Patek Philippe 5711 was a phenomenal success, resulting in a limited edition of the model with sought after “Tiffany” blue dial.

This was sold for $6.5m in 2021 by Tiffany & Co in New York. 

Released in 2023, The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G  represents an upgrade from stainless steel to white gold.

The case has had a horological zhuzh from 40mm to 41mm. In this case, size really does matter!

 

Nautilus 5811/1G - Source - Patek Philippe

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Consisting of 2 segments, with a nod to the original Patek Philippe Nautilus from 1976, this brand new piece enjoys a stunning blue sunburst dial fading into a black periphery on the edges.

The hour markers are gold applied with luminescent coating meaning you can buy a watch with superb legibility. 

While keeping its identical case construction, the intricacies of The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G have undergone a timely makeover.

We like the secured fold over clasp, new lockable adjustment system and pull out lever, providing an alternative to the split stem. 

When you buy a watch for such a high value, you’ll be glad that it locks in tight. At the time of writing, you can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G for the retail price of £56,190.

 

2) Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001

 

The Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001 is one of the best mens watches and had to be included in this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. The 5990 was one of the first Patek Philippe's to bring chronograph functionality to the wrist, and it can also display two time-zones at once.

This level of engineering is enough to make it sought-after on the secondary market, particularly when you consider it’s a more affordable model than other Patek’s which offer the same functions.

 

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 Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001

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Making its debut in 2014, the 5990/1A-001 has been in high demand ever since. Part of the reason for its success lies in the fact that Patek Philippe stayed true to designer Gerald Genta’s vision for the original Nautilus.

On the 5990/1A-001, the watchmaker has implemented some very understated changes which proved popular with collectors, including an ever-so-slight rounding of the hinges which frame the dial, in conjunction with a three-part case.

While at first glance this might look like a run-of-the-mill Nautilus, additional changes like a slightly larger steel case help to distinguish it from previous incarnations.

Despite the increased profile, the 5990/1A-001 still retains a compact and slim profile meaning if you buy a watch like the Nautilus Travel Time, it will be a joy to wear.

Fans of tradition will be pleased to find that this model features the familiar Nautilus pattern which has been horizontally embossed in much the same way as the original. Traditional design touches like a counterweight used by both chronograph hands help to endear this watch to purists.

It’s also reassuring to see that the chronograph hands share the same lancet shape – a simple way of informing the wearer that each hand is part of the same complication. 

Like all steel Nautilus models, it’s incredibly difficult to come by the 5990/1A-001 via the authorised channels.

As a result, it commands a high price tag on the secondary market, and demand has never particularly waned since its launch – even during times of economic downturn.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time at retail for £55,240 at the time of writing. 

 

3) Patek Philippe Nautilus Self-Winding Rose Gold 5712R-001

 

This luxurious take on the Nautilus pairs perfectly with formal attire, and with a beautiful rose gold finish, it’s difficult for friends and colleagues not to take notice.

The 5712R-001 features a self-winding mechanical movement, making use of Patek’s 240 PS IRM C LU calibre complete with a power reserve indicator.

 

 Patek Philippe Nautilus Self-Winding Rose Gold 5712R-001

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Ultimately, this makes the Nautilus 5712R-001 as technically impressive as it is visually stunning.

Its black-brown dial features gold-applied hour markets complete with a luminescent coating to make it sufficiently readable in low-light settings, while the rose gold case boasts a screw-down crown and sapphire crystal case back. It is also water-resistant up to 60 metres.

Like other Nautilus models, the 5712R-001 sits relatively large at 40mm, with a height of 8.52mm. However, the streamlined design helps it to appear compact on the wrist.

To finish, a dark brown alligator strap with a fold-over clasp contrasts well with the rose gold, further denoting luxury and class.

As we’ve established, most Nautilus models are highly in-demand, and the 5712R-001 is no exception.

This dressy number sits firmly on the wish lists of many luxury watch aficionados, making it one of the best men's watches and that is why it could not be excluded from this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. 

 You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus Self Winding Rose at retail for £44,760 at the time of writing. 

 

4) Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001

 

This beautiful timepiece is the complete travel companion, making it perfectly suited for summer adventuring.

At first glance, the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 appears to be an update on the Nautilus 5990, but without a 60-minute chronograph complication installed.

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 

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The steel case measures 40.8mm and utilises Patek Philippe’s signature rounded octagonal design. A satin-brushed and highly polished finish exudes pure class, and the embossed black dial with a slight brownish hue is understated yet reassuringly formidable.

Dual time zones indicating local and home times use white and blue apertures respectively – with the local time displayed on the date indicator.

With a water resistance of up to 120 metres, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 isn’t just built for show – it's the sort of watch that will stand you in good stead whether you’re delivering presentations, letting your hair down on a beach in Bali or skiing the slopes of Verbier.

This watch is a Chrono Hunter firm favourite and holds a solid place in this list of most popular Patek Philippe watches, it'll take something really special for this one to lose its spot as one of the best men's watches. 

 You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 at retail for £34,290 at the time of writing.

 

5) Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010

 

No comprehensive list of the best Patek Philippe watches for men would be complete without the 5168G-010 in striking khaki green.

This jumbo version of the Aquanaut measures 42.2mm and boasts a warm green dial that many horology fans consider more olive than khaki – but regardless of how you want to classify it, there can be no denying that it’s a sumptuous, attractive watch that is simultaneously trendy and technical.

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010

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A matching green rubber strap complete with a folding clasp makes this watch practically unmissable on the wrist.

It’s a great all-rounder which combines a white gold case, luminous hour markers and hands, water-resistance of 120 metres and a 324 S C calibre to create a sporty yet classy number - arguably something of an anomaly among Patek Philippe’s catalogue.

For this reason alone, the Aquanaut 5168G-010 is considered by many to be the best Patek Philippe watch, and the prices it can command on the secondary market certainly back this up.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010 at retail for £39,530 at the time of writing. 

 

6) Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001

 

While some Patek Philippe models are built for ruggedness, others are designed as indicators of success.

The Aquanaut 5167R-001 certainly falls into the latter category, this watch can truly be considered a luxury timepiece and certainly one that deserves a place on this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches.


Aquanaut 5167R-001 - Source - Patek Philippe

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Boasting an 18K rose gold case, familiar octagonal bezel and sapphire crystal, chocolate dial and ornately applied Arabic numeral indices, the 5167R-001 is a watch to be treasured.

However, it’s not just visually impressive: with a 45-hour power reserve thanks to the 324 S C calibre, Patek Philippe has pulled out all the stops to create a timepiece which is a statement of accomplishment.

It looks great, is built to last, and is hugely in demand, which makes owning one all the more special if you can buy a Patek Philippe Watch

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001 at retail for £36,670 at the time of writing. 

 

7) Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001

 

This list of most the popular Patek Philippe watches would not be complete without Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, it has long been a contentious topic of discussion among horology fans. Some dismiss it as too radical, while others consider it ahead of its time.

Whatever your opinion on this divisive design, there can be no denying that the 5524R-001 iteration, with its warm brown dial and rose gold finish, is a sure-fire winner in the looks department.

Apart from the materials, nothing much has changed in comparison to the contentious 5524 model. As a pilot’s watch, it may feel like something of a novelty for Patek Philippe – but one look should be enough to change your mind.

The inclusion of a calfskin strap in matte brown, which utilises a three-piece fastening system, only ups the elegance factor.

 

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 - Source - Patek Philippe

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As a beautifully executed timepiece, the 5524R-001 has proved the naysayers of the original Calatrava Pilot Travel Time wrong. It pairs well with almost any outfit, features prominent, contemporary and legible gothic numerals, and remains hot in demand among horology enthusiasts.

It’s not the cheapest Patek on the market, but then again, it’s far from the simplest: the 5524R-001 is enhanced by an innovative Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax free-sprung balance wheel, which means it offers precision timing and tolerance of no more than +2 seconds per day.

For those who want the perfect combination of elegance and accuracy, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 is an ideal choice.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 at retail for £46,190 at the time of writing. 

 

8) Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

 

Released in 2022, the Patek Philippe 5373P-001 brought along their first ever left-handed chronograph.

 

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Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph - Source - Patek Philippe

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Fitted with a split seconds monopusher chronograph and perpetual calendar, the design utilises a ‘destro’ structure, meaning the crown and pushers are at 9 o'clock instead of their typical location at 3 o'clock. 

With the design catering for left handed watch peeps, you do not have to practise with your left to warrant buying a Patek Philippe like this. In fact, this model is extremely collectable due to its high standard of complications and the fact it's the first left-handed Patek Philippe has released for a while - 1927 to be precise! 

The case is solidly built from platinum and its diameter stretches to 38.8mm. This is the perfect protection for the manual wind calibre, the CHR-27-525 PS Q. It is the thinnest split seconds chronograph ever built which is an extremely impressive and collectable feature for those looking to buy a Patek Philippe

The dial is truly a work of art. Coloured in a charcoal shade which utilises the classic Patek Philippe graduation style as seen in models like the Complication 7234R-001, the sporty red hands are visibly pronounced against the dial.

With a black calfskin strap that is enhanced with sporty red stitching as a link to the colour of the hands, this watch can be suited with any outfit. 

It may be best to go for something as daring as the red hands and stitching such as a red tie or jacket in order to keep a consistent colour scheme. You can only buy a Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph upon request at the time of writing, but expect prices to be well into six figures.

 

9) Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001

 

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001 is a high-functioning watch that practically does it all. Unsurprisingly, it’s also incredibly difficult to come by.

Launched at Baselworld back in 2016, this rose gold version of the classic Aquanaut is among the most sought-after luxury timepieces in the world. Depending on who you speak to, it’s even considered the “Holy Grail” of Patek Philippe designs - which is great news if you have got one to sell.

The 5164R-001 contains a 324 S C FUS calibre which boasts an automatic 4Hz movement and 45-hour power reserve. This calibre also utilises a rather clever dual-time function, which can be controlled by a pair of pushers on the left side of the case.

The skeletonised travel-time hour hand can be hidden beneath the main hour hand when at home, and easily transitioned when in another time zone.

 

Aquanaut Travel Time - Source - Patek Philippe 

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Of course, Patek Philippe lovers will understand that this sort of functionality is nothing new for the brand – it actually dates back to the 60s – but it’s a nuanced and nostalgic addition to a modern model nonetheless.

This functionality combines with a luxurious rose gold finish to deliver a watch which is as desirable as it is practical which is why it is considered one of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. 

You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time at retail for £50,480 at the time of writing. 

 

10) Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-001

 

The Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is the nadir of complicated watchmaking at Patek Philippe. This model is the first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph to feature a platinum case, which pairs exceedingly well with a salmon dial.

Those with an interest in Patek Philippe watches will understand that platinum models are usually more coveted than their gold counterparts, and the 5270P-001 is no exception.



 

Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-001 - Source - Hodinkee 

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Materials aside, there is little from a design perspective to distinguish this model from the standard 5270. Our understanding is that Patek Philippe has chosen not to mess with perfection.

The only discernible difference is that this version features a diamond which has been carefully set between the bottom lugs – a tell-tale sign of a luxurious platinum Patek piece.

Fans of Patek Philippe watches will also be aware that salmon dials are largely reserved for exclusive collector’s items. On the 5270P-001 it works perfectly and contrasts well with the blackened gold elements adorning the dial.

The 5270P-001 is also notable as the first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph to make use of Arabic numerals. This results in a slightly less streamlined appearance but certainly provides the watch with more character.

The 5270P-001 is powered by the same movement found in the original 5270 model: the CH 29-535 PS Q. This 33-jewel, 456-part movement marks the end of Patek Philippe’s reliance on Lemania-based movements and offers a power reserve of up to 65 hours when the chronograph is disengaged.

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5270P in salmon at retail. You can buy it on the secondary market for around £200,000 at the time of writing. 

 

11) Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001

 

Unveiled back in 2013, Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001 first turned heads as the brand’s most complicated wristwatch of all time.

While it bears a lot of similarities with the original (5002) Sky Moon Tourbillon, the ornate casework and dial work are enough to make this timepiece one of the most sought-after Patek Philippe designs of the past decade.

 

 Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G - 001 - Source - Patek Philippe

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Like the 5002, the 6002G-001 features two dials and 13 complications. Both watches also possess two cathedral gongs, a minute repeater and a tourbillon. There’s little difference in terms of functionality either, as both display standard time, a perpetual calendar and moon phases.

On the rear, the dials feature astronomical functions, with the ability to display the northern sky and angular progression. However, the 6002G-001 goes one better and makes use of apertures in place of hands to display days, weeks, months and leap years.

The biggest differences between the 5002 and the 6002G-001 are largely aesthetic. Upon its release, Patek Philippe referred to this model as a “sculpture for the wrist” - and with a single glance, it’s easy to see what they meant.

Eloquent ornamental carvings, arabesque garlands and curved elements combine to deliver an incredibly precise case.

During the manufacturing process, involuntary movements or brief distractions would ruin the case, resulting in it having to be recreated from scratch. This level of attention to detail assures the place of the 6002G-001 as one of the finest Patek Philippe’s on the market.

In total, over one-hundred hours of craftsmanship are invested into the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001, with each engraving being met with the individual approval of the firm’s president Thierry Stern.

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001 at retail. You can buy it on the secondary market for around £2,000,000 at the time of writing. 

 

12) Patek Philippe Calatrava 5916J-001

 

Last but certainly not least the Patek Philippe Calatrava is considered by many to be the best dress watch of all time – and the Calatrava 5916J-001 is often referenced as the ultimate interpretation of a modern classic.

The case, which measures 37mm, is significantly larger than the original Calatrava. However, it’s also a lot slimmer, measuring in at just 7.62mm. A flat bezel and integrated lugs ensure that the 5916J-001 offers maximum comfort on the wrist while still looking sharp.

 

 Calatrava 5196J-001 - Source - The Watch Lounge

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A yellow gold case contrasts nicely with a brown, prong-buckle alligator strap, helping the watch to stand out nicely. It’s perfect for formal occasions but also boasts some serious engineering credentials, with water-resistance of up to 30 metres and a 215 PS manual-winding movement complete with Gyromax balance.

This list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches would not be complete if it did not include a Calatrava. 

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava 5916J-001 at retail. You can buy it on the secondary market for around £16,000 at the time of writing. 

 

Conclusion

 

It’s fair to say that Patek Philippe covers a lot of ground in its varied catalogue of luxury timepieces. From rugged diving watches to ornate dress pieces, there is literally something for all watch lovers to enjoy.

From an investment perspective, Patek Philippe's models make sound financial sense.

As you can ascertain from this article, many of the most popular Patek Philippe watches tend to appreciate in value over time which is ideal for those looking to buy a watch as prestigious as Patek Philippe. 

If you’re looking to buy a Patek Philippe watch to add to your collection or perhaps sell a Patek Philippe watch on the secondary market, you should consider contacting Chrono Hunter today.

Over the years, we’ve forged strong working relationships with the best suppliers and buyers in the UK, and we’ll always endeavour to beat any quoted online price via our network of trusted luxury watch retailers. For further information, please do not hesitate to get in touch.

 

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Further Reading: 

The Top 5 Luxury Watches Fit For London Fashion Week

Celebwatch: The Best Watches We Spotted At The Grammys

 

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