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Dubai Watch Week 2023: Chrono Hunter's Hot Picks Of The Best New Releases

“Our goal is to create an educational, experiential, and networking event like no other” Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi

Greetings from Dubai, Timelords! Or should that be مرحبًا (mrhban)

Dubai Watch Week 2023 sadly reached its climatic conclusion on November the 20th. And boy was it an immersive blast for enthusiasts, geeks and horophiles worldwide. Plus, there were a number of timepieces which did catch our attention. More on that in good time.

Ticking away since 2015, Dubai Watch Week has been throwing out horological good-stuff since 2015 after its foundation by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Running for 5 days, the event has covered a number of masterclasses and creative hubs, and even a plethora of valuations for your watches as hosted by Christies.

Since Dubai Watch Week’s inception eight years ago, the event is the world's largest watch fair in terms of luxury and exclusive brands that are on display. Boasting masterclasses, panels, brand exhibitions and even food concepts, the event is a must-see event for every manner of horophile.

We do not use must-see sparingly. In fact, the guys over at Boss Hunting also have the same opinion, stating that the event has become “...increasingly important inside the broader ecosystem of watch industry shows”. We can’t disagree with that, Timelords!

In terms of brands that have been on display during the event, 60 brands have flexed their horological muscle this year. And here they are in their full glory;

Akrivia / Armin Strom / Arnold & Son / ArtyA / Audemars Piguet/ Bell & Ross / BIVER / BOVET 1822 / Breitling /Bremont / Bulgari / Carl F. Bucherer / CHANEL / Charles Zuber / Chopard / Chronoswiss / Czapek / De Bethune / Dior / DOXA / DUKE / F.P.Journe / Ferdinand Berthoud / Frederique Constant / Genus / Gerald Charles / Girard-Perregaux / Grand Seiko / Greubel Forsey / H. Moser & Cie / Haute-Rive / HAUTLENCE / Hervé Schüchter / Hublot / HYT / ID Genève Watches / Jacob & Co / Konstantin Chaykin / La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton / LAURENT FERRIER / Louis Erard / Ludovic Ballouard / Manufacture Royale / MB&F / MING / Moritz Grossmann / NORQAIN / Oris / Rebellion Timepieces / Rémy Cools / RESERVOIR / Ressence / Rolex / Schwarz Etienne / Speake Marin / TAG Heuer / Trilobe / Tudor / Ulysse Nardin / URWERK / Van Cleef & Arpels / Vanguart / Vyntage Horology

Dubai Watch Week has already been cemented in greatness, winning the Special Jury Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2021. This year officially represents the 6th edition and with it, a fantastic range of new models to entice buyers…while people were trying their best to peer over the parapets of The Dubai International Financial Centre!

But that's enough of the preambles. Let’s get straight into the details behind the hot picks of the best new watches from Dubai Watch Week 2023.

Girard-Perregaux Aston Martin Neo Bridges

Girard-Perregaux have collaborated with Aston Martin ever since 2021, becoming partnering brands and highly influential to each other's operations. And like Spider-Man and Marvel, the luxury car brand has been in cahoots with another major star…but this time round on the silver screen. Daniel Craig.

The James Bond phenom and Omega flexer has been putting his pedal to the medal with Aston Martin since 1964 in Goldfinger, where James Bond drove the gorgeous DB5. Interestingly enough, the car is supposed to be the Aston Martin DB Mark III as per the novel… Things change, right?

When Timothy Dalton was James Bond, he was also spotted driving The Aston Martin V8 and Volante in 1987 “Living Daylights”. The cars evolved to the Aston Martin Vanquish under Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond in “Die Another Day” and subsequently Daniel Craig’s role took him under the hood of The Aston Martin DBS in “Casino Royale” 2006 and The Aston Martin DB10 in 2015 for “Spectre”.

Source - Girard-Perregaux

Take for example the past Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition which blends carbon and titanium released in 2022. Fast forward to this year which sees the unveiling of the new souped up yet highly fashionable Girard-Perregaux Aston Martin Neo Bridges. This high powered piece delivers enough style, durability and grace behind and in front of the wheel.

Taking inspiration from Aston Martin’s brand new releases, The DB12 Super Tourer, these luxury watches embody this brand new motor by designing them with the same refinement of the vehicle. With a case size of 45mm, they are crafted out of titanium which is effortlessly lightweight. Finished with a gorgeous black DLC sheen, the mystery is revealed within the skeletonised face.

Just to clarify how intertwined the car and the model is, the model features a few elements which closely mirror the features of the motor. Take note of the barrel at half past one that’s supported by one of the iconic bridges that’s famed by the collection. The barrel could easily be referenced as the fuel tank of the timepiece.

Speaking of the micro-rotor bridges and the barrel, they are built to resemble the brakes which are found behind the beautifully spoked wheels of the Aston Martin DB12. Sharp lines and excess skeletonisation showcase how slender the piece (and the car) is!

Girard-Perregaux utilises colour to expose parts that we may not have originally noticed. While the face is given brushed greys and matte blacks, there are tinges of colour in the form of prominent rubies and beautifully green bridges that stretch across the face. The green runs around the periphery of the dial, forming the minute track in the same illustrious colour.

Home to the Calibre GP09400-2164, this self-winding mechanical movement beats away at 21,600VpH and has a power reserve of 48 hours. Enough time to speed around the Le Mans racetrack at least twice.

Made up of 208 parts and fitted with 29 jewels, they are in safe hands with this movement. Sure, there may be no date function. But who needs that when you have the beautiful neo-bridge design that’s captivated connoisseurs at Dubai Watch Week.

- With a limited edition run of 250 pieces, you can buy a Girard-Perregaux Aston Martin Neo Bridges at retail for £32,100 (As of November 2023).

Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic

Like Ed Sheeran, Hublot loves a good collab. This is duly noted by their new works in association with artist Felipe Pantone, Nespresso made from recycled coffee capsules and UEFA, ensuring they remain the Pep Guardiola of the horological league.

Source - Hublot

In this instance, Hublot has joined forces with the guys behind Dubai Watch Week, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, and Calligraphy Artist Wissam Shawkat. And the full time result? Introducing the stupendous and brand new Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic.

Celebrating the 6th variation of the exhibition, you can get your hands on two different variations, one of which is crafted at 42mm and composed of black ceramic, while the 38mm version has a black anodized aluminium bezel featuring 36 brilliant cut black diamonds astride the 6 iconic screws.

However, there are more similarities to these than there are differences. Crafted out of black ceramic, the cases are polished like a mirror and shaped in the iconic circular design. The real glory comes in the form of a dial that may be to some of a Marmite number.

Love it or hate it, it is designed by calligraphy artist Wissam Shawkat, famed for his own calligraphic style “Al Wissam” which references a number of traditional scripts such as Sunbuli, Jali and Diwani. The matte black dial displays a rich tapestry of colours including reds, yellow and pinks.

While they may seem randomly placed across the face like a Jackson Pollock masterpiece, they are actually expertly designed to boast the Arabic words: “Al Zaman” and “Al Waqt”, both of which can be translated as time in English from Arabic. While you may use this as more of a creative piece than a timekeeper, take note of the sword shaped hour, minute and seconds hand that utilises a Hublot logo as a counterweight.

Powered by the Calibre HUB1110, it takes its heritage from the lusted after Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement. Although they have decided to move in-house to generate the 28,800VpH and modest 42 hour power reserve. Fitted with either a black rubber or an alligator strap, we think you’d look top notch with this strapped alongside a charcoal suit.

- You can buy a Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic at retail for around £10,900 for the 42mm variant or £14,200 for the diamond set edition (As of November 2023).

H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

Coldplay may have sung about “Yellow” but this timepiece is something not to feel blue about. The Streamliner collection is a widely celebrated line from H.Moser & Cie. Originally released in 2020 under the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, the collection has since expanded to include the Centre Seconds and Perpetual Calendar complications.

Source - H.Moser & Cie

CEO Edouard Meylan has been dazzling horophiles with an array of releases that we have covered here. Have a second to spare? You won’t be disappointed;

Taking influence from the inherently sleek and refined automotive and vehicle designs from the 1920’s, the Streamliner collection has continued its minimalist pursuit into the latest release, the Small Seconds Blue Enamel.

We think it’s important to note the drop between the two huge, yet unmistakably indie brands, H.Moser & Cie and MB&F. The new Streamliner Pandamonium, released for Only Watch 2023 late in August was another horological hit.

Made up in a steel case, the dial is given an aquamarine fumé sheen and a micro panda sculpture that's sat with a mixing desk and turntables. Crafted out of white gold and entirely hand decorated, this is a work of art that would put Cyril Kongo in his place, especially since it has minute repeater functionality with hour, quarter-hour and minute chimes.

But this latest model… This is just as special! Coming in at 39mm, they are the perfect size for the suit shirt loving gentleman, office exec or corporate bigwig. Surprisingly crafted out of steel, this material could easily pass as platinum or titanium as H.Moser opted for a beautifully sleek design with an exceptional brushed finish.

The face is where the fun is. Here, H.Moser utilises an enamelled design with an engrained, hammered-like, pattern onto a gold base. From there, you can expect three different colour pigments that are combined together to create a gorgeous fumé aesthetic. Contemporary yet timeless? That’s right!

The hour markers are small silvered batons while the hands are in a syringe style with a healthy amount of lume that follows from the middle upwards to the tips. There is a fantastic small seconds sub-counter located at 6 o’clock, that is effortlessly minimalist as its background blends in well with the fumé. This is in spite of the fact they choose to go with a snail counter instead.

Deemed to be H.Moser’s first ever automatic manufacture movement with a platinum micro-rotor mechanism, the movement can be viewed via the sapphire caseback, allowing the user to witness an array of beautiful finishes.

Water resistant to 120 metres, it is powered by the HMC 500 movement and enjoys an impressive 74 hours of power reserve. The watches are fitted with an integrated steel strap which would look fantastic against a crisp white suit shirt or a blue suede jacket.

- You can buy a H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel at retail for around £27,000 (As of November 2023)

Chopard Alpine Eagle Summit Collection

If you think that one luxury watch is simply not enough, you will be ecstatic to know that Chopard has filled your horological boots at Dubai Watch Week.

Call it an early Christmas present from us.

Source - Chopard

The Alpine Eagle luxury sports watches were originally known as the St. Moritz, as per its predecessor's title from the 1980s. Designed with a tonneau shaped casing, (Wait a tick Richard Mille this ain't your time!), the bezels are rounded and boast eight iconic screws. Well, the bezel and the case design has continued across these four new models.

Crafted out of yellow, white or rose gold, all of these watches are crafted at 41mm and boast a slight thickness of 9.7mm. Supported with crown guards and a screw down crown, you can be assured of 100 metres of water resistance…enough to flaunt it round the pool, in the shower or a gentle dive into that pool encased in that picturesque Portuguese private villa

Depending on the new model, you could find yourself dressed up in a number of different jewels. The bezel is raised and thoroughly polished, allowing each of the 36 gems across each model to be showcased with great aplomb.

To show you exactly how beautiful each model is, we have created a little table for you to peruse at your leisure.

Material	Dial Style	Type of Jewel
Yellow Gold	Golden Peak	Pink and white sapphires
Rose Gold	Pink Dawn	Spessartite and white sapphires
White Gold	Zinal Blue	Blue and purple sapphires
White Gold	Vals Grey	Tsavorites and white sapphires

All of the timepieces available feature a set of Roman numerals situated at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. For the rest, they are made up of small baton indices. Needless to say, all of them are coated with Super-Luminova, boasting a high degree of visibility in all circumstances.

Powered by the Chopard 01.15-C movement, the automatic calibre is COSC certified and made up of 196 components. Featuring 31 jewels with functions running the hours, minutes and seconds alongside a stop-seconds function, the calibre offers a 28,800VpH and a weekend-proof power reserve of 60 hours.

Secured with a complimenting strap in the same material as per each novelty, we can picture you wearing the white gold variants with a black suit, the rose gold version with a camel overcoat and the yellow gold edition with a sleek navy cashmere jumper.

- You can buy a Chopard Alpine Eagle Summit at retail for:

“Golden Peak” Ref. 295363-0002 – £76,200 (As of November 2023)
“Zinal Blue” Ref. 295363-1007 – £76,200 (As of November 2023)
“Vals Grey” Ref. 295363-1008 – £76,200 (As of November 2023)
“Pink Dawn” Ref. 295363-5013 – £69,200 (As of November 2023)

TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon H0 2T Dubai Skyline Limited Edition

If we say AP you say Royal Oak. So naturally, if we bellow TAG Heuer, you’ll immediately conjure up or scream the Carrera.

This Swiss brand has taken their most iconic collection, The Carrera, and kitted it out with the ultimate tribute piece to Dubai Watch Week. Trust us, this is no cabaret act.

Source - Haberdasher

Measuring 45mm, the TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon H0 2T Dubai Skyline Limited Edition is crafted out of titanium and undergoes a PVD coating. Admittedly, 45mm is pretty steep, even for the sporty Carrera collection, but it’s done so in a way that isn’t too overbearing to the user. The incorporation of titanium to ensure lightness meets a sound 100 metre water resistance.

The face is entirely skeletonised, entitling you a fantastic view of the anthracite baseplate and a fantastic outer flange that’s bolstered by a white second/minute track. Chronograph functionality is operated via the pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, both of which are coated in black PVD to be seamless with the case. The bezel gives another ode to Dubai by similarly being blacked out like the case, but instead of featuring “tachymetric” text at 1 o’clock, there is “U.A.E“ instead.

The minute counter based at 3 o’clock and the elapsed hours at 9 o’clock are sporty additions to the timepiece and are useful if you are racing around the track, or timing your run for that last minute train. Legibility will not be a problem for you either. The hands are rhodium plated and the hour markers are blue while slightly faceted. This does not detract though thanks to its generous dosing of Super-Luminova to allow for maximum visibility.

There is a sapphire crystal… but it isn’t all that it seems. TAG Heuer have opted for a blue tinged sapphire crystal with the word “Dubai” plastered centre stage. The Dubai Skyline is powered by the TAG Heuer 02T Tourbillon. Fitted with an integrated column wheel, they are COSC certified for maximum chronometric precision.

TAG Heuer models tend to have a date aperture at 6 o’clock, but this edition opts for a no date style, instead deciding to stick a very handsome tourbillon there instead to exude precision and effortless technical sophistication.

Running at 28,800VpH and offering a 65 hour power reserve, this is a brilliant piece for technical lovers and motor junkies. Fitted with a black alligator leather strap, they are perfect when partnered with a black leather jacket for those rebellious days, or utilise the moodiness of the strap to match with a navy turtleneck.

- You can buy a TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon H0 2T Dubai Skyline Limited Edition for approximately £19,200 (As of November 2023)

Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 ADMT and DMT Special Editions

“We chose to develop two watches from the all-purpose Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 in a special series exclusively for the dynamic and diverse UAE market. To celebrate the UAE’s world-class cities, we designed an Abu Dhabi Mean Time (ADMT) version in ice blue that pays tribute to the capital city Abu Dhabi and a Dubai Mean Time (DMT) version in bright blue that pays tribute to the city of Dubai.” Aed Adwan, Managing Director, Breitling Middle East, India and Africa

Source - Economy Middle East

You’ll find this info harder to come by than a Rolex Day-Date 40mm Platinum 228206 with ice blue Arabic dial, as worn by none other than legendary A-game collector Tom Brady. But of course we are always on top of our A-game when it comes to the latest releases and hottest timekeeping gossip.

Now, we bet they didn’t tell you about these pairs of beauties! Another exclusive drop came to Dubai Watch Week 2023…in the shape of a duo of special edition Breitling watches. Named the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 ADMT and DMT, they debuted exclusively for this special occasion, and are crafted to 40mm of steel with the iconic Chronomat case design. Incorporating a 60 minute bezel with a lume dot at 12 o’clock, each of the 15 minute intervals are slightly raised in order to boost legibility. Of course, the real point of beauty comes in the form of the dial across both versions.

One Breitling model is given a deep blue shade that may just drown in if you stare at it for too long! The other edition veers more on the side of Christmas cheer with an ice blue dial which may cause even the warmest gents to shiver. They are both constructed with dials based on 18K red gold plates.

The plate comes through via the large Arabic numerals which boast the red gold sheen in their highly unique design. Coated with Super-Luminova, they are extremely legible, yet incredibly stylish meaning you could pull the pair off in most circumstances.

Even the date aperture at 6 o’clock is fitted with Arabic numerals. That’s not all. For the ice blue version, the Breitling models are designed with an Abu Dhabi Mean Time timezone, while the other blue edition reads the Dubai Mean Time version. Sorry, Greenwich!

They are both powered by the COSC certified Breitling Calibre 32. Running at 28,800VpH, providing 200 metres of water resistance and offering 42 hours of power reserve, these pieces are not so great for leaving alone for the weekend, but then again… why would you? Showing avant-garde Arabic numerals within the iconic Chronomat case and having a COSC certified movement are just a few reasons as to why this is so great!

- You can buy a Breitling Chronomat GMT 40 ADMT Special Edition Ice Blue (A323989A1C1A1) and a Breitling Chronomat GMT 40 DMT Special Edition (A323989A1C2A1) at retail when the prices are released (As of November 2023)

Arabic Dials Are Hot Horological Property

They come in a variety of forms, from the floral finishes of The Rolex Datejust to the understated charm of the sweet California dial, as seen on a Panerai timepiece. Perhaps one of the most popular styles right now are Arabic dials which are clocking up horological miles with the good and the great in the celeb world.

Breitling Aviator - Source - Rolex Forum

Arabic Script Numerals (not to be confused with oversized (Arabic numerals) are defined as housing the standard 1-12 digits, but with numbers that are emphasised in Arabic. This isn’t a particularly new concept. In fact, brands like Rolex have been at the forefront of this innovation, including pieces like the oh so coveted Arabic Day-Date 228206 that Jay-Z and Tom Brady wear that’s become highly desirable.

They are not “typical” Rolex faces. They are generally after-market, meaning they are placed on by other companies for those connoisseurs who love to customise their pieces. However, Rolex have been known to release a few of their own Arabic versions, but kept them under lock and key for the Middle Eastern market only.

Brimming with Bugattis and gold Lambo’s, it’s no surprise these models tend to be snaffled up in next to no time by the Emirati and others with a limitless budget. When it comes to the secondary market, you can expect to be paying top dollar for them as they are so scarce. After all, not everyone can afford to travel to the Middle East just to buy a Rolex with an Arabic aesthetic!

Breitling has a past of Arabic infused faces. Take note of their Aviator 8 Day/Date Limited Edition in 2020 which were made specifically for the Middle East and capped at 250 pieces. They now followed suit by releasing Arabic versions which are also geared towards this territory.

That probably explains why they released it during this event! We recommend snatching these models up as fast as you can as they will undoubtedly be scarce in the western world.

Conclusion

A salivating range of top luxury brands have released their new pieces for the greater glory of Dubai Watch Week 2023. Like Julius Caesar, they came, they saw and without doubt conquered the minds of all devoted timelords.

We’ve seen the continuation of The Arabic dial craze from Breitling, following on from the highly desirable Rolex variations. We expect that when these hit the markers, they will be swept up like caviar at a dinner party. So keep your eyes peeled for those emerging watches. Offering a highly unorthodox style, they are unlike any other face on the planet, never let alone the market.

This is particularly because their appeal rests in the pieces being extremely rare and also signify a key moment in horological history for the Middle East, especially since they now have a growing marketplace in the watchmaking sector. It’s actually been found that Swiss Exports to The UAE for January to September are up 11.5% year on year and boomed 29.4% when compared with the same period in 2021.

From the genius of H.Moser with their extremely understated Streamliner release to the high climbing Chopard Alpine Eagle Summit Collection in all their bejewelled reverence, this year's celebration has been a fantastic event for all manner of horophiles, fanatics or keen investors.

Until next year…it’s been emotional.

Paid up and ready to land your next model? Want to buy a TAG Heuer or buy a Hublot in time for next year’s Dubai Watch Week? Then contact ChronoHunter here. Whether purchase or sale, receive multiple offers from our established selection of luxury retailers and choose which one is right for you. We are revolutionising the face of the industry thanks to multiple offers, quick turnaround, peerless service and our close knit network of the finest hand picked retailers.

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