Geneva Watch Days 2023: H. Moser & Cie Drop Two New Endeavour Watches Including A Tourbillon Concept In Vantablack

 

Geneva Watch Days 2023 has been a fantastic ride if not a little short! From August 29th to September 2nd, we saw some tasty looking releases from Girard Perregaux and their Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech to the downright crazy MB&F Horological Machine No.9 ‘Sapphire Vision’...which looks more like a microscope than a timepiece. 

One brand that’s really taken the event by storm is H. Moser & Cie. Why, you ask? Well, they have re-done the fantastic Endeavour collection with two new hot releases. While we are not on the clock just yet, the watches have been given updated materials and fresh designs which we certainly approve of. And how about their unique Vantablack? 

Without further ado, let’s get into the details!

 

Brief History Of H. Moser & Cie

 

Created by Heinrich Moser in 1828, they were formed in St. Petersburg and release around 3000 watches per year. 

Streamliner Flyback - Source - Reddit

 

 

Outside of horology, he created the Moser Dam in Schaffhausen between 1863 and 1866, one of the first ever hydropower stations. This allowed for his factories to be powered and allowed Schaffhausen to become a reputable source of production. 

He had clients extending to Russian princes and even Vladimir Lenin was known to have owned a Moser piece. After Heinrich Moser died, his business was sold as he had no heirs. The brand joined the Dixi Mechanique Group during the Quartz Crisis and joined the MELB Holding Group in 2012. 

Through the constant moving and shifting, they have been prolific when it comes to releasing top pieces. From releasing the Perpetual Calendar in 2006 which won the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix and introducing the exceptionally precise Straumann Hairspring at Baselworld 2007, they now have a strong portfolio of watches, including the Pioneer, Streamliner and, of course, The Endeavour. 

They have been extremely active recently. Releasing the tantalising Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum, the Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon Dial with a gorgeous radial fumé, and smoked salmon aesthetic and the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic with a highly discerning chronograph outlay, Chrono Hunter has been bowled over with their releases. Have a breather for a minute…we’re just getting started!

A stunning model they’ve recently released is the H.Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium. Given a gorgeous fume dial, a minute repeater mechanism is visible on the dial, providing a great acoustic and visual sound. Look closely and you’ll see a miniature DJ Panda made from white gold, made by hand and given turntables that are made into the axis of the hammers on the dial. Yes, this is a crazy timepiece! 

Of course, now they have gone crazy again with the latest Endeavour Tourbillon Concept and Centre Seconds Vantablack models in a gorgeous red gold sheen. 

 

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack

 

The Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack is a great addition to the burgeoning collection. Following on from the same edition from 2022 which was released in a 40mm stainless steel case. 

This model upgrades the piece to a level of luxury that can only be attained by the horological greats. 

 

Construction Of The Model

 

The main theme of the Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack, as per most of the other H.Moser & Cie models, is minimalism. On the face of it…well’ there’s not much going on with no brand mention, “Swiss Made” or logo anywhere. Yet this is what sets them apart from the rest in the luxury category.

Source: Brands Site

 

 

At 40mm, just like its predecessor, the model is a perfectly accessible size for the modern wearer. The case has been noticeably enhanced to red gold, a very luxurious alternative to the steel casing of the past. While steel is perfect for the sporty allure of the collection, there’s something magical about red gold, especially when it’s linked in with the highly avant-garde, Vantablack face. 

So, what is Vantablack? It is the darkest man-made material ever made. To get briefly scientific on you, it is made up of millions of carbon nanotubes. These tubes capture 99.965% of light. Why would you want it so dark? 

When the sun glistens through the trees on a late summer walk, sometimes it can reflect off the crystal and block the view of the face. Now, it absorbs all of this, meaning there is categorically no chance of a reflection impeding your view. 

The timepiece follows the same form as the older watches. Its circular face, minimalist leaf hands and slim golden indices stand out sublimely against the model's sheen, especially since it acts like a black hole, allowing the golden aesthetics to be projected. 

They have made the decision not to place this model into the “Concept” collection. However, a lot of similarities are present, including the highly minimalist design codes and deferring brand logos. Nevertheless, they have included indices which aren't usually typified of the collection.

The large, red gold conical crown with knurled edging features “M'' which is a reference to the brand's title. Everyday model? Maybe not but a dressy piece, you bet your bottom dollar, pound or rupee this one might be for you!

 

Technical Features Of The Model

 

The model is powered by the HMC 200. 

Source: Brands Site

 

 

As an in-house calibre, the movement prides itself on offering the basics to a high degree, such as the hours, minutes and seconds. Utilising the automatic winding system, enhanced with a bi-directional pawl and the classic double hairspring build, the timepiece runs at 21,600 VpH, and the engraved gold rotor ensures a 3 day power reserve. As reliable as an energetic racing timepiece but more dressy, this is a stunner to flex at weddings, Bar-Mitzvahs and boardroom showdowns.  

Fitted with a grey kudu leather strap and a seamless 18K red gold pin buckle, the piece is beautifully presented with refinement and elegance offered in reams. It would suit the black tie event due to its minimalism. It would even look acceptable with a chocolate leather jacket. We recommend only moody colours due to the intensity of the shade. It really is that dark!

Its highly innovative dial style, precious metal build and continuation of the prestigious collection are suitable for gentlemen looking for a potential investment opportunity. 

 

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept 

 

The watch offers a different perspective on the other model. Who needs Gerald Genta when there are watches like these getting pulled out!

While the Centre Seconds oozes simplicity and minimalism, this edition leans into the “Concept” aesthetic, meaning minimalism is taken to the extreme. Do away with your indices, as this is the piece for the horological flex King or metropolitan man about town.

 

Construction Of The Model

 

We really weren’t joking when we said subtlety. This is just the bare essentials for horological lovers. There are not even the classic vintage dress styles of Roman numeral indices…Just like Chrono Hunter, they are bringing in a horological revolution of their own!

Source - Brands Site

 

 

The historians will know that they have dabbled with tourbillon complications in the past. For example, take a look at the Venturer Dual Time in 2014 and subsequent Concept collection from 2017.

Why is this model any different from them? Featuring a highly in demand red gold case at 40mm, the timepiece is smaller than the previous 2019 edition which came in a white gold case at 42mm. They have intelligently kept themselves in tune with the modern consumer, and their request for smaller timepieces. 

While the blend of white gold and the dark sheen is nice, the combination of red gold is far superior, offering a warmth that cannot be attained with any other material. Featuring a 60 second tourbillon which runs at 6 o’clock, the skeletonised complication looks sublime against the midnight aesthetic.

It adds a degree of complexity which is enhanced due to the minimalism of the timepiece. Featuring red gold leaf hands, the face leaves nothing else for us to analyse or read. It’s nice to see a timepiece that doesn’t rely on extensive complications like the Vacheron retrograde Traditionnelle Tourbillon or the outrageously complex Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20+ complications to grab our attention. 

There’s no colour needed either for a dial as pure as silk.

 

Technical Features Of The Model

 

The model is powered by The HMC 804 automatic movement. 

Source: Brands Site

 

 

The complication function adds another dimension to the movement, as it counteracts the effects of gravity in two ways. Named the one minute flying tourbillon, the movement is bolstered with the patented double hairspring which allows for potential errors to be compensated for. 

Running at 21,600VpH and offering a 72 hour power reserve, you could take a weekend break to Paris and return with this piece still working. Let’s be honest. You wouldn’t want to take this off anyway!

Fitted with a black alligator strap and a gold folding clasp, the entire piece keeps with the moody allure, perfect for those afternoon cocktails which quickly turn into midnight whiskies by the fireside or beachside. 

We recommend wearing a navy suit to boost the glamour of the dial or keep things sharp with a white suit shirt. Its awesome dial, sumptuous red gold precious metal build and high tech complication mean that this is a possible investment piece for any budding investors. 

 

How Much Does The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and Tourbillon Cost?

 

You can buy a H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon at retail for around £67,000 at the time of writing. 

You can buy a H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack at retail for around £22,000 at the time of writing.

 

What’s Our View Of The Two New Releases?

 

As luxury watches that are released amongst the creative absurdity and dastardly designs of The Geneva Watch Days, we really enjoy the Centre Seconds and Tourbillon editions. 

They manage to involve the much talked about Vantablack colour without making it seem like a rehash of previous models. Its rich colour scheme and strong red gold precious metal presence allow for the piece to be worn as a dress piece, and not be too ostentatious. 

The model is entirely polished which further pertains to the dressy and showy allure of the editions, complemented with the pitch black, Vantablack dial that allows for the perfect background for both the golden indices and hands. The involvement of the complication is a stroke of genius. Who doesn’t like skeletonisation against the matte aesthetic of the dial? In fact, don’t be in the black, time peeps. 

If you want to buy a watch with an openworked design, why not consider our top skeleton watches? These include the new Richard Mille RM 30-01 that has received a welcome facelift from 2011, The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Chronograph and the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Boutique Edition Watch.

Since Moser’s tourbillon edition doesn't have indices due to its associations with the Concept collection, the presence of the complication at 6 o’clock is a welcome addition. This particular lineup is yet to not amaze us. The guys at Chrono Hunter HQ are falling in love!

 

Other Specs Of The H. Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and Tourbillon

Chrono Hunter appreciates that you are all very busy people. So, here is a handy breakdown for those looking for a quick horological fix. 

Model Name	Reference Numbers	Dial Colour	Strap	Material
Tourbillon Concept Vantablack®	1804-0403	Vantablack	Black Leather Strap	Red Gold Case
Centre Seconds Vantablack®	1200-0411	Vantablack	Grey Kudu Strap	Red Gold Case

	Centre Seconds Vantablack®	Tourbillon Concept Vantablack®
Movement	HMC 200	HMC 804
Functions	Hours, Minutes	Hours, Minutes, Tourbillon
Case Back	Sapphire	Sapphire
Water Resistance	3ATM (30 metres)	3ATM
Case Thickness	11.2mm	10.7mm
Crystal	Sapphire	Sapphire

 

Conclusion

 

They have taken the Geneva event and the horological world by storm. As a fresh lick of paint on the collection, we don’t need Mick Jagger to Paint It Black when it comes to these two new pieces. Both timepieces keep the momentum of the brand this year, especially since they utilise the already used Vantablack dial style, but modernise it with a fresh precious metal case. 

Shine on you crazy diamonds. The dial is incredibly legible, given the pristine dial that counteracts reflections to an unbelievably high degree. It also adds a dressy aesthetic with the simplicity of the minimalist hands and indices on the centre seconds version. The complication function is a great use of technical skill that boosts the modern design of the watches. 

Admittedly, we wouldn’t wear this when out on a morning run or diving headfirst into the ocean. This is a piece that should be worn for those special occasions in your life. First interview coming up or an important board meeting? This is the piece for you. 

The Endeavour collection is brimming with history. Representing their first timepiece when they restarted in 2005, it was originally known as Perpetual 1 and it was a watch with a perpetual calendar, a function which was unseen in the horological world.

Its contemporary sizing and charming designs represent their pursuit of modernisation and innovation. We can appreciate the mechanical excellence of the piece, especially the tourbillon edition, not to mention the adherence to minimalism, throughout the entirety of the collection's history. For now, it’s time to sit back and enjoy both editions. 

Mind you, it’s a good job they won’t leave you squinting in the pitch black!

Want to buy a H. Moser & Cie? Want to save money on your next purchase? Save yourself time and get in touch with Chrono Hunter. Contact us here to find out why we are the number one source to buy a watch or sell a watch. With outstanding reviews on Trustpilot, peerless service and unrivalled brand knowledge, we ensure you can benefit from the true value of a timepiece Simply fill in the details on our website or download our app today to start your horological journey with us.

 

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Further Reading: 

Brand History - H. Moser & Cie

 

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