Question Time: Are Breitling Watches a Good Investment?

 

In brief, some Breitling watches offer exquisite precision, Swiss accuracy and a plethora of models with some vintage and limited edition pieces holding value over time. We will now discover in more detail below whether their models are a good investment, the brand history and explore some popular models.

Now time peeps, if you are looking to buy a Breitling you have landed on the right page. Let’s first consider the all-important question every collector and enthusiast asks: do these wrist companions hold their value? Considering the Saint-Imier manufacturer is one of just a few to equip their timepieces with COSC-certified movements and responsible for the iconic Navitimer used by the military and pilots, it places them in good faith with avid horophiles.

Let’s be honest, their success is no fluke. Founder Léon Breitling didn’t just wake up one morning during the year 1884 and magically conjure up the world’s first wrist-based chronographs with an independent pusher. If only life was that easy. No, instead, Léon was a skilled watchmaker and he spent many years perfecting precision chronographs and timers for both industrial and scientific purposes.

It wasn’t until the 1950’s that the legendary Navitimer made its debut. That’s the fancy timepiece often seen with a finely ratcheted or beaded bezel and built-in slide rule bezel which is more famous than Mr. Beast. A true monster of a novelty in the community, creations like this took (ahem) time, attesting to their commitment to technical mastery. But what does all this mean for the value of their designs? Are they a good investment? And do they hold value like Rolex? 

It’s time to find out…

 

A Quick History Of Breitling Watches

 

You’ve got Rolex with the coronet, TAG Heuer with the shield and then you have a sexy, swirly ‘B’ flanked by two wings. Any guesses? Well, this is Question Time after all. This angelic logo of course belongs to Breitling.

Founded by Léon Breitling in 1884 in Saint-Imier Switzerland. Léon was no ordinary gentleman, but a skilled watchmaker, who at the tender age of 24 founded his own company. His passion for timepiece manufacturing clearly showed, as did his proficiency with sporty chronographs. The brand shone brightly, eventually going from a small workshop to a fully-fledged factory by 1892.

Source: Vintage Watch inc. 

 

 

Some of their earliest achievements include a patented movement with an 8 day power reserve, a pulsograph and chronograph with two-fifths of a second accuracy, something totally unheard of during this period. Within a decade, the company had sold more than 100,000 chronographs and stopwatches. We weren’t kidding when we said Léon was a genius.

Léon’s son, Gaston, eventually stepped into his father’s shoes in 1914 and proved once and for all that horology ingenuity runs deep within the family. In just a year, he achieved the gold medal for the world’s first chronograph with an independent pusher. This might not sound anything out of the ordinary in today’s modern world, but back then, this was more exciting than the iPhone 15.

By the time Willy arrived onto the horological scene in 1932, taking over from his father Gaston, the Swiss manufacturer was already well established as a manufacturer of sublime watches. But to cement it further, they began producing their own in-house movements and eventually created the ever-legendary Navitimer with its signature slide rule bezel.

1952 Navitimer, Source: Watches&Culture

 

 

In the years that followed, the brand continued to launch industry-changing models with unique portmanteau names like the Chronomat, Transocean and Superocean. So yes, they are no strangers to incredible innovation, and they certainly have no shortage of fantastic designs in their modern-day portfolio. 

So as a customer in today’s world looking to buy a Breitling, where is the best place to start?

 

Popular Breitling Watches

 

The Swiss powerhouse’s current portfolio is pretty jam-packed with incredible models and collections, so knowing where to look for their best watches can feel a little overwhelming. Lucky for you, Chrono Hunter has done all the homework for you and narrowed it down to their most popular designs so you don’t have to waste any more precious seconds.

 

The Navitimer

For many fans of Swiss watch brands, just a mere mention of Breitling is granted with the response “Navitimer”. Think of it like a game of Marco Polo, just instead of a blindfold, fans are blinded by the Navitimer. In all fairness, they have good reason to be as it is an iconic pilot's instrument. They were one of the first brands to allow aviators to make vital calculations in the cockpit, such as working out the average rate of speed and fuel consumption. All of this was thanks to the Navitimer’s instantly recognisable slide rule bezel.

Source: Breitling

 

 

It’s not just us mere folk that praise the Navitimer either. You have the legend of the slicked quiff, hand jiving John Travolta sporting his own beaded bezel pilot’s chronograph. While certainly available with a time-only display, the Navitimer Chronograph is a popular design in the brand’s lineup, especially those powered by their in-house 70-hour power reserve B01 movement.

It’s not just king of the quiff, John Travolta that’s been spotted wearing these designs. Chefs like Gordon Ramsay and James Martin like to saute in style wearing their own Navitimer. Miles Davis, Tommy Lee Jones and Jerry Seinfield are also partial to a legible dial and beaded bezel. 

 

The Chronomat

Another popular pilot’s model, albeit one with a distinctively different aesthetic is the Chronomat. While the Navitimer is the classic, sophisticated brother, the Chronomat is akin to the cool uncle with fancy integrated bracelets, legible dials and ratcheted bezels.  

It first landed in the cockpit during the 1980’s when the Swiss watchmaker created a chronograph in collaboration with an Italian aerial squadron called Frecce Tricolori. As you’d expect from a team of Italian gentlemen, they wanted elegance, style and durability, as well as chronograph complication and a unique bezel. And that has to include four rider tabs for protecting the crystal. 

Today’s Chronomat collection offers all that plus some new and improved in-house mechanical movements.  

 

The Emergency

One of the most popular luxury watches among timekeeping folk looking into investing is the Emergency. This world’s first wristwatch to include an authentic dual-frequency distress beacon, is as serious and as cool as it sounds. Plus it offers a unique hybrid dial with both digital and analog displays.

This particular device emits an insanely high-pitched frequency intended for satellites to warn rescuers that there’s an adventurer out there in need of help. In effect, this is the Bear Grylls of timepieces. None of the other top luxury brands have managed a design quite like this...

Source: Breitling

 

 

The Emergency Orbiter 3 is one of this collection’s best-known models, and since there were only 1,999 pieces made, it has seen a pretty decent price appreciation since its launch in 2000. Low supply means high demand, and so if you’re looking for a timepiece to invest in, you won’t go wrong with an Emergency…that is if you can find it on the second-hand market. 

 

Top Time

Finally, there’s the Top Time, a retro chronograph from the 1960’s with a famous “Zorro” dial. That’s the cool black mask Antonio Banderas wears while kicking Anthony Hopkins butt with a sword and bullwhip in the 1998 Mask of Zorro. It wasn’t intentional on the brands part, but fans of the luxury name noted how the shape of the mask is literally printed across the centre of the Top Time’s display.

The modern-retro Top Time chronograph is often seen with pastel-coloured displays and “squircle” counters. Like fish and chips, they go together perfectly, especially when found on the wrists of vintage motorcycle riders.

The Top Time was revived back in 2020 and has since become another possible investment piece for collectors. Sean Connery was kitted out with one of these very designs in Thunderball, which fetched £103,875 at a Christie’s auction in 2013. In an incredibly smart move, the original owner swept up the model at a car boot sale for only £25. Now that’s what you call great timing!

 

Are Pre-Owned Breitling Watches A Good Investment?

 

Breitling has a lot going for them. They have a rich history, a vast portfolio of durable and attractive designs and plenty of in-house technologies to rely on. They are clearly keen to stay on top of modern trends and are happy to appease those of us with aviation and dive-related hobbies. But like cars and other luxury products, you’ll typically pay a premium to be a first-time owner.

Buying pre-owned means you avoid this, where you can obtain a timepiece from your favourite manufacturer at a better price. Those noted by the iconic B-shaped logo are no different. They typically decrease in value by 10%-40% as soon as they leave the store and are strapped onto your wrist. This is very different to Rolex for example, who have many second-hand models selling higher than retail.That’s good news for us, though. Second-hand models from the Saint-Imier company don’t experience these same price hikes, which makes them ideal for purchasing on the pre-owned market. 

 

Frequently Asked Questions

 

Does Breitling Hold Value Like Rolex?

 

No they don’t. As touched on above, they are considered a quality, luxury company but generally, the better the brand recognition, the better resale value of their watches.

I think every collector and Old Father Time knows at this point that Rolex watches are some of the most highly collectible, investment-worthy timepieces on the market right now. There’s been a pretty obvious price increase for Rolex as increasing numbers of rock stars, influencers and sports legends strap sought-after Daytonas and Submariners to their wrist. 

Mind you, there’s also the waitlist which for many Rolex designs are as long as one of Erling Haaland’s flowing golden locks. But is Breitling as good for investing as Rolex? First off the bat, we should probably consider exactly why Rolex watches are worthy of investment. Of all the brands out there, Rolex have mastered their marketing. 

It’s “on point” – as the kids call it – and has been an investable accessory that everyone wants to get hold of…ever since Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English channel on the 7th of October 1927 with the Oyster Perpetual. This was the world’s first waterproof timepiece and in turn, she became their first Testimonee. 

How have they done this? It’s largely down to the exclusivity and rarity of their designs, which has made many of their models like the Daytona and Submariner go above and beyond their original retail price. Their impressive craftsmanship and rarity is attracting younger generations of collectors which only adds to the endlessly long wait-lists. 

The crown-adorned powerhouse doesn’t neglect their manufacture, using their “Superlative” signature as a promise of quality and reliability. This is basically Rolex’s own version of a verified blue tick from X, the artist formerly known as Twitter. 

It’s a promise to the wearer that there is chronometric precision of the self-winding movement and decent levels of waterproofness to withstand typical day-to-day wear. It’s pretty clear to see why so many enthusiasts and collectors want to buy a Rolex.

But wait a minute, doesn’t Breitling use only chronometer-certified movements, have wonderfully engineered waterproof cases and plenty of celebrity clientele? Shouldn’t that mean they are a good investment?  The short answer to this question is yes. 

Furthermore, it's worth noting that many of their designs are half the price of Rolex and the Saint-Imier high-flyer produces several quartz powered models. On the flip side, Rolex is exclusive to mechanical movements only. Both brands are though the only two Swiss maisons to house exclusively chronometer-certified movements within their cases. And that deserves a mighty big tick from us.

As the market is as volatile as a Tyson Fury press conference, it’s difficult to compare a Navitimer or Chronometer to a Datejust or Submariner. The Submariner, on its launch in 1954 made history as the world’s first 100 metre waterproof wristwatch, setting the blueprint for the future of dive models. This certainly gives Rolex a decent head start in the investment race. 

Demand or limited editions equals price appreciation in most scenarios: the more popular or sought after it is, the more likely it will sell for more. But you will find that as long as you take good care of your wristwear, the price will appreciate, if not at least hold its value.

 

Is Breitling Considered A Luxury Watch?

 

This one is easy to answer. Yes, they are one of the world’s leading luxury brands. Everything this Swiss powerhouse achieves cements them as a luxury company to take notice of. In the last 130 years, they have established themselves amongst the greats and many horology connoisseurs who have made it their only goal to buy a Breitling.

Sure, they’re not quite topping the charts with brands like Rolex, or Patek, but they have the reputation, price points and quality craftsmanship worthy of the top 10. Think of them like the Guns N’ Roses. They certainly have a large following and no one is denying their stone-cold karaoke classics and yet they’ve never had a UK number one.

Chronomat, Source: Breitling

 

 

We’d argue that the Swiss hustler has been a luxury household name since the very beginning of their history. To be considered even remotely luxury, you have to stand out, and the B-shaped powerhouse was doing that as soon as they were out the door. Their chronographs alone have outed them as horology heroes; do we need to remind you that they revolutionised this complication? 

They moved the start/stop pusher of the chronograph from the crown to 2 o’clock in 1915, then separated the reset function from the start/stop in 1932. What other brands can say this? None. Time for a mic drop? We aren’t done yet, time peeps.

In more recent years, the brand’s luxury status and reputation has been taken to a whole new level since CEO Georges Kern took control back in 2017. Realising there was some streamlining to do in the brand’s portfolio, Kern stripped back the 600-wide product line and trimmed it to just 150 references.

Their offerings are now clear and concise, presented under three collections: air, with its Navitimer model, sea with the Superocean, and land with the Chronomat as well as other dress watches. 

Despite Georges Kern stripping back the brand’s collection, that’s not to say there’s a shortage of luxury designs to choose from. We’re talking hulking sports models, elegant dress timepieces, sophisticated chronographs and nautical dive instruments. There’s plenty of limited edition models that are always worth investing in too, since they hold their value purely down to their restrictive nature.

They are one of only a few luxury brands with experience in every genre. They create their designs to the highest standards. I mean just look at the Navitimer’s bezel. The sheer complexity of its beaded architecture and the innovation of the slide bezel rule function ensures these are professional innovators who know their horological beans. 

Source: Archinfo.ch

 

 

Their “Made by Breitling” label attests to their rigorous testing, use of premium materials and their strict quality control. All their designs are powered by in-house movements which are assembled in their factory on the outskirts of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Here you’ll find their team of talented horologists bringing to life mechanical and SuperQuartz movements with pristine chronometer-level accuracy.

 

What Kind Of Person Wears A Breitling? 

 

Since their designs are bold, confident and stylish, it makes sense for men and women with the same characteristics to want to buy their designs. We’re talking successful businessmen, pilots, world-class athletes and all round over-achievers being tempted by the brand’s dedication to quality. We’ve mentioned some of their celebrity ambassadors already, but you can add Brad Pitt, Harrison Ford, Buzz Aldrin and Bruce Willis to the timekeeping list.

You’re someone that appreciates time – literally – being spent on a watch’s build. Sure, money invested into marketing campaigns is important, but a true horological fiend appreciates knowing the brand has devoted time and money into the technologies that lie within. That goes for everything from the brand’s in-house movements to their retro inspired Rouleaux bracelets.

You don’t have to be John Travolta or Brad Pitt with a cool leather jacket and classy Ray-Ban aviators to boot – although that combination would certainly look the part with the Navitimer or Chronomat. You are someone that values quality craftsmanship, first rate precision, top notch materials and excellence. It doesn’t hurt if you are looking to make a solid investment.

There’s no shortage of offerings in the Swiss brand’s collection and each model eyes up a totally different wearer. This is the beauty as there is a timepiece for every discerning wrist. For example, The Navitimer will flirt with pilots, aviation nerds and those who want to buy a Breitling with legible displays and finely ratcheted bezels. Meanwhile, the Chronomat is just as much a sports timepiece as a special occasion luxury accessory.

 

Chronomat, Source: Breitling

 

 

Then for the real sports enthusiasts amongst you, you’re wasting time if you’re not already studying the Professional and Superocean collections.

 

What Makes Breitling So Special?

 

The Swiss powerhouse has come a long way in 130 years with an extensive history, brimming with horological innovations and patents. And in doing so, the brand has built a cult following of connoisseurs that appreciate the value of their designs. But what makes them so special?

 

Reason 1: Exclusively Chronometer-Certified

They are only one of two brands to place in-house, chronometer-certified movements in all their watches, including mechanical and quartz movements. The latter is their SuperQuartz calibre, their Marvel superhero battery-operated movement that promises to be ten times more accurate than a standard quartz movement.

 

Reason 2: Created The First Ever Chronograph

You know those stopwatches for your wrist? Those instruments called chronographs? Well, our B-shaped brand is something of a technical whizz in this domain. They developed the chronograph as we know it today with separate reset and stop/start pushers. They are behind the world’s first flyback chronograph too.

 

Reason 3: Designed For The Skies

You don’t need to have a pilot licence to appreciate a deep lying aviation heritage…but it certainly helps. The Saint-Imier brand has an extensive collection of luxury pilot’s instruments like the Navitimer including limited editions that feature logos and names of specific military groups and aircrafts. Our favourite? Look out for the Navitimer End of Boeing 747 Tribute which is a great one for potential investment.

 

Reason 4: Choice

They have designs to suit every taste, personality and lifestyle including Navitimers, Chronomats, Superoceans and Premiers. There’s cases in titanium, steel and gold plus examples adorned in coloured gemstones and diamonds. There’s a beautiful selection of colourful dials too – albeit none quite as outlandish as the Oris Kermit, but they deliver an impressive array of hues in green, blue, red, pink, silver and pretty much every other colour of the rainbow.

 

Reason 5: Environmentally Conscious

Finally, they’re committed to environmental sustainability. Alongside surfer Kelly Slater and her fashion label "Outerknown", this brand delivers cases and straps engineered from recycled materials. They are a proud partner of the Ocean Conservancy, which is committed to protecting and cleaning our world’s oceans.

 

How Often Do Breitlings Need To Be Serviced?

 

According to the Swiss outfit, a maintenance service is recommended every two years. Think of it like an MOT for your wristwear, except rather than swapping out the tyres and changing the oil, the brand’s talented horologists will be checking the movement, functions, water resistance and giving it a thorough clean from bezel to pushers.

Source: Breitling

 

 

If you have chosen to buy a watch and you want it to retain its value, then servicing is important. Your flex companion is an investment that deserves all of your time in order to take care of it properly. We promise the small cost of a service is worth keeping it in a great condition, so if you ever decide to sell it on the pre-owned market, you can demand the highest possible price available. That’s where we come in…

At Chrono Hunter, you can sell your watch effortlessly. With our peerless service and incredible know-how, we will get you multiple offers for your piece in a matter of hours from our trusted selection of luxury retailers. You’ll receive offers directly to your email or via our app so you can choose which one suits you best. Our fantastic team of specialists are experts in buying and selling luxury timepieces and they’ll get you a no obligation estimate so you can decipher the true value of your timepiece. 

Even if you are not looking to sell your watch second-hand, you still want to make sure it’s ticking along seamlessly and for as long as possible. That mechanism inside your timepiece is a delicate thing, and to keep it in tip-top shape, an engineer will need to have a good look inside and give it a thorough clean for maintenance purposes. 

They will keep the case, crystal, dial and strap looking as fresh as a daisy so that it gleans spectacularly and demands the fullest attention on your wrist.

 

How Many Breitlings Are Made Each Year?

 

It’s not always easy to establish the number of timepieces made by brands during a particular year, simply because those values are not published. Nevertheless, all luxury timers that have been COSC-certified have to be registered.  Since our B-shaped manufacturer is one of the only two brands that certify all their timepieces as chronometers, we have the figure right here.

Only 2% of Swiss brands are able to meet the stringent requirements of COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) and can attest to an accuracy of +4 to -6 seconds per day. Breitling and Rolex are the only brands currently promising 100% of its production COSC-certified. Because of this, we know that as of 2022, the brand made over 190,000 watches.

This is a hefty increase from the 140,000 models made in 2021. And we have none other than Georges Kern to thank for much of it. Over the last two years, their market share has increased by 0.4 per cent according to the Financial Times and they now appear in eleventh place amongst the top Swiss watch brands. 

This places them above Tudor, the sister brand of Rolex.

Navitimer, Source: Breitling

 

 

Their investment in new technologies and willingness to condense their collections has helped raise them in the luxury ranks and certainly attracted the keen eyes of investors too. The more popular they become, the more likely these timepieces will hold value. So that comes to our final, all-important question: are Breitlings worth investing in? And more importantly, do they hold their value?

 

Do Breitling Watches Hold Their Value? 

 

The short answer to this question is no. They typically lose somewhere between 10% and 40% on retail. In the same way your car loses value as soon as you drive it off the lot, your timepiece is highly likely to drop in value as soon as you strap it to your wrist or take the branded bag out of the store.

However, that’s not always the case. There are certain limited edition or vintage models that make a great investment and will hold value. It is these kinds of models that are worth looking out for if you’re wanting to start investing and buy a watch.

Sure, we have nothing against you wearing your watches for pleasure. But it’s worth remembering too that investing in a timepiece from the Swiss brand guarantees you a design with a first-rate heritage, exceptional craftsmanship and unbeatable precision thanks to those intricate in-house movements hiding within.

Look, their designs don’t have us queuing outside stores for hours at a time like the Moonswatch release. But they guarantee quality movements and top notch materials like ceramic and titanium which is exactly what you want to look for when investing in a timepiece.

If you buy a pre-owned Breitling at a great price, there's a chance it could hold value in the long run. But, it’s worth noting this is subject to numerous factors including market conditions, provenance, condition of your timepiece and supply and demand. Almost every watch loses value the second you wear it, so investment potential is never guaranteed.

As always, some models will hold their value better than others and how you look after your timepiece will affect the resale value on the second-hand market. How about we start by detailing some of the best models for investment.

 

Best Breitling Watches To Invest In

 

We’ve said it before, but we’ll say it again, the Navitimer is one of the brand’s most iconic watches and a great choice if you’re looking to buy a watch for investment.

As one of their pilot’s watches, more recently, the business reintroduced the AOPA wings to the 12 o’clock position making these aviator tools all the more popular. Packed with endless amounts of chronograph, time-only and GMT versions, there’s definitely something for every flexer.

A quick look on the second-hand market shows the Navitimer holding its value well. It seems the rarer, earlier and better-preserved models make the best for investing. A model known as the “pre-806” that was produced for only one year in 1954 is a great example. This can now be found in good condition for upwards of £14,000 (as of September 2023). 

One of their best designs to hold value is the Emergency. This iconic, life-saving timepiece is not an easy find, but if you catch sight of one for just a second, we think you should grab it while you can. The Emergency Orbiter 3 is coveted for its rarity, as only 1,999 models were made. These limited edition designs make the demand for these timepieces even higher, which in turn raises their prices.

The Emergency is an adventure-worthy design, especially if you’re the sort of person that likes to live life in the fast lane like a souped up F1 driver. Maybe you just often find yourself in the middle of nowhere or you like to climb up to near-impossible altitudes. 

If that sounds like you, then the Emergency model with its innovative distress beacon is a possible potential investment. You won’t find them in the brand’s current portfolio though, but instead on the second-hand market anywhere upwards of £3,000 at the time of writing.

Top Time, Source: Breitling

 

 

Like the Emergency, other limited edition models from the manufacturer will hold their value due to their scarcity. Some of the modern-day Top Time models we’ve seen have proven popular with young professionals and female collectors. Their pastel-coloured “Zorro” dials are an unusual sight and embody the Swiss brand’s retro inspired personality.

Finally, we can’t close this chapter until we’ve talking about their most expensive timepiece of all time: the Bentley Flying B J28362. Created in partnership with the British car manufacturer, this solid white gold, diamond decorated timepiece cost more than an actual Bentley car. 

Looks like you’ll be dropping the top down with this beauty. Investing in a design like this would have set you back $255,000 once-upon-a-time and since it was limited to just 50 pieces, it has held its value well.

 

Conclusion

 

So, let’s head back to the original question: do these watches hold value? Our answer is no, not always. These watches typically lose between 10-40% in value after retail. That’s not always the case though, especially with those rare and more sought after editions. Exclusive designs like the Navitimer and Emergency mentioned above are proof of that. 

Following Georges Kern’s take over as CEO, it’s clear that the Swiss watchmaker is continuing to grow and overtake other big brands in the industry. With this in mind, we can’t help but think that now may be the right time to start investing, especially if this success and popularity continues to grow.

That being said, they still have a little way to go if they want to compete with the second-hand prices of brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe. Some Rolex watches are doubling and even tripling in price due to their popularity but then again, Rolex’s retail prices start almost twice as high as what Breitling produces which is largely down to brand exclusivity.

The rarer the watch, the more valuable it will become, so if you are looking to start investing or buy a Breitling, consider spending a little more on a unique line or a special edition. After that, make sure you take good care of it, and we have no doubt your model will stand the test of time, just like the brand itself, while having the ability to hold or increase in value.

At the end of the day, it’s all about supply and demand. If your model is an exclusive design in good condition, then it’s highly likely it will hold value and make a great investment piece. Although every timepiece is susceptible to losing value, It really comes down to several factors including;

• Provenance
• Condition
• Current market conditions
• Supply and demand

Whether buying or selling, chat to Chrono Hunter for a no-obligation estimate. We understand the market like no other and can ascertain the true value of a watch thanks to our expert team who have unparalleled brand expertise.

Until next time…

Want to buy a Navitimer or Chronomat at the most competitive price? Or perhaps you’re ready to sell your watch and swap it out for a newer one? If that’s the case, then contact Chrono Hunter to find out exactly how we can help.

Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy a watch or sell a watch. Boasting dedicated service from start to finish of the purchase or sale, check out our incredible reviews on Trustpilot to see why so many people choose us. Our established network of luxury watch retailers will send you multiple offers within hours, if not minutes and accept the one which is right for you.

 

Discover, hunt, buy, sell.

 

Further Reading:

Are Cartier Watches A Good Investment?

 

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