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2023 New Tudor Models: Black Bay Burgundy Bezel, Opaline Dial “Pepsi” GMT, Two Tudor Royal Variations, Black Bay 54

Watches and Wonders 2023 is the pre-Easter gift that keeps on giving with a plethora of new drops from Rolex like the 1908 and Titanium Yacht-Master 42, IWC, Panerai, Cartier and Tudor.
Tudor unveils several models including a burgundy bezel Black Bay and icy polar white dial “Pepsi” GMT.
The Black Bay 54 gives a nod to the brand’s first vintage dive watch, the Tudor Submariner Ref.7922, while the Tudor Royal range enjoys two exciting colourways - salmon and chocolate brown.

Well, how are you managing so far? It’s almost fever pitch at Watches and Wonders 2023 and we are not even at the weekend! We have noticed a pioneering evolution in design on several of the brand new Tudor models that have hit Geneva just a few days ago. The trend though is very much on revamping old classics like the Royal collection, dating back nearly seven decades. But time is not on our side, you loyal enthusiasts as the releases are coming thick and fast. Here’s what Chrono Hunter has learnt about Tudor’s new releases at Watches and Wonders 2023.

The New Tudor Black Bay - Burgundy Bezel

Inspired by the retro dive watches from Tudor’s range during the 50’s, no serious enthusiast wouldn’t have a Black Bay in their collection. Be it a one piece or six piece set, the legendary “Snowflake hands" are a symbol of the collection since their humble beginnings in 1969. This time, you will find them featured on the third iteration of The Tudor Black Bay.

Source: Tudor

Haven’t We Seen This Before?

You are correct, you clever lot. Launched in 2012, The Black Bay, let’s call it 1.0, did have a burgundy bezel. Yet the design, technology and visuals on this third-gen watch has come a long way since then which is there for all to be seen.

Now METAS certified, while the burgundy bezel remains true to its values, the Master Chronometer certification standard does not, as well as a slimmer case and array of strap choices.

What Has Changed On The New Black Bay?

We are coming to that all in good time! Subtle tweaks and refinements can be seen on both the inside and outside one of the most impressive and rugged dive watches of recent years Top-notch precision has been assured via METAS certification and independent accreditation, captivating new timelords. Plus accuracy is guaranteed by way of exposure to fields of 15,000 gauss which cannot be bad in anyone’s timekeeping books.

Like the original Black Bay, it remains at 41mm wide, staying true to the original model, the vertical sides of the case are much sleeker, perhaps to attract Gen Z consumers. Word on the horological street is there are many under 25s who are in attendance at Watches of Wonders 2023, exposed to the marvels of watchmaking across these 48 spectacular Maisons. But this revised version benefits from a number of different other tweaks, in particular the crown with a slightly more toothier appearance and an updated bezel edge. This sits perfectly along the case while the date has disappeared from this Black Bay 3.0.

Source: Oracle Time

Meanwhile the crown is based on the style you would normally associate with the Black Bay Pro. Distinctive and fetching, we do like the slight tweaks afforded to the new Black Bay which emanates a genuine Neo-vintage vibe. And the black slightly raised domed dial is not missed either. This is given a new sunburst finish making it flashier than Piccadilly Circus. “Master Chronometer” can now be found at 6 o’clock, attributed to its latest movement with the minute hand enjoying additional tapering. Driven by The MT5602-U Calibre it does say both COSC and METAS certified on Tudor’s videos at the time of writing. Hmmm.

Hours, minutes and seconds are displayed on this incredibly accurate yet robust timepiece with a rotor composed of tungsten monobloc. Boasting a 70 hour power reserve, take it on a long weekend break or jet off at the last minute for a few days without having to worry about winding it. We also like the vintage style second hand which harks back to Tudor’s initial dive watches.

T-Fit Clasp Strap System

Whether fit for a deployant rubber strap or steel Rolex “Jubilee” style bracelet, we must give props to their new array of strap choices. Fully equipped with five individual settings, the Tudor T-Fit rapid adjustment clasp, straps or bracelets can be altered up to 8mm. Dress it down on the rubber strap for a more casual Sunday lunch look or up for an elegant demure with the focus on the central polished links, this is certainly in line with older models of the Black Bay. There’s more time peeps as Rolexes little sibling provides a delicious quick easy removal system without the need for any tools.

What’s Our View?

Instantly recognisable to many enthusiasts and collectors, the original dive watches have cemented their place in horological folklore. However, by mixing traditional design with groundbreaking craftsmanship, this is not a return to former glories by any stretch of the imagination. It merges what Tudor are renowned for since the end of the 60s while pushing ahead with contemporary watchmaking standards delivering a wonderful third iteration of the Black Bay.

Retail Price: Buy a Tudor Black Bay starting from £3,460 for the rubber strap up to £3,720 for the steel bracelet.

Other Specs:

Reference: 7941A1A0RU / Water Resistance: 200m / Power Reserve: 70 Hours / Bezel: Unidirectional and rotatable / Frequency: 28,800 bph / Case Material: Stainless steel and Aluminum bezel / Limited edition: No

Tudor Introduces Two New Colours To The Royal Collection

Source: Tudor

Next up is an update to the Tudor Royal lineup and various sizes have appeared from Watches and Wonders 2023. Available in 28mm, 34mm, 38mm and 41mm case diameter, two new accents have been added to the collection, namely salmon and two-tone chocolate. But this is no red herring. This Swiss brand really does believe in the revamp this year. Originating from the 1950s, the Royal has fallen by the wayside somewhat but nonetheless is still worth a look before you decide to buy a Tudor Black Bay or the oh so hot Pelagos 39mm

What’s So Special About The New Tudor Royals?

Whilst they share the signature characteristics with the others in the line such as the notched bezel, they are more of a unisex style watch that could look ideal on both ladies or gents. A bold ploy you might think but this Swiss powerhouse fully understands their market as is the case with the Black Bay sizing.

Tudor Royal Salmon Dial, Source: Tudor

We think it's novel to have some new dial colours and as a result, ensure the number of variations on the Royal now sit at 70. Lots of choice for would be enthusiasts, although not as many as the 1926 model which has more than 100! Made from stainless steel, both the case and bracelet are satin finished giving a lovely glean to this particular model. But don’t expect to find the unique T-Fit clasp adjustment system on this watch. I hear the collective sigh.

But we are here to talk about the dials right? Boasting a glorious sunray finish, salmon and chocolate brown are on the horological menu for the Tudor Royal 2023. Salmon dials are very much de rigour in watch circles as seen in our best salmon dial picks like the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetuelle Calendar or the gorgeous A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon.

As seen on the GMT Master II models unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, it seems two tone is having its day in the sun again as the chocolate brown dial has been given this horological makeover. Notice the gold hues on the case, bracelet as well as the dial with yellow gold hour markers and hands…maybe an alternative to the GMT Master II? Brimming with nostalgia, we do like the visuals which will appeal to many retro watch lovers looking to buy a Tudor. Despite precise COSC movements, ETA movements are still housed in these Royal models, outlined as follows;

28mm version - T201 calibre
34mm/38mm versions - T601 calibre
41mm - T603 calibre

What’s Our View?

As classy as wearing that new Prada suit to that swanky new office on Wall Street, sports chic with a touch of dressiness can be seen throughout the Royal range. Sure it may have a notched bezel and display Roman numerals but we think they have nailed it as the rather understated number in the catalogue. More Jimmy Osmond than Donny Osmond, Warm, fuzzy tones and linear heritage aplenty, these timepieces will have lots of pull with enthusiasts and collectors alike who are fans of the integrated bracelet instead of the more traditional steel sports watches.

If you want to buy a Tudor with salmon dial in steel, retail prices start from £1930 up to £2060 while the two tone chocolate brown and steel starts at £2,890 up to £3,070.

Other Specs:

Reference (Salmon version) 28300, 28400, 28500, 28600 / Reference (Chocolate version) 28303, 28403, 28503, 28603 / Power reserve: 38 hours / Water Resistance: 100m

The “Pepsi” GMT Model Receives New Polar Opaline Dial

With all the hype surrounding the Black Bay of late, the brand has also done remarkably well when it comes to their GMT range.

Opaline Dial on the Black Bay GMT, Source: Tudor

What Is A Traveller GMT Watch?

Popular with enthusiasts, a true GMT watch setting can be found on this timepiece that served originally for the purposes of recording Greenwich Mean Time. However, a traveller GMT timepiece is slightly different. If the watch has a GMT movement the hour hand can jump either backwards or forwards every 60 minutes. This is normally done by pulling the crown where you will hear that one satisfying click.

Many brands produce this type of traveller GMT watch such as Omega and Rolex. What is the benefit? Once you land in your destination or just before take-off, you have the ability to set the time according to the local time zone instantaneously. Rotating once per 24 hours, wearers can check if it’s night or day. In addition, a fourth hand can be seen on the dial that in most cases is a different tone or slightly tapered when compared to the main hands. This time round, the GMT has been announced with an icy white or some say off-grey/silver finish.

Since 2018, the “Pepsi” bezel has been synonymous with the Black Bay GMT. But like a vintage whisky, it just gets better with age. Available as a steel version only, the black dial is out and the opaline dial is very much in, featuring silver hands and indices. COSC certified, it is powered by Tudor’s MT5652 calibre which is on all GMT models and includes a free-spring balance wheel among other components. This silvery hue from the dial is a rather nice addition to the GMT lineup with contrasting markers

What's Our View?

Source: Tudor

A new iteration of the GMT…we are all for that! The Opaline is attractive and gives it a certain edge over other GMT models presently. The “Pepsi” bezel is a winner and contrasts nicely against the polar white matte dial. Aviation, vintage and sports fans will no doubt be tempted by this evolutionary watch. While Rolex and Tudor are renowned for producing black dials for their sporty numbers, we are keen to see them branch out into polar white, opaline or off silver.

Buy a Tudor GMT “Pepsi” for the retail price of £3,590

Other Specs:

Reference: M79830rb-0001 / Dial: Black, domed / Case Diameter: 41mm / Water Resistance: 200m / Case Material: Stainless Steel / Power Reserve: 70 hours / Strap: Available in either jacquard fabric or stainless steel

Tudor Black Bay 54

Leaning towards the vintage side of the Black Bay collection, unveiled in 2012 comes the all new singing and dancing Black Bay 54. Paying tribute to Hans Wilsdorf’s younger sibling, The Tudor Submariner from 1954, there is plenty of investment potential when it comes to retro models with its Valjoux 722 automatic calibre.

What Is It All About?

Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7922, Source: Swisswatches Magazine

1950’s Submariner watches are exceptional, housing the calibre 390 and 395 movements and manufactured by Rolex for the brand. Better still, early dive watches from this manufacturer are highly coveted among inner timekeeping circles (best keep that one under your hat!) with military inspired models highly sought after, especially the iconic Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 from you guessed it…1954. And it is this exact inspiration that is the brainchild behind the exciting launch of the Black Bay 54.

It was only in 2018 when The 39mm Black Bay 58 made a resounding success amid consumer choices of case sizing that saw a penchant for smaller vintage sized models. And Tudor gave it to them in spades. Historical lineage and a reduction in case sizes catapulted the Black Bay 58 and remains one of the best dive watches around. Fast forward to Geneva and they are it again with an even smaller number - The 54. Now, the first ever diver produced by Tudor is given a nod and thrust into the horological limelight at Watches and Wonders 2023.

Introducing The Black Bay 54

Based on the legendary Tudor Submariner 54, visuals wise, the new Black Bay 54 retains the same look when compared to the modern collection. Made from stainless steel, this on trend craze of slimmer watches sees the round case decrease to 37mm, just like the original. Compact and easy on the eye and wrist, it fits like a dream while many enthusiasts will be more than pleased with the smaller dimensions.

Source: Tudor

Details have been taken from the 1954 Submariner with the gold and red bezel markings gone in lieu of silver, while the hands and hour markers have been given a slight revamp while paying homage to the original with the gilt dial vintage look. The winding crown is positioned at 3 o’clock and benefits from the same snazzy aesthetics again from the vintage 54. The black and gold dial remains with the rose brand emblem also located on the crown. On the unidirectional bezel that rotates, we like the chunkier rugged teeth style which makes it feel far more durable. A slightly raised domed sapphire crystal sits nicely on top of the dial with a fitted screw-down caseback on the back of the 54.

Source: Tudor

Although the gold finishing does enhance the dial, it cannot replicate its predecessor entirely. But vintage lovers will see enough detail from the ref.7922 in this model. Snowflake hands are there as predicted with their shield logo above Tudor at 12 o’clock. Note, the minute hand is slightly tapered towards the bottom that can be seen on the latest gen Black watches launched at Watches and Wonders 2023.

Calibre MT5400

COSC certified (sorry METAS lovers…looks like it’s been lost in the Swiss mail!) The 54 is powered by the Calibre MT5400. This automatic movement has a wealth of features from a balance bridge and variable inertia balance wheel to a silicon hairspring offering non-magnetic properties. Beating at 4Hz, they assure us it will maintain time to -2/+4 seconds daily while the 70 hour power reserve ensures it is the ideal weekend away watch. Minimalist yet effective, the mainly brushed and sand-blasted elements offer not much in terms of decoration. But it doesn’t matter in this instance.

What’s Our View?

Source: Tudor

Like at the end of the Sixth Sense, this has been an unexpected plot twist concerning the new addition to the Black Bay lineup. This is given the Fifty-Eight is 39mm, already catering to many enthusiasts with smaller wrists looking to buy a Tudor. Nonetheless, it is a pleasant addition that will see many collectors snap it up on both the primary and secondary market. Many though will adore the overall look, feel and size of the one and only ref. 7922, bringing a touch of nostalgia to every watch enthusiast's wrists. A shade less pricey than its bigger brother Black Bay models, this timepiece delivers contemporary features that make it sit alongside today’s Black Bay collection.

We predict you may even see more colours and different materials used. As the original dive watch was only produced with a black dial and stainless steel, the brand has stayed true to its horological roots, resulting in an impressive tribute to one of the ultimate dive watch champions of our time.

Buy a Tudor starting from £3,030 RRP

Other Specs:

Reference: 79000N / Straps: Rubber in three individual sizes or 3-link riveted stainless steel bracelet. Both come complete with Tudor’s T-fit clasp / Water Resistance: 200m /

Conclusion

And one more thing. Not as riveting as let’s say the Black Bay 54, Tudor have unveiled updates in the form of the classic Black Bay 31mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm. Or in reference terms, 79600/ 79640 / 79660 / 79680. The perfect go-to everyday driver, these now include blue anthracite and light champagne dials. If you want to buy a Tudor from this range, then retail prices start from £3,110 up to £3,370. A small point…these are actually more expensive than the Black Bay 54 oddly enough! So, another major brand is done and dusted. Honestly gents…there’s no time to sit down for a minute at Chrono Hunter HQ as the releases come thick and fast.

UPDATE - 2PM 29/03/23

In fact, by the time I finish this sentence, I can announce, hot off the Watches and Wonders 2023 press by mid-afternoon on Day 3 the following;

Baume & Mercier have unveiled their iconic 39mm Riviera ref. 10720.
Marking 60 years of the high performing Carrera, TAG Heuer introduces the pioneering Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon models powered by their in-house TH20-09 tourbillon movement.
Hublot announces three new versions of the Big Bang Unico with an all-new funky square design.
Bell & Ross launch an intriguing addition to the Professional Collection in the form of the BR 03-93 GMT Blue showcasing a GMT function (a firm favourite among watch pros) with grey and blue accents.

More to follow…

Want to be the new kid on the block with a fetching new timepiece from Watches and Wonders 2023? Looking to sell a Tudor Black Bay and upgrade to buy a new Black Bay 54? Then contact ChronoHunter here. Save money on your next watch the smart way and make a purchase or sale with us today. Thanks to our peerless service, Trustpilot reviews and top notch expertise, we are your essential source when you come to buy a watch or sell a watch.

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