The Top 12 Most Expensive Watch Brands And Their Net Worth
“Money, money money, must be funny, in a horological world” Okay, ABBA never actually sang these precise lyrics, but the point still stands…
The watchmaking world is a massive luxury industry which has a vast number of timekeeping players involved. If we look at the comparison over a period of 12 months between June 2022 to June 2023, this sector has boomed by 14%. Taking that into account for the first half of the year, the horological industry has jumped up by 13.3 billion francs to be precise.
If we look at more large-scale statistics, forecasts predict that Swiss watches will jump from £48.3 billion in 2020 to approximately £100 billion by 2025. The pre-owned watch market will also be hopping like a hyper frog. Predictions find that the market for vintage and pre-owned watches will jump to 79 billion euros (or around £70 billion for the Brits) in 2033 as opposed to the 25 billion euros figure (around £22 billion) in 2022.
In terms of revenue for each brand, there is a fascinating trend of the young boys slowly overtaking the grand predecessors. To save you time, we thought we’d input the top 10 performers into a handy table which you can peruse at your leisure. Just to note, the last available data is from 2022 from Morgan Stanley:
BRAND |
REVENUE |
UNITS SOLD |
Rolex |
9,300 million CHF |
1.2 million |
Cartier |
2,750 million CHF |
620,000 |
Omega |
2,470 million CHF |
560,000 |
Audemars Piguet |
2,010 million CHF |
50,000 |
Patek Philippe |
1,800 million CHF |
68,000 |
Richard Mille |
1,300 million CHF |
5,300 |
Longines |
1,208 million CHF |
1.7 million |
IWC |
908 million CHF |
150,000 |
Breitling |
860 million CHF |
230,000 |
Vacheron Constantin |
825 million CHF |
32,000 |
The Industry as a whole rests in a couple of players' hands. Here’s another handy table to outline these key figures:
BRAND |
PERCENTAGE OF INDUSTRY |
Rolex |
30.9% |
Swatch |
19.8% |
Richemont |
19.5% |
LVMH |
6.3% |
Patek Philippe |
5.1% |
Audemars Piguet |
4.7% |
Richard Mille |
2.7% |
Breitling |
2.6% |
Others |
2.6% |
(Statistics rounded to 100%)
Right then. We’ve seen the broader stats, we’ve seen which brands are the high performers…but here are a few popular questions and funky facts about excess luxury and worth.
Which brand is the most expensive watch?
The most expensive brand is Rolex with an estimated net worth of around £7.1 billion. Some other expensive brands are part of conglomerates, meaning that the total value of Richemont with brands like IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre bring in figures of around £12 billion.
What is the No 1 expensive watch?
The most expensive timepiece in the world at the moment is the Graff Diamonds Hallucination which is valued at approximately £43 million. There are a number of close seconds and thirds such as Graff Diamond’s The Fascination which is valued at around £31 million. Take a look at other brands like Patek Philippe which has models like the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 6300A-010 which is valued at around £23.5 million.
Which is the No 1 watch brand in the world?
The number one horological brand in the world is always up for debate. After all, Blancpain is the oldest watchmaker, Patek Philippe has released one of the most expensive timepieces behind Graff and other brands like Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Rolex are all adorned and desired by celebs and fans alike. We hate to sit on the fence, but it really does come down to personal opinion!
It’s time we got into it don’t you. Let’s give you the silicon hairspring and balance wheels of each horological brand as we run through the top 12 most expensive brands and their net worth!
Rolex
Synopsis Of The Brand
Rolex was originally named Wilsdorf and Davis in 1905 before becoming Rolex in 1908.
Paul Newman Daytona - Source - Reddit
Rolex have been major figureheads in the horological industry since their inception. Creating a vast portfolio of unrivalled watches, stemming from the Rolex Explorer to the Rolex Daytona, Sea-Dweller and the epic dive model the Submariner, they are arguably the most expensive brand by net worth.
From creating the first waterproof and dustproof model to conquering Everest and the deepest depths of the ocean, Rolex’s clever innovations like the twin-lock winding crown and Ring Command bezel ensure the quality of these most famous of luxury watches.
Now owned by The Hans Wilsdorf Trust since 1960 upon its founder's death, this luxury brand is entirely self-sufficient, down to creating their own materials and pieces like Everose gold and Rolesor. This dictates its production figures as stipulated in the codes of trust. Sometimes it pays to keep it in the family.
Key Collections
- Rolex Daytona - The Rolex Daytona was released in 1963 and epitomises the enduring racing spirit of Rolex. Produced in a variety of materials like steel and platinum, The Rolex Daytona is a top collection and investment piece for petrol heads and racing fiends!
- Rolex Submariner - Released in 1953, The Rolex Submariner was first to be water resistant to 100 metres. Now available in yellow gold, steel or duo materials, you can get your hands on a veteran of the diving world which has been a consistently excellent investment opportunity for those looking to buy a Rolex!
- Rolex Day-Date - First released in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date was the first model to feature the day and date spelled out in full. It wears the President bracelet as an ode to its luxury, elegance and status symbol.
It features a variety of materials such as yellow gold and white gold.
Top Three Most Expensive Rolex Watches
- Rolex Daytona 6239 - Originally owned by Paul Newman and sold at a Phillips auction in 1968. You can buy a Rolex Daytona 6239 for around £15 million as it was sold for! Given to her husband by Joanna Woodward, this edition is the second most expensive model sold at auction.
- Rolex Daytona 6265 Unicorn - The Daytona 6265 Unicorn is crafted out of white gold with a black dial and strapped on with a one of a kind “bark” style bracelet. Its unique white gold construction as opposed to its purely steel or yellow gold build makes this a one of a kind edition. In 2018, A Daytona reference 6265 Unicorn fetched around 5.3 million at a Phillips auction.
- Rolex Bao Dai 6062 - Released at Baselworld in 1950, it was the first with a triple calendar moon phase and waterproof case. Nicknamed after the lavish living Bao Dai Vietnam emperor who bought it at a boutique in the USA. The Bao Dau 6062 sold at auction for an astonishing £4 million in 2017.
A Few Achievements and Accolades (Timeline)
- 1910 - Rolex is the first to receive Swiss Certificate of Chronometric precision for it’s Oyster Perpetual
- 1926 - Rolex produces the first ever waterproof case named the Oyster case that repels dust and water.
- 1945 - Datejust released, representing the first self-winding movement to showcase a date aperture.
- 1947 - Rolex broke the sound barrier on the wrist of pilot Chuck Yeager.
- 1953 - Rolex conquered Everest on the wrists of Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay
- 1953 - Submariner becomes first model to reach 100 metres of water resistance
- 1956 - The Milgauss was created as a solution to scientists at CERN who needed a model that could repel Gauss.
- 1960 - Rolex, through the Deepsea Special hits the Mariana Trench, the deepest point of the ocean and comes up unharmed.
- 2012 - The feat would be repeated as Rolex hit the Mariana Trench again with the updated James Cameron edition.
The Net Worth Of Rolex
It is estimated that Rolex has a Net Worth of around 8 billion CHF or around £7.1 billion to us Brits.
Patek Philippe
Synopsis Of The Brand
Established in 1839, Patek Philippe was and has been a strong contender for the most expensive luxury watchmaking brand in the world.
Grandmaster Chime 6300A - Source - Patek Philippe
As a family owned business, they were founded by Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe. As one of the oldest companies globally, Patek Philippe has over 400 retail locations around the world and even has its own museum in Geneva!
From their innovative creations of the keyless winding and hand setting system in 1845 to creating the most complicated mechanical monstrosity in 1989, known as the Calibre 89, Patek Philippe have seen and done it all!
Key Collections
- Nautilus - Created in 1976, the Nautilus is a sports watch with an inkling of beauty and dress inspiration. Designed by heralded maker, Gerald Genta, this timekeeping gem instantly rose to stardom and helped Patek Philippe out of the Quartz Crisis rut.
- Calatrava - Released in 1932, The Calatrava is one of Patek Philippe’s oldest collections. Suffice to say, it’s still looking just as impeccable today! Unlike Old Father Time, this classic of watches hasn’t aged an iota. The Calatrava was released to support Patek Philippe through the misery of the Great Depression and is famed for its elegance and refinement.
- World Time - Introduced in 1939 with reference 1415, the collection boasts a world time complication, allowing the user to view all 24 time zones on the dial face. As the first company to bring in such a feat, the collection is a beauty to behold.
Top Three Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches
- Grandmaster Chime 6300A-010 - As a specific build for the Only Watch Charity Auction in 2019, the ticker represents the only Grandmaster Chime in steel. With around 20 complications embedded into this incredible timepiece, it’s argued as the most complicated Patek Philippe to date. A Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 6300A was sold at auction for a cool £24.4 million.
- Patek Philippe 1527 Perpetual Calendar - The 1527 represented a significant turning point for Patek Philippe in terms of design innovation during the period of 1943 to 1944. With vintage aesthetics like an old school dial face and bulbous 37mm case (which was considered rather large at the time!) A Patek Philippe 1527 Perpetual Calendar was sold at auction for £4.46 million.
- Patek Philippe 2499/100P - The 2499 reference was produced in 1951 and capped at around 10 releases per year for 35 years. Due to its inherent rarity, its sublime compilation includes a perpetual calendar, moon indicator, chronograph and precious metal construction. A Patek Phillipe 2499/100P was sold at auction for £2.8 million
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1845 - Patented a keyless winding and hand setting system.
- 1868 - First ever Swiss model released, named Calibre 27368
- 1923 - World’s first split-second chronograph model introduced (124 8244)
- 1925 - First ever perpetual calendar released (97 975)
- 1933 - Henry Graves Supercomplication created serving as the most complicated model with 24 complications.
- 1989 - Topped complication bill by releasing the Calibre 89 incorporating 33 complications
- 2014 - Released the Grandmaster Chime 5175, one of the world's most complicated editions with 20 complications.
The Net Worth Of Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe has an estimated net worth of around £2.3 million.
A. Lange & Söhne
Synopsis Of The Brand
Established in 1845, A. Lange & Söhne were originally created in Glashütte, Germany.
The 46177 - Source - Christie’s
Following a period of Soviet Union occupation in Germany after their loss in WWII, they were nationalised and any trace of it was removed in 1948. But we cannot turn back time now…we must press on.
It took the acts of Walter Lange to found Lange Uhren GmbH in 1990 and re-introduce them back into civilisation.
With their highly specialised units like the Lange 1 collection, A. Lange & Söhne are the German superstars that continue to rock our world. Think Rammstein and Kraftwerk combined. Designs like solid-silver dials (the silver coming from their hometown) and big dates are common and pertain to the uniqueness of them.
Nicknamed the King of complications, here is a snippet of their most important watches to date.
Key Collections
- 1815 - Released in 1995, the collection was originally disguised at the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite in 1994. Released as an ode to Ferdinand Adolph Lange who was born in 1815 and founded the company in 1845, the collection boasts various complications like annual calendar and perpetual calendars. 2023 signalled the comeback of the 1815 Rattrapante which was hot horological property upon its release art SIHH 2013.
- Zeitwerk - Released in 2009, the Zeitwerk collection is hot horological hardware. One of the most highly respected watches of all time for its sheer technical prowess, it is the first mechanical model to showcase the time from left to right. The model relies on a patented mechanical system that operates three hour and minute discs accurately. In recognition of their ingenuity, the Zeitwerk won the Aiguille d'Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie the same year of its release.
- Lange 1 - Released in 1994, the collection represented the welcome back gift following their reintroduction back into society. The watches are entirely unique, boasting outsized date displays and asymmetrical dial designs. Cough cough, it’s won, wait for it…45 prizes since its release!
Top Three Most Expensive A. Lange & Söhne Watches
- A. Lange & Söhne Pocket Watch 46177 - Released way back in 1904, the model features a variety of complications like a minute repeater and split seconds chronograph. An A. Lange & Söhne 46177 sold at auction for around £940,000.
- A. Lange & Söhne 1815 "Homage to Walter Lange" - By now, you must know that Walter Lange is the gentleman that restored the brand in 1990 after German reunification. As such, a stainless steel edition was made in 2018 , capped at 263 released and was the only steel edition out of others like pink gold, white gold and yellow gold. It was the first 1815 unit that featured a jumping seconds hand. In 2018, the 1815 "Homage to Walter Lange" sold for around £670,000 at a Philipps auction.
- Grand Complication - Released in 2013, the edition houses a chiming mechanism with both a grande and petite sonnerie plus a host of other features like a minute repeater and chronograph. It is the most complicated wrist worn timepiece ever made in Germany and capped at 6 releases. In 2013, the Grand Complication sold for around £2 million at auction.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1864 - Three quarter plate first created. This design not only helps its stabilisation but looks iconic on their array of luxury watches.
- 1931 - Balancing Spring Patent invented by Richard Lange. The Elinvar balance spring revolutionised the industry as it removed any effects of temperature on the balance spring, including elasticity. This means the spring lasts longer and doesn’t impact the accuracy.
- 1997 - The Zero Set Mechanism - This highly skilled self winding movement stops the balance when the crown is pulled and drops the seconds hand straight back to zero like a chronograph function.
- 2018 - Triple Split Chronograph - They enhanced the double split chronograph in 2004 with a chronograph that can read the times of two occurring events with a limit of up to twelve hours, not to mention to an accuracy of 1/6th of a second.
The Net Worth of A. Lange & Söhne
Lange & Söhne have an estimated net worth of around £5.4 billion.
Audemars Piguet
Synopsis Of The Brand
Founded in 1875, Audemars Piguet is a household name for Haute Horologie.
Equation of Time - Source - Audemars Piguet
Founded in Vallée de Joux in Switzerland and now based in Le Brassus, they are another family owned industry that has a creative licence to thrill! Created by both Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, they are part of the iconic “holy trinity” of brands including Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe.
They are responsible for developing the first minute repeating movement in 1892 and achieved horological greatness in 1972 when they released the legendary Royal Oak collection. Of course we have good old Gerald Genta to thank for that feat.
Their slogan of “To Break the Rules, You Must First Master Them” is one which has followed them throughout the course of time. Partnering with Tiffany & Co and even Marvel, they have been continuously pressing forwards in both design and collaboration.
Key Collections
- Royal Oak - Released in 1972 at Baselworld, the collection was sneered at due to its highly unorthodox design. The Royal Oak’s visible screws on the octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet and status as the first ever luxury sports watch allows it to now be adored by enthusiasts and collectors globally.
- Millenary - First released in 1995, the collection has been the Audemars Piguet blank sheet for creativity and unorthodox design. Typically giving the user a domed sapphire crystal and off centre dial face, the movement can be viewed from a variety of angles, including the stunning Damaskeening finish!
- Code 11:59 - Another collection for Audemars Piguet to sink their horological teeth into is the 11:59 collection. Released during Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in 2019 as another string to their avant-garde bow, it shows off a crystal with a specific tilted design. The dial can be viewed in a variety of ways, enhancing the user's experience.
Top Three Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Watches
- Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph - Featuring a tourbillon feature to enhance the accuracy, the price tag comes from its high-end materials. Crafted out of 18K yellow gold and adorned with around 276 brilliant cut diamonds at around 3.75 carats, you can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon for around £560,000 on the secondary market.
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Equation of Time - If jewels don’t cut it for you, it may be worth taking a look at the Equation of Time. Its movement is so accurate that it gains or loses just 15 seconds per year. Never mind the beautiful 18K yellow gold case. You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Equation of Time for around £400,000 on the secondary market.
- Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Tourbillon Extra-Thin - Released in 2007, it is exceptionally thin at just 6.7mm thick. Inspired by the 1861 pocket piece, it oozes vintage classicism and does away with tacky excess. You can buy an Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Tourbillon Extra-Thin on the secondary market for around £385,000
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1892 - First minute-repeating movement created.
- 1899 - First ever Grand Complication launched with 7 complications including a small and grand strike as well as a minute repeater.
- 1934 - First ever skeleton edition introduced
- 1946 - World's thinnest timepiece produced at just 1.64mm for the movement.
- 1972 - Enter, The Royal Oak!
- 2008 - They created the first ever Carbon case and movement as seen in the Royal Oak Carbon Concept.
- 2019 - World’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar debuted, The Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
The Net Worth Of Audemars Piguet
It is estimated that Audemars Piguet have a net worth of around £1.3 billion.
Vacheron Constantin
Synopsis Of The Brand
Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin joined the Richemont Group in 1996.
Kallista - Source - Jewellery Editor
Originally founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron with François Constantin joining the brand in 1819, the motto since their inception has always been ‘Do better if possible and that is always possible’. Nice motivation! As one of the oldest brands of all time, Vacheron Constantin operates out of Canton of Geneva and Vallée de Joux in Switzerland.
From creating the most complicated mechanical unit ever such as the 57260 and the King Fuad 402833, Vacheron Constantin has been consistently pushing the boundaries..
Key Collections
- Overseas - Originally released in 1996, The Overseas collection represented Vacheron Constantin’s move into sports models. Taking inspiration from the Jorg Hysek designed Historiques 222, the model has seen a few developments, including a number of complications like chronograph functions and moon phases.
- Patrimony - Released in 2004, the Patrimony collection is defined by its refined look due to its extremely thin case. Taking inspiration from editions derived from the 1950s, the modern editions feature complications like minute repeaters and perpetual calendars.
- Métiers d'Art Collection - Released in 2007, the collection released a series named the ‘Les Masques’ which related to artwork imitating masks. The works have since developed into the artwork inspired by the Chinese New Year which is all attained through master guillocher’s working their intrinsic magic.
There’s something very mystical going on at Vacheron but we don’t care as long as they keep churning out the models.
Top Three Most Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches
- Vacheron Constantin Kallista - Deemed to be one of Vacheron Constantin’s most expensive timepieces of all time. You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Kallista at around £9 million due to its 118 emerald cut diamonds and its build time of 6,000 hours.
- Vacheron Constantin Pocket Watch 402833 - Owned by King Fuad I of Egypt, the piece is a true one of a kind. In 2005, A Vacheron Constantin 402933 sold at auction for around £3 million.
- Vacheron Constantin Tour de I'lle - As a complicated timepiece, capped at 7 watches, it was made in 2005 to mark 250 years of the brand. The Tour de I’lle required a staggering 10,000 hours to make the movement and featured 16 complications. At an Antiquorum Geneva Auction, A Vacheron Constantin Tour de I’lle sold for around £1.67 million.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1790 - Vacheron Constantin created the first ever complication
- 1901 - Received the first ever Geneva Seal.
- 1929 - King Fuad got lucky when Vacheron Constantin blessed him with a Grande Complication!
- 1955 - World's thinnest manual winding movement, the Calibre 1003 introduced.
- 1992 - Release of the world's thinnest minute repeater named Calibre 1755
- 2015 - Reference 57260 launched which is the most complicated wrist or pocket piece made at 57 complications.
Net Worth Of Vacheron Constantin
The Net Worth Of Vacheron Constantin is estimated to be around £2.5 billion
Blancpain
Synopsis Of The Brand
Founded in 1735, Blancpain was originally located in Villeret, Switzerland under the careful eye of Jehan-Jacques Blancpain.
1735 Grande Complication - Source - Christie’s
As the certifiably oldest Swiss brand, Blancpain joined The Swatch group in 1992 and is renowned for a number of designs and complications. Take for example the Fifty Fathoms collection, introduced in 1953 and has since been a trusted mainstay and direct influence of dive models since.
From creating the world's smallest moon phase display in 1983 to awesome collections like their incredible 1735 Grande Complication, we can only await what exciting releases are in store from one of the most expensive luxury brands out there today…
Key Collections
- Villeret - Gleaning its name from the birthplace of the brand, the collection has been with Blancpain since the 1980s. Prioritising gentle curves in the case and highly legible dials, these editions also include complications such as a moon phase display.
- Fifty Fathoms - Released in 1953, the collection is a flagship of the diving world. Originally made for The French Navy, the collection moved onto the US Navy in 1958 and became standard issue for them. Look for the timeless unidirectional rotating bezel and highly legible hour markers.
- 1735 Grande Complication - As one of the most complicated mechanical pieces ever manufactured, they are rarer to find than a dodo. This is usually because they are capped at only around 30 releases annually. Featuring a variety of complications such as a tourbillon, split chronograph and minute repeater, this is a big collection for horological nerds!
Top Three Most Expensive Blancpain Watches
- Blancpain Specialities Tourbillon - Offering a whopping power reserve of 160 hours, it is primed with 20 carats of diamonds on the case, lugs and dial with only an exposed tourbillon at 6 o’clock. You can buy a Blancpain Specialities Tourbillon at around £1 million on the secondary market.
- Blancpain Specialties Tourbillon Grande Date - Featuring a classic tourbillon function to ensure the accuracy of the models, the real fun comes in the white gold case and astonishing array of diamonds. You can buy a Blancpain Specialities Tourbillon Grande Date at around £760,000 on the secondary market.
- Blancpain 1735 Grande Complication - Released in 1991, the tourbillon and moon phase was linked in with a perpetual calendar and minute repeater in an exceptionally thin movement and is limited to 30 watches. In 2012, A Blancpain 1735 Grande Complication sold at around £630,000 at a Christie’s auction.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1983 - World’s smallest moon-phases display created
- 1987 - Introduced the world's thinnest self-winding chronograph and smallest minute-repeater of its era. Two for the price of one!
- 1988 - Blancpain set another world record thanks to the introduction of the world's thinnest split-second chronograph.
- 2000 - First self winding tourbillon and perpetual calendar released which boasted 8 days power reserve.
- 2006 - Blancpain created the Tourbillon Semainier which blends complications with a 7 day power reserve.
- 2008 - World’s first movement with a one-minute flying carousel and 100 hour power reserve.
The Net Worth Of Blancpain
Blancpain has an estimated net worth of around £2 billion when taking into account their part in The Swatch group.
TAG Heuer
Synopsis Of The Brand
TAG Heuer could arguably be number one for all things racing and driving orientated.
Carbon Monaco - Source - Christie’s
Founded in 1860, they were created by Edouard Heuer in St-Imer, Switzerland. Originally named Uhrenmanufaktur Heuer AG, they changed its name to TAG Heuer in 1985 when they were absorbed by TAG Group. TAG stands for Techniques d’Avant-Garde, promoting TAG’s highly innovative prowess.
In 1999, they were then bought by LVMH for almost 100% of the shares.
Now based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, this luxury brand has won La Petite Aiguille award for its Carrera 1887 in 2010 while its editions are capable of reaching 1/1000 of a second such as the Mikrograph Flying 1000.
TAG Heuer are more than part of the big leagues. So, how pricey are they really?
Key Collections
- Carrera - The Carrera collection originated in 1963 and is the ultimate sports companion for high intensity lovers. Given an extremely legible dial and elongated lugs, the collection is extremely distinct. The movements have since been upgraded, promoting speed through the next gen Calibre TH20-00 movement.
- Aquaracer - The Aquaracer collection followed on from the 2000 collection, but it was technically started in 2003. As the perfect addition for diving and sailing, the collection features incredible models like the highly lauded Heuer Skipper and Mareograph-Seafarer, developed from the TAG Heuer releasing the world's first pocket model with a waterproof case.
- Monaco - The TAG Heuer Monaco originates from 1969 as a celebration of the Monaco Grand Prix. Its close association with Steve McQueen has seen many vintage TAGs become highly sought after. This is none more so when Ryan Gosling wore three gold TAG pieces for the new Barbie movie in 2023, the Carrera 1158 CHN, Carrera 2448 NT and The Carrera 110.515. This is vintage TAG Heuer at its finest.
Its instantly recognisable square case and two subdials is now a staple and an icon of the collection. Worn by Cristiano Ronaldo, Chris Hemsworth and yes we didn’t forget Steve McQueen, it is the world's first automatic square case chronograph.
Top Three Most Expensive TAG Heuer Watches
- Carrera Plasma - Featuring 12ct worth of lab-grown diamonds and powered by the extremely powerful H02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement, this model is extraordinary avant-garde with a 65 hour power reserve and anodized aluminium case. You can buy a TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma for around £270,000 on the secondary market.
- TAG Heuer Monaco 1133B - Worn by Steve Mcqueen in the extremely popular 1971 film, Le Mans, it is steeped in history. It sold at auction for approximately £1.7 million.
- TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco - Forged out of carbon and given a skeletonised dial, the Heuer 02 calibre is dolled up with a hand finished gratté finish to give the impression of a chequered flag. Sold at a Christie's auction for the Only Watch foundation, it went for around £259,000.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1869 - Eduoard Heuer patents a crown operated keyless winding system
- 1887 - Heuer patents oscillating pinion which allows the chronograph to start and stop instantly just by using a push button.
- 1916 - Heuer releases the Mikrograph and Semikrograph which boosted stopwatches from ⅕ second to 1/50 and 1/100.
- 1920 - Heuer became supplier of chronographs for Olympics, Indianapolis 500 and Formula One races.
- 1962 - Autavia chronograph released as Heuer’s first ever chronograph
- 1963 - Carrea is released to the world.
- 1969 - Heuer is the first to release automatic chronographs to worldwide markets with Calibre 11 movement.
- 1986 - TAG Heuer releases Formula One collection
- 2004 - Monaco V4 released which simulated the construction of a car engine.
- 2010 - Heuer releases first in house calibre, the Calibre 1887
The Net Worth of TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer are the sporty beasts of the watch world which don’t veer too far from being expensive! TAG Heuer has an estimated Net Worth of £90 billion. This is due to their membership of the LVMH Group.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Synopsis Of The Brand
Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker's watchmaker!
Reverso Complication à Triptyque - Source - Sotheby’s
Created in 1833 by Antione LeCoultre, the company originated in Le Sentier, Switzerland. In 2000, the company was under the helm of Richemont. Not to worry however, their output has certainly not ceased.
Surpassing 1000 movements and holding great achievements like the creator of the smallest movement and most complicated wrist editions, Jaeger-LeCoultre are very skilled creators in the art of Haute Horlogerie.
Key Collections
- Reverso - The Reverso represented the first ever sports watch. Given a reversible case, the dial could be flipped over in order to preserve it’s face. Released in 1931, it was originally made for the British soldiers stationed in India who wanted to play polo. It’s continuously evolved and remains a major part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s portfolio.
- Duoplan - Released in 1925, The Duoplan came in as the victor of an era where small equals perfection. As the first collection to use a sapphire crystal and use gem set steel editions, the models are incredibly small, yet extremely precise.
- Joaillerie 101 - We would be remiss if we didn’t mention Joaillerie 101. Released in the 1930s, the collection took the great skill of the Duoplan’s miniature Calibre 101 and placed it in the Haute Horlogerie framework of the Joaillerie 101 collection. Yes, Timelords. It was also worn by Queen Elizabeth II for her coronation!
Top Three Most Expensive Jaeger-LeCoultre Watches
- Gyrotourbillon I - Capped at 20 stunning watches released per year, it is very difficult to get your hands on. The movement alone totals 679 parts and has the ability to remove the impacts of gravity on the movement due to its clever construction. You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon I for around £350,000 on the secondary market at the time of writing.
- Hybris Mechanica a Grande Sonnerie - Released in 2009, it took the world by storm as the most complicated timepiece. Made up of 26 complications such as a perpetual calendar and sonnerie functions which mimic the bells of Westminster, the 1,300 part movement is horrendously complicated. You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre on the secondary market for around £2 million at the time of writing.
- Reverso Complication à Triptyque - On the theme of complicated watches, let’s look at this stunner! Following on from the original two dial structure of the original Reverso model, it has three unique faces which are capable of showing sidereal time, perpetual time and civil time. You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Complication a Triptyque on the secondary market for around £475,000 at the time of writing.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1844 - They created the Millionomètre, a machine capable of measuring the micron, essential for the manufacture of extremely small components.
- 1847 - Creation of a keyless system which was capable of using just a small pusher to change from winding to time setting.
- 1866 - Debut of movements which featured complications within themselves.
- 1891 - Introduced the chronograph and minute repeater into a double complication calibre.
- 1907 - Released the world's thinnest movement at 1.38mm thick, named the Calibre 145.
- 2001 - Developed the calibre and complication combination as part of the Gyrotourbillon I which became the first grande complication from Jaeger-LeCoultre.
- 2006 - The Reverso grande complication à triptyque was released, representing the first edition to feature three dials powered by one movement.
- 2009 - Unveiling of the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie as the most complicated model of its time.
The Net Worth of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre are the expensive darlings of the watch world. The estimated Net Worth of Jaeger-LeCoultre is around £12.5 billion due to their associations with the Richemont group.
Hublot
Synopsis Of The Brand
Founded by a gentleman named Carlo Crocco, Hublot was originally founded in 1980. Starting from Italy, he moved to Switzerland to start his own company. Upon his first release, The Classic model, it was the first instance where anyone paired gold with rubber.
Talk about breaking down the horological barriers. Hublot is to watches as John McCenroe is to tennis. They are the wild child of watchmaking dripping with attitude and pzazz. This is precisely why they are being flexed on the most famous of wrists such as Novak Djokovic, power couple Jay-Z and Beyonce, plus Mr Speed himself, Usain Bolt.
Hublot $5 Million - Source - IBTimes UK
Its unusual build was immensely popular and cemented Hublot’s role as a completely off-the-wall brand. Taken over in 2004 by Jean-Claude Biver, Hublot expanded out even further, utilising more and more outlandish materials including Saxem and eventually the hugely popular Big Bang collection.
The release of its UNICO movement in 2009 represented Hublot’s move into in-house work, cementing themselves as a key Swiss luxury brand.
Key Collections
- Big Bang - Taking inspiration from the massive success of the 1980s release, Big Bang watches tend to have “porthole” style dial faces and feature exposed screws and rubber straps. They regularly use materials like their very own Magic Gold.
- Classic Fusion - The Classic Fusion is the direct descendant of the first release. Strapped on with a rubber strap, the models tend to feature black lacquered dials and yellow gold casing as an ode to the Maisons style. It is available in titanium and even ceramic.
- MP - The MP collection was first revealed in 2011, limited to 100 pieces and featuring an astonishing 10 day power reserve. It’s been continuously updating, revealing models like the MP-02 Key of Time which allows time to be read in three different ways. Now, avant-garde pieces like the MP-08 Antikythera Sunmoon are released as an ode to a mechanism discovered in Greek Waters in 1901.
Top Three Most Expensive Hublot Watches
- Hublot $5 Million - Yes, it is what it exactly says on the tin. Debuting in 2012, Beyonce gave it to JAY-Z as a 43rd birthday gift. Covered in 1,282 diamonds over the white gold case, dial and bracelet, it took 14 months to make. You can buy a Hublot $5 million for around £4 million at the time of writing.
- The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon - Released in 2011, it is exceptionally complex just like the Big Bang theory and is adorned with 638 diamonds. They are all cut to suit the classic case like a diamond armour. You can buy a Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon at retail for around £2.3 million at the time of writing.
- The Hublot Black Caviar Bang - Crafted out of white gold, the model features 531 black diamonds on the case and bezel. Featuring the classic rubber strap, it’s nice to see that at least there’s some link to their humble beginnings! You can buy a Hublot Black Caviar for around £790,000 at the time of writing.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1980 - Carlo Crocco created the first Hublot blending rubber straps with gold cases. This was a first in the industry but was immensely popular.
- 2004 - Hublot is taken over by marketing mastermind Jean-Claude Biver. He brought in the Art of Fusion concept which saw bizarre materials like tantalum, ceramic and red gold that were linked with high quality movements.
- 2005 - The Big Bang collection released during Baselworld and paved the way for the Art of Fusion concept. Awarded "2005 Design Prize" in the "Geneva Grand Prix d'Horlogerie",
- 2006 - Jean Claude-Biver released Hublot TV, a channel aimed at news and broadcasts about Hublot.
- 2007 - Hublot Big Diver released measuring 48mm.
- 2007 - Hublot moved in-house as they released their first ever in-house manufactured watch, The Mag Bang
- 2007 - Hublot gets awarded "Best Watch" prize of the "Design Awards 2007" from Wallpaper magazine.
- 2007 - They released the One Million Dollar Big Bang which showcased diamonds and subsequently won the "Prize for the Jewel Watch" at the "Geneva Grand Prix d'Horlogerie 2007"
- 2011 - Hublot releases Magic Gold material which is the only scratch resistant 18K gold alloy.
- 2016 - Hublot releases first ever sapphire Big Bang watch, made entirely out of sapphire.
- 2023 - Hublot releases the first ever timepiece crafted from recycled coffee pods and ground coffee beans, the Nespresso Origin.
The Net Worth of Hublot
Hublot are expensive innovators and as such, they have an estimated Net Worth of £90 billion. This is due to their role as part of LVMH.
Chopard
Synopsis Of The Brand
Founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier, Switzerland, Chopard has managed to retain its family status since its takeover by German business Scheufele in 1963.
Super Ice Cube - Source - Pinterest
With a client base featuring the Tsar Nicholas of Russia II and actor Julia Roberts, the business is based in Geneva and prides itself on a vast array of high quality movements and timepieces. From creating the highly avant-garde editions like the unorthodox design of floating diamonds behind a sapphire glass, Chopard has been a big player in the horological world, recording sales of around £720 million in 2014.
Let’s see what expense these guys really hold!
Key Collections
- Alpine Eagle - Almost 40 years ago, St. Mortiz was released for the sporty-chic sect of the world. Originally composed of steel, the St Moritz collection has evolved into the highly lauded Alpine Eagle collection. Famed for their Eagle iris dials, integrated bracelet and feather shaped seconds hand, this is a collection for the cultured among you!
- L.U.C - Following the initials of Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C collection was released in 1996 and houses the iconic dial style of a beehive logo as well as a Dauphine fusee-style hands and tapered lugs. Featuring a variety of Grand Feu enamelling and Fleuisanne engravings, this is a very exciting collection that’s worthy of mentioning.
- Mille Miglia - Following on from Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s driving passions, this collection celebrates its timekeeping relationship with the Mille Miglia race. Made from Lucent steel and featuring a glassbox crystal for that vintage buzz, they are the definition of sporty chic and infinitely luxurious.
Top Three Most Expensive Chopard Watches
- Chopard 201 Carat - Covered in 874 diamonds in a variety of colours like yellow, pinks and blues, they all weigh around 163 carats. If you press a little pusher, the heart shaped diamonds on the dial face open up, exposing the dial's hands. You can buy a Chopard 201 Carat for around £20 million at the time of writing.
- Chopard Super Ice Cube - Crafted out of 66 carats worth of diamonds, they are shaped like ice cubes and fitted with a scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Now that’s a cool bit of bling. You can buy a Chopard Super Ice Cube at retail for around £900,000 at the time of writing.
- Chopard Secret - There is a little secret here… Getting its name from the diamond hinged door that protects the dial, just a little push of a button exposes the total of 19 carats worth of diamonds. You can buy a Chopard Secret for around £450,000 at the time of writing.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1860 - Chopard is created, specialising in pocket watches and super thin chronometers.
- 1976 - Chopard releases Happy Diamonds collection which overhauls the diamond set watches collections globally due to these diamonds being free to move between two sapphire crystals.
- 1978 - Chopard opened their own foundry to make their own materials.
- 1980 - Chopard releases a steel St. Moritz steel.
- 1988 - Chopard pairs with 1000 Miglia race to launch the similarly named sports collection.
- 1993 - Happy sport collection is released
- 2000 - Chopard unveils the L.U.C Quattro which is given a L.U.C 1.98 calibre and four barrels with an impressive 9 days of power reserve.
- 2016 - The L.U.C Full strike is released as Chopard’s most complicated piece and goes on to win the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
- 2019 - Chopard reinvents the St. Moritz as the Alpine Eagle.
The Net Worth Of Chopard
Chopard is an expensive luxury brand and as such, has an estimated net worth of around £1.5 billion.
Omega
Synopsis Of The Brand
Omega has been hitting the heady heights of Haute Horlogerie since its inception in 1903.
Elvis model H6582/D96043 - Source - Phillips
Founded by Louis Brandt in Bienne, Switzerland, the company was originally named La Generale Watch Co until 1984 where its name changed to Omega. Now part of the Swatch conglomerate, Omega remains a dominant luxury brand among newbie enthusiasts and would-be collectors..
With great releases and achievements like the Omega Speedmaster, the first model to land on the moon in 1969 and the Master Chronometer Certification which confirms Omega’s high quality timepieces, Omega has been associated with James Bond for around 60 years.
Omega is therefore a highly successful brand. Let’s delve into a few key facts as to the reasons why.
Key Collections
- Seamaster - Introducing the longest running collection from Omega! Since 1948, the Seamaster’s heritage lies in its use on submarines during WW2. Now featuring the highly effective Co-Axial escapement from 1970 and associated with James Bond due to actors like Daniel Craig wearing the piece in films like Goldeneye, this collection is cemented in horological and pop culture history. Moreover, the Seamaster has been one of the finest collections when looking as a potential investment piece.
- Speedmaster - Released in 1957, the Speedmaster is another iconic collection. Originally designed as a racing chronograph, the ticker evolved and became the first collection to walk on the moon flexed on Buzz Aldrin’s wrist. Its chronograph counters, black dial and circular face are staples of such a historical and familiar piece.
- Constellation - Released in 1952, the Omega constellation collection is famed for its slim construction and out and out dress design allure. Horophiles may also know that Gerald Genta also worked on the collection from 1955 onwards, implementing the famed C-shaped case, pie face dial not to mention slimline indexes and hands.
Top Three Most Expensive Omega Watches
- Omega Tourbillon 30 I - There were 12 Calibre 30 I Tourbillon movements released during the period of 1947. However, the confirmation of this model being made shows that at least one prototype model was released during this time, making it extremely important for historical purposes. In 2021, The Tourbillon 30 I sold at a Philipps auction for around £1.1 million.
- Omega Ref. H6582/D96043 - Owned by Elvis Presley, this 1960 Omega was released in partnership with Tiffany & Co. It was released to Elvis as a gift from his record label for achieving 75 million record sales. The Omega Ref. H6582/D96043 sold at a Philipps auction for around £1.4 million.
- Omega Seamaster Chronomètre Automatic, Ref. OT 2520 - Crafted out of 18K gold, a series of striking models with cloisonné enamel dials were released between 1946 and 1956. With only a small amount released during its 10 year run, this “Neptune” dial edition is exceptionally rare as it’s estimated only 5 versions have such a feature. Sold in 2012 at a Christie’s auction, The Omega Seamaster Chronomètre Automatic, Ref. OT 2520 went for around £200,000,
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1892 - Louis Brandt releases the first ever minute repeating wrist worn model with Audemars Piguet
- 1947 - Omega releases the first ever tourbillon wristwatch calibre known as the 30 I.
- 1969 - The Speedmaster is the first timepiece in history to land on the moon’s surface.
- 1999 - Omega was the first brand to bring a Co-axial escapement to the masses, following the popular Calibre 2500.
- 2013 - Omega releases the first movement that’s resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 Gauss.
- 2015 - Omega cements themselves as high quality watchmakers with the Master Chronometer Certification that contains both COSC and METAS certification.
The Net Worth of Omega
Omega has an estimated net worth of around £2 billion when taking into account their position under the umbrella of The Swatch Group.
IWC
Synopsis Of The Brand
IWC was originally founded in 1869 by a gentleman named Florentine Ariosto. The business would be transferred over to the Rauschenbach family in 1880 after they became bankrupt and has since been a part of The Richemont Group since 2000.
Siderale Scafusia - Source - IWC
IWC is a massive brand machine which has its history laced with success. From creating the Ceratanium material which blends both ceramic and titanium or being the first collective to create a titanium timepiece in the shape of the Porsche Design Titanchronograph 3700 in 1980, IWC are big players in the horological sphere.
Let’s see why they deserve their place as one of the most expensive watch brands!
Key Collections
- Ingenieur - First released during the 1950’s, the Ingenieur collection was geared towards the scientific community. For those French speakers, you may know that “Ingenieur” directly translates as “Engineer”! It was continued until 1959 then restarted by Gerald Genta in the 1970s under his updated design of visible screws, integrated bracelet and a new sporty allure. Revamped at Watches and Wonders 2023, it is an incredibly important piece from their timekeeping stable.
- Portugieser - Launched in 1939, The IWC Portugieser was based around a large stainless steel wristwatch that had the capability of matching the precision of a marine chronometer. Intentionally large at 43mm, the circular timepiece with its Arabic numerals and steely case is a classic design of the collection.
- Aquatimer - Introduced during the 1960’s, the IWC Aquatimer became the first watch to hit 2000 metres water resistance. Equipped with a rotating bezel as well as an unorthodox internal bezel that is measured by a separate crown, the piece is the ultimate dive watch.
Top Three Most Expensive IWC Watches
- Siderale Scafusia - Ever felt the desire to go to space without moving a muscle? Featuring an astronomical display with perpetual calendar, take a look at the ecliptic and celestial equator dial, as well as the customisable celestial chart. IWC’s claim of only selling around ten per year boasts the rarity of the editions. You can buy an IWC Siderale Scafusia on the secondary market for upwards of £500,00 at the time of writing.
- IWC Grande Complication Platinum - Released in 1990, The Grande Complication boosted IWC’s ability to create immensely complicated watches. The platinum edition is 45mm and features a movement that offers a 44 hour power reserve, beating away at 28,800VpH. Housing complications like a perpetual moon phase, chronograph and a perpetual calendar, this is a superb novelty for anyone’s collection! You can buy an IWC Portugieser Grande Complication Platinum at retail for £212,000 at the time of writing.
- IWC Tourbillon Destriero Scafusia - The Destriero Scafusia was released to celebrate 125 years of IWC greatness. Released in 1993, it’s a grand complication watch that’s grander than the Old Duke Of York. The complicated name translates to “The Warhorse from Schaffhausen”. With 22 complications and limited to 125 pieces, you can buy an IWC Tourbillon Destriero Scafusia at auction for around £85,000 at the time of writing.
A Few Achievements And Accolades (Timeline)
- 1885 - IWC releases the first watches with digital hours and minutes display as designed through the Pallweber system.
- 1915 - IWC designed their first ever movement, the Calibre 75 and 76 for their wristwatches.
- 1944 - The W.W.W wristwatch is released for the military. The letters stand for watch, wrist and waterproof.
- 1946 - Albert Pellaton releases the 89-calibre.
- 1969 - IWC is involved with the Beta 21 quartz movement which relates to a wristwatch complete with a quartz movement.
- 1976 - Gerald Genta changes the appearance of the Ingenier collection, featuring visible screws and an integrated bracelet with the movement now being protected from magnetic fields up to 80,000 A/m
- 1978 - First wristwatch with built in compass is released in collaboration with F.A Porsche.
- 1980 - First ever titanium watch created in collaboration with F.A Porsche.
- 1986 - IWC adopts zirconium oxide which is a highly resilient ceramic for their cases.
- 1990 - First wristwatch sized Grande Complication is launched that took 7 years to construct
- 2000 - IWC releases the Calibre 5000, capable of running for seven days consecutively.
- 2017 - Ceratanium material debuts after five years of development.
- 2019 - IWC pioneers ceramic material by releasing sand coloured ceramics.
The Net Worth of IWC
The net worth of IWC is very expensive and valued at around £12.5 billion. This is due to their close associations with the Richemont group.
Conclusion
And there you have it Timelords. 12 of the most expensive watch brands and their net worth all decked out like a pack of cards. There’s certainly no jokers here. Through the breakdown of great patents and their key collections, exposing their greatness and their net worth, there’s no wonder there are some pieces which are valued so highly!
While some brands are associated with Swatch, Richemont or LVMH, there are other brands like Chopard and Rolex which are doing just fine by themselves. From the top of the crop with Rolex, to the up and comers like Hublot, the watch world is immensely unpredictable.
Don’t get us started on Jacob & Co with some of their most expensive watches like The Billionaire Timeless Treasure which has a price tag of around £16 million. How about the Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary which features Godfather film inspiration in a culmination of film and Haute Horlogerie expertise? This is valued at around £400,000 at the time of writing.
We hope you enjoyed the top 12 most expensive watch brands and their net worth. We cannot wait to see what lies ahead for these luxury brands with some changing leaders at the top this year like the new CEO of Audemars Piguet, Ilaria Resta. With many moving in a different direction like AP, will other brands follow suit and move with the times?
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Further Reading:
The Ultimate Watch Collection For Under £60,000 - Tudor Black Bay, Rolex Daytona
A Collection Of The Very Best Luxury Watches From Wimbledon 2023
Chrono Hunter Compares Rolex and Audemars Piguet - Which Is Best?