Exclusive: Vacheron Constantin Goes All-Out Retrograde With 3 Models At Watches And Wonders 2023
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Exclusive: Vacheron Constantin Goes All-Out Retrograde With 3 Models At Watches And Wonders 2023

Exclusive: Vacheron Constantin Drops New Retrograde Releases At Watches And Wonders 2023


  • Geneva is officially open as Watches and Wonders 2023 opens with a variety of new releases including Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, Tudor, Zenith and Patek Philippe.
  • Vacheron Constantin introduces a string of delicious debuts in Geneva from the new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date to a Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date and new sizes for the Overseas Self-Winding collection.
  • The new Overseas timepieces are aimed at both men and women which are available in 34.5mm and 35mm sizes.


The time has finally arrived and Chrono Hunter is hot on the heels of delivering all the latest drops and news from Watches and Wonders 2023. For now let’s focus on Vacheron Constantin but it’s been an exciting 24 hours to say the least. 

And that’s not even starting to cogitate over Tudor Black Bay’s new burgundy bezel, an exclusive 60th Anniversary Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, The Rolex Perpetual 1908, A bigger Rolex Explorer at 40mm (more of that to follow) and Patek Philippe’s first ever annual calendar with the Aquanaut Luce. Have we got your horological tails wagging yet? As the news keeps breaking from Watches and Wonders 2023 by the second, for now, let’s explore what Vacheron Constantin has dropped.


Has Vacheron Constantin Gone All Retrograde This Year?


Watchmaking at Vacheron has gone back to the future with the launch of 3 retrograde models, Source: Vox

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As Watches and Wonders 2023 kicked off yesterday with a bang, we have seen Vacheron Constantin get their time machine and go back to revisit older models with not one but three retrograde date displays. Looks like the heritage department at Vacheron has been working overtime on these particular models that lean on its prestigious name. Elegance, sophistication and simplicity, showcase what this Swiss powerhouse is all about. Forget Marty Mcfly, this isn’t a case of going back to the future yet it shows just how vital a role their history has played in these new releases. But enough of the past, let’s focus on the here and now.


Patrimony Retrograde - Platinum Version


It might be the Chinese Year of The Rabbit as Vacheron presented on the ultra-limited Metiers D’Art collection last year. Nevertheless, the past is most certainly the present at this year's Watches and Wonders 2023. The first of three retrograde watches, the Patrimony Retrograde comes in platinum featuring a majestic salmon dial. 


Source: Watch Collecting Lifestyle/Vacheron Constantin

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And there’s nothing fishy about a salmon dial watch fans! An incredible dress watch bar none, Vacheron have raised the retrograde stakes incredibly high this year with this piece - new at Watches and Wonders 2023. Renowned for retrograde inspired timepieces, you’ll have to go back to 1935 to find a retrograde hand which appeared on the famed Don Pancho reference 3620. Retrograde displays have appeared down the years in other watches including the Mercator, inspired by Flemish geographer Gérard Mercator. 

Yet this jump back function is having its moment in the sun as we have seen from models introduced recently by Seiko among others. But the fact is that time is something no one is in control of. Thanks to these new retrograde models, Vacheron Constantin is making you keep time in a more distinctive way. The brain has to work differently to record time which is reflected beautifully in the Patrimony line. Known as “art of equilibrium” The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date from Monday’s extensive launches sums up the ethos of this Genevan brand. Complex, harmonious yet elegant, it harks back to the Roaring 20s and 30s with its Bauhaus inspired philosophy which can be seen across its range of early timepieces. Combining precious metals, subtle aesthetics and numerous intricate complications is only something that Vacheron Constantin can deliver. 

Watch out for the signature Maltese cross in rose gold located at 12 o’clock, two retrograde hands for both day and date and the hour, 40 hour power reserve with hour and minute hands daubed in 18k white gold. A curved silhouette results in more glean emanating from the case. Hand finishing can be seen throughout the new Patrimony Retrograde version in platinum,even down to the perlage. 


Other Specs


Case Diameter: 42.5mm / Components: 256 / Case: 950 platinum / Dial: Salmon hue with sunburst pattern / Indications: Date, day, time, hours, minutes / Movement: In-house R31R7/3 self winding calibre / Strap: Mississippiensis alligator leather strap in dark blue


Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date


There’s plenty to sink our teeth into with the new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. Vacheron Constantin really are looking to the past as they give a nod to their legendary lineup with several features. From a fluted crown, 22k gold rotor and lacquered dial with elements we are all too familiar with such as the size-sided bezel.


Source: Vacheron Constantin

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The moon phase indicator comes as standard that only needs you to alter it once every 122 years! Nice. The blue dial stands out while we do like the steel bracelet that will provide an elegant appearance to any outfit. The arc shaped retrograde display that flicks back to 1 when the month ends is something common across all of these retrograde models. This is fan-shaped in aesthetics stretching out to nearly 180 degrees. While some brands see retrograde displays as troublesome due to the energy building up and exploding time and time again, this is a real nod to watch nerds who appreciate time in other ways.

The first of its kind in the Overseas collection to include a retrograde display, by combining this with the moon phase complication makes this unconventional sports watch a real player in Vacheron Constantin’s new lineup.

Other Specs:

Case Diameter: 41mm / Calibre: Mechanical self-winding 2460 R31L/2 / Straps: Available in a similar rubber band or calf skin leather strap / Thickness: 10.8mm / Water Resistance: 50m / 


Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Fate Openface


Source: Watch Collecting Lifestyle

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Paying respect to its former glories with a touch of modernity, Vacheron’s tradition is exemplified in the last of these retrograde dial watches. Gents, step forward the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. The Swiss brand has gone all out by introducing the first ever retrograde timepiece houses in the Traditionelle lineup. Complications aplenty in this one thanks to its retrograde date and tourbillon. Off the bat, we notice there is lots of guilloché going on especially around the surfaces of the Openfaces dial which is made from sapphire. 

Leaning towards the avant-garde appeal, the most recent addition to the Traditionnelle collection is now boosted by traditional complications that enthusiasts at Watches and Wonders will drool over. We can see a perfect example of its horological heritage demonstrated in models like the Complete Calendar Openface with a lug to lug measurement of nearly 49mm which will sit nicely on any wrist.

Measuring 41mm, the case is 18k 5N pink gold while you will notice a stepped bezel and monolithic style lugs. Classic and simple on the eye and wrist, it’s sleek alright but may let you down if you are looking for something sportier. Try the Overseas Chronograph Ref.5500V/110A-B686 instead. However, you won’t be plunging very far as The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface only offers 30 metres water resistance. Powered by the masterful yet slim 2162 R31 calibre, it is a real tour de force of this watch. Anglage, mirror polishing and vertical Geneva stripes dominate with a big window allowing light to seep through the cage. 


Source: Watch Collecting Lifestyle

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The movement not just powers the tourbillon but the jump-back date display. First rate technique is coupled with incredible aesthetics delivering a majestic openworked dial. Other highlights we can’t get enough of are the railway minute track, baton hour markers and Dauphine hands, slate grey dial. If you want to buy a Vacheron Constantin like this, again prices have not been released it’s that spanking new!


Other Specs:

Crystal: Sapphire / Case Diameter: 41mm / Thickness: 11.07mm / Bezel Thickness: 6.25mm / Functions: Tourbillon retrograde date, hours and minutes / Power Reserve: 72 hours


New Case Sizes For The Overseas Self-Winding Collection


Before we go, the Maison has gone several steps further with four new references as part of the Overseas collection. Comprising steel as well as 18K 5N pink gold, you will find a 34.5mm and 35mm case that has been aimed at both ladies and gents. And with the craze towards slimmer timepieces, it is no surprise Vacheron has gone down this route at Watches and Wonders 2023. 


Source: Watch Collecting Lifestyle

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Yet they have remained true to the collection but with a new silhouette which is both ergonomic but far slender. The ultimate travel companion this might be with the interchangeable straps a nice touch ensuring individuals can amend their timepieces to suit their individual needs. Be it a buckle with clasp or a bracelet, this allows enthusiasts to change straps on the go with ease and without the necessity of tools. 

Boasting a radiant sunburst blue dial on three versions with the fourth packed full of gems on the bezel with pink dial, the 1088/1 calibre beats along at 4Hz inside. On the dial, you will find hours and minutes indicators not to mention a date aperture situated at 3 o’clock. The steel version enjoys 90 diamonds with top-notch legibility from the hours and minutes hands predominately with Super-LumiNova®.

Other Specs:

Power Reserve: 40 hours / Components: 144 / Caseback: Sapphire crystal / Straps: Available in either a rubber band, steel bracelet or calfskin leather / Functions: Hours, minutes, date / 


4600V/200A-B980 blue dial, steel version

4600V/200R-B979 blue dial, pink gold version

4605/200A-B971 diamond set, steel version complete with pink dial

4605V/200R-B978 pink gold version with pink dial and set with diamonds.




Well time peeps, if you want to buy a Vacheron Constantin, you are going to have to come back for more details. With prices not released by the brand, we are just in the dark as you are. For now, take a pause and come back tomorrow for more releases, latest natterings and new drops from Watches and Wonders 2023. Trust me…you won’t be disappointed!

Want to be ready to buy a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date or Tourbillon Retrograde Fate Openface? Contact Chrono Hunter here to find out more. We are your number one source when you decide to buy a watch or sell a watch. Search for the model you wish to purchase or sell via our dedicated app or online form. Receive multiple offers within 24 hours and ensure you are ready to embrace the retrograde movement in no time!


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Further Reading:

Chrono Hunter Compares Vacheron Constantin and Panerai - Which Is Best?


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