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Watches and Wonders 2023 Rewind: Our Standout Timepieces From Geneva

Did you catch this year's Watches and Wonders 2023? If you did, we are absolutely certain that you saw our regular updates on the latest releases and updates from the event at Geneva. If you didn't…we can’t turn back time. You’ll just have to look at our website for all the horological highs and lows from this colossal event!

Throughout the week of releases (with our fingertips close to breaking point), we had our eyes, ears and everything else peeled as the launches came thick and fast daily. With over 48 Maisons flexing their watchmaking muscles and new launches like the IWC Ingenieur, we have compiled a list of our standout watches from Geneva that we hope you enjoy.

1. Tudor Black Bay 54

The new Tudor Black Bay 54 pays tribute to the beauty of its predecessors from its father brands, The Tudor Submariner and the Oyster Prince.

Black Bay 54 - Source - Tudor

Since it's already the same size at 37mm like its original model, only minor physical details have changed such as silver bezel markings replacing gold and red and the hands are contemporized but not so much that the design of them are miles different from its original. The dial is black and gold and also features the iconic rose emblem associated with Tudor and the sapphire crystal is given a domed effect in order to increase the legibility of the watch and add a unique design feature. Powered by the calibre MT5400, The Black Bay 54 is COSC certified and offers movement security through the balance bridge and variable inertia wheel, as well as staving off magnetism through the silicon hairspring. 70 hours of power reserve and a time variation of -2/+4 seconds is also nothing to be sniffed at!

Buy a Tudor starting from £3,030 RRP.

2. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce 5261R

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce is the latest edition to a collection dating back to 1997.

Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar - Source - Patek Philippe

The Aquanaut offered a young and dynamic aesthetic which is something the latest edition conforms to. Crafted from the very same octagonal case shape, the case is 39.9mm and is crafted from rose gold with a satin and polished finish. The blue dial looks superb against the gold, especially since the indices are gold applied Arabic numerals which stand out clearly, offering clear visibility. The blueish grey rubber strap though will split people down the middle. Suffice to say, this is the watch to wear when wanting to look regal in time for the Coronation of King Charles III.

The 26-330 S QA LU calibre has the central rotor crafted from 21K gold, allowing the movement to look beautiful through the exhibition caseback. Powering the annual calendar, moon phase and general timekeeping details, the watch is both technically and physically sublime!

You can buy a Patek Philippe 5261R at retail for £49,530 at the time of writing.

3. Rolex Perpetual 1908

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 is crafted to be the epitome of the brand's classy dress watch design.

Rolex Perpetual 1908 - Source - Rolex

Revitalised for 2023, it measures 39mm and oozes luxury and refinement. Made out of yellow gold, this precious metal contrasts seamlessly with the clear white dial face, allowing the yellow gold indices and hands to sublimely stand out, especially the Arabic numeral enchantments at 3, 9 and 12 o'clock. We like the hour hand which resembles a mini Space Needle you would find dotted on the Toronto skyline. The bezel is both domed and fluted to allow the watch to have different dimensions and draw the eyes into the dial's face. The Superlative Chronometer movement has a Syloxi hairspring which enhances its magnetism as well as Paraflex shock absorbers to allow the watch to withstand those bumps and scrapes.

The watch could easily be deemed to be the ultimate dress watch in 2023 due to its inherent elegance and its use of precious metals to enhance its luxurious craftsmanship. You could easily pair this watch with a navy suit in the office or dress up comfy with some jeans and a polo shirt.

You can buy a Rolex Perpetual 1908 at retail for £18,500

4. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

Are you a part of the social elite? Enjoy living it up with the hoi polloi? Then you simply must have a Rolex Day-Date!

Day-Date - Source - Prestige Hong Kong

The collection started in 1956 and has found its way onto the wrists of former US presidents like Richard Nixon and Ronald Reagan as well as celebrities like rapper Eminem and U2’s own Bono. He may have bought a Rolex in the name of love but there’s a reason why it is solely associated with the wealthy. This fine piece has only ever been crafted from 950 platinum or yellow gold giving it the real bling factor.

Nowadays, the Perpetual Day-Date comes in Everose, white and yellow gold, all of which are adorned with the same jigsaw pattern that is attained through champlevé enamelling. If the jigsaw colours weren't enough of a horological hit for you, you also have the date aperture containing words like Happy or Gratitude instead of the actual months. Wow, Rolex, you never cease to amaze us with your wonders!

Splitting critics like Moses and the Red Sea, let us pass over the finer details. We love the daring design and pleasure aesthetic that Rolex, a typically very serious brand, has run with. The watch is funky and should be worn with something that keeps with its energy and vibe. As such, we suggest a floral shirt to retain the classy element or go all out and wear some bright colours to show that you are just as fun as the watch!

You can buy a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date when the prices are released later on.

5. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon

The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon is done a little differently this time at Watches and Wonders 2023…

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sunburst Dial - Source - Vacheron Constantin

Crafted out of the beautiful precious metal platinum, the watch comes in at 41mm and is given a very rich green dial. As per other watches like the Oris Kermit which were also released at Watches and Wonders 2023, green is really on point and Vacheron Constantin are spearheading it! The dial is given galvanic treatment which looks super when shining with the platinum, especially since the indices and Dauphine style hands are white gold, allowing them to superbly gleam from the green dial! The circular case is a classic from Vacheron Constantin so to modernise it with the colour and openworked tourbillon is for us a stroke of watchmaking genius. Need we mention the 80 hour power reserve calibre 2160/1, which can be seen through the exhibition back? That’s enough to get you on and off a flight to Geneva with sufficient time to explore the city for a weekend.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon when you ask them for a price.

6. Hublot MP-13

The Hublot MP-13 is not only complicated. It's Hublot-level complicated. And if they made watches…they would be the most complex watches in the world. Well almost.

Hublot MP-13 - Source - Hublot

This essentially means that the movement is made in-house. While this may not seem impressive in the current climate of Rolex using their own foundries to make their own materials, Hublot still remains only one of a few watchmakers that can create a double-axis tourbillon in house, as per their earlier works of the MP-09 in 2017. You had me at tourbillon!

Hublot has a skeletonised dial which is enhanced by the sheer complexity of the hand and minute hands. They're not your standard hands, Timelords. In fact, they each operate along a scale and when they reach the end of it, the hands leap back to the beginning. Powerful stuff. Composed from titanium, it is rock solid and light which is key especially due to its 44m size.

Limited to just 55 pieces, you can buy a Hublot MP-13 at retail for £137,000 - at the time of writing.

7. Chopard Imperiale

Chopard love using a lotus flower motif on their Imperiale collection so much so that it's been used on movements and even crowns.

Chopard Imperiale - Source - Luxury Launches

The Lotus Flower appears again, this time on an 18K rose gold case and it takes up the entirety of the dial's face. While it may just look like a bejewelled piece of watchmaking, it's actually significantly more complicated than we might give it credit for. Let’s dive a little deeper and see what might bloom. The petals which are present near the top of the dial are capable of rotating on a disk which turns every 24 hours in order to symbolise the night sky or daytime. Confused as to how this works? The sapphire encrusted night sky rotates to show a diamond embedded disk which shines like the sun itself!

You can buy a Chopard when the prices are released later on.

8. Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech

The Panerai Radiomir collection is given a hearty and well deserved upgrade through the Quaranta.

Radiomir Quaranta - Source - New York Times

Deemed to be a smaller design at 40mm in comparison with the usual more oversized 45mm-47mm cases, the watch has been crafted out of Goldtech which is Panerai’s own take on gold. Its colour retains its luxurious gold shade and shows Panerai’s progression out of the stainless steel editions they have used previously. The white dial is given a sunburst finish which allows the engraved Goldtech indices to stand out clearly and the exhibition back gives a direct view of the P.900 calibre with strong 72 hour power reserve. This means you’ll have enough energy to shake hands on that business deal across the pond or take it on a city break without fretting over time.

You can buy a Panerai Radiomir Quaranta at retail for around £15,700 at the time of writing.

9. TAG Heuer Plasma Diamant D’Avant Garde Chronograph Tourbillon

Do you know anything about lab-grown diamonds? Well I’ll let you into a little secret…it’s going to take the watch world by storm. If Haute Horology couldn’t get any higher, we want to draw your attention to this shining example - The TAG Heuer Plasma Diamant D’Avant Garde Chronograph Tourbillon.

Source: TAG Heuer

With more diamonds than a chandelier, the initial launch of the Carrera Plasma was a huge success at last year's Watches and Wonders. In particular, the 44mm tourbillon model caused a real stir among the crowd. But now TAG is back with a whole host of new releases…bigger and brighter than ever thanks to this new limited-edition novelty. Boasting more than 120 lab grown diamonds and enjoying 15.5 carats, TAG Heuer has pushed down the timekeeping walls yet again. The first ever watch from the Swiss brand to feature lab-grown diamonds, this really was one of our top picks from Watches and Wonders 2023. Measuring 44mm, it is made from black aluminium, horological bijouterie is taken to an epic scale with incredible depths on the face as a result of the diamonds. The dial itself is nearly 5 carats with 12 diamonds with incredible reflective properties created by one diamond alone.

But what are its credentials? COSC certified and hand-finished, it is powered by the in-house Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement with the tourbillon pulsating through the face positioned at 6 o’clock. There are rhodium plated hour and minute hands including a striking lacquered black tone as well as white Super LumiNova®. Oscillating weight by way of the brand’s shield, 65 hour power reserve and enough lab-grown diamonds to sink a ship make it a timekeeping gem in our book.

A shout out should go to The Carrera Plasma Diamant D'Avant Garde 36mm. Since its release during Watches and Wonders in 2023 It's pushed forwards the very complex art of watchmaking with diamonds and has allowed this 44mm behemoth a chance to take the baton of developing this concept further. While the 36mm edition is imbued with diamonds and even included pink lab grown diamonds on the dial and crown only, the 44mm edition has been sized up and shows that diamonds can be situated anywhere, on the case and a stunner on the crown. Suffice to say, both are certainly eye-catching and bejewelled to the teeth!

You can buy a TAG Heuer Plasma Diamant D’Avant Garde Chronograph Tourbillon 36mm at around £81,000 at retail when the 36mm is released at the end of 2023 and you can buy the 44mm at around £450,000 when it is released September 2023. Buyer beware, the 36mm will be released in limited numbers!

Conclusion

There were a wealth of tantalising models on display at Watches and Wonders 2023. While we couldn't include them all, some honourable mentions must go to the Zenith Defy Skyline and its Skeleton brother…two wonderful watches crafted from the complex material of black ceramic. Furthermore, other brands like Bell & Ross released majestic watches like the BR 03 in a beautiful GMT style with a duo colour bezel and their BR 05. This shows Bell & Ross moving into the dress watch market by utilising a golden flange to enhance the skeletonised dial. Suffice to say, Watches and Wonders 2023 was a thrilling cavalcade of big brands strutting their stuff. It's only going to get better from here on in Timelords!

Want to get a Watches and Wonders 2023 watch of your own? Want to see if you can get your hands on one of the new novelties in our list? Why not cut away the time lost and speak to Chrono Hunter here? If you find the irresistible urge to buy a watch, why not explore our wonderful Trustpilot reviews to see why we are so revered by the public and the reasons customers consider us their number one choice!

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