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Form And Technik: Genta-inspired IWC Ingenieur Back With A Bang At Watches And Wonders 2023

For those of you keeping abreast of The Watches and Wonders 2023 event in Geneva which is unfolding right in front of our very eyes, you’ll have noticed that IWC has released a model which goes back to the time of the Nautilus and Royal Oak. Shockingly, it's also inspired by the very same gentleman, Gérald Genta! He does get about.

The 2023 Watches and Wonders event in Geneva has been action packed so far, with Rolex releasing the new Daytona’s, Vacheron going all retrograde with 3 new models and Patek Philippe enhancing their Calatrava collection…among many others across the 48 Maisons. And we don’t even have time to mention about Kermit The Frog making a surprise entrance at the event with the Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition. With an image of the Muppet himself slap bang in a date window at 6’ o'clock, could this be a new contender to the Rolex Submariner “Kermit?” Forget Julia Roberts and her full fringe look at the Chopard event or Roger Federer who rocked up to the Rolex stand. Well he is allowed, being their ambassador after all. However, the Swiss brand may not bring home the bacon just yet as IWC have something to say. Apologies Miss Piggy!

It’s, therefore, no surprise that the brand from Schaffhausen has decided to jump in on the fun and release a variety of models. These include the IWC Ceramic Pilots Chronograph 41, a Top Gun edition and Oceana edition which essentially changes the Top Gun design into a much cooler colour. Having released an IWC Big Pilot too, they are having a horological riot at Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva!

Time is very much of the essence if you want to keep up to speed with all the brand new releases. So here are the latest updates from IWC to the Ingenieur collection.

History Behind the Ingenieur

Originally created in the 1950’s, it wasn't until the 1970s that IWC called upon the very helpful hand of designer Gérald Genta in anticipation of redesigning the legendary Ingenieur.

Ingenieur 40 Automatic - Source - Acquire

The IWC Ingenieur was introduced during a period of growing technological advances. Cleverly, the introduction of the Ingenieur represented the first antimagnetic watch from IWC. Specifically, it was designed for the folks in the white coats, the scientists and those of that ilk. With a soft iron case, it helped defend against magnetism and was inspired by their previous release of the Pilots Watch Mark 11, previously granted to the British Air Force. After some circulation, it would go to Gérald Genta at the end of the 1960s to make the Ingenieur fresh and updated. Trust us, Timelords. He most certainly pulled it off!

Stemming from its predecessors which had a round case, the updated mode featured a screw on round bezel and a pattern on the dial not dissimilar to a checkerboard. This watch was pioneering and took the horological world by the scruff of its neck as it represented a luxury steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Or rather, it didn't. It was in fact unsuccessful and capped out at about 1000 models sold. What can we say, Timelords. Genius isn't always recognised straight away. This is despite the fact Genta has been responsible for some of the greatest horological designs of all time such as The Royal Oak and Cartier Pasha in 1985.

Named ‘The Jumbo’, the watch was fairly bulky for its time which linked to its tool watch identity. Over time, the watch has received many updates such as new automatic movements and integrated shock protection in order to keep the watch sturdy. Now that 2023 has spun around, the watch has been updated again. Can IWC keep up the groundbreaking work of a genius designer?

Design of The Ingenieur

The circular case has remained true throughout The Ingenieur's history and it's something that hasn't been lost in this recent update.

Ingenieur 40 Automatic - Source - WatchTime

For those thinking back to the 1832 edition created by Gérald Genta, when you look at this model, you have very keen eyes! The only significant changes that can be spotted from the watch are that the case has a larger degree of curve around the dial and the bezel screws are no longer non symmetrical. It seems like IWC has taken the original and tidied it up for the ever so picky modern consumer and enthusiast.

This is also relating to the past too, wherein the screws were a clever aesthetic choice by Gérald Genta. Now they serve a purpose as they keep the bezel screwed into the case itself, enhancing the security of the watch. Keep your eyes peeled as you may have missed the new crown guards which have been added to the watch which protect the crown, something which the original didn't have.

The original model’s design elements are maintained but are also fitted with new updates to keep the watch fresh and accessible to the modern consumer. In fact, three of the new variants released are crafted out of the very same stainless steel while only one is crafted out of the incredibly sophisticated titanium material which links again to IWC seeking to appease the modern markets.

All four of these new variants measure 40mm which is fairly slender on the wrist and can still be used for you professional folks to slide under your cuffs. The dials of each of the variants do have a few changes. One thing that we have noticed is they all look as striking as Julia Roberts' new hairdo that she revealed at Watches and Wonders 2023. The checkerboard design has been retained, but updated through new technology allowing it to look deeper and more refined. Specifically, the small squares are crafted through a stamp which is squeezed down onto some soft iron and then galvanised in order to give it it's distinct colouring.

The pattern runs through the entirety of the dial and only stops when encountering the minute track which circles around the edge of the dial or when reaching the date aperture at 3 o'clock. The stainless steel versions feature silver-plated, aqua or black dials with the aqua dial having two contrasting light and dark shades of green for each individual square. Chrono Hunter would suggest that the silver plated and black dials are for those looking to keep with the older models but with newer technology so Form und Technik are not compromised. While there’s nothing wrong with that outlook, you may find yourself absorbed into the suave colouring of the teal dial and its contrasting concentric squares.

The titanium edition keeps the retro aesthetic with a grey dial which is inoffensive and varies between light grey and dark grey squares. There are similarities throughout all the watches such as the date aperture at 3 o'clock and the indices and hands, apart from the seconds hand, being dosed with Super-Luminova. The bracelet is refined and matches the same style from Gérald Genta’s editions which follow the structure of an integrated H-link bracelet. The fact it's integrated and follows the same polished aesthetic as the case means the watch is seamless and looks even better on the wrist.

The bracelet utilises a folding clasp which sits beautifully on the bottom of the bracelet and blends in a treat. The bracelet is ultimately stylish and ergonomic like a fine leather upholstery chair and gives your wrist all the support it needs without it feeling heavy or sharp.

Technical Elements Of The Ingenieur

While we are unlucky to not have an exhibition back to see the wonderful movement in action, we can still appreciate its detail from afar!

Ingenieur 40 Automatic - Source - Revolution Watch

With a nod to its original purpose of being a watch for the eggheads, there is a soft iron cage inside of all the models which offer the exact purpose of fighting against magnetism. Of course, other brands like Rolex are now using a Parachrom spring to deter magnetism. We believe that the soft cage suits the aesthetic IWC are going for which is retro inspired. The calibre 32111 offers a phenomenal 120 hours power reserve. It beats at a steady 4Hz and powers the date complication and hacking seconds complication too. This is by far the longest surviving watch out of many big brands, including the Gérald Genta inspired Nautilus and Royal Oak. 1 point for the underdog!

Will The Ingenieur Hold Its Value?

These four releases by IWC are exceptional and are a showcase that they can cater for audiences in today’s ever growing collector world.

Ingenieur 40 Automatic - Source - Highsnobiety

Due to the model coming from the Gérald Genta inspired collection, these watches have every chance of becoming a possible investment potential, especially the green dialled model which deviates away from traditional colours and produces a spellbinding colour scheme. The titanium edition goes even further, moving away from stainless steel and utilising modern materials which are both more durable and lighter than their stainless steel counterparts.

Essentially, the watches reflect the design styles of the 1976 Gérald Genta Ingenieur SL 1832 while utilising the latest technology like the in-house calibre 32111 which has a very strong power reserve of 120 hours. Old and new worlds are colliding before our very eyes here. But what about the style stakes? We know this is just as important for devoted followers of watchmaking. All four timepieces can be easily paired with a smart or casual outfit due to their timeless and oh so evergreen design. The teal/aqua version in particular would suit a perfect simple dress down outfit due to the more interesting colour design on the dial. These watches are ones to watch and have been exceptional editions to the Watches and Wonders 2023 event in Geneva.

You can buy an IWC Ingenieur in stainless steel for £10,500 while the titanium edition has an RRP of £12,900.

Conclusion

There’s no letdown yet time peeps and it’s not even the end of Day 4! Watches and Wonders 2023 has been a true horological kaleidoscope of new releases, reveals and a few twists. And it seems complications are on today’s agenda. But no doubt, The IWC Ingenieur models have represented a new change for the brand as they take old styles and blend them effortlessly with new elements to entice both collectors and enthusiasts.

They strip away any need for pomposity or ostentatious design, while these models both appreciate and give a nod to the impact of Gérald Genta’s iconic model. The fact they are willing to deviate from stainless steel and utilise titanium for one of the models shows their willingness to evolve. Keep Geneva shining for the rest of Watches and Wonders 2023, IWC!

Craving to buy an IWC? Can't wait to see your eyes shine against the ingenious sapphire crystal? Why not stop your worrying and engage with Chrono Hunter right here. We can appreciate why you would want to buy a watch, especially in the wake of Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva. So kick back and have a gander through our Trustpilot reviews or download our app to save money on your next purchase…the smart way!

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