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Chrono Hunter's Bold Predictions and Outlandish Forecasts Part 2: Watches and Wonders

UPDATED MARCH 2024

This year has already been a whirlwind of horological delight for watch addicts. Only recently, we saw the hottest collaboration since 2022, as Omega and Swatch unveils The Golden Moon Watch while H. Moser & Cie have recently tantalised our peepers thanks to the introduction of the H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum.

It’s only right we maintain our composure (as such) and look forward to the hotly anticipated Watches and Wonders in Geneva. Previous releases we have admired at this prestigious event include Seiko’s release of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, worth almost £300,000 and the release of the left-handed Rolex GMT Master II.

We predict that you will thoroughly enjoy this article and buy a watch from us (insert 90s hypno wheel) Read on!

A New Colour For The Tudor Pelagos 39?

From the Tudor Pelagos 39 original release in 2012 to their updated version in 2022, we are hedging a bet that a potential blue edition will be released at Watches and Wonders. Odds on this aint but we’re simply clutching at some well founded straws.

It isn't like blue is foreign to the Pelagos collection. If we cast our minds back to the turbulent time of 2021, the Pelagos FXD came with a blue bezel, dial and matching strap. May we say it looks absolutely glorious.

The Tudor Pelagos 39 is already an icon in the watch community. Lauded by many as the best dive watch in the world, it keeps Swiss giants like the Rolex Submariner and the Sea Dweller Deepsea on their toes, allowing alternative options for those looking to buy a watch with big boy diving capabilities.

Pelagos 39 - Source - Tudor

The Tudor Pelagos 39 represents a change from the standard dive watch, due to its smaller size in comparison to its Black Bay brother at 42mm. A much more suave design despite its dive watch characteristics, it is much more fashionable and perfect as a daily driver.

The sunray effect on the bezel and dial which when combined with its sandblasted flange, gives a seamless design that projects the white hands and markers. Perfect for those looking to buy a Tudor with a little glamour.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it doesn't have a helium escape valve. However, it does have a unidirectional serrated bezel as a reminder that this is still very much a diving watch.

Alongside the very legible SuperLuminova indices and hands, this is certainly a watch that fills in the space between the bulky Pelagos predecessors and its Black Bay brethren.

Modern and vibrant, if this watch does materialise, it would certainly be a strong investment opportunity as the Tudor Pelagos collection is already highly regarded. For example, the Pelagos FXD won ‘Best Divers Watch’ at GPHG showing how the potential for the Pelagos collection to vastly increase in value may be limitless.

If you buy a Tudor with the new blue dial and strap, it would mean the watch could be worn while kicking back on your yacht or firing out spreadsheets in your outfit conscious workplace.

Chrono Hunter thinks that blue could modernise the model even further, pushing the Pelagos to

Rolex Submariner Undergoes A Full Transformation

We mentioned in our previous Bold Predictions and Outlandish Forecasts article that the Explorer would be dressed up in titanium.

Rolex Submariner - Source - Rolex

Now, we aren't saying that this won't happen. Wouldn't it be great though if the Rolex Submariner got in on the act? The Submariner could very easily be deemed as Rolex’s key sports watch since its release in 1953 and with its 70th anniversary coinciding with Watches and Wonders, we may see this phenomenal milestone celebrated with a new design.

This wouldn't be a concept that's unheard of by Rolex. For example, In 2005, Rolex released the GMT-Master II Green Dial 116718LN as a celebration of the GMT-Master’s 50th anniversary.

This is also a watch you should look at if you want to buy a Rolex as it's eternally cool with its unique green dial. You could easily pull this off with an outfit as equally daring such as a dark green shirt with tapered chinos.

This was the first watch to have a dial in Rolex’s signature green and have the ‘Super case’ design which is a bulkier structure. Just like the Submariner has now on its bezel, this was also the first watch to have a Cerachrom bezel.

Rolex has progressed more towards titanium ever since their first attempt with the Deepsea Challenge 126067. This was highly successful commercially and the inherent lightness of the titanium made sense to utilise on a watch which is well known to be bulbous.

The Submariner has seen alterations fairly recently, namely in 2020 wherein the case increased in size from 40mm to 41mm. Meanwhile, the calibre was upgraded to the 3230 instead of the old 3130.

These physical adjustments were only rather small, but do suggest that Rolex are willing to alter their most prized possession. Maybe Rolex will pluck up the courage to boldly go where no other titanium watch has gone before and release a blue dial and bezel? The Submariner is already valuable and highly sought after among watch circles.

But this alteration to one of the greatest Rolex’s ever created could see its value boom due to being such an unprecedented move. It's definitely food for thought if you want to buy a Rolex. Worn diving into the seas in Bali or a statement piece while shaking hands with your boss over dinner, watch out for more info next month.

Gods of the watch world, grant us this wish!

The Milgauss Gets Revitalised

This really is a do or die situation for The Rolex Milgauss.

The Milgauss doesn't get the praise it very much deserves. Born from the desires of scientists to tell the time in places with strong magnetic fields, it has the capability of resisting magnetic fields up to 1000 gauss according to CERN.

As if that little statistic wasn't enough to make you want to buy a Rolex Milgauss, the second hand is crafted in the shape of an orange lightning bolt paying tribute to the original model. Oh yes, timelords, this model really is a beast and worth a second glimpse if you want to buy a Rolex.

Rolex Milgauss - Source - Rolex

Rolex haven't touched this collection since 2007 and after the removal of the white dial 116400 in 2016, only a measly two models remain in the collection - a ‘Z-Blue’ dial and a black dial.

Frankly, it would take some Frankenstein style science to revive the Rolex Milgauss back from its lull of silence…but we can only hope. It's on this horological notion that we predict (crystal balls at the ready) that Rolex will release a new Milgauss model at Watches and Wonders 2023.

If it doesn't, we fear that the Milgauss collection has rang its own death knell.

Omega has been one of the leaders of the anti-magnetism movement as their Master Chronometer Certification movements has allowed them to produce resistance to magnetism averaging 15,000 gauss on almost all of its timepieces.

Yet, The Milgauss is revered as an anti-magnetic watch but is somewhat limited to a resistance of 1000 gauss. Doesn't really seem like much to boast about in the modern era. If the Milgauss was released, it could bring back some credibility to its waning reputation. Hopefully we won’t see it slide into the abyss of discontinued models.

The Rolex Air King and the Milgauss are very similar at 40mm but the Air King 126900 has been updated with crown guards and the new calibre 3230 as opposed to the Milgauss 3131. Due to their similarities, it wouldn't be foolish to imagine the Milgauss seeing an update of any upgraded calibre or design technicalities.

Chrono Hunter predicts that the unique green sapphire crystal and the orange lightning bolt seconds hand will remain. That’s if we separate the tea leaves for a second!

The differences however will come in the form of new crown guards and calibre like the Air King and, this is a very big maybe, possibly the re-introduction of the white dial, previously discontinued in 2016.

The Rolex Milgauss, as most Rolex’s are by their very existence, are valuable. For example, you can buy a Rolex Milgauss at retail for £7,850 but on the secondary market, it sells for upwards of £10,000 at the time of writing.

This update would revitalise one of their quieter collections and re-popularise it, making it more collectable and thus more valued. If fitted with a white dial, it would suit the relaxed atmosphere of a casual Friday dress down office day, paired with a cashmere jumper so the watch is visible.

Do it for your pride, Rolex. Let's get the Milgauss back to where it belongs!

The Rolex Daytona Gets A Makeover

The Rolex Daytona is always the go to coveted timepiece for those looking to buy a Rolex. Simply put, it started off not so dandy, reaching the point where retailers were offering discounts on the watch.

After its new release at Baselworld with a ceramic bezel and the subsequent hype of Paul Newman's model selling for around £14m, the watch boomed and has become coveted ever since.

While the Rolex Daytona is extremely collectable and highly regarded amongst all watch aficionados, it hasn't been updated since its 2016 alteration of a Cerachrom bezel and black rings around the counters.

Before that, there was only a platinum version with a brown ceramic bezel in 2013 after a 13 year wait from the last update in 2000 in the form of the reference 116520.

While the 2013 and 2016 updates were fairly significant, 2000 represented the introduction of the in-house automatic calibre 4130, which was a big deal at the time. But time moves on as they say.

In our previous article, we referenced The Rolex Daytona would possibly have a new dial colour, an increase in model size and the far fetched possibility of seeing a pimped up new model in celebration of its Diamond Jubilee. If it happened, would you immediately buy a Rolex Daytona? We know we certainly would.

In this case, we predict that a new colour scheme, sizing and sporty effects will come into play. We feel that the calibre 4130 is very strong as it is, with its Parachrom hairspring and column wheel, ensuring exceptional precision and phenomenal shock stability.

But forecasting the next iteration of the Daytona is as tricky as guessing the Grand National winner.

Rolex Daytona - Source - Rolex

But with forecasts, it really is horses for courses especially in the watch world. We consider that the colour could relate back to the 116610LV. The brilliant green dial and bezel on top of the yellow gold case and bracelet was stunning and sadly discontinued in 2021.

This model was then updated as the 126610LV which had a more conservative black dial with a green bezel.

However, we think that Rolex will shake things up like one of Erik Ten Hag’s lineups after Manchester United’s 7-0 capitulation to arch rivals Liverpool. They may bring in a different colour scheme altogether from other models such as the GMT Master II 'Root Beer’.

This delightful colour scheme has been exceptionally popular since its release in 2018. As Rolex liked to cut parties short, this was promptly replaced with a steel and yellow gold GMT II Master II variation.

Let's be honest, a Rolex Daytona will be valuable even if it came out with a 0.01mm size difference such is the horological pull. However, if the Everose gold and steel colour scheme comes to fruition, this will prompt a surge in demand due to these never before seen hues.

It will also mean the watch will be suitable to wear not just for sporting occasions but even at a glitzy dinner with your friends. We therefore predict albeit with no clue whatsoever that a new Rolex Daytona reference will be released in Everose gold and steel with an increased size to 41mm.

What say you?

A New IWC Ingenieur Materialises At Watches And Wonders

IWC were so far ahead of the game that they needed to slow down to let others catch up.

IWC Ingenieur - Source - IWC

Admittedly, that first line may have been slightly clickbaity but there is a little bit of truth to it. The demand for integrated bracelets as we move into an increasingly dress watch world is rising. In fact, it's increasing so much that even the big brands are cobbling together to release past models with the integrated bracelet design.

Look no further than the PRX by Tissot which was originally released in 1978. They re-released it in 2021 and found it to be a massive success. Although not one of the top Swiss brands, the PRX is still the hot ticket in watch circles. This isn't an isolated example either.

In our previous outlandish article on what we predict for 2023, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 was brought up and for good reason.

Their release of this model in 2022 was extremely sought after, resulting in the possibility of another release in 2023 in the awesome yellow gold and steel colour scheme. Using these precedents, it wouldn't be silly to imagine that IWC joined the timekeeping party with their own integrated bracelet design, The Ingenieur.

Think more Singapore Sling rather than a Jagermeister.

The Igenieuer originates from the period where Gerald Genta was revolutionising the watch design world. As designer of the legendary Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Royal Oak, The Ingenieur could rise from the ashes as the third ‘work of art’ in the modern era.

It doesn't just have the integrated bracelet to sell. It also has 5 exposed screws which although don't marry up to the Royal Oak’s octagonal 8 screw design, create the same uncommon allure and retroism which watch peeps are looking for nowadays.

It was said to be released at Watch and Wonders last year but IWC have kept us in insufferable suspense. Previously released in 1955, it was geared for scientists and engineers as there wasn't anything design wise that related it to a dress or sports watch.

Using a soft iron shield around the movement, the watches were resistant to magnetism up to 1000 gauss and preceded the highly lauded Rolex Milgauss.

It went from this fairly plain model with the unique ‘Ingenieur’ logo on the dial to a very bold, dynamic sports watch, offering 120m water resistance, five visible screw holes and a new integrated bracelet.

This IWC has the potential to be very valuable if released. Taking inspiration from the Royal Oak and Nautilus, it could join and form a trio of uniquely designed watches with Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.

Furthermore, its eclectic design would allow the watch to be worn proudly as a casual chic number at a friends birthday bash or teasing everyone below shirt sleeves while hosting a seminar. Either way it's definitely worth looking at if you want to buy an IWC.

A new Ignenieur release with an in-house IWC movement and increased anti-magnetism through silicon parts and balance wheel with hairspring could restore IWC Ingenieur’s reputation as the anti-magnetic watch of the moment.

Watches And Wonders Predictions 2024: Our Outlandish Thoughts

2023 has been and gone, leaving 2024 to rise like a Rolex price increase. With mighty big horological boots to fill, we first think it’s best if we collate all the top watches spotted from Watches and Wonders 2023:

Rolex was on top form, releasing an entirely new line, The Rolex 1908, alongside a titanium variant of the Yacht-Master 42mm and a fresh slew of styles and sizes across The Daytona and Explorer.
Vacheron Constantin introduced a range of fresh releases, including a brand new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date, Patrimony with a stunning Retrograde Day-Date complication and a set of new sizes for the Overseas Self-Winding line. How could we forget the Traditionnelle Tourbillon with leafy green dial!
Patek Philippe perhaps took pole position as the most updated brand, releasing 17 new models in the form of a Calatrava 6007G, Aquanaut Luce and a highly complicated Grandmaster Chime.
Tudor released a few new plays on their classic models, including a Black Bay with a burgundy bezel and a new Pepsi GMT against an opaline dial.
IWC turned back the clock to bring back legendary designer Gerald Genta’s timepieces to the forefront of their portfolio. This was largely thanks to the release of the Ingenieur timepieces with teal and grey checkerboard dials.
Oris gave us all a chuckle with a Muppet inspired timepiece which featured everyone’s swamp loving bon ami Kermit The Frog residing in the date aperture.
Bell & Ross sought to lose their military legacy with a fabulous new BR 03-92 which featured a ship inspired bronze case and a delightful white dial.

For the rest of the releases, we would be remiss if we failed to direct you towards Chrono Hunter's Definitive Guide To All Major Novelties At Watches And Wonders 2023

But wait a second. We’ve lamented long enough on what 2023 has offered. Sure, it was a great year and horology has exploded again with innovation. But 2024 is queuing up to be another great year. After all, it's already yielded new watches like the best Chinese New Year Dragon inspired timepieces such as the limited edition IWC Portugieser.

How about the Grammys 2024 and the Emmys 2024 which saw stars like Timothée Chalamet adorning a Cartier Crash and Barry Keoghan dazzle us with a 34mm Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm.

Honourable mention: Jaeger LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon. Given a blue lacquered enamel dial along with the legendary ultra-thin calibre and tourbillon complication, this is a go-to timepiece for horophiles looking for a little dressy delight and uber sophistication.

So, let’s get into our predictions at Watches and Wonders 2024. If we get over half correct, you have to read 10 articles from us!

Rolex To Offer A New Update For The Milgauss Collection

It’s very strange that The Rolex Milgauss has been left so silent, for so long. Maybe it’s worth rolling the dice a second time and predicting the Milgauss for a fresh update.

Source - Rolex

The Rolex Milgauss originated from the brands desire to satisfy the exploding scientific market of the 1950s. Partnering with CERN in 1956 and subsequently releasing the Milgauss, the models feature an iconic lightning bolt seconds hand, accompanied by the all important 1,000 gauss figure.

Most watches couldn't surpass 50 Gauss, so this was a monumental innovation for the brand. Utilising a faraday cage to protect the movement from magnetism, the watch was originally a significant achievement by the brand.

In 2024 however, this innovation will be rendered obsolete. Brands like Omega have movements that can capably reach 15,000 gauss and have even tested a prototype Seamaster which can reach 160,000 gauss.

Therefore, how can a watch built on being resistant to gauss hold any weight in the current climate, when it's being destroyed by other brand collections known for diving!

What if Rolex came out of the gate with a fresh play on the Milgauss that was capable of toppling Omega’s 15,000 gauss rating?

Rolex are known for operating entirely in house, including making their own materials, utilising their own Superlative Chronometer movements and even developing specific elements for their movements such as Parachrom Hairsprings and Paraflex shock absorbers.

They could capably turn their vast engineering team to craft a movement that could beat the current record for Gauss, and restore The Milgauss’ legacy as the go to collection for the scientific community.

They could keep the iconic lightning seconds hand and all the current design codes, but offer a fresh movement. They could even state “Certified Gauss Resistant” and the name of the movement to add rarity to the new line.

It’s a long shot, but who knows!

A Fresh Play On The Rolex GMT-Master Coke

When Rolex discontinued The Rolex GMT-Master Coke back in 2007, it left a sizable gap in the GMT-Master II portfolio. So are you hungry horophiles thirsty for a brand new take?

Source - Sotheby’s

With hints being made about the discontinuation of The Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi, due to the difficulty in producing the famed red and blue bezel, it would appear a new Coke return is not as unlikely as it sounds. Reminds me of that song…oh yes, always the real thing!

So what is the GMT-Master II Coke? Introduced in 1983 under reference 16760, the line is one of the rarer dual colour models, alongside others like the Batman and Root Beer. To further this, Rolex actually filed a patent for New Ceramic Insert Colouring Technology.

With Rolex already taking giant leaps in the coloured bezel world, the prospect of a Coke increases. This is especially true considering the patent does specify a new red and black ceramic bezel.

Although we have a penchant for the Sprite, We may discover come Watches and Wonders 2024 that a range of new colourways could be introduced. This may lead to not just a new Coke, but perhaps the preservation of Pepsi and a whole new line.

RC Cola anyone?

Tudor Turns To The Oyster Prince Submariner 7922 For Design Inspiration

Why specifically reference 7922 from Tudor’s eclectic Oyster Prince Submariner collection?

7922 - Source - Tudor

As the earliest reference from the Submariner line, it represents Tudor's initial step into dive timepieces and the start of Tudor’s most collectable range. Initially brought to the table in 1954, the models are without crown guards which is quite distinctive for a dive watch.

Capable of reaching 100 metres of water resistance and fitted with a bi-directional bezel and red triangle at 12 o’clock, they closely imitated the Rolex Submariner. While Rolex were huge players in the brand's success, the Black Bay was actually the main source of inspiration, including the rivet bracelet and no date face.

With such a vast array of design codes that could be manipulated, the line was stopped in 1999, but its legacy lives on through the Black Bay. In 2023, the Black Bay 54 line was introduced which retained some of the signature features of the Submariner 7922.

It’s been 70 years since the Prince Submariner 7922 was brought to the public eye. With the new Black Bay line, this could be the ultimate point for Tudor to reintroduce a few features such as a no date dial, riveted bracelet and maybe a no crown guard design.

Audemars Piguet’s New CEO To Offer Surprise Release

This one is as uncertain as England's next tax-cuts.

For 30 years, Audemars Piguet has been under the careful eye of CEO François-Henry Bennahmias until the start of 2024. He has been replaced by Firmenich cosmetics industry impresario, Ilaria Resta.

Ilaria Resta - Source - Cosmetic Executive Women

What you can expect is a shift in releases and styles that is unprecedented. After all, under Bennahmias, he breathed new life into the Royal Oak line and brought Audemars Piguet from a brand of the past to a hot line that celebs flock to like a Taylor Swift concert.

Need we mention the Royal Oak Spider-Man which features a white gold Spider-Man character seemingly floating in midair on the dial? How about their collaboration with current star Travis Scott and the subsequent release of the skeletonised Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Cactus Jack?

Forget Wacko Jacko. It appears that Bennahmias was the king of pop-culture watches and fused the brand with the biggest titles out there. Sadly for now, Resta is untested and the waters are unchartered as we see it regarding what she will be introducing into the brands portfolio.

Time will tell but AP is in a good position for now especially after the latest Morgan Stanley report. Topping brands like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet have jumped up to the fourth top of Top Swiss brands with 2.4 billion CHF, narrowly missing out to Omega, Cartier and Rolex.

Will she keep on the trendy train and release some crazy pieces at Watches and Wonders 2024? Or will she be taking things slow and steady with a few minor tweaks?

IWC Aquatimer

Like The Rolling Stones The IWC Aquatimer has a big legacy and even bigger back catalogue behind it...but an apparent lack of update in recent years.

IW328802 - Source - IWC

Launched in 1967, the Aquatimer was IWC’s step towards appeasing the growing dive market of the 1960s. Capable of reaching 200 metres of water resistance and featuring an internal rotating bezel to calculate dive times, the line became IWC’s flagship for the dive orientated community.

In recent times, the only significant IWC Aquatimer releases are back in 2022, such as the Aquatimer Automatic IW328802 which was released as an update to the IW329001 model that was released in 2014. However, the sizing remained the same and it was only the movement that was improved, including a phenomenal 5 day power reserve.

So, we believe it’s high time that the IWC Aquatimer receives some much needed affection in the form of a new release. We think they’ll hark back to their revolutionary roots in the form of the Aquatimer GST. Capable of reaching 2000 metres and crafted out of titanium, we reckon that IWC can bring this beast back with extra bite.

Limited edition? Maybe, but it may be their next smash hit!

Conclusion

In our view, the Watches and Wonders exhibition will be a phenomenal affair with all the big horological dogs at the top table. If our predictions slide the right way, we could see a new world order for Rolex as they alter some of their greatest models like the Daytona and Submariner.

As for The Tudor Pelagos, it could obtain even more kudos as the best dive watch around while IWC could modernise a watch that is comparable in aesthetics to the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Exciting times!

We’ve had a pop and a prod at what we think Watch and Wonders may bring. It's important to reiterate for those placing bets that we have no insider knowledge or have overheard any talk or gossip in Rolex’s toilets. You’ll just have to stay tuned.

Looking at both past and present, we can only work with what we have with a smattering of licking our fingers in the wind. We hope you enjoyed our bash at what Watches and Wonders could bring and enticed you to buy a watch if any of these come to fruition.

If you’re looking to buy a Rolex to get ahead of the predictions or intend to buy an IWC with its Gerald Genta inspired design, why not have a chat with Chrono Hunter today?

You only need to have a look at our outstanding Trustpilot reviews to see why we are so revered. Utilising our strong links with established luxury retailers, we can put you in contact with those who offer the best deals around. Feel free to contact us anytime if you are looking to buy a watch or sell a watch!

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