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Should You Still Buy A Rolex Sea-Dweller In 2024?

Released in 1967, The Rolex Sea-Dweller is a significant part of the brand, and we don’t just mean due to its mahoosive size!

Almost on the 50mm Rolex Deepsea Challenge level, it is a critical tool for scuba divers, and lately a strong fashion pointer for statement watch lovers. And that’s not all. We have become keen lovers of the oversized beauties!

Currently, the watches pack some high powered stats.

Yielding Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification alongside the choice to choose between steel and two tone steel and gold, the timepieces have consistently evolved into the highly capable watches that can cope with 1,220 metres of water resistance.

Today, Chrono Hunter will be revealing everything you need to know before you consider purchasing a Sea-Dweller in 2024. We will take an in depth look into the history of the collection, key features, top models to date, and investment potential behind the collection.

WIthout further ado, allow Chrono Hunter to reveal all the key details behind the divers best friend, The Sea-Dweller, and why you should consider it a worthy investment this year.

History Behind The Rolex Sea-Dweller

Rolex and dive watches go together like Thelma and Louise or Gilbert and Sullivan.

In 1953, they released the Submariner which became the first modern dive watch and subsequently became immensely popular over time.

Source - Rolex

The original line was launched in 1967 under reference 1665.

Earning the nickname “Double Red” due to the two lines of red text on the dial, it mentioned both “Submariner” and “Sea-Dweller”, linking to the rich divers legacy of the Submariner coming through the fresh Sea-Dweller collection.

The Sea-Dweller was a much more specialised dive watch compared with the Submariner. Capable of reaching 660 metres of underwater resistance in a 40mm case, they have a helium escape valve for optimal resistance underwater.

Updated in 1978, the Sea-Dweller received a sapphire crystal and larger case, including a larger helium escape valve. This brought the introduction of the “triple 6” reference which makes up a matte dial.

11 years later in 1989 when The Hoff was singing sweetly at the Fall of The Berlin Wall, they introduced the use of Super Luminova as opposed to tritium and Luminova.

In 2008, they went one step further with the capabilities of the Rolex Sea-Dweller.

This saw the introduction of the Sea-Dweller Deepsea. Still a firm part of the Sea-Dweller family, the 44mm timepieces are equipped with 5mm thick sapphire crystals alongside their patented Ring Lock System.

A Titanic Moment In Time With James Cameron’s DeepSea Dive

Furthermore, this reference saw the brand new Chromalight display which enhanced the legibility of the dial for optimal vision when underwater.

Capable of a stonking 12,800 metres of resistance underwater (if you want to flaunt some divers that are this far in the underwater depths), the line features a specialised James Cameron D-Blue watch, in celebration of the solo descent to the Mariana trench.

This of course was rocked on the wrist of movie director and Titanic impresario James Cameron.

James Cameron on the Challenger - Source - New York Times

For James Cameron’s dive, he had the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deep Sea Challenge strapped onto the side of his submarine. Totalling 51.4mm in case diameter, the timepiece was incredibly strong and was designed specifically out of grade 5 titanium.

Fitted with a domed shaped sapphire crystal, there is a Ringlock system that allowed the watches to become essential tools to James Cameron's expedition, including helping him accurately read the time throughout his descent.

After this incredible feat, the Rolex Deepsea James Cameron was released in 2014 to commemorate the spectacle.

Swiftly becoming one of the most sought after models, it’s associations with James Cameron, and the unique blue-to-black gradient dial is highly desirable, as it generally contradicts the matte style dials that Rolex is known for.

The classic Sea-Dweller saw its next updates in 2014 following the final reference 116600 having its five year break from the market. Fitted with a Cerachrom insert (another of their excellent patents), the watches dropped back down to 40mm.

The 116600 unfortunately is one of the references that had the shortest production run in Rolex history. This is a plus for collectors as it had such a short supply of three years, meaning the demand naturally rises over the low supply figures.

Fitted with a Maxi dial, this style first appeared on the Submariner, and essentially enlarges the hour markers, while the Sea-Dweller features 60-minute indications as opposed to 15 minute markers on the bezel.

Currently, the Sea-Dweller is available in a 43mm case diameter which sits one millimetre under the high-powered Sea-Dweller Deepsea.

The modern models feature a Cyclops eye over the date complication at 3 o’clock, alongside a brand new Calibre 3235 that provides a strong power reserve of 70 hours.

Reference Timeline Of The Rolex Sea-Dweller

Reference	Date	Characteristics
1665	1967-1980	Built into a 40mm steel case, the watches feature a helium escape valve and matte black dial. Furthermore, there are two lines of red text which received the nickname “Double Red”.
16660	1978	The “Triple Six” models increased the water resistance from 1220 to 4000. A sapphire crystal was added and a more prominent helium escape valve.
16600	1988 - 2008	Featuring a brand new 3135 calibre, the timepieces retain their 40mm steel cases.
1166600	2008	Released in a giant 44mm steel case, the water resistance increased again to 3,900 metres. Featuring a patented Ring Lock System, this enhances water resistance and protects the 3135 calibre. This is the reference of the legendary Deepsea D-Blue 1166600. Released in 2014, it celebrated the historic dive of James Cameron who committed to the first ever solo dive to the Mariana Trench, the deepest point of the ocean. This is given a graduated blue dial alongside “Deepsea” in neon green text.
116600	2014	This represented the comeback of the Sea-Dweller in its 40mm glory. Given a thicker size, the watches feature a black ceramic bezel alongside a 60-minute ceramic diving scale, and black face.
126600	2017	Released at Baselworld 2017, the Sea-Dweller 126600 was released to celebrate 50 years of the Sea-Dweller. Totalling 43mm of steel and fitted with a steel case, the movements are fitted with a 3235 calibre, 70 hour power reserve and fresh Cyclops eye situated over the date aperture.

Everything You Need To Know About The Modern Rolex Sea-Dweller?

Fast forward to contemporary times and the modern Sea-Dweller is a wonderful demonstration of all of their latest patents.

This is in keeping with the dimensions similar to the classic design elements, packing in diving heritage that is firmly embedded into these specific models.

Materials

Rolex treats us all to a horological feast with only the best materials possible in the luxury world. For example, The Oyster Perpetual reference 126603 is made up of two materials, totalling steel and yellow gold.

Defined as “Rolesor '', this material combines both yellow gold and steel. The steel is their patented Oyster Steel. It is made up of 904L steel, the very same material used in the aerospace and chemical industries. It produced a stunning lustre when polished, and is inherently very durable.

The combination of gold offers a luxurious sheen to the watches. They use 18K yellow gold which is highly valuable and is typically polished to produce a stunning sheen. Rolesor was originally used in the early 1930s and harmoniously blends the luxury, strength and performance of the two materials.

Across the board, the materials are exceptionally durable and work in conjunction with the screw-down crown and solid back. Hold on a second, where’s this helium escape valve?

As opposed to the Omega Seamaster with its prominent crown at 10 o’clock, this is built into the case at 9 o’clock, to provide a phenomenal 1,220 metres of water resistance.

Dials

For the available Sea-Dweller models in the modern era, they both come with black dials that are reminiscent of the classic Sea-Dweller models. This is similarly the case on the large hands and hour markers, present in dot and baton hour markers.

At 3 o’clock, there is a very handy date aperture that is exemplified by a Cyclops eye. This patent offers a magnifying effect, enhancing the legibility of the complication.

For yellow gold two tone models, the hour markers are given gilt edges while the classic steel models are available with steel edges.

Interestingly, the yellow gold watch similarly has the “Sea-Dweller'' text in yellow gold, opposing the classic red lettering of the steel model.

All the faces utilise Chromalight for their displays. This material enhances legibility, and provides a neon blue glow that lasts up to eight hours…twice as long as standard luminescence.

Bezels

If you decide to purchase a Rolex Sea-Dweller for the bezels, enthusiasts and collectors can utilise a Cerachrom 60-minute unidirectional rotatable design, allowing divers to measure their dive performance and decompression times.

Secured with a patented Cerachrom insert, this is a form of scratch-proof ceramic that is clearly visible in all manner of low-level conditions.

For yellow gold two tone models, they incorporate a yellow gold serrated edge, while the steel models feature the classic steel grip edge.

Bracelets

Affixed onto an Oyster bracelet, this capably blends form and function, revealing a robust and dressy bracelet that allows versatility across a host of special occasions.

Beach party? Easy! Deep-sea underwater depths? Absolutely. Secured with an Oysterclasp and Glidelock mechanism, the timepieces can capably extend the bracelet with consummate ease.

Movement

All current Sea-Dweller watches are decked out with the high-powered 3235 calibre. This provides an excellent -2/+2 seconds per day precision and first rate performance as to be expected.

Fitted with a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, there is a weekend-proof 70 hour power reserve, responsible for the date function and central timekeeping.

Superlative Chronometer certified? Expect phenomenal performance if you buy a Rolex of this nature!

Top Models From The Rolex Sea-Dweller Collection

Rolex Sea-Dweller 126603

The Sea-Dweller reference 126603 is the latest iteration of the stunning Sea-Dweller collection. Away from the classic steel materials, they opted to add another level of luxury to what is in our view an impressive novelty. Oh Hans, how you appease us divers!

Source - Rolex

This time round, they use steel and gold for reference 126603. This Rolesor combination has been a part of their portfolio since the early 1930s.

They trademarked the material back in 1933 and the combination of Oyster steel and yellow gold have since become a crucial combination in their stable.

The Oyster steel material is their very own 904L alloy, offering an incredible lustre alongside excellent durability. The 18K yellow gold blend offers a brand new luxurious touch to the brilliant steel case, along the bezel and centre links of the bracelet.

The unidirectional bezel features a black Cerachrom insert, totalling a 60-minute scale that’s used for divers to measure dive compression times. Given PVD gold along the indices, they clearly stand out from the black insert.

But there’s nothing spooky going on with the pitch black dial…it’s a real banger. If you want to scare up a treat, why not read our guide to the best watches for Halloween.

Featuring large hands and indices, relating to the classic models, the Sea-Dweller text on this model is in gold as opposed to the classic red variant.

The face is made up of a Chromalight display, enhancing the legibility of the hands and hour markers with a neon blue glow. At 3 o’clock, you will notice the date aperture with a Cyclops eye for pristine legibility.

Affixed onto an Oyster bracelet, the watches are durable and luxurious. Furthermore, they are strapped together with an Oyster clasp and Glidelock insert to allow an extension to stretch over divers suits.

Within the timepieces beats the phenomenal 3235 calibre, offering unbridled performance, a -2/+2 seconds per day precision, 70 hour power reserve and patents like Paraflex shock absorbers and blue Parachrom hairspring.

You can buy a Rolex Sea-Dweller 126603 at retail for £16,450 as of June 2024.

Rolex Sea-Dweller - Red Qaboos

The Sea-Dweller reference 1665 is the original reference from the Sea-Dweller collection. Much like what Adam West is to the role of Batman. An all time classic.

While this is inherently an exceptionally valuable reference due to its vintage heritage, this reference is associated with the Sultanate of Oman.

Source - Christie’s

It’s estimated that only 100 Sea-Dweller watches were made for Oman. While some models featured the Khanjar emblem, the Qaboos signature on the face is even rarer and likely to yield phenomenal prices upon resale.

Sultan Qaboos Bin said Al Said and the brand have a water tight relationship that started in the 1970s. Oman wished to congratulate the British Special Forces for assisting him to fight the rebels back in the 1970s.

Most featured the Khanjar emblem, while the highest level of appreciation came in the form of the emblematic Qaboos signature.

Furthermore, the timepieces are incredibly valuable due to them being sourced from Asprey. Since they derived from the 1970s, the only chance to special order timepieces were supplied through the luxury retailer, London based Asprey.

Using tritium hour markers, they have patinated to produce a gorgeous gleam over time. The face has been altered to remove the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified and depth rating text to allow the Qaboos text to stand out.

The Sea-Dweller 1665 Red Qaboos sold at a Christie’s auction in 2023 for around £221,400.

Rolex Sea-Dweller/Submariner 2000 Double Red

The Rolex Sea-Dweller/Submariner 2000 Double Red is the product of Rolex’s phenomenal innovation.

Source - Christie’s

The helium valve is a genius innovation that allows gas to escape and therefore let the watches withstand incredible levels of compression at extreme depths. Talk about standing up to the test of time.

They worked with legendary French diving firm COMEX to enhance their Submariner reference 5513 and 5514 models.

This collaboration resulted in the end product of the Sea-Dweller 1665 in 1967. This represented the first watch to be used in saturation diving. Fitted with a patent valve, the watches can capably reach 610 metres.

Interestingly, this watch comes under the exceptionally rare “Patent Pending” variant. Due to them rushing to release 1665 references, they had not patented the helium valve and therefore engraved “Patent Pending” on the back. Only 150 of these models were made.

The pitch black face is made up of Submariner 2000 and Sea-Dweller in red text below the hands, earning the Double Red nickname too.

This MK I face features all the classic Sea-Dweller codes, including dot, baton and triangular hour markers. Furthemore, the date aperture positioned at 3 o’clock features a Cyclops eye for optimal legibility.

The Sea-Dweller/Submariner 2000 Double Red sold at a Christie’s auction in 2014 for around £141,500.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea Reference 136660 James Cameron

The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 136660 is a titanic celebration of the Genevan giant’s incredible achievement with James Cameron. He accomplished the deepest solo dive to the Mariana Trench. On the side of the Submarine? The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea!

Source - Rolex Magazine

Released in 2022, the 136660 model in steel was released to commemorate the event. With a case diameter of 44mm diameter, we know what you are thinking. What about the water resistance? These are capable of reaching 3,900 metres of underwater depth.

We thank the solid caseback, Ring Lock System and Gas Escape Valve for that. Though it aint on par with the Bell & Ross Hydromax (11,000m) it is more than three times as water resistant when compared to the Omega Ploprof (1,200m)

Along the top is a prominent black bezel that uses white engravings for optimal legibility. Speaking of visibility, the dial retains its highly legible design that made up its predecessors. However, they opt for a gradient style from a navy blue top to a black bottom.

This is a highly desirable design as it’s completely unique to anything else Rolex has produced.

The lume filled hour markers and hands are equally easy to see, while the date complication at 3 o’clock is a handy feature. Within the watches lies the 3235 calibre with a 70 hour power reserve and accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day.

This is guaranteed by the Paraflex shock absorbers and blue Parachrom hairspring.

You can no longer buy a Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 136660 James Cameron at retail as it’s been discontinued. However, you can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £11,800 as of June 2024.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is So Special About Rolex Sea-Dweller?

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is exceptionally special due to its incredible triple resistance to water.

Capable of withstanding the deepest points of the sea, the watches utilise a screw-down caseback, solid back and helium escape valve, entitling them to 1,220 metres of water resistance.

Is The Rolex Sea-Dweller A Good Investment?

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is a phenomenal investment, especially the single red version which is considered holy grail status. Introduced at Baselworld 2017, it is the red text that is highly sought after by horophiles and would-be collectors.

The ultra-rare stainless steel reference 1665 for example has the distinguishable Sea-Dweller logo with attributes like 27 jewels, a 1575 perpetual movement and 1 hour diver bezel.

Generally, the scarcer and vintage models tend to perform better due to their exclusivity and value since the supply has been cut, naturally letting demand boom.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller has been deemed one of the industry's ultimate dive watches due to the brilliant 1,220 metres water resistance.

Inspired by the relationship between COMEX and the brand, it comes in classic steel or two tone gold and steel which could potentially be exceptionally valuable due to the luxury precious metal choice.

All the watches are built to the highest standards, including either using their patented Oyster steel material, or the Rolesor models. Fitted with Superlative Chronometer certified models, the watches offer longevity and quality over time.

Since they are part of the brand, they are already known for producing high quality pieces and having solid resale over time. Therefore, the Sea-Dweller collection is likely to have solid investment potential, whether you opt for a vintage watch or a newer reference.

Is A Rolex Sea-Dweller Hard To Get?

Yes, the Rolex Sea-Dweller is notoriously hard to purchase at authorised retailers due to their incredibly high levels of demand and little supply. However, some models will be harder to source than others.

For example, the vintage 1665 reference is discontinued and can only be sourced on the pre-owned market.

However, more modern references may be more accessible, but will still require you to be on a waitlist for around 3 to 18 months depending on your choice of timepiece.

Is The Rolex Sea-Dweller Rare?

Absolutely. The Rolex Sea-Dweller is a rare line due to their high level of demand surpassing their supply.

However, the vintage or scarce Sea-Dwellers like the Double Red, James Cameron or Submariner 2000 timepieces are likely to be even harder to procure due to them being discontinued and subsequently taken off the retail market.

Do Sea Dwellers Hold Value?

In short, it’s a resounding yes. A Rolex Sea-Dweller will hold value over time.

Since they are associated with the Genevan titans, their name alone allows the timepieces to hold a high level of value, potentially meaning that your watch can hold an increase in value on the secondary market.

The Sea-Dweller is equally a very attractive line that is designed to provide excellent water resistance. Furthermore, its legacy is associated with breaking records, including accompanying James Cameron in the world's first solo dive to the Mariana Trench.

Consisting of the finest materials and powered by high quality movements that ensure reliable performance, the timepieces are highly desirable and likely to hold their value upon resale.

Is A Submariner Or A Sea-Dweller Better?

It all depends on your intentions or preferences! For example, the Submariner could be classified as a better everyday timepiece. It really is the definition of a one and done collection.

Available in a range of materials including yellow gold, two tone and steel, the faces equally range from blue to black and have different coloured bezels such as the green framed reference 126610LV.

Their 41mm case diameter is a perfect size for sporting activities (as supported by the 300 metre water resistance) the boardroom or froliccking along the beach. For the Sea-Dweller, this is more suited to dive watch lovers.

Reaching a vastly superior 1,220 metres of water resistance, they enjoy a case diameter of 43mm in either steel or two tones with yellow gold.

This is much bigger than the Submariner, but allows you to reach further depths, and could be classified as more of a statement piece.

Both collections use their Superlative Chronometer certified movements, entitling you to longevity, excellent performance, patents like Paraflex shock absorbers, and optimal performance in all conditions.

What Is The Most Sought After Submariner?

The most sought after Submariner is reference 16610. Originally released in 1989 and discontinued in 2010, the watches are crafted from steel and fitted with the excellent Oyster bracelet. With a 40mm case diameter, the watches have a black face.

Within the timepieces is the exciting 3135 calibre. Capable of yielding 300 metres of water resistance, you can expect a 48 hour power reserve and 4Hz.

Is The Rolex Sea-Dweller Heavy?

It is after all a heavy duty tool watch so when asking the question Is the Rolex Sea-Dweller heavy…it can be. Having a weight of around 212 grams which can be quite top heavy depending on your wrist, it has a 43mm case diameter and 15.5mm thickness.

Compared with the Submariner which is 41mm x 12mm and a weight of around 156 grams, the Submariner is much lighter and easier to wear on the wrist.

Will Rolex Sea-Dweller Be Discontinued?

Following the exciting release of the Sea-Dweller Deepsea in full yellow gold at Watches and Wonders 2024, the future of the Sea-Dweller is still looking as solid as a rock.

Of course, they do tend to be quite unpredictable with these matters, resulting in the “Sea-Dweller” text being removed from all Deepsea models.

Does this mean the line will eventually be culled and placed back into its timekeeping pen? We don’t think so. There’s still a lot of life in the Sea-Dweller collection yet!

What Is The Difference Between Rolex Sea-Dweller And Submariner?

The main differences between the Sea-Dweller and the Submariner comes down to the size and utility. The Sea-Dweller is much larger with a 43mm case and 15.5mm thickness. On the other hand, The Submariner is a slimmer 41mm case diameter and 12mm thickness.

In terms of utility, the Sea-Dweller is more associated with the dive watch world.

While the Submariner has its roots as the quintessential dive watch, much like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, it has since evolved with an array of materials and styles to become the ideal everyday driver.

The contrasting 300 metres water resistance of the Submariner and the 1,220 metre Sea-Dweller depth is another indication of the Sea-Dweller’s immense diving legacy,

How Old Is The Rolex Sea-Dweller?

The Sea-Dweller was released in 1967, which means that the watches are exactly 57 years apart. Could we see a 60th anniversary piece in 3 years time?

What Is The Difference Between Rolex Sea-Dweller And Deepsea?

Although the Deepsea once was a part of the legendary Sea-Dweller collection, there are a few critical differences between the two lines:

	Sea-Dweller	Deepsea
Case size	43mm	44mm
Materials	Steel, Rolesor	Steel and 18K yellow gold
Bracelet	Oyster	Oyster
Functions	Main timekeeping functions and date	Main timekeeping functions and date
Water resistance	1,220 metres	3,900 metres
Helium escape valve	Yes	Yes

Is Sea-Dweller Waterproof?

Yes, the Sea-Dweller was originally designed for divers which makes them exceptionally effective at reaching vast underwater depths. You can expect to benefit from 1,220 metres of water resistance.

Is Sea-Dweller Thicker Than Submariner?

Yes, the Sea-Dweller is around 3.5mm thicker than the Submariner, representing the split between the 15.5mm Sea-Dweller and 12mm Submariner.

What Is The Difference Between Sea-Dweller And Submariner Bracelet?

The bracelet that the Sea-Dweller and the Submariner use are identical. Known as the Oyster bracelet, the design has remained the same since the bracelet's original release back in 1948.

Fitted with an Oysterlock clasp to stop any accidental opening and the Glidelock mechanism, users can make small adjustments without needing to use any tools. Just your fingers will suffice!

What Is The Most Faked Rolex?

There are a multitude of watches that have become imitated and counterfeit due to their enduring popularity. These include lines like the Datejust, Submariner, Yacht-Master, Oyster Perpetual, GMT-Master II and the eponymous Daytona.

They are an immensely popular brand so imitators are expected!

Conclusion

Almost there, Timelords! So, there is an imperative question that simply must be answered right now; Should you still buy a Rolex Sea-Dweller in 2024?

After we’ve done all of our research and checked all the facts and stats behind this illustrious model we have surmised that yes, it is definitely worth purchasing this year.

The Sea-Dweller line is not limited edition so users have every chance of getting their hands on a timepiece, subject to you braving the waiting list…

There’s very few watches in the world that have the diving legacy and underwater lineage of the Sea-Dweller. Since its inception, it has sought to evolve and remain at the forefront of the diverse world.

This includes utilising helium escape valves, boasting an exceptional level of security underwater, while ensuring the triplock crown and solid back.

Branching out to the Deepsea (but not for much longer!) The Sea-Dweller competes with its Submariner brethren, and allows users who are looking for more than 300 metres of water resistance, to go all out with a “proper” dive watch!

If you are desperate to get your hands on a Sea-Dweller, but just don’t know where to go? You need to buy from the most reputable platform with top notch security, best possible prices and a network of the top luxury retailers.

Lucky for you we have plunged the murky depths to give you the perfect horological place for all your purchasing needs.

We won’t dwell any longer…

Looking to buy a Rolex Sea-Dweller? Want to opt out of dress watches and add divers to your new or existing collection?

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