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Introducing The Quintessential Rolex Datejust Buying Guide - Chrono Hunter

The Rolex Datejust is unforgettable in Rolex’s catalogue. Famed as the first self winding watch to showcase a date wheel, the collection was released in 1945 out of celebration for 40 years of the Rolex brand.

Since its exciting beginnings, the collection has blown up in popularity, and now resides as one of Rolex’s most sought after collections due to its enduring design of various materials, including stainless steel and precious metals, endearing dial and celebrity appeal, with the likes of Daniel Craig, Tudor’s first ambassador David Beckham and Bono wearing the collection.

With an unmatched aesthetic of luxury, their vintage models are equally desired, more so than those still in production and come under the holy grail title. We would be remiss if we didn’t mention the average wait time of around three to six months. Not quite as detrimental as the Daytona waitlist of five years, but still enough to produce a small wince!

If your eyes are peeled and ready for the next bout of information about the Rolex Datejust, set your phone to aeroplane mode and get reading on exactly what you should consider before opting to purchase this storied collection.

Luxe Watches similarly understand the value of The Rolex Datejust as noted in their Rolex Datejust Buying Guide article. They note that it is “one of the oldest Rolex models still in production”, boasting the incredible legacy of the collection, especially since there are “so many incredible styles to choose from”. The Luxe Watches article is certainly worth the read and you can follow them for more here.

Set your wrists to vintage and turn on the luxury taps. We’re going to be swimming in very deep iconic waters filled with precious metals and stainless steel!

History Of The Rolex Datejust

The Start Of The Datejust

The Rolex Datejust was released in 1945 to mark 40 years of this illustrious brand, but now holds the title as one of the oldest collections to date.

Source - Rolex

Upon its initial launch, it was born to be different. Making history overnight as the first wristwatch to be self-wound with a date feature, the watches were instantly in high demand, originally only available in 18K yellow gold (no stainless steel as of yet!). However, they were kitted out with a bubble back crafted into the eternally durable Oyster case that was unveiled in 1926.

Straight away, the watches came complete with a fluted bezel and brand new Jubilee bracelet, pertaining to the “Jubilee” celebration of Rolex’s 40th anniversary. The collection remained the same for many years until around ten years after its inception. In 1954, they introduced the Cyclops lens over the date aperture, situated at 3 o’clock.

The Cyclops eye was a major innovation as it enhanced the date aperture by 2.5 times, promoting legibility. In 1955, a variation of the collection called “Turn-O-Graph” was released in order to celebrate United States Air Force pilots returning home from combat and would subsequently receive the “Thunderbird” nickname.

In 1957, the collection was boosted by a brand new Calibre 1065 movement. The domed caseback was left in the dust as this much slimmer movement made the collection more streamlined. It was then updated again in 1965 with the fresh Calibre 1570 movement. In the 1970s, the quickset feature was incorporated into the models. This allowed the date functionality to be advanced quicker rather than having to run the hour hand persistently through a 24 hour cycle as you would in effect turn the crown on a different mode instead.

This quickset functionality was accompanied by a new Calibre 3035 movement in 1977. Now upgraded to 28,800VpH opposed to the previous 20,000VpH, the watch was much more accurate. In the 1980s, the movement was upgraded to the 3135 and the watches were then topped by a sapphire crystal as opposed to an acrylic version.

The Rolex collection is more powerful than the Hulk and Arnold Schwarzennegger combined, yet still retains its classic design and charm. Now available in a variety of materials, including stainless steel, two tone and yellow gold, the models have a slew of bezel types, including fluted, smooth and gem-set. The bracelet options are kept short and sweet with a Jubilee bracelet and a sportier Oyster version.

The Datejust II

65 years later since the line's inception, these timepieces feature a slew of new upgrades.

Ref 116334 - Source - Rolex Forums

Initially launched in 2009, the Datejust II was built with a more sportier aesthetic as opposed to its predecessor. Built with an Oyster, stainless steel bracelet and lume on the dial for maximum legibility, the watches were increased in case size from 36mm to 41mm.

Now featuring a Twinlock Winding Crown with the Oyster case to allow a stronger water resistance of 100 metres, the movement was similarly upgraded to the Calibre 3136 movement. Featuring the patented Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, these gorgeous watches are COSC certified, boasting excellent precision and longevity.

Datejust 41mm

A heading just for a sizing? That’s right, this was the replacement for The Datejust II!

Ref 126300 - Source - Christies

In 2016, the Datejust II was discontinued and promptly replaced by the Datejust 41mm. There was a rather significant difference between the Datejust II and the new Datejust 41mm. The latter was built with a Calibre 3235 movement, providing a new Superlative Chronometer Certification and around fourteen patented features.

What Does A Modern Rolex Datejust Look Like?

The modern Rolex Datejust is not limited to one material or style like Katy Perry’s music career. Oh no, this model is so much more than that. That being said, there are a few common features across the entire collection that are universally inspirational.

Ref 126231 - Source - Rolex

Cyclops Eye/Date Aperture

These watches are inherently constructed with a date display at 3 o’clock and has a 31 day disc, allowing it to automatically turn at midnight. If you don’t want to turn into a pumpkin when the hour strikes 12 you might like to take a second to look at this. Trust us, it’s a frighteningly excellent article;

8 Of The Most Spooktacular Watches For Halloween

The Cyclops lens of today’s contemporary Datejust improves the legibility of the date. And although it was originally on the collection in 1953, they are still on the models today but are now crafted into the sapphire crystal itself.

Bezel Types

Furthermore, these particular novelties are fitted with a variety of bezel types, taking in smooth, fluted, domed or set with diamonds. This is extremely innovative as it allows the purchaser the chance to buy a watch that entirely suits all manner of special occasions. If luxury is what you want, the fluted bezel is only available on yellow, white or Rolesor gold watches. If you are looking for a luxury sports watch, we recommend the smooth or the domed.

Bracelet Types

In terms of the wearability of the models, you can choose between the Jubilee, Oyster and The President bracelet. The Jubilee bracelet was specifically designed for the collection, so is the prime choice for the majority of avid horophiles. The Oyster bracelet is the sporty variation which would suit the smooth/domed bezel variants. The President bracelet was released in 1956 for the Day-Date, but is not reserved solely for that and the collection.

Materials

The watches are available in a number of different materials. For example, you can have stainless steel, gold or a Rolesor material in your specific watch. Rolesor was created in the 1930s for the Oyster Perpetual collection. Its structure typically follows the bezel, winding crown and the centre bracelet links which comprise of gold, while the outerlinks and the middle of the case are made of Oyster stainless steel.

Dial Styles

The collection comes with a very strong dial display.

Set with diamonds or mother-of-pearl, the dial can sometimes feature palm or fluted design signatures, or a simple sunray finish for the understated models. Available in a range of colours and finishes with hour markers ranging from Roman to Arabic numerals, you may even have gem-set options if you want to buy a Rolex with added glitz!

Movement Type

The collection is now powered by the Calibre 3235 movement for both the 41mm and 36mm versions.

This self-winding mechanical movement is manufactured entirely by Rolex and is featured within 36 and 41mm sizings. Totalling 14 different patents with the movement that was released in 2015, one of the main innovations is the Chronergy escapement patent.

The Calibre 3235 movement offers -2/+2 seconds precision per day and a 70 hour power reserve as well as a Superlative Chronometer Certification. Exuding first rate precision, phenomenal power reserve and fantastic reliability, the watches combat magnetism as easy as pie. For the 31mm model, it is powered by the 2236 movement which offers a weekend-proof 55 hours of power reserve and the same instance precision. The watches are Superlative Chronometer Certified with an accuracy of +2/-2 seconds per day.

The Best Rolex Datejust Watches To Buy Right Now

There are a number of models that simply get us horophiles revved up like an F1 engine. The watch can be designed in a highly unique style or have a dial that knocks us on the timekeeping canvas. Here for your eyes only are our top three best Rolex Datejust Watches to purchase right now.

1. Rolex Datejust 31mm Reference 278288RBR

If you are gifted with slender wrists more suited to clinking champagne glasses than getting your hands dirty, we believe that The Rolex Datejust 31mm 278288RBR is the ultimate choice.

Source - Rolex

Following the classic Rolex Datejust styling of a completely yellow gold construction, the material is found within Rolex’s very own foundries, showcasing the level of immense detail and quality that are found within these majestic watches.

Your eyes may then be drawn to the gem set bezel. Rolex undergoes a painstaking process of gem setting which requires the precious metals to be carved and then carefully placed next to each other like expensive sardines packed into a tin. As you may already know, diamonds are swiftly becoming normalised in male fashion so keep your eyes open for luxury watches which adorn them!

The dial revolutionises the design of the line with a brand new, olive sheen. Following a floral style motif, the dial combines three different types of finish, including sunray, matt and grained. This process takes extensive skill and craftsmanship, all of which are further enhanced by the placement of 24 diamonds in a number of sizes in the centre of each flower.

If you thought the piece couldn't get any more uber premium, we implore you to cast your eyes at the bracelet! Accompanied by a President bracelet that's made up of semi-circular links, the bracelet’s lineage stems back to the equally luxurious Day-Date as per its release in 1956.

Powered by the 2236 calibre, the movement offers -2/+2 seconds per day precision, a 55 hour power reserve and a number of security measures including a Syloxi hairspring and paraflex shock absorbers. After all, it’s essential to stand up to those everyday bumps and scrapes. Get fitted with an olive green suit shirt for symmetry, or opt to go understated with a black suit.

- You can buy a Rolex Datejust 31mm 278288RBR at retail for £36,950 (As of December 2023)

2. Rolex Datejust 36mm Reference 126331

The Rolex Datejust 41mm 126331 is given a little more heritage than you may know about…

Source - Rolex

Wimbledon and Rolex have been together since 1978 as Rolex were the Official Timekeeper back when the event was officially called “The Championships”. Nevertheless, Rolex still retains its title, and there is a strong correlation between the line and the actual event.

The Rolex Wimbledon’s nickname was earned in 2019 when the 116333 was released. However, Rolex will never actually confirm this to be “The Rolex Wimbledon”. Ever the masters of subtlety, we can pretty much confirm that the design is purposeful to the Wimbledon event.

Now, you can land a number of references that include the Wimbledon title, from the 116234 to the 126331.

The 126331 is made from Oyster stainless steel and Everose Gold in a beautiful two tone case. Combining the lustre of Rolex’s own Everose Gold proprietary alloy and the durability of their Oyster stainless steel material, Rolex have concocted a material named “Rolesor” that not only looks great, but is “Rolex” through and through.

The watches are fitted with a fluted bezel, pertaining to the luxury of the collection and its original purpose to keep the watch waterproof. Meanwhile, the dial is a fantastic addition to the ultra fashionable Rolesor case and fluted bezel. The background is slate grey and undergoes a sunray finish in order to cast light throughout the face. They go a step further by including a Physical Vapour Deposition application to achieve the dial colour, and a final coating of varnish is applied.

The Wimbledon theme comes in the form of the Roman numeral hour markers. They are given a green edging which links to the colour scheme of the event and the brand's logo. We will never know for certain, but we can certainly hazard a wild guess! The watch also opts for a one off baton marker at 9 o’clock which is unconventional, while maintaining the date aperture theme at 3 o’clock.

The models are powered by the Calibre 3235, a Superlative Chronometer movement. Offering -2/+2 seconds precision per day and a 70 hour power reserve while they are decked out with a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.

Fitted with a Jubilee bracelet, this the classic bracelet for any new or burgeoning collection that follows a 5 piece link construction. We think you’d look dope pairing this alongside a navy suit or a camel overcoat for the colder months.

- You can buy a Rolex Datejust 126331 at retail for £12,450 at the time of writing.

3. Rolex Datejust 36mm Reference 126234

If you are looking for a piece that combines durability and ultimate luxury in a way that’s utterly seamless, it’s time to take a look at the 36mm Rolex Datejust 126234.

Source - Rolex

The models are made from both white gold and Oyster stainless steel, achieving a silvery sheen while blending the best of both worlds. Caressing the tops of the models is a fluted bezel. We’ve seen a lot of green in this list so let's get to a bluer shade.

The bright ocean style dialled hue undergoes a fluted motif that offers a graphic representation of a famous part of the Datejust… the bezel which is known for its ridged edge that is the exact same style option that is reflected on the dial. Featuring a sunray finish, the small blocks seemingly come to life before your very eyes. Sit down, Houdini!

The watches are locked in with a beautiful Jubilee bracelet that celebrates the collection with a strong dose of luxury and effortless charm. The models are powered by the Calibre 3235, offering a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day, as well as pristine support via the Paraflex shock absorbers and Parachrom hairspring. Superlative Chronometer Certified? As standard.

- You can buy a Rolex Datejust 36mm Reference 126234 at retail for £7,500 at the time of writing.

Best Rolex Datejust Watches For Investment

It’s important to clarify what are the best Rolex Datejust models to invest in. After all, while some of you adore this luxury brand for the technical skill of the models and the phenomenal design, some of you investment minded folks are more interested in yielding a good resale value. We don’t blame you!

Firstly, just how well regarded is the Genevan giant?

Rolex’s Reputation

Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf in 1905, but it adopted the “Rolex” title in 1908. It was actually originally known as “Wilsdorf and Davis”! They have over 100 years of watchmaking expertise and have continued to innovate and develop their brand to extraordinary levels.

Deepsea James Cameron - Source - Silodrome

Throughout the years, this major luxury brand became the first watchmaker to achieve chronometer status in 1910, and kickstarted the waterproof watch revolution in 1926 with the release of the Oyster case. Need we mention the fabulous Rolex Deepsea James Cameron that capably plunged 11,000 metres when strapped onto the side of the Trieste submarine?

Making around 1 million watches annually, they have an extensive list of collections which run from the Submariner, to the Daytona, Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller. Having a turnover of around £9.3 billion in 2022 makes them the number one luxury watch brand in the world.

Worn by everyone from U.S Presidents Nixon and Trump to golf legends like Tiger Woods, wealthy businessmen like Warren Buffett, musicians like Jay-Z and John Mayer, nevermind celebrities like Justin Theroux and Jennifer Anniston… the list is as endless as the time it takes to get your hands on one!

This is the perfect time to assume that they are highly respected and desired enough to perform exceptionally well upon resale and offer you Timelords potentially excellent investments.

Best Investment Pieces

We implore you to cast your eyes towards the Rolex Datejust 36mm Reference 126284RBR. Crafted out of Oyster stainless steel and white gold, the purchaser gets both a potent whiff of luxury, and a strong sense of durability.

If you can get over the possibility of owning both a sturdy yet beautifully styled watch, cast your eyes to the mother-of-pearl dial face. Given a white sheen, the hour markers are made out of 10 diamonds, leaving only the date aperture and the brand logo at 12 o’clock as gaps.

126284RBR - Source - Rolex

The bezel similarly follows suit as it’s adorned entirely with a ring of diamonds. Fitted with a trademark Jubilee bracelet, the models are powered by the Calibre 3235 movement which is Superlative Chronometer certified and offers 70 hours of power reserve. That’s ideal if you are heading to that all important European business trip to clinch that deal.

You can purchase it at retail for £15,750 but it sells on the secondary market for upwards of £17,000 as of December 2023.

However, not all of the collections editions will boom in value. Take for example The Rolex Datejust Reference 126333. Coming in at 41mm, the models are crafted out of both Oyster stainless steel and yellow gold. Boasting an iconic fluted bezel that's been with the collection since its inception in 1945, take note of the sunray finished black dial. Upon it rests diamond hour markers on all but 3 and 12 o’clock. Given a gold case, the contrast between the black and gold is fantastic and boasts the luxury of the models.

126333 - Source - Rolex

Fitted with a Jubilee bracelet, the models are powered by the 3235 movement, a Superlative Chronometer that offers 70 hours of power and an average precision of around -2/+2 seconds per day. While nearly every Rolex has value, some will have more than others due to a number of different crucial factors such as;

Condition of the watch
Current market conditions
Provenance
Supply and demand
Rarity or exclusivity
Purchasing at either the top or bottom of the market

You can buy it at retail for £12,100 at the time of writing. However, as of December 2023, it sells on the secondary market for upwards of £11,300. We recommend holding onto these models and let time raise the value naturally.

That being said, if we adhere to the laws of supply and demand, we can determine that the vintage, older second-hand and rare models are the ones to look out for in terms of yielding a good investment value. This is due to the fact that the scarcer the models, the more likely the models are to increase in value due to their higher demand.

A piece that definitely falls under this criteria is the Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster Reference 86349SAFUBL. Retailed by none other than the highly luxurious Asprey brand, the piece is released as the Haute Joaillerie edition of the Datejust in 2015, and aptly named The Datejust Pearlmaster 39mm.

86349SAFUBL - Source - Christie’s

This is the first piece to feature a calibre 3235 movement and a 39mm case. Boasting a sapphire bezel fitted with 48 baguette cut diamonds, the colours vary from blue to fuschia pink. The dial is also given a pavé diamond-set dial with Roman numerals. This second-hand variation sold at a Christie’s auction for around £100,300 in 2023.

There are plenty of other worthy mentions which grace the second-hand market that either hold or surpass value. Take for example the vintage Datejust Reference 1601 that was made around 1972. As vintage as Vivienne Westwood walking on to the set of the Antiques Roadshow! The watch is crafted out of pink gold and boasts a large date aperture at 3 o’clock. The dial is made out of lapis lazuli, resulting in an extremely rare and attractive dial face.

1601 - Source - Christie’s

This is complemented by the minimalist, no hour markers style of the models, as well as the gold hands. There is the national Oman emblem, the khanjar dagger that’s situated at 6 o’clock that is without doubt of interest. The models are fitted with a Jubilee bracelet and were originally made for the Sultanate of Oman. Astonishing! This vintage edition sold at a Christie’s auction for around £90,000 in 2014.

Go on then. We’ll have one more! In case you didn’t know, rainbow editions are incredibly desired at the moment.

69119 - Source - Christie’s

This logic carries over to the vintage Datejust Reference 69119. Crafted out of white gold, this vintage 1986 watch is fitted with a diamond set dial and rainbow diamond hour markers which match the rainbow hour markers that run directly around the bezel. It sold at a Christie’s auction for around £97,000 in 2022.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who Wears Rolex Datejust?

There is a vast clientele of celebrities and social icons who love to wear a Datejust.

From 8 time Wimbledon champion Roger Federer to Winston Chuchill who was given the 100,000th officially certified chronometer by Hans Wilsdorf during WWII, US Presidents like Ronald Reagan and Joe Biden through to celebs activists like Martin Luther King and the first female scientist for National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Sylvia Earle have been proud wearers.

Is Buying A Rolex Datejust A Good Investment?

Yes. It's estimated that since the 1990s, the average prices for a Datejust has increased by around 200%. Boasting an iconic design with its Jubilee bracelet and fluted bezel, the models have a great heritage as the first self winding watch with a date aperture. Best look towards the vintage or rarer models to try and yield the best resale values. After all, supply and demand is critical to obtaining excellent figures upon resale!

Is It Hard To Get A Rolex Datejust?

The models are quite hard to get a hold of. That being said, you could always opt to try and get your hands on a Datejust on the secondary or pre-owned market.

You will have to pay a premium if you decide to buy a Rolex Datejust on the secondary market. After all, not only does the collection hold its value really well and provide an excellent investment opportunity, you are paying to skip the three to six months wait list.

Does Rolex Datejust Hold Value?

Rolex Datejust holds their value exceptionally well in most cases.

Below are a few examples of some models that are currently on retail, alongside their value on the secondary market:

Reference	Materials	Retail Price	Secondary Market Price (As of December 2023)
Reference 126281RBR	Oyster stainless steel and Everose Gold	£16,650	£16,510
Reference 278240	Oyster stainless steel	£6,100	£6,174
Reference 126203	White Gold and Oyster stainless steel	£10,600	Upwards of £11,300
Reference 126334	Oyster stainless steel and White Gold	£8,650	£10,100

Does A Rolex Datejust Lose Value?

Rolex Datejust watches do not commonly lose value, especially if you hold onto them for a number of years. Boasting a highly iconic design, a slew of historically significant features like a date aperture over a self-winding movement and a sea of precious metals, it’s actually understood that they have boomed in value of around 200% since the 1990s!

How Do I Skip A Rolex Waiting List?

Unfortunately, it is not possible to skip a Rolex waiting list. Well, unless you are Ed Sheeran, Pharrell Williams or the Jigger Man himself Jay-Z.

You need to have enough clout, celebrity status or a purchase history as long as your wrist (and beyond) in order to be considered for such an elusive brand. Not even the charisma of James Bond could pull you through!

Don’t despair just yet my friends. It may be impossible to skip the waitlist, but if you are willing to venture into the increasingly popular second-hand or pre-owned market, you may strike horological gold, making you one step closer to purchasing your desired watch.

Second-hand watches can offer you your desired watch straight away. No hassle or waiting there! Furthermore, discontinued, vintage models that are no longer available at retail are in some cases readily available on second-hand markets. While you will be paying a premium as opposed to the retail market, you can land your watch straight away without insurmountable waiting lists or having the need of a chunky purchase history, the size of the Grand Canyon.

How Long Is The Rolex Datejust Waitlist?

It’s expected that you should be waiting around 6 to 36 months before you can get your hands on a Rolex Datejust.

Conclusion

The clock has finally ticked its final tock for today.

If you’ve forgotten the purpose of this very important article, we have thoroughly discussed and cohesively run through the quintessential Rolex Datejust Buying Guide. If you are like us, we are sure you’ve found that The Rolex Datejust is most certainly worth your perusal when it comes to purchasing a watch!

As one of the biggest watch brands of all time, they rub shoulders with Holy Trinity members, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin and have a vast array of fantastic collections under their belt including the Daytona, GMT-Master and of course the beautiful Datejust.

The Datejust has such brilliant resale figures that the models can even be considered as possible investment opportunities. If we compare them to brands like Omega and Longines who lose value of around 20-40% within the first year of being on the marketplace. Sure, it may not be an accessible brand, but you are paying for unparalleled craftsmanship and that all encompassing Superlative Chronometer Status.

The Datejust is worn by incredible social elites like Actor Aaron Paul to Michael Jordan and Martin Luther King! With Rolex, you don’t have to worry about dealing with variables or factors that may or may not impact the watch's value. Rolex and their models are a few of the brands that consistently either match or increase in value across the board over time.

Luckily, Chrono Hunter have done the legwork to collate all of this information, and have the capability to bring you a range of highly reputable retailers providing a multitude of offers to land that Datejust. All you have to do is kick back, relax, and wait for the offers to come in.

Due to our vast expertise in Rolex models, Chrono Hunter is confident that we can offer the best advice and unmatched expertise to help you obtain the watch you desire. If you are a keen buyer or a hopeful seller, take a moment to check out our website or have a look at our outstanding Trustpilot reviews.

Take it easy and let us pair you with the watch of your Datejust dreams!

Want to buy a Rolex at the most competitive price without having to pound the streets or dealing with insecure public open marketplaces? Never get a raw deal again with Chrono Hunter. We are the ultimate place to buy a watch or sell a watch.

Contact us at any time to establish the value of your watch or move forwards in purchasing a second-hand Rolex Datejust rapidly. Unlike traditional bricks and mortar stores where you will only obtain one offer, Chrono Hunter gives you multiple offers from our handpicked network of verified luxury retailers.

Available on either Apple or Android devices, why not utilise our dedicated app and see the offers appear in less than 24 hours. Enlisting a highly qualified team with unrivalled brand expertise, enjoy the best possible prices when buying and top prices paid when selling. With a speedy turnaround and first class service, we can sell your Rolex quickly and for the best possible price…in the safest and most secure environment.

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