The Ultimate Watch Collection For Under £60,000 - Tudor Black Bay, Rolex Daytona
Hello Timelords. We are back here again offering you some much needed advice on how to build your watch collection, This time we have 60k to play with. Some folks collect cars, houses and even dogs. We at Chrono Hunter believe that collecting watches is the best hobby of all as it epitomises your tastes in the finer things and your style as the luxurious folks you all undoubtedly are.
Without keeping you for too long, let's get straight into it. Here is how to build the ultimate collection for under £60,000 with Chrono Hunter.
Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank collection was born from an incredible tale.
Influenced by his stint on the western front, Louis Cartier, founder of Cartier, created the Cartier Tank on the basis of the Renault FT-17 tanks he regularly saw during WW1. The design would be originally passed to the American Expeditionary Force in 1917 as a prototype. By 1919, the Cartier Tank was introduced to the public, and with it, all sorts of acclaim from the social elites followed it.
Famous wearers of the Cartier Tank: Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Muhammed Ali, and Andy Warhol.
Cartier Tank Francaise - Source - Cartier
The watch is ultimately timeless and will fit nicely into any collectors drawer as it can stretch across the generations and will no doubt hold its value. The Cartier Tank Francaise in particular highlights the brand history with a good old dose of modernity. While still adhering to the design of a tank with the model's vertical edges representing the treads, the crown is integrated into the case, giving it a sleeker build.
And if you buy a Cartier , you are guaranteed a real wow factor for your wardrobe. Whether everyday or impressing your date, do so with the knowledge you are wearing a beautifully crafted work of art. If she doesn't fall in love with you, at least she’ll love your timepiece! Let’s not forget, the case and the bracelet are brushed satin finished which is a change from the original polished finish the Tank Francaise prided itself upon. The sunray dial is very aesthetically pleasing, especially since the numerals are applied now instead of printed, giving the markings more projection on top of the dial.
The Cartier Tank Francaise is a fantastic addition as it is minimalistic yet has a strong Quartz calibre, pumping at 28,800VpH to support the hours, minutes and date function. Offering 37 hours power reserve, the watch is certainly going to be around for a while.
You can buy a Cartier Tank Francaise for £4,200 at retail at the time of writing.
Tudor Pelagos 39
The Tudor Pelagos 39 represents a new dawn for those looking to buy a Tudor for their watch collection. In fact, it’s doing the rounds in watch circles which may just influence the course of the diving world. Coming off the back of the Pelagos FXD and Pelagos LHD, the FXD was named the ‘Best Divers Watch at GPHG. Mind you we think The Pelagos 39 has some very large horological boots to fill. I’ll leave out the waiting time, it filled them superbly.
Tudor Pelagos 39 - Source - Tudor
What We Like
It could be argued that the Tudor Pelagos 39, represents a new breed of dive watch so it might be wise to get in on the act now. This is mainly due to its size and functions. It must be noted that it's still a phenomenal watch to dive with. For example, the watch is capable of running up to 70 hours and can fall to a solid depth of 300m. On top of this, the incredible COSC certified MT5400 movement is fitted with an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and traversal bridge. In a modern world filled with computers and phones, there's never been a more crucial time to add The Tudor Pelagos 39!
Measuring 39mm, it takes a completely different path to its Tudor predecessors and other dive watches. Crafted out of grade 2 titanium, this piece is built to last but it is not built to be excessively bulky like the Rolex Deepsea. Instead, it focuses on creating a design which the modern consumer can wear in all situations. Housing a sunray effect on the bezel and the dial, along with the flange being sandblasted, the dial is seamless and projects the chunky white indices and hands.
It also helps that they are dosed with a daubing of Super-LumiNova to really hammer home the visibility aspect.
Who Is It For?
The Tudor Pelagos is a crucial addition for any enthusiast or horophile if you are looking to buy a Tudor that can be used with water sports and as a potential everyday driver. Heck, if it’s good enough for David Beckham, you know you are on to a good thing watch peeps.
You can buy a Tudor Pelagos 39 at retail for £3,850 at the time of writing.
Tudor Black Bay
The Tudor Black Bay was released as a celebration of 60 years of Tudor’s diving watches.
Tudor Black Bay - Source - Tudor
Tudor Black Bay Build
The Tudor Black Bay still retains its predecessors good looks with the domed dial and crystal as seen in the first diving watches. Furthermore, it takes the angular hands which are affectionately known as ‘Snowflake’ hands from the very same models that were placed into the French Navy’s hands in the 1970s.
This Black Bay is yet another smart addition from this impressive horological stable. It has a solid black domed dial which allows the luminescent hands and hour markers to beam through, providing optimum visibility. The dial is framed by a unidirectional rotating bezel which is key for divers to measure oxygen timings and other nautical calculations.
For those who don't know, the Tudor Black Bay was originally a play off its father brand, Rolex’s Submariner. Utilising the fairly minimalist design of the Submariner, The Black Bay has rose gold tone indexes which rest below a sapphire crystal glass.
At 41mm, the case is polished steel and has a matt black, aluminium unidirectional bezel. Aligned with a rivet steel bracelet with a folding buckle and safety clasp, the colour scheme isn't bright or ostentatious but should fit collectors requirements. Like James Bond stepping out of his modified Aston Martin DB5, the whole thing screams elegance and refinement. It doesn't need gimmicky functions to sell itself to those looking to buy a Tudor.
What Powers This Watch?
Powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5602, it is COSC certified meaning it is thoroughly reviewed and acclaimed through stringent testing. This self winding movement couples with a silicon balance spring to resist magnetic fields. This watch is highly precise, boasting a 70 hour power reserve and a strong water resistance of 200m.
You can wear this with a formal overcoat or dress this down with a pair of jeans and your faithful black jumper to refine your casual style.
Another Tudor is not a bad thing. They are very affordable, extremely durable due to their very resilient stainless steel case and let's be honest, they look fantastic. You can buy a Tudor Black Bay at retail for £3,370 at the time of writing.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is universally adored by watch enthusiasts and is the perfect addition for those serious enthusiasts or would be collectors.
History
Originating in a period of doubt, the Rolex Daytona was conceived during the era of the self winding watch. This inevitably negatively impacted sales as they were a manual wind watch and not desired at that moment in time. While it may not look it, that was probably the best time to buy a Rolex Daytona as they were so cheap.
Their progression onto building upon Zenith's highly successful ‘El Primero’ movement in the early 1990s represented The Rolex Daytona’s slow return to the fold. By 2000, the Rolex Daytona 116520 was the first of Rolex’s in house automatic movements and this eventually spiralled to the creation of the Rolex Daytona 116500LN. This model was the first ever automatic sports watch featuring a ceramic bezel.
Rolex Daytona - Source - Rolex
The Rolex Daytona 116500LN is the penultimate point for Rolex as it represented triumph after failure. Its relationship with Formula 1 and their eventual role as the Global Partner and Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 in 2013 confirmed the status of The 116500LN as the racers choice of watch. The Daytona’s comeback was unprecedented and their role as the racers choice of watch catapulted it to the top of many enthusiasts wishlists.
Rolex Daytona 116500LN
Specifically, the model houses the well known COSC certified 4130 in house calibre in a 40mm Oyster steel case. Furthermore, it uses a Triplock screw down crown to ensure no water or dust enters the model. The movement houses a Parachrom hairspring which makes this timepiece more resistant to shock and temperature fluctuations.
With the ability to reach 100m, the Rolex Daytona 116500LN also has a ceramic bezel which is impervious to scratches or markings. Combine this with the black dial with chronograph counters, the gold applique hour markers and hands are coated with Chromalight which makes them highly legible. Simply put, the Rolex Daytona 116500LN should be one of your top picks when looking to start off. Its heritage, its status as the top racing watch and the celeb affiliation allows the Rolex Daytona to be revered by all hardcore timekeepers.
You can buy a Rolex Daytona 116500LN at retail for £12,500 at the time of writing.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is arguably Omega’s most iconic and triumphant piece.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Source - Omega
It has been aboard all six moon landings, indicating that this is not a watch that can be easily dismissed. The model is built on a brushed five link per row bracelet, showing the level of detail that is in the most intricate details when you buy an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. At 42mm, the Moonwatch is in stainless steel and features hesalite glass on the front of the piece. While the back isn't transparent, it shows an embossed seahorse medallion.
Furthermore, the Moonwatch is inspired by the 4th generation Speedmaster style as seen on the moon with asymmetrical case, black step dial and a dot over 90 on the anodised aluminium bezel.
Speedmaster Snoopy
The Speedmaster Snoopy was released as a limited edition version timepiece after the Apollo 13 rocket had failed and they had to use the Moonwatch to precise exactly the right time to reentry into earth's atmosphere. This success resulted in the watch being praised with the ‘Snoopy Award’ which is an award to NASA employees and contractors for outstanding achievements related to human flight safety. The Moonwatch uses stainless steel as it offers beauty and strength when polished. Specifically, Omega uses 316L stainless steel which is known for being highly anti-corrosive and easily brushed up after a few scratches. It's the perfect material for venturing into the unknown or for walking into that big business meeting.
The Calibre 3861
Powered by the Calibre Omega 3861, this manual wind chronograph movement with a Co-Axial escapement enhances its precision. COSC certified and METAS certified, the calibre is resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 Gauss. The free-sprung balance as well as the silicon spring balance enhances the watches stability and resistance to magnetism. It has a solid power reserve of 50 hours and the calibre powers the small seconds sub-dial, 30 minute recorder and 12 hour recorder as well as the main chronograph function.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is another collectors dream. It revitalises a slice of history which is taken for granted in the modern era. It will certainly hold its value as it is lauded in pop culture due to its association with moon landings and its subsequent success of saving lives and achieving its end goal of being on the moon. It's certainly worth sticking this in your collection!
You can buy an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch at retail for £6,400 at the time of writing.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding
Any would-be collector would dream of having an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak as part of their watch collection. Any watch from this legendary collection is desired. Created by designer Gerald Genta, he made one of the most ambitious series ever. Integrating the bracelet with the model, the design was daring and revolutionary, especially for its era of 1972. Its octagonal design was a shock to the world, especially with its eight bolts so boldly present on the bezel.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding - Source - Audemars Piguet
Fast forward to the present and the Royal Oak collection has gone from strength to strength with many sourcing an AP as their first entry into building a watch collection. The blue dial of this 41mm selfwinding Royal Oak is created with intricacy in mind. The indexes are wider, while there is a minute train which is printed on the external area. In addition, you can find a date window pushed almost under the bezel at 3 o'clock.
Interior
The Selfwinding Royal Oak houses the Calibre 4302. This calibre pumps out 28,800 VpH and has increased the power reserve from 60 hours to 70 hours in comparison to its predecessor, the 15400ST. The movement is also wider at 32mm, meaning the movement balances better.
The exhibition caseback gives a direct view at the beautiful innards of the watch, such as the 22k skeletonised gold rotor and the polished bridges which are adorned with Geneva stripes. This iconic sports watch is therefore ideal for a dress watch due to its unparalleled beauty and timeless elegance.
Let’s face it time peeps, we wouldn’t start any watch collection off without an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. And we haven’t begun on its legendary Grande Tapisserie dial. This pattern is extremely intricate, as the convex squares create an almost hypnotic effect above the grain pattern. While we wouldn't recommend staring with your eye to the glass when you buy an Audemars Piguet Selfwinding, it is definitely one to get a glimpse at.
Exterior
The case is made out of stainless steel with a glare proof sapphire crystal and caseback. The integrated bracelet is similarly made out of stainless steel and hooks up beautifully with the octagonal bezel. While the crown is screwed down, the water resistance is capped at 50m meaning it's best if you don't divebomb into the sea.
The case and bracelet is satin and polished finished, making the watch gleam, especially since the bracelet is integrated, it adds a sense of unity to the entire model. You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding at retail for £23,900 at the time of writing.
Conclusion
We’ve reached the end, Timelords. Hopefully, this timekeeping ensemble has given you an insight into the opportunities that await you when you want to build a watch collection. Totalling £54,220, you have £5,780 left to spend on whatever you want! Who knows, you may be tempted to buy an Omega De Ville Prestige Co-Axial Master Chronometer with an RRP of £4,700 at the time of writing or The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34mm with an RRP of £4,850 at the time of writing.
From Cartier Tank to the timeless Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding, this list only houses the very best watches you can buy for under £60,000. While we made this list to suit every option, we do of course have some notable absences to create the ultimate watch collection. From the Rolex GMT Master II and Rolex DateJust to a vintage TAG Heuer Autavia and Cartier Santos, these are some of our top picks.
While we didn't choose these models, you have every right to as they are ideal for any watch collection with everyone playing a key purpose. While the Cartier Santos is the watch historian's dream due to its history as the first pilot's watch, watches like the Rolex DateJust may be for you if you love the refinement and class that oozes from it. Similarly, you may want to design innovation of the Cerachrom bezel as found in the GMT Master II or go old school with a vintage TAG Autavia. Either way, we all have our own entry points and requirements about how to build a watch collection.
Some folks like a good story like the Moonwatch’s break towards the moon. Others like to be as complicated as possible and would choose grail watches like the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime. It's your life, Timelords, Carve your own horological paths!
Feeling the desire to start collecting right away. Want to buy an Audemars Piguet or buy a Rolex? Luckily, ChronoHunter specialises in luxury watches and with more than 800 five star reviews on Trustpilot, we are your best friend when looking to buy a watch. Feel free to liaise with our experienced team here and expect peerless service with some of the greatest offers you’ve ever seen!
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