THE DEFINITIVE LIST OF ALL ROLEX NOVELTIES UNVEILED AT WATCHES AND WONDERS 2024
Rolex have come roaring out of the horological gates at this year's Watches and Wonders 2024 with a host of new releases, geared towards the fashionistas. So what’s on the table?
For starters, there is brand spanking new 1908, a sweet Daytona and one for the pilots with a moody GMT-Master II.
However, the gurus at Chrono Hunter HQ are not surprised. After all, at Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex stole the show by releasing:
- The gorgeous Rolex 1908 dress watch line and subsequent discontinuation of the Cellini.
- A new take on the Rolex Day-Date with a vibrant, jigsaw inspired dial as flexed on the wrist of Tom Brady and John Mayer.
- Three new variants of the Sky-Dweller with unseen Cyan dials and hot white gold cases
- An exciting Explorer which increased case size from 36mm to 40mm while retaining its highly legible black dial.
Therefore, when we approach a brand like Rolex with our timekeeping caps on, we require more than the top luxury brand to make us leap in the air with unbridled joy.
WIthout any further deliberation on the past, allow us to transport you to the bustling heart of Palexpo in Geneva where Watches and Wonders 2024 is taking place. Who cares if they had a price increase.
Time to explore the ultimate list of the best Rolex watches released this year.
Read on!
Rolex 1908 Platinum
Case diameter |
39mm |
Material |
Platinum |
Power reserve |
66 hours |
Thickness |
9.50mm |
Diamonds |
No |
Colour |
Blue |
The Rolex 1908 is only a baby when it comes to the monstrous history of the Genevan brand. In fact, its title is an ode to the date when Rolex received their official name!
Released only twelve months previously at Watches and Wonders 2023, the line hasn’t really received much controversy.
It didn't revolutionise the dress watch world with its monochrome black and white dials, but it did provide a viable alternative to the discontinued Cellini line.
As we are in the thick of Watches and Wonders 2024, Rolex decided now is the time to progress the 1908 line out of your run-of-the-mill formal design.
Instead, the good peeps over at the coronet have moved it into the realms of almost unattainable Haute Horologie, including a new case material and dial overhaul.
The dimensions of the watches remain the same. 39mm cases at 9.50mm case thickness is the setup which is perfect for those who wish to slide their timepiece with James Bond slickness from under their shirt cuffs.
There’s nothing remotely vintage about this modern dazzler!
The bezel retains its fluted bezel style which has made other lines like the Datejust so enticing to enthusiasts and is closely associated with luxury. However, unlike The Platters this is no great pretender.
The case is crafted out of platinum which, knowing Rolex, is the highest 950 grade possible to achieve that beautiful lustre and really get tongues wagging. Onto the dials which are no longer the understated whites and blacks of yesteryear.
In this instance, the ice-blue face keeps in tandem with the platinum. Furthermore, there are no more matte finishes, revealing a simply gorgeous guilloché finish which revolves in a off-centre, circular pattern.
Special occasions like the Golden Globes? Purchase one of these and you may go all the way to the top of the horological mountain…for this year anyway.
The baton and Arabic hour markers clearly stand out alongside the functional small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. Beating within the heart of this precious metal machine is the Calibre 7140.
Offering an excellent 66 hour power reserve accompanied by a 4Hz frequency, the watches utilise all the latest tech from Rolex, including Paraflex shock absorbers to attain the highly-desired Superlative Chronometer certification.
Quite possibly the Gillette of timepieces. After all, when we say the best a man can get, you know we are onto something.
Fitted onto a leather strap, we recommend you save this for when you need to look tip-top for both the office, summer wedding or swanky dinner. Suit you sir!
- You can buy a Rolex 1908 Platinum at retail for £26,000 as of April 2024.
Rolex Deepsea 136668LB
Case diameter |
44mm |
Material |
Yellow gold |
Power reserve |
70 hours |
Thickness |
17.7mm |
Diamonds |
No |
Colour |
Blue |
The Rolex Deepsea is a memorable line in Rolex history.
Originally released in 2008, the line has bare witness to some of man’s greatest achievements. No…it’s not your time Speedmaster.
It usually found itself bolted to the side of a submarine, for example in 1960 when it joined Jacques Piccard and U.S. Navy Lieutenant Don Walsh at the bottom of the Mariana Trench.
Oh yes, it performed timekeeping miracles in 2012 when James Cameron took it down to the same trench to accomplish the world's deepest solo dive.
In recent times, its legacy has been a little more subdued than its past. Not to worry, Rolex have treated us to a horological feast in the form of a very luxurious (and inevitably expensive) take on the Deepsea. Hang on a tick and we shall fill you in on this new hot drop.
The case size is still on the Panerai Luminor size at 44mm with an imposing thickness of 17.7mm thick. What did you expect? This is a piece that can plunge 3,900 metres. This is more amazing considering the timepiece is made entirely out of yellow gold.
Rolex’s intentions with using the precious metal may mean they wish to see this piece more in the boardroom, than on the boardwalk in your scuba attire. Either way, they have us sold on this fabulous precious metal.
Fitted with a helium escape valve and screw in crown, the watches still have everything that qualifies them as a dive timepiece. The bezel is given a ridged edge for max grip and is rounded off with a bright blue Cerachrom insert and gold diving scale, obtained via PVD.
Fitted with an equally blue face, this is more Submariner Smurf than cool blue sea. This is a nickname which may have to be passed over to this Deepsea.
The dot and baton hour markers and hands are coated in Chromalight which is Rolex’s patented version of lume and offers excellent visibility.
Beneath the mighty lugs of the Deepsea is the Calibre 3235. Offering as standard -2/+2 seconds per day and 70 hour power reserve, the watches are Superlative Chronometer certified which links to the quality of the timepieces.
Fitted onto a yellow gold bracelet, we can see you wearing this with a short sleeved blue polo, or dressing it up with a cream white suit shirt.
- You can buy a Rolex Deepsea 136668LB at retail for £45,700 as of April 2024.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR
Case diameter |
40mm |
Material |
Steel |
Power reserve |
70 hours |
Thickness |
11.9mm |
Diamonds |
No |
Colour |
Black |
The GMT-Master II has quickly become the ultimate line for both travellers and pilots alike.
Originally released in 1954, the line was released when airline giant PAN AM requested the brand make something for their pilots. Low and behold this was the epic result.
This was the booming era of transcontinental flight which promptly required pilots to be able to read different time zones in one sitting.
The GMT-Master II has since gone from strength to strength. A wrist necessity with a highly sought after line for every kind of horophile extending from the Root Beer to Pepsi and Batman models, you’ll be flying high with one of these super stylish numbers.
For this latest version at Watches and Wonders 2024, Rolex have moved away from the glitz and glamour of Oscar award winning previous precious metal versions, and opted for something more refined and understated.
The 40mm case diameter of Rolex’s patented Oyster steel ensures the watch is resistant to scratches and can combat most knocks and abrasions with ease.
Whether tackling Everest or those last minute hedge fund deals, this 904L steel is very attractive, as opposed to the poorer alloys which don’t produce a tasty lustre.
With a thickness of 11.9mm, the triplock crown and solid caseback ensure these watches are capable of 100 metres of water resistance (10ATM). The piloting element comes in the form of a 24 hour scale bezel.
Given a black and grey Cerachrom insert to differentiate between AM and PM, the user simply has to use the extra green GMT hand on the dial to read up to three different time zones.
Perfect for wearing on your private jet when crossing Eastern and Western borders, right?
The face is equally understated. Pitch black and fitted with dot and baton hour markers, they use Chromalight to ensure visibility, alongside a date aperture at 3 o’clock for an extra function. This uses a Cyclops eye for a boost in magnification.
If you cut through the steel and the moody face, you’ll reveal the Calibre 3285. This is very hardy with its 70 hour power reserve and average accuracy of around -2/+2 seconds per day.
Plus, there is Superlative Chronometer certification tying it all up in a nice pretty bow.
Attached onto a steel bracelet, the watches are a party piece bar none. You wouldn’t be remiss wearing this in a navy suit or keeping with the colours in an elegant black tux.
- You can buy a Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR at retail for £9,350 as of April 2024.
Day-Date
Case diameter |
36mm - 40mm |
Material |
Yellow/Everose/White |
Power reserve |
70 hours |
Thickness |
128395TBR - 228235 228239 128238 |
Diamonds |
No |
Colour |
Blue |
The Day-Date has predominantly been the brand’s go-to model whenever the word “dress” is stated in front of them.
Dating from 1956 it broke new earth shattering ground in the form of being the first timepiece to show the date and day displayed in full.
For Watches and Wonders 2024, there are a range of hot new models, ranging from 36mm to 40mm case diameters, a slew of styles and materials like yellow gold, Everose gold and white gold. Yep, it is yet to lose its royal-like luxury.
The options of the two case sizes means you can decide between what aesthetic you wish to go for. If you are looking to buy a Rolex for the added bling, perhaps the 40mm case in yellow or Everose gold edition is the best choice.
If you wish to remain understated, the 36mm white gold case edition may be your best bet.
The cases are thoroughly polished on each one, alongside chamfered edges and slightly curved lugs which pertain to the dressy feel of the watches. But there’s always a catch and this is seen in the form of not just the bezel types but the dials.
The most classic option would be the yellow gold edition with a fluted bezel. However, users now have the chance to enjoy a diamond bezel which adds a whole different level of glamour and showmanship.
If you opt for the jewelled bezel, the hour markers are then equally turned into diamonds which will either look stunning to you or be a tad OTT. Oh, we don’t envy you.
The dials differ too. For example, the 40mm case Everose gold 228235 has a sublime slate ombré finish which has never been seen on a 40mm Rolex previously.
Essentially, the dial graduates from a grey centre to a black periphery, and finally finishes with a sunray aesthetic.
If that’s not fancy enough for you, there is the option of dropping 4mm for a 36mm case Everose gold 128395TBR. This has a fabulous sunray finish, teal dial with a diamond bezel and hour markers.
Powered by the 3255 calibre. This is Superlative Chronometer certified and can guarantee a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day accuracy and 70 hour power reserve. Well we wouldn’t expect anything else would we?
Decked out on a Jubilee bracelet, the Day-Date for us offers more style than the classic Oyster strap and heritage as the strap was released alongside the line in 1956.
You can buy a Rolex Day-Date at retail as of April 2024 for:
- Ref. 128395TBR- £66,100 (Everose gold/President strap)
- Ref. 228235 - £36,400 (Everose gold/President strap)
- Ref. 228239 - £36,400 (White gold/President strap)
- Ref. 128238 - £33,300 (Yellow gold/President)
Rolex Daytona
Case diameter |
39mm |
Material |
Platinum |
Power reserve |
66 hours |
Thickness |
9.50mm |
Diamonds |
No |
Colour |
Blue |
The Rolex Daytona chronograph is the brand's sole racing timepiece. Sorry, TAG Heuer. We can’t all have the Monaco, Formula 1 and Carrera lines behind us.
Released in 1963, the line became popularised due to it being worn by Paul Newman and now has a range of highly collectable models which would make great investment pieces such as Eric Clapton’s Albino and John Mayer’s green iteration, reference 116508.
With it being so in-demand, Rolex have responded to the public's request by releasing not one, but 7 new variants of the storied line.
Measuring 40mm, these Daytona’s are capable of withstanding 100 metres of water resistance and secured through a screw down caseback. Throw in a winding crown for good measure and this guarantees optimal reliability.
Those are the common features out of the way. Everything else is just plain crazy!
Available in white, Everose and yellow gold, the watches are just like the Le Mans Daytona chronograph (now discontinued!) released back in 2023 with its white gold construction. Or so you’d assume…
They didn’t settle on just precious metals in the end, instead choosing to opt for the bezels and hour markers as being completely in diamonds, across each of the timepieces. No more sporty tachymetric scale here.
The dials also oppose the typical matte background which promotes legibility at all times. Instead, you can choose from mother-of-pearl dials to sunray finished colours that are aligned to their respective precious metal case.
The watches do all have the chronograph subdials in the triple Panda dial format of 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. We must admit, it's quite a culture shock seeing The Daytona chronograph dressed up like a Day-Date.
We quickly reminded ourselves that just last year, they released a platinum ref. 126506 variant…so anything is possible.
Inside, the 4131 calibre skips away which is Superlative Chronometer certified and ensures a weekend-proof 72 hour power reserve to support the chronograph and general timekeeping.
Attached onto an Oyster bracelet or Oysterflex rubber strap, the choice is yours in how you wear this. Suited and booted? Choose the bracelet. For sportier occasions, the Oysterflex strap in our view would be the best option.
- You can buy a Rolex Daytona at retail as of April 2024 for:
- 126589RBR - £53,850 (White gold/Oysterflex strap)
- 126595TBR - £108,000 (Everose gold/Oyster strap)
- 126579RBR - £61,450 (White gold/Oyster strap)
- 126595TBR - £108,000 (Everose gold/Oyster strap)
Sky-Dweller
Case diameter |
39mm |
Material |
Platinum |
Power reserve |
66 hours |
Thickness |
9.50mm |
Diamonds |
No |
Colour |
Blue |
The Sky-Dweller saw a few of its own improvements at last year's Watches and Wonders. Given a fresh 9002 calibre which boasts a Chronergy escapement and new oscillating weight, they became faster and more powerful.
With that info in mind, we have to expect they will produce the same results during Watches and Wonders 2024. And boy did they not disappoint!
With two new references, namely the 336935 and 336938, these wondrous watches come in with a 42mm case diameter which is quite sizable, especially since the cases are 14mm thick.
Available in solid 18K yellow and Everose gold, precious metal remains firmly on the timekeeping menu at Watches and Wonders 2024.
There are a few factors that are consistent across both references. They each feature a fluted Ring Command bezel which is essential behind the workings of these novelties.
What’s more, the bezels allow different functions to be engaged, such as setting the date, time and a second time zone.
The Everose gold models feature a rich range of dials. Our picks are the fabulous teal shade, while there are others available such as a black sunray, cream white and Everose gold shade.
For yellow gold versions, the dials are black, yellow gold and cream white.
For adventurous types, the Everose gold with teal dial is the best bet. For those looking for a more refined model, the yellow gold edition with a black dial is the perfect option.
Across the board, the dials feature a date aperture residing at 3 o’clock, baton hour markers, an internal 24 hour ring as well as a series of rectangles on the periphery of the dial. These turn red when it's the relevant month.
Within the models is the same 9002 calibre which has a 72 hour power reserve and -2/+2 second per day precision. This is protected via a blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.
Attached onto a Jubilee bracelet, the watches are fantastic for the debonair gent who wishes to travel in absolute style.
As of April 2024, you can buy a Rolex at retail for:
- 336938 - £42,100
- 336935 - £44,500
(Unless otherwise stated - Images from Rolex)
Conclusion
Watches and Wonders 2024 has been a thrilling event so far across the board. However, Rolex may have taken the horological crown early on with their strong list of fantastic collections which have either been updated or refreshed completely.
What say you?
We’d be remiss if we didn’t go through each of the new releases.
From the Daytonas jewelled up revolution to the Deepsea’s decidedly confident precious metal construction, horophiles from Toronto to Timbuktu will be dreaming about these pieces for months (if not years) to come!
One trend we did notice this year was the excessive use of luxury, across each of the lines (aside from the GMT-Master II). The chronograph Daytona has been iced up again like its “Rainbow” predecessors.
The Day-Date comes in precious metals and has the choice of a diamond bezel and hour markers. On the other hand, the Deepsea, a religiously sporty timepiece, comes in yellow gold.
We don’t know about you, but could we see a change from the utility tactics of the typically monochrome brand to one which embraces being flamboyant and out-there? Only time will tell…
If you wish to buy into the opulence of the new lines from Rolex, we wouldn’t blame you.
However, we would be frustrated if you went with a platform that didn’t conform and match all your horological needs such as first rate security, best possible prices and a unique platform where you can receive multiple offers.
Chrono Hunter is the number one source for all your buying and selling needs, adding a glitter of magic and pizzaz to your timekeeping journey. Be it new, pre-owned or discontinued models, they are your gateway to horological confidence.
Feel like you need to buy a Rolex Daytona chronograph? Have we divulged enough information to inspire you to buy a Rolex 1908?
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