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OUR PICK OF THE BEST NEW NOVELTIES SPOTTED AT WATCHES AND WONDERS 2024

UPDATED APRIL 12TH 2024

Watches and Wonders 2024 is upon us, and with the eyes of the globe staring down on Geneva, it’s up to each brand to produce a timepiece that will blow our horological socks off.

With brands like Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Zenith taking part, we’ll see all the best watches to grace Watches and Wonders 2024. With the show being on the road for a number of days, we’ll see simply the best of each brand.

So, without further ado, let’s cover our top picks for this year's Watches and Wonders 2024.

Let’s begin!

H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	72 hours
Colour	SkeletonisedATEK
Reference	6814-1200
Water Resistance	120 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

H.Moser & Cie have been on what Gen-Z call a “soft-launch” mission. Releasing the H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green just last week, it features a highly attractive and zesty lime green fumé dial with the classic minimalism of the Pioneer line.

And boy, Watches and Wonders 2024 has kicked off with a zing.

Source - H.Moser & Cie

With such an enigmatic release, our heart rates skyrocketed with the almost-superfluous Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. As one of the first new releases from Watches and Wonders 2024 (8th April 2024 to be precise), there is a lot going on under the timekeeping bonnet

Measuring 40mm x 10.3mm thick, this super steel timepiece is given the classic cushion shape that the Streamliner is renowned for. This is in line with the equally notorious integrated bracelet that has a phenomenal brushed finish.

Keeping as straight and as sharp as an arrow with the previous Pioneer release, the Streamliner Tourbillon undertakes a low-key design. However, this time round this can be seen through a skeletonised dial.

This includes the flying tourbillon movement being devoid of any excessive material until only the main plate, bridges and oscillating rotor are visible. Of course, that’s not all.

The oscillating rotor is crafted out of gold which clearly stands out against the anthracite PVD finished main plates and bridges.

This allows the equally gold hour markers and hands to clearly stand out from the assemblage of the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and other skeletonised aesthetics.

This is powered by the HMC 814 movement which has a weekend-proof 72 hour power reserve and is viewable through the glorious sapphire caseback.

- You can buy a H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton at retail for around £69,000 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know this skeletonised timepiece promotes the three-dimensional calibre. Marvel, eat your heart out! It’s given exposed bridges to allow light to highlight every component of its details.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Specs

Case Material	Platinum
Power Reserve	7 days
Colour	White
Reference	IW505701
Water Resistance	50 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

It’s the 9th of April (just two days into Watches and Wonders 2024!) and IWC have blown our socks off with perhaps their biggest masterclass in horological history.

Source - IWC

The Portugieser has always been a bit of a rebel in watchmaking. Launched in 1939 after the request by two Portuguese merchants for a large dress model, this broke the mould of petite timepieces, seeking to carve a new path for the large and proud.

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is no exception. Built within a 44.4mm platinum case with 15mm thickness, the models are by no means slender or built to sit quietly under a shirt cuff.

Then again, with the amount of power and complication within these pieces, why would you!

The dial is inspired by the classic Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar. We’re talking triple sub counters residing at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock alongside a moon-phase function at 12 o’clock.

Don’t forget the four-window year aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock. Alterations are performed via the sizable crown on the case side.

Let’s stop here and chat about the moon-phase for a second. This “Eternal Calendar” offers a mighty 400 year promise that can capably deal with the leap year in February..and at the same time is capable of skipping them until around the year 3999.

If the definition of precise had an image in the Oxford English dictionary, this would be it!

The domed sapphire crystal offers a clear view into the lacquered white dial face alongside the legendary pitch black railway track on the dial's periphery. The Arabic hour markers and hands are silvery which counteracts with the matte white background.

Beating away within these masterful beauties is the Calibre 52460 which is viewable through the sapphire caseback. This features IWC’s patented Pellaton winding system, a stonking 7-day power reserve and a hardy 28,800VpH.

- You can buy an IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar when prices are released.

FUNKY FACT

This is IWC’s first ever perpetual calendar which is so advanced it can handle non-leap years

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Birch Bark SLGW003

Specs

Case Material	Titanium
Power Reserve	80 hours
Colour	White
Reference	SLGW003
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Like Mr T. Chrono Hunter loves it when a plan comes together.

And we pity the fool who disrespects this next best novelty from Watches and Wonders 2024. Especially when they are aiming to reinvent the horological wheel..sort of. And this Swiss brand reinvents a collection that's been silent for too long.

The Evolution 9 is what the Code 11:59 is to Audemars Piguet. Exciting, creative and with a little bit of suspense to what the future holds.

Source - GS

So, the SLBW003 came through the ranks at Watches and Wonders 2024 with a signpost pointing to the future of the brand.

They are utilising a high powered, hand-wind movement, suggesting they are developing the power of the timepieces, with a far more refined design.

For sizing, the models have slimmed down to a 38.6mm diameter and a razor sharp 9.95mm thickness. You know that the in-demand timepieces are those that are small, right?

This trend even follows dive watches which brands like Tudor and their Pelagos 39 have spearheaded in 2023.

Back to the latest Evolution 9 models, the SLGW003 is crafted from the brand's patented Brilliant Hard Titanium. This means it’s both lighter and more durable than classic titanium, plus its finish naturally has a better lustre.

GS still opt to use their signature Zaratsu polishing to glean that polished allure.

Past the refinement of the slim bezel and circular case, the dial is a sensual trip for every kind of style-loving horophile. Its poor 30 metre water resistance is not a disappointment as we know this level of delicate craftsmanship will detract from its durability.

The dial is inspired by the birch forests that surround the GS Studio Shizukuishi. The face therefore features horizontal lines that represent the bark of the trees in a gorgeous soft white shade.

Furthermore, this nature-infused piece allows the faceted silver hour markers and hands to clearly be legible, especially since they have a strip of lume.

Beating within the titanium case is the Calibre 9SA4. Utilising the patented Dual Impulse Escapement, the timepieces can reach a very impressive 5Hz or 36,000VpH, a strong contributing factor to the -3/+5 seconds per day accuracy.

The 80 hour power reserve isn’t too bad either if you want to flaunt it on a weekend trip!

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Birch Bark SLGW003 at retail for £10,300 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

The movement represents the first hand-wound hi-beat movement Grand Seiko have adopted in over 50 years. Time to move over Tentagraph

Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication

Specs

Case Material	White Gold
Power Reserve	60 hours
Colour	White
Reference	N/A
Water Resistance	N/A
Release Date	8.04.2024

Watches and Wonders 2024 is fundamentally designed to secretly challenge top luxury model brands to outdo each other with their respective horological greatness.

It makes perfect sense why Vacheron Constantin would wait for an event like this to release their most ground-breaking achievement to date, The Berkley Grand Complication.

Source - NY Times

HIstorical horophiles will gladly point out Vacheron Constantin’s influence in creating the most influential watches to date. The 57260 reference from VC represented the most complicated timepiece in the world, boasting 57 complications back in 2015

Just 9 years later, VC have outdone themselves again with a commissioned piece that was requested from the very same person, Mr Berkley, who asked for the initial 2015 edition! Money to burn?

Built within a 98mm by 50.55mm casing, the pocket model style is an instant ode to the classic 57260 reference. It’s the only way they could cram in the record-breaking 63 complications.

Built out of white gold, the model features a Chinese perpetual calendar which is different to the 57260’s Hebraic calendar. Accurate until 2200, they feature 2,877 components and cover every kind of complication.

For example, we’re talking the Gregorian perpetual calendar has 7 complications, the Grand Sonnerie has 8 complications and the split seconds chronograph accounts for 4.

Chrono Hunter tried thinking about ways to wear this… Preferably with a giant pocket or just leave it at home and stare at it?

- You can not buy a Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication at retail as it’s a unique, commissioned piece.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that this is the first mechanical timepiece to feature a Chinese perpetual calendar set until 2200?

Rolex 1908 Platinum

Specs

Case Material	Platinum
Power Reserve	66 hours
Colour	Blue
Reference	52506
Water Resistance	50 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

The Rolex 1908 is only a very new invention in the brand’s eclectic portfolio.

Released at last year's Watches and Wonders 2023 to replace the then discontinued Cellini line, the 1908 offered solace that Rolex were still capable of delivering exciting new lines and not rehashing the old classics.

Source - Rolex

Well, Watches and Wonders 2024 has brought with it the 1908 with a new material and dial style. Hold onto your hats…

The previous models were known for their minimalism including the low-key black or white dials. A dress number bar none, the new 1908 retains the same case size of 39mm with a 9.50mm thickness.

Thoroughly polished and given a slightly fluted bezel, they frame is identical to the previous models, but it's built out of platinum

The matte white and black dials have been altered for this reimagination. The ice-blue dial is given a guilloché finish in a circular pattern, similar to the tight stitching of a high-end garment.

There is a small seconds counter located at 6 o’clock alongside a variance of tapered white gold Arabic hour markers at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock and baton markers for the remainder.

Within this piece is the Calibre 7140 which is visible through the sapphire caseback. Providing a 66 hour power reserve and 4Hz beat, they utilise Paraflex shock absorbers and Chronergy escapement to qualify the pieces as Superlative Chronometer certified.

- You can buy a Rolex 1908 Platinum at retail for £26,600 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that these timepieces are available in two different strap styles, including a brown or black calfskin leather band.

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph - Platinum

A bit of a mouthful we know. But when people think of Cartier, they imagine The Tank or the Santos de Cartier. However, their collection is more enigmatic than that.

Specs

Case Material	Platinum
Power Reserve	44 hours
Colour	White
Reference	CRWHTO0008
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

The look of the Cartier Privée Paris Collection (CPCP) is comfortably one of Cartier's rarer design codes.

Famed for its tonneau case shape and single button chronograph, the design was initially created by Louis Cartier back in 1912 and evolved to the chronograph design in the 1920s.

Source - Cartier

Its last review was in 1998 where over the next 10 years as part of a Collection Privée Cartier Paris collection, the models would be inspired by the models of yesteryear.

For Watches and Wonders 2024, Cartier has returned to the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph and kept loyal to its aesthetics.

Crafted out of platinum, the model is very slender at 34.8mm diameter and has a 10.2mm thickness. This very closely mirrors the original which is a nice touch, but may be hard for the modern gent to get around his wrist.

The same tonneau case shape remains with its polished case and limited 30 metre water resistance. The dials utilise a matte opaline background and use a snailed sub counter at 3 and 9 o’clock.

The hands are designed out of blued steel which contrasts well with the background.

The silver hour markers are Roman numerals which run around a circular feature. This is framed by a minute track. Flip this over and the majestic sapphire caseback reveals the complexities of the movement.

The new calibre 1928 MC provides a 44 hour power reserve and a 28,800VpH. At around 4.3mm thick, the movement could be argued to be the brand thinnest chronograph calibre to date.

- Capped at 200 pieces, you can buy a Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir at retail for around £49,750 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that the tonneau case shape earned the nickname “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs'’ due to its shape.

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph CBW2181.FC8322 - Red

Specs

Case Material	Titanium
Power Reserve	65 hours
Colour	Red/Black
Reference	CBW2181.FC8322
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Every second counts. And the TAG Heuer Monaco is the brand's tour de force due to its incredible history and legendary status.

Source - TAG Heuer

Released in 1969, yes the same year Omega launched the Speedmaster onto the moon on Buzz Aldrin’s wrist, it became the first model to utilise a square case with one of the first automatic chronograph movements.

Narrowly beaten by Zenith’s El Primero movement, Heuer’s Calibre 11 was still a force to be reckoned with.

Associated with Steve McQueen and quickly becoming a grail timepiece for many horophiles, the line's distinct blue dial and steel casing seemed like an irreplaceable icon. Let’s introduce the fiery Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph.

Sized at an equal 41mm by 41mm case size, the titanium models have a black DLC coating to give a moody feel to the pieces, and further strengthen the mighty titanium material.

Around 15.2mm thick, this isn't a thin number, but its impeccable sporty heritage means it's prime for the man who likes to roll up his sleeves and get down and dirty.

The domed sapphire crystal is surrounded by two chronograph pushers on either side of a crown. Furthermore, there is a split-seconds chronograph activator at 9 o’clock to use to initiate the complication.

The dial features the same “circle in a square” aesthetic as previous models. Framed by a minute track, the red hour markers clearly stand out against the skeletonised dial.

The hands on both sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock are equally red, just like the very long red split seconds hand.

At 6 o’clock is a seconds indicator which is permanently activated. The hands and hour markers are filled with white Super-Luminova. For us, this is an excellent feature given the moody background of the models.

Given a sapphire caseback, you can get an unbridled view of the TH81-00 movement. Running at a rapid 36,600VpH, the timepiece enjoy a 65 hour power reserve which is capped at 55 hours if the rattrapante chronograph function is on.

- You can buy a TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph at retail for £121,000 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that the split-seconds chronograph allows the user to measure separate time intervals separately, an excellent ode to the racing heritage of the collection.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chrono - Blue Dial

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	60 hours
Colour	Blue
Reference	03.9500.3600/51.I001
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

The Skyline variant of the Defy line was introduced by Zenith in 2021. So far, it’s been critically acclaimed, resulting in another 20 references being produced which cover every kind of material and complication.

Source - Zenith

Therefore, it only makes sense that they throw in another version to titillate us horophiles!

The new Defy Skyline Chronograph comes in 42mm of solid steel and features both polished elements like the bezel edge, case side and brushed aesthetics across the tops of the bezel and lugs.

Capable of dealing with up to 100 metres of water resistance, the pieces are naturally quite durable which leans in well with the sporty theme the Defy Skyline is known for. Other iconic design codes include an octagonal bezel and Zenith’s star shaped emblem present on the crown.

The dial is hot horological property. Given a deep blue shade with a sunburst pattern, the blue is interrupted with many small black stars which link again to Zenith’s emblem.

Elsewhere, there is a triple chronograph layout, including a 60-second counter at 3 o’clock, 60 minute counter at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock.

The subcounters are slightly recessed which lends to their legibility. Speaking of optimal visibility, the black baton hour markers and hands are given a strip of lume through their centre for accessibility day or night.

Can you see the date aperture? It’s camouflaged quite well, but it’s between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Within this powerful beast is the famed El Primero movement. As the first automatic chronograph calibre ever made, the latest 3600 edition has a 60 hour power reserve and a reliable 5Hz beat.

This allows for a 1/10th of a second measurement which can be conducted via the scale on the flange.

- You can buy a Zenith Defy Skyline Chrono at retail for £12,100 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

The El Primero 3600 movement is the first to have a 1/10th of a second indicator. High powered to perfection!

Rolex Deepsea 136668LB

Specs

Case Material	Yellow gold
Power Reserve	70 hours
Colour	Blue
Reference	136668LB
Water Resistance	3,900 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Hello, James Cameron imitators! If you’re keen about the briny depths and see yourself diving headfirst into coral and reefs, you’ve probably heard of the Rolex Deepsea.

Source - Rolex

Its legacy goes back to 2008 and its achievements like the Deepsea Challenge reaching 11,000 metres in 2022, reaching record depths with James Cameron on his solo venture down to Mariana Trench in 2012.

Last updated at Baselworld 2018, the latest reference 136668LB seeks to restore a little luxury within the ranks of the collection.

At 44mm diameter and 17.7mm thickness, the models are crafted out of yellow gold. This is quite strange given the intense, diving heritage of the line. Nevertheless, we think it’s an exciting opportunity to bring the inherently sporty line into more formal settings.

Still capable of reaching 3,900 metres of water resistance, the watches boast a helium escape valve and screwed in crown. The bezel is given a gold knurled edge, but a surprisingly bright blue Cerachrom insert. Smurf nickname anyone?

The dial is a bold blue, but the matte shade doesn't impact legibility. The hour markers are both golden edged dots and batons with a strong dose of Chromalight to ensure maximum visibility.

Within its beast of a frame is the calibre 3235. Superlative Chronometer certified, the watches are accurate to around -2/+2 seconds per day and have a 70 hour power reserve.

- You can buy a Rolex Deepsea 136668LB at retail for £45,700 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

The Deepsea broke a diving record in 1960 when Jacques Piccard reached the bottom of the Mariana Trench with the Deep Sea Special, attached to the side of the submarine.

Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier

Specs

Case Material	Lucent steel
Power Reserve	65 hours
Colour	Silver
Reference	168631-3001
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Chopard aren’t too vocal in the horological world when it comes to their releases. With Patek Philippe’s pageantry and Rolex’s sales domination, Chopard sits comfortably in producing some of the best men’s watches of the highest quality.

Source - Chopard

The Qualité Fleurier line is named after Chopard took over the Qualité Fleurier Foundation back in 2022. For those who don’t know, the Qualité Fleurier title is a form of horological certification that was made between three brands, Chopard, Parmifiani Fleurier and Bovet.

You must pass COSC and the entire piece must be made in Switzerland. Chopard typically associated this line with precious metals, but this latest edition is made out of their patented steel.

This is still nothing to sniff at, as Lucent steel utilises 80% recycled material.

They're saving the world one piece at a time! At 39mm case diameter with a thickness of around 8.92mm thick, these terrific timepieces are thoroughly polished on the bezel top and feature satin-brushed case sides and lugs.

The elegance of the steel is executed nicely onto the stylish dial which has various silvery sheens ranging from a circular brushed outer circle to a sunray brushed inner ring.

The tooth shaped hour markers and syringe hands are legible, especially since they feature a generous dose of lume.

At 6 o’clock is the useful small seconds counter which leads us onto the exceptionally thin calibre L.U.C 96.09-L.

Delivering a power reserve of 65 hours and beautifully finished with Geneva stripes and circular graining, you can admire all of this via the sapphire caseback.

You can buy a Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier at retail for around £16,850 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Chopard is now the sole brand in charge of the Qualité Fleurier Foundation after Bovet and Parmigiani Fleurier dropped out. Well, we do like to keep you on your toes!

Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	70 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	126710GRNR
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

The iconic Rolex GMT-Master is the leading line for pilots. Released in 1954, they were designed after airline PAN AM approached the brand about a model they could utilise for their pilots.

Therefore, the watches were released and became the perfect antidote for the booming epidemic of transcontinental flight.

Source - Rolex

Unfortunately you nickname lovers will not be ecstatic with this latest release… Who knows! However, those horophiles who adore craftsmanship will love this! The new GMT-Master II 126710GRNR is crafted out of steel and measures 40mm x 11.9mm thick.

Qualifying around 100 metres of water resistance, the watches are tough as old boots, especially since they utilise the patented Triplock crown and screw down caseback. So why is this so good for pilots?

The bezel uses a black and grey Cerachrom insert with a 24 hour scale engraved in a silver colour. This works in conjunction with the extra green GMT hand on the dial to read up to three time zones at once. And we are all for a triple whammy of new releases.

The dial is similarly black which helps promote the baton and dot hour markers, alongside the classic Mercedes hands. Given Chromalight, they offer great legibility, as does the date aperture at 3 o’clock which has the brand’s classic Rolex’s magnifying Cyclops eye.

Beating deep within the steel is the Calibre 3285. Superlative Chronometer certified and guaranteeing a 70 hour power reserve and accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day, the watches are highly accurate and present a top GMT timepiece.

- You can buy a Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR at retail for £9,350 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

The GMT-Master II 126710GRNR has earned the nickname “Bruce Wayne” due to its all black bezel type. Don’t make “The Batman” jealous!

Patek Philippe Worldtimer 5330G

Specs

Case Material	White Gold
Power Reserve	48 hours
Colour	Blue
Reference	5330G
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Patek Philippe’s Worldtimer line is inspired by the work of watchmaker Louis Cottier in the 1930s, resulting in the first Worldtimer line from 1937. Now, the latest Patek Philippe Worldtimer 5330G is ready to take the helm of the collection.

Source - PP

Sized at 40mm diameter with a thickness of 11.57mm this is ideal for slipping under a shirt cuff. We have seen a lot of platinum going on this year at Watches and Wonders 2024.

But white gold is the choice of material which is luxurious yet not as gaudy as yellow or rose gold.

Given a rich blue dial, the tilted, checkerboard style background of the centre circle is surrounded by date complications.

For example, there is a pointer date which is present on the periphery of the dial, but readable due to the transparent glass hand emanating from the centre.

There are other rings totalling names of cities which are used to determine each of their relevant time zones. The innermost ring is a 24 hour scale which is very handy for when you actually want to clearly distinguish the time in three different locations.

Within the pieces is the Calibre 240 HU C which offers a mediocre 21,600VpH and a 48 hour power reserve.

- You can buy a Patek Philippe Worldtimer 5330G at retail for £65,600 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

The Patek Philippe Worldtimer 5330G is actually a continuation of the limited edition 5330 which made its appearance at Patek Philippe “model Art” grand exhibition in Tokyo 2023.

Tudor Black Bay 41mm 7941A1A0NU

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	70 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	7941A1A0NU
Water Resistance	200 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Most things look great in black. A suit, a luxury car, all the things that make a man look like James Bond tend to be in this moody colour. The Tudor Black Bay 41mm is certainly no exception and is a perfect addition to this years Watches and Wonders 2024 lineup.

Source - Tudor

Released in 2012, the Black Bay line goes past the gold tints for an all black colour scheme. Crafted out of steel, the 41mm timepieces are 13.6mm thick which is quite bulky which works well in line with the super sporty feel of the pieces.

Reaching 200 metres of water resistance, there is a unidirectional bezel with an engraved 60-minute diving scale to read decompression times for divers. The dial is equally black and has kept things down to a minimum.

This includes the amount of text on the dial which is capped at just 2 lines.

The dot and baton hour markers are coated in Super-Luminova, alongside the iconic snowflake hands.

The colours really are stripped back to black, white and silver. So, if you do find yourself in a spy movie and need the perfect timepiece, we can’t request one any better than this from Watches and Wonders 2024.

Housed within the steel case is the Master Chronometer certified MT5602-U calibre which offers 4Hz and a 70 hour power reserve. Fitted with a silicon hairspring, it can repel magnetism and ensure the accuracy of the pieces.

- You can buy a Tudor Black Bay 41mm at retail for £3,910 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

The Black Bay 41mm is available on three different kinds of strap, including a steel 3-link bracelet, rubber and 5-link steel bracelet.

Rolex Day-Date 40 - Everose Gold

Specs

Case Material	Everose Gold
Power Reserve	70 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	228235
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Before we get too into another Watches and Wonders 2024 timepiece, time for some context. The Day-Date collection from Rolex was introduced in 1956 and it became the first model to display the date and day spelt out in full.

Source - Rolex

Over the years, the prestige and status symbol resonating from this piece has remained, including precious metal models and two-tone editions.

With the new Day-Date 40mm release at Watches and Wonders 2024, the brand has sought to add a little horological spice from the Day-Date 36mm line, while adding it to the larger 40mm case size. We won’t say what just yet!

Crafted out of Everose gold, Rolex’s patented play on rose gold, the watches are around 12mm thick. A few of the critical design codes are present, including the fluted bezel which represents that this is a Rolex dress timepiece.

Given a twin-lock crown and screw down caseback, you can carry out light submersions with a 100 metre water resistance, which is pretty good for an outwardly stylish timepiece. The dial utilises a slate ombré style and the grey centre goes out to a graduated black periphery.

This sun-ray finish allows the dismantled Everose gold Roman numerals and baton hands to clearly stand out. There is a date aperture at 3 o’clock with a Cyclops eye and a full day feature at 12 o’clock.

Within the timepiece is the Calibre 3255. Offering a 70 hour power reserve, the models have a first rate precision of +2/-2 seconds per day which boasts the Superlative Chronometer certification.

You can buy a Rolex Day-Date 40mm at retail for £36,400 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

DId you know that this is the first time the Rolex Day-Date 40mm features ombré dials and deconstructed Roman numerals.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	65 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	M7939G1A0NRU
Water Resistance	200 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Tudor Black Bay models are perhaps the brands most lusted after line due to their high quality and timeless style codes, as well as entry-level watches and what you are getting for the price.

The Black Bay 58 is inspired by the release year of the legendary Oyster Prince Submariner, 1958. What a treat for Watches and Wonders 2024!

Source - Tudor

The latest Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT comes in at 39mm of steel which is a very accessible size for those who simply love shirt sleeves.

Furthermore, its 12.8mm thickness is not particularly slim, but a vast improvement to the previous 41mm Black Bay GMT which totalled 15mm.

The integrated lugs and case tops are thoroughly brushed to boast the outward sportiness of the timepieces. On the top is a 24 hour bidirectional rotating bezel which is broken into both black and burgundy and fitted with a knurled edge for maximum grip.

The dial is pitch matte black white allows the gold edged dot and baton hour markers to clearly stand out, alongside the snowflake hands. Or hand that is, as only the main hour marker has the protruded tip.

They are coated with SuperLuminova for maximum legibility. We also noticed the small date aperture at 3 o’clock which adds another dimension of complexity to the pieces and the GMT hand which has a triangular shaped tip.

Within the pieces is the MT5450 calibre which is Master Chronometer certified and offers a 65 hour power reserve alongside a -2/+4 second per day accuracy.

- You can buy a Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT at retail for around £3,750 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

DId you know that the Black Bat GMT is the first ever GMT timepiece created by Tudor?

Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5236P

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	65 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	M7939G1A0NRU
Water Resistance	200 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

You may recognise this reference… Released in 2021, the 5236P was groundbreaking due to its excellent dial configuration and remarkable functionality. For Watches and Wonders 2024, they have revisited the reference with a tasty new shade.

Source - PP

Crafted out of 41.3mm of 950 platinum, the watches are extremely luxurious, especially since they are just 11.07mm which is quite a petite size for such a powerful watch.

Capable of only reaching 30 metres of water resistance, they are not built for your sporty ventures. Save them for the office or that fancy Michelin starred restaurant!

The main change from its predecessor comes in the dial colour. Given a rich salmon shade, the watches feature a centre date function that distinguishes the day, date and month side by side. Look closely to spot the leap year aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The baton hour markers are surrounded by a black railroad track and faceted just like the slender hands. At 6 o’clock is the moonphase indicator with running seconds and a day/night aperture is at 8 o’clock.

Pulsating within is the fabulous 31-260 PS QL. Offering 28,800VpH and a weekend-proof 48 hour power reserve, the movements require 503 components to build.

- You can buy a Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5236P at retail for £121,100 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

The original 5236P reference is the first Patek timepiece to feature the day, date and month on a single line.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon

Specs

Case Material	Honeygold
Power Reserve	50 hours
Colour	Grey
Reference	740.055FE
Water Resistance	N/A
Release Date	8.04.2024

Watches and Wonders 2024 would be nothing if not for German powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne. Waving the flag against top Swiss brands, their Datograph is one of the brand's best watches.

Source - A.Lange

The Datograph was originally released in 1994 and took its name from the words “Date” and “Chronograph” following its relaunch as a brand. Celebrating 25 years of the line, it’s only right A. Lange & Söhne treat us to a redesigned play of their biggest line.

Sized at 41.5mm diameter, the very thick 14.6mm timepiece is crafted out of 18K Honeygold. This patented material is an alloy which imitates the warm shades of honey, but is more durable than platinum and gold.

The dial is a huge point of interest for horophiles. We recommend switching off the lights to see their patented “lumen” in full force. This compound shows luminescence from underneath the sapphire crystal dial and it uses UV rays to charge the material.

Turn the lights on and you’ll see a grey dial which is partially transparent to allow a view into the movement.

Fitted with golden faceted hour markers and pointed hands, the face offers perpetual calendar functionality at 3 and 9 o’clock, a moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock and an oversized date aperture at 12 o’clock.

The tourbillon is underneath the crystal and sits among the movement. Luckily, the sapphire caseback exposes the movement in all its 684 part glory.

Totalling a 50 hour power reserve, the L952.4 calibre offers a flyback chronograph, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and more all within this 9mm thick movement.

- Capped at 50 pieces, you can buy an A. Lange & Söhne at retail when you request a price as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that The original Datograph was the first new in-house mechanical chronograph that was made at the end of the 20th Century that used a flyback function and jumping seconds counter.

Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire

Specs

Case Material	Sapphire
Power Reserve	14 days
Colour	Blue tint
Reference	911.JL.0129.RX
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Hublot has a habit of using sapphire to bolster their watches. The Hublot Yellow Neon Saxem from 2023 is one such model that uses the material, but the latest Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire from Watches and Wonders 2024 is the most exciting yet.

Source - Hublot

At a very large 45mm casing, the 14.4mm thick watches have a poor 30 metre water resistance, but a truly dazzling design that would leave most horophiles gasping for air.

Following the same elements as sapphire, this variant has a blue tint which isn’t overly excessive, but enough to earn the “Water Blue” title.

From the large knurled crown to the sapphire caseback, this model could come off as gaudy and obnoxious, but it retains its hyper-modern feel through a skeletonised dial.

In terms of legibility, this is not a great piece. The actual dial is off centre at 12 o’clock and compressed into quite a small circle. This means the hour markers are minute alongside the arrow tipped hands.

It could be argued that you're not buying this for the traditional sense of watchmaking. This is more like owning an ultra-futuristic sports car, which is why the dial exposes everything to the user. Making the good stuff for Watches and Wonders 2024, guys?

The HUB9011 movement runs at 28,800VpH and an incredible 14 day power reserve. The manual-wind movement has a 7-barrel design which relates to the astonishing power reserve.

- Capped at 50 pieces, you can buy a Hublot Big Bang MP-11 at retail for £148,000 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that this is the first time Hublot has used this type of coloured sapphire in their timepieces.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH021 Genbi Valley

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	80 hours
Colour	Turqouise
Reference	SLGH021
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

Grand Seiko’s code of nature and textured dials have become one of their main selling points. The SLBG021 continues this great tradition with inspiration this time sourced from Genbi Valley fresh for Watches and Wonders 2024.

Source - GS

At 40mm and around 11.7mm thick, the watches come in a 100 metre water resistant, Ever-Brilliant steel casing. Given a Zaratsu polish, the watches are finished with great aplomb and are perfect for dressy or low-key formal events.

The Genbi Valley dial theme links to a valley near the Iwai River, close to the GS Studio Shizukuishi.

Famed for its turquoise waters and plentiful wildlife, the dial is textured using Kirazuri which is a traditional Japanese painting technique, revealing a sparkle and metallic shine.

Made up of faceted hour markers and sword shaped hands, they are 3D designed to promote their legibility, alongside the large date aperture at 3 o’clock.

Under the gorgeous dial is the 9SA5 calibre which is very slim at 5.18mm and offers a solid 80 hour power reserve. Running at 5Hz, the watches are rapid and perfect for the man who wants to look good, but also be perpetually accurate.

- Capped at 1,000 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko SLGH021 at retail for £9,750 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that the model will be available in June. Hold onto your coins!

IWC Portugieser Automatic 40mm IW358401

Specs

Case Material	5N Yellow Gold
Power Reserve	60 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	IW358401
Water Resistance	50 metres
Release Date	8.04.2024

The Portugieser line from IWC is known for its large case sizing but is ultimately a top dress model for most horophiles. Therefore, IWC have committed to redoing the Portugieser line with some fresh releases at Watches and Wonders 2024.

Source - IWC

Crafted out of 18K yellow gold, the 40.4mm timepieces are around 12.4mm thick which is great for the circular watches and their respective boxy sapphire crystals. The watches take their inspiration from the classic 325 reference of 1939.

Given an aptly named “Obsidian” dial, the black background has a fabulous sunray finish which allows the golden Arabic hour markers and leaf shaped hands to clearly stand out.

Furthermore, the recessed small seconds sub-counter at 6 o’clock gives these watches another dimension.

The sub-counter has a circular snailed pattern which furthers their legibility against the sunray finish of the dial background. Within the timepieces is the secure 82200 calibre.

This automatic movement is made in-house by IWC and features the patented Pellaton winding system. Capable of attaining a 60 hour power reserve, the watches beat at around 28,800VpH.

- You can buy an IWC Portugieser Automatic 40mm IW3584 at retail for £16,000 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that the obsidian dial and yellow gold casing is inspired by the pitch black sky at night and the golden lights of the city.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT

Specs

Case Material	Titanium
Power Reserve	65 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	298630-3001
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	10th April

Chopard arrived to the chic-sports model world a little late by producing the St.Moritz during the 1980s. Eventually renamed the Alpine Eagle in 2019, the collection features all the sports feel of the St.Moritz with a modern twinge.

This is especially the case for this Watches and Wonders 2024 update, the Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT.

Source - Chopard

Crafted out of titanium, the 41mm timepieces are around 8mm thick which is very thin for a highly sporty timepiece. Then again, titanium is naturally very light which is perfect for this everyday model.

The rounded bezel is locked in with 8 screws and sits comfortably on the top of the tonneau casing. The lugs are sharp, but they allow the integrated bracelet to seamlessly slip within the casing of the watch.

Capable of 100 metres of water resistance, could this be a possible contender for your next sports model.

The dial is completely openworked which exposes the elements like the mainplate and bridges. However, the movement is not let bereft with no stylistic features. The bridges are sandblasted and rhodium plated which works well with the brushed and polished casing.

The steel baton hour markers run around the periphery of the dial and are the same material as the hands. Both are coated in X1 Super-Luminova for extra legibility.

Interestingly, flipping the model over also reveals an exhibition back which gives a dynamic and avant-garde feel to the pieces.

The L.U.C 96.17-2 movement can therefore be completely analysed which is great because it’s a top calibre! It’s a very thin 3.30mm and is capable of holding up to a 65 hour power reserve.

- You can buy a Chopard Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT at retail for around £22,000 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that there is a St.Moritz gemstone rainbow model set that was released in 1984 and was set to be the trailblazer of the coloured gemstone fad?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph 42.5mm 5520V/210R-B966

Specs

Case Material	Pink Gold
Power Reserve	52 hours
Colour	Green
Reference	5520V/210R-B966
Water Resistance	150 metres
Release Date	10th April

Green dials in Vacheron Constantin’s lineup is not a revolutionary concept. Even last year at this storied event, they released a green dial Traditionelle with a distinctly olive tinge. But today, its Watches and Wonders 2024.

Source - VC

It’s nice to see one of the industries oldest brands progressing out of black and white morbidity and embracing some tasteful shades. With the release of the Overseas Chronograph 42mm 5520V/210R-B966, they are continuing the party, and we’re here for it!

Coming in a gorgeous 42.5mm 5N pink gold casing , the watches are around 12.67mm thick which is quite chunky, but the heartbeat of the timepiece requires a little extra room. The casing undergoes a polished finish, including across the Maltese cross bezel.

The watches feature two pushers beside the large crown which are used for the triple chronograph functions. The dial is green with a very dark green lacquer face, and the sunburst satin finish adds an extra fashionable detail to the pieces.

In the centre is a running seconds sundial at 9 o’clock, chronograph 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock, both of which feature a snailed, circular pattern to distinguish it from the background.

The pink gold material continues onto the baton hour markers and hands, and they are promoted with Super-Luminova. There is also a useful date function between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Within the timepiece is the Calibre 5200. It provides a 52 hour power reserve and a fabulous gold oscillating rotor which you can view through the sapphire caseback.

- You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph 42.5mm at retail when you request a price.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that this is the first time the Overseas line features a sunburst green dial?

Santos De Cartier CRWSSA0076

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	40 hours
Colour	Grey
Reference	CRWSSA0076
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	10th April

The Cartier Santos’ legacy will always trace back to its status in 1904 as the first ever pilot's watch. Following a squared casing which strongly contrasted the circular pocket watches of the early 20th Century, the watches are inherently in demand due to their unorthodox design.

Source - Cartier

Worn by Alberto Santos-Dumont who requested a model he could glance down at when in flight, the collection has taken off and become one of the mainstays of the brand. Today, at Watches and Wonders 2024, the line takes a very different turn.

Built into a 40.2mm casing, the 10.1mm thick models are capable of fending off 100 metres of water resistance. The steel models don’t look durable due to their elegant display, but have enough strength to ward off most knocks and abrasions.

Remaining in the square casing, the watches are vertically brushed and feature the classic sapphire cabochon on top of the crown. The integrated steel bracelet is a useful addition to creating the watches seamless silhouette.

The dial is grey which is moody, but allows all the information to be clearly shown. Made up of Roman numerals that run around the model dial periphery, the hour markers are distinct, just like the sword shaped hands.

There is an addition in the form of a date window at 3 o’clock, and a dual time complication at 6 o’clock. This compilation capably allows you to see two time zones at once as it’s ogt a 24 hour scale and a small day/night indicator at the top of the snailed subdial.

Past the anthracite shades and prominent dial, the pieces are powered by an automatic movement which beats at 4Hz and offers a 40 hour power reserve.

- You can buy a Santos De Cartier at retail for around £7.680 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that Louis Cartier and Santos-Dumont were friends which prompted the model to be built? It’s about who you know…

Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G

Specs

Case Material	White Gold
Power Reserve	55 hours
Colour	Navy blue
Reference	5980G
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	10th April

Patek Philippe’s Nautilus collection has been the source of many interesting discussions among model collectors.

Created by model designer extraordinaire, Gerald Genta, the lines released in 1976 brought with it an incredible level of demand due to its sports-chic design.

Source - PP

Now, 48 years later, the enduring collection remains hot horological property, especially the brand new Nautilus Chronograph 5980G released specially for Watches and Wonders 2024.

Given a case diameter of around 40.5mm and a 12.2mm thickness, the pieces are not built for excessive adventure, as per the 30 metre water resistance. The white gold casing however pertains to a type of luxury which only Patek Philippe can offer.

The design codes look straight out of a vintage Nautilus magazine ad. The prominent “ears” on either side of the case work seamlessly with the satin-brushed octagonal bezel. Even down to the integrated denim style strap, the watches are truly fabulous!

The dial is an exciting play on the standard Nautilus theme. The shutter-style horizontal embossed dial takes centre stage in a rich, navy blue shade. This coincides well with the white gold case, and the white gold baton hour markers and hands.

Further details include a handy date aperture at 3 o’clock and perhaps the most complex looking sundial at 6 o’clock. This monocounter totals three concentric scales, all of which relate to various chronograph functions.

Within the timepiece is the Calibre CH 28-520 C/522 calibre, a flyback chronograph movement. It provides a 4Hz and a 55 hour power reserve. Visible through the sapphire caseback, it is finished superbly with circular graining and a stunning gold oscillating rotor.

- You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G at retail for £67,620 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that the Nautilus was released the same year Steve Jobs launched Apple. Two geniuses working hard that year.

Zenith Defy Revival A3648

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	50 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	03.A3648.670/21.M3648
Water Resistance	600 metres
Release Date	10th April

Zenith and nostalgia go hand-in-hand more than Jay-Z and a Grammy. This is the brand that has their own Icons Epilogue collection which covers sourcing, restoring and certifying vintager Zenith’s to send back for public consumption.

Source - Zenith

However, if you don’t actually fancy the old-school tech, but simply like the aesthetic, Zenith have you covered with the latest Defy Revival A3648 at Watches and Wonders 2024.

The original Defy was released in 1969 under the A3648 reference and was the first to wave the collections flag.

Sized at 37mm of steel, the 15.5mm thick pieces are very thick, but that's to support the incredible 600 metre water resistance this piece can yield.

In terms of design, this reimagination is extremely faithful, including the 14 sided ring that forms a centre for the bright orange bezel.

For the fact-finding horophile, the rotating orange bezel was used to promote legibility for divers. This explains why the same neon colour continues onto the chapter ring surrounding the periphery of the dial and sits between the hour markers.

The baton hour markers and orange hands are coated with Super-Luminova which produces a bright, neon green glow. This is a strong contrast to the black dial, and allows other elements like the date window at 4.30 to be properly showcased.

This is adjacent to the unusually placed crown which also sits at 4.30.

Within the timepiece is the Elite movement which runs at 28,800VpH and has a 50 hour power reserve.

- You can buy a Zenith Defy Revival A3648 at retail for around £6,500 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that the same year Zenith released the Defy collection, they also released the first ever automatic chronograph movement, The El Primero.

Grand Seiko SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo “Starry Night”

Specs

Case Material	Rose Gold
Power Reserve	3 days
Colour	Navy blue
Reference	SBGW314
Water Resistance	Splash resistant
Release Date	10th April

“Starry, starry night” sang Don Mclean. Well, Grand Seiko are certainly painting their palette blue and grey with their latest release at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Hoshizukiyo “Starry Night”.

Source - GS

The tight 38mm casing is built out of rose gold and given an average thickness of 10.9mm. This dress model features beautifully curved lugs which are, just like the casing, given a Zaratsu polish to produce a clean finish throughout.

If you aren't too dazzled by the precious metal, we recommend looking at the dial. The blue face opts for a sun-ray finish which is defined as Hoshizukiyo, or starry night for the English speakers.

The double domed sapphire crystal gives an unbridled view of the dial with its razor sharp gold hands and equally golden baton hour markers. Aside from that, the dial is rather minimalist, aside from the white minute track that runs around the dial.

There is also white text which states “Diashock 24 jewels” and a small star shape beneath. This isn't a typo! It actually relates to the original text that was on the classic 1960s GS model.

It’s a reference to the shock resistance structure used by Seiko to ward off inaccuracies from falls or knocks.

Through the exhibition caseback, you can see the Calibre 9S64. It’s got a 4Hz and a 3 day power reserve which is pretty impressive, alongside the +5/-3 per day accuracy.

- Capped at 50 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko SBGW314 at retail for £25,500 as of April 2024.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that the original GS model was accurate to +12/-3 seconds per day and was the first model in Japan to be compliant with the standard of excellence of the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres.

A.Lange & Söhne’s Datograph UP/DOWN

Specs

Case Material	White Gold
Power Reserve	60 hours
Colour	Navy blue
Reference	405.028
Water Resistance	N/A
Release Date	10th April

It’s been 25 years since the Datograph flyback chronograph stole our hearts. In the celebratory spirit, a new variant of the Datograph UP/DOWN was introduced for Watches and Wonders 2024.

Source - A.Lange

Coming in white gold, the Datograph UP/DOWN is around 41mm and totals 12.1mm of thickness. Thoroughly polished on the bezel, the circular timepieces frame the beautiful navy blue dial and promote the rhodium-plated baton hour markers and sword shaped hands.

There are two subcounters between 3 and 4 o’clock and 8 and 9 o’clock which equate to a chronograph counter and small seconds respectively. There is an oversized date complication at 12 o’clock and an AB/AUF counter that is essentially a power reserve indicator.

Round the periphery of the dial is a tachymetric scale and the brand's name proudly emblazoned above 12 o’clock. Oh yes, don’t forget that this fancy dazzler was made outside of Switzerland, as per the “Made in Germany” text below 6 o’clock.

Flip the timepiece to see the exhibition caseback exposing the L951.6 calibre. Totalling 451 parts, the 18,00VpH movement can guarantee accuracy up to 1/5th of a second and a 60 hour power reserve.

- Capped at 125 models, you can buy a A.Lange & Söhne Datograph UP/DOWN at retail when you request a price.

FUNKY FACT

Did you know that A. Lange & Söhne was one of the first brands to produce chronograph timepieces after the Quartz Crisis?

Tudor Black Bay 58 - 18K Yellow Gold

Specs

Case Material	Yellow Gold
Power Reserve	70 hours
Colour	Green
Reference	M79018V-0006
Water Resistance	200 metres
Release Date	10.04.2024

Tudor’s enigmatic Black Bay 58 collection is inspired by the year when Tudor watches first became water resistant to 200 metres. As an ode to the original 1958 models, the dimensions are accurate. Perfect for the vintage lover!

Source - Tudor

Coming in at 39mm, the timepieces are crafted entirely out of 18K yellow gold which is a bold reimagination of the classically sporty lineup. Furthemore, the satin-finish is a beautiful well of expressing both the luxury and sporty themes of the timepiece.

The 200 metre water resistance is still maintained which is impressive given the slim 12.7mm thickness and sapphire exhibition caseback.

The bezel is unidirectional and similarly made out of yellow gold. However, the actual anodised aluminium insert is given a rich green sheen alongside gilt dive scale in yellow gold.

The green bezel keeps in tandem with the equally green dial. The royal colours are very attractive to most horophiles, especially since they work together so well. The dial utilises a snowflake hour hand and slim minute hand, alongside baton and dot hour markers. All of them are coated in luminova for optimal legibility.

Within the timepieces is the Calibre MT5400. COSC certified, they have a power reserve of around 70 hours which can last you a weekend, if you dare decide to leave this everyday beauty at home.

- You can buy a Tudor Black Bay 58 18K Yellow Gold at retail for £27,610 as of April 2024.

Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Collection

Specs

Case Material	Titanium
Power Reserve	7 days
Colour	Green/Black
Reference	N/A
Water Resistance	N/A
Release Date	10.04.2024

Franck Muller took the Long Island line in 2024 with a mighty bang. The Long Island line is originally inspired by the Art Deco movement, but plays on Novecento styles. For those who don’t know, this refers to a group of Italian artists who sought to revive sculpture and large painting styles.

Master Jumper - Source - Franck Muller

Therefore, the rectangular shapes have since become a mainstay of the Long Island collection, and even pushed it to become the brands flagship line. For Watches and Wonders 2024, they emerged to release three new variants, the Master Jumper, GIga Tourbillon and 7 Day Power Reserve.

There are a number of factors which remain constant throughout the pieces for Watches and Wonders 2024. All of them come in a black titanium casing and feature a green aluminium inner case. This inner case is completely new to Franck Muller’s Long Island line, but its purpose is not for aesthetics.

It's used to hold in the carefully designed movements.

Let’s start with the Evolution Master Jumper.

It features 5 disks on its dial which relate to one hour, two minutes and two dates. They all move simultaneously at a certain time, earning the Master Jumper title. This is viewable through the main sapphire crystal which is given a slight darkened tint.

Furthermore, the triple jumping complication is technically a first in watchmaking as there has never been three numerical indications for the time and date functions in one movement. Speaking of firsts, there is also an inner sapphire crystal which offers a 3D look to the watch.

For the Giga Tourbillon, the dimensions remain the same. We’re talking about a PVD titanium casing which fits in a green inner case. For this variant, visibility of general timekeeping is a tad harder than the previous Master Jumper which featured the hours, minutes and date in three successive columns.

For the Giga Tourbillon, the watches are famed for the oversized tourbillon which starts at 6 o’clock and makes its way to both 3 and 9 o’clock. Talk about compensating… But worry not, they aren’t lacking in any department!

For the 7 Day Power Reserve edition, the models are entirely skeletonised, including the FM 1745 calibre. The hour markers fit in well with the rectangular casing by going operating horizontally to one another, e.g 1 o’clock opposite 11, 2 o’clock opposite 10 and so on.

This skeletonised movement can still pack a punch too, due to its incredible 7 day power reserve and its built with a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock for expert timekeeping.

- You can buy a Franck Muller once they release prices. At the moment, they are exclusive to Asia Pacific, with 100 Master Jumper models, 8 Long Island Tourbillon and 300 7 Day Power Reserve being released.

Funky Fact

Did you know that Chrono Hunter was exclusively invited to speak with Franck Muller at this year's Watches and Wonders 2024?

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

Specs

Case Material	Platinum
Power Reserve	50 hours - either barrel
Colour	Salmon
Reference	Q622656J
Water Resistance	N/A
Release Date	11.04.2024

When horophiles hear about Jaeger-LeCoultre releasing some new pieces for Watches and Wonders, they instantly think of a fresh Reverso, decked out with the new complications. In this case, Jaeger-LeCoultre is bringing back the Duometre line from its extensive sleep following its initial release in 2007.

Source - Jaeger

Sized at 42.5mm of platinum, the watches are very thick with a 14.2mm height. The case is not your basic 3 part construction. Totalling 34 parts, the casing is given its dressy appeal via a rounded, polished bezel.

Once you get past the platinum glory, we recommend you stare deeply into a fabulous, salmony dial. Noted for its chronograph functionality, they take up three subdials, with the hours and minutes being read at 9 o’clock and the chronograph hours and minutes read at 3 o'clock.

This also features a moonphase and a day and night indicator in the 9 o’clock counter.

These two are oversized which makes sense considering they cover the main functions. At 6 o’clock is a jumping seconds display which calculates ⅙ of a second. That leaves two hands in the centre which refer to the general timekeeping and the other fits in with the chronograph which can be paused via the pusher.

Framing the dial is a black tachymetric scale and below the 6 o’clock sundial is an openworked element because… why not? These are creative people!

Within the timepieces is the Calibre 391 which can reliably provide a twin 50 hour power reserve and the ability to capably read 1/6th of a second if your hectic lifestyle demands it.

- You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph at retail for £82,000 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that the brand produced the Duometre to power two functions, the escapement and the time functions.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Collection Excellence Platine

Specs

Case Material	Platinum
Power Reserve	65 hours
Colour	Platinum
Reference	5100T/000P-H041
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

The award for the biggest title goes to…

Source - VC

We should probably cover what the Excellence Platine line is. This is essentially the collection for all of Vacheron Constantin’s top models, as a celebration of the brand's horological achievements and phenomenal craftsmanship. Originally released around 2006, the watches cover the American 1921 line to the Patrimony and finally, The Traditionnelle.

Capped at 50 pieces, the watches are crafted out of 950 platinum at a hefty 42.5mm. However, the watches are a respectable 11.7mm which allows the watches to be quite light on the wrist.

The watch does retain all the elements that make it part of the Traditionelle line. This includes the slightly stepped casing to the wonderfully fluted caseback. Don’t forget the fluted caseback!

The sandblasted titanium is filled with a number of functional and practical tools. At 6 o’clock and 3 o’clock are two sub-dials totalling a power reserve indicator and a 45 minute chronograph counter respectively.

At 12 o’clock is a big skeletonised tourbillon which is covered with a platinum Maltese cross, the brand's legendary emblem. The hour markers and dauphine hands are made out of platinum, and the second hand is blue for legibility.

Within the timepieces is the high-powered Calibre 3200 which is a thin 6.7mm thick and offers a 65 hour power reserve alongside Genevan finishing which is viewable through the exhibition caseback.

- You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Collection Excellence Platine at retail when you request a price as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that the stitching on the leather strap is actually made out of silk and platinum thread? Money, money!

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph CBS2216.BA0041

Specs

Case Material	Steel
Power Reserve	80 hours
Colour	Silver
Reference	CBS2216.BA0041
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph fuses the brilliance of the racing heritage behind the Carrera to the iconic Glassbox which they have been redoing recently.

Source - TAG Heuer

Releasing the Carrera Glassbox 39mm Chronograph in 2023 which added a yellow gold twinge to the Glassbox, Watches and Wonders 2024 has reintroduced a new play on the brilliant Carrera Glassbox.

Sized at 39mm which is remarkably small for a sports watch, the steely timepieces are around 13.86mm thick and utilise brushing and polishing throughout the lugs and case. Due to the design of the Glassbox sapphire crystal which squares up the rounded bezel, the visibility of the dial is drastically increased.

The silver dial is given a sunray finish which enhances the legibility of the steel baton hour markers and black, lume tipped hands. At 3 and 9 o’clock are two black chronograph counters which relate to 30-minute and 12 hour functions.

This panda aesthetic is timeless and is contrasting for optimal visibility. At 6 o’clock is a handy running seconds counter which does not have the azuré subdial background and seamlessly blends into the dial background.

On the periphery of the dial is a tachymetric scale which links to the racing influence of the pieces. Within the models is the TH20-00 calibre which has an 80 hour power reserve and a 28,800VpH.

- You can buy a TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph CBS2216.BA0041 at retail for £6,100 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that the Carrera is named after the treacherous Carrera Panamericana race which runs from border-to-border across Mexico.

Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono

Specs

Case Material	Titanium
Power Reserve	60 hours
Colour	Blue
Reference	298609-3008
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is vying to become a strong part of the Alpine Eagles glorious line. Released in 2019, it’s continued on from the heritage of the St.Moritz line, and is set for revolutionising the collection.

Source - Chopard

It’s not like Chopard accessible timepieces. It comes in 44mm of grade 5 titanium which does assist in removing some of the weight. Around 13.15mm thick, the pieces are tonneau shaped and feature a rounded bezel which is fixed in with 8 screws.

Capable of dealing with 100 metres of water resistance, the pieces are visible from both sides due to the excellent sapphire crystal front, and exhibition caseback taking up the rear to expose the movement.

The dial has a light-blue shade named "Rhône Blue" by Chopard. This is attained via PVD ans the design code is inspired by the iris of an eagle. Soaring sky high and looking the part has never been so easy.

The baton hour markers are framed by a tachymetric scale on the dials periphery, alongside triple chronograph functionality in the form of three black subdials. There is a very handy date aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock, and there are jolts of colour in the red hands of the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock.

Within the titanium shell is the 03.05-C calibre. COSC certified, the movement is able to store 60 hours of power reserve and beat a rapid 28,800VpH. Oh yes, you can view all of this yourself through the caseback!

- You can buy a Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono at retail for £22,500 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that the chronometer movement is made in-house by Chopard in their very own Maison.

Franck Muller Curvex

For this heading, we’re covering a few of the top releases from Watches and Wonders 2024 for Franck Muller, all in one go!

Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon

The Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton is crafted out of rose gold and boasts an entirely skeletonised dial.

Source - Franck Muller

Showcasing a tourbillon in the centre, the tonneau shaped timepieces are both memorable and luxurious. One thing we will say is good luck trying to read the time among all this stunning horology!

Curvex CX Master Jumper

The Curvex CX Master Jumper is like the grasshopper of watchmaking.

Source - Franck Muller

Boasting a brand new, in-house movement, the rose gold timepieces feature a steely background to promote a rose gold central ring. It’s here that the jumping hour, minute and date complication is split into three windows to showcase a dynamic way of reading the time.

Curvex CX Flash

Who ever said Franck Muller was the stay-at-home sibling of horology?

Source - Franck Muller

For Watches and Wonders 2024, the CX Flash offers a blinding style in the form of futuristic materials and neon green straps and lume on the hour markers. This is punctuated by the classic timekeeping dial in the centre and date aperture at 6 o’clock.

Cintrée Curvex Double Retrograde Hour

The Cintrée Curvex is already noted as one of Franck Muller's most distinguished lines. Why, you ask? Well, it’s due to the highly emblematic shape of the timepieces that feature a fabulous tonneau case shape in a variety of precious metals.

Source - Franck Muller

For Watches and Wonders 2024, Franck Muller updated the design to feature some phenomenal features, including a double retrograde hour complication, entitling the user to read the time in a way that’s never been done before.

This is attained through featuring two retrograde segments. One is an arc which showcases the day hours from 6AM to 6PM along the top, and one which focuses on the night hours by running from 6PM to 6AM on a lower arc.

They use a central hour hand which runs around the entirety of the dial in a full circle. TIme is shown via two hands which move in conjunction with their respective arc. Once they reach 6 o’clock, the hands jump back to their starting position which showcases both the day and night.

Who said horology has to be a copy and paste industry? Gone are the classic hour markers in a circle. Instead, the minute numbers take their place instead of the hours. So, while the original concept of timekeeping remains, the hours and minutes are effectively swapped.

Franck Muller - Vanguard

Vanguard Damascus Carbon Skeleton

Utilising carbon has become popularised ever since the racing industry and horology first shook hands.

Source - Franck Muller

In this case, the new Watches and Wonders 2024 Vanguard Damascus Carbon Skeleton is innovative throughout, including using the light and durable material alongside an openworked dial.

Vanguard Slim Skeleton

This seems more Crazy Hours than anything else, due to the colourful and wildly tall Arabic hour markers that are tilted at various angles around the case.

Source - Franck Muller

The rose gold models are exceptionally slim and fit over the wrist like a glove. Oh yes, the dial is completely skeletonized too!

Vanguard Open Back

The Vanguard line is very off-the-wall, but the Open Back variant is perhaps the most “professional” looking of the lot.

Source - Franck Muller

Given a white dial background, there are stretched red hour markers around the central hands. Inside the watch is a brand new movement which is why Franck Muller have opted for the open back to showcase the freshness of their craftsmanship.

Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Lum Ceramic

Specs

Case Material	Ceramic
Power Reserve	54 hours
Colour	Black
Reference	BR05A-BLM-SKCE/SCE
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024 is a trio of black ceramic Bell & Ross timepieces. However, Chrono Hunter has spotted one model which is the most forward thinking Bell & Ross utility piece we’ve seen in ages!

Source - Bell & Ross

At 41mm of black ceramic, the Black Lum edition is only 11.2mm thick. It undergoes a thorough sandblasted finish in order to achieve that slightly grainy, but matte black aesthetic that most modern sports watches would die for.

The square casing has become iconic in its own right. Looking sturdy and using the latest carbon material, the watches are exceptionally durable and wouldn’t look remiss out of a plane's dashboard.

Capable of withholding 100 metres of water resistance, the timepieces have what we have coined a half-and-half dial. It’s partially openworked, but it’s tough to really focus in due to the black tinted sapphire crystal over the top.

The hour markers and hands are coated with a strip of green lume which helps their visibility, especially since they are portrayed against a skeletonised and solid black baseplate. The movement is the BR-CAL.321 which has a 54 hour power reserve and a blackened oscillating rotor.

- Capped at 500 pieces, you can buy a Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Lum Ceramic at retail for £8,500 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that this is the first time black ceramic has been used on the watches?

Cartier Santos-Dumont CRWGSA0089

Specs

Case Material	Platinum
Power Reserve	38 hours
Colour	Red
Reference	CRWGSA0089
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

The Santos-Dumont is inspired by the Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont who took to the skies in 1904 with a wristwatch designed by Louis Cartier.

Source - Cartier

For Watches and Wonders 2024, this version of the Santos Dumont is a new look for the collection. Sized at 43.5mm of platinum, the watches are exceptionally thin at 7.3mm and they have a gorgeous brushed and polished finish.

Given a ruby cabochon crown, this works in tandem with the equally rich ox-blood shade. This shade is attained by using a carnelian which is a luxurious stone that is rarely used in horology.

Now, this is where things get a little interesting. If you look closely, the number of Roman numerals seems a little… different. While the XII and VI markers are normal, the rest of them are inverted meaning time is read backwards.

But why? Well, the shiny Roman numeral hour markers are designed this way to accommodate the brand new 230 MC calibre. This calibre is designed to make the hands turn counterclockwise. The very thin 2.15mm movement offers a 38 hour power reserve and 21,600VpH.

- Capped at 200 pieces, you can buy a Cartier Santos-Dumont CRWGSA0089 at retail for around £32,380 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that the Santos-Dumont was the first ever pilot's watch?

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper

Specs

Case Material	Rose Gold
Power Reserve	80 hours
Colour	Blue
Reference	CBS2241.FN8023
Water Resistance	100 metres
Release Date	9.04.2024

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper is a new play on the original 1967 model. It was inspired by the America's Cup where Heuer was the official timer, and TAG subsequently took inspiration from the boat, The Intrepid from Newport.

Source - TAG Heuer

This inspiration comes in the form of the teal colour on the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock regatta sub-dial indicator which matches the shade of the schooner.

Sized at 39mm, the watches do away with the classic steel build and decide for 18K 5N rose gold which is infinitely more luxurious. Capable of being 100 metres water resistant, the pieces are fitted with a screw-down crown to ensure their resistance. This is even with a sapphire caseback!

The dial utilises a blue circular-brushed finish which combines classic subdial shades like coral red and turquoise. The 12 hour counter at 9 o’clock comes in solid turquoise and the 3 o’clock sub-dial is fitted with a 15 minute counter. At 6 o’clock is a very handy ¼ of a second sub-dial which pertains to the accuracy of the watches.

Given rose gold baton hour markers and hands alongside a prominent red seconds hand, the minute track around the dial is snow white and clearly stands out against the navy blue dial. Remember, there is a small date aperture at 6 o’clock which adds a level of complexity to the models.

Within the rose gold casing is the TH20-06 automatic calibre which has an 80 hour power reserve and a 28,800VpH.

- You can buy a TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper at retail for £18,750 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that the blue dial refers to the open seas where the “Skippers” heritage was born.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 - IW503703

Specs

Case Material	White Gold
Power Reserve	7 Day
Colour	Blue
Reference	IW503703
Water Resistance	50 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

The Portugieser line from IWC has been hit a number of times this Watches and Wonders 2024. From the Eternal Calendar to the latest 40mm Automatic in gold, this latest (and maybe the last) rendition has exhausted the line with so much quality.

Source - IWC

Creds to the guys at IWC. You’ve put a brilliant shift in at Watches and Wonders 2024!

Featuring the Perpetual Calendar complication that was developed by Kurt Klaus in the 80s, the complication has become a mainstay, not just in IWC’s portfolio, but across horology in general.

So, bulked up at 44.4mm, the 14.9mm tall timepieces are built out of white gold, pertaining to the luxury of the pieces. It may be quite a heavy piece of precious metal to wear on the wrist, so we don’t recommend opting for this as an everyday piece. Maybe just for that red carpet waltz.

Reaching 50 metres of water resistance, the eyes turn straight to the ice blue dial. This powder blue shade requires a lot of work to make it look so supple. It is the end product of 15 lacquered layers that's then polished to achieve the shimmering glimmer.

What’s the deal with the subdials? There are four present on the dial. At 3 o’clock you have a date subdial which also has a power reserve indicator within. At 6 o’clock, you have a month subdial which has a year indicator covertly pressed above 7 o’clock. At 9 o’clock there is a weekday sub-dial which also features running seconds.

Perhaps the most spectacular feature is the double moonphase indicator at 12 o’clock which is made up of two, snow white moons. For all these complications, you simply need to alter the crown. Mr Klaus, we tip our hats to you.

The hour markers are rhodium plated Arabic numerals with long leaf shaped hands. Once you get over the dial, you are treated to a high-powered movement which capably runs all the complications with ease.

The 52616 calibre has a 28,800VpH and a fantastic 7 day power reserve that's split between two barrels.

- You can buy an IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 IW503703 at retail for £42,000 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that the watches come with a blue leather strap that was made by luxury leather makers, Santoni.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date

Specs

Case Material	White Gold
Power Reserve	40 hours
Colour	Silver
Reference	4010U/000G-H070
Water Resistance	30 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

The Patrimony line is one of VC’s flagship lines ever since its initial release in 2004. Taking influence from their original dress pieces back in the 50s, not much has particularly changed in terms of the Patrimony design for Watches and Wonders 2024.

Source - VC

However, the functions that are within this Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date are infinitely more forward thinking and enigmatic. We’ll get to that in a second!

Sized at 42.5mm of white gold, the watches are certainly not oversized statement pieces. Its 9.5mm height is a perfect size for getting under your shirt cuffs. Built into a rounded case, the bezel, lugs and case sides are polished to a mirror like finish.

Past the refined casing, the dial is quite unexpected. It may, at a first glance, appear quite like a normal, silver dial from the brand. However, this silver toned dial is given a sunburst finish which explodes lines from the centre, outwards towards the periphery of the dial.

This small feature allows the dial to appear much bigger and also give the watch a superb talking point. Complemented with rose gold, slimline baton hour markers, this works alongside the equally thin hands.

The hour markers only run from 3 to 9. From 10 to 2, the watches are made up of a retrograde calendar which indicates the date via a prominent, black arrow tipped hand. A moonphase sits nicely above 6 o’clock.

These two complications are significant achievements in horology, and VC’s combination of the pair is testament to their great skill.

Powering all of this is the Calibre 2460. This movement provides a 40 hour power reserve and 28,800Vph.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin at retail for £47,600 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that you won't have to adjust the moon-phase complication for 122 years?

Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Specs

Case Material	Titanium
Power Reserve	3 day
Colour	Ivory
Reference	SBGE307
Water Resistance	200 metres
Release Date	12.04.2024

If you find yourself roaring for a timepiece that fits in with your high-powered, shoot-at-the-hip living style, you may ironically be interested in the Tokyo Lion. It’s not a prerequisite to take your shirt off and start eating raw meat!

Source - GS

Built into a heavy-set 44.5mm titanium casing, the watches 14.3mm thickness ensures that most knocks can easily be repelled with ease. The lugs form one fixed barrier that aggressively cuts down and joins onto the titanium bracelet. This whole piece screams untethered rage!

Titanium is the best bet as it counteracts the excess weight from the thick piece. Given Zaratsu finish for that classic Grand Seiko look, the watches then have a 24 hour black bezel attached to the top.

This is no fancy two tone colour. Just pure black with Lumibrite coated Arabic numbers. It works in conjunction with the red arrowed GMT hand so users can read multiple time zones at once. Capable of resisting 200 metres of water, this is excellent considering the sapphire caseback.

The dial follows more of an elephant's tusk than a lion's coat. Its rich ivory shade is inspired by a lion's mane and is produced via many soft strokes to create a textured and persistently in motion design.

The steely hour markers are thick and have a centre that's cut with a stroke of Lumibrite. This is the same for the equally thick hands, but not the razor thin second hand. A small date aperture is present at 3 o’clock and a power reserve between 7 and 8 o’clock.

The Spring Drive movement ensures an accuracy of around +/-1 seconds per day which is phenomenal,especially since it powers GMT functionality, a date aperture and a power reserve indicator. It even comes with a 3 day power reserve!

- You can buy a Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” at retail for £10,100 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that this model relates to the legendary lion emblem that Grand Seiko adopted back in 1960?

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night

Specs

Case Material	Armour gold
Power Reserve	84 hours
Colour	Navy blue
Reference	IW545901
Water Resistance	60 metres
Release Date	11.04.2024

The Portugieser again? Yep, the party’s not over yet for Watches and Wonders 2024!

Source - IWC

The first time a Portugieser Tourbillon was introduced was way back in 2021. Yep, we’re talking about the dark days of COVID. The virus may be a remnant of an isolated past, but for Watches and Wonders 2024, the IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night is here to give us more Night Fever than the Bee Gees.

Constructed at 42.4mm of 18K Armour Gold, this plucky material is more durable than the classic 5N gold, which is a lucky break for the clumsy gents who lose their balance easily after a few margaritas.

This 10.8mm thick piece is capable of reaching 60 metres of water resistance. Built into a circular casing, the lugs slip in nicely with the black leather strap. It’s entirely polished throughout which links to the dressy feel of the models.

The dial is obsidian black. This lacquered effect allows the golden leaf shaped hands and Arabic hour markers to clearly stand out. The one-minute tourbillon is spotted at 6 o’clock, completely skeletonised and ready to ensure accuracy is met.

Is that Sauron's Eye on my watch? No, that's a handy aperture at 9 o’clock which relates to a 24-hour day and night indicator. This is made up of a rotating sphere that features a dark and a light side, depending on whether it's day or night. This automatically rotates every 24 hours which is a highly innovative feature.

The exhibition caseback reveals the 81925 calibre. It has an 84 hour power reserve alongside a 28,800VpH. Coated with Diamond Shell technology, the mechanism, such as the escape wheel, will not break quickly.

- You can buy an IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night at retail for £66,500 as of April 2024.

Funky Fact

Did you know that 18K Armour gold is a material that IWC created. It has a personalised microstructure that ensures the durability of the gold.

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