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Longines Unveils New 18ct Gold Master Collection GMT Watches For 2024

Elegance is an attitude that may be Longines strapline. But will this new gold dress watch help to continue the enduring travelling spirit with its GMT functionality?

In Brief

Dripping in gold, practicality and sophistication, the Saint-Imier brand has rung the bells already for 2024 with their latest hot release as part of the Master Collection.
Featuring a black GMT hand, the new 18ct gold Longines Master Collection watches have two cases in either 18ct yellow gold or rose gold
With a deep connection to travel and the ability to identify different time zones, 2023 was not necessarily a vintage year but nevertheless a noteworthy one with a host of new launches.
Props must go to last year’s releases such as the aviation inspired Spirit Flyback Chronograph, (and the sequel in titanium) Spirit Zulu Time, Heritage Flagship Moonphase and the impressive Legend Diver.
A new route for the Master Collection to travel down, they have brought back the older stylings of yellow gold with a clean frosted silver dial, applied Roman numerals and a 24 hour scale.
At £14,000 plus for a luxury timepiece with a movement that costs significantly less, is this dress watch all that is cracked up to be? It may be a sticking point for some but is a welcome addition to this expansive lineup.

1. Masters Of The Timekeeping Universe

Not quite He-Man levels of power, but the Master Collection is a true classic that never goes out of fashion…like Gone With The Wind. Sure we ain’t jumping from the horological rooftops in terms of its design or uber trendy architecture to tonneau shaped case a la Richard Mille.

Reference L26734712

Nonetheless, they make a statement on the wrist from a brand that has been ticking along since 1832. The Longines Master Collection stands as a testament to the Swiss brand's dedication to craftsmanship, precision, and timeless elegance. Launched in 2005, this collection has become synonymous with Longines' commitment to creating exceptional timepieces that blend classic design with modern technology.

One of the defining features of the Master Collection is its diverse range of watches, catering to various tastes and preferences. From simple and understated models to intricate complications, each timepiece in this collection exudes a certain refinement. The lineup has a wide array of styles and sizes to suit every discerning individual's wallets, tastes, collections and wardrobes.

No matter your travel agenda, the Master Collection pays homage to Longines' rich heritage while incorporating contemporary elements that make them suitable everyday pieces, making it a versatile choice for all manner of special occasions.

With traditional round cases, polished stainless steel or gold materials, they enjoy an array of beautifully textured dials. The attention to detail is evident in the carefully crafted hands, indices, and the iconic winged hourglass logo, which has been the symbol of Longines since its inception. One of the main highlights is its emphasis on horological complications. Longines has integrated a variety of complications into these watches, including chronographs, moon phases, retrograde functions, and annual calendars.

40mm Reference L279340922

The combination of traditional Swiss watchmaking expertise and modern technology ensures that each complication functions seamlessly, providing both practical utility and aesthetic appeal.

The movements are a testament to Longines' commitment to precision and reliability. Many models house automatic movements, showcasing the brand's expertise in creating accurate and efficient calibres.

The transparent case backs on some models allow enthusiasts to admire the intricate inner workings of these mechanical masterpieces. The Longines Master Collection extends into the realm of elegance for women, offering beautifully designed timepieces with diamond-studded dials, mother-of-pearl accents, and intricate details. These watches blend sophistication and exude femininity, making them a popular choice for those seeking a touch of luxury in their accessories

This key range stands as a comprehensive representation of the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and precision. With a diverse range of designs and complications, they appeal to a broad audience of would-be enthusiasts and aficionados, capturing the essence of both classic and contemporary engineering.

Be it a connoisseur or someone seeking to buy an elegant timepiece, the Longines Master Collection continues to be a compelling choice in the world of Swiss watches.

2. Personality Of The Gold Longines Master Collection GMT

2024 may only be a few weeks old, yet Chrono Hunter is already on the ball when it comes to new drops. So get your horological horns and timekeeping klaxons at the ready as we announce the latest watch alert - the brand new all glittery, all glitzy Gold Longines Master Collection GMT.

In essence, there are two models featuring 2N 18k yellow gold and 5N 18k rose gold. Now usual models from this range come in at the more entry-level range of a few thousand pounds.

However in this case, say goodbye to stainless steel and hello to luxury refinery on a different scale…a five figure plus scale thanks to polished gold cases, and sapphire crystals dominating both dials and precious materials which give it a bigger sense of exclusivity. Although way over £10,000, we would have liked a bigger water resistance rating (there are only 30 metres on both watches)

Measuring 40mm x 10.4mm, this super slinky timepiece is both dressy, elegant and has a touch of opulence resonating from all the gold tinges. The dials have been given a significant upgrade with frosted silver hues although not on the level of the icy cool Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier.

Roman numerals have been applied in gold in keeping with the case tone with extra depth and a 24 hour scale providing a traveller GMT hand in a darkened black. What does this mean precisely? In essence, you can adjust local time zones in 60 minute augmentations. The second hour hand ensures you can keep up to speed with another time zone whether hot footing it to a business meeting, organising Facetimes with relatives or kicking back at that beachside bar.

The face is without doubt what makes this timepiece 5 times the price of the usual offerings from this range. A silver frosted dial complete with the winged hourglass logo not to mention more than 10 applied Roman numerals in either material for that effortless luxury.

The date aperture is located at 6 while there’s a 24 hour scale encircling the rehaut as well as a railroad minute track if you are fans of those elements. In addition, we like the melange of Arabic numerals that gives the dial added interest and refinement. Plus as an added bonus, you can maintain local time.

Official Specs Of The New Gold Longines Master Collection GMT

Dial Colour	Silver frosted
Roman Numerals	Applied
Hands	Polished gold
GMT	Yes
Case Diameter	40mm
Case Thickness	10.4mm
Lume Capabilities	Not Applicable
Strap/Bracelet style	Soft touch anthracite grey alligator leather with 2N 18ct yellow gold or 5N 18ct rose gold
Buckle style	Pin
Lug distance	21mm
Caseback material	Sapphire crystal
Weight	51 grams
Water Resistance	30 metres (3ATM)
Limited Edition	Yes, Production run of 500 watches for yellow and rose gold models.
Magnetic Resistance	Yes

3. Don’t Miss A Beat With The L844.5. Movement

Pulsating inside the new Gold Longines Master Collection GMT is the exclusively manufactured calibre L844.5. Produced by ETA, take advantage of the same movement that has been seen in a number of different Longines watches that we have already covered previously like the Hydroconquest GMT.

Dancing away at 3.5Hz, this ETA A31.L01 derived flyer timepiece is not so much a powerhouse like the mammoth Panerai Luminor Base 8 Days Acciaio PAM 00561 with a whopping 8 day power reserve. Rather it is a reliable movement that is home to a silicon balance spring offering increased magnetic resistance.

Kinda like the Didier Deschamps of calibres as his nickname was the water carrier for many years due to the French international’s workman-like prowess on the pitch. Fuss free and as reliable as that old, trusted Labrador, the 72 hour power reserve should keep you going all weekend long wherever your travels may take you.

Movement Specs

Calibre	L844.5
Number of Jewels	21
Functions	hours, minutes, seconds, date window based at 6 as well as a 24 hour GMT style travel complication
Anti-Magnetic Silicon Hairspring?	Yes
Power Reserve	72 hours
Vph	25,200
Movement Type	Automatic
Manufacturer	ETA

4. Where Can You Buy A New Gold Longines Master Collection GMT

Limited to just 500 pieces for each model in either 18ct rose gold or 18ct yellow gold, buy a Longines for £14,200 at retail (As of January 2024)

5. What’s Our View?

All the basics are there including the synonymous 40mm round cases, combined with a get up and go movement. We are a fan of the new dial makeup that makes it sparkle more than a get together on Bonfire night. The 24 hour scale surrounding the rehaut is a nice touch while the flashes of applied gold across the numerals, minute, hour and second hands elevate it to dress status.

Suitable for the boardroom or Bar-Mitzvah, solid gold watches may be a thorn for some, but this springs to mind the concept of the modern heirloom. Something that dedicated workers received after three, possibly four or even five decades of loyal service. Now we like the grandeur of the timepiece which has a definite vintage vibe going on.

But is that enough to part with more than 14 grand?! Let’s face it, you can almost buy a hat trick of 41mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches for that…even at the new 4% Rolex price increase of £5,550.

That is up to you, the devoted connoisseur to decide. All we can say is we tend to agree with the 16th century bard William Shakespeare who declared in The Merchant Of Venice;

“All that glitters is not gold"

6. Best Longines Master Collection Watches

Looking for a little horological inspiration? Want to explore other salivating watches that the Master Collection has to offer hungry horophiles? Look no more. You are definitely in the right place. If you are in the market to buy a Longines Master Collection timepiece, why not take a second below to uncover some of our hot picks;

- Reference L2.843.4.93.2 - Salmon Dial

Everyone loves a salmon dial. And we could reel off some of our best salmon dials that are tastier than catch of the day. From the A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial, we are simply tickled pink by this reference from the Swiss brand.

With enough character to put Brian Cox in his place, the stainless steel case is a joy to behold along with its transparent caseback with sapphire crystal, home to the L893 movement. Measuring a sleek 38.5mm, the Master Small Seconds exudes elegance, compactness, Breguet inspired numerals and is brimming with timelessness.

At only 10.2mm thick, it has the slender profile of a catwalk model while the salmon engraved dial speaks for itself. The devil is very much in the detail which ticks many horological boxes.

RETAIL PRICE:

£2,350 (As of January 2024)

- Reference L2.919.4.97.0 - Blue Dial

A favourite among connoisseurs, don’t you just love a blue dial? None more so than our next contender in a stainless steel case. Measuring 42 x 11.2mm and weighing just a touch over 92 grams, this terrific timepiece boasts a moonphase display and is powered by the L899 automatic movement.

The Master Collection Moon-Phase Diamonds 42 mm is set with 13 Top Wesselton VS-SI diamonds with 3 different options to choose. Featuring combinations with a cobalt blue alligator strap, this is a really snappy dress watch for all manner of social functions and soirees.

RETAIL PRICE:

£2,850 (As of January 2024)

- Master Collection Retrograde Automatic

If you want to buy more of an oversized timepiece that’s treading on Panerai territory yet still makes an impression on the wrist, the Retrograde Automatic reference L2.739.4.71.6 should be on your horological radar. Why? Give us two ticks to explain.

First, off the bat, we like the seamless look which is accentuated by a complimenting stainless steel bracelet. In addition, there are enough retrograde functions to sink a ship (four to be exact) while there is also a moon phase display, day display based at 12, small seconds located at 6 not to mention a 24 hours additional time zone. This can be found on the left of this striking silver barleycorn dial.

Home to the L707 automatic movement, look out for the sexy blue steel hands, weekend proof 48 hour power reserve and applied Roman numerals. In spite of being a tad heavy for some at 200+ grams, this doesn't detract from the magnificent allure within this luscious lineup.

RETAIL PRICE:

£3,850 (As of January 2024)

- Reference L2.673.4.61.6 - Anthracite Dial

Dressed up or down, this credible chronograph should knock some of your work colleagues' socks off. The definition of corporate bigwig, there are many things that are going for this particular model.

Housed within a 40mm stainless steel case, the sapphire crystal promotes the highest levels of legibility thanks to its anti reflective coating. But for us it’s the anthracite grey dial that takes centre stage with more edginess than a soap opera.

Together with applied Roman numerals, this is offset with pink hands and host of chronograph functions such as a central 60 seconds hand, moon phase display with 12 hours counter at 6 o'clock as well as a 30 minute counter showcasing a day and month display situated at 12.

Pulsating away inside, the L687 automatic movement has a monocrystalline silicon balance-spring and robust 66 hour power reserve, ensuring you can keep time for that overseas trip or weekend getaway.

RETAIL PRICE:

£3,400 (As of January 2024)

- Master Collection 190th Anniversary 40mm Reference L2.793.4.73.2

Special edition watches from the 190th anniversary of the brand are always a crowd pleaser. Intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail has not been spared on these limited edition pieces that come in brushed grey, yellow gold and rose gold.

Old school style merges with modernity resulting in a daring yet lavish model that marks 190 years of this superlative collection. Measuring 40mm, on the wrist, we like the slim bezel and sub 10mm thickness that benefits from tapering lugs. Less than 70 grams this won’t spoil your attire while there are other points of interest that will pique aficionado senses.

A silver engraved dial for one with “190th anniversary” embellished on the caseback with the imperious L888.5 automatic movement showcasing a decorative rotor with impervious standard of refinery. Bang for your buck this certainly is, as it continues with a three day power reserve and silicon balance spring that offers both outstanding friction and magnetic resistive properties.

Available on an anthracite grey alligator leather strap with similar stitching, the blue, silvery hues and accents emanating from the dial marry perfectly together like champagne and smoked salmon. Versatile and smooth to the touch due to the silky like strap texture, they do know how to make a darn good dress watch.

RETAIL PRICE:

£2,350 (Yellow gold models have a limited edition run of 190 pieces and are numbered with an RRP of around £9,400…as of January 2024)

7. Conclusion

What do we actually make of the term “dress GMT?” Is there such a thing or is it the latest fad to sweep the community? Think what you like…there is no denying this is a steep price to pay for a watch of this ahem..calibre.

Yes, Longines is a surefire hit in terms of sales estimated to be around CHF1.2 billion ($1.3 billion), according to valuations from Morgan Stanley. Plus, 2023 saw them retain their Top 10 status as one of the largest Swiss watch brands globally, ranking in seventh place.

However, if you want to flex something a little more, dare we say flash, but not quite on the level of Richard Mille's RM 52-05 Tourbillon Pharrell Williams, this could be the one. Although we should warn you this comes with a great big timekeeping caveat. Look, we all understand the emotional attachment when you buy a watch and there is plenty to sink your gnashers into, But that is literally the price you’ll have to pay for a fully decked out gold novelty that’s brimming with grace, finesse and a soupcon of opulence.

This may catapult the Longines Master Collection into realms which have never been seen before…a bit like what the Omega ST 105.012 did for the Speedmaster on the wrist of Buzz Aldrin back in 1969. When they put their mind to it, they can no doubt compete with top luxury brands such as Breitling or Hermes. Throw in the GMT functionality and limited edition production and you are not far off making it a potentially sound purchase.

Mind you, unlike the endless Moonswatch launches, there won’t be any handbags at dawn this time round. Did we forget to mention the new Snowflake second hand release across 88 cities just before Christmas? Time got the best of us yet again I am afraid.

So is this the Wonka style golden ticket for the Saint-Imier outfit? One thing is for certain…like the 2024 movie, there are endless possibilities that will probably last as long as an everlasting gobstopper.

Want to buy a Longines the safest way without all the perils of inexperienced sellers, scams or open public marketplaces? Want to sell your Longines and upgrade to the all gold Master GMT Collection quickly? Whether new, pre-owned or used, Chrono Hunter can assist with your next buying or selling transaction.

Contact us here today to find out why we are the number one source to buy a watch or sell a watch. We understand the market like no other and have closely aligned ourselves with an exclusive network of luxury retailers giving you multiple offers through our one of a kind platform. Simply accept the proposal that’s right for you and conclude the sale or purchase directly with the retailer or authorised dealer in the safest possible way.

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Renowned for delivering the highest quality service, speedy turnaround and the best possible prices, buy or sell the smart way with Chrono Hunter. Find out exactly why we are the essential place to buy or sell a watch. Take a minute to read our string of impeccable Trustpilot reviews, demonstrating our customer centric focus and the best buying and selling experience.

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Photo Credit: Longines

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