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Question Time: Should You Buy The Revamped 39mm Longines Legend Diver Watch?

Dive watches are perhaps the most notorious type of model that has ever had the glory of gracing the horological kingdom. Efforts to make them waterproof came from around the early 20th century, where brands like Rolex with their Oyster casing and hermetic sealing kept the water out. Then there’s the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms from 1953, immortalising what these types of watches represented for enthusiasts and avid connoisseurs.

Omega would eventually be the ones to spearhead the first mass produced diving timepieces named the Omega Marine in 1932. In 1959, Longines would take over this particular sector with their aptly named Super-Compressor. This would swiftly become the inspiration behind what we have before us today, namely The Longines Legend Diver 39mm.

So, without further ado, we think it’s only fair that we get into not only the beautiful details of the timepiece, but the background behind the brilliance of this collection, which never ceases to rest on its laurels.

Background Behind The Longines Legend Diver

The new 39mm Longines Legend Diver didn’t always have its “Legendary” associations.

Super-Compressor 7150-1 - Source - Christie’s

In 1959, the models were known as the Super-Compressor. Longines have always been linked with the sea. In fact, you can look as far back as 1937 to see their involvement with horologgy in the murky seas. This is the period when they launched their very first chronograph with water resistant push-pieces.

In 1958, Longines released their first underwater watch. This was the first instance featuring the highly regarded Super-Compressor case, made with an internal rotating bezel and two screw down crowns, allowing them to have an excellent degree of water resistance.

The case was designed by Piquerez, a highly innovative designer that was famed for both the Compressor and Super Compressor cases. Constructed with an astonishing system, the water resistance of these watches is simultaneously increased as the water pressure rises.

Sized at 42mm, they have a water resistance of 120 metres and a self-winding mechanical in-house movement, as well as a bidirectional rotating bezel that graduates over 60 minutes. Between 1963 to 1965, they remained at 42mm and retained their 120 metre water resistance. In 1971 to 1972, they were then designed specifically for The Royal Australian Navy and bolstered with an increased 300 metres of water resistance.

The collection fell silent until 2007 with a fresh take on the collection. But you cannot teach an old dog new tricks. Keeping its 42mm case size and 300 metre water resistance, they are powered by an automatic calibre, the L633.

Now, the last update before the glorious re-interpretation in 2023 was made in 2017. Crafted out of bronze, they remained in their 42mm case, providing 300 metres of water resistance and featured an automatic winding calibre, the L888.5.

So, we’ve run through the eclectic past of the brilliant Legend Diver collection, and its progressive rise to what we have before us today. On that note, let’s get straight into all the fascinating elements behind the new watch.

How Does The Compressor System Work?

The Compressor system operates thanks to a gasket and spring system that compresses and pushes together, allowing the water resistance to increase as the level of water pressure similarly rises.

Critics argue that this could be considered as a rather outdated system. After all, Rolex utilises twin lock or triplock crowns that become sealed in place when secured. Omega on the other hand opt to use gaskets that sit nicely between the crown, pushers, crystal and the case itself. This ensures it is beyond impenetrable.

We would be remiss if we didn’t praise them for sticking to their classical innovations. Not only does it add a little vintage allure, but it represents their immense pride, showing many cues to their horological past.

Take for example IWC’s in-house movements using the Pawl System in their movements for over 60 years. How about the excessive crown guard that rests over Panerai’s Luminor collection? While these historical features may not be the most effective in comparison with the latest innovations in the modern era, we can absolutely appreciate their unique design, especially if they are slightly improved as time goes on.

Construction Of The New 39mm Longines Legend Diver

They have dutifully followed the design code of the past as noted by the dual crown and internal rotating bezel. However, the Swiss brand has opted to look forwards as they slim down and showcase a new, spectacular piece of enduring minimalism.

Source - Longines

The iconic Super-Compressor line has continued to evolve, eventually resulting in the Legend collection that resided at 42mm case diameter or the women's version that resides at 36mm. Now, they have blessed us with a middle ground of 39mm diameter.

As a result, it means they can easily slip under shirt sleeves for those special occasions and not be caught on your fine silky threads. They are crafted out of stainless steel pertaining to the classic history of the timepieces. Sure, it may not be capable of bringing the unorthodox firepower of the bronze variation from 2017…but it’s still a robust material.

The Saint-Imer titans have decided to give them a new combination of brushing and polishing throughout the models for a dual style aesthetic. The diameter has been reduced by 3mm, and the lug to lug width similarly does the same as it decreased 5.4mm from 52.4mm to 47mm. This is considerably smaller than The Panerai Luminor Base PAM 176 which has a lug to lug of 53mm.

They still boast the ridged two crowns located at 2 and 4 o’clock. Hang on a tick…why two crowns I hear you ask? Well, the bottom one is the one that adjusts the time, while the one above is the one that modifies the inner rotating bezel.

They are surrounded by a domed sapphire crystal that improves legibility and adds extra security to the piece. This is further exemplified by the solid caseback that ensures a compact size and allows the watches to retain a fantastic 300 metres of water resistance. Enough to make a splash on the waves, jet skiing, waterskiing and all manner of watersports activities.

The caseback is another point of interest as it features a stamped image of a person in scuba attire within the centre of the timepiece. Furthermore, there is some interesting text that surrounds the emblem, including “Legend Diver”, “Chronometer Officially Certified” and “Diver’s Watch - 300 Meter” (Yes, that’s the American way of spelling it!).

The dials come in two set colours, blue and black. Undergoing a lacquered finish that results in a smooth finish, the black and blue dials keep their sloped design as defined by their predecessors since 1959 and the initial reference 7042.

The bezel takes the place of the flange, allowing for a diving scale to be covertly placed , meaning they keep its waterproof title. In the centre of the dial, the hour markers are designed into Arabic numerals and baton style markers which are split into two squares and a longer rectangle.

The hands are new as they have gone with a chunkier hour hand with an arrow tip to account for a luminous filling throughout, just like the minute and seconds hands which are also a little thicker for maximum legibility.

Just like the previous bronze version, the dials offer no date aperture at 3 o’clock. Look, this ain't a no date Submariner (adored by many fans and hot property among enthusiasts) but we still think this is a nice adaptation. It allows the simplicity of the piece to be enhanced, in stark contrast to being filled with unnecessary complications.

So, the physical designs of the watches are exceptionally sharp. Nothing too complicated or off the wall like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Spider-Man, or a vintage Rolex Tiger Eye dial. Released in the 1980s, the watches are in limited numbers and are fitted onto The Datejust collection. No longer in production, we recommend you keep your own eyes open for them! But it similarly keeps a fantastic deep sea-influenced heritage like the legendary Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe.

Technical Features Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver

So let’s dig or should that be submerge a little deeper into uncharted waters to match the Rolex Deepsea Challenge. Oh yes, Chrono Hunter leaves no horological stone unturned in the pursuit of bringing you the latest goings on and natterings from the watch world.

The St. Imier based brand has decided to not only keep the design looking sleek, but give the movement a superb upgrade in the form of a tougher movement, built like Arnold Schwarzennegger with plenty of timekeeping muscle.

Source - Longines

Powered by the new Calibre L888.6. automatic movement, the updated 39mm version runs the hours, minutes and the seconds functions. This self-winding mechanical movement runs at an unorthodox 25,200 VpH and is supported by a monocrystalline silicon balance spring, ensuring anti-magnetism and a high level of precision.

Offering a new weekend-proof 72 hour power reserve, the watches are COSC certified, ensuring longevity and unparalleled accuracy. This is a sizable increase from the previous L888.5 calibre that was based on the bronze 2017 version as it only had a power reserve of 60 hours.

What’s Our View Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver?

Quick, we’re almost out of time.

Source - Longines

They have made the conscious decision to not only cater to a new audience with a considerably smaller size than the previous 42mm watches, but with a staunch link to their past with the dual crown and internal rotating bezel design.

Furthermore, they have kept their dial design similar with a sloped internal bezel that's accompanied by a diving scale along the blue or black lacquer dial, yet have vastly improved the legibility of the dial by making the hands thicker in order to boast more Luminova for additional visibility.

Admittedly, we are huge fans of the previous bronze case as it represented a very visible alteration from the past. If we were to be very critical, we would like a little more experimentation in terms of materials such as titanium or maybe a more luxurious precious metal such as gold as seen in the fresh TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Chronograph.

However, we can fully appreciate that they are trying to keep things as authentic as possible with the steel casing. They do make some necessary changes such as offering a brushed and a polished aesthetic, while the no date aperture keeps things sleek and dress like on the wrist.

Fitted with either a steel bracelet or a new fabric strap for the blue dial versions, a tan brown leather strap and a steel bracelet alongside the black dial, we can absolutely see you flaunting this under a white suit shirt in the office or paired with a white tee or neutral cashmere jumper for more casual events to fit in with your busy lifestyle.

However, if you want to lean into the luxury sports vibe, we recommend you choose a black bomber jacket and blue jeans for when you are overlooking the grandstands from your private box.

These watches are upgraded with a brand new L888.6 calibre that improves the power reserve from 60 hours to 72 hours. Throw in COSC certification for good measure and it shows that this Swiss outfit fully respects the design traditions of the past, with a nod to technical enhancements.

If we were to summarise the pluses and minuses of this gorgeous piece, we would hasten to argue this;

Pros:

Retains classic internal bezel and twin crown design
COSC certified movement
Modern 39mm case sizing

Cons:

Average 25,200 VpH frequency
Non-innovative steel case in comparison with previous bronze cases.
Dial is legible, but features no embellishments like a sunray finish.

Other Specs Of The New 39mm Longines Legend Diver

For those constantly on the move, let’s take a minute below to show those all important stats;

Reference Numbers	Dial Colour	Strap	Material
L3.764.4.90.6	Blue Lacquer	Steel Bracelet	Steel
L3.764.4.50.6	Black Lacquer	Steel Bracelet	Steel
L3.764.4.90.2	Blue Lacquer	Fabric Strap	Steel
L3.764.4.50.0	Black Lacquer	Tan Leather Strap	Steel

Movement	L888.6
Functions	Hours, Minutes and Seconds
Case Back	Solid
Water Resistance	300 metres
Case Thickness	12.70mm
Diameter	39mm
Crystal	Domed Sapphire
COSC Certified?	Yes
Power Reserve	72 hours
Jewels	21
Bracelet/Strap Material	Steel Bracelet, fabric strap, tan leather strap
Limited Edition	No
Lug to Lug Distance	47mm

Where Can You Buy A 39mm Longines Legend Diver?

As of December 2023, you can buy a Longines Legend Diver 39mm at retail for:

L3.764.4.90.6 - (Blue Dial - Steel Bracelet) - £3,050
L3.764.4.50.6 - (Black Dial - Steel Bracelet) - £3,050
L3.764.4.90.2 - (Blue Dial - Fabric Strap) - £2,850
L3.764.4.50.0 - (Black Dial - Leather Strap) - £3,050

Conclusion

We’re nearing the end, Timelords! There is an overarching question that we must beg to be answered: Should you consider buying the new 39mm Longines Legend Diver Watch.

After some extensive research, and a little chatting with our own gurus at Chrono Hunter HQ, we believe it’s only fair to give a big thumbs up for this hot new timepiece! Don’t despair if you think that this is a fast mover. They have done us a favour by keeping this out of the realms of limited edition, and accessible to every type of horophile.

There’s not many watches that have the capability to offer a great nautical heritage like this timepiece. Following on from the Super-Compressor to the new collection, they have brought this lineup out from its six year silence (since the bronze variation), and brought in a new, yet classical re-interpretation of their predecessors!

What if we were to say that you could own this piece via the best horological platform in the industry! Have a chat with Chrono Hunter here to ensure you never get a raw deal and receive the best prices possible through multiple offers on our unique platform. Available on both Android and Apple devices, why not log on via our dedicated app and converse with our established network of luxury retailers. Similarly, you can benefit from an exceptionally experienced team that knows their straps from their bracelets and even their tourbillons!

The luxurious Saint-Imer brand has offered a hot take on the legendary collection with a modernised sizing, a stronger 72 hour power reserve and enough lume to light up Blackpool Tower! Nonetheless, they haven’t thrown caution to the wind entirely however… You can still buy the classical designs of the two crown and integrated bezel design, as well as the sloped diving scale along the flange with arrow tipped hands.

While they may not be reaching the realms of unbridled luxury with gold and diamonds, they are more than proving their mettle with a stainless steel construction and certified 300 metres water resistance. We’d love to add a gold star onto the dial like their revered Spirit Flyback watches. But we’ll settle and give a well deserved high-five to the scuba gent on the caseback!

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Feeling the impulse to buy a Longines Legend Diver 39mm? Want to leave the dressy piece at home and boost your diving pride? Well, we recommend you take a moment to chat to Chrono Hunter here. Showcasing unrivalled expertise via our knowledgeable team together with a verified portfolio of reputable luxury retailers, you can be assured of quality, peerless service, and quick turnaround when you buy a watch or sell a watch through us.

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