- What Is The Most Expensive Tourbillon?
- Why Is A Tourbillon So Expensive?
- Why Is A Tourbillon So Special?
- What Is A Tourbillon?
- H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept
- Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A Samuel Ross
- IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43mm Tourbillon Markus Bühler
- TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon
- Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42mm Willy Breitling
- Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked
- Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon
- 9. Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5316/50P
- 10. Grand Seiko Kodo
- 11. Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin
- 12. A.Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon
- 13. Panerai Tourbillon GMT Bronzo
- 14. Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges
- 15. Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel
- 16. Omega De Ville Tourbillon
- 17. Zenith Defy Fusee Tourbillon
- 18. Richard Mille RM 38-02
- 19. Drive De Cartier Flying Tourbillon Watch
- Conclusion
Complications in the horological world have never ceased to amaze us, but none more so than the hypnotic tourbillon within luxury watches.
From the simple date aperture, modified by Rolex to feature a magnifying Cyclops eye as per The Rolex Submariner, the now iconic large date function of A. Lange & Söhne within the Lange 1 Time Zone, or the incredible triple calendar dial style that Longines employ within their Master Collection, complications have been blowing our minds more than Oris’ Kermit watch from Watches and Wonders 2023!
Whether it’s crafty chronographs or a marvellous moonphase, enthusiasts and connoisseurs do like their timepieces as complex as the theory of evolution.
It could easily be argued that one of the most respected and difficult ones to pull off is the tourbillon. However, we use the term “complication” loosely as it technically doesn’t serve a timekeeping function compared to a chronograph or a date pointer.
Firstly, it’s time to clarify a few things here.
What Is The Most Expensive Tourbillon?
The most expensive tourbillon watch of all time is the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. Boasting an astonishing 12 complications and a stunning blue champlevé and cloisonné enamel dial, the watches feature a great sky chart and moon phase on the dial.
It sold at a Christie’s auction in 2023 for around £4.7 million at the time of writing.
Why Is A Tourbillon So Expensive?
Tourbillon watches are so expensive because of how complex the process of making the complication is. Made up of many minuscule parts, it is an extensive process for a watchmaker that takes a great deal of time, precision and care.
These parts are all hand finished to extremely high standards with absolutely no room for error.
This in turn increases prices as it is considered a genuine symbol of luxury opulence. The tourbillon mechanism itself is as precious as a snowflake and weighs in at less than a gram, boasting more than 40 individual parts.
An emblem of pure prestige among the watchmaking world, this is a staple of any major player in the Haute Horlogerie world.
Why Is A Tourbillon So Special?
As seen in the smash hit Wicked, it’s all about defying gravity.
This particular complication’s sole purpose was to enhance precision on these types of watches, by countering what gravity did to the innards.
Composed of not just the balance wheel but many other components like the balance screw and escape wheel, these delicate elements of this regulating mechanism sit proudly inside a tourbillon cage.
Rotating endlessly on its axis, it solved an age-old problem of pocket timepieces that constantly sat within the pockets of gentlemen thanks to the rotation of the balance wheel. Now making a comeback, they are fast becoming all the rage once again over the last few decades.
This is due to its visual theatre on the dial, especially when you consider the constantly moving cage that’s been a part of many top Swiss luxury watch brands.
What Is A Tourbillon?
Quick fact. Tourbillon is French for “Whirlwind”. And if you are caught up in a storm about the ins and outs of this complication, we have your back. If you’ve ever had the chance to look one face on, you will know why it’s defined like that!
As we said, it doesn't specifically fit under the complication title as it doesn’t offer a specific timekeeping function. Originally patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, it was specifically made for that pesky thing called gravity.
Do we have a second to mention about Sir Isaac Newton? Go on then! Gravitational theory finds that it's the same force that keeps us to the floor and allows apples to fall to the ground, that simultaneously keeps the planets and the moons in orbit.
It was Breguet who came up with the solution to keep all the elements of the watch in perpetual rotation at a controlled speed (typically around one rotation per minute).
The tourbillon is a rotating cage that holds the balance wheel, hairspring, and escapement of a watch. Its purpose is to counteract the effects of gravity on the timekeeping accuracy of the watch.
Gravity tends to pull down on the components, causing it to run slightly faster or slower depending on its position.
By continuously rotating the balance wheel and escapement within the tourbillon cage, the effects of gravity are averaged out over time, resulting in improved accuracy. This is particularly beneficial in pocket watches or wristwatches that are often in different positions throughout the day.
The complication has since continued to evolve. From what was originally a single axis, has continued to grow to a dual axis and a four axis.
More axis equals more precision! Another update is the flying tourbillon which takes the classic construction and instead decides to have it supported just on one side as opposed to two. This in theory means you can stare longingly at the technical elements firing on all cylinders a lot easier.
Talk about showboating for the sake of it! So, we’ve indulged you in a little history and defined exactly what this complication is all about. Now, why don’t we get you Timelords 19 of the very best Tourbillon watches to flex on your wrist.
Let’s get straight into it.
1. H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept
The St. Petersburg brand, H.Moser & Cie are instrumental in pushing the envelope of Haute Horlogerie.
Source - H.Moser & Cie
Boasting the extraordinary Endeavour Perpetual Tantalum and The understated Streamliner Centre Seconds with a dial so salmony and smoky that it’s like a pescatarian West Texas-Style Barbeque, H.Moser & Cie have been unbelievably active in releasing new pieces this year.
So, while we weren’t surprised by the level of innovation behind their new Endeavour Tourbillon Concept release during Geneva Watch Days, we are still pleasantly surprised by the quality of the timepiece, and the beautiful complication feature.
Crafted in a red gold 40mm case, the watches have dropped from the previous 42mm edition which came in white gold in 2019. Red gold offers an unbridled level of luxury, sleekness and style, counteracting the moody darkness of the Vantablack with a coal fire, reddish warmth.
The dial is made of Vantablack, the darkest man-made material ever, with a light capture rate of 99.965%. This enables complete visibility, from the sterile ambience of the office lighting, to the piercing rays of a midsummer countryside walk.
Doing away with hour markers, their leaf shapes are worth noting. Tied in with red gold hour and minute hands, it seamlessly compliments the red gold circular case. The point of interest is the skeletonised, flying tourbillon complication based at 6 o’clock that runs at 60 second intervals.
A subtle yet striking complication is hard to come by in the era of maximalism, but H.Moser & Cie perform this feat perfectly. Fitted with the excellent HMC 804 automatic calibre, these luxury watches run at 21,600VpH and have a weekend-proof 72 hour power reserve.
Enough time for you to plan that last minute weekend getaway in Cannes or take it with you for that all important overseas business trip.
Placed astride a black alligator strap and a gold folding clasp, the timepieces are secured in with luxury in mind. We think you’d look sharp sporting a white jumper for the Christmas period, or a black overcoat to keep with the dark theme.
RETAIL PRICE
You can no longer buy a H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon as it’s been discontinued.
You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £16,500 as of December 2024.
2. Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A Samuel Ross
Ever since Hublot revolutionised the horological world in 1980 with the fusion of an 18K gold case with a rubber strap, the “Art Of Fusion” motto has remained true to this very day.
Source - Hublot
In their new venture, Hublot cemented a three year partnership with Samuel Ross by releasing the Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A and possibly releasing one of the best watches for men this year.
The case is crafted out of shiny micro blasted titanium and built in the gorgeous Big Bang design with four prominent edges on either side of the case and secured with six screws across the similarly titanium bezel.
READ MORE: What Are The Best Titanium Watches To Buy And Invest In 2024?
Locked in with a sapphire crystal that’s got anti-reflective treatment, the eyes are drawn into the entirely skeletonised dial face. Built onto a mesh sapphire background, the hour markers are made up of Rolex-style, luminous dots and grey, industrial hands that feature lume towards their ends.
As per Samuel Ross’s creative style, these watches are designed to harbour an industrial feel. The neon green rubber strap (not too dissimilar from the same sheen of their own Nespresso timepiece!) adds a tinge of colour. This is a sporty piece that suits a grey sports jacket or a dressed town T-shirt and jeans.
The dial boasts an automatic complication at 6 o’clock, again completely skeletonised to keep with the dial face of the watch. Powered by the HUB6035, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross offers a great power reserve of 72 hours and a construction of three sapphire bridges across the complication.
RETAIL PRICE
You can no longer buy a Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon as it’s been discontinued.
You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £120,000 as of December 2024.
3. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43mm Tourbillon Markus Bühler
IWC and Markus Bühler represent the Star Wars equivalent in the horological world. The once young Padawan, Markus Bühler is now a fully fledged, horological Jedi ever since being noticed during his IWC apprenticeship. In this case, Luke is certainly not his father.
Source - IWC
The original Big Pilot Markus Bühler was released in 2008 and now 15 years later, IWC have sought to reimagine the spectacular piece! The original watch closely followed the Big Pilot design, but with one big change.
The incredibly unorthodox aircraft turbine into the spring barrel…an obvious link to the history behind the “Big Pilot” collection.
Reimagined this year, the new models are capped to 51 pieces and built into a 43mm polished platinum case.
Fitted with a beautifully sleek black dial and highly legible, luminescent Arabic numerals with sword shaped hands, take note of the iconic luminescent triangle and two dots at either side of it at 12 o’clock.
At 6 o’clock, the turbine is included into a flying minute tourbillon, a fresh adaptation to the line for 2023. The complication is made from a titanium alloy to keep the weight down and each of the turbine blades are hand polished.
Made up of 56 parts, the Diamond Shell technology ensures this brand delivers one more time a range of highly accurate timepieces with minimal friction.
Powered by the Calibre 82905, it is supported by a Pellaton winding system that’s bolstered with ceramic components and capable of lasting for an outstanding 80 hours.
Placed onto a black Cordovan leather strap with none other than Bühler’s signature on the inside, we think these watches would look pin sharp with a grey peacoat or camel overcoat, depending on which special occasion you are attending
LEARN MORE: 17 Special Occasion Watches For Men - Cartier Santos, Panerai Luminor
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy an IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43mm when you enquire about a price as of December 2024.
4. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
The indomitable Glassbox Carrera design from TAG Heuer has endured for 60 years. And we have to give credence to this legendary timepiece and the Monaco that literally has Steve McQueens timekeeping paws all over it.
TAG Heuer has deemed it fair to release a reinterpretation of the Carrera for such a brilliant anniversary… With a spanking new tourbillon!
Source - TAG Heuer
Crafted at 42mm of fine-brushed and polished steel, the model negates a bezel to adopt a cleaner aesthetic. Who needs the sporty heritage of the Carrera Panamericana race anyway?
Furthemore, the caseback is screw down sapphire, exposing the tantalising innards of the watch in contrast to the industrial glory of the steel case.
The sapphire crystal is domed, allowing the minute track to be clearly defined against the periphery of the dial and the “Carrera Glassbox” style to live on.
The dial is a beautiful blue tone and opts for circular brushing in order to present the shine of the grey rimmed sub dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, plus the high speed tourbillon located at 6 o’clock with 33 stunning jewels.
The navy blue dial is fitted with steely hour markets and baton hands, all of which are given a healthy lease of lume. The jolts of colour come in the neon red seconds hand and a red marker on the flange behind each hour marker.
The 1 minute tourbillon situated at 6 o’clock is built in-house and powered by the Calibre TH20-09 calibre.
Operating at 28,800VpH, the watches movement powers the hours, minutes, chronograph functions including ¼ second, 30 minute counter and 12 hour counter, while there is a beautifully skeletonised complication at 6 o’clock
Offering a 65 hour power reserve and a high powered 28,800VpH, the COSC certified piece is prime for horophiles globally. Want to be king of the flexors?
Fitted on a blue calfskin leather strap, we recommend a blue cashmere jumper or burgundy polo shirt if you wish to keep in time with the second hand
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon for £20,950 as of December 2024.
5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon
If it's an effortlessly elegant, complication-crammed timepiece you want that’s a reminder of the speakeasy period, take a look at the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon.
FIND OUT MORE: Question Time: How Do I Sell My Jaeger-LeCoultre Watch?
And when you have JLC global ambassadors like Lenny Kravitz, Anya Taylor-Joy and Nicholas Hoult behind your brand, you know there’s going to be plenty of interest.
Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre
Released in 2023, this new model is an ode to the first ever release from the guys over at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Built in an exceptionally miniature 9.15mm pink gold case, the watches are both luxurious and sleek, allowing them to slip under shirt sleeves with ease.
If you know the history, you will know the infinitely dressy Reverso is built with durability in mind, as per its release for British soldiers who played Polo when stationed in India. Built with a reversible case to protect the fragile dials, they have tinkered with the design to achieve the same elegance, from front to back.
The dial is silvered with a sunray brushed face, allowing the pink gold dauphine hands and baton hour markers to stand out. The timepieces are fitted with a completely skeletonized tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
The other side runs a second time zone and a day and night indicator. Is there anything this model cannot do? Would be nice if it could tell us the Rolex price increases for 2024.
MORE ABOUT ROLEX: Chrono Hunter's Top Rolex Watches For Investment In 2024: The Essential Guide
The tourbillon is made of 62 components yet is still an exceptionally light 0.455 grams. Powered by the Calibre 847, the movement runs at 21,600VpH and offers a fairly weak power reserve of 38 hours.
That being said, all is not lost unlike some lucky gent who found a vintage Submariner 5513 on the seabed.
This manual wind movement does offer a lot of functions for a calibre constructed out of only 254 components. Fitted onto a black alligator strap, the timepieces are connected via a pink gold buckle and would look delightful with a black suit or brown suede jacket.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon when you request a price as of December 2024.
6. Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42mm Willy Breitling
The Breitling Premier collection has been ticking along nicely since its initial launch in 1943. Did you know the “Premier” title came from the French word, “first”?
Source - Breitling
Prided on its elegance and sporty allure, the Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon Willy Breitling is one of the more pricey variants, due to its precious metal build and its link with the incredible complication, namely the tourbillon.
DISCOVER MORE: The Top 12 Most Popular Breitling Watches For Men
Crafted out of platinum, the watches come in a whopping size of 42mm and are pretty thick at 15.2mm. This is especially when compared to Rolex GMT-Master II with a 12.4mm thickness or a Cartier Santos with a 8.83 case thickness.
However this is due to a number of factors which are essential to the style of the collection.
Made from platinum, the high quality circular casing boasts a brilliant sophisticated style and it goes even further with its polished finish that also appears on the bezel that is polished and rounded off with a screw in caseback, Capable of reaching 100 metres of water resistance horophiles can enjoy a direct view into the beautiful Breitling B21 movement.
The dial is a navy blue sheen with silvered Arabic numerals and syringe style hands that feature lume through its entire length. There is a 60-minute sub-dial situated at 6 o’clock that operates at 1/4th of a second.
Take a look at the tourbillon that resides at 12 o’clock. This is intentionally placed at the top in order to be the star of the horological show! Featuring a bridge that runs across its centre and finished with a jewel in its centre, the skeletonised complication comes in 18K gold, a strong contrast to the silver platinum.
The domed sapphire crystal is great for enhancing all of these features. Breitling linked with La Joux-Perret (a movement manufacturer) in order to manufacture the stunning B21 calibre which performed the unorthodox…linking the chronograph with a tourbillon.
Running at 28,800VpH, the model has a power reserve of 55 hours.
Fitted with an alligator leather strap, these watches are fixed in with an 18K white buckle meaning this piece would look beautiful with a charcoal tuxedo or slate overcoat for those colder morning commutes.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42mm Willy Breitling for £59,700 as of December 2024.
7. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked
Sure, Audemars Piguet are noted for the incredible Royal Oak collection. But let’s not miss out on the fantastic Code 11.59 collection. Relatively new to the horological world, the collection came in 2019 as a blank canvas for Audemars Piguet to work from.
READ MORE: The Top 12 Most Popular Audemars Piguet Watches For Men
Source - Audemars Piguet
Capped at 50 watches, you can get your hands on an Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked if you are quick! The design code follows the combination of a great 18K white gold feature with some matte blue ceramic aesthetics.
The use of the contrasting two tones is enough to get any time fiend sweating, especially when it’s the innovative ceramic material used with the luxurious precious metal.
The 41mm case is crafted out of ceramic that looks as azure coloured as the ocean, while the bezel and lugs are made out of white gold. This is a real impact watch if you are looking to buy an Audemars Piguet as a “made it” or statement piece.
The dial is entirely skeletonised giving an immaculate view, while it is given a blue CVD inner bezel with 60 minute graduations in white.
The hour and minute hands are crafted out of pink gold, serving to be instantly legible amongst the openness of the dial. Take note of the tourbillon which blends in perfectly with the dial, but keeps with the hands due to its few pink gold elements.
Powered by the Calibre 2948. Running at 21,600VpH and is entirely hand wound. Nothing like classic authenticity! Made up of 195 parts and razor thin at 3.7mm, the timepieces have a 72 hour power reserve.
Supported by a blue rubber-coated strap with an 18K white gold AP folding clasp, we can see you pulling this off with a navy suit shirt or a pure white suit if you want to pull out the big guns.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy an Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked when you request a price as of December 2024.
8. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon
Released during Watches and Wonders 2023, the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon is a fantastic adaption of the classical Traditionnelle collection, bolstered with a fresh green colour scheme.
Source - Vacheron Constantin
At 41mm, the new Vacheron Constantin models are made out of platinum, a high level precious metal with a stunning finish. The stereotypical dress timepiece circular case is given a fluted, layer build and supported with a fantastic dial that comes in an olive green dial.
To use such a strong colour is monumental for the typically reserved brand, especially since it’s on one of their more timeless collections. But colourful watches and more sought after rainbow versions from top major brands like Rolex and Zenith are riding the gravy train right to the horological top currently.
READ MORE: The 18 Best Rainbow Watches Fit For The Horological Trendsetter
So exactly how is the colour attained? This is thanks to galvanic treatment which allows for an unparalleled shine, alongside the platinum case.
The white gold baton hour markers and Dauphine style hands clearly stand out from the olive dial, but fit in with the platinum characteristics of the watch. At 6 o’clock, the centre piece is the tourbillon which features the signature “Maltese Cross” design. Talk about a signature!
Powered by the Calibre 2160/1, this watch is sized at 5.65mm and runs at 18,000VpH. Providing a superb 80 hour power reserve it is more than capable of running your weekend schedule and beyond.
Fitted on a green alligator leather strap the model is seamless, meaning you should also opt for a style that links in with the colour, such as a British Racing Green jersey or suit shirt. Or, let the timepiece stand out with a white T-shirt for a dress down feel.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon when you request a price as of December 2024.
9. Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5316/50P
Another new release from Watches and Wonders 2023? Go on then!
Source - Patek Philippe
Crafted from platinum, the new Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5316/50P has a beautiful metallized blue sapphire crystal dial that darkens into a blackened periphery.
Following the circular case, the bezel and lugs are polished, boasting a mirror effect throughout. And we know you want to look as glitzy as a red carpet premiere both inside and outside the boardroom.
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The dial shows sword-like hour markers not to mention sharp hour and minute hands. However, these aren't the only hands!
Boasting a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date hand, day, month and leap year in apertures, moon phases, small seconds and a minute repeater with two chiming gongs, you will be the walking-talking essence of Haute Horologie.
Look out for the tourbillon element that quietly sits at 6 o’clock behind the Moonphase complication.
The darkened crystal may perturb some of you, but it means all of these features are not lost within the skeletonised dial. The piece is powered by the R TO 27 PS QR movement, a 506 part beast that offers a 48 hour power reserve and a 21,400VpH.
Fitted with a dark blue calfskin leather strap with cream stitching and a platinum clasp, we think you’ll look sublime with this adorned alongside a navy jacket or a black suit.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5316/50P for £845,690 as of December 2024.
10. Grand Seiko Kodo
Grand Seiko are innovation wizards (as per their Spring Drive mechanism), so like to go one step further than your standard complications! Plus we cannot get enough off the endless conveyor belt of releases that have been happening since summer 2023.
READ MORE: Chrono Hunter's Hottest Picks Of The Best Summer Watches
Source - Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko released the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon at Watches and Wonders 2022, an achievement of its own accord as it represented the first mechanical complication piece from the brand. Not just a first for the Grand Seiko either.
The combination of a constant-force mechanism on the same axis as a tourbillon is the first in horological history.
Nicknamed Kodo which is Japanese for “Heartbeat”, this Grand Seiko watch gives a deliberately satisfying sound when it ticks, due to the brand carefully curating the noise in order to make this model a physical and an audible spectacle.
READ MORE: 18 Most Popular Grand Seiko Watches For Men At Every Price Point
Crafted out of Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy, Brilliant Hard Titanium, the watches are both lightweight and incredibly durable. Undergoing a Zaratsu polished finish which is well known in the community, the models offer a fantastic glean.
Given a skeletonised dial, the timepiece is given an off-centre dial which sits proudly at the top of the timepiece.
The constant-force tourbillon is placed at 6 o’clock, and works as one unit on one axis. The dial is surrounded by jewels across its entirety, adding tinges of colour to the shiny Brilliant Hard Titanium.
Given a 28,800VpH frequency and a 72 hour power reserve, the Calibre 9ST1 is manual winding and has a solid accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. While it may not touch Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification of -2/+2 seconds per day, it does beat Breitling’s COSC certified -4/+6 seconds a day.
Fitted with a brown calfskin strap with a platinum 950 three-fold clasp, the models are suited for the brown jacket gentleman who loves nothing more than brown, polished brogues for that understated charm.
RETAIL PRICE
Capped at only 20 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko Kodo for around £280,000 as of December 2024.
11. Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin
Chopard’s release of the L.U.C Flying T Twin shows that simple design and a powerful movement is all a horophile needs to fly sky high!
Source - Chopard
Crafted out of ethically sourced 18K white gold, the 40mm case is fairly slim at 7.20mm. While it offers a fairly dismal water-resistance of 30 metres, we aren’t too upset as we know the timepieces are designed as a dressy piece for the boardroom rather than the Seven Seas!
Undergoing a polished finish, the eyes are instantly drawn into the sumptuous navy blue dial. The main dial face is galvanically treated, allowing the hand guilloche finished centre to boast its honeycomb pattern.
On that front, you should have a look at the Omega Speedmaster Super Racing “Honeycomb” which has created a buzz with its Spirate system.
FIND OUT MORE: Top 12 Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch References To Buy This Year.
As the first watch to include a Spirate System that was released this year, the watch has a black sandwich dial that features a honeycomb pattern.
Back to Chopard and we particularly enjoy the fantastic rhodium plated Arabic numerals and chevron style hour-markers. Showcasing both optimal legibility and timeless style, glance down at 6 o’clock to see the flying tourbillon movement in all its glory.
The models are powered by the L.U.C 96.24-L, a fantastic self-winding movement that runs the complication alongside standard timekeeping functionality. Providing a 65 hour power reserve and a 25,200VpH, the calibre’s Côtes de Genève finish is visible through the sapphire back.
Certified by the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, the 189 calibre is a miniscule 3.30mm. Available on a blue alligator leather strap, we reckon this timepiece would suit a beige suede jacket or a chequered blue and white shirt. Come on, don’t be shy.
Get those sleeves rolled up!
RETAIL PRICE
Capped at 50 pieces, you can no longer buy a Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin as it’s sold out. It sells on the secondary market for around £100,000 as of December 2024.
12. A.Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon
Now who said the Germans were not punctual? Well, A.Lange & Söhne are actually pioneers of the tourbillon complication.
Source - A.Lange & Söhne
First showcased in 2008, they presented a patented stop-seconds mechanism that allows the tourbillon to be stopped at will and accurately set the model.
This specific variation features zero-reset time setting, allowing the timepieces to be simultaneously stopped and resetted to allow for maximum precision.
The watches are a very modern 39.5mm and given an average thickness of 11.1mm…even slinkier than Rolex Explorer II which has a thickness of 12.2mm or a Panerai Luminor Marina 15.65mm case thickness.
Crafted out polished 18K pink gold, the eyes are drawn instantly into the Argenté dial that's crafted entirely out of solid silver. Featuring black Arabic numerals and blued sword hands, this wouldn’t look out of place with a salt and pepper suit and a birchwood pipe!
However, this vintage classicism is modernised with a tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock that's entirely skeletonised and similarly features a singular blued hand.
LEARN MORE: 19 Best Vintage Watches To Buy Right Now - IWC Portugieser, Tudor Submariner
Powered by the L102.1 movement, the 262 component calibre is a manual wind and has the capability of running for 72 hours.
Fitted with a reddish-brown alligator leather strap, we see this timepiece fitted with a grey jumper and black jeans, or a more formal burgundy suit that would fit in with those festive vibes.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy an A.Lange & Söhne when you request a price as of December 2024.
13. Panerai Tourbillon GMT Bronzo
This Panerai Tourbillon Bronzo is the brand's first ever tourbillon to be fitted within a 45mm case. Released in 2023, it could swiftly be considered as one of the best tourbillon watches. Let us explain for a second.
Source - Panerai
Premiered in Panerai’s largest boutique to date (in New York’s Madison Avenue), The Panerai Tourbillon Bronzo is a titan of the brand. Crafted in a beautiful bronze case, this material has the capability to patina over a period of time, leading to an individual sheen that is dependent on how you use the model.
READ MORE: Everything You Need To Know Before You Sell Your Panerai
On that front, don’t be afraid about bringing this beast out into the rain. 100 metres of water resistance is more than capable of combating the wet British weather! The exterior is brushed, adhering to the rugged nature of the timepiece.
Surprisingly, the back is sapphire, allowing for a view into the fantastic P.2015/T calibre. This is quite uncommon as Panerai watches are prided for maximum durability.
However, when dealing with a skilled complication, Panerai knows it’s paramount to boast every detail, especially when the dial is entirely skeletonised.
The dial gives a deep green sheen, allowing the bronze hour markers to clearly stand out. Similarly lumed up as per the bronzed hands and indices, the GMT hand is given an arrow head to boast its visibility.
Take note of the unusual day and night display that is made up of a sub-dial located at 3 o’clock. The tourbillon is placed up high between 10 and 11 o’clock.
It is powered by the P.2015/T calibre. At 7.88mm thick, it comes fully equipped with 27 jewels, 256 components and protection provided by a Glucydur balance incorporating Incabloc anti-shock devices.
Firing on all cylinders at 28,800VpH, the watch offers a fantastic 4 day power reserve, great tourbillon and world time functionality.
Fitted with a chocolate brown calfskin leather strap, we recommend you style this out with a similarly tan leather jacket for that rebel edge, or a green overshirt and blue jeans for more informal occasions.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a Panerai Tourbillon GMT Bronzo for £119,500 as of December 2024.
14. Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges
The relationship between Girard-Perregaux and tourbillons is so out of this world it may give triple wrister Buzz Aldrin a run for his money.
Source - Girard-Perragaux
Stemming as far back as 1867, Girard-Perregaux released the Tourbillon With Three Gold Bridges and became a staple of Haute Horlogerie due to its incredible degree of complexity, and the incorporation of a tourbillon.
These watches are crafted out of pink gold in a 44mm case. Pretty thick at 15.52mm, the models have a water resistance of 30 metres.
Therefore, we would not advise to venture too deep into the azure coloured waters of Bali or The Bahamas with it on. The dial is entirely skeletonised, leaving a fantastic space for three bridges to visibly stretch across the face of the watch.
The bridges tend to be hidden, so this innovation is huge in the horological world. The bridges are similarly made of pink gold and individually chamfered in order to ensure the beauty of the novelties.
They seemingly float in mid-air because the box-shaped sapphire crystals on the front and back of the model offer enough spaces between the bridges.
Powered by the Calibre GP09400-1273, this is a self-winding mechanical movement that runs at 21,600VpH and boasts a power reserve of 60 hours. The tourbillon sits at 6 o’clock, supported with a jewel and connected directly onto a bridge.
Fitted with a black alligator leather strap and secured with a pink gold triple folding clasp, the models suit the refined gentleman who likes a black tie event.
RETAIL PRICE
You can no longer buy a Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges as it’s discontinued.
You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £100,000 as of December 2024.
15. Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel
As the oldest horological brand of all time, Blancpain has a lot of heritage when it comes to horology. However, it could be argued that alongside their influence on the dive world with their Fifty Fathoms collection, the Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel was one of their greatest innovations.
EXPLORE MORE: 63 Best Dive Watches For Serious Enthusiasts In 2024 - Omega, Rolex, Tudor
Source - Blancpain
Sized at 44.6mm, the red gold versions have a thickness of around 11.9mm with a between-lug distance of around 23mm. We do find these timepieces to be somewhat on the bulky side, but there is a sole purpose…to allow the incredible movement to naturally thrive.
Given a sapphire back, the models boast the calibre 2322. Given a mediocre water resistance of 30 metres, it is more about style over durability. We won’t hold it against Blancpain this time, as we cast our eyes over the stunning dial…
READ MORE: Are Blancpain Watches A Good Investment?
The minute ring is a white Grand Feu enamel, an extremely complex process that results in an incredible sheen throughout and allows the pink gold hour markers to be clearly pronounced. The real jewel is the tourbillon carousel that is entirely visible to the user.
The carousel is made up of two regulating organs, the tourbillon at 12 o’clock and a carousel situated at 6 o’clock. Both are fitted into brilliant flying cages that hover over the movement and are built onto ceramic ball bearings.
The calibre is completely visible so Blancpain opt for a variety of finishes such as anglages and flinqué patterns. Offering a mind blowing 168 hour power reserve and a 21,600VpH, the 379 component timepiece is ‘the perfect addition to any collection.
Fitted onto a dark brown alligator leather strap, they are perfect for the discerning gentleman who likes a black shirt, white chinos and boating shoes when he’s heading out on his superyacht.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel for £333,400 as of December 2024.
16. Omega De Ville Tourbillon
Omega’s set a record with this as the first ever manual winding central tourbillon to be Master Chronometer certified. Take that Rolex.
Source - Omega
Omega’s De Ville Tourbillon is crafted within an 18K Sedna gold and 18K Canopus gold case. Sedna gold was created in 2012 by Omega as an alternative to standard gold.
Offering a high resistance due to its combination with copper and palladium, the material is named after Sedna, the reddest planet in the solar system. And definitely not Neptune.
Canopus gold is a white gold that's been in operation since 2015. 100% noble, the material is named after Canopus, a bright star that's 71 times bigger and 10,000 brighter than the sun.
But one aspect that shines bright is the dial which is finished in black PVD and features a sun-brushed aesthetic, allowing the polished pink gold hours and hands to clearly stand out. The 18K Sedna gold polished seconds hand is set into the titanium bridge over the complication.
The complication is literally the centre piece as it’s made into the middle of the dial. Powered by the 2640 calibre that's visible through the sapphire caseback, the Omega De Ville Tourbillon benefits from a 15,000 gauss magnetic resistance with a 72 hour power reserve.
Master chronometer certified, timepieces don’t get much more precise and reliable than this! Perhaps a vintage Zenith Daytona.
Fitted onto a black alligator leather strap, the models are locked in with a Sedna gold and Canopus gold buckle. For timekeeping fashion conscious gents we recommend a grey suit jacket and a white suit shirt for the laid back look.
RETAIL PRICE
You can no longer buy an Omega De Ville Tourbillon as it’s been discontinued.
You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £125,000 as of December 2024.
17. Zenith Defy Fusée Tourbillon
Zenith have chosen to take the classical fusée-and-chain escapement and the tourbillon complication…then light them up with a zest of innovation.
Source - Zenith
At 45mm, these watches are crafted out of carbon fibre, just like those F1 cars you see racing around from your private box.
Offering 100 metres of water resistance, the casing is exceptionally avant-garde and offers modernity to surround the old school fusée-and-chain escapement alongside the tourbillon complication.
The dial is entirely skeletonised, showcasing the similarly openworked calibre. To break it down, the complication has its carriage based at 6 o’clock. The carriage itself makes one turn per minute.
The hours and minutes are based in the centre of the dial, while the power reserve indicator is situated between 4 and 5 o’clock and the Fusée-chain transmission is linked in with the barrel.
The calibre is powered by the El Primero movement that’s made up of an incredible 807 components. Running at 36,000VpH, the watches offer a 50 hour power reserve and showcase a fresh take on the classical tourbillon and fusée-and-chain mechanisms.
Fitted with a black rubber and black condura effect strap, we can expect you to flex this with a navy bomber jacket when you’re out on the grandstand, or a black T-shirt when you are looking to take the weight off.
RETAIL PRICE
You can no longer buy a Zenith Defy Fusee Tourbillon as it’s been discontinued.
You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £80,000 as of December 2024.
18. Richard Mille RM 38-02
Golfing pro, Bubba Watson and Richard Mille stretch back like one of his immense drives to 2011 when they first released the RM 038.
Just one year before, Watson went on to win the US Masters for the first time, all while wearing a white Richard Mille RM 038. This variation was released in 2022 with a fantastic emphasis on shock resistance and toughness…prime for a phenomenal golfer pounding down the fairways.
Source - Richard Mille
The RM 38-02 is the fourth model from the collection linked with Bubba Watson. The case is designed in a tripartite build and constructed from Quartz TPT. The bezel and the caseback is built from white and pink Quartz TPT while the caseband is made up of Carbon TPT and pink Quartz TPT layers.
Everything about this piece is built with force limiting in mind. Supported with a torque limiting crown that prevents overwinding to release the barrel spring of excess harm, the baseplate is made of carbon TPT that’s exceptionally light and the bridges are made from grade 5 titanium. Classic Richard Mille!
Richard Mille’s horological boffins found that a golf ball follows an acceleration of around 50,000gs. Richard Mille’s RM 38-02 is in fact capable of withstanding shocks no less than 10,000gs which is incredible given the tiny, 9.19mm thick calibre.
The entire dial is skeletonised, showcasing the Calibre RM38-02 in all its glory. Boasting a manual winding calibre with hours and minutes, they are supported by Glucydur balance, a Nivarox Elinvar balance spring and a KIF Elastor KE 160 B28 shock protector.
Running at 21,600VpH and offering a power reserve of around 70 hours, the white rubber strap is ideally ergonomic on the wrist. This is a lovely sporty piece that would look excellent with a black sports jacket or a pair of hard wearing boots for when you’re galavanting around the countryside!
RETAIL PRICE
Capped at 50 pieces, you can no longer buy a Richard Mille RM 38-02 as it’s sold out.
You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £1.9 million as of December 2024.
19. Drive De Cartier Flying Tourbillon Watch
The Drive De Cartier Flying Tourbillon is one of Cartier’s bulkier watches, but it still with a ton of elegance and charm.
Source - Cartier
Sized up at 47mm, these luxury watches are crafted out of rose gold in a cushion shape. The crown is incredibly unique, designed with a faceted shaping and topped with a sapphire cabochon.
It boasts a white galvanised guilloche dial a silvered openwork satin-finish grid and a gorgeous sunray effect. The hour markers are made of large black Roman Numerals which are incredibly prominent on the dial face.
The Cartier hands are crafted out of steel and blued sword shaped. The flying tourbillon complication rests at 6 o’clock and is entirely openworked while the seconds are indicated by a C-shaped carriage.
Powered by the 9452 MC calibre, the Drive De Cartier Flying Tourbillon is made up of 142 components. The calibre features 19 jewels and is sized up at 24.9mm. Running at 21,600 VpH, it has a power reserve of 50 hours which is more than enough to cope with anything your weekend throws at you.
The Cartier pieces have been certified by The Poinçon de Genève, a body that ensures these watches are high performance and have exceptional technical skill.
Available on a brown alligator leather strap, it allows this timepiece to be worn with a brown suede jacket or a black suit jacket if you are heading into the boardroom.
RETAIL PRICE
You can buy a Cartier Flying Tourbillon for £72,500 as of December 2024.
Conclusion
So, we’ve saved you the headache and time of finding the best tourbillon watches. While these types of complications are notoriously expensive due to their complexity and links with luxury, budget and style, we can guarantee that there is a timepiece on this list that will have your own gears turning quickly.
Choosing a piece of this nature is complex for the most ardent of connoisseurs.
This is why Chrono Hunter has done you the service of choosing such a vast array of highly respected timepieces. From the Master Chronometer status of the Omega De Ville to the sporting Richard Mille RM 38-02, you may even find yourself swept away by the Japanese-imbued Grand Seiko Kodo.
Take a load off for a minute. Why not spend a few more precious moments reading up on the world that you love so much?
Please accept our deepest thanks for spending your lunch breaks, commutes or flights with us and most importantly reading our guide to the best tourbillon watches. You won’t be disappointed.
On that note… if you are looking to purchase either pre-owned or new with one of the most popular complications around, have you discovered the ideal source yet where you can buy such a timepiece with peerless service, quick turnaround and multiple offers?
Hang on a tick and we shall explain below…until next time.
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Further Reading:
10 Of The Best Luxury Watch Events Globally For Dedicated Enthusiasts & Collectors
9 Grail Models You Should Start Collecting Today
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