18 BEST PILOT WATCHES FOR THE AVIATION ENTHUSIAST
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18 BEST PILOT WATCHES FOR THE AVIATION ENTHUSIAST

Birds flying high, you know what I mean… ‘ Before we start kicking back with old crooner, Michael Bublé, we think that you should soar with us like an eagle and uncover the best pilot watches for every discerning horophile and wallet.

Whether you like the complexity of the pieces, looking to give airtime to your collection or just have an insatiable itch for aviation, this list is a must-read! We’ll take you on a horological journey like never before, putting you firmly in the cockpit. 

We will cover a lot of high-powered brands.

So, whether it’s the sexy slide rule bezel on the Breitling Navitimer, the sensational Bell & Ross with it’s ultra complex, instrument inspired BR-03 Horizon, or the fresh green shades of the Blancpain Air Command 36mm, there’s a thing that all these beauties have in common.

These are some of the best pilot watches through and through!

Wait a second. Prior to us exposing the precious details and catapulting you on the way to buying this type of watch, we should first cover a few important questions. 

Goggles on…

 

What Is The Difference Between A Field Watch And A Pilot Watch?

The main differences between a field model and a navigator timepiece comes down to functionality and utility. 

Aviation watches are designed to allow navigators a useful accompaniment when in flight. For example, features like GMT, chronographs and the ability to read two time zones are essential for the man who is looking to travel between different areas worldwide.

Or those busy office execs liaising with colleagues in different global offices. 

FUN FACT: The first pilot watches were made in 1904 under Louis Cartier, wherein he made the first wrist-worn timepiece for his Brazilian friend and aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont. 

Field watches are mostly known for their functional designs that feature legible faces with large numerals. They were originally made to suit soldiers in World War I. Now, they are more commonly associated with those interested in outdoor ventures and everyday wear. 

What Is Special About A Pilot Watch?

Quite a bit now you come to mention it.

Aviation watches are noticeably different for a variety of reasons. While most models offer solid legibility, accuracy with high contrast hour markers and hands, aviator models offer dual time and GMT capabilities, allowing them to measure two time zones. 

In some instances, this may be paired with chronograph functionality, offering multi-purpose elements, giving aviators the ability to measure elapsed time. From a 24 hour scale on the bezel to an extra GMT, the models are fantastic additions to the travelling man’s arsenal. 

Is A Chronograph A Pilot Watch?

Not to a certain degree.

When we ask if a chronograph is an essential part of a navigators watch, it is not in itself a “pilots watch” per se. It is typically defined by timepieces with the capability to measure multiple time zones with a 24 hour scale and added GMT hand. 

Chronograph complications are very useful as they can measure fuel consumption alongside calculating speed and distance via the sub-counters. Plus, if the 24 hour scale is on the flange, a tachymetric scale on the bezel can read speed easily. 

Who Wears Pilot Watches?

In today’s fast paced timekeeping world many flex these types of watches. 

Gone are the days when aviation watches were locked to the wrists of those flying jumbo jets like the GMT Master II, specifically designed for PAN-AM Airlines!

While they are essential tools for aviators due to their dual time zone readability and precision, the models are now used by travellers who equally want to read home and away times..at the flick of a wrist. 

However, if you are just an enthusiast who wants the pleasure of wearing a model that is bubbling with complexity, we reckon that these pieces are oozing with flex appeal.

What Are The Benefits Of Pilot Watches?

There are a number of advantages behind wearing an aviation watch. 

If you are a man jetting from country to country, the dual time capability, provided by the added GMT hand and 24 hour scale, are essential features to keep you abreast of local and away time. 

Furthermore, due to the importance of accuracy when it comes to keeping time, the models offer optimal precision which means you will rarely have to make adjustments.

That is if you choose any of the stunning pieces on our expansive list! Let’s stop there for a second. Shall we get into the best pilot watches to wear this year? 

It’s all systems go!

 

1. Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified

Diameter

40.85mm

Case Material

Steel

Power Reserve

60 hours

Thickness

N/A

Price

Unfortunately, we are not yet in the know about when you can buy an Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified, as it’s currently only exclusive to US Military Pilots. 

 

What on earth are we thinking? Let us enlighten you for a second. 

The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified is one of those leaked releases that came as a total surprise. Sort of like that cheeky Patek Philippe Cubitus, finally showcased at a private event in Munich in October 2024, right?

And unlike those never ending girth of Moonswatch releases, this one has certainly gone under the radar.

But we are here to uncover secrets that Tales of The Crypt cannot keep…

 

Source - Omega Forums

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When we first heard of the Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified watches, it’s understood that they are only available to the US Army, US Navy and US Air Force. Apparently, to get your hands on one of these sumptuous models, you need to prove that you are an aviator or navigator. 

Best get your flight licence out, boys!

Coming in at an estimated 40.85mm with a steel case, they appear on the surface to resemble the spawn of those classic Flightmaster models, produced between 1969 and 1972.

As a variant of the Speedmaster, these watches were created solely for navigators, as opposed to the lunar-loving Speedmaster Moonwatch, the first watch on the moon in 1969. 

Later Flightmaster models evolved into the Speedmaster Professional X-33. For the original models, they were typically made up of colourful subdials and neon seconds hands for maximum legibility. Lucky for us, this has continued onto these secretive Speedmaster Flight Qualified models!

Across the top is a base 1000 tachymetric scale, allowing aviators to quickly measure fuel consumption and distance to landing.

Against the black, granular dial centre, there are two prominent subdials, covering a small seconds and 12 hour counter, with the 12 hour counter using orange accents, and the small seconds counter with yellow tinges on the hand and inner ring. 

Time is seamlessly read via the luminescent baton hour markers, alongside the sword shaped hands and neon orange tipped chronograph seconds hand.

Finalised with a neat date aperture at 6 o’clock, they are super efficient and one of the best pilot watches we’ve seen in a while! Especially from such a brand connected with all things lunar.

Expect sensational accuracy via the Calibre 9900 (or an altered version of it!). Master Chronometer certified, 54 jewels, rapid beat of 28,800VpH and a respectable power reserve of 60 hours.

What We Like

  • Exciting dial with neon colouring
  • Modern interpretation of classic Flight Watch
  • Simple monochrome aesthetic to allow colour to shine.

What We Don’t Like

  • Only tip of the second hand is neon as opposed to the entire arm in the predecessor.
  • Could have made it more personalised for the US Military on the front of the dial.

 

2. Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer

Diameter

43mm

Material

Titanium

Power Reserve

72 hours

Thickness

13.30mm

Price

You can buy a Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer at retail for £4,600 as of November 2024. 

The Longines Pilot Majetek is something that is very close to our hearts. Heck, we even wrote an article about the 2023 Majetek release (alongside a few other beauties like the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum).

Source - Longines

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But, now we are looking at the Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer which is a potential frontrunner in the race for front row on our best pilot watches grid. 

The original Majetek variant was released for the Czecholslovakian Air Force back in the 1930s. Soon becoming a highly desirable navigator's watch, the models have since evolved into desirable, vintage inspired timepieces for the modern horophile looking to add a retro vibe to his wardrobe. 

At 43mm x 13.30mm, the titanium pieces do away with stainless steel for something that's stronger and lighter. The pieces are not small. Now the bi-directional bezel is a big thing to look at with its serrated outlay and prominent crown guards that would give King Charles III a run for his money. 

For such a sacrifice, we are treated to 100 metres of water resistance. For a pilot watch, this is a good figure, especially since it allows you to turn this into an everyday model as opposed to a one-trick pony for that last minute run to the departure gate. 

For the face, this comes in a simple yet effective black grained shade. Fitted with silver applied Arabic numerals and sword shaped hands, they are all coated with Super-Luminova, offering exceptional legibility. 

The outer white minute ring on the periphery allows for specific time keeping, while the sub-counter at 6 o’clock is a simple small seconds reader, again, for maximum accuracy. Inside of the timepieces beats the reliable, automatic L893.6 calibre. 

The 25,200VpH alongside the weekend-proof 72 hour power reserve allows for accuracy, longevity and quality over time with the addition of a silicon balance spring welcomed, to deter magnetism. 

What We Like

  • Durable titanium composition
  • Solid water resistance
  • Excellent legibility

What We Don’t Like

  • Bulky case
  • Not ideal for anything outside of sporty/aviation activities.

 

3. Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

Diameter

43.5mm

Case Material

Platinum

Power Reserve

38 hours

Thickness

7.3mm

Price

Capped at 200 pieces, you can buy a Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind at retail when you enquire about a price as of November 2024. 

 

Fancy a throwback to the very first pilot watch? 

Allow us to give you a very quick tour around the storied Cartier Santos-Dumont collection. It may not look and have the feel of such a novelty but we must give props to one of the original greats.

Source - Cartier

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Louis Cartier was tasked by best-friend and keen aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont, to create a model that he could seamlessly wear on his wrist, ensuring he could easily glance at the time during flight. 

So, Monsieur Cartier produced the stunning Santos Dumont in 1904, resulting in the very first model and definitely one of the very best pilot watches of its era… by default! However, this acclaim has continued, following the exceptionally entertaining Watches and Wonders 2024 event. 

Step forward the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind. 

Crafted out of platinum, users are treated to the emblematic, square 43.5mm x 7.3mm case. For clarity, this is exceptionally thin, defeating slender titans like the fresh Rolex 1908 Platinum at 9.50mm thickness, and Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G in white gold at 8.08mm.

So, incredibly luxurious with the platinum material and perfectly sized to not get caught on your luggage… This is definitely an aviation number we can get down with.

On the side of the case is an edged crown with ruby cabochon. Given an equally red,  moody burgundy face, this is presented with large, silvery Arabic numerals and a simple white minute track on the periphery. Crafted out of carnelian, this dial is certainly one for the horological history books.

Interestingly, the piece's hour markers run… backwards? We don’t need Craig David to explain this captivating piece. As per the rewind nickname of the models, this inverted novelty is a fashionable play on conventional timekeeping and definitely a stylish number for the enigmatic, colourful gentleman. 

This is all powered by the Calibre 230 MC, providing a steady 21,600VpH alongside a reliable 38 hour power reserve. 

What We Like

  • Modern, inverse face
  • Unique platinum material
  • Ultra-slim case

What We Don’t Like

  • Not the most durable
  • Not the best choice for everyday wear

 

4. Patek Philippe Grand Complications Alarm Travel Time 5520RG

Diameter

42.2mm

Case Material

Rose gold

Power Reserve

52 hours

Thickness

11.6mm

Price

You can buy a Patek Philippe Alarm Time Travel Time 5520RG at retail for £222,020 as of November 2024. 

As the Boo Radleys declared in 1995, wake up it’s a beautiful morning.

What are we referring to exactly? The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time of course. This majestic combination of travel time functionality and 24-hour alarm is the epitome of navigator watches. 

First spotted back in the 1930s under the watchful eyes of Patek Philippe and Louis Cottier, the reference 1415 was released, resulting in the world's first World Time mechanism, and first ever Heure Universelle from Patek Philippe.

Source - Patek Philippe

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Let’s skip just under 100 years to 2024, whereby Patek Philippe has rocked the horological world (again) with a thrilling interpretation of the Alarm Travel Time. You thought we were waxing lyrical about Cubitus!

Its average 42.2mm case diameter works well with the slender 11.6mm thickness. Of course, the 30 metres of water resistance is not great, but indicates that this rose gold timepiece is a prime model to flaunt from boardroom to date night.

Polished throughout, from tapered lugs to the slim bezel, the 4 crown aesthetic is both emblematic and functional due to the plethora of features within the models. For the face, the theme is understated legibility and the outcome is… truly sensual.

The sunburst finish promotes the beige-grey shade, serving to highlight the timekeeping functions. Be it the large Arabic numerals to the oversized sword shaped hands, they all have a thick coating of light green luminescence through their centre.

After all, those private jet, overnight trips can really get dark when up in the sky!

Furthermore, users will be glad to note the alarm time window under 12 o’clock, presented in a rose gold rectangular box and split into hours and minutes, indicating the time for when you want the alarm to sound. 

Those interested in sourcing the best pilot watches will be more than happy with the bottom portion of the dial. The sub-counter at 6 o’clock relates to the date via a black ring and central hand pointing to each legible numeral.

On the left and right of the sub-counter is a useful home and local indicator that suggests whether it’s day or night in each respective time zone. Speaking of time zones, have you noticed that very subtle, grey skeletonised hand in the centre of the face? 

This covers the “local time” and is altered via the pushers on the left of the case (indicated with a plus or minus sign) in one hour increments…forwards or backwards.

Inside the models pulsates the highly reliable AL 30-660 S C FUS, totalling 574 parts. Offering a 28,800VpH and a 52 hour power reserve, we think they are ultra-precise and ensure maximum accuracy. 

What We Like

What We Don’t Like

  • Slightly busy face for some.
  • May be overwhelming to use when in flight

 

5. Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon

Diameter

41mm

Case Material

Black ceramic

Power Reserve

54 hours

Thickness

10.6mm

Price

You can buy a Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon at retail for £3,990 as of November 2024. 

Ah the King of the dashboard instruments.

If you find yourself sky-high and someone screams “The pilots fainted, we need someone to take over!”, you will be very glad to have the Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon strapped on your wrist. 

No wonder their strapline is from cockpit to wrist. 

Source - Bell & Ross

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The Horizon line first saw the light back in 2012 under the BR-01 collection, alongside an arsenal of equally functional pieces such as the Altimeter and Turn Coordinator. 

If you remember, these are explicitly pilot friendly, with turn coordinators traditionally being defined as flight instruments that help aviators measure their turns. Meanwhile, Altimeter’s are used to measure the altitude of an object over the sea or land. Basically, all tools essential to the industry!

So, why should we care about the latest 2024 BR-03 Horizon? Easy, let’s find out!

The Bell & Ross Horizon is crafted out of micro-blasted black ceramic. Pertaining to the uber-durability and lightness of the material, ceramic is both shock and scratch resistant, allowing you to flaunt this either with a pitch black suit, or when out on your country jaunts.

Totalling 41mm x 10.6mm in the iconic round in a square case, the pieces are not thick or obtrusive on your wrist, yet the 100 metres of water resistance suggests a timepiece that battles against some elements, whether sipping martinis pool-side or flying first class to Barbados. 

For the face, we have an image influenced by the horizon. That probably explains the title for pete’s sake! The split face, from the light blue sky to the pitch black ground, relates to the perspective of the pilot in terms of the plane's positioning to the horizon.

This is equated in terms of the plane's tilt forwards and backwards as well as the side to side tilt. 

Wait a minute.

We haven’t seen a timepiece so specifically geared to the aviation industry since the original Rolex GMT-Master back in the 50s. One of the best pilot watches to grace the scene?

Especially since the orange decal in the centre of the dial so perfectly mimics the artificial horizon display of the classic Altitude indicator tool in planes. 

Beneath the sapphire crystal lies a black outer ring that covers a white minute track and the white baton hour markers. The black triangle displayed on the face refers to the hour indicator, the white hand covers the minutes with the white and black dotted hand covering the running seconds. 

Home to the reliable BR-CAL.327, this automatic movement offers a 54 hour power reserve and ensures all the functions run smoothly. 

What We Like

  • Affordable pricing
  • Bespoke purpose for pilots
  • Unorthodox material choice

What We Don’t Like

  • Not most efficient for everyday wear
  • Contentious square case that may separate those with a fondness for round watches.

 

6. Longines Spirit Zulu Time

Diameter

39mm

Case Material

Titanium

Power Reserve

72 hours

Thickness

13.50mm

Price

You can buy a Longines Spirit Zulu Time at retail for £3,900 as of November 2024. 

We can talk about the best pilot watches till the cows come home. 

But to not mention the influence of the Longines Spirit Flyback would be like talking about the world's greatest basketballers…and not mentioning LeBron James

Source - Longines

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The Longines Spirit Zulu Time harks back to 1925 where it saw the brand’s first venture into the dual-time zone model arena. But the calling card of these specific timepieces was the prominent “Z” letter on the face. This covers the universal time for all aviators since Z stands for Zulu, and it relates to Coordinated Universal Time.

As the instrument used by every manner of iconic pilot from Amelia Earhart (first woman to undertake a solo flight in 1932) to Charles Lindbergh (innovator of the hour angle watch), the Longines Spirit line is a celebration of their aviation heritage. 

If we fast forward time, it’s only fair that we cover the sublime Longines Spirit Zulu Time, and how they can take a pilot's model to altogether new heights.

The 39mm x 13.50mm titanium case is super lightweight and durable, offering prime scratch resistance alongside a fabulous lustre. Longines choose a combined polished and brushed finish along the lugs and case to get the horophiles' heart rate up. 

Along the top is a stainless steel bezel. The black ceramic insert features an engraved, 24-hour scale, allowing you to easily read multiple time zones with the added, red-arrow tipped GMT hand.

Multi-purpose and destined for adventure seekers or travellers, the importance of being able to measure two time zones cannot be overstated! 

The face is matte black which allows the yellow gold Arabic numerals and golden hands to stand out. Filled with Luminova, this luxurious addition is stylish, and suits the gent looking to buy a watch fit for the office or private plane. 

The complementing red ZULU TIME text and 5 star emblem relates to the Chronometer certification of the pieces, and the aviation past of the models. Inside the models resides the L844.4 calibre, offering COSC certification, 25,200 VpH and a 72 hour power reserve. Home or away, this model can last you a lifetime!

What We Like

  • Distinctive Longines Zulu reference
  • Excellent material choice
  • Minimalist, legible face

What We Don’t Like

  • Could make more of the Zulu legacy
  • Quite a thick case for such a small diameter

 

7. Blancpain Air Command 42mm - Green

Diameter

42.50mm

Case Material

Titanium

Power Reserve

50 hours

Thickness

13.7mm

Price

Capped at 200 pieces, you can buy a Blancpain Air Command 42mm - Green at retail for £20,400 as of November 2024. 

Do you want to learn to fly like the Foo Fighters? Want to demonstrate your superior aviation knowledge? Easy answer, go for the brand that released the first modern dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms!

Source - Blancpain

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On a serious note, the Air Command from Blancpain is one of the rarest lines from the brand. First seen in the 1950s following the US Air Force looking for a high-precision chronograph, Blancpain had already won them over with the Fifty Fathoms line that was strapped onto the American Navy. 

The Air Command was presented to American military pilots via legendary distributor Allen V. Tornek. First presented as prototypes, the pieces were exceptionally limited and ultra-rare on the secondary market.

Luckily, 2024 has seen a modernised variation of the line, befitted with a legible face and a new, on-trend colour…

With a case diameter of 42.50mm and a thickness of 13.7mm, the models are pretty big, but designed to still be incredibly ergonomic on the wrist. This is primarily due to the grade 23 titanium makeup that is ultra-light and exceptionally durable.

Typically seen in the medical and aerospace industries, the material is the optimal choice for longevity and maximum lustre. 

Along the top is a stainless steel bezel with black ceramic insert. Presenting an inverse 60-minute scale, the markers are luminous, meaning you can quickly measure elapsed time in all conditions. 

For the face, the new green accent is exciting as it represents Blancpain’s turn to the world of colourful pieces. However, it’s not a neon shade, rather it is a low-key dark green that allows the luminous Arabic numerals and hands to stand out.

Given a tachymetric scale on the periphery (as per the vintage Blancpain pieces), the models dual sub-counter display at 3 and 9 o’clock covers chronograph functionality, ensuring these pieces are one of the best pilot watches from this Maison.

It will be your best friend in quickly measuring elapsed time. Who would have thought this from a company under the Swatch Group. Inside the models, you will find the Calibre F388B. 

Fitted with a silicon balance spring and integrated flyback movement with column wheel and vertical clutch, we are treated to a rapid 5Hz alongside a 50 hour power reserve. 

What We Like

  • Exceptionally rare grade 23 titanium
  • Invigorating green shade
  • Easy to read chronograph and tachymetric scale 

What We Don’t Like

  • Oversized on the wrist
  • Nothing groundbreaking in contrast to other Air Command models

 

8. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille

Diameter

40mm

Case Material

Titanium

Power Reserve

120 hours

Thickness

10.6mm

Price

Capped at 250 pieces, you can buy an IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille at retail for £6,300 as of November 2024. 

You regular readers of Chrono Hunter’s articles over on our Chronicles page will know that we have previously touched on the sensational Mark XX from IWC. If not, take a look at that feature here!

Source - IWC

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For a brief background, the Mark XX line from the Swiss brand was inspired by the Mark 11 model that was fitted with the British Royal Air Force back in 1948. Known for its legibility, strong calibre and clean aesthetics, the line has become a go-to piece from their portfolio. 

However, for this model, we see an ode to the Patrouille Suisse, the Swiss Air Force aerobatic team. They have been in partnership with Patrouille since 1994, meaning we are celebrating 30 years of the link-up. We tip our timekeeping hat.

So, just how good is the IWC Pilot Watch Mark XX Patrouille in titanium and why should you care? Well, we can say that this has quickly become one of the best pilot watches, even though it was only released in August 2024!

Measuring 40mm x 10.6mm, the pieces are crafted out of this popular material, across the bezel, case, solid caseback and the crown. For the caseback, this is displayed with a “Tribute To Patrouille Suisse”, alongside a triple aeroplane emblem. 

Offering 100 metres of water resistance, we don’t expect that you will be flexing this in any proximity to water, but it’s comforting to know it can take the hits of a crashing Mediterranean wave. 

For the dial, the slate grey sunburst face, allows the white printed Arabic numerals to stand out, alongside the black, lume filled sword shaped hands.

There is a date aperture at 3 o’clock for added functionality, alongside a red tipped seconds hand that points to the white minute track on the periphery. 

Home to the sublime Calibre 3211, although the 4Hz indicates the speed of the models, the sensational 120 hour power reserve is a great indicator of the piece's longevity. That’s five days in old money. 

What We Like

  • Solid titanium construction.
  • Link to long-standing partnership with Patrouille Suisse
  • Reliable 100 metres of water resistance and strong 120 hour power reserve

What We Don’t Like

  • Not an over exciting dial in our view
  • Needs more aviation features for today’s modern wearer

 

9. Longines Spirit Flyback 

Diameter

42mm

Case Material

Stainless steel and yellow gold

Power Reserve

68 hours

Thickness

17mm

Price

You can buy a Longines Spirit Flyback at retail for £5,900 as of November 2024. 

The Longines Spirit Flyback is the sum total of all of Longines greatest air-bourne achievements. 

Source - Longines

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As the provider of instruments for many of aviations greatest achievements throughout the 1920s and 30s, like supplying instruments to aviator Elinor Smith as she set a women's world record for height in 1931, and working with Walter Mittelholzer to become the first to fly over Mount Kilimanjaro in 1930. 

So, what does the sterling Longines Spirit Flyback have in store for us?

Small-timepiece purists, please turn away for a split-second. The models come in at 42mm x 17mm of two-tone yellow gold and stainless steel. Yes, this is exceptionally thick, even topping the prominent dive watch, the Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 with a thickness of 15mm.

Yep, maybe a statement piece for the boardroom, or an ideal accompaniment for that business flight. It doesn’t quite make our best dress watches list!

However, the 100 metres of water resistance indicates a timepiece that is prominent and easily flexed when doing light swimming or water sports. And you can certainly make a splash with this.

On the bi-directional bezel, this has a black ceramic insert that allows the yellow gold markers to clearly stand out, alongside a yellow gold ridged edge for easy manipulation. 

The majority of the case is stainless steel, but the yellow gold pops on the pushers, crown and bezel are wonderfully presented, while enhancing the luxury of the models. 

For the dial, we are treated to a soft, graduated green dial. This means a black periphery that progresses into a dark green centre. In turn, the vintage radium, luminova filled yellow gold Arabic numerals and hands stand out, working well with the gold edged, dual chronograph sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, and the 5 star emblem above 6 o’clock. 

Chronometer certified, the models are guaranteed to offer precision. Inside, discover the L791.4 automatic movement which has a 28,800VpH alongside a 68 hour power reserve, and uses a silicon balance spring to combat magnetism.

What We Like

  • Nice retro luminova
  • Affordable way to buy a precious metal piece
  • Chronometer certified

What We Don’t Like

  • Too thick for modern wearer
  • Could be slightly gaudy for the refined outfit

 

10. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Automatic Blue Boutique

Diameter

42.5mm

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Power Reserve

60 hours

Thickness

14.3mm

Price

You can buy a Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Automatic Blue Boutique at retail for £10,700 as of November 2024. 

The Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Automatic Blue Boutique is a heck of a mouthful to try and say over a glass of Bollinger and smoked salmon canapes.

Nonetheless, it is one heck of a timepiece and we only need a short answer to reveal why it’s on our rundown of the best pilot watches!

Source - Zenith

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At 42.5mm x 14.3mm, the dimensions are pretty big, especially since the models are made out of stainless steel. As you will soon realise, this is due to a pretty powerful movement beating within, sitting alongside the dial needing to house a lot of features. 

From the two pushers on either side of the crown, its tapered lugs and the smooth, circular bezel on the top, the piece is very refined and aesthetically pleasing to the modern wearer looking for an everyday flexer. The 100 metres of water resistance is not bad either!

On to the dial and we are treated to a navy blue shade displayed against a corrugated backdrop. These slender, barrel shaped ridges are a timeless addition to the line, with the Arabic hour markers and sword shaped hands resonating ultra-legibility. 

Fitted with a big date aperture at 6 o’clock, and dual chronograph sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, the watches could easily end up looking a little cramped. However, Zenith opt to structure the face in a legible way, allowing each feature to be read fuss-free. 

What makes all of these functions move so swiftly? The sensational El Primero 3652! As a part of the great El Primero lineage. The first automatic chronograph calibre ever made in 1969, this reference offers a rapid 36,000VpH alongside a 60 hour power reserve. 

As aviation watches go, the flyback function is essential for allowing measurements to be timed without completely stopping the chronograph feature. Perfect for measuring each leg of a flight. Who needs the Mile High Club when you can flex this?

What We Like

  • Legendary El Primero movement
  • Classic corrugated face
  • Low-key blue aesthetic

What We Don’t Like

  • Quite large with a 14mm thickness
  • Busy dial can be hard to instantly read.

 

11. Bell & Ross BR 03 White

Diameter

41mm

Case Material

Stainless steel and rose gold

Power Reserve

54 hours

Thickness

9.4mm

Price

You can buy a Bell & Ross BR 03 White at retail for £6,000 as of November 2024. 

The Bell & Ross BR 03 line goes as far back as 1992 when the European Union was founded and Barcelona played host to the Summer Olympic Games.

Taking inspiration from military and aviation history, the pieces have been ticking along since 2006. Offering maximum legibility and precision, they deliver the utmost level of reliability alongside the emblematic design code of the round in a square case. 

Source - Bell & Ross

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Sized at 41mm x 9.4mm, in stainless steel and rose gold, they are exceptionally stylish, and allow users to indulge in a little luxury, without breaking the bank on a completely solid precious metal timepiece. 

Ideal for that early morning office meeting or late night cocktail bar, it is given a brushed stainless steel square case with four prominent screws in either corner. The rose gold elements are spotted on the polished bezel and crown.

The chamfered edges work well around the edge of the pieces and the bezel, allowing them to be stylish and perfect for dressy situations. 

Onto the face, and we are presented with a snow-white dial, allowing the rose gold conjoined Arabic and baton hour markers. Fitted with sword shaped rose gold hands, the golden glow is a definite eye-catcher, especially since the white background is so minimalist with no finish. 

Between 4 and 5 o’clock, the date aperture is a useful adaptation and covers general timekeeping alongside keeping track of the day. These slender models are sharp, and offer 100 metres of water resistance through the solid caseback and screw down crown. 

With the very steady BR-CAL 302, the reliable 28,800VpH and weekend-proof 54 hour power reserve represent the pinnacle of the Bell & Ross tech. And we expect these debonair dashboard impresarios to be among the best pilot watches for any discerning gent.

What We Like

  • Affordable two tone precious metal case
  • Highly legible face
  • Solid water resistance

What We Don’t Like

  • Could of made more of rose gold material
  • White dial could be too bright for those interested in a low-key watch.

 

12. Santos de Cartier Dual Time

Diameter

40.2mm

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Power Reserve

40 hours

Thickness

10.1mm

Price

You can buy a Cartier Santos Dual Time at retail for £8,800 as of November 2024. 

Need we remind you that Cartier produced the first ever aviator's timepiece in 1904? Well, the Santos de Cartier represented a redesign of the classic Santos in 1978, pushing it more into the luxury sports chic arena with an integrated strap and stainless steel aesthetics. 

Source - Cartier

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After many renames and redesigns, it came back into its own in 2018 during SIHH. Now, for Watches and Wonders 2024, Cartier has turned to the Santos De Cartier with a highly effective, dual time function. Details? Sure, without wasting any more time, let’s cover them right now. 

The pretty large 40.2mm x 10.1mm specs is a somewhat chunky design for Cartier. Remember, this is the brand that released the super slim Tank and the slighter thicker Ballon Bleu. So, this stainless steel reference is a jolt to the horological senses. However, we reckon that the features will get you back on side. 

Affixed on the right side is a steel crown with an iconic cabochon sapphire jewel. This is the equivalent of the famous dot over 90 on the Omega Speedmaster. It goes hand in hand symbolically with the timepiece.

Given a slate grey face with silver Roman numerals and sword shaped hands, the pieces are dosed with luminescence and offer first rate clarity. 

Even down to the small date aperture at 3 o’clock, or the grey sub-counter at 6 o’clock, the brand melds different finishes like snailing and black alternate text colours to ensure that everything is instantly viewable. 

The sub-counter covers a second time, alongside a small dot above the top relating to a day and night indicator. Who needs an added GMT hand or a 24 hour scale. This is truly revolutionary for the gent looking to buy one of the best pilot watches. 

Taking centre stage is a reliable, Base Sellita calibre SW330-2 that beats at 4Hz and produces a 40 hour power reserve. Considering this is all within a 100 metre water resistant case, we are truly taken aback with the final product!

What We Like

+ Range of functions

+ Reimagination of classic Santos

+ Easy access second time zone sub-counter

What We Don’t Like

  • Could of chosen a more innovative material

 

13. IWC Big Pilot AMG G 63 Ceramic

Diameter

46.5mm

Case Material

Black ceramic

Power Reserve

7 days

Thickness

14.4mm

Price

You can buy an IWC Big Pilot AMG G 63 Ceramic at retail for £42,300 as of November 2024. 

Fancy something that is infused with enough racing force to give Lewis Hamilton a nervous disposition? Excellent, let’s introduce the IWC Big Pilot AMG G 63 Ceramic!

Source - IWC

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Its all black look would make you think it’s a spooktacular number fit for Halloween

Au contraire. 

When the Big Pilot line was presented to the public in 2002, it offered users the chance to indulge in an oversized case with a large crown and an ultra-legible dial. For this 2024 IWC Big Pilot, there is a distinctly modern edge, as assured by the inclusion of the Mercedes-AMG. 

First collaborating in 2004, it’s been a wonderful two decades of fabulous timepieces, including the sterling IWC Big Pilot AMG G 63 in 2023 in the brand's very precious armour gold material. 

This latest execution measures 46.5mm x 14.4mm, retaining its classical large dimensions.

Crafted out of black ceramic CMC, this is both lightweight and durable as it combines the properties of ceramic and carbon in a threaded design, offering optimal scratch resistance for your daily knocks and abrasions. 

The oversized crown and caseback ring is designed from Ceratanium, another excellent material that allows 100 metres of water resistance. 

Below the convex sapphire crystal is a stunning, textured black dial. Offering a thatched design, this sets a perfect matte backdrop for the black edged, but lume filled sword shaped hands and hour markers to clearly stand out. This is the case for the minute track on the periphery of the face. 

For features, they treat every budding aviator to a plethora of functions, including a date aperture at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and running seconds sub-counter at 9 o’clock. So where does the Mercedes theme come into play?

Flip the case over for a minute to see an exhibition caseback that reveals a glossy finish, with the Mercedes Benz logo in the centre in order to mimic the car brands spare tyre from their G-class motors.

Hey, who knew a car-inspired piece could be a possible winner of the best pilot watch!

If you can look past the emblem, you will be staring at the Calibre 52010. Offering a sensational 7 day power reserve as provided by the two barrel system, the Pellaton system ensures a reliable 28,800 VpH, meaning you’ll pass your wrist checks with flying colours.

What We Like

  • Exceptional power reserve
  • Innovative material
  • Brilliant Mercedes collab project

What We Don’t Like

  • Very large case
  • Very sporty meaning it probably wouldn’t suit the everyday wearer. 

 

14. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

Diameter

43mm

Case Material

Rose gold

Power Reserve

96 hours

Thickness

15.62mm

Price

You can buy a Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary at retail for £48,800 as of November 2024. 

The Breitling Navitimer is the tour de force of the aviation industry. It’s that cocky boy in the playground who is assured of himself from head to toe. 

And quite rightly so. 

Following the addition of a circular slide rule bezel of one of its Chronomat models in the 1940s, the Navitimer was later released in the 1950s for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). 

Source - Breitling

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They requested a timepiece for their members, prompting the Navitimer to be released in 1954, and soon became the official watch of the AOPA.

It has since become a legendary addition to the horological world, including being worn in the Mercury Space Program on the wrist of Scott Carpenter back in 1961. 

Extremely recognisable and an icon of its own accord, Breitling celebrated 140 years of their brand being a focal point of Swiss horology with a fabulous take on the Breitling Navitimer, Considered as one of the best pilot watches of all time, this model is sized at 43mm x 15.62mm in rose gold pieces.

Despite its uninspiring 30 metres of water resistance, this stunner is more than just a dive watch. Heck, we would probably only reserve it for those very special occasions!

Along the top is a classic slide rule bezel in black, allowing aviators and horophiles to quickly work out calculations via a rotating scale and fixed scale. This allows users to measure speed, time and distance, essential to the man sky-high. 

For the dial, this comes in a fabulous rose gold shade, matching the casing. Boasting a quadruple sub-counter aesthetic, this totals a moon-phase indicator at 12 o’clock and chronograph sub-counters with conjoined date, day and month scales on the edge.

Time is simply read via the rose gold polished baton hour markers and sword shaped hands. Lume is at the top of the markers while it makes up the centre of the hands. 

This aviator's watch is not only an essential tool for working out calculations via the scale, but also allows you to discern celestial positionings, and further measure time through the chronograph functions. 

Inside the new references is the Calibre B19. Offering a 28,800VpH alongside a 96 hour power reserve, this 39-jewelled movement is a powerhouse in the industry. 

What We Like

  • Strong power reserve
  • Nice rose gold casing
  • Emblematic celebration of the 140th anniversary

What We Don’t Like

  • Exceptionally thick

 

15. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/60G

Diameter

40.5mm

Case Material

White gold

Power Reserve

55 hours

Thickness

12.2mm

Price

You can buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/60G at retail for £67,620 as of November 2024. 

Fancy an aviation watch that neither weighs your wrist down with complications, nor looks like it would be a one-trick pony? The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/60G is a superb choice!

Source - Patek Philippe

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The Nautilus line was released in 1976, wherein Patek Philippe released their version of a stunning luxury sports-chic timepiece in response to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, similarly released during the 70s. Oh and don’t forget the Girard-Perregaux Laureato from 1975.

At 40.5mm x 12.2mm, the latest white gold references has a meagre 30 metres of water resistance. Not great, but this piece has more to offer than just durability and darn sexy good looks.

Finished with vertical and satin brushing, the pieces are exceptionally stylish and would form a beautiful part of any modern man’s wardrobe or office get up. It’s a sure fire combo winner every single time.

Given the classic octagonal bezel alongside the ear design on either side of the case, the pieces are timeless in their design and destined to become valuable over time. What are we saying, this is Patek Philippe, of course it’s investment-worthy!

For the dial, we have a horizontal embossment that features etched lines across the face. Given a navy blue shade, this allows the polished baton hour markers and hands to clearly stand out, especially since they are coated in lume. 

Fitted with a date aperture at 3 o’clock, alongside a useful sub-counter at 6 o’clock, this covers chronograph functions such as a 12 hour and 60-minute scale. The white minute track on the periphery allows for the models to offer precise time.

Home to the CH 28-520 C/522,  totalling 327 parts, it offers a rapid 28,800VpH alongside a reliable 55 hour power reserve. The epitome of opulence has flex appeal from every silicon hairspring. 

What We Like

  • Accessible dimensions
  • Fast frequency rate
  • Beautiful white gold material

What We Don’t Like

  • Poor water resistance
  • Very expensive

 

16. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst

Diameter

41mm

Case Material

Yellow gold

Power Reserve

60 hours

Thickness

13.1mm

Price

You can buy an A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst at retail for when you request a price as of November 2024.

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph has evolved to offer fabulous chronograph functionality, elevating the classically high-spec line to become a fabulous aviation timepiece. 

Source - A. Lange & Söhne

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The Datograph was initially released in 1999, wherein it represented the brands first in-house chronograph reference after the devastating Quartz Crisis. So, what does the latest Handwerkskunst variant from 2024 look like, and why is it one of the best pilot watches this year?

Totalling 41mm x 13.1mm, the yellow gold pieces are ultra-luxurious, especially since they are beautifully polished throughout the entire model, including the bezel, lugs and the pushers.

Onto the dial, this is where A. Lange & Söhne flexed their legendary Handwerkskunst that first took the world by storm in 2011 on the Richard Lange Tourbillon to the 2021 Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst. 

Suffice to say, they have the aesthetic down to a fine tee!

Given a solid gold dial base, they then add a hand-finished aesthetic through applying a dark grey, tremblage technique, essentially wherein an engraver creates a fine granular texture across the face. Wow, sounds complex!

Around the edge of the dial is a stunning, gold tachymetric scale that's applied, alongside applied Roman numeral hour markers and sword shaped hands. Yep, you can use that tachymetric scale to measure speed for those lift-off moments, or last-train dashes!

Given a gold edge large date aperture under 12 o’clock, alongside dual sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, equally finished with a lighter tremblage aesthetic.

These flyback chronograph functions offer navigators the ability to quickly restart a time measurement, for example to measure complex manoeuvres and flight paths, without having to completely stop the functions. 

Skipping along merrily is the strong Calibre L951.8. Totalling 426 components, the movement offers a 60 hour power reserve alongside a steady 18,000 VpH.

Viewable through the sapphire caseback, the movement is engraved by hand and is a wonderful addition to any collector or enthusiast watch rolls.

What We Like

  • Exceptionally unique tremblage face finish
  • Well presented, precious metal casing
  • Brilliant flyback chronograph capability

What We Don’t Like

  • Poor frequency rate

 

17. Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion

Diameter

44.5mm

Case Material

High intensity titanium

Power Reserve

72 hours

Thickness

16.8mm

Price

You can buy a Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion at retail for £12,000 as of November 2024. 

Fly like a butterfly, sting like a bee

Muhammed Ali (wearer of the Cartier Tank) and his animal references would have definitely loved this beautiful Grand Seiko Spring Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion! Trust us when we say this might be a roaring success if you are looking for one of the best pilot watches.

Source - Grand Seiko

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But, just like the boxing icon himself, Grand Seiko has dodged and weaved to produce a knockout Japanese timepiece which combines classic Eastern charm alongside a high-powered functionality. 

Sized at 44.5mm x 16.8mm, the references are crafted out of Grand Seiko’s beloved high-intensity titanium material. Offering extra-hardness than standard titanium, it’s estimated to be around one and a half times more scratch resistant than standard titanium. 

Fitted with two pushers on either side of the crown, they are neatly arranged and offer a sporty aesthetic. Around the top is a black ceramic bezel that yields a 24 hour scale in a sapphire insert.

This works in tandem with the added, arrow tipped GMT hand that allows you to easily measure multiple time zones at once. 

For the face, we have inspiration from the beautiful Hotaka Peaks mountain range. Looking at the early morning over this fabulous range, you will see a stunning fiery red accent which Grand Seiko have encapsulated via a rich, Morgenrot red colour. 

This is complemented with a randomised, brush stroke pattern that mimics the wild mane of a lion. Who needs Tony the tiger? While this is a stunning presentation, this allows the chunky baton hour markers and tapered hands to clearly stand out, especially since they have lume centres for maximum legibility. 

Given an unorthodox sub-counter placement of 2 o’clock, 4 o’clock and 9 o’clock, these cover chronograph functions like a 30-minute, 12 hour and small seconds counter, alongside an open power reserve indicator at 7 o’clock. 

Unsurprisingly, the face is so cramped that the Grand Seiko emblem is at 11 o’clock as opposed to 12 o’clock. However, every function is still readable against the backdrop of that bold, red dial.

Keeping this beauty ticking is the Calibre 9R96. Fitted with a column-wheel chronograph movement, they use their legendary Spring Drive capability to produce a reliable 72 hour power reserve alongside a -/ 0.5 seconds per day variation. 

What We Like

  • Uses their sensational high-intensity titanium material
  • Stunning Japanese inspiration
  • Range of useful functions

What We Don’t Like

  • Slightly cramped face

 

18. Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono

Diameter

44mm

Case Material

Grade 5 titanium

Power Reserve

60 hours

Thickness

13.15mm

Price

You can buy a Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono at retail for £22,500 as of November 2024. 

The Chopard Alpine Eagle was first released in 2019, wherein it instantly attracted eyes due to its adherence to the previous St. Mortiz line…but with modernised adaptations. 

Source - Chopard

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For this latest addition to the Alpine Eagle lineup, the timepieces come in a significant 44mm x 13.15mm (as per the XL Chrono title!) and are crafted out of grade 5 titanium. This is both light and durable, ensuring the size is not too threatening on your wrist. 

Fitted with a sporty two pusher and crown design, the piece has a circular bezel with 8 screws in pairs at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The industrial, sharp case is enhanced by the chamfered edges, adding a luxurious edge to the references. 

The spectacular 100 metres of water resistance allows the models to be worn in a multitude of situations, whether you are washing hands in the office, or taking a little dip in your private pool. 

Onto the face and we have a light blue shade, with a PVD finish that mimics the aesthetic of an Eagles iris. Framed by a black outer ring with a white tachymetric scale, this is a sporty addition to the models.

This measurement tool ties in very well with the triple chronograph display at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, offering a 12 hour, 30-minute and small seconds counter. 

The added date aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock is a useful addition, allowing you to quickly check the day when you are on the go. 

Beating within is the steady 03.05-C that offers a flyback chronograph movement. Totalling 310 components, the pieces offer a 60 hour power reserve alongside a 28,800VpH alongside that good-to-know COSC certification, confirming the movement quality. 

What We Like

  • Reliable material against knocks and is lightweight
  • Good water resistance allows you to wear this in most situations
  • Unique Eagle iris aesthetic

What We Don’t Like

  • Wide and thick case may be too problematic for everyday wearer

 

Conclusion

Stop the clock.

We have covered the very best pilot watches to suit the most cultivated of aviation lovers. Whether flying high with the social elites, flashing your cash out on the town, or battling against the elements, you’ll be flying high with one of our nimble novelties, covering every type of budget and taste.

From entry level to down right ostentatious, aviation watches are here to stay among horophiles. Offering either chronograph, GMT or other complications that allow you to quickly measure time, they have developed to become exceptional everyday pieces for the busy gent. 

However, if you are just wanting to buy a reference that can be worn in the office, there are some that may catch your eye in precious metals and feature minimal complications. Instead, a cleaner aesthetic is perhaps the best option for you. 

If you are looking for something with a little luxury and more wow factor than an Oscars red carpet, we recommend you opt for the platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind. This expensive material is not only a top navigator watch, but also may become investment worthy further down the line.

For something full of aviation spirit, you cannot go wrong with the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, with its historical ties to aviation and desirable titanium material, counteracting any negative weight effects. 

So, we’ve finally reached the end of our epic guide to the best pilot watches. It’s now time to take to the skies once more, and boldly go where no one has gone before…

Want to get your hands on a stylish navigators watch? Looking to fill your horological closet with aviation spirit. Contact Chrono Hunter here and we will be delighted to run through your specific options. 

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Further Reading:

The Top 12 Most Popular Omega Watches For Men

9 Of The Best Meteorite Dial Watches For Spaced Out Enthusiasts

 

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