Grand Seiko Reveals Pair Of New Mid-Sized 44GS SBGW297 And SBGW299 Watches Inspired By Paper Folding Fans

 

In Brief

• Part of the classic 44GS Heritage collection, there are plenty of clean lines and Japanese crafts that can be seen on the dials, paying close attention to paper folding fans and traditional sliding doors.
• Stemming back to 1967, the initial release of the 44GS, Grand Seiko have unveiled two new dials in dark blue and white that bear close resemblance to Kamisen, the method of paper folding fans.
• Introducing the SBGW297 And SBGW299 models, skilled craftsmanship, detail and precision can be seen across both dials and cases that have ravishing ridges and are presented on a stainless steel bracelet.
• Introduced as “mid-size” due to its slimmer and contemporary 36.5mm diameter, both SBGW297 And SBGW299 watches come with male end links, 9S64 movement and box-style sapphire crystal.
• Forget mountains, seasons and autumnal accents, as seen in the Hi-Beat Grand Seiko "Yuka Momiji" SBGJ273 Red Dial Traveller GMT. This time round, horophiles can drool over new additions to the 44GS range that incorporates subtle design, a weekend proof movement and lots of stainless steel.
• With releases coming thicker and speedier than a TAG Monaco, the new SBGW297 And SBGW299 models are as radiant as Gigi Hadid, casting striking interplay between light and shadow.

 

1. A Visit To The Masterful World Of The 44GS

 

1967 changed the course of time for Grand Seiko as it did with the Apollo 1 fire, where three astronauts by the name of Gus Grissom, Ed White and Roger B. Chaffee were caught in a devastating fire. 

 

Source: Brand site

 

 

Meanwhile, Roy Emerson won the Australian Open tennis Championship for a record fifth consecutive year and Aretha Franklin recorded “Respect" that hit top spot as Billboard Song Of The Year. 

Of course, we have to give our own props to the 44GS collection. Sure, Grand Seiko had emerged on the scene in 1960. But it was seven years later when the sharp edges and super soft lines were to launch this magnificent timepiece into the horological stratosphere.

Featuring the nine signature design elements found in their luxury watches, the renaissance of the 44GS was born out of necessity and evolution. The connection between light and dark is another inherent symbol of understated elegance and unwavering expression.

Like a Rolex Daytona, the 1960’s was a vintage decade for watchmaking and as highly desirable as a bottle of Chateau Lafite. This was largely in part down to a number of different watches and brands launching impressive models from  Omega, IWC, Zenith and Jaeger LeCoultre…notably the Memovox which was gaining popularity from its creation in 1950. And we’ll certainly drink to that.

Grand Seiko was no different with the ideal melange of edges and lines combined with flat surfaces for a first rate reinterpretation. Add in its bespoke Zaratsu polishing that sparkles more than a lab-grown diamond or the Eiffel Tower during winter and you have yourself a unique design ethos. Excellent clarity across the dial from the hour and minute hands as well as the indexes (in particular at 12) meant many saw this as a shining example of horology.

 

Zaratsu polishing technique, Source: Brand site

 

 

And nearly six decades later, the brand is still launching new 44GS models that would send many enthusiasts more into orbit than an Omega Speedmaster. The 44GS marked a shift towards more angular and contemporary case designs, departing from the more traditional and round cases that were prevalent in earlier Grand Seiko models. The 44GS set the tone for many of the design elements that have since become synonymous with the Grand Seiko brand. 

And the man behind the revolution? None other than Nobuhiro Kosugi who designed this brand new case with its razor sharp edges and subtle curves that has now made it a favourite among budding enthusiasts, transcending the generations.

 

2. Personality Of The New 44GS SBGW297 And SBGW299 Watch

 

Don’t know about you but over at Chrono Hunter HQ, we ain't tired yet of Grand Seiko and its horological conveyor belt of new models and releases. Ok, they are coming out of the factory late at lightning speed to match the energetic spirit of a luxury sports watch.

 

Source: GS9 Club

 

 

Nevertheless, these two new novelties deliver epic Japanese craftsmanship and precision to rival a Kensei sword. Of course, we are talking about the Kamisen effect which is there for all to be seen across both timepieces. Harking back to the traditional craft of paper folding fans, you can clearly see the attention to detail that has gone into each of these dials. 

Both models, namely the SBGW297 And SBGW299 enjoy a ridged effect that lends it to being a genuine dress watch contender that would look ideal in and out of the office. Let’s face it, novelties are there not only to enjoy but to make a fashion statement fit for the timekeeping catwalk.

Measuring a rather modest 36.5mm, these slimmer watches, or mid-size as they are called, are definitely en vogue with modern collectors who are looking to buy a watch. Just take other slinky numbers of late. Ranging from the 37mm Tudor Black Bay 54, paying tribute to the original and coveted Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7924 to the Longines Spirit Adventure from 2022.

Let’s kick things off with the SBGW297 for just a second. With its striking yet simplistic white dial, this particular model enjoys a blued seconds hand made from steel which makes this beauty as unique as a snowflake. Well, Summer is finally over (not for Richard Mille though with last month’s launch of the RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramics models) but, hold the front page time peeps.

 

Source: Brand site

 

 

Weighing 132 grams, the dimensions are identical to the SBGW299 in dark blue, measuring 42.7mm x 11.6mm thick but there is no differing seconds hand on the latter. Diamond cut indexes and applied indices on both Kamisen models are a joy to behold, while we can excuse its one bracelet option that includes a push-button folding clasp. 

The 42.7mm lug to lug should sit comfortably and effortlessly on most wearers wrists, these time-only models have stripped everything back as much as an Ed Sheeran acoustic concert. And no, we don't even have a minute to go into his mind-blowing collection. 

His music may divide some, but one cannot argue about his flex. Boasting a grail worthy Patek Phillipe Nautilus 5711 Tiffany Dial, Sheeran owns a Hublot Big Bang Original Gold, the highly respected Rolex Daytona Rainbow ref. 116599RBOW worn by many of the footballing elite and a humble £250 Moonswatch. And that’s not even scratching the surface, bezel, case or dial!

 

Sheeran rocking the Daytona Rainbow ref. 116599RBOW, Source: Johannesgeger, Twitter/Rolex

 

 

We admire Grand Seiko’s moxy for presenting a time-only version of these models sans compilations like a moonphase, chronograph or tourbillon. Be it sporty or dress watches, beauty is in the eye of the beholder as to how you wear it. Why add a date aperture or perpetual calendar if it doesn’t require it. Let the timepiece do the talking is what we say. Isn’t there a series in that?

Paper folding and horological fans around the world, no matter what time zone they are in will stand up and respect both of these models. Dating back to the Muromachi era between 1333 and 1573, Kamisen came to fruition which involved both bamboo and paper to create this so-called one of a kind Japanese folding fan technique. 

Source: GS9 Club

 

 

Based on a sense of warmth, spatial diversity and artisanal craft of the highest order, the new 44GS SBGW297 And SBGW299 watches are nearly as thin as a Rolex Oyster Perpetual and enjoy a depth rating of 100 metres.

Should you take time to dive off the highboard on vacation? Highly unlikely as with most watches of this ilk, it is an advertised water resistance and is strongly recommended you don’t go near or beyond this measurement. It is advised for 100 metres that you can wear a timepiece during light swimming, snorkelling but not per se immersing yourself in some rip-roaring scuba diving. 

Oh no, we wouldn’t want you to cause irreparable damage to your new Grand Seiko would we?

 

What We Like

+ Unfussy design

+ Excellent accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day in contrast to standard rates at +10 to -1 seconds daily

+ Stainless steel aesthetics and Kamisen style dial.

 

What We Don’t Like

- Lack of complications

- No date window

- One bracelet option

 

3. 9S64 Movement

 

Pulsating at a steady 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, both 44GS SBGW297 And SBGW299 models are home to the 9S64 movement. Debuted in 2011, it takes advantage of a much slimmer and longer mainspring that is made from SPRON510.

 

Source: GS9 Club

 

 

Highly resistant to shocks with anti-magnetic properties, this movement also has a MEMS escape wheel and pallet aiding in its pristine performance and top notch reliability. Adhering to the highest industry standards, this hand-wound, time-only movement is at the pinnacle of watchmaking that has seen GS bring out the fanfare for its renowned 9S movement. 

Only recently among the plethora of new releases, we saw a duo of new GMT watches from the Japanese giants Elegance and Sport collections, marking 25 years of the 9S movement. Time to get the Cristal on ice.

So the interior may be beefier than many Swiss movements which will potentially have its pros and cons for both enthusiasts and collectors. Mind you, we are not going to dispute its sturdy, weekend-proof power reserve of 72 hours. This should give you plenty of time to sort that Powerpoint presentation prior to an overseas business trip or kit yourself out for that romantic weekend away.

 

4. Specifications Of The New SBGW297 And SBGW299 Models

 

Reference	SBGW297/SBGW299
Dial Colour	White (SBGW297) Dark Blue (SBGW299)
Case Diameter	36.5mm
Lug to Lug distance	42.7mm
Case Thickness	11.6mm
Strap material	Stainless steel
Case back	Screw in
Crystal material	Box-style sapphire
Dial style	Japanese inspired Kamisen
Water Resistance	10ATM (circa 100 metres)
Bracelet style	single-deployant clasp alongside push-button release
Functions	hours, minutes and central seconds
Accuracy	(Average daily rate): +5 to -3 seconds per day
Number of jewels	24
Movement system	Mechanical, manual winding

 

5. Where Can You Buy A New Grand Seiko SBGW297 And SBGW299?

 

Not available until November 2023, you can buy a Grand Seiko at retail for £4,900 

 

6. What’s Our View?

 

Understated yet without doubt fit for purpose, both models come up trumps in terms of detail, elegance and texture that many associates with this Japanese brand. Are they sure fire investment pieces? Probably not but it remains a smart addition to their Heritage collection

Plus, it does make a change from several references to Mount Iwate which has been done to the dozen recently. Gaining rapidly in popularity for their exquisite detail, crisp lines, stainless steel numbers and Zaratsu polishing, GS are earning their reputation as fast as their Hi-Beat Tentagraph for being an ideal entry level watch.

The hour is upon us but don’t go anywhere yet.

 

7. Best Grand Seiko 44GS Watches To Buy

 

Aside from the Spring Drive Snowflake Ref. SBGA211 and Elegance GMT Ref. SBGM221 which many collectors seem to favour and are considered one of their most popular timepieces, if you are a Grand Seiko fan or want to reach Mount Iwate in double quick time, here are our top picks of the hottest 44GS models;

 

Reference	Retail Price (As of October 2023)
SBGJ267	£6,650
SLGH013	£8,400
SBGJ263	£6,650
SBGW303 (Limited Edition)	£5,500

 

Conclusion

 

We must admit at the moment that we cannot wait what lies ahead for the Japanese giant. Its array of releases have made them more relevant at the bottom end of the luxury scale and a firm competitor to similar brands like Omega and dare we say Rolex. 

Yes, this is a top luxury brand with impressive credentials that’s garnering more and more popularity among the darkest corners of the community, not to mention clubs, groups and corners of bars.

Take for example the Rolex Submariner 114060 which bears resemblance to the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive Diver SBGA229. The vertical integration is uncanny you might say especially when you blend quartz accuracy, metal Zaratsu polishing and mechanical mastery which has made the brand more talked about than one of Piers Morgan’s interviews.

But here comes the latest scoop. Believe us when we say that GS are making giant strides into the best men’s watches to buy under £50,000 and are a great combattant to the coronet. Sure, Rolex delivers a much more focused catalogue in contrast to the Japanese brand whose releases are ever changing like the seasons.

Nonetheless, only time will tell if they can steal Hans Wilsdorf’s crown.

 

 

Looking to buy a Grand Seiko the smart way and at the best possible price. Perhaps you want to sell a watch to upgrade to the new Mid-Sized 44GS SBGW297 And SBGW299? Whether purchase or sale, why not save time and money and contact ChronoHunter here.  

Be it new or pre-owned, buy or sell all manner of luxury watches and models from all the top brands including Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Omega and many more. Benefit from multiple offers thanks to our established selection of trusted luxury retailers and choose which one is right for you. 

Enjoy first rate service from start to finish, super quick turnaround, 5 star Trustpilot reviews and an understanding of the luxury market like no other. Obtain the best possible valuations, top prices paid when selling and no-obligation estimates of your timepiece so you don’t get a raw deal.

 

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