The legendary “Stadium-shaped” case takes on a bold, new form. With a duo of cross-hatched dials in Tobacco Green and Slate Blue, we review the Serica Parade Ref. 1174 Linen collection
Summary
- As per the Omega Speedmaster, it’s one giant leap for mankind for this French independent watch brand, enhancing their current series with two new dials.
- Finesse, refinement and sophistication take another confident stride forward, taking inspiration from cross-weave fabric, ensuring a deeper, fuller appearance, while keeping every hour marker that’s been hand-applied and polished.
- Founded in 2019 by Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette in the “City of Light”, this Parisian outfit is shining their own horological light, focusing on the Golden Age of watchmaking with a leaning towards vintage.
- Showcasing a Patek Phillipe Ellipse style architecture, the OG series was launched towards the end of 2024 to many plaudits. Blending modernity with retro vibes, they have enhanced the dress watches category with two linen dials.
- There’s much to admire, from a Roman Colosseum design-inspired “sandwich” case and sleek vertical brushing, to a sub 9mm thickness, signature pin buckle and Soprod M100 movement.
There may be a focus on top Swiss luxury watch brands but, across the English Channel, the French are upping their game. There’s Beaubleu and the Seconde Francaise that was nominated for a GPHG award.
Who could not forget Pequignet?
Renowned for the 96 hour Calibre Royale, we must take a second to note their recent drops together with Atelier Wen for the Ancestra. The latter, Founders Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, are both French!
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So what is on today’s menu du jour?
Our review of the Serica Parade Ref. 1174 Linen. Building on the original collection, we take a look at two new dials as this Parisian brand expands their existing lineup.
Hit Parade
As popular as "Not Like Us" by Kendrick Lamar, the original Serica Parade launched in 2024.
With a lot of blood, sweat and horological tears, half a decade of hard work paid off with the brand’s first time dress watch, uncovering what they call “timeless elegance.”

Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue (well, black)
With a case thickness of just 8.3mm this has been finessed to the nth degree, while displaying a super slim, unique architecture for enthusiasts to lap up.
Add in 100 metres of water resistance , ardillon buckle and polished bevel and they have completely transformed the notion of a typical dress piece.
It has bundles of modern dress watch energy with vintage restraint. Polished steel catches the light. Dauphine hands slice across a perfectly balanced dial. Every detail feels deliberate.

Ref 1174-1, brass declination
No loud logos. No gimmicks. Just proportion, balance, and quiet confidence.
Slim on the wrist but strong in presence, it moves effortlessly from tailored jacket to rolled-up sleeves. A domed crystal adds depth. The automatic movement keeps it honest.
The finishing keeps it more interesting with that added je ne sais quoi. The Serica Parade collection isn’t about trends. It’s about timing — and taste.
Understated. Architectural. Unapologetically refined.
Personality Of The Serica Parade Ref. 1174 Linen
“With the Ref. 1174 Linen, the idea was to bring an even more organic pattern to the Parade. To achieve the final result, we even went to the extent of 3D scanning actual linen fabric to create a non-repetitive, truly natural pattern.”
Gabriel Vachette, Co-Founder of Serica, talking exclusively to Chrono Hunter
Forget the infamous MACYs parade…this one just keeps on going, with two new dial declinations in Tobacco Green and Slate Blue.

And the hits keep on coming for the French brand. What began in 2019 with the field inspired WWW (Wrist Watch Waterproof) has now evolved into a step into the dress watch category.
Yes, there may be straight flanks and edges that are as curvy and rounded as Jessica Rabbit.
However, this number proves dressier timepieces can veer towards a GADA or everyday novelty.
PEOPLE ALSO READ: A Collection Of The Best Everyday Watches For The Modern Gent - Chrono Hunter
Look, the Ellipse case design is not new.
Patek Philippe has it down to a tee, albeit sans waitlists for big hitters like the Nautilus or Aquanaut. But this so-called stadium case has been well executed.
Steeped in history, leaning on the Roman type coliseums, this would give even Plato and Pliny plenty to think about!
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Measuring 35mm x 8.6mm thick with a length of 41mm, the Serica Parade Ref. 1174 Linen is the same diameter as vintage Rolex numbers such as reference 168623 and reference 168628, popular from the 1990s until 2015 when they were replaced by 37mm versions.
It is so slender that it’s about 0.4mm less than an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm (Ref. 15550/15551), which has a case thickness of 9mm to 9.1mm.
READ MORE: The Top 12 Most Popular Audemars Piguet Watches For Men
Lest we forget the cross-hatched or textured dials, brimming with character and just a soupçon of panache.
“Experimenting with color is always a fascinating process. In the case of the Parade Linen, both shades had to be singular, nuanced, deep, and elegant. The Tobacco Brown actually lies between light brown and olive green, while the Slate Blue variant sits somewhere between dark blue and warm grey.”
Jérôme Burgert, Co-Founder of Serica on colour palette variations
So there might be a century old brand trying to pull off something similar, such as Ercigoj Art Embroidery, a Slovenian company specialising in mastering hand-embroidered watch dials.
But they don’t have the kudos in the sphere that Vachette and Burgert have commanded…and in such a short space of time.
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With a lugless construction, there are vertical brushing flanks, polished bevel, non-screw-down crown and a curved case, leading to a certain wrist-hugging experience.
But there’s more to it than meets the eye.
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This is down to a minimal horological landscape that can deal with the urban, and tackle way past the midnight hour.
The crisp milling that can be seen is both chic and offers depth that is not shy but evokes a restrained vintage appeal, as explained by Jérôme Burgert above.
It’s as cool as the Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier…minus the chalcedony of course.
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The dials are Slate Blue and Tobacco Green, evoking a genuine sense of times gone by and a general yearning for the good times.
And that’s not a bad thing. Think 70’s avocado bathrooms, mauve tiles, prawn cocktail and Ford Cortina cars.
As for the nostalgia button, the brand has turned it up, bringing a sense of warmth and comfort, yet touching on the many reasons why we like textured dials.
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The look is complete with a dozen miniscule hour markers that have a dot effect and are applied while the hour and minute hands are leaf shaped with mirror-finishing.
The minimalist vibe is encapsulated in the lack of text on the dial which we like for its ultimate simplicity. Who needs perpetual calendars, tourbillons and retrograde calendars which will cost way, way more?
We can see “Serica Swiss” nestled in between 6 o’clock.
But it is the textured dial that takes centre stage. In addition, we also love the seconds-free element which is nowhere to be seen.
A tribute to the care-free suspension of time itself, ingrained in the brand DNA.
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The straps compliment the tones beautifully and are made from alligator-embossed calfskin, together with their signature Stadium pin buckle, bearing resemblance to the case shape.
This ties up a well thought out piece that has literally gone full circle.
Official Specs - Serica Parade Ref. 1174 Linen
|
Case Diameter |
35mm |
|
Case Length |
41mm |
|
Case Thickness |
8.6mm |
|
Case Material |
Stainless Steel |
|
Dial Declination |
|
|
Indexes |
Applied, dot |
|
Hands |
Domed, sword-shaped |
|
Type of Crystal |
Sapphire |
|
Caseback |
Stainless steel |
|
Strap |
Choice of either blue or brown alligator-embossed calf leather (18-14mm) |
|
Crown |
Non screw-down |
|
Type of buckle |
Pin (stainless steel) |
|
Water Resistance |
100 metres / 10ATM / 10 Bar / Approximately 328 feet |
|
Functions |
Hours, minutes |
|
Limited Edition |
No, permanent collection |
Did You Know?
In 2025, the brand developed an amagnetic diving chronometer, entitled ref. 5303PLD, in association with the Amicale des Plongeurs Démineurs (Miner Divers' Association)
Soprod M100 Movement
Beating away like a drum inside is the Soprod M100, a Swiss-made automatic mechanical watch movement manufactured by Soprod SA, a movement maker that’s part of the Festina Group.
It’s the ideal alternative to more common Swiss calibres like the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200, giving brands an automatic option with strong performance and excellent flexibility.
This three-handed calibre is versatile and housed in many different types of watches.
PEOPLE ALSO READ: 11 Different Types Of Watches You Need To Know About - Chrono Hunter
With its super slim profile at around 3.6 mm high, it’s relatively slim for its class, giving designers more flexibility with case thickness. And did we mention the Cotes de Geneve finishing?
The Soprod M100 is a Swiss automatic movement known for many things, like classic mechanical architecture, good accuracy, smooth sweeping seconds operation, and a solid choice for watches looking to balance traditional mechanical prowess with modern technicality.
The 100 metres of water resistance elevate it to a sportier piece without compromising on design.
It means it can stand up to light swimming, rain, snorkelling and even in the shower. Sure, it’s not got the Hulk-like strength of a Rolex Submariner with its 300 metres depth rating
READ MORE: Should You Still Buy A Rolex Submariner?
Nevertheless, it still packs a punch…especially at this price point. However, if you want to buy a watch containing the Soprod M100 movement, not only will you find it in the Serica ref. 6190 Field Chronometer and 5303 collection, but in the following watches;
- Aragon Watch Co (Hercules Model from 2022)
- Atelier Millésime Merveilleux II
- Century Elegance Skeleton
Official Movement Specs
|
Country of Manufacture |
Switzerland |
|
Movement Diameter (Total) |
25.6mm |
|
Type of Movement |
Manual |
|
Rotor Direction |
Bi-directional |
|
Number of jewels |
25 |
|
Power Reserve |
Approximately 42 hours |
|
Hacking seconds |
Yes |
|
Vph |
28,800 (4Hz) |
Where Can You Buy The Serica Parade Ref. 1174 Linen?
Priced at £1,324 / approx 1,520 Euros, both Tobacco Green (Ref. 1174-3) and Slate Blue (Ref. 1174-4) watches can be purchased here
Presented on an alligator embossed leather strap, not only can engravings be added but these two new colours are adaptable to a host of different wrists ranging from short, 14-16cm to as much as long fits, stretching up to 22cm fits.
And all without the need for tools.
What’s Our View?
As flowing as a statement dress from Donatello Versace and as versatile as Mr. Beast, Founders Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette have struck the right balance with this fabulous addition to the line.
Elegant, understated, and ideal to pair with numerous straps, their case shape is instantly recognisable and has defined the brand. I would go as far as to say the Gerald Genta of independent makers.
One of the best microbrands operating on the scene today, their passion to succeed and to deliver outstanding wallet-friendly watches combines Gallic flair to rival Eric Cantona, and contemporary design that’s pretty unrivalled in this specific price point.
Oozing luxury appeal on many levels, there’s lots to tip your hat to, including Côtes de Genève finishing, Soprod M100 movement and uber refined appearance.
In fact, you’d be hard pressed to find something as sexy as Serica at this level.
Conclusion
Pure, unadulterated charm and the personification of quiet luxury, the Serica Parade Ref. 1174 Linen is both effortless and enduring.
Much like Co-Founders Gabriel Vachette and Jérôme Burgert!
The simplistic way they have elevated the hours and minutes execution with two new cross hatched dials shows, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Well, at least offer an interesting tweak to an already successful line.
Rigid, robust and sporting plenty of elegance, creativity and retro vibes go hand in hand seamlessly…you might say, like clockwork.
Want to buy a Patek Philippe Ellipse? Have you thought that now is the time to sell my Rolex and upgrade to a dress watch?
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Serica
Further Reading:
Atelier Wen Millésime Perception 漩 (Xuán) Showcases New Pietersite Stone Dial For 2026
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