A Definitive Guide To The Best Dress Watches For Any Swanky Event
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A Definitive Guide To The Best Dress Watches For Any Swanky Event

A Definitive Guide To The Best Dress Watches For Any Swanky Event

  

A man’s outfit is something that cannot be understated when he steps out into the world. A key component of this is a definitive dress watch, which can bolster or take apart an outfit with ease. Don’t get us wrong, we love the best sports watches and dive watches, but there is a place for them in the horological world. After all, wearing a Panerai Submersible in its 45mm frame may prove more of a negative talking point in the boardroom than it would diving headfirst off your SuperYacht.  

Of course, this isn’t the same for all dive timepieces not being suited to dressy events. Take for example the Tudor Pelagos 39mm which could comfortably fit under shirt cuffs and have absolutely no issues about being your oceanside companion.

Look, we know all the questions that are running through your head about if there is a market out there for the best dress watches for men. Yes, Yes Yes. There most certainly is! From affordable to downright outlandish, Chrono Hunter has your timekeeping back covered with our expert view of the best dress watches. 

Luckily for you, we are not short on a few dress timepieces. With brands like Rolex bringing out the 1908 for 2023 and older classics like the Cartier Santos, looking fancy on people’s wrists since 1911, you have the perfect blend of vintage allure and sexy contemporary numbers that deserves to be slapped on your wrist. 

So, without any further ado, let’s get straight into it with a few pertinent horological questions that people ask.

 

What Is A Dress Watch?

 

Is A Dress Watch An Everyday Watch?

So can a dress watch be an everyday watch? There’s a bit of pretension in the horological world about when and when not to use a dress piece. In the example above, we said it may not be the best option to choose a bulky piece for a suit and tie event. However, if the timepiece is small enough and svelte as Kylie Minogue, it can easily be pulled off with no issues whatsoever.

Have we got you spinning around yet? Most certainly, this is very much the same case with dress watches. If you land on one which is not only a smashing Bobby Dazzler on the wrist, but has the durability to withstand most of life’s knocks, it can be worn for all manner of lavish events. 

The case sizes may be a little smaller than sporty models, but once you get past that and get used to a smaller case size, you should have no problems with the dainty side of case life!

 

Can You Wear A Dress Watch All The Time?

Yes, a dress timepiece can be worn all the time…provided it’s comfortable enough. In this instance, everyday models tend to be associated with sports and dive pieces, purely because they are prioritised for durability and comfort.

Some models like the Longines Dolce Vita Sector Dial are crafted out of highly durable stainless steel and feature supple leather straps, pertaining to the comfort aspect of the piece. As long as you feel like your wrist won’t fall off or start to turn red, you can wear it all the time, not just for dressy affairs. 

However, if you’ve paid a good sum of money for one, like a vintage Rolex Day-Date in gold, you may feel a little uneasy about wearing something so priceless or sought after around town. We don’t blame you as a scratch on that, feels like a dagger in your own heart. 

Therefore, it’s completely up to you as to whether or not you wish to roll the horological dice and bring it out. 

 

Is A Dress Watch Formal?

It depends…are you looking for a formal piece? If you are, you can most certainly land yourself a piece that is brimming with formality. Take for example The Patek Philippe Calatrava collection. With a minimalist dial, gold case and a heaven sent supple brown leather strap, we hold no reservations against this being an out and out formal dress piece. 

For other editions like the Omega AquaTerra with summer blue colours, it does have a fun, sky blue colouring, allowing you to de-formalise an outfit. Even though the case is steel, it’s still a gorgeous piece and can be paired with a navy suit or a black cashmere jumper if you feel a little dressed back.

It’s difficult to find a model that can be used in a variety of situations, but a few key components to look for are the style and casing. We certainly wouldn't bring a platinum timepiece out to the ice-skating rink! Again beauty is very firmly in the eye of the beholder here.

 

Does Rolex Have A Dress Watch?

Rolex have recently done away with the Rolex Cellini, an out and out dress watch which featured guilloche styles and cases ranging from rose gold to white gold. It was a beautiful timepiece, but like the end of Friends…all good things must come to an end. 

Rolex decided to treat us with the fantastic Rolex 1908. Given a 39mm case in either white or yellow gold, it boasts luxury from the get go. It’s sleek sizing and highly minimalist white or black dial is everything a dress watch fanatic could dream of. Plus it’s a completely new dressy direction that Wilsdorf and Co are aiming for.

There are other collections too which have stood the test of time. The Rolex Datejust collection has been ticking along since 1945 and immediately gained notoriety as the first model whose date changed at midnight. Varying from 36mm to 41mm in case diameter, they come in a strong selection of materials such as duo gold, steel and pure gold. 

The Day-Date is another great collection that offers a variety of styles. Featuring platinum dials on reference 2281236 and Everose gold on reference 118135, this collection is easily distinguishable due to the stunning President bracelet. Offering a sleeker take on the classic Oyster bracelet, the President bracelet is one to look out for in terms of desirable dress watches.  

Lastly, you may find that The Rolex Sky-Dweller is more your cup of timekeeping tea. I’ll have what Roger Federer wore at Wimbledon 2023. While associated with the enigmatic world of travelling due to its ingenious Ring Command bezel that navigates multiple zones, it’s actually an incredibly stylish dress piece. 

When it was released in 2012, it was only available in golden forms like yellow and white. It has since evolved to include more accessible materials like Rolesor which blends gold and steel together. Measuring 42mm, it’s bulky, but still suave enough with the classic fluted bezel to be accessible to the luxury market. 

 

What Is Considered A Men’s Dress Watch?

There is a very simple criteria as to what makes a men's dress timepiece.  

  • Is the case elegant? It doesn't matter if it’s crafted out of steel or gold…so long as the case features either curvature or beautifully cut straight lines exactly like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
  • Is the strap attractive? Fitted with either a delightfully soft leather strap or beautifully finished metal bracelet like the Jubilee or the President for Rolex, the strap is an integral part to looking and feeling confident. 
  • Is the dial clean? If the dial is clean with, for example, just Roman Numerals and a guilloche dial, it can be considered as a dress piece. If there is a small aperture, that is just as acceptable. In some instances, a nice moonphase on a blue dial piece can add another element of beauty as featured on The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon 39mm or Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase
  • Is it something you think personally is a dress model? All in all, if you think it’s a dress timepiece, it probably is! Timepieces and style are all subjective. Trust your intuition and find a look that you think best reflects your personality and wardrobe for all things dressy, including the office, behind the barbecue grill or clinking cocktail glasses with CEO’s during after work drinks. 

 

Are Dress Watches Still Popular?

 

Dress watches are still enormously popular in the grand scheme of horology. Following on from the eclectic history behind brands like Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, the iconic dress styles of the past have been bolstered with modern technical updates. 

Men are looking for the everyday watch due to them being more affordable. While this does reside on the side of sporty timepieces due to their durability and precision, dress watches are slowly catching up as they remain stylish, but become more durable and feature technical updates which boast great horological precision.

Now then. We’ve run through the intricacies of what sums up a men's dress watch. Now let’s delve deep into our definitive guide to the best dress watches, fit for any swanky occasion. Whether you are looking to buy a watch for the first time, searching for that entry-level luxury watch or saving for that big promotion, look no further. 

We’re sure you’ll find something that will pique your interest.

 

Rolex 1908

 

The Rolex 1908 is fresh off the horological press from Watches and Wonders 2023

 

1908 - Source - Reddit

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Measuring 39mm, this timepiece caters towards the trend of smaller pieces which is gripping Gen-Z as much as their desire for neo-vintage models. Crafted out of yellow gold or white gold, you have the opportunity to choose between two equally desirable metals. 

The refined lugs gently lean into the case with stunning curvature that would put Raquel Welch to shame. The case itself is incredibly sleek which allows the totaling 45.2mm to be nothing at all on the wrist. Given a polished finish, the case aims to be as quaint as possible, deciding to choose a smarter finish than the sporty polished effect. 

The bezel too is a beauty with a serrated edge which leads to a fluted aesthetic. Screw the rotatable bezel like the Rolex Submariner…we’re here for the best dress timepieces…nothing more, nothing less.

The dial is very simplistic as it contains a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and that’s it for the complications. The combination of Arabic numerals and baton indices is subtle but adds a legible finish to the 1908. Deviating away from the opulent design of the Cellini’s rayon flammé de la gloire pattern, the 1908 instead goes for a satin finish instead. Why have cotton when you can have silk!

Powered by the movement 7140, the movement is supported with a Chronergy escapement and a Syloxi hairspring to bolster the reliability from magnetism and knocks. Running at 28,800VpH and offering 66 hours of power reserve, the weekend-proof movement is a formidable force for an elegant dress timepiece. 

We recommend pairing this with a black suit for serious office days or a powder blue shirt to let the yellow gold really stand out. 

You can buy a Rolex 1908 at retail for £18,500 at the time of writing.

 

Grand Seiko Urushi Maki-e

 

Sometimes a nice jolt of colour is all that's needed to make a dress model that little bit greater. 

 

Urushi Maki-e - Source - Grand Seiko

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Measuring 39mm, the Grand Seiko Urushi Maki-e is perfect for the metropolitan man who doesn't want a model that’s either too big or small. Sure, it may sound like something you would pick up in a sushi bar…but there’s so much more to the Urushi Maki-e. 

Crafted out of 18K rose gold, the case sheen is a beautiful reddish gold hue that offers an alternative to the very popular yellow or white gold sheens. The dial is where the party gets started. Upon first glance, you may assume that it’s a really well finished red dial and think nothing more of it. In fact, the dial is made from Urushi Lacquer which is a form of Japanese craftsmanship that is very rare to find. 

The “Urushi” material is found from the trees that grow in a little Japanese town called Joboji. Lying under Mt. Iwate, which is the most prominent mountain around the Shizukuishi Studio, the material not only looks amazing, but has strong ties to the maker. 

The pattern on the dial is known as Mt Iwate and it looks very much like the iris of Satan’s red eyes! Don't be dismayed, we are sure you’ll end up in horological heaven with this stunner. The hour markers and GS text below 12 o’clock, finished with Maki-e styling that a gentleman (and master engraver) named Isshu Tamura is done to perfection. 

Made up of numerous layers, the markers look like they are rising out of the dial to meet you. Thank goodness for the dual curved sapphire crystal that offers a little extra room. Enjoying a healthy dose of 24K gold or platinum powder for an extra touch of luxury, they are then polished to give the recognizable Maki-e shimmering shine. 

Powered by the movement 9S63, the movement here is given an accuracy of around -3/+5 seconds per day and a very strong power reserve of 72 hours. This gives you enough time to lounge in your boating loafers aboard that private yacht party or hot foot it to Europe for a weekend getaway. 

Fitted with a dark brown, crocodile leather strap, it would look sublime with a red suit shirt for that important dinner or black cashmere jumper for those occasions where a suit shirt is too formal. This one has really got our timekeeping taste buds tingling.

You can buy a Grand Seiko Urushi Maki-e at retail for £27,950 at the time of writing.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02

 

The Royal Oak collection is the heavy hitters of Audemars Piguet’s portfolio.

 

Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin - Source - Audemars Piguet

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Released in 1972 under the careful gaze of Gerald Genta, this was the first collection that became the epitome of luxury sports models. Don’t be misled in thinking the word “sports” somehow means this isn’t a beautiful dress timepiece. It doesn’t let Genta down in that respect.

Crafted out of white gold and sized at 39mm, the extraordinary size comes in the form of the thickness of the case. At 8.1mm thick, this is the ideal size for a dress model, yet it has sports heritage which is both bizarre, yet shows how it is incredibly versatile. 

Given a dial that’s not too dissimilar from a moonlight sky, the Royal Oak is as hot as the scorching heatwaves in Europe and a great addition to the dressy world. The finish is gleaned through a grainy blue dial which offers a massive change from the standard tapisserie dial that the Royal Oak collection usually prides itself on. 

Given white gold indices to keep up with the case material, they are applied and match the similarly golden Royal Oak hands. Coated with luminescence, the model is perfect for visibility. Who knows, those dressy evenings may turn into drunken mishaps late at night!

The bracelet is famously integrated and is similarly crafted out of 18K white gold, as well as the similarly iconic octagonal bezel fixed with 8 screws. 

Powered by the movement 7121, this particular movement offers a very hardy frequency of 28,800VpH with 52 hours of power reserve. Powering the general timekeeping and a small date aperture located at 3 o’clock, we are no doubt in very good hands with this movement. 

It’s unique dial design and white gold construction means this model is perfect for an office dinner, black tie event or impressing your other half sipping cocktails. 

You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02 for £67,300 at the time of writing.

 

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Copper Dial

 

Looking as fresh as a daisy and sharp has never been so easy with a dial as coppery as your pipe work.

 

Laureato 38mm - Source - Girard Perregaux

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But this one blows the copper hue out of the water. At 38mm, the Girard-Perregaux case is a continuation of the famed Laureato complication which dates back to 1975. This is one of those occasions where a dress timepiece is bolstered with a beautiful steel case.  

Crafted out of stainless steel, the Laureato’s case is rather slinky at 10mm, allowing it to slip on your wrist and under cufflinks with consummate ease. Given a coppery dial sheen, the sunray effect and stylish Clous de Paris pattern means that light has full control of the dials colour. 

Depending on the light source and its location, the dial changes in shade, meaning you could look bright and upbeat in the sun, while more relaxed and easy going in a more ambient setting. 

Furthermore, even though the Clou de Paris effect is used to alter the light situation, it looks immense in terms of it’s design as it’s composed of miniscule pyramids, offering a very hypnotic effect. 

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Moving on to the baton markers and hands, these are given the same steely allure as the case, allowing for coherency across the timepiece. The marker situated at 3 o’clock is replaced with a small date aperture that’s given a copper background like the dial. Featuring a brushed hexagonal bezel atop a similar brushed case, the Laureato Copper Dial does have a sporty edge, allowing this dress model to be extremely versatile. 

Powered by the movement GP03300, the movement offers 28,800VpH and a fairly reliable power reserve of 46 hours. Although just short of enjoying weekend-proof status, it gives you sufficient time to show this arm candy off to friends and family alike.

Given a stainless steel strap, it is perfect for going to the Opera with your loved one in a navy blue suit, or picking up your award as “Top Dog” at the end of year awards ceremony. 

You can buy a Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Copper Dial at retail for £12,700 at the time of writing.

 

Chopard L.U.C 1860 168860-3003

 

Chopard are well known for slew of show stopping and pricey timepieces such as the Chopard 201 Carat, valued at around £20 million. Not to worry, not all of them are exorbitantly priced; plus you won’t need to sell the entire contents of your house!

 

L.U.C 1860 - Source - Reddit

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The L.U.C 1860 case measures 36.5mm which is an ideal size for those looking to buy a watch with sleek aesthetics. Crafted out of Chopard’s own Lucent steel, the case’s material is 50% harder than steel, antiallergenic and given a fabulous glean, resulting in a beautiful incandescence. 

A contender as one of our best salmon dials which is extremely popular at the moment, it is based on top of a golden base. Undergoing a guilloche aesthetic, the dial is beautiful to look at, but not overly gaudy due to its clarity and simplicity, allowing it to be labelled as one of the best dress models.

Featuring steely hour markers and hands, they clearly stand out from the darker salmon dial. The small seconds based at 6 o’clock rests under the hands without making the dial too busy, especially since it’s given the same colourway as the rest of the dial. 

Powered by the L.U.C 96.40-L movement, it runs at 28,800VpH and has an impressive power reserve of 65 hours. This is down to the L.U.C Twin Technology which comprises two stacked barrels within the movement. COSC certified, you are guaranteed excellent quality and first rate accuracy with this movement. 

Fitted with a grey calfskin strap, the L.U.C 1860 is rather moody which is perfect for evening events. We suggest a similarly grey suit if you are keeping with the strap, or a camel overcoat for those chillier days.

You can buy a Choaprd L.U.C 1860 168860-3003 at retail for £21,100 at the time of writing.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

 

For a luxury brand as fit for the red carpet as Jaeger-LeCoultre, they have set the benchmark for sporty dress editions like the ever so talked about Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

 

Reverso Tribute - Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre

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Crafted out of stainless steel, the case is given the capability of being able to rotate. This was originally done to protect the dial from harm, but now it’s used more as the ultimate fashion statement. Heck if it’s good enough for JLC’s 2023 brand ambassador Lenny Kravitz, you know you are onto a good thing if you are looking for the best dress timepiece. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a key brand for statement pieces. They have realised this and have brought in a sublime backside to this piece with added glitz. The front dial is very formal in its grey blue sheen and accompanying sunray finish. This allows light to bounce across the dial perfectly, offering all manner of shades to the piece. 

The other side of the case shows an openworked dial, revealing the complexity of the movement 860, especially the retrograde chronograph that dwells within the movement. 

While the skeletonised aesthetic could be deemed as too much for a dress watch investment, Jaeger-LeCoultre intelligently gave the movement an array of finishes, such as applied hour markers and the seemingly floating minute track complimented by the bevelled bridges. 

The rectangular case is polished, negating the sporty brushed aesthetic. The Dauphine hands on the dials are staples of the collection and we thoroughly enjoy gazing as they point to the gadroons. The modern skeletonised look, gives the Reverso a new lease of life and allows it to be deemed as one of the best dress pieces.

Jaeger-LeCoultre have finally cracked the time and display indications of a chronograph within a rectangular case on both sides of the timepiece. The movement 860 allows for all of this due to its powerful 28,800VpH and a solid 52 hour power reserve. 

Strapped up with either a beautiful Bleu marine calfskin leather strap or a black version, we are spoilt for choice here. Disclaimer; both are quite dark so the difference isn’t too dramatic, but can be interchanged for a jet black suit to a navy suit. Be it dressing up to the nines for dinner to clinking glasses on a sunset cruise, make sure you’re wrist ready for whatever exploits come your way. 

You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph at retail for £23,900 at the time of writing.

 

Cartier Privé Tank Normale - Yellow Gold

 

Cartier is a huge Swiss luxury brand that is famed for creating the first wrist worn timepiece in 1904 for Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviation pilot who required a timepiece that could quickly be accessed on his wrist. Nowadays it's easily a part of the best dress watch selection.

 

Cartier - Source - Reddit

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The Cartier Tank was founded later on after Louis Cartier came back from war in 1917 and was inspired by the brancards (French for stretcher) of Renault F-17 tanks that he saw on the Western Front. Designed to look like the bird's eye view of a tank from the front of the case, the design has continued in the same vein ever since with numerous iterations.  

Sized at just 32.6mm, the case is exceptionally accessible as a dress watch due to its small layout. The dial follows its predecessors, but also incorporates a few changes. Featuring black Roman numerals over a silver background, the hands are gently blued to keep with the signature blue cabochon on the crown. The cabochon to Cartier is what Snowflake hands are to Tudor. They simply go hand in hand.

For the eagle eyed horologists, you may have noticed a little Easter egg on the model. A close look reveals that the text “1917” is written just beside the “VII” hour marker. As an ode to when the Tank was released, Cartier are masters of blowing their own timekeeping trumpet!

The piece is powered by the in-house movement 070. Unfortunately, it’s not a great performer at just 25,200VpH and the movement has a rather low 38 hour power reserve. However, if you are looking to buy a watch that is beautifully executed in its aesthetics, this might be the dress watch for you.

The brickwork style bracelet is astonishing as it exposes no gaps whatsoever and looks like a layer of pure yellow gold. Made up of 7 links across, the bracelet is a feat of luxury which is perfect for most situations, including business parties in your crisp white suit shirt, or nailing a job interview. 

You can buy a Cartier Prive Tank Normale at retail for around £36,000 at the time of writing.

 

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar 

 

Sometimes complications can be executed very well in a dress watch. Please may we introduce a luxury brand overflowing with grail models, The H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Source - H.Moser & Cie

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Their perpetual calendar graced us in 2006, boasting stunning design and stylish features. For this edition, H.Moser & Cie have raised the boundary even further, releasing a stunning show of quality materials and thoughtful design. 

The case is crafted out of tantalum, which a few of you, if not all, will be wondering what it is. Don’t scratch your head no more as we’ll give you the lowdown. Originally used in the metallic wiring of light bulbs, tantalum was originally used for basically anything other than horology due to its solid properties and unbelievably high melting point. 

H.Moser and Cie are design innovators by trade and are coming up on the inside as a wildly underestimated brand. Have you seen their salmon dial Streamliner model? The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar utilises the tantalum case and all its anti-corrosive skills to create a beautiful circular case. Its colour we can closely relate to “livid” which is a beautiful metallic sheen.

At 42mm, it’s a chunky boy of a dress watch, but it gains back such a status through its very stylish design and minimalist aesthetic. With two curved sapphires on the front and exhibition case back, the eyes are instantly drawn into the ocean blue dial. Not quite Summer Blue like the revamped Omega Ploprof but it’s nonetheless eye-catching.

The dial is finished with excellence in mind, using fumé aesthetics to create a rough blue face and keeping excess down to a minimum with just two black indices at 6 and 12 o’clock, no circular sub dials and just a few hands to represent the small seconds and power reserve,

Crafted out of enamel, the dial is a massive talking point among horological fanatics. It’s so spectacular, that even a fresh faced model lover would feel comfortable boasting this to the world. The hammered enamel face with its Grand Feu finish gets a big tick from us!

Powered by the HMC 800 movement, the movement is deceptively powerful for a piece that looks so otherworldly. While it runs at an okay 18,000VpH, the power reserve is an astonishing 7 days which is top notch for a movement in such a beautiful piece. Visible through the caseback, the movement is finished well and boasts impeccable beauty throughout.

The hand stitched kudu leather strap in a soft grey colour is a perfect match for the Endeavour Perpetual. If you find yourself networking with the business greats or presenting your new idea to revolutionise the world, this is the timepiece you want by your side and on your wrist. 

You can buy a H.Moser & Cie Endeavour at retail for around £69,000 at the time of writing.

 

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date 

 

Dress watches can feature complications, as long as they don’t cramp the style of the piece. 

 

Patrimony - Source - Vacheron Constantin

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For example, while we love the Audemars Piguet Ultra Complication Universelle RD#4 and it’s 23 complications, it does look a little bit too garish when you're flexing your social muscles at an important business meeting. 

Step aside AP as The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date defines elegance with a healthy dose of complication. Crafted at 42.5mm of solid platinum for the case, the timepiece is already off to a highly luxurious start. As you may already know, platinum is extremely in demand due to its rarity in the horological world. 

Undergoing a polished finish throughout, there is no trace of any brushing which could link to sportiness. After all, no one would wear this baby while coughing up your lungs on the treadmill or Tube. Its circular case design has been a staple of the dress watch world, as far back as the 1920s and 30s. Upgrading it with such a rare material, is a major thumbs up from Vacheron Constantin to go all out with your dress attire, especially with such an awe-inspiring case and dial.

The casing leads into a beautiful salmon dial. Salmon is similarly rare in the horological world, although a few top brands are starting to turn to it, such as Patek Philippe with their 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. But hold the front page…we ain't gone fishin yet.

The dial is crafted from pink gold and undergoes a sunburst finish to glean the contrast of lighter and darker elements. Not enough? Why not get spicy with the beautifully finished minute track that is made up of many separate white gold dots that are diamond polished. Slow down, Vacheron Constantin!

The baton indices are white gold hour markers and have been tapered in at the top to allow the retrograde date to take centre stage. Vacheron Constantin does love a bit of self adulation, as noted by the Maltese cross below 12 o’clock. As the official emblem of the brand, they’ve crafted it out of pink gold which has been given a sandblasted finish to beam its exclusivity. 

The hands are similarly crafted out of white gold, like the indices, while the retrograde date hand is blued, keeping with the blue markers of the retrograde date function. The cases fairly big frame allows the retrograde function along the top and bottom of the dial to not be crammed in like those time peeps queuing outside Swatch stores for the latest Moonswatch edition. Whatever will they think of next…a Royal Oak Moonswatch?

The movement 2460 R31R7/3 powers the extraordinary retrograde date functions and allows for the timepiece to run at a strong 28,800VpH. The movement is given an average power reserve of 40 hours while the openworked caseback boasts a Poinçon de Genève stamp on the movement. This pertains to the model's epic quality. 

Given a strap that is casually named a navy Mississippiensis (tongue twister!) alligator leather strap, it links with the blued retrograde functions seamlessly. We recommend adorning a navy suit with this piece for cocktail meetings in Mayfair, linking arms with your partner over a glass of bubbly or entering that new upscale restaurant. 

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date at retail upon request.

 

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G

 

Being the best dressed man in the room is a difficult feat. Having the best dress watch is another completely different horological ball game. Not to worry, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G should be on your buy list.

 

Calatrava - Source - Patek Philippe

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Patek Philippe has been at the helm of highly complicated timepieces since their inception in 1839. Creating the James Ward Packard timepiece in 1927 with 10 complications, it swiftly became the most complicated model of its era. 

Now, the time is ripe for Patek Philippe to delve into the art of dress watches. The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G is a 40mm case of pure white gold. At an accessible 40mm case size, the material is a precious metal, meaning it’s highly valuable and sumptuous in its polished finish. 

The rounded case design is typical of dress watches and pays homage to the collection stemming back to 1932. Think funky design can only be found on the face? The flanks of the case undergo a gorgeous Clous de Paris hobnail pattern which offers a whole new dynamic to the timepiece. 

The dial is a highly exciting piece of horology. The textured face is given a charcoal style shade, which is only skin to the surface of the moon with all its bumps! Its finely grained aesthetic is bolstered with a matte black minute track around the periphery. 

The classical style of the Calatrava, means the minute track follows the design style of Chemin de fer, or English Railroad to the natives. These little nods or winks to the past, summarise the model as a truly great timepiece, designed to celebrate the eclectic past of the collection.

The Arabic numerals are crafted out of white gold too and finished with a healthy dose of beige luminescence. They are incredibly legible against the textured face, even more so with the luminescence. 

The hands are rather unorthodox as they are shaped like syringes. Similarly crafted out of white gold and dosed with luminescence they sweep over the sheen accurately and are noticeable straight away. The small date aperture positioned at 3 o’clock is a nice feature and is kept silently stowed away to help the minimalist aesthetic.

Running on the movement 26-330 S C, the movement itself is visible through the caseback, allowing us to see the emblazoned 21K gold rotor. Given a Gyromax and Spiromax balance and balance spring, the movement is certified with a Patek Philippe Hallmark seal, guaranteeing the Calatrava’s immense quality. 

Dancing at 28,800VpH with a power reserve of 45 hours, this movement is up and ready for your dressy night outs on the town, lasting you well into the night. Adorned with a hand stitched beige calfskin strap with a nubuck finish and fabric pattern embossment, the strap is as beautiful as a well worn pair of leather boots. 

We think you’d look sharp wearing a beige suede jacket for those after work drinks, or going all out at a Charity Gala with a textured black suit.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G at retail for £32,380 at the time of writing.

 

Longines Master Collection L2.843.4.93.2

 

Last year, Longines gave the horological world a big grin when they celebrated 190 years of their presence. 

 

Master Collection - Source - Longines

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Releasing three Longines to update The Master Collection (all dutifully named 190th Anniversary), these timepieces all developed the collections in just the dial style alone. At 41 mm case size, they have engraved numerals or tidy brushed faces. Now, we are in 2023, and Longines think it’s time to continue the revitalisation of the Master Collection. We say, bring it on!

Slashed down to a 38.5mm case size, they are clearly referencing this timepiece as a dress number due to the drop from the more sporty 41mm case size. Crafted out of steel that's polished throughout the case, the timepiece is sleek and not ostentatious. With a 10.2mm thickness, you should have no issues slipping the case under some shirt cuffs when patting your buddies on the back after that Jordan Belfort style client win.

The front is again the centre of conversation. While the same level of detail is there in terms of the brushed aesthetic and slightly grained allure, the new salmon face is highly attractive and boasts the vertical lines even further due to its lighter complexion. 

The Arabic numerals are Breguet influenced and slightly sunken due to them being engraved in. Filled in with a black colouring to enhance their legibility, they match the hands which are similarly a black sheen.

A new small seconds counter is added at 6 o’clock which is a handy complication, not to mention a nice added visual perspective. The minute track on the periphery is given a polished sunburst dynamic, creating a visible difference between the track and the rest of the front.

The L893 movement is bang on in terms of what you’d expect of a timepiece as beautiful as this. Offering an unorthodox 25,200 VpH, the movement has a 72 hours power reserve which is more than enough for a boozy weekend where you can’t risk losing your Longines!

The black alligator leather strap is given a triple safety folding clasp and a push piece mechanism, linking to the security of the strap, not to mention its extremely comfortable leather material. 

We reckon you’d be the Belle of the ball if you adorned this with a pinstripe suit for that very formal link up with the boss. If you need to look more casual, a simple black suit shirt will do for an evening out or stroll along golden sands. Go forth you party animal!

You can buy a Longines Master Collection L2.843.4.93.2 at retail for £2,250 at the time of writing.

 

IWC Portofino Automatic IW356504

 

IWC’s Portofino collection has been on the go since 1984, when it featured a circular gold case, a matte face and a few complications along with Roman numeral indices. As far as pilot pieces are concerned, they certainly came, saw and conquered thanks to the Mark series

 

Portofino - Source - IWC

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Not much has changed, truth be told. But why teach an old dog new tricks? The circular case style still remains while the precious metal build is still an option for the collection. However, there’s something about this IWC Portofino Automatic IW356504 that’s just astounding. Truly outstanding.

Crafted out of 18K 5N rose gold, the case oozes luxury, especially since its 40mm case size is built in that classic rounded case. It is silver plated with a matte white finish on top, boasting the perfect canvas for sleek indices to play. 

Featuring golden, baton style indices at all but 12 and 6 o’clock which are made up of Roman numerals, the IWC Portofino face is fresher than your Monday morning pre-work latte. This is certainly not your average cup of Joe. The hands are similarly crafted out of yellow gold in keeping with the refined aesthetic. 

The minute track hovers on the periphery and consists of small black lines which contrast with the creamy face. There’s a small date aperture at 3 o’clock which is handy for the modern man who needs to get all his bearings in next to no time!

The slim feuille hands and similarly tight indices hark to the uncluttered front that’s become so popular with enthusiasts. For the horological historians among us, you may believe that the model is shaped like a pocket piece. And you’d be absolutely spot on!

The IWC Portofino’s design follows back to the 1970s where the Lepine pocket model was a massive influence for the luxury brand. Then being released in 1984, The Portofino was the main collection that clearly followed the design codes of the pocket timepiece.

While we don’t have the pleasure of being able to see the movement through an exhibition caseback, we do get to enjoy the pleasures of a stunning solid caseback. Taking inspiration from the deck of a ship at a Portofino harbour, the engraved image follows the fishing village and all its relaxed vibes. I think I can smell sea air…

Powered by the 35111 movement, the movement is automatic and runs at an excellent 28,800VpH. The movement has a 42 hour power reserve, offering central hacking seconds and a date aperture. Fitted with a dark brown alligator strap, the fabric is both supple like a new pair of Christian Louboutin heels and very secure on your wrist. 

Trust us, this is not coming off in a hurry. It offers a moody dimension to the bright white and shiny rose gold case which can be seen on the 18K 5N gold pin buckle. We believe that this timepiece is perfect for attending big meetings on entrepreneurship expos or sailing your own schooner to the glorious Portofino bay. All we ask is you look the part with a white suit shirt or white tee.

You can buy an IWC Portofino Automatic IWC356504 at retail for £11,100 at the time of writing.

 

Conclusion

 

Owning a dress watch doesn't have to be a strenuous activity. Now that you are all up to date with the best dress watches around, you get the fun part of choosing the ones that really turn you on! Of course, if none of these take your fancy or doesn’t grind your gears or silicon hairspring for that matter, as always, why not consider a couple more on the house in the form of this handy table;

 

MODEL

REFERENCE

MATERIAL

DIAL COLOUR

PRICE (AS OF AUGUST 2023)

Rolex Sky Dweller

336935

Everose Gold

Turquoise

Price on Request

Omega De Ville

434.53.41.21.10.001

Yellow Gold

Dark Green

£12,900

Longines Flagship

L4.984.4.79.2

Steel

Cream

£1,750

Vacheron Constantin Historiques

4200H/222J-B935

Yellow Gold

Gold

£71,000

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

26396NB.OO.D002KB.01

Black Ceramic

Black

Price on Request

 

So, you have a few more options available to you, Timelords. You could join in with modernity and go with the Rolex 1908, or get yourself an iconic piece of timekeeping history like the Cartier Tank. The latter is so entrenched in history that you may be accidentally transported back in time! Wait a minute, Cartier. 

Are you telling me you have constructed a time machine out of a Tank Normale? Being stylish with a dress watch has never been so easy when Chrono Hunter is on your side. Dress watches are not going the way of the Dodo. In fact, history tells a tale of phenomenal design and style that is being modernised with the latest movements to date. 

With styles being reimagined and altered to suit the modern gentleman, the dress watch category has expanded beyond a niche marketplace. Our guide on the best dress watches for any swanky event has gone from limitless expense of the highly regarded Vacheron Constantin Patrimony to the fresh faced Rolex 1908, out and ready to stake a claim in the dress watch world.

Featuring a variety of very exciting materials and dial styles, we have procured the best timepieces for you to drool over. Now, we should probably clarify the best place for you to get your hands on such timepieces!

We hope you have enjoyed perusing our best dress watches for any swanky event. Now, the only thing left to mention is where you can source these beauties.



Can't wait to buy a Rolex 1908? Looking for the best possible prices in a secure and friendly environment with a quick turnaround? Why not save time and chat with Chrono Hunter here. Check out our top notch reviews on Trustpilot and discover why we are the go-to place to buy a watch or sell a watch

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Further Reading: 

The Ultimate Watch Collection For Under £60,000 - Tudor Black Bay, Rolex Daytona

A Collection Of The Very Best Luxury Watches From Wimbledon 2023

Chrono Hunter Compares Rolex and Audemars Piguet - Which Is Best?

 

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