The Top 12 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men

 

For generations, Patek Philippe has been widely considered one of the world’s most prestigious luxury watch manufacturers. Collectors, auctioneers, retailers and even those with just a minor passing interest in horology are all certain to agree.

However, ask the same watch aficionados to name their favourite Patek Philippe models and it’s likely that you’ll receive a multitude of different answers.

For that reason, we're going to break it down and talk about Chrono Hunters top 12 most popular Patek Philippe watches. 

Just before we get into the watches, the reason why fans of luxury timepieces have a hard time reaching a general consensus on what makes the best Patek Philippe watch is perhaps testament to the brand’s varied and eclectic portfolio.

With Patek Philippe, there are different watches to suit different preferences and requirements. It’s often the case that a watch that is revered by one collector might not be on the radar of another.

Despite this, there is a selection of classics that tend to attract the attention of watch lovers, both at auction and on the wider secondary market. In this article, we’re going to focus on twelve of the most sought-after Patek Philippe watches for men, and take a detailed look at what makes each of them so special:

 

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A Blue Dial

 

You probably guessed that this watch would make it on to the list of most popular Patek Philippe watches, The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A has long been one of the world’s most desirable steel sports watches. As of 2021, it’s about to get a whole lot more sought-after, as Patek Philippe has confirmed that the model has now been discontinued.

In many respects, the Nautilus 5711/1A was a victim of its own commercial success. It is arguably the most popular Patek Philippe watch of the 21st century, and potentially the most sought-after Patek Philippe watch of all time.

Initially created as a sports watch back in 1976, the Nautilus attracted attention due to its distinctive design.

The bezel of the Nautilus is neither rectangular nor round, but somewhere in between. It's large 42mm diameter, curved outward sides and attractive blue dial were all game-changers, and by 2006 the definitive version arrived in the form of the 5711/1A - a model which is now one of the most sought-after luxury watches in the world.

In recent years the waiting list for the 5711/A has reached hitherto unseen lengths of up to ten years at some retailers - a significant example of the demand for this watch as a luxury item.

Whilst there has since been a new release of this watch with a green dial, it doesn’t take a genius to figure out what the discontinuation of its current iteration has done to prices on the secondary market, which now sit way above retail value for the navy-blue dial model.

Retail price: £25,000

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £70,000+

 

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001

 

The Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001 is a very popular watch and had to be included in this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. The 5990 was one of the first Patek Phillipe’s to bring chronograph functionality to the wrist, and it can also display two time-zones at once.

This level of engineering is enough to make it sought-after on the secondary market, particularly when you consider it’s a more affordable model than other Patek’s which offer the same functions.

Making its debut in 2014, the 5990/1A-001 has been in high demand ever since. Part of the reason for its success lies in the fact that Patek Philippe stayed true to designer Gerald Genta’s vision for the original Nautilus.

On the 5990/1A-001, the watchmaker has implemented some very understated changes which proved popular with collectors, including an ever-so-slight rounding of the hinges which frame the dial, in conjunction with a three-part case.

While at first glance this might look like a run-of-the-mill Nautilus, additional changes like a slightly larger steel case help to distinguish it from previous incarnations. Despite the increased profile, the 5990/1A-001 still retains a compact and slim profile and is a joy to wear.

Fans of tradition will be pleased to find that this model features the familiar Nautilus pattern which has been horizontally embossed in much the same way as the original. Traditional design touches like a counterweight used by both chronograph hands help to endear this watch to purists.

It’s also reassuring to see that the chronograph hands share the same lancet shape – a simple way of informing the wearer that each hand is part of the same complication.

Like all steel Nautilus models, it’s incredibly difficult to come by the 5990/1A-001 via the authorised channels. As a result, it commands a high price tag on the secondary market, and demand has never particularly waned since its launch – even during times of economic downturn.

Retail price: £40,800

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £88,000 + 

 

Patek Philippe Nautilus Self-Winding Rose Gold 5712R-001

This luxurious take on the Nautilus pairs perfectly with formal attire, and with a beautiful rose gold finish, it’s difficult for friends and colleagues not to take notice. The 5712R-001 features a self-winding mechanical movement, making use of Patek’s 240 PS IRM C LU caliber complete with a power reserve indicator.

Ultimately, this makes the Nautilus 5712R-001 as technically impressive as it is visually stunning. Its black-brown dial features gold applied hour markets complete with a luminescent coating to make it sufficiently readable in low-light settings, while the rose gold case boasts a screw-down crown and sapphire crystal case back. It is also water-resistant up to 60 metres.

Like other Nautilus models, the 5712R-001 sits relatively large at 40mm, with a height of 8.52mm. However, the streamlined design helps it to appear compact on the wrist. To finish, a dark brown alligator strap with a fold-over clasp contrasts well with the rose gold, further denoting luxury and class.

As we’ve established, most Nautilus models are hugely in-demand, and the 5712R-001 is no exception. This dressy number sits firmly on the wish lists of many a luxury watch aficionado, which is why it could not be excluded from this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. 

Retail price: £38,440

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £62,000

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001

 

This beautiful timepiece is the complete travel companion, making it perfectly suited for summer adventuring. At first glance, the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 appears to be an update on the Nautilus 5990, but without a 60-minute chronograph complication installed.

The steel case measures 40.8mm and utilises Patek Philippe’s signature rounded octagonal design. A satin-brushed and highly polished finish exudes pure class, and the embossed black dial with a slight brownish hue is understated yet reassuringly formidable.

Dual time zones indicating local and home times use white and blue apertures respectively – with the local time displayed on the date indicator.

With water resistance of up to 120 metres, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 isn’t just built for show – it's the sort of watch that will stand you in good stead whether you’re delivering presentations, letting your hair down on a beach in Bali or skiing the slopes of Verbier.

This watch is a Chrono Hunter firm favourite and holds a solid place in this list of most popular Patek Philippe watches, it'll take something really special for this one to lose its spot. 

Retail price: £25,000

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £49,000

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010

 

No comprehensive list of the best Patek Philippe watches for men would be complete without the 5168G-010 in striking khaki green.

This jumbo version of the Aquanaut measures 42.2mm and boasts a warm green dial that many horology fans consider more olive than khaki – but regardless of how you want to classify it, there can be no denying that it’s a sumptuous, attractive watch that is simultaneously trendy and technical.

A matching green rubber strap complete with folding clasp makes this watch practically unmissable on the wrist. It’s a great all-rounder which combines a white gold case, luminous hour markers and hands, water-resistance of 120 metres and a 324 S C caliber to create a sporty yet classy number - arguably something of an anomaly among Patek Philippe’s catalogue.

For this reason alone, the Aquanaut 5168G-010 is considered by many to be the best Patek Philippe watch, and the prices it can command on the secondary market certainly back this up.

Retail price: £25,000

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £60,000

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001

Credit: Patek Phillipe

While some Patek Philippe models are built for ruggedness, others are designed as indicators of success. The Aquanaut 5167R-001 certainly falls into the latter category, this watch can truly be considered a luxury timepiece and certainly one that deserves a place on this list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches.

Boasting an 18K rose gold case, familiar octagonal bezel and sapphire crystal, chocolate dial and ornately applied Arabic numeral indices, the 5167R-001 is a watch to be treasured. However, it’s not just visually impressive: with a 45-hour power reserve thanks to the 324 S C caliber, Patek Philippe has pulled out all the stops to create a timepiece which is a statement of accomplishment.

It looks great, is built to last, and is hugely in demand, which makes owning one all the more special if you can.

Retail price: £25,770

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £31,900

 

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001

Credit: Patek Phillipe

 

This list of most the popular Patek Philippe watches would not be complete without Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, it has long been a contentious topic of discussion among horology fans. Some dismiss it as too radical, while others consider it ahead of its time.

Whatever your opinion on this divisive design, there can be no denying that the 5524R-001 iteration, with its warm brown dial and rose gold finish, is a sure-fire winner in the looks department.

Apart from the materials, nothing much has changed in comparison to the contentious 5524 model. As a pilot’s watch, it may feel like something of a novelty for Patek Philippe – but one look should be enough to change your mind. The inclusion of a calfskin strap in matte brown, which utilises a three-piece fastening system, only ups the elegance factor.

As a beautifully executed timepiece, the 5524R-001 has proved the naysayers of the original Calatrava Pilot Travel Time wrong. It pairs well with almost any outfit, features prominent, contemporary and legible gothic numerals, and remains hot in demand among horology enthusiasts.

It’s not the cheapest Patek on the market, but then again, it’s far from the simplest: the 5524R-001 is enhanced by an innovative Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax free-sprung balance wheel, which means it offers precision timing and a tolerance of no more than +2 seconds per day.

For those who want the perfect combination of elegance and accuracy, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 is an ideal choice.

Retail price: £37,300

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £41,440

 

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 5905P

Source: Patek Phillipe

 

Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar Chronograph had long staked its place as one of the brand’s most popular designs, and this 2015 update is a modern, sporty update on an old classic. The dial is made up of concentric circles – one of which outlines the minute scale on the perimeter, with the other circumscribing the hour markers.

Super-luminescent hands make night-time reading a breeze, and the perfectly-matching navy dial and strap complement each other beautifully.

This iteration of the Annual Calendar Chronograph features a 60-minute counter positioned at 6 o’clock, and the stop, start and reset options are column-wheel driven. Within the 59095P-001 sits a CH 28 520 QA 24H caliber, which utilises circular dressage to match the 21k gold rotor finish.

This is a nice departure from the use of Geneva stripes in previous models.

Ultimately, Patek Philippe has amalgamated style and functionality perfectly on the Annual Calendar Chronograph 5905P-001. It sits well on the wrist and is perfect for those on-the-go or in the workplace.

Although we'd consider this watch one of the best and most popular Patek Philippe watches you'll be happy to know that at present, it’s possible to pick up a 5909P-001 for slightly less than retail value, but for how long? Time will surely tell.

 

Retail price: £59,000

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £52,800

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001

Source: Patek Phillipe

 

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001 is a high-functioning watch that practically does it all. Unsurprisingly, it’s also incredibly difficult to come by.

Launched at Baselworld back in 2016, this rose gold version of the classic Aquanaut is among the most sought-after luxury timepieces in the world. Depending on who you speak to, it’s even considered the “Holy Grail” of Patek Philippe designs - which is great news if you have got one to sell.

The 5164R-001 contains a 324 S C FUS caliber which boast an automatic 4Hz movement and 45-hour power reserve. This caliber also utilises a rather clever dual-time function, which can be controlled by a pair of pushers on the left side of the case.

The skeletonised travel-time hour hand can be hidden beneath the main hour hand when at home, and easily transitioned when in another time zone.

Of course, Patek Philippe lovers will understand that this sort of functionality is nothing new for the brand – it actually dates back to the 60s – but it’s a nuanced and nostalgic addition to a modern model nonetheless.

This functionality combines with a luxurious rose gold finish to deliver a watch which is as desirable as it is practical which is why it is considered one of the most popular Patek Philippe watches. 

Retail price: £44,810

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £68,000 + 

 

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-001

Source: Patek Phillipe

 

The Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is the nadir of complicated watchmaking at Patek Philippe. This model is the first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph to feature a platinum case, which pairs exceedingly well with a salmon dial.

Those with an interest in Patek Philippe watches will understand that platinum models are usually more coveted than their gold counterparts, and the 5270P-001 is no exception.

Materials aside, there is little from a design perspective to distinguish this model from the standard 5270. Our understanding is that Patek Philippe has chosen not to mess with perfection. The only discernible difference is that this version features a diamond which has been carefully set between the bottom lugs – a tell-tale sign of a luxurious platinum Patek piece.

Fans of Patek Philippe watches will also be aware that salmon dials are largely reserved for exclusive collector’s items. On the 5270P-001 it works perfectly, and contrasts well with the blackened gold elements adorning the dial. The 5270P-001 is also notable as the first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph to make use of Arabic numerals.

This results in a slightly less streamlined appearance but certainly provides the watch with more character.

The 5270P-001 is powered by the same movement found in the original 5270 model: the CH29-535 PS Q. This 33-jewel, 456-part movement marks the end of Patek Philippe’s reliance on Lemania-based movements and offers a power reserve of up to 65 hours when the chronograph is disengaged.

Retail price: £134,000

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £130,780

 

Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001

Source: Patek Phillipe

 

Unveiled back in 2013, Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001 first turned heads as the brand’s most complicated wristwatch of all time. While it bears a lot of similarities with the original (5002) Sky Moon Tourbillon, the ornate casework and dial work are enough to make this timepiece one of the most sought-after Patek Philippe designs of the past decade.

Like the 5002, the 6002G-001 features two dials and 13 complications. Both watches also possess two cathedral gongs, a minute repeater and a tourbillon. There’s little difference in terms of functionality either, as both display standard time, a perpetual calendar and moon phases.

On the rear, the dials feature astronomical functions, with the ability to display the northern sky and angular progression. However, the 6002G-001 goes one better and makes use of apertures in place of hands to display days, weeks, months and leap years.

The biggest differences between the 5002 and the 6002G-001 are largely aesthetic. Upon its release, Patek Philippe referred to this model as a “sculpture for the wrist” - and with a single glance, it’s easy to see what they meant. Eloquent ornamental carvings, arabesque garlands and curved elements combine to deliver an incredibly precise case.

During the manufacturing process, involuntary movements or brief distractions would ruin the case, resulting in it having to be recreated from scratch. This level of attention to detail assures the place of the 6002G-001 as one of the finest Patek Philippe’s on the market.

In total, over one-hundred hours of craftsmanship are invested into the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G-001, with each engraving being met with the individual approval of the firm’s president Thierry Stern.

Retail price: £1,750,000

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £2,680,000

 

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5916J-001

Source: Patek Phillipe

 

Last but certainly not least the Patek Philippe Calatrava is considered by many to be the best dress watch of all time – and the Calatrava 5916J-001 is often referenced as the ultimate interpretation of a modern classic. The case, which measures 37mm, is significantly larger than the original Calatrava.

However, it’s also a lot slimmer, measuring in at just 7.62mm. A flat bezel and integrated lugs ensure that the 5916J-001 offers maximum comfort on the wrist while still looking sharp.

A yellow gold case contrasts nicely with a brown, prong-buckle alligator strap, helping the watch to stand out nicely. It’s perfect for formal occasions but also boasts some serious engineering credentials, with water-resistance of up to 30 metres and a 215 PS manual-winding movement complete with Gyromax balance.

This list of the most popular Patek Philippe watches would not be complete if it did not include a Calatrava. 

Retail price: £16,850

Secondary market value (approximate at the time of writing): £15,075

 

Conclusion

It’s fair to say that Patek Philippe covers a lot of ground among its varied catalogue of luxury timepieces. From rugged diving watches to ornate dress pieces, there is literally something for all watch lovers to enjoy.

From an investment perspective, Patek Philippe models make sound financial sense. As you can ascertain from this article, many of the most popular Patek Philippe watches tend to appreciate in value over time.If you’re looking to buy a Patek Philippe watch to add to your collection or perhaps sell a Patek Philippe watch on the secondary market, you should consider contacting Chrono Hunter today.

Over the years, we’ve forged strong working relationships with the best suppliers and buyers in the UK, and we’ll always endeavour to beat any quoted online price via our network of trusted luxury watch retailers. For further information, please do not hesitate to get in touch.

 

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