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Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 睦 (Mù) Puts Chinese Watchmaking Firmly On The Horological Map

From humble beginnings in 2018, Co-Founders of Atelier Wen, Frenchmen Robin Tallendier and Hong Kong born Wilfried Buiron have dazzled enthusiasts globally, taking their horological cues from Chinese architecture and symbolism.

Embedding its deep-lying heritage and aesthetics into their watches with ornate signature techniques like their écaille de poisson dial pattern, the duo’s initial Perception line in April 2022 sold out quicker than a Zenith El Primero (well almost). 16 hours to be exact.

Off the back of a number of collabs, this time, they return with another sensational piece that’s causing more waves than an Omega Ploprof.

Gentlemen, sit back a minute as we deep dive into the new Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 睦 (Mù)

At A Glance

Following the Piao, Xia and Ying models executed in blue, salmony pink and copper hues, alongside producing the hand-turned tantalum declination during Watches and Wonders 2024 at Beau-Rivage, the brand delivers a new iteration in full grade 5 titanium.
Community led, this is different to previous limited-edition runs where numbers were determined. Instead this annual ‘Millésime’, normally associated with an excellent grape-harvest of a certain year has transcended to this exclusive horological collection.
Consequently, this vintage annual release reinforces the strength, support and solidarity shown by their devoted followers paying respect to the Perception series.
Although bolder, pioneering configurations and accents will be explored in the future, the initial release centres around their iconic line, tipping their hat to the brand’s community spirit for their watches.
Signifying kinship or closeness, the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 睦 (Mù) features many exciting elements that’s been desired nearly as much as a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Tiffany dial.
This includes grade 5 titanium, classic “fish scale” pattern and exquisite hand-turned guilloché dial, engineered on one of Master Cheng Yucai’s mammoth 450kg rose engines.
Their latest purple dial variation incorporates vivid shades, thanks to physical vapour deposition (PVD) that synergises alongside its retro steel integrated sporty allure. Highlights include rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands, a slim 9.4mm case thickness and raised, traditional stone lion emblem on the caseback.

The Art Of Perception

Okay, so Donald Trump may have coined the “Art Of The Deal”.

But how do we paraphrase Atelier Wen’s all encompassing model? Taken from the Latin verb percipere, (you know Chrono Hunter brings you as much detail as their new purple guilloché dial!), perception is the procedure of gathering (perceptio), organising and interpreting sensory information or data. This is in relation to a former experience and current requirements.

Stay with us for a second…

According to Britannica, it is categorised as; “the way you think about or understand someone or something. And this is precisely what Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron have done through this new novelty.

It gives us plenty of food for thought when it comes to interpreting their ethos and what they represent. That is to say, a different take on Chinese watchmaking, ingrained in their French Sinophile backgrounds and epic design cues. Something invigorating and a breath of fresh air in what is usually stereotyped with a “Made in China” stamp.

It is this shared drive, philosophy and technical artistry, envisioned by Master Cheng Yucai that has elevated Atelier Wen to a higher horological pedestal. This is especially given the prices you would pay for such technical mastery from some of the top luxury brands.

Take for example the new Rolex Perpetual 1908 with ice-blue guilloché dial and an oh so cool price tag of more than £26,000 at retail. Or the Cartier Rotonde in 18k Rose Gold with a stunning silver guilloché dial, Breguet style hands and in-house calibre 1904-PS MC.

Then there’s the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Large Duoface, (Q3832420) that debuted in 2016 with Clous de Paris outer dial and of course its complex guilloché pattern.

Both offer more refinement and elegance than a red carpet at the Emmys. Truth be told, you get what you pay for, when you are talking big boy territory.

However, hold your horses. If you want to buy a watch with intricate craftsmanship that boasts this specific visual concept, Atelier Wen is doing something remarkable in this sphere…and for far less.

As British pop star Jessie J so eloquently proclaimed in one of her songs from 2011;

“It's not about the money, money, money

We don't need your money, money, money

We just wanna make the world dance

Forget about the price tag

Ain't about the, uh, cha-ching, cha-ching

Ain't about the, yeah, ba-bling, ba-bling

Wanna make the world dance

Forget about the price tag”

And there is no doubt that Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron have got the silicon hairsprings on many enthusiasts' necks standing up for all the right reasons. You would be paying significantly more for the level of detail and finishing seen within Atelier Wen’s watches.

Before we jump, like an Omega Aqua Terra 150m 'Ultra Light' Duplantis Edition (named after the Swedish/American world record pole vaulter) into our hands on review of the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’, we must give credit to the man behind the wheel.

How on earth would Jeremy Clarkson manage?

Responsible for doing more turns than a catwalk model at London Fashion Week, by creating their impeccable guilloché dials, he has signalled a new found love and appreciation of what fine Chinese watchmaking is about.

Time to enter the Dragon and discover who exactly is behind the brand’s fiery numbers that have been so well acclaimed.

The Mythical Status Of Master Cheng Yucai

Now this is the stuff that legendary stories were built on. You know what we mean. There’s David and Goliath, Jason and The Argonauts or Richard The Lionheart for starters.

But how about Master Cheng?

Hang on a tick and we will explain…Considered to be the only guilloché master craftsman across the Asian territories and China, this individual, known as Master Cheng YuCai to give him his official full title, utilises an age-old concept that would sit among the most stoic of Chinese tales.

The rose engine.

But where did it all begin for China's sole guilloché Master? Born in Huaiyang, Zoukhou, although he dropped out of school at 14 years old, he ventured to Beijing to seek gainful employment. By the age of 30, his major breakthrough came when undertaking an apprenticeship at an army instrument manufacturing sector.

But then something mesmerising occurred in 2014. A former acquaintance turned up at the factory he was working in, and after a spot of lunch, he casually presented to Master Cheng a rather inanimate object, in the form of a Russian tobacco box.

After all, there’s no smoke without fire.

With a striking wavy guilloché pattern alongside blue enamel, the depth and light transfixed him so much that he was utterly beguiled by the technique.This later evolved into taking up a course from his friend on this remarkable hand engineered design.

“Our partnership with Cheng is not just making dials. I think we are working with Cheng for reasons that go beyond that and what we really like with him is that he has this grand project of actually creating this generation of Guilloché craftsmen in China.”

Robin Tallendier, Co-Founder of Atelier Wen with an exclusive never before heard excerpt from the brand’s documentary series…”Inside The Atelier”

Master Cheng Yucai instantly took flight like an IWC Lake Tahoe Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar, looking to realise his dream. Despite his poor upbringing, like a horological phoenix from the flames he took around $50,000, the equivalent of a Rolex Day-Date in Everose gold, in order to focus on his new found love.

It’s a real overnight sensation you might call it, exactly the same as when Gerald Genta penned the design for the Patek Phillipe Nautilus on a napkin. True story.

Having spread his wings across to Xinmi, more than 430 miles away from Beijing, in the heart of Zhengzhou province, a stark contrast to the Chinese capital's opulent location, embodying more razzamatazz than any Emmys red carpet event.

The serenity is what made Master Cheng Yucai craved where launched himself into the art of guilloché with his own atelier deep down in a cave set among the mountains. And what’s the one thing a master craftsman of this nature requires when getting up and close personal with this intricate skill?

Absolutely no distractions…

But the challenge came when he tried to make this age-old rose engine. Originally developed towards the end of the 1500s, this craft was made famous by Abraham Louis-Breguet who used them to improve his movement, cases and dials.

“If you look at it today, there're maybe 40-ish 50-ish true Guilloché master craftsmen in the world, but Cheng is taking about more than 10 apprentices, so maybe in five years we will have 12 Chinese Guilloché master craftsmen…maybe in 10 years we'll have 20, and maybe in 50 years we'll have a thousand of them…I find that absolutely thrilling and amazing [for us to be a part of].”

Robin Tallendier, CEO and Co-Founder of Atelier Wen

Although legend has it, this technique began prior to this. There are records of a hand turned rose box decorated with a picture of Anne of Cleves, dating back to around 1539, housed in the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Let’s face it, everyone wants to create their own history…even in the watch world. And this is precisely what Master Cheng Yucai strives for.

With no assistance from Sir Tim Berners-Lee or textbooks to hand, the task was as arduous as hunting down a Richard Mille RM 055 Bubba Watson. Nigh on impossible. But this didn’t stop him. So the first rose engine machine was made in the space of twelve months, but sadly this did not function correctly.

As Kate Bush said to Peter Gabriel in 1986, “Don’t Give Up”.

And he didn’t stop for a second, despite working flat out every day for more than 15 hours! As 2016 approached, he had constructed two additional rose engines. Yet again, there were faults and a myriad of problems.

Two years later, Master Cheng Yucai had finally cracked it after three prototypes…a fully workable machine with the majority of the components made by the blood, overwhelming sweat and tears of the man himself.

But he didn’t stop there. Perfection personified, five years later he went on to manufacture a seventh rose engine, producing only horizontal or vertical designs. With four working machines that he rightfully claims as his own, he has the opportunity to engrave around one thousand different types of patterns.

Now opening up the horological sphere to individuals wanting to learn under Master Cheng’s tutelage, they have to show a methodical work method and tireless perseverance to literally master this unforgiving and relentless technique of guilloché.

With 4 apprentices to date, Atelier Wen is without question moving in the right circles thanks to the champion of the rose engine machine. It is these poetic excavations and elevations that are the foundations of the Master Guillocheur of Xinmi, resonating in this most skilful of Métier d'Arts.

Did You Know…

Robin Tallendier has an impressive timekeeping track record, being former member of the French Chamber of Watchmaking in Shanghai as well as “Execution Expert” in the China Horologe Association (中国钟表协会), responsible for promoting the Chinese watch industry.

You Spin Me Right Round

So how on earth are the guilloché dials on every Atelier watch produced? A rigorous process that kicks Jaeger-Lecoultre’s 1000 hours test firmly into touch,

With more table turning than a Fatboy Slim set, Master Cheng Yucai works tirelessly to create the guilloché dial, involving plenty of grit and endless hours of concentration. Thirty-six to be exact. That’s right, a day and a half is what it takes to manufacture these sensational finishes..

This typical “Sunmao” dial is brimming with depth which is down to not one but four levels of depth, produced by “friction/imbrication via mortise and tenon joints”. Meanwhile, factor in the authentic Chinese pattern effect running along the minute track, known as huiwen.

Taking around ten hours to complete, the rose engine machine cannot be left for more than fifteen minutes at any given time. This is detail on an epic scale. And the margin of error is less than 1mm…as little as around 0.5mm-0.8mm. Don’t believe me? I’ll let none other than Master Cheng Yucai explain here.

With copper imported from Japan, known for its rigid properties, the dedication to this lost but not forgotten manual art is somewhat mystical. Coupled with an extremely high rejection rate, one subtle slip or off kilter faux-pas could mean game over instantaneously.

The fact the brand shipped across one of these monster machines at Watches and Wonders 2024, weighing hundred of kilos is testament to the lengths Master Cheng Yucai will go to showcase the creme de la creme of Chinese watchmaking.

In fact, the experimentation with purple dials, trialled during one of the best luxury watch events on the planet saw a clamour among enthusiasts for these tantalising tantalum prototypes. Low and behold, it took next to no time to decipher that this was the ideal method to give back to the community.

The result is their latest offering that puts a whole new slant on vintage. Start the clock as we go hands on with the new ‘Millésime’ in terrific titanium.

Personality Of The Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’

So what do we know so far?

In effect, on first glance there are cues, however subtle, to the instantly recognisable Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Harking to the same design codes as the original with a 40mm case diameter, the 9.4mm thickness is super slim meaning it can transcend all manner of situations…and outfits.

Ideal for special occasions, boardroom meetings or black tie affairs, it can easily fit under a shirt cuff which is a great touch. In fact, it is not overpowering given its sleekness and is actually only 1mm more than a 34mm Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

On the wrist, it is extremely light thanks to the titanium case while the radiating guilloché dial imbues a real sense of heritage, finesse and uniqueness…if purple is your thing.

The flanks on the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ are noticeable with elegant tapering that connects with its prestigious Chinese heritage and architectural cues. As luxury integrated sports steel watches go, this pretty much hits the bullseye.

On to the bracelet and this does benefit from individual chamfering on each side right down to the links with tapering running from 22mm at the lugs to 18mm, located at the clasp. Furthermore, there is a reduced slimming again by 0.4mm seen at the same positions on the strap.

Composed of single H-links, the overall look is one of refinement and elegance with plenty of polishing going on. In addition, they have a micro adjustment system for those gents on the move. This ingenious method can be done by a simple push of the brand logo etched onto the clasp.

By the way, the presentation box is just as impressive with folding on each side to reveal among other elements a snazzy holder for your timepiece, small screwdriver and a miniscule guide to the brand.

On top, there is a generous dose of SuperLuminova X1 to the chapter ring, not to mention the rhodium-plated leaf shaped hands. In low lighting, this comes out well, illuminating quite literally, the key Chinese hallmarks that makes this brand one to watch.

By doing this, it gives you slightly more wiggle room when dashing from meeting to late night cocktail bar. As per previous inceptions, the purple guilloché dial takes centre stage with its intricate detailing and the way it catches light from the faceted angles is something you will want to show off.

Although this can be traced back to 1680 when Pierre Duhamel created the first ever timepiece to contain this technical skill, Master Cheng Yucai has re-introduced this technique to a new audience, to the extent he has produced other watches for a host of Swiss brands which has gone unrecognised.

Preferring to remain unnoticed, it is this mind-boggling complexity and understatedness that is reflected in these wonderful purple watches.

What We Like

+ Bags of personality, sophistication and an awe-inspiring guilloché dial crafted by Master Cheng Yucai.

+ Chinese infused emblems with authentic stone lion motif etched onto the caseback

+ Fully integrated bracelet and case made from grade 5 titanium ensuring feather light wearability.

+ Top marks for comfort meaning it is an ideal solution as an everyday driver or enhancing a look for something more formal.

What We Don’t Like

- Some may quibble over the generic Tungsten rotor.

- There are more recognised contenders out there, at similar prices like Christopher Ward or a 38mm Breitling Endurance Pro, with COSC certification (£2,750 as of October 2024)

Official Specs: Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime

Case Diameter	40mm (37mm at its narrowest)
Case Thickness	9.4mm
Case Material	Grade 5 Titanium
Dial Colour	Purple guilloché
Indices	Rhodium-plated
Clasp Style	Deployant with micro-adjustment on the fly system (patent pending)
Anti-Reflective Coating	10 layers
Super-Luminova	X1 Grade
Water Resistance	100m (10ATM)
Lug to Lug Width	47mm
Vph	28,800 (4Hz)
Limited Edition	Only available between 7th-21st October
Weight	87 grams

Dandong SL1588A Movement

The beating heart of the new Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ this premium calibre is unashamedly Chinese. But hang on a minute. Don’t be put off dear horophiles.

Ok, so brands such as Sea-Gull and Ebohr produce circa 800,000 watches annually. And there may be a certain stigma associated with premium movements of this being, the gap is closing between them and their German or Swiss counterparts.

That all changed with the Liaoning Peacock Watch Company. Established in 1957, the same year as the debut of, The Speedmaster, this is home to the production of Atelier Wen’s highly decorated pulsating movements.

Nicknamed in former years as the “Geneva Of The Orient”, they have refined their output, concentrating their attention nowadays on tourbillons and chronographs. Pushing the timekeeping boundaries, a pioneering facility was then opened in 2023, adjacent to their old building the Dandong Watch Industrial Park.

With sprawling, manicured gardens, superb facilities and displaying the best of Japanese, Swiss and Chinese innovation, Peacock has been the brand’s go-to partner, making moves since 2017 as part of their Porcelain Odyssey collection.

They have spearheaded the drive toward producing their high beat mechanical movements what we see today inside their latest timekeeping treat - the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ in grade 5 titanium

Furthermore, there is the drop-testing with adjustments in 5 positions that takes in numerous conditions from hot to cold and ambient. The movement is then carefully scrutinised for a period of 48 hours before departing before being tested by the Horological Institute of Light Industry (HRILI)

So what lies inside for avid connoisseurs? There’s exquisite finishes featuring circular Côtes-de-Genève, perlage and generous anglage. On top of this, you have a Tungsten rotor in purple rhodium plating with fully polished jewel and screw sinks, as well as heat-blued screws.

The partially open caseback reveals an integral part of ancient Chinese heritage, highlighting the stone lion motif (shishi). Located at the entrance to many buildings, both Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron wanted to make sure wearers took pleasure in the miniscule window on the caseback.

Spanning across a variety of cities and towns, they make up a distinctive element of the country's renowned tradition and history.

Believed to be a guardian for the rich and powerful, their characteristics are as instantly recognizable as a Cartier Santos-Dumont while according to the dualism of yin and yang there are also male and female lions with the former open mouthed clutching a ball under a paw. This relates to friendship and affection.

And you should already know by now we are in love with this particular piece.

As for some minor tweaks, there is an extension to the power reserve, which used to be 38 hours with an accuracy of (+25/-15). This has been altered by removing the date complication, enhancing the sleek aesthetics to 41 hours with a +/- 10s daily.

Not quite weekend-proof, but you can roar into your boardroom meeting or fine dining restaurant, flexing a highly attractive number with a gorgeous purple guilloché dial.

Official Movement Specs

Number of Jewels	32
Movement Thickness	3.4mm
Anglage	Yes
Côtes de Genève	Yes
Accuracy	+/- 10s per day
Power Reserve	41 hours

Where Can You Buy An Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime?

These pieces will not stick around long and may cause more of a frenzy than the next Moonswatch iteration. Mind you, you’re going to have to be as quick as Yohan Blake if you want to bag one.

Introduced as part of a limited purchasing period of two weeks between the 7th and 21st of October 2024, you can buy an Atelier Perception ‘Millésime’ for $3,588 (£2,730)

Once the period is over…it’s full time. These watches will never be reproduced in any form again! But all is not lost if your’e not in time, as The Millésime editions will return annually, encompassing a wealth of colourways, models, editions and materials.

Further details can be found here.

Tantalum Sweet Treat

It’s about time we shared with you a little teaser.

Gene Wilder in the 1971 film, Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory..with infamous purple jacket. Source: Reddit

Talk about sweets for my sweets. As part of the new Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’, there is going to be quite possibly a world of pure imagination and unbridled joy…for three lucky enthusiasts.

What they are calling “The Tantalum Tickets” this trilogy is hotter than the three Dark Knight movies. You bet your bottom dollar that Batman must return to the shadows post haste. Sure, this new release may be in titanium. But there will be an added horological giveaway, whereby three purchasers of this new execution are set to receive one, completely crafted from tantalum.

Now that’s a turn up for the books…or box. Highly complex and incredibly difficult to work with, to differentiate these watches, the brand has specifically hammered, rolled and shaped a trio of tantalum tickets, placed into three boxes.

Try saying that ten times after a Singapore Sling!

Paying tribute to Roald Dahl’s Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, this is not quite a golden ticket to success rather a tantalum one. Giving back to their loyal community, these prototypes will be hidden away, unleashing Pandora’s box if you will to a universe of discovery.

They will soon become the first brand on the market to boast a complete tantalum model on a bracelet, but this configuration will be unlike any other and not be available on the ordinary market.

88 Is The Magic Number

In most circumstances, we would associate these digits with a night down the bingo hall as British callers love saying “two fat ladies…88”

However, we would be remiss if we didn’t take a look at the significance of this number and its relationship with the new Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’. As another bonus the brand is dishing out another bonus to those purchasers either in the flesh or online early-bird orders.

It seems the first 88 people to buy a watch either online or via pre-ordering at a number of their exhibitions, including at the Wind-Up Watch Fair in New York (18th - 20th October) or

Spring, Sprang, Sprung in Singapore (18th - 20th October) will benefit from a complimentary full-grain integrated leather strap.

Purposely built for the Perception’s case, this one time only offer will never be repeated or sold again.

FUN FACT: As for the numeral chosen, well this just so happens to represent fortune and good luck in Chinese culture. Akin to the word fā (發) that has an implication in Mandarin or Cantonese relating to wealth, the single numeral 8 is deemed the luckiest one, with prices seen in supermarkets in the country containing several of these numbers. And a double eight (88) signals further completeness, especially when seen side by side.

Fortune certainly favours the brave…

What’s Our View?

What’s clearly evident is that Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron are on a mission.

An insatiable quest to raise the level of Chinese watchmaking to places which have never been seen before. No, this is not the timekeeping equivalent of Star Trek and we have not reached the Final Frontier yet. But what they delivered with the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ is making their community and others stand up and take notice.

Quality, accuracy and a touch of grade 5 titanium has made this what’s most likely going to be a sure fire hit. On the flip side, they are competing with major Swiss luxury brands at this price point such as a pre-owned Tudor Black Bay Pro or a new 42mm Longines Legend Diver in stainless steel (£2,350), priced slightly less.

Meanwhile, the Unomat from German brand Meistersinger who will be showcasing their horological goodies for the first time at Watches and Wonders 2025 as a new exhibitor, costs exactly the same at £2,350

Nevertheless, they have raised the bar again with this latest new addition to their popular line, concentrating on elevating Chinese culture, heritage and of course watchmaking. Together with a new found wave of interest, respect for craftsmanship and those looking to buy to diversify their collection.

It’s the clearest sign yet as Bob Dylan declared, that “the times are a-changin.”

Conclusion

We hope we have well and truly changed your “Perception” around Chinese watchmaking. It appears on the surface (and under), these remarkable hand-turned rose engine guilloché dials are shaking things up in the industry.

With a real zest for traditional watchmaking methods, and more passion than an H. Moser x Studio Underd0g 'Passi0nfruit' Chronograph, they have inspired another generation of enthusiasts while showcasing the best of Chinese culture, architecture and heritage, reflected in their oh so talked about watches.

And that’s not forgetting their other novelty, the Porcelain Odyssey which is discontinued.

Right down to the Dandong SL1588A automatic movement, the watch is given the full intensive testing for two days, before being sent to the Horological Research Institute of Light Industry (HRILI) for additional procedures post-assembly.

This is strenuous alright. In discussion since the beginning of 2022, the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ has made its mark you might say. A symbol of pride and honour, this fiercely competitive industry has seen a new competitor bare its horological teeth…with expert precision and Chinese quality as its nucleus. The graduates from business school have not done too badly for themselves.

Let’s face it, aside from a few niggles, you'd be hard pressed to find something of this ilk with a gorgeous guilloché dial for less than £5,000. Go on, just try. As John Hannibal Smith declared in the hit 80’s series, The A-Team, “I love it when a plan comes together.” In summation, the man may not maketh the watch. But the guilloché dial might.

As for Atelier Wen…isn’t it tremendous when the fruits of your labour finally pays off?

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Images: (Unless otherwise stated) Atelier Wen/Chrono Hunter

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