A reinterpretation of the dress watch, incorporating Grand Feu enamel, French based movement by Pequignet and celebrating Chinese culture, a new collection is born from Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron. Introducing the Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO)

In Brief

• Say goodbye to the integrated bracelet watch, and hello to a delicious dress piece from the brand behind the Porcelain Odyssey and Perception series.

 

• A brand new line, and the first since 2022, the case and innovative detached lug has a deep mythical and cultural meaning, derived from the first jade dragon or “pig dragon” (zhūlóng) artifacts dating back to the Neolithic Hongshan period.

 

• With creative input from Sifan Guo and Alfred Chan (of Toledano & Chan), there are plenty of polishing and brushed surfaces, taking form and function to greater heights.

 

• Made from 904L stainless steel, akin to what Rolex has produced since 1985, the Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO) has a svelte 38mm case diameter, hand-hammered fumé dial, five layers of AR coating, baguette-cut diamonds and French movement by Pequignet.

 

• Respect has been paid with deeply-ingrained Chinese influences on the seal, a huí wén emblem engraved on the external bolts and the three quarter micro-embellished bridge,  depicting “Questions to Heaven” (天问), one of the most famous and enigmatic poems in early Chinese literature.

 

Once in a while, everyone likes a break from the norm. And we ain't talking about any LeBron James style timeouts here. Bringing something new to a captivated horological audience.

First, there was the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Then, who could forget the launch of the Rolex Land-Dweller, released at Watches and Wonders 2025. This set the benchmark this year for integrated bracelet sports watches.

Wilfried Buiron (l) and Robin Tallendier (r) 

 

And much like Atelier Wen, it was the coronet’s first dive into a brand new line in three years…complete with Calibre 7135, Dynapulse escapement and all. But now it’s the turn of this hot-heeled Franco-Chinese outfit, co-owned by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron. 

Since their inception in 2018, they have been making more waves than an Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Summer Blue on the independent watchmaking scene. And the Jiao is everything you would expect…and more. 

Incorporating a mind boggling Grand Feu enamel dial, stylish calligraphic numerals by Hong Kong pro Elaine Wong and slender looks that wouldn’t look out of place at London Fashion Week, it’s time to look at their latest execution, the Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO).

But how did we get to this point? Start the clock…

 

Time For Reflection

In seven short years, Atelier Wen has been stamping their authority on the watch world.  

Founded in 2018 by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, two French entrepreneurs with deep rooted connections to China, Atelier means “workshop” in French, and Wen (文) meaning “culture” or “literature” in Chinese—symbolizes its mission: to fuse refined Chinese artistry with modern watchmaking in a way that’s authentic, respectful, and forward-looking.

The brand was born out of a desire to challenge stereotypes about Chinese manufacturing and design. Rather than outsourcing or relying on European heritage, the brand proudly embraces its Chinese identity—not just as a theme, but as an integral embodiment of its design, production, and rich philosophy.

Hao model with a pure, blemish-free white dial.

 

This is reflected in the first collection, entitled the Porcelain Odyssey, inspired by Chinese porcelain artistry, especially from Jingdezhen, the porcelain capital of China. Each dial is made from real porcelain—a highly challenging and delicate process that’s encapsulated in the
Hao (皓) and Ji (霁) models

These entry-level watches received high praise for their unique design, quality, and transparency of production, especially at their sub-$1,000 price point.

 

Personality Of The Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO)

“With Ancestra 蛟, I wanted to move away from the obvious visual shorthand for ‘Chinese design.’ No dragons on the dial, no red lacquer clichés. The cultural references are hidden in form, proportion, and texture: the curve of a Hongshan jade carving, the depth of the sea in mythology, the cadence of ancient calligraphy. It’s a piece that reveals itself slowly, the way real culture does.”

Robin Tallendier, Co-Founder of Atelier Wen speaking exclusively to Chrono Hunter

 

There’s a Grand Feu enamel dial, diamond indices and an EPM03 movement from French brand Pequignet. And we are only scratching the surface of this release. 

For starters, it is made from an extremely durable 904L stainless steel but where this differs are the new case dimensions, making it an ideal dress watch.

READ MORE: A Definitive Guide To The Best Dress Watches For Any Swanky Event

Tipping the timekeeping scales at 38mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.3mm, to give you a little perspective, it is a whopping 2mm less than a classic IWC Portofino Automatic (IW356501) and 0.3mm slimmer than a Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete calendar in pink gold 

(4000E/000R-B438) 

 

The latter is 9 times the price of a Jiao. Worth taking note!

And what’s more staggering is the textured hand-hammered dial. As painstaking as trying to keep up with Usain Bolt in his pomp, the dimpled surface is a result of an initial 925 silver base. 

 

This undergoes a process involving powdered glass and water which is dried and whacked in a kiln, turning the heat up on this novelty. With searing temperatures ranging between 750 to 850 degrees, they really are burning the house down with this number.

 

Mind you, that is if warping, cracking or any external factors hasn’t affected it during the process as there is plenty of wastage. Sure many dials end up not cutting the mustard. 

But what you have is a Grand Feu enamel dial of the highest order with a gradient moving from a pale silver at the centre to a deep cobalt blue, almost black towards the edge. 

 

“One of my favourite details is the dial gradient. Most fumé enamel dials fade only slightly, but here the colour travels in a wide, even range from deep cobalt to silver. It took over ten shades of blue, countless rejections, and 5-6 firings per dial to get right. We pushed for it because I wanted something that felt truly singular that could intuitively showcase our mastery; the kind of detail you rarely, if ever, see elsewhere.”

Robin Tallendier, Co-Founder of Atelier Wen

 

Kong Liujan is in charge of producing these one of a kind dials. More on his role later. 

On the face of it (pardon the pun) you are treated to an extraordinary smorgasbord of not only Grand Feu enamel but subtle bling emanating from the baguette-cut diamonds. 

 

These are represented by the alternating hour markers giving added depth. Meanwhile, the odd hour markers have been purposefully calligraphed by Hong Kong based Elaine Wong. 

She has created designs for among others Ralph Lauren, Breitling as well as Van Cleef & Arpels. The leaf-shaped hour and minute markers are rhodium-plated that benefit from wide polished bevels, alongside a frosted spine. 

 

Note the swirling minutes track that’s drawn from traditional art, known as huiwen. 

If you can only stretch to Nǐ hǎo ma, and for those who don’t know 二 from 四 (that’s 2 and 4 in Chinese) there’s an Arabic option layout. Other touches to highlight include the signed screw down crown with huiwen etching and that effective detached lug visual. 

Enter the dragon

 

Based on centuries old Hongshan jade dragons, civilization’s first depiction of this figure. This breathes new fire into this timepiece with the lugs based at 12 and 6. These have been constructed from an individual piece that takes on the very first form of the ancient mythical beast. 

The almost concave bezel makes it seem even thinner on the surface.

 

Presented on a calfskin leather strap that takes on a taupe coloured grainy appearance, the pin buckle is hand-finished in keeping with the brushing and polishing coming from that super sleek case. 

We are well and truly burning up…

 

King Kong

You might say the hand-hammered fumé dial is a real animal, in the best possible way. 

We had Master Cheng demonstrate his turning skills on the rose engine in my previous review of the Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 睦 (Mù), responsible for the ornate hand guilloche on this piece.

However, we are now introduced to the technical mastery of Kong Lingjun, a highly skilled enamel artisan the likes of which no one has ever seen. This is not like churning out a Moonswatch every month.

In fact, in 2021, his work was so revered, he was given the award as best enameler throughout China. Look, this is wilder than a log flume ride. And that’s not addressing the light diffusion or refraction.

After working with him for more than two years, the decorating result is, well you have to see it to believe it. The nuances, process and detail of the Grand Feu enamel dial that benefits from a distinctive dimpled appearance is beyond sublime. 

Dynamic and different, the tones vary from a subtle silver in the middle, running to a deep cobalt hue on the periphery. And all this from the humble beginnings of a 925 silver empty disc.

 

Did You Know…

Every dial is believed to take longer than an average tournament at Wimbledon, almost three weeks. Plus, there’s an approximate 50% chance of failure in order to obtain the finished look. Hats off to the Kong Lingjun workshop!

 

Official Specs - Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO)

Case Diameter	38mm
Case Thickness	11.3mm
Case Material	904L Stainless Steel
Dial Colour	Light silver moving to deep cobalt blue (Gradient)
Lug To Lug	46mm
Indexes and Numerals	Even hours represented by baguette-cut lab-grown diamonds  Odd hours are signified by special Chinese numbers that are done by calligraphy. Arabic numeral variation with same language for 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 digits Baguette-cut diamonds for 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11 o’clock
Grand Feu Enamel	Yes
AR Coating	Yes, 5 layers
Crystal	Double Domed Sapphire
Functions	Time only (hours, minutes)
Water Resistance	100 metres
Buckle Material	Stainless Steel
Strap Colour	Taupe
Strap Style	Epsom leather finished with Zermatt lining
Limited Edition	Yes, based on one week ordering window. Shipments due Q2 2026

 

EPM03 Pequignet Movement

A turn up for the books you might say. And we don’t care that it's been heavily adapted.

Although they embrace the past, this time, they have done away with former glories i.e. Chinese Dandong movements. In their place comes a spectacular new turn. Inside the Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO), you will find a customised EPM03 movement by the last remaining French Haute Horologie brand, Pequignet. 

 

Renowned for the Calibre Royale, learn more about the brand via my exclusive interview with President and CEO, Hugues Souparis at Watches & Wonders 2025. 

The regulation is as smooth as silk with a daily accuracy of +/-2 seconds, making it COSC worthy, while chronometer wise, expect on average -4/+6 seconds per day. And we are certainly not worthy, as there’s more to this beating beauty. 

There’s also a bi-directional pawl based Pellaton winding system for a greater level of efficiency. With adjustments in half a dozen positions, you can find a decrease in wear thanks to its patented winding assembly and Pellaton winding system. 

Everything has been well executed from the super flat escapement bridge to perlage and snailing found on the 5N gold plated rotor.

This one shimmers alright. 

 

"This is the first time we’ve opened the caseback of an Atelier Wen watch, and we wanted it to matter. The movement bears a 446-character excerpt from a 2,000-year-old poem, micro-etched into a plate just 0.25mm thick. It’s not there just to look pretty; rather, it’s there to carry artistic and emotional value, to give the owner something to reflect on beyond the mechanics and materials. That kind of depth is, in my view, still far too rare in watchmaking.”

Exclusive soundbite from Robin Tallendier, Co-Founder of Atelier Wen

 

Pulsating away at 28,800Vph, Pequignet is respected for their high power reserves (96 hours on both Royale Origine and Calibre Royale models!) Here, the Jiao boasts a respectable 65 hours. But we have saved the best until last. 

The showstopping highlight of this particular movement is the three quarter bridge, decorated with an iconic Chinese poem that’s quite literally the stuff of legends, entitled Questions To Heaven.

And you are one step closer below to uncovering the importance of this symbolic etching.

 

What Is Questions To Heaven?

Laser etched on the hand-hammer dial of the Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO) “Questions to Heaven” (天问 Tian Wen) is a famous classical Chinese poem written by Qu Yuan (屈原), one of the greatest poets of ancient China. 

He lived during the Warring States Period (c. 340–278 BCE), and was a minister and poet in the state of Chu. The poem appears in the ancient anthology "Chu Ci" (The Songs of Chu), which blends mythology, personal lament, and political critique.

This is a long poem composed of over 170 rhetorical questions posed to the heavens (i.e., to the gods or the cosmos). In it, Qu Yuan questions the mysteries of the universe, creation, myths, morality, fate, and divine justice. The tone is one of doubt, wonder, and philosophical inquiry.

The poem touches on several aspects, like:

• Cosmology and the origin of the world
  
  
• Myths and legends of Chinese antiquity
  
  
• Injustice and human suffering
  
  
• The arbitrary nature of fate and the gods
  
  

Official Movement Specs

Country of Manufacture	France
Pellaton Winding System	Yes
Type Of Movement	Automatic
Tungsten Rotor	Yes, a skeletonised solid piece coated with 5N rose gold
Power Reserve	65 hours
Number of Jewels	21
Accuracy	-4/+6 seconds daily
Vph	28,800 (4Hz)
Balance Bridge	Yes
Chronometer Grade	Yes
Hacking	Yes

 

Where Can You Buy An Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO)?

Priced at $5,850/~£4,300, the window has sadly passed oh devoted timelords on this one, as there was a seven day ordering period. 

Yet, all is not lost. 

Available ineither Chinese or Arabic variations, if you are interested in buying an Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO) contact us here, and we can notify you the minute it becomes available. As per the Perception collection, this one is likely to enter the retirement books sometime soon.

 

What’s Our View?

No two dials mirror each other, as per the Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier meaning each piece is as unique as a snowflake. And there’s no frosty reception in terms of what they have executed.

Merging the worlds of craftsmanship and ancient Chinese mythology, the Jiao is an imperial kinda number and a new direction for this ever increasingly popular brand. 

Can they be considered as one of the best microbrands out there? You bet your bottom dollar. Yet this term doesn’t give enough justice to this exciting independent. They sit back and listen to their collectors, soaking up like a sponge every morsel of feedback to better themselves. 

As for the Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO), they really have made a splash by forging a different path, the first in over three years that’s not on the straight and narrow.

Together with bringing the last French Haute Horologie brand out there in Pequignet by incorporating a new movement, it’s testament to the brand thinking outside of the box.

This is in stark contrast to previous Chinese movements, while there has been no expense spared in customising the finishing perspective that has been done to the nth degree. 

Ambitious and tenacious, they really are on the up and up.

 

Conclusion

As Rag n Bone Man declared in his hot single Giant from January 2019, we’ll be breaking boulders underneath our feet. 

Well, this is more a case of moving mountains and shaking oceans in mechanical watchmaking, that should make many top luxury Swiss watch brands stand up and pay attention. 

Yes, it’s a testing time for the industry. And that’s an understatement. 

With the latest 39% tariffs imposed on Switzerland by U.S. President Donald Trump, more and more consumers are now looking for the “Art Of The Deal” to obtain the very best they can at a specific price point. 

After all, as much as we’d like to have Patek and Rolex budgets which are kinda nice, many don’t. And now, Tallendier and Buiron have genuinely levelled up their offering to a palpable audience. Ok, they may have upped the price from the Perception and Porcelain Odyssey, a men’s watch under £5,000 to more than that figure.

But there’s so much more to this one than meets the eye. Well balanced despite being a technically outrageous piece. After all, the dial complexity is off the chart.

The way they integrate and embrace Chinese heritage to paint their story is admirable, bringing it to fruition on the wrist.

And there’s more to come from Atelier Wen in the coming months which is more under wraps than the guest list at an Oscars after party. All I can say for now, is there’s a real Je ne sais quoi feel to their next release.

I’m afraid you’ll just have to watch this space…

 

Want to buy one of the best Chinese New Year watches to diversify your collection? Looking to sell a Rolex fast and shake up your horological armour? Take a second and speak to Chrono Hunter directly. 

Receive multiple offers from our carefully curated network of luxury retailers and choose which one is right for you. Download our dedicated app today or simply enter the details of the watch via our simple online form.

Catering to every consumer, collector and enthusiast, we cover all major brands including Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tudor and many more. Drop us a line to find out why we are the essential platform to buy a watch or sell a watch.

With countless five star reviews on Trustpilot, we pride ourselves on peerless service, quick turnaround and best possible prices, helping you save time and money. 

Discover, hunt, buy, sell

Images (Unless otherwise stated)

Atelier Wen

Further Reading: 

Link back to the site if relevant to the article or brand.

 

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

Compare Offers from the world's most reputable luxury watch retailers.

Save Time.

 Save Money. 

 Personalised Service. 

Hassle-Free.