Men's watch buying guide for 2021

 

It’s possible to tell a lot about a man based on their watch. While some watches are merely basic tools for keeping track of time, others have a rich history, a high level of craftsmanship and simply exude class. If you’re the sort of person who takes a utilitarian approach to timekeeping, this might not be the guide for you. However, if cogs, gears, precious metals, provenance and engineering prowess are all important to you, read on. This is an article for the man who understands more than the value of merely knowing the time of day.

Purchasing a watch can be a difficult and confusing process, particularly if you’re unsure about what you’re on the lookout for. It’s not quite as straightforward as buying a new smartphone or car, for example. Unlike these items, functionality isn’t always the most important facet of a luxury watch. Interestingly enough, it’s neither the case that price correlates with quality, either. While the world may have its share of men who put their timepiece on a pedestal because it maxed-out their credit card, those who truly know style when they see it understand that there’s a level of craftsmanship and design which is more important than any price tag.

 

 

 

The right wristwatch should show the world that you’re confident in your preferences, have done your research and know a good investment when you see one. The beauty of doing a little research is that it can help you to better understand what collectors are interested in. Whether you have a genuine love of horology, are interested in a luxury timepiece from a financial perspective, or perhaps take little from both columns, it won’t hurt you to understand the basics of what at times can feel like a somewhat exclusive – and often exclusionary - club.

If you’re a novice in the world of luxury timepieces, it’s true that you can expect to be met with a certain level of snobbery from time-to-time. Thankfully, Chrono Hunter is on-hand to help bring you up-to-speed on everything you need to know about men’s watches, straps and watch accessory options so that you’ll know your quartz from your automatic in no time.

 

Contents

An introduction to watch movements

Understanding mechanical movements

Why should you buy an automatic watch?

The look and feel of an automatic

Watch styles

How to buy a watch

What strap is best for a men’s watch?

What size should your watch be?

Best watch brands to buy?

Should you buy a modern or vintage watch?

Why should you buy your watch via Chrono Hunter?

Conclusion

 

An introduction to watch movements

If you’ve taken even the most basic of cursory glances at any online watch sites, you’ll be aware that there’s a lot of importance placed on a bit of kit known as “the movement”. In the broadest possible layman’s terms, this is what makes your watch tick – quite literally. Some horologists will refer to a movement as a calibre – and regardless of your choice of phrase, all you need to know is that these mechanisms are incredibly complicated works of engineering which keep your watch spinning round.

 

 

 

To make things even more complicated, there are several different types of movement, too. The most popular, by far, is quartz. These movements are mass-produced and retain a high degree of accuracy. They are typically powered by a battery.

Quartz movements were first introduced into the watch industry in the 1970s, and at the time caused something of a stir amongst manufacturers. For the very first time, brands were able to produce affordable watches in large quantities. This meant that cheap, affordable “fashion accessory” watches were hitting the shelves at an unprecedented pace, causing something of a headache for the old-school manufacturers, who were forced to consider how they would remarket in the ages of the quartz crisis.

Of course, it turned out that there was no real cause for alarm: after all, the classics never go out of style. Quartz watches are recognised as inferior to handmade movements, even if they are just as good at keeping an accurate time. However, there’s just something about handmade Swiss engineering that appeals to fans of luxury watches, which is why watches with mechanical movements tend to command a higher price tag on the open market.

 

Understanding mechanical movements

Originally, mechanical movements involved having to wind your analogue watch to ensure it carried enough kinetic energy to keep it ticking through the day. Some watches – even brand-new models – still stick to traditional manually-wound mechanical movements, and it’s easy to see why. There’s something quite comforting about the morning ritual of winding your watch – something sacred, even. It’s a constant reminder that your watch is a part of your personality and not just a mere fashion accessory. To keep accurate time, you need to build a daily connection with your watch, and it’s easy to see why this is still a popular and nostalgic daily task – perhaps even more so in an age of digital accuracy, where autonomy has virtually stripped us of our connection to the mechanics of horology.

However, it’s possible to enjoy the best of both worlds with an “automatic” watch movement. Watches containing these movements are purpose-built to harness kinetic energy from the wrist of the watch wearer. Each time you move your wrist, you’re adding a little bit to the power reserve of your watch.

Automatic watches developed in-house are often highly sought after. These watches usually take a lot of time and skill to develop, thereby carrying more respectability from an engineering perspective.

 

Why should you buy an automatic watch?

While there’s no such thing as a “best men’s watch”, it’s worth highlighting that automatics generally set the standard in the world of horology. Sure, you could purchase a quartz fashion accessory watch for a fraction of the price, but it’s always worth remembering the old adage: telling the time is the least important function of a watch.

Automatic mechanical watches provide people with the convenience of not having to wind a watch while combining the prestige and engineering prowess of a traditional mechanical timepiece. In many respects, people choose mechanical automatic watches for the same reason hipsters in the music world choose vinyl over digital streaming services. It’s not simply about what the watch does, but instead about how the watch does it.

There is often a weight of emotion attached to purchasing a luxury watch. For some men, it might be the most complex purchase of their lives. This means choosing a watch as a means to make a statement, with high-quality engineering, style, panache and class.

 

The look and feel of an automatic

Put simply: those who know, know. The feel of an automatic is much superior to that of a simple quartz watch. There’s the continuous vibration of the movement while the watch powers itself, and a satisfying “sweep” as time elapses. By comparison, a quartz watch has more in common with a standard wall clock, as the seconds tick by without any real feeling of quality craftsmanship.

 

 

Top-tier watchmakers – such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, IVC, Panerai and so on – regularly set the benchmark for innovation and design trends within the industry. Just like the fashion industry, there is usually a trickle-down from the design expertise of classic automatic watch manufacturers. At present, design credentials in the world of automatic watches are at an all-time high.

 

Watch styles

While many men will quite happily enter “what watch should I buy?” into a search engine, it’s important to understand that in the world of horology, it’s not simply about having the latest model. You can save that sort of mentality for mobile phones, games consoles and other throwaway tech. Instead, choosing the right style of watch means you must consider the different facets of your personality. You’ll also have to put some thought into when and where you intend to wear your watch.

There are five main luxury watch types – of which we’ll get to later – and you’ll want to balance your lifestyle and activities with the sort of timepiece suited to your needs. Forget about owning the most popular men’s watch – horology isn’t a popularity contest: it’s about showing that you know your own mind and that you have your own preferences.

Of course, you don’t simply have to limit yourself to one single, solitary watch, either. As your collection expands, so too will your ability to wear a watch which matches the occasion. It’s not a bad idea to consult the “big five” luxury watch categories as a starting point:

 

1) Diving watch

 

 

 

Unsurprisingly, diving watches are designed to continue to function even while traversing the depths of the ocean. However, it should come as no surprise that the majority of diving watches out there never even come into contact with water.

Instead, watch fans opt for diving watches on account of their durable construction, luminous dials (these are easily legible in the dark) and handsome unidirectional bezels. The first-ever diving watch was the Rolex Submariner (1953) and most diving watches are indebted to this design to some degree.

 

2) Dress watch

 

 

 

The humble dress watch is essentially a formal jewellery-like fashion accessory. Most dress watches feature a lack of design features or adornments, a simple dial and Roman numerals.

Men’s dress watches usually come attached to a leather strap and are designed to be thin enough to rest beneath the cuff of a formalwear shirt until the wearer needs to glance at it.

Dress watches usually only perform one simple function: telling the time. They’re also the most likely out of any watch style to be manufactured from precious metal.

 

3) Driving watch

 

 

 

Watchmaking and motorsports have been close bedfellows for an incredibly long time. Driving watches often exude an allure and aura of excitement, conjuring up images of stuntmen and daredevil driver’s pushing their vehicles – and their mental endurance – to the extreme. Driving watches generally feature a chronograph complication for stopwatch timing purposes and a tachymeter for measuring speed situated on the bezel.

 

4) Minimalist watch

 

 

 

Minimalist watches are great all-rounders. Contemporary, modern watches tend to take on a stripped-down vibe, with pared-back looks and a slightly lower price tag in comparison to more complex designs.

 

5) Pilot watch

 

 

 

Aviation watches have been in vogue since 1911 and combine technicality and dual time zone capability with good old-fashioned design sensibility. You don’t have to be a pilot to look good wearing one, either – Cartier and Rolex two-tone models are incredibly popular all around the world.

 

How to buy a watch

When it comes to purchasing your first luxury watch, there are a lot of variables at play – most notably your own individual tastes, your technical requirements and your budget. However, money isn’t everything. There are lots of brands out there which function just as well as classics like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Omega and Breitling for a fraction of the cost.

Pricing generally comes down to the following criteria: materials, brand heritage, length on the market and provenance. You can also expect to pay more for a watch with an automatic movement, on the basis that these tend to be better designed, made of valuable materials and come with the provenance of a long and distinguished watchmaking lineage.

In an era of smartphones (and indeed smartwatches), few of us genuinely need a watch with complications anymore. However, if you want to be able to tell the time in a different time zone or make use of stopwatch functionality on your luxury watch, you might want to reconsider which of the “big five” styles best suits your needs.

 

What strap is best for a men’s watch?

 

 

 

Never underestimate the most important watch accessory: the strap. Your watch strap of choice will usually be dictated by how and when you intend to wear and use your watch. For example:

• Leather straps are ideal for all-day wearing – but these will undoubtedly wear out quicker than other materials.
• Rubber straps are robust and durable but may not be what you’re looking for when it comes to a formal occasion.
• Metal straps offer the best of both worlds in terms of durability and style and are suitable for smart-casual everyday wear.
• Gold straps are perfect for formal occasions and are often found on dress watches.

 

What size should your watch be?

There is no typical size wristwatch. While fashion often dictates whether chunky or slender designs are popular at any given time, it makes best sense to work with a watch that matches your wrist size. Those with slight wrists should opt for a case measuring somewhere between 34 and 40mm, while those with larger frames could get away with models like the Rolex Yacht Master II, which features a 44mm dial.

 

Best watch brands to buy?

Personal preference should inform your decision on which watch brand to buy. However, if you’re purchasing from an investment perspective, ubiquitous brands like Rolex, Carter and Audemars Piguet are all known to retain value quite well.

Elsewhere, you might choose from Richard Mille, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai, IWC, Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, to name just a handful of esteemed luxury watch manufacturers.

You may find it helpful to liaise with a secondary-market salesperson to discuss the history and provenance of each brand. This way, you’ll be able to make a more informed decision and pick a watch that’s in-tune with your personal ethos.

 

Should you buy a modern or vintage watch?

Ultimately, personal preference should dictate whether you purchase a modern or vintage timepiece. However, it’s worth bearing in mind that the upkeep on a vintage watch can be something of a minefield, particularly when it comes to sourcing parts for repairs. That said, many vintage watches depreciate in value when they are superseded by newer models, which means you can often find classic watches for less than £1,000. This is ideal if age isn’t an issue for you.

 

Why should you buy your watch via Chrono Hunter?

When you buy a watch with Chrono Hunter, you’re guaranteed to only deal with reputable sellers. Transactions are conducted safely and securely, and you’ll only ever be presented with the best quality genuine watches. This means that you can buy with confidence. We’re passionate about watches, and over the years we’ve built up strong working relationships with the most esteemed luxury watch retailers around the world – and those strong relationships put us in a position to offer you the best possible deals.

 

Conclusion

Now that you’ve had a chance to take in the above, you should have a more informed idea of what makes a classic watch, and why certain models command a lot of respect – with a price tag to boot. Now it’s time to make your own decision, based on your own individual stylistic preferences and budget.

If you ever need any further consultation, please do not hesitate to contact a member of the Chrono Hunter team right away. Our luxury watch experts will be more than happy to discuss all things horology with you!

 

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter 

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

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