New Rolex Submariner Comparison 124060 vs 114060

We're going to dive right in to compare the new Rolex Submariner 124060 "No Date" with its predecessor the Rolex Submariner 114060 "No Date". Fans of classic Rolex timepieces are in for a treat this year, as the brand has recently announced the arrival of an all-new Rolex Submariner ‘No Date’ 124060 watch for 2020. It’s one of several revamped timepieces to be delivered by the luxury watchmaker, which means older Submariner models, such as the Rolex Submariner 114060, will now officially be out of production.

As one of the most popular Rolex models on the market, it’s easy to understand why the undisputed king of luxury timepieces has chosen to make some subtle yet noticeable changes to this classic. Having initially launched at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954 (now affectionately known around the globe as BaselWorld), the Submariner has evolved over the years from an engineering perspective, although aesthetically little has changed. After all, the face of the Rolex Submariner is instantly recognisable – so why mess with perfection?

New Rolex Submariner 124060 no date vs old Submariner 114060 no date

After getting our hands on the Rolex Submariner ‘No Date’ 124060 watch, we’re pleased to announce that even the classics can benefit from a little bit of change from time to time. Stylistically, it's notable that Rolex has gone slightly more conservative with its new crop of Submariner models this year – of which we’ll get into later.

It’s arguable that the Rolex Submariner ‘No Date’ 114060 has always been one of the more utilitarian timepieces in the Rolex catalogue, mainly on account of its truly symmetrical dial. When it comes to creating a Rolex Submariner 124060 comparison, we’re pleased to say that the new model might even be more understatedly elegant than before. You might be wondering precisely how that could be possible, and it’s all down to the revamped case size.

Previous Submariner models have been recognisable by their slender 40mm case size – so it may come as a surprise when reading this Rolex Submariner 124060 comparison to find that the latest model has actually increased in size. That’s right: the Submariner ‘No Date’ 124060 measures 41mm in diameter. While your initial reaction might be along the lines of “doesn’t that make it less elegant and more clunky?”, the answer is “surprisingly not”.

While the new ‘No Date’ 124060 watch for 2020 gains a millimetre in width, the innovative design means that it sits much more snugly on the wrist, and in some respects actually appears to have reduced in terms of visual mass. With a case which features upgraded polished surfaces, Rolex has got it exactly right with the latest incarnation of the Submariner – and not just from an aesthetic perspective.

Low-tolerance construction

While first-class engineering is nothing new for Rolex, the ‘No Date’ Submariner 124060 manages to eliminate more gaps than ever before – particularly where the bracelet is concerned. In addition to this, the case of the 2020 model makes use of thinner lugs in comparison to previous generations of the Submariner. The effect here is akin to when Rolex released the Submariner ‘Kermit’, albeit without the green bezel insert.

In terms of water-resistance, it’s business as usual for the Submariner 124060, which is guaranteed to be resistant down to depths of 300 metres. While serious seafarers might be more likely to opt for the Deepsea or Sea-Dweller models already on the market, as a daily-wear watch the Rolex Submariner ‘No Date’ 126040 for 2020 is a sure-fire winner. It combines elegance and charm, exudes professionalism and pairs well with formal and smart-casual attire. Put simply, it’s a watch for work and play, and everything in-between.

Minimalist crystal

Some Rolex fans take issue with the fact that standard Submariner models feature a Cyclops magnifier, which adds a slight bit of bulk. It’s all down to personal taste, but for those who want something a little more minimalist the good news is that the ‘No Date’ Submariner doesn’t feature the Cyclops on its sapphire crystal. It’s a small touch, but one that could matter hugely, depending on your individual preferences. It’s also a reminder of how perfect the Submariner ‘No Date’ is for everyday wear.

New movement

The Rolex Submariner ‘No Date’ 124060 watch for 2020 makes use of an automatic 3230 movement. This calibre can hold up to 72 hours of power reserve while operating at 20,800bph (4Hz). It’s worth noting that this family of movements does not feature instantaneous date adjustment, which is fine given that this version of the Submariner doesn’t feature a date window.

Within the 3230 movement, Rolex continues to use non-magnetic Parachrom hairsprings. Unsurprisingly, it’s classified under Rolex’s own “Superlative Chronometer” rating, which actually exceeds the requirements for the COSC industry standard. This means you can expect your 2020 ‘No Date’ Submariner to offer accuracy within two seconds per day, which is no mean feat for a mechanical wristwatch.

Classic dial

The Submariner ‘No Date’ dial is instantly recognisable to luxury chronometer fans throughout the world, so it should come as no surprise to find out that Rolex has not made any major overall design overhauls here. There are some subtle tweaks, such as hour markers which are slightly smaller in stature: a welcome change from the ‘maxi dial’ appearance of the previous generation of Submariner watches.

Don’t get us wrong: it’s not that mini or maxi hour markers are measurably better or worse than one or the other. It’s simply the case that Rolex has decided to take cues from its history, and a bit of nostalgia is never a bad thing. Ultimately, this “classic” Submariner ‘No Date’ dial on the 124060 is gorgeous – but anybody familiar with the Submariner family of watches was already aware of that. Yes, it’s utilitarian and conservative – and yes, that’s a broad part of the appeal.

Bracelet redesign – or not?

Those with a passing interest in Rolex Submariner timepieces could be forgiven for assuming the bracelet on the 2020 ‘No Date’ model has remained the same. In fairness, it is strikingly similar to the three-link Oyster bracelet previously used by Rolex – but that’s understandable. After all, it has previously been regarded as one of the finest metal timepiece bracelets on the market.

The latest Submariner bracelet also makes use of Rolex’s patented Oysterlock safety clasp in addition to a micro-adjusting Glidelock feature for added comfort and stability. Of course, we’ve seen these features before, which may leave you wondering how exactly the bracelet has evolved on the ‘No Date’ watch for 2020. The answer lies in how snugly each link fits together. High-end engineering means that the latest incarnation has an even more “gapless” look than before. This helps the watch not only to look – but feel – more ‘high-end’ and fits with the current fashion trend for steel bracelet watches.

Pricing and conclusion

After all this, you might be considering whether it’s a good time to buy a Rolex Submariner brand-new. From a style perspective, the answer is a resounding yes. Steel watches are currently riding a wave of popularity, and it appears Rolex are all too aware of this. The suggestion is that the recent Submariner models will be more emphasised in terms of production, which ultimately means that they should be easier to acquire.

The knock-on effect is that at face value, the latest Submariner should be more affordable than previous incarnations. Whether this has an impact on how much watch fans will be able to sell a Rolex Submariner from a previous collection for remains to be seen. For example, models which are no longer in production, such as the Rolex Submariner 114060, are likely to increase in provenance on account of becoming rarer than ever before.

The flip-side of this is that if you can get your hands on a new and improved model for less – a model which will nevertheless also hold its value for years to come – why would you miss out on the opportunity? Ultimately, the Rolex Submariner ‘No Date’ 126040 for 2020 is slightly more appealing than the 114060, slightly sleeker on the wrist and more powerful in terms of engineering prowess, power transference and component choices.

While it might not appear as if much has changed at face value, the 41mm dial simply feels better on the wrist and is much more nicely proportioned. It’s a welcome upgrade to an old classic, and while this slight redesign might not be for everybody, it’s certainly instantly noticeable to anybody with a passion for Rolex timepieces.

To buy a Rolex Submariner ‘No Date’ 126040 direct from the retailer will set you back approximately £6,350. Given the contemporary demand for both 114060 and 124060 models, the secondary market prices are a lot higher and likely to increase in the near future – certainly until the next generation of Submariner ‘No Date’ watches is unveiled at least. Whether you’re intending on making a purchase as a fashion statement, an investment, a gift or a combination of each of these, the latest Submariner ‘No Date’ certainly looks the part, will retain its value and be in high demand for years to come.

Hands-on Rolex submariner 'no date' 124060 watch: essential information

• Model number: 124060 (Submariner No Date)
• Dimensions: 41mm dial
• Water-resistance capacity: 300 metres
• Case: Oyster Steel (low-carbon, high alloy 904L)
• Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with upgraded links
• Crystal: Sapphire
• Retail Price: Approximately £6,350
• Current Market Price (At the time of Writing):  £13,000-15,000
• Availability: Authorised dealers and secondary market dealers

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