On The Clock With Sébastien Gobert Creative Director Of Zenith Watches

Table of contents:

At A Glance

Renowned for the El Primero movement, introduced on the 10th of January 1969, Zenith have come a long way since their inception in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot.
Amassing more than 2,300 chronometry awards and producing 500+ movement types, they are history makers and have a timeless commitment to precision, emboldened in the original caliber 2552PC.
Featuring a string of impressive collections such as the Chronomaster, the aviation inspired Pilot and pioneering Defy ranges, the Le Locle brand continues to ramp up their design in 2025 and beyond.
Led by Benoit de Clerck, taking over the horological helm from Julian Tournare, former CEO of TAG Heuer, they have been on a timekeeping renaissance, producing its best results for nearly two decades since being acquired by LMVH.
Blending forward thinking design and first rate precision, Chrono Hunter covers some of their most recent executions, namely the Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle and an exclusive interview with Sébastien Gobert, Creative Director Of Zenith Watches

A true first in every sense of the word, that being the inaugural Manufacture at the time, Zenith has been pulling punches bigger than Oleksandr Usyk since the middle of the 19th Century.

And there’s nothing fake about that…unlike the Ukrainian boxer’s dodgy $100 fake Rolex which he sported when he defeated Tyson Fury for the second time in Saudi Arabia at the end of 2024.

“It’s a Chinese Rolex,” he admitted while grinning like a Cheshire cat. He may be chuckling even more, now Fury has officially announced his retirement (for the second time on January 13th, 2025)

But that was then. And this is now.

Besides, Zenith have produced many knockout horological hits through the ages.

How about thousands of chronometer awards with the first dating back to 1900 at the Paris Universal Exhibition. Or arguably the most revered movement on the planet that puts the Grand Seiko 9S to shame…The El Primero movement.

The movement, the myth, the legend…

Symbolised by the all-encompassing star, a representation of innovation and a shining guide to their army of forward thinking innovators, the galaxy has very much aligned for this top luxury Swiss watch brand.

It’s not just a reference to the highest pinnacle of a specific entity but something far greater than one wants to get their hands on.

Like Phil Collins, it’s about following your dreams “Against All Odds” that is oh so synonymous with their fetching strapline. “Time to reach your star”.

The breakthrough as the first Manufacture paved the way for others to follow, while continually pushing the boundaries of what is possible.

With each timepiece containing between 150 and 1000 individual components, this signals the close partnership not to mention the blood sweat and horological tears that go into every one of their novelties.

On top of this, you bet your bottom dollar there is vertical integration coupled with an integral and faithful reliance on the brand’s original location. A mainstay for the best part of 160 years…and counting. But as LeBron James knows all about, we are at least momentarily, in need of a well earned timeout.

DISCOVER MORE: LeBron James Watches Are A Slam Dunk For Any Keen Horophile

Besides, there’s lots to cover before we eventually go one on one with Sebsastien Gobert, Creative Director of Zenith.

Not only will we take a look at the brand’s greatest achievements, but examine one of their latest models, the Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle before launching like a poised panther into the interview.

Gentlemen…as Cher said back in 1989, let’s Turn Back Time…for a minute anyway, and reflect on the brand’s impact on the watchmaking sphere.

Zenith Watches - A Brief Timeline

“Time To Reach Your Star”

1865 – Foundation of Zenith

Created by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, the brand was established with a commitment to producing high-quality timepieces.
The company initially produced pocket watches, which were highly regarded for their accuracy and craftsmanship.

1900s - Early 20th Century – Technical Innovation

During the early 20th century, the company focused on enhancing the precision of its movements.
They introduced several innovative calibers, including chronographs, which helped set the brand apart.

1911 – First Chronograph

Launched the first chronograph movement, cementing its reputation for technical excellence.
They would go on to become famous for its chronograph movements, with many being used in military and aviation watches.

1960s – Zenith El Primero

1969: Unveiled the El Primero movement, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph).
The El Primero became one of the most famous and influential chronograph movements in watchmaking history.
It is still in use today and is regarded as a hallmark of their commitment to innovation and precision.
The El Primero was used in a variety of watches, including those designed for aerospace and military use.

1970s – Quartz Crisis

Like other Swiss watchmakers, Zenith was heavily affected by the Quartz Crisis (late 1970s to early 1980s), during which Japanese watch brands like Seiko and Casio began dominating the global market with inexpensive, accurate quartz watches.
Their response was to focus on improving the precision and quality of its mechanical watches, preserving its status as a luxury Swiss Manufacture.

1980’s - Redefining The Brand

The 1980s was a period of reinvention with an emphasis on modern, contemporary designs that incorporated advanced materials and bold aesthetics.
The Defy Collection became a significant part of this era, blending avant-garde designs with traditional mechanical expertise.
The Zenith Defy models introduced sleek, angular cases, and innovative features, symbolizing the brand's commitment to both technical excellence and contemporary luxury.

1990s – Introduction of New Collections & LMVH Acquisition

They revitalized its offerings with the launch of several new collections, including the Zenith Star and Defy range.
The Defy Collection introduced modern designs, blending traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology.
Acquired by LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) in 1999. A global leader in luxury goods, they took control of the brand as part of its strategy to expand into the high-end watchmaking sector.
Under LVMH’s ownership, the brand was able to continue focusing on its legacy of precision mechanical movements and innovate with new models like the Defy collection and advanced movements like the El Primero chronograph.

2000s – Reviving El Primero

Reintroduction of the El Primero chronograph movement as a central piece of its collection.
Unveiled several El Primero-powered watches, including the El Primero Chronomaster and El Primero Tourbillon.

2010s – Defy & Modern Innovations

2017: Introduced the Defy Lab (above), a revolutionary timepiece featuring a single-piece oscillator, replacing the traditional balance spring.
Influenced by 17th Century Dutch mathematician and scientist, Christian Huygens, this technology represented a major advancement, offering a higher level of precision and performance.
The Defy collection was further expanded to include a variety of models, including the Defy Classic and Defy Extreme, all of which embraced modern aesthetics and technological innovation.
2019: Celebrated 50th anniversary of the El Primero chronograph movement with a commemorative edition, bringing further attention to its iconic legacy.

2020s – Present

Innovation, blending heritage and modernity continues, embracing sustainability by incorporating eco-friendly materials and advanced manufacturing processes.
New models, including the Defy Extreme, Chronomaster Sport (2021), Defy Skyline (2022) and Defy Revival collections are introduced, merging Zenith’s rich legacy with cutting-edge designs and technology.
Collaborations with brands like Land Rover resulted in the minimalist El Primero Land Rover which have further solidified their place in the luxury watch industry.
At 42mm, it is inspired by the luxury car’s dashboard, composed of aluminium and enjoying a scratch-resistant coating made from ceramic. The grey dial has echoes of the Graphite Atlas specs found within the Range Rover SVAutobiography.
Blending heritage and modernity, they start to offer luxury timepieces with cutting-edge technology, such as the mirror-polished Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror and Zenith Defy Revival collection, which brings a contemporary twist to iconic designs from the 1960s and 1970s.

Welcome To The Jungle

Guns N Roses may have released the hit single “Welcome To The Jungle” on September 28th, 1987, when Margaret Thatcher won a third successive term as British PM and Ronald Reagan delivered a legendary speech in West Berlin.

But fast forward more than three decades and we are presented with a different kind of beast, roaming the horological Serengeti. Anyone for black and orange tiger stripe chronograph subdials and a vibrant green declination?

It's about time we took a walk on the wild side and introduced the limited edition Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle.

One of the latest iterations from the Le Locle stable, debuting in December 2024, this may be the perfect festive stocking filler for aficionados worldwide. But remember, a watch is not just for Christmas!

LEARN MORE: 33 Best Luxury Men's Watches To Gift The Wrist Worthy Gent For Christmas

Many are comparing this fondly to the Rolex Daytona “Leopard” reference 116598SACO in yellow gold, boasting more than thirty coloured cognac sapphires, as rocked by Nicholas Cage.

But in our humble and esteemed view, this is like comparing night and day. The comparison is, well, for want of a word…incomparable.

It’s nothing like it in any shape or form.

Personality Of The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle

You’ll need the eye of the tiger to tame this beast!

And as we're due to conduct an never before seen interview with the brand’s Creative Director, this is jam packed full of special design elements.

Drawing the horological curtain on this third and final chapter of the epic 1/100th of a second series, with a Desert collection and icy cool version that we covered so gloriously via the chalcedony inspired Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier, it has an air of mystery to it.

This is tied in with a captivating design, shrouded in more mystery than a Maigret novel.

First off the bat is the distinctive dodecagonal bezel and 45mm brushed titanium case.

If you like your watches on the slim side, this is not for you. It’s certainly going to be bordering Panerai territory on the wrist, as the 15.4mm case thickness is by comparison 0.4mm thicker than a Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 and Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600 (15mm)

Then there’s the visual theatre with more ruggedness than Gerard Butler screaming “This Is Sparta” in the movie 300. Much more.

How about “This is Zenith!”

It positively screams extreme vibes, outlandish energetic spirit with close attention to the DEFY Extreme series. And this is showcased in the enigmatic dial with more uncharted territory and terrain than any TAG Heuer Carrera could throw at you.

In any case, when the going gets tough, the tough get going with this iteration, having the ability to withstand the most extreme of environments.

Brimming with, you guessed it…tiger’s eye stone located on the 12 sided bezel and chronograph pusher protectors.

So let’s go on the prowl further still to uncover what else is there to shout (or roar) about behind the Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle. With more layers than an onion, the beautifully open worked dial has a rather attractive khaki green sapphire crystal, in line with the jungle theme.

This extends to the power reserve totaliser as well as the main plate, oscillating weight that’s been satin brushed and ravishing rotor, similarly finished in this imposing hue.

But the stone inlay resonating from the Tiger’s Eye gemstone sets it apart from the rest of the collection, especially when one examines the pusher guards and bezel.

Meanwhile, this is beautifully offset against the sexy skeletonised green tinted sapphire dial and tiger stripe on the periphery of the registers with a jungle green colourway in the centre. With this on the wrist, you’ll be looking as sharp as a tiger’s claw.

The indices, hour and minute hands benefit from rhodium plating while the beige Superluminova is a far cry from the C1 or C3 used in many entry-level watches.

Don’t get us wrong, there are the usual facets to fawn over from the brushed titanium angular case to the bevels, given a thorough polishing.

And then there’s the epic movement…

Pulsating as fast as Usain Bolt is the infamous El Primero 9004 calibre.

Fitted with a double barrel, it means you can expect lightning quick speeds thanks to the principal chronograph hand that tears up the dial faster than Lewis Hamilton speeding around a Formula 1 track, sporting a Rolex Daytona.

LEARN MORE: A Complete History Of The Iconic Rolex Daytona - Chrono Hunter

In essence, this flips its way round the striking green tinted dial once every second when timing events. As rare as the Rolex 4133 “Split-Seconds”, it is a sight to behold if you are looking to buy a Zenith for its immense El Primero capabilities.

How fast are we talking? How about one second.

This means you have the ability to record precise timings, be it that early morning swim before heading to Wall Street or late night gym workout. With two separate escapements beating at 5Hz and 50Hz respectively, it is a marvel to behold on the wrist, albeit a little dizzying.

And if this has got you into a spin, we ain't done just yet.

Home to what they are still saying is the speediest automatic chronograph, the 9004 movement has a weekend-proof 50 hours of power reserve, due to the rapid speed operation of both the timekeeping (5Hz) and chronograph (50Hz) aspects.

Presented on a titanium bracelet (there is a black Velcro and green embossed rubber strap option for good measure), this enhances the overall vigour and provides added texture to this piece that Tarzan would be proud to flex.

As King Louie and Baloo once sung;

“Now, I'm the king of the swingers

Oh, the Jungle VIP

I've reached the top and had to stop

And that's what botherin' me”

What Is Tiger’s Eye?

A strikingly beautiful chatoyant gemstone, it has been used in jewellery and as a decorative stone for centuries.

It is a type of quartz known for its golden to brownish color and its captivating shimmering effect, which resembles the eye of a tiger. This effect is known as chatoyancy, where the surface of the stone reflects light in a way that gives it a glossy, eye-like appearance.

Key Features Of Tiger's Eye:

Colour: Typically, a tiger's eye displays a range of golden to rich brown colors, with the golden-brown hues being the most common. Some varieties may show hues of red or blue.
Chatoyancy: The stone exhibits a reflective, shimmering band of light that moves across the surface when the stone is rotated, much like the eye of a tiger. This effect is a result of the mineral's internal structure and fibers of crocidolite (a type of asbestos) that have been replaced by silica over time.
Hardness: Tiger’s eye is a relatively hard gemstone, ranking 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness, making it suitable for use in rings, necklaces, and other types of jewellery.

This stone is usually found in metamorphic rock deposits, especially in places like South Africa, Australia, Brazil, India, and the United States.

Tiger's Eye Varieties:

While the traditional golden-brown tiger's eye is the most common, there are other variations:

Red Tiger's Eye: Also known as "Dragon's Eye," this variety has a deeper red hue, which is formed when the iron content in the stone causes a red tint.
Blue Tiger's Eye: This is a rarer variety, sometimes called "Hawk's Eye", and it features a blue-grayish color with a similar shimmering effect.

**Complete with 5 year warranty and priced at £24,200 at the time of writing, this pawsome piece, limited to 50 watches, has already marked its timekeeping territory.

It is sold out…Like famous wearer Nicholas Cage, this one has literally Gone in 60 Seconds!

Official Specs

Case Diameter	45mm
Case Thickness	15.4mm
Reference	95.9202.9004/26.I001
Dial Colour	Khaki green tinted sapphire (openworked)
Crystal Material	Sapphire
Case Material	Titanium (brushed) with Tiger’s Eye Gemstone
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds based at 9 o’clock, 1/100th of a second chronograph, central chronograph hand undertaking one revolution per second, 30 minute counter located at 3, 60 second element at 6 o’clock, chronograph power reserve indicator at 12.
Water Resistance	200 metres (20ATM)
Hours and Minutes Hands	Rhodium Plated
Lume	Beige Superluminova
Strap System	Simple to operate Interchangeable system on the caseback
Types of Bracelet	Choice of three featuring titanium, an embossed rubber strap in khaki green with titanium folding buckle, and a strap in black Velcro.
Power Reserve	Minimum 50 hours
Vph	Dual regulating organ; 36,000 (5Hz) Chronograph Vph 360,000
Number of Components	293

What’s Our View?

Whether it’s passed the beady eye of Sébastien Gobert, Creative Director Of Zenith Watches or not, truth be told it is a fitting farewell to this epic trilogy. So why not give them a hand?

Sure, we have seen previous executions such as the Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle that ventured into unchartered territory. Or the colorful Defy 21 Chroma II with its myriad of rainbow influences.

Nevertheless, the Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle has been taken up a notch and is arguably the best declination in the series.

With a first rate, no-nonsense robust sporty construction that the brand is, let’s say defined for within this range, there remains a degree of elegance and sophistication.

This is mostly seen with the Tiger’s Eye material as seen across the dial not to mention on the bezel and pusher guards.

Throw in the 1/100th of a second chronograph, openworked detailing and multi-faceted case, it results in a magnificent portrayal of what this lineup truly represents …with an extra bite!

I think we have kept you in suspense long enough. Therefore, let’s clear the muddy waters, pull back the dense forest and head straight into our rip roaring, no holds barred, off the timekeeping table interview with the man of the hour…

Sébastien Gobert - The Interview

It’s finally time to deep dive like a Bell & Ross Hydromax into the mind and inner horological workings of one of the main men at this majestic Manufacture.

Gents, its eyes down for an exclusive interview with Sébastien Gobert, Creative Director at Zenith watches.

Here he is in conversation with our Head of PR & Content, Simon Lazarus.

1. You have been at Zenith since 2019. Tell me more about your greatest accomplishment(s) to date?

Sébastien Gobert: Changing everything without changing anything. In five years, we have redesigned 80% of our collections. Our greatest pride is being creative and surprising while preserving the historical codes of the brand. We strive to surprise naturally.

2. Why is there such a greater level of artistic freedom at the Le Locle manufacture in terms of design concept to execution, and what are your most integral design influences?

Sébastien Gobert: Our creativity draws its strength from the spirit of the manufacture, where all the trades are united under one roof. This unique setup fosters close collaboration between artisans and designers, which promotes creativity.

Our inspirations come primarily from our invaluable archives. With nearly 160 years of history, we have a rich heritage of innovative creations. But we also draw from the world around us: architecture, art, and fashion enrich our vision.

3. Taking inspiration from the past is as much the heartbeat of Zenith as the El Primero movement. How important is heritage in conceptualising your novelties?

Sébastien Gobert: It is the soul of the ZENITH brand. We aim to perpetuate the strong identity codes on which we build each new creation.

4. What are some of the reasons that leveraging heritage in watchmaking is so deeply intertwined with the final execution? Is there a synergy between homage pieces and innovation and if so can you elaborate…

Sébastien Gobert: Paying homage to history honors our predecessors who allowed watchmaking to evolve. By incorporating these elements into our modern creations, we perpetuate this tradition while bringing a contemporary vision to it.

5. Let’s dial in for a second and focus on the Zenith Pilot. Launched in 1957, I notice there’s a trend on bridging the gap between the past, present and future. What is it about the vintage aesthetic of this model that has stood the test of time?

Sébastien Gobert: What truly defines Pilot watches is their ability to meet a functional design brief. These are tool watches created for pilots, explorers, or travelers, which is why they are highly legible.

Their proportions evoke the essence of tool watches, as they were initially navigation instruments. We wanted to preserve these design codes in our new Pilot models: an oversized crown, highly legible luminous numerals, and instrument-style hands.

Even the functionalities were conceived with practicality in mind: a Big Date, Flyback Chronograph, and more.

6. Form and function…function over form. Tell me about your preferred design characteristic and why?

Sébastien Gobert: It’s a delicate balance between the two. That’s what makes design so beautiful. We always strive to harmoniously unite both to create an object that is as pleasing to look at as it is to wear.

7. A timekeeping bird tells me you are a fan of wearing the Zenith 135, a stalwart in the industry, recognised for its immense chronometric precision and winning five Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry prizes on the trot between 1950-1954. What is the significance of this and how does it influence your design ideas?

Sébastien Gobert: This represents the vision of our founder, GFJ, in his quest for the perfect timepiece. I love wearing this watch because it is a piece of simplicity and rigor. Simple, because it is a perfectly proportioned three-hand watch. Rigorous, because it is powered by the Caliber 135, the most awarded movement in chronometry competitions.

8. Collaborations are now part and parcel of the industry. Tell me your thoughts and are there creative thoughts in mind behind these specific processes?

Sébastien Gobert: Collaborations are an excellent way to explore unexpected territories. They push us to draw ideas from outside the world of watchmaking, which has often allowed us to develop new materials.

9. One dress watch, one chronograph and one diver…Which Zenith are you picking and why?

Sébastien Gobert: A tricky question. The Zenith chronograph is a must-have in any collection. It’s often forgotten, but it’s one of the most challenging complications to master - not only due to the complexity of its development but also because of its visual balance.

So, for sure, it’s an El Primero chronograph.

10. Going back through time, do you have any particular designers in the industry that you are inspired by and what makes them stand out?

Sébastien Gobert: I’m a big fan of Marc Newson and his fluid, futuristic design language.

Dieter Rams is another great source of inspiration with his minimalist, functional approach.
Le Corbusier, Jean Prouvé, and Charlotte Perriand inspire me with their aesthetic functionality.

My mentors during my early years in the watchmaking industry were Sébastien Perret (former head of Etude de Style at Audemars Piguet, now independent) and Bruno Belamich (co-founder of Bell & Ross).

11. If you had one minute left on Earth and could only wear one watch, what would it be and could you explain the reasons behind this choice? Note you can also double wrist!

Sébastien Gobert: A prototype I can’t talk about.

12. Finally, to round off, where do you see yourself and Zenith watches in ten years time?

Sébastien Gobert: I see ZENITH embodying horological excellence and celebrating its 170th anniversary at least as successfully as its 160th. Can’t wait to be there

Conclusion

It’s time to draw the horological curtain on our interview with the Creative Director of Zenith watches (sigh) As you can see, this designer and the brand’s executions are ticking along nicely into 2025.

Firstly, the introduction of the Chronomaster Sport Rainbow, incorporating a whopping 50 baguette gemstones featuring ten baguette cut diamonds, lacquered dial, and home to the super charged El Primero 3600 movement. But that’s not all.

In conjunction with 2025 LMVH Watch Week, the brand also announced a skeletonised variation of the Defy Skyline Chronograph.

Technical prowess personified, and with enough edge to make the U2 singer and guitarist quake in his boots, the geometric exuberance of this execution, takes its visual cues from the futuristic design codes of the OG Defy range from the 60s.

The contemporary approach to skeletonization is coupled with an openworked dial, approximately 60 hour power reserve, first rate functionality, and is available in either black or blue open sapphire dial declinations.

Don’t forget the versatile interchangeable strap system, for on the fly wrist changes.

From its latest technicolour horological dreamcoat, to showcasing the highest-frequency automatic chronograph movement on the planet, you’ll just have to watch this space for the brand’s next timekeeping developments.

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