Morteau craftsmanship meets Besançon heritage: With slimmed down cushion-shaped case, updated textured dial, fluted caseband and dedicated in-house micro-rotor movement, it’s time to deep dive into the YEMA Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29

 

Summary

• Taking its design cues from the symbolic Granvelle Palace, constructed in the 16th century, their initial collection has been levelled up thanks to new dial structure and slender dimensions, shaving 2mm off the original case. 
• Originally launched in 2025, the brand is known for their immense dive history, stemming from their iconic Superman. This was released in 1963, less than a decade after the Rolex Submariner (1954)
• With a new 37.5mm case and geometric roof-top inspired visual architecture, there is much to admire with surfaces benefitting from vertical and sunray brushing, a svelte 8.8mm thickness, 316L stainless steel and 50 metres of water resistance. 
• Oozing sophistication, elegance and comfort, this entry-level piece has excellent tapering from 18-14mm while its multi layered dial layout ensures added depth and character. 
• Mechanical prowess comes by way of Caliber CMM.29 enjoying a 70 hour power reserve, nearly double the length of a Patek Philippe Nautilus, typically housing 42-48 hours.

Every second counts, as they say. And the French are certainly making waves in the watchmaking world. 

There’s Pequignet, whom I have covered before in depth, especially with their Attitude Tiger’s Eye. Based in Morteau, it is their close neighbours who are the subject of this review. 

Situated a stone’s throw in the same locality, we take a look at the YEMA Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29. With shaved down dimensions, enhanced visual interest and a more cohesive look, is it worth your time? 

Let’s dive in.

 

The Granvelle Collection - A Look Back In Time

Debuted in 2025, it marked a departure from their traditional dive and adventure-focused designs. This series of watches is named after the historic Granvelle Palace in Besançon, France, a Renaissance landmark that symbolises the region’s rich watchmaking tradition.

Measuring 39mm x 8.6mm, one of its main characteristics initially was its instantly recognisable cushion-shaped case, elegant guilloché-style dial patterns, and sleek visual architecture.  

The brand’s in-house micro-rotor movement was another technical achievement, allowing the watch to remain exceptionally thin, while refined finishing and modern engineering take centre stage.

With more sophistication than Carla Bruni at London Fashion Week, it is brimming with almost as much energetic spirit as a TAG Heuer Monaco or a finely tuned Formula 1 engine. 

PEOPLE ALSO READ: Eight Formula 1 Watches To Inspire Race Fans 

Many enthusiasts praised the Granvelle for combining originality, quality craftsmanship, and a strong sense of value for money. Its blend of architectural inspiration, French manufacturing, and contemporary design has helped establish it as one of Yema’s most distinctive modern collections. 

Nowadays, the Granvelle appeals to collectors seeking an elegant dress watch that offers both technical sophistication and unique character.

 

Personality Of The YEMA Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29

 

"With the Granvelle Renaissance, we wanted to translate the timeless elegance of the Granvelle Palace into a contemporary horological expression. Combining a refined 37.5mm architecture with our micro-rotor calibre CMM.29, it embodies our vision of French watchmaking: sophisticated, technical and deeply connected to its heritage." 

Christopher Bôle, CEO of YEMA, talking exclusively to Chrono Hunter

 

Act One was decent.

But like the 2026 FIFA World Cup, Act Two is a completely different ball game. But can this timepiece score on and off the pitch? First off, the lugs have been overhauled making it sharper than Kylian Mbappe. 

Then there are the super slender specs. Measuring 37.5mm x 8.5mm (versus the OG 39mm) it’s a horological celebration of fine tuning, design and more careful thought than Rodin’s “The Thinker”

To give you an idea, it is only 1mm wider in diameter than a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding in white gold (4115U/000G-B908) and just 0.1mm thicker than another French brand making moves…the Beaubleu Ecce Figura Alba.

PEOPLE ALSO READ: Beaubleu Ecce Figura Alba Delivers Parisian Watchmaking Flair Alongside Six Dial Variations 

A trio of colourways are presented in blue, beige and black. They all give off special occasion watch vibes, in particular, the stealthy black execution. 

There are Dauphine hands that benefit from faceting and polishing, while Super-Luminova BGW9 Grade A on the hands and hour markers means you can view this in all manner of low level conditions. 

Moving on to the dial, and this is where it steals the show

Based on not one but a four layer construction, there is a central medallion that embodies what this model is about. Taking its visual cues from the geometric roof patterns found on top of the Granvelle Palace, in Besançon, your eye is drawn to the middle.

As elaborate as the 2026 World Cup Opening Ceremony, starting 11th June 2026, we do like the decoration which has been given a completely new aesthetic and certainly worth a mention. 

 

Granvelle Palace - Everything You Need To Know

 

"The Granvelle Palace has been an endless source of inspiration. Its architectural richness and historical significance in our region allowed us to create a watch deeply rooted in the heritage of French watchmaking." 

Christopher Bôle

 

Inspired by the rising façade, the steeply pitched roof is punctuated by three richly decorated Gothic dormers that create a rhythmic geometric composition across the skyline. 

The arrangement of these dormers establishes a balanced pattern of vertical and triangular forms, reinforcing symmetry and visual order found on the YEMA Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29.

The building reflects the wealth, influence, and cultural ambitions of the Granvelle family, who played a significant role in European politics during the sixteenth century.

The palace is renowned for its elegant Renaissance architecture, characterised by harmonious proportions, decorative courtyards, and finely crafted stonework. It is these patterns found on the rooftops that are embedded in the intriguing dial.

Over the centuries, the palace has served various functions while remaining a symbol of Besançon’s rich cultural heritage.

Today, the Granvelle Palace houses the Museum of Time, a museum dedicated to horology and the fascinating history of timekeeping. 

It is a celebration of Besançon’s long-standing connection to watchmaking, an industry that helped establish the city as an important centre of precision craftsmanship. 

Visitors have the opportunity to admire collections of clocks, sundials, timepieces, scientific instruments, and historical artefacts. It remains a treasured monument that connects France’s political, artistic, and horological history.

What We Like

• Sunray brushed finishes on the bezel that complement the overall design language
• Cushion shaped crown with embossed brand “y” logo providing an unusual yet considered alternative. The inner white shade gives a nice contrast.  
• Smooth winding action, ideal for everyday usage
• New tapered leather strap, incorporating signature pin buckle made from stainless steel
• By embedding a high-density tungsten micro-rotor into the movement structure, it allows for spatial efficiency and automatic winding capability.  

With a melange of finishes, it captures light in different ways with excellent interplay. 

Other elements of note feature a small seconds subdial at 9, mirroring the overall shape design, sunken hour track and outer chapter ring that has facetted hour markers, again composed of stainless steel. 

The art of quiet luxury personified, isn’t it a wonder the French are so effortlessly stylish, inside and outside of watches?

 

Did You Know?

Measuring 48 metres in length, Granvelle Palace was constructed during the Spanish period, between 1534-1547, in honour of Nicolas Perrenot de Granvelle, chief advisor to Charles V. 

Official Specs - YEMA Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29

YEMA Calibre CMM.29 

 

"The CMM.29 manufacture calibre perfectly embodies our vision of modern watchmaking: combining mechanical sophistication, slim proportions and everyday comfort." 

Exclusive soundbite from Christopher Bôle, CEO of YEMA

 

Beating at 28,800Vph or 4Hz, it is home to their in-house YEMA Calibre CMM.29. 

Based on the former CMM.20 found in the OG Granvelle, launched just twelve months ago, the engraving of this can be seen through the sapphire caseback. 

Produced in their workshop, situated in Morteau, 65km from the inspiration for the collection in Besançon, like for like stats remain in place…as does performance and precision

There is a tungsten rotor, daily accuracy of -3/+7 seconds, slightly just above COSC levels found in many top Swiss luxury watch brands such as Tudor and Breitling. 

PEOPLE ALSO READ: The Top 12 Most Popular Breitling Watches For Men 

But we’re not knocking that for a second.

Created and developed by Olivier Mori in La Chaux-de-Fonds, there's more to this next generation Calibre CMM.29 than meets the eye. Other highlights that we should point out include;

• Côtes de Genève detailing. 
• Rhodium-plated bridges.
• Non magnetic alloys
• Shock resistance by way of an Incabloc double cone.
• 3.7mm thickness

Undertaken by skilled craftsmen, it is this meticulous approach to manufacturing that sees both micro-rotor calibre bridges and mainplates produced in the brand’s workshops. 

Coupled with final assembly taking place in the same location, it firmly puts French watchmaking on the horological map. 

 

Official Movement Specs

 

Where Can You Buy A YEMA Renaissance Granvelle CMM.29?

With a 5 year worldwide warranty, it is presented on a calfskin leather strap with a pin buckle that’s composed of stainless steel. 

This has been made especially for this particular model. With shipping due to commence at the end of June 2026, at the time of writing, expect to pay;

• 2,100 EUR
• 2,500 USD
• £1,900 

Available in beige, ice blue and black, this is not a limited edition but further information can be found here. Furthermore, If you want additional details, or enquire about making a purchase, don’t hesitate to contact us

Prices correct as of June 2026

 

What’s Our View?

Despite the brand being owned by Seiko for nearly twenty years, they have now forged a commanding presence and reputation among enthusiasts and aficionados for their rugged tool watches and vintage inspired divers like the Superman. 

The YEMA Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 has been elevated, enhanced and fine tuned with a more ornate dial and diminutive case size to 37.5mm. Much like the Atelier Wen Perception V3, this is not a one trick pony. 

Far from it. 

Be it dress or casual sports category, in our esteemed view, rather than push boundaries, they have taken a classic and redefined it. A bit like Rocky II in 1979 that grossed more than $200 million. Again, this timepiece punches well above its weight. 

For today’s wearer, the 2mm shrinkage enhances the overall look and wrist appeal, that’s more aligned to slimmer novelties.

Throw in a 70 hour power reserve, stepped visual architecture, slim profile and French automatic micro-rotor calibre, and you have an attractive horological proposition. 

Whoever said good things come in small packages?

 

Conclusion

There’s no denying that French independent brands are turning up the heat. 

With guys like Serica executing exquisite linen dials and sexy stadium-shaped cases, not to mention Pequignet with Calibre Royale, delivering a near 100 hour power reserve,  today, they are among some of the best microbrands out there.

Providing value for money, market differentiation, technical innovation and distinctive design language, it's not a surprise YEMA are starting to carve their own niche on the scene.  

Sure, some may moan about the lack of hacking seconds.  

But there are many boxes ticked that in our opinion, make this brand one to put on your radar. We’re talking about the historical influences seen behind the choosing of the dial layout, with a nod to the Granvelle Palace in Besançon. 

All of their components are sourced in France or Switzerland within a 72km radius of the brand’s HQ. Magnifique! It’s a genuine dynamic ecosystem right on their doorstep (well, almost) Have they surpassed the original version? Absolutely.

Perhaps this might be the genuine renaissance of French watchmaking as we know it.

 

Discover, hunt, buy, sell

 

Images:

Unless otherwise specified YEMA

 

Further Reading: 

Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf "Vignette" Collection Launches Five New Dial Variations 

 

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