Vietnamese lacquering techniques and an innovative approach to Métiers d'Art take centre stage with the Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf lineup, featuring a collection of five new “vignette” style dials 

 

At A Glance

• Like an Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M, French watch brand Awake is diving deeper to explore their intrinsic connection with Sơn Mài techniques and their Silver Leaf collection.
• Set up in 2019 by Lillian Thibault, the brand is making waves of their own, through their fast selling editions, preserving ancestral horological traditions and technical expertise, paying tribute to Hanoi’s Master Lacquermakers.
• Following the success of their first permanent collection in 2024, it’s time to turn up the heat with the refreshment of the So’n Mài Silver Leaf watches, launching a new series of “vignette” inspired dials.
• With cues to the 70s, they are debuting striking gradient hues in violet, red, blue, palladium and a limited edition golden hour variation. 
• Housing a Swiss made La Joux-Perret movement, setting the benchmark for reliability, handmade straps from the Franche-Comté and a meticulous Silver Leaf technique, it results in an extremely enticing value-for-money proposition.

Wake up for a second…

Despite bags of creativity and technical prowess from the latest Geneva Watch Days, times are as tricky as the handling of Donald Trump’s second state visit to the UK. 

Unprecedented.

With fanfare by the Royal Family, a meet and greet with King Charles III and a lavish state banquet, could there be a Changing Of The Guard about to take place? We’re talking watches, of course, and the creative work undertaken by Lilian Thibault and Awake. 

Independent brands are on the march. They are shaking up the industry, taking on the big boys of Omega, Breitling et al, and making their mark. Following the success of last year’s So’n Mài Silver Leaf collection, it is the turn of this French based outfit to stir the horological pot. 

Their answer? Five new tones, encapsulated in the Son Mai Silver Leaf Vignette Collection. But let’s go back in time (for a minute) to find out where it all started, before moving on to our review. 

Don’t stand on ceremony by all means. 

You’ll want to keep Awake for this one.

 

Awaken Your Senses

2019 may have been the first time Queen Elizabeth II posted on Instagram. But there was someone else making headlines. 

Raising public awareness and planet preservation, Awake Founder Lilian Thibault had a different take, which you might say was out of this world. This was seen through their meteorite dials on the NASA approved Mission To Earth Collection, Chapter I and Chapter II

FIND OUT MORE: 12 Of The Best Meteorite Dial Watches For Spaced Out Enthusiasts

Forget the Omega Speedmaster for a minute. This is no fake news. 

Composed of recycled titanium, they boasted a red and white colourway with cues to one of the most iconic watches of all time, the Speedmaster Alaska Project Limited Edition and a black case with orange strap respectively, the organisation selected both executions as part of the Human Exploration Research Analogue (HERA) scheme. 

This gave researchers the chance to survey in detail how astronauts adapted to being on their own, in spite of the harshest conditions, when on a space mission

Truly cosmic.

Quite possibly the Rembrandt of dials, it is the technique and heritage of Métiers d'Art that’s been elevated and highlighted in their novelties. Tie this in with Vietnamese craftsmanship and this is a far cry from the brand’s debut.

Bringing an emotional connection to enthusiasts globally, this is the driving force behind the So’n Mài Silver Leaf Vignette Collection

 

What Is So’n Mai?

This term refers to the art of Sơn Mài, a traditional Vietnamese lacquer technique used to create intricate, multi-layered, and lustrous watch dials. 

The procedure usually involves meticulously layering natural lacquer from the cây sơn tree, along with materials like silver and gold leaf and crushed eggshells with hand-sanding and polishing to achieve greater depth and shimmer. 

Based on ancient craft, using resin from the Rhus Verniciflua tree, combined with silver leaf gilding and natural pigments incorporated into modern timepieces, it results in mesmerising works of art where tradition meets contemporary design.

With enough texture and shimmer to rival the red carpet at an Emmys awards ceremony, the nature of the Sơn Mài process ensures that every one is a unique, one-of-a-kind piece. 

 

Personality Of The Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf Vignette Collection

 

“Never straying from our vision – to showcase the beauty of the world – we work tirelessly to deliver a proposition of value, quality, technicality and emotion that’s unrivalled in our price segment.”

 Thibaut SACRE - COO

 

Say goodbye to George Jetson and Bonjour to a more sleek and refined approach. What do we mean? Seems they have turned over a new leaf…pure silver leaf that is!

 

 

Together with Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquering, past and present collide with an explosion of colour thanks to five spectacular dials. Forming part of the permanent line, these include;

 

Ultra Violet

With more mystery than Hercule Poirot, this daring, deep and intense tone goes from a rich purple by day to a mystical like tone at night. It does not get more provocative and intense than this.

 

 

 

Palladium

Subtle and purposeful with light browns and light gold accents, it is warm and reassuring while offering a nice alternative to beige.

 

 

Carmine Red

Introducing a deep red, as passionate as Prosper Mérimée’s Carmen, it fades to a deep black on the periphery, giving strength, power and stimulation that’s brimming with energetic spirit.

 

 

Moonlight Blue

Taking its visual cues from the change from dusk to dawn, the blend of blue pigments lends itself to a serene and tranquil wrist experience. 

 

 

Golden Hour (Limited-Edition Run, 100 Pieces)

Starting with a radiant ochre in the centre, gently flowing to vibrant orange and with a soupcon of tobacco hues, this model burns bright, especially at night, thanks to ember like visuals, capturing the true essence of the moment before sunset and after the sun goes down.

 

 

This may be poetic licence on an epic scale. Nevertheless, these gorgeous gradient dials are literally what Jim Carrey is to the 1994 film, The Mask. 

Smokin. 

 

The Famous Five

 

“Our dials are creative playgrounds where traditional savoir-faire meets contemporary culture — each piece shaped by human hands and guided by our inspiration.”

Lilian Thibault, Founder of Awake, talking exclusively to Chrono Hunter

 

As distinctive as a chalcedony infused Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier, every face on this new collection is carefully handcrafted with an ancient technique utilising Rhus verniciflua, now more commonly classified under the genus Toxicodendron, a deciduous tree native to East Asia.

Cultural and Economic Importance

One of the most well-known uses of Rhus verniciflua is its sap, which is the source of urushiol lacquer, used in traditional East Asian lacquerware. When processed, it becomes a durable and glossy varnish known as urushi, which has been used for centuries in fine art, furniture, and ceremonial objects.

Source: asianflora.com

 

The transparent lacquer is applied in multiple layers and hardens through a humidity-curing process, producing a finish that is waterproof, heat-resistant, and long-lasting. 

A raw material, harvested during the summer months in the midst of Northern Vietnam, only 200ml is produced of this precious sap annually. The Sơn Mài - Silver Leaf technique, which has been around for centuries, is a relentless process, requiring meticulous focus and detail. 

Bear in mind that this is all done by hand. 

 

“Ancestral Métiers d’Art comes to life with rare intensity, turning each timepiece into a true horological canvas — a living testament to artisanship.”

Lilian Thibault, Founder Of Awake

 

​​Atelier Wen may have mastered the art of guilloché with Master Cheng and now Master Kong in their latest Ancestra 蛟 (JIĀO) release. But kudos go to this most decorative and dextrous of crafts that Awake has nailed to a tee. 

The process starts off with a sanded lacquer base, then layer upon layer of natural lacquer (12 in total) is applied, superimposed and polished with silver leaf and pigment from the sap, resulting in an unparalleled mirror-like finish. Chromatic, vibrant and a sublime interplay of light, this is the endeavour of silver leaf finishing.

The importance of this Rhus verniciflua tree cannot be underestimated.

It plays a significant historical, cultural, and medicinal importance in East Asia. Its contribution to the world of lacquerware is unmatched, and ongoing research into its medicinal potential continues. However, due to its urushiol content, it remains a plant to approach with caution and the utmost respect.

 

Key Details - Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf Vignette Collection

Made from 316L recycled stainless steel, there is a trend for previous iterations. With a case diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 11.8mm.

To give you an idea, this latest model is 1mm smaller than a Rolex Daytona Meteorite ref. 116519LN and 2mm slimmer than an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Selfwinding (26420RO.OO.A002CA.01)

On the wrist, there is a comfortable lug to lug of 45.6mm while this range enjoys a wide bezel, brushed flanks, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and polished surfaces. This can be found around the top of the case, while the logo is located under 12 o’clock. 

Sunrise, Sunset: Golden Hour limited edition

 

 

Besides, a dial with this intricacy going on merits the smallest of text to allow it to shine. As far as the lume is concerned, it will certainly brighten up any room in every sense of the word. We ain’t talking on the levels of Luke Skywalker's light sabre.

 

 

However, rather than your bog standard lume with application on top, they have gone all guns blazing when it comes to both indexes and hands. This is manufactured with solid machined blocks of BGW9 Super-LumiNova® and capped with polished steel. 

This almost backlit effect and outline comes to fruition during the evening that combines well with the lacquer, delivering functionality and artisanal craft…at the same time. 

 

What Is A “Vignette” Dial?

With the colourful hue degrading as it nears the centre, this type of dial, renowned in the 70s and brought to the fore on the Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf "Vignette" Collection, is almost as famous as The Hulk, platform shoes and denim.

But this is no rip off. 

That’s why they call it a dégradé or faded dial, as AWAKE’s thirst for experimentation has led them down this horological rabbit hole. 

 

 

Across all five variations on the newly refreshed So’n Mài Silver Leaf Collection, you will find an ode to the spellbinding “vignette” faces, harking back to this period with smoky-gradient effects that draws the wearer to the middle of the timepiece.

What started out in photography as a lens defect concerning light input has become a distinctive feature in watchmaking. And guess who was one of the forerunners of this technique? Rolex 

PEOPLE ALSO READ: The Best Rolex Watches To Buy In 2025

Akin to those infamous Stella dials during the 70s and 80s, seen across many vintage numbers from the brand, they were seen on both Datejust and Day-Date models

Example of the dégradé technique. Rolex Day-Date, Reference 18238 in yellow gold. Source: Sothebys

 

 

Due to their unique manufacturing process and stunning visual effect, vignette dials are highly sought after by collectors, with popular versions often found on Datejust models and executions like the “James Cameron” Deepsea, or Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea ref. 126660. 

The latter is often referred to as a “D-blue” dial.

Delivering visual depth and chromatic intensity, transitioning from a brighter, vibrant colour in the centre to a deeper, darker colour at the edge. They are not just attractive, but as collectable as a Patek Philippe ref. 1518. 

READ MORE: All Waiting List Times For Patek Philippe Watches - Nautilus, Aquanaut, Calatrava

That’s right, it’s as hot as the new Awake Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Carmine Red, with seductive face and intense shades, fading from a vibrant red to the deepest of blacks.

Produced using a centrifugal technique with lacquer, it leads to silky smooth colour gradation that can be found in various colours, sometimes enhanced with diamond markers

The subtle colour transitions are achieved using several different pigments and a meticulous layering of lacquer, irrevocably drawing the eye to its centre.

 

Did You Know?

With its melange of sanded Vietnamese lacquer and pure silver leaf, one single dial takes at least ten hours to complete.

 

Official Specs - Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf Vignette Collection

 

Case Diameter	39mm
Case Thickness	11.80mm (including glass) 10.90mm (excluding glass)
Case Material	Recycled 316L stainless steel
Crystal	AR Sapphire Glass
Métiers d'Art Dial Declinations	Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Golden Hour  Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Ultra Violet (Regular Collection) Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Carmine Red (Regular Collection) Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Moonlight Blue (Regular Collection) Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Palladium (Regular Collection)
Functions	Central hours; central minutes; central sweeping seconds
Caseback	Screw Down
Lug Width	20mm
Lug To Lug	45.6mm
Lume	Super LumiNova® BGW9, luminous "cap" signature (indexes and hands)
Water Resistance	50 Meters / 5 Bars / 5 ATM / 165 Feet
Strap	Strap (Tapers from 20 down to 16mm):  Nubuck bull calfskin or suede - grey, blue, brown, or black; depending on version, rubber calfskin lining, tone-on-tone stitching
Limited Edition	Yes. Golden Hour (100 pieces.)

 

La Joux-Perret G101 Movement

To reawaken (if you will) the latest Sơn Mài collection, the brand has turned to Swiss manufacturer La Joux-Perret for the calibre, more specifically the G101.

 

 

Established in 2004, La Joux-Perret is a prestigious movement manufacturer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, renowned for being the cradle of Swiss watchmaking.

The G101 movement is a modern, robust alternative to more common movements such as the ETA 2824-2 and Sellita SW200. With high-end craftsmanship and innovative engineering, it is 

tested in three different positions. 

This true no-date, three hander is certainly more interesting and detailed than your standard TAG Heuer Carrera of the same ilk. Plus, it is nearly as reliable as they come, with a weekend proof power reserve of 68 hours. 

Ok, so it’s not on the level of fellow French Haute Horlogerie brand Pequignet with its mammoth 96 hour reserve, found on their Calibre Royale watches. 

READ MORE: Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm Unveils Slimmer Case In Time For Watches & Wonders 2025

Nevertheless, it is still impressive, especially if you are looking for one of the best men’s watches under £5,000.

Expert finishing comes as standard thanks to the highly decorated oscillating weight in tungsten. This is exclusive to the brand with a host of sandblasting, polishing and micro-blasted surfaces. The whole is encircled by a ring, benefitting from polished and micro-blasted finishes with engraving connected to the particular face alongside their strapline “Artisanship, Awakened” 

Other watches that house La Joux-Perret G101 include;

• MB&F M.A.D.Editions MAD2
• Nodus Canyon
• Fears Brunswick 40
• Kollokium Projekt 01 (K,P–n°01)

 

Official Movement Specs

 

Country Of Manufacture	Switzerland
Type Of Movement	Automatic
Power Reserve	68 hours
Accuracy	+/-12 seconds per day
Case Diameter	26mm
Case Thickness	4.45mm
Micro-Blasted Ring	Yes, laser-engraved
Vph	28,800 (4Hz)
Number of Jewels	24
Hacking Seconds	Yes

 

Where Can You Buy The Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf Vignette Collection?

 

Priced at €2,000 excluding taxes (Around £1,725), these intriguing novelties are presented on handmade straps, produced in Franche-Comté, the nucleus of French watchmaking.

With five new models to choose from, they are suitably complimented, adding just as much depth as the vignette dials to the overall execution. They are handmade by master saddlers from Bouveret, a company manufacturing 30,000+ straps in more than 300 accents. 

Following intricate production with more than 60 individual steps, every bracelet is given a rubber calfskin lining, ensuring added resistance to humidity and longevity. 

Further details can be found here. 

 

What’s Our View?

At the moment, when the industry is in a bit of a horological quandary amid the T word. That’s right, I said it…Trump and his Swiss imposed tariffs mean brands are having to pour more blood, sweat and timekeeping tears into capturing the imagination of the consumer. 

And Awake has done it with aplomb. It’s more a case of mission accomplished rather than one small step for man.

Besides, the level of craftsmanship and technical prowess, thanks to the silver leaf and Métiers d'Art for this price point, is staggering. We are talking entry-level prices at under 3,000 Euros that would, on a good day, put a pre-owned 39mm Tudor Black Bay Pro to shame. 

Again, we are speaking roughly the same wonga.

Lilian Thibault has taken ancestral watchmaking and put it on a pedestal for all and sundry to admire. As they call it, has this unparalleled “value and emotional proposition" woken your senses?

 

Conclusion

In our humble view, the types of watches encountered within the new Awake So’n Mài Silver Leaf Vignette Collection are a masterpiece of engineering, aesthetics and technical precision.

Of course, we must take a minute to doth our timekeeping cap to the vignette dials, which are a technical stroke of genius. Tie this in with their approach to showcasing a different type of Métiers d'Art by demonstrating the art of Hanoi’s master lacquermakers, and you have a horological recipe for success. 

Surely now, they can be taken seriously as one of the best microbrands around?

If you are growing tired of traditional brands and looking to buy a watch with sublime finishing, Vietnamese lacquered inspired dials and a La Joux-Perret movement, may I suggest you stay Awake…at least for a while longer.

Looking to add a colourful men’s watch to your collection. Want to buy a Métiers d'Art inspired timepiece from the likes of Vacheron Constantin? It’s time to get in touch with Chrono Hunter.

Contact us to receive multiple offers from our verified network of retailers and choose which one is right for you. Catering to every type of consumer, collector and enthusiast, we are the leading platform to buy a watch or sell a watch fast. 

Covering all top Swiss luxury watch brands from Rolex and Patek Philippe to Cartier, Omega, Tudor and more, download our dedicated app today or enter the details via our simple online form.

With peerless service, quick turnaround, 100% security and a myriad of outstanding 5-star reviews on Trustpilot, we are your number one source for all your horological needs. 

 

 

Discover, hunt, buy, sell

Images:

Unless otherwise stated: Awake

 

Further Reading: 

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