HTD Tennis Chic Serves Up Italian Design, Everyday Wear And Timeless Charm

Table of contents:

Mixing classic Italian style, an air of la dolce vita and three dial colour variations, introducing our review of the HTD Tennis Chic

Summary

With a deep passion for all things automotive with a vintage slant, Horological Tools Department (HTD) are breaking the mould of military style watches from age-old Italian brands like Panerai.
Established in 2020 by university friends Federico Del Guerra and Federico Zulian, their first collection, the Hesagraph, is a classic chronograph with an injection of fun and as much racing spirit as a TAG Heuer Monaco.
Featuring a svelte 9mm case thickness and 316 stainless steel, this timepiece evokes lazy days spent on and off the court, be it at Wimbledon or a sun-kissed game, drenched by the Mediterranean sun.
An entry-level timepiece, serve and volley your way up the horological rankings with 100 metres of water resistance, screw-down crown and refined hues like champagne pink, metallic black and dollarone green.
Their collections are here today, gone tomorrow, meaning once production is finished, they move on to their next timekeeping creation to tantalise enthusiasts.

Who Are HTD Watches?

HTD Watches (Horological Tools Department) is an independent Italian brand founded in Florence by Federico Del Guerra and Federico Zulian.

Launched in 2020, driven by a passion for mechanics, vintage horology, and classic automotive culture to rival any Formula One gathering.

PEOPLE ALSO READ: Eight Formula 1 Watches To Inspire Race Fans

Their philosophy is to create something that feels like mechanical instruments rather than fashion accessories.

The founders were influenced by traditional craftsmanship and mechanics who emphasised precision engineering and the idea that machines have “soul.”

HTD watches combine vintage-inspired design with modern manufacturing.

Many models draw inspiration from mid-twentieth-century motorsport and exploration, reflected in bold colours, retro chronograph layouts, and sporty aesthetics.

The brand produces several collections, including Hesagraph, Aquatic, and Tennis. HTD produces in limited runs, meaning models may disappear once production batches sell out.

Collectors like this for several reasons because:

It creates scarcity
You are less likely to see the same timepiece on everyone’s wrist
It feels more niche when compared to mainstream brands.

Once a batch is sold out, the brand usually moves on to a new project rather than mass-producing the same model.

This brand typically features mechanical movements, durable stainless-steel cases, and distinctive dials, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design

Personality Of The HTD Tennis Chic

"The Tennis Chic was born from a simple but powerful idea: tennis, at its finest, is not just a sport — it's a lifestyle. We wanted to capture that elegance you see both on and off the court."

Federico Del Guerra - Founder, talking exclusively to Chrono Hunter

Like a Patek Philippe Nautilus or a Vacheron Constantin 222 (steel or gold), tennis evokes elegance, sophistication and a touch of class. This goes for the sporty chicness of arguably one of the best integrated bracelet watches in the world.

It is this effortless design appeal that is reflected in this particular model from this Italian brand.

We are talking super sexy specs, enduring appeal and of course, a dash of chic that wouldn’t go amiss at Paris, Milan or London Fashion week.

Measuring 37mm x 9mm, the specs are fit for both on and off the court.

We are talking the same size as a Rolex Yacht-Master reference 268622 and 0.8mm less than the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding (15451OR.ZZ.1256OR.01)

Slim pickings this is not.

Across several colourways, from velvet black to cobalt blue, forest green, and champagne rose, there is a sense of calm and well-being with the no-frills dial and minimalist look.

This is seen across the tapering, which runs from 20mm down to 16mm at the push clasp. This is the watchmaking norm…and for good reason.

Engraving can be found on the bracelet with the brand logo with brushed satin finishing that’s found on the flanks.

Meanwhile, there are four micro holes for the bracelet, but it would have been nice to see a ratcheting style mechanism.

We do like the quality of the mirror polishing found on the concave bevel. There’s a flat sapphire crystal with decent anti-glare properties.

There are silver mirror-polished applied indices which make it dance…though nowhere near as much as the reflective Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror.

The dials change colour in the light, especially the blue dial, which goes from a navy blue to almost black.

In terms of the aesthetics, the HTD brand logo is situated under 12 with “tennis” written above 6, lending to its well-balanced appeal.

In fact, it’s as clean as 2026 Australian Open winner Carlos Alcaraz’s forehands.

"Every detail of the Tennis Chic was intentional. The 37mm case sits at just 9mm thick — we wanted something that could move seamlessly from a match to a dinner table. The dial is the real protagonist: a subtle-tone gradient with central radial brushing with applied steel indices, carrying SuperLuminova that glows blue at night. It's understated, but there's a lot happening when you look closely."

Federico Zulian - Founder, on design choices

We like the fact that there’s no overkill on the text, a la Rolex Submariner with depth rating and such. Fit for the everyday wearer, does it have an air of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual?

Perhaps.

Nonetheless, this timepiece shines for various reasons.

There is 316L stainless steel, BGW9 lume, and it houses the Miyota 9039 movement, which is a smooth manual-winding experience.

This is a solid choice that offers a 42-hour power reserve and 100 metres of water resistance. The no-date version of the 9015 is a slimmer calibre with the sapphire crystal being in closer proximity to the dial.

"The Chic line is still growing. We launched with Cobalt Blue, and the response pushed us to expand — Velvet Black, Forest Green, Champagne Rose followed. Each new colour is a new personality, a new way to wear the same watch. We're not done yet."

Elia Rossi - Designer

This results in a well proportioned and low-profile visual with many microbrands using this as a budget-friendly choice.

With added mirror-polishing on the top of the piece as well as the bracelet, there is a consistency to things on the surface.

Brushed satin finishing can be seen on the bracelet with an attractive lustre while the contrast on the flank with mirror-polishing lends itself nicely to build standards with tight tolerances.

A big tick must go to sizing, as they can size it, between a six to an eight inch wrist.

The crown is well executed with 316L stainless steel, high-definition engraving, with coin edge style teeth that don't protrude.

This is in contrast to those chunky onion crowns you might find on, say, a Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935.

PEOPLE ALSO READ: The Top 12 Most Popular Longines Watches For Men

Yes, they are packed full of vintage vibes.

But for some, they are as ridiculous as Jake Paul being endorsed for US President by Donald Trump.

However, if you want to know what’s in his horological portfolio, check out our article on Jake Paul’s watch collection

The screw-down caseback is composed of 316L stainless steel and has around the periphery;

SMASH AT 100MT
Brand logo
SS MANUFACTURE

With good legibility, slender profile and unfussy dial, this value proposition means you’ll be a smash hit regardless of playing surface.

Miyota 9039 Movement

The Miyota 9039 is a popular automatic mechanical movement widely used in modern microbrand watches.

Known for its reliability, thin profile, and strong performance, it was introduced in 2018 and has become one of the most respected Japanese automatic movements for independent brands.

The movement belongs to the Miyota 9000 series, which was introduced to compete with Swiss movements such as the ETA 2824-2 and Sellita SW200.

Because of its accuracy and durability, many microbrands choose the Miyota 9039 as the horsepower inside their watches.

One of the key features of the Miyota 9039 is its no-date design, creating cleaner dial layouts without a date window.

Operating at 4Hz, a high beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it provides a smooth sweeping seconds hand and stable timekeeping.

The movement includes automatic winding with a ball-bearing rotor, as well as manual winding and hacking seconds, meaning the second hand stops when the crown is pulled out for precise time setting.

With a power reserve of around 42 hours, in our view is slightly meagre, compared to say the Calibre Royale, seen in the Pequignet Attitude Tiger’s Eye at more than double with 96 hours.

It is a wallet-friendly option given its sub-1000 Euros price.

Overall, the Miyota 9039 is valued for its robust construction, slim thickness, and dependable performance, making it a favourite choice among independent brands and enthusiasts who want a reliable mechanical movement without the high cost of Swiss alternatives.

It has a clean dial, is reliable and easily serviced.

Moreover, this Japanese movement is commonly used in microbrands because it is durable and relatively thin, helping keep the timepiece slim. Other watches housing the Miyota 9039 include;

Alcadus Dromo
Richard Legrand Odyssea Mark III
Traska Freediver
Batavi Architect

Where Can You Buy An HTD Tennis Chic?

Launched in November 2025, prices for the declinations in Cobalt Blue, Champagne Rose, Forest Green and Velvet Black are £500 (Approximately 579 Euros)

When it comes to the purchasing experience, the brand provides a complimentary bracelet sizing service.

What’s Our View?

The HTD Tennis Chic is a compact mechanical sports number that blends Italian design, vintage proportions, and tennis-inspired aesthetics, making it a distinctive option within the growing micro-brand market.

We like the fact it is as slim as Victoria Beckham thanks to its refined 37 mm stainless-steel case and 9 mm thickness, which is unusually slim for a modern sports watch.

Whilst it may not be that Goldilocks style that everyone craves, it does lean into the vintage vibe and slimmer watches territory.

Needless to say, the smaller size makes it elegant and comfortable for daily wear…dare we say with a little Italian panache.

Conclusion

As graceful as Roger Federer’s watch collection, and as refined as strutting the red carpet at the Emmys, the HTD Tennis Chic is an interesting proposition, given the price point.

Does it have classic proportions reminiscent of mid-20th-century sports novelties? Absolutely. Colourful dials? That too. Is it reliable? Well, it’s solid to say the least, given the Miyota 9039.

Below 10mm for these types of watches is impressive. Furthermore, the addition of a flat sapphire crystal rather than a box style on some TAG Heuer models ensures the case thickness doesn’t add any extra heft.

Nor does it reduce the comfort factor.

Well proportioned, simplicity of the dial, nice lustre and a low profile ensure this will hold its own in the overpopulated microbrand sphere. After all, many of us don’t have Nautilus or Rolex Daytona budgets.

Far from it. Plus, the clock has not stopped on this model, according to Founder Federico Zulian.

"I can maybe anticipate, we are working on different "characters" through other sports at the moment, but are also planning to expand on these colours in the future to give a more complete offer to our public…and maybe a limited edition or two," he declared.

So is it game, set and match for this novelty? While you may swelter under the hot midday sun, you’ll be more than satisfied with the end result.

Time, gentlemen, please…

Already received your bonus? Want to buy a Tudor watch or sell a Rolex fast? Then what are you waiting for?

Contact Chrono Hunter here to receive multiple offers from our approved network of retailers and choose which one is right for you. With security and transparency ingrained in our DNA, we are the essential platform to buy a watch or sell a watch.

Catering to all manner of enthusiasts and collectors, we cover all top Swiss luxury watch brands, including Breitling, Tudor, Cartier, IWC and more. Boasting a myriad of 5 five star reviews on Trustpilot, we are here to serve all your horological needs.

Discover, hunt, buy, sell

Images: Unless otherwise specified

HTD Watches

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

Compare Offers from the world's most reputable luxury watch retailers.

Save Time.

Save Money.

Personalised Service.

Hassle-Free.