Singularity, sophisticated design language, COSC certification at entry-level prices and non-magnetic soft iron case are on today’s horological menu, as we review the dive-inspired Serica 5303 collection
In Brief
- Originally introduced in 2021, this watch presented a double-material scale that was initially unveiled with a black and white dial declination. By 2022, the new signature version was launched in crystal blue.
- 12 months later, it incorporates a duo of official certifications, featuring COSC from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute and the brand’s in-house Grand Chronomètre Serica, tested post-assembly.
- Established in 2019 by Gabriel Vachette and Jérôme Burgert, they have come a long way since their first field watch entitled WWW (Wrist Watch Waterproof).
- Encompassing four lines, they adhere to the highest levels of chronometric certification, from ref.1174 “Parade” to this year’s sold out ref. 5303 PLD, in conjunction with the Amicale des Plongeurs Démineurs ((Association of Mine Clearance Divers)
- As stylish as Naomi Campbell at London Fashion Week with sporty-infused dive allure to match a Rolex Submariner, the Serica 5303 collection has continental good looks, woven steel bracelet and unique concept of offering the crown on either side (3 o’clock or 9 o’clock) when you buy a watch.
Serica - An Evolution Of Time
“SERICA was built around a simple idea: create meaningful instruments that feel both essential and exceptional, with nothing left to chance. We’re independent by choice. It allows us to take the time we need, refine every detail, and stay true to our vision.”
Gabriel Vachette, Co-Founder of Serica, talking exclusively to Chrono Hunter
Launched in the same year as the first-ever image of a black hole, the fire that devastated Notre-Dame Cathedral and initial impeachment proceedings against US President Donald Trump began, there’s no fake news here as to how this Parisian outfit has evolved.
Below is a brief rundown of important dates that have shaped the brand to date, with key milestones of the ref. 5303 collection…
2019 - Foundation of Company. Launch of the first timepiece entitled WWW (Wrist Watch Waterproof)
2021 - Two years later and the OG diver, ref. 5303 was introduced, based on individual design and bi-material double scale incorporating hours and minutes.
2022 - Launch of brand new signature ceramic shade to ref. 5303-3 variation
2023 - Movement is upgraded to the M100 Chronometer certified calibre with subtle design tweaks, including revamped case construction
2025 - Ref. 5303 PLD complete with distinctive DT MAX scale for continual ascent without the necessity of decompression pauses.
This was unveiled in partnership with the French Navy’s Association of Clearance Divers, tailored to specifications of this supreme team of elite specialists trained in underwater mine disposal and explosive ordnance work.
Personality Of The Serica 5303 Collection
“We didn’t reinvent the diver. We refined it, piece by piece, until the silhouette felt unmistakably us…Our dive watch should be reassuring under pressure and beautiful out of the water. The Serica 5303 was designed to be both”
Never before heard soundbite from Gabriel Vachette, Co-Founder of Serica
Taking inspiration from the heyday of dive watches back in the 60s, the design language is evident from the get go.
Think Cannes charm meets old school Girard Perregaux “Deep Diver”, renowned for its 200m water resistance and Gyromatic movement.
.jpeg)
.png)
But this ain't a “flaneur” type timepiece you might stroll through the Jardin du Luxembourg with. It’s so much more than that.
But first to the dimensions.
Measuring 39mm x 12.2mm, at first glance it has a Goldilocks-style comfort and wearability.
To give you added perspective, it is the same case thickness as a Rolex Explorer ref. 214270 and the same thickness as a Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon.
PEOPLE ALSO READ: The Top 12 Most Popular Vacheron Constantin Watches For Men
Composed of 316L stainless steel, it has a fine balance of both satin brushing and polishing with a clever twin scale bezel, recording dive times and a secondary time zone.
5303-1 black dial variation
There is a lumed pip above the 12 o’clock, while the double domed sapphire crystal turns up the vintage dial effect to the max.
Speaking of which, there are now three variations. What started off as Porcelain White and Enamel Black has moved on to what they are calling Bleu Cristallin, or Crystal Blue.
The visual architecture is carefully thought out on this trio of dials with excellent clarity resonating from the white and deep midnight blue declinations, together with green lume that stands out.
.jpg)
There is a “Minutes” etching on the outer bezel, while the inner bezel ring is represented as “Heures” or hours.
“SERICA was born out of a love for true tool watches—those instruments built to perform in demanding environments, telling more stories than history books. Precision and reliability sit at the heart of everything we do. There’s no SERICA without hard-wearing specifications. That’s why we remain committed to robust materials, strict certifications, and uncompromising in-house quality controls.”
Jerôme Burgert, Co-Founder
The unique bit comes in the form of the lollipop hour markers, which are drawn towards the middle of the timepiece. Sure, you may not have seen anything like this before. But it’s this design code that makes this unmistakably Serica.
This feature is akin to the octagonal bezel on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or, dare we say, the square shaped case on the Patek Philippe Cubitus. It’s a talking point, a conversation starter and certainly iconic.
FIND OUT MORE: The Top 20 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men
This is paired with a broad-arrow hour hand construction, evoking a vintage Omega Broad Arrow 1957, completing the uber retro appeal.
There are baton type indices assigned at 15, 30, 45 and the hour mark, while the sexiness continues across the dial with minimal text towards the bottom.
“CHRONOMÈTRE” sits on top of “300 m - 1000 ft” that bears resemblance to a Rolex Submariner, in terms of aesthetics. In addition, the “SERICA - SWISS” text is separated by the baton indices, positioned at 6.
Note the printed dial markers, screwed in caseback, oversized crown, 300 metres of water resistance and 50,000 A/M resistance. Shockingly good! Setting the time has never been such a breeze.
Not as controversial as the recent announcement of the Jake Paul v Anthony Joshua fight in Miami, is the fact that you can order these for lefties, with a crown situated at 9. Now that’s as much of a hit as his watch collection.
PEOPLE ALSO READ: Jake Pauls Watches Are A Horological Knockout Featuring $7 Million Jacob & Co. Billionaire
Throw in COSC certification, attaining to Swiss manufacturing standards with a daily accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day, and you have a lean, mean horologically imbued machine.
Did You Know?
The brand tests all watch heads post assembly to its own rigorous levels, known as “Grande Chronomètre”.
Finished on a slinky yet beautifully finished Milanese mesh bracelet that was de rigour at the Jaeger-Le Coultre booth during Watches and Wonders 2025, the tapering is just as impressive.
Lending itself to being played and toyed with…thanks to the ability to change straps within seconds.
In summary, there’s a genuine speakeasy St. Tropez vibe that resonates with this oh so French brand as well as a hint of modernity. To say this is a homage piece would be an insult to everything they represent and have worked tirelessly on.
Midnight blue declination
They have crafted their own nuances of a diver with aplomb, that’s certain to make not just a splash on the wrist, but for many enthusiasts, an ideal everyday watch.
Official Specs - Serica 5303 Collection
|
Case Diameter |
39mm |
|
Case Thickness |
12.2mm |
|
Case Material |
316L stainless steel |
|
Glass Thickness |
2mm |
|
Dial Colour |
Black - ref. 5303-1 Porcelain White - ref. 5303-2 Midnight Blue - ref. 5303-3 |
|
Glass |
Double Dome Sapphire |
|
Lug to Lug Width |
46.5mm |
|
Resistance |
Anti-magnetic (50,000 A/M) |
|
Finishing |
Alternating Polished-satin |
|
Waterproof/Depth Rating |
300 metres / 30ATM / 30 Bar |
|
Super Luminova |
C3 |
|
Bracelet |
Woven steel with integrated end pieces and hinged links |
|
Weight |
114 grams 71 grams (watch head) |
|
Limited Edition |
No |
M100 COSC Movement
“Every single movement assembled in our 5303 is of course certified by the COSC, but also double-checked internally to guarantee its accuracy. Precision doesn’t stop at certification”
Jerôme Burgert, Co-Founder of Serica
With old adversaries such as ETA 2892/A2 or Sellita SW300, this is nowhere near good enough for this particular collection.
Inside beats the M100 COSC calibre, composed of the finest Swiss manufacturing, and on a similar level to many of the best Breitling watches like a Chronomat 41 or Navitimer.
These types of watches have been acknowledged as certified chronometers, tested under rigorous conditions, ensuring first rate performance. Note, this is precisely the same as a Tudor produced MT5652 calibre.
No difference…aside from the power reserve, where the latter has 70 hours.
PEOPLE ALSO READ: The Top 12 Most Popular Tudor Watches For Men At Every Price Point
Add in their own testing, dubbed Grand Chronomètre, conducted on the timepiece's head and the -4/+6 seconds daily accuracy is nothing to be sniffed at. It elevates the piece beyond “run of the mill” to “verified precision”
The M100 represents one of their more premium automatic calibres (versus some more mass-market movements) and is used by brands that want a “chronometer” level credential without sourcing an in-house movement.
Ticking at eight counts every second, they have added a soft-iron cage around the M100 COSC movement in their diver model, enhancing magnetism resistance significantly.
Furthermore, we like the extra touch in terms of decoration, by way of exquisite Côtes de Genève finishing.
The Soprod M100 is a modern, solid automatic Swiss movement with good specs and chronometer level accuracy. It can be found in a variety of models including;
- Aragon Hercules
- Venezianico Nereide Avventurina Nera
- JS Watch Company Frisland Classic
- Luthes Automatic
Official Movement Specs
|
Country Of Manufacture |
Switzerland |
|
Type Of Movement |
Mechanical, self-winding |
|
Finishes |
Côtes de Genève |
|
Total Diameter |
26.2 mm |
|
Movement Height |
Approx 3.6mm |
|
Number of Jewels |
25 |
|
Resistance |
Shockproof |
|
Frequency |
28,800 ALT/HR (4hz) |
|
Power Reserve |
42 hours |
|
Functions |
Hours, minutes, seconds |
|
Hacking Seconds |
Yes |
|
Daily Accuracy |
-4/+6 seconds per day |
Where Can You Buy A Serica 5303?
Priced at £1,341, it is presented on a slinky and svelte woven mesh bracelet, ideal for that big keynote speech or sophisticated rendez-vous.
The table below outlines where you can pick up one of the novelties in the Serica 5303 collection
|
Reference |
Dial Colour |
|
Black |
|
|
Porcelain White |
|
|
Midnight Blue |
Alternatively, please contact us, and we’d be delighted to connect you with Gabriel and Jerome, should you want to buy a watch.
What’s Our View?
So what’s our overall thoughts?
A huge Bravo must go to les gars (that’s French for guys) in terms of bringing a diver to the table that has a certain je ne sais quoi about it. It’s no wonder this timepiece oozes a soupçon of Gallic flair.
Besides, France has brought us some of the greatest thinkers in the world like Moliere and Descartes, invented terms like gastronomy, while Marie and Pierre Curie, Louis Pasteur, and René Descartes revolutionised their fields
That’s before I even mention Johnny Halliday or Vincent Lagaf!
There’s a certain panache and certainty to these timepieces that make them one of the best microbrands in the horological sphere.
Quiet luxury and refinement are firmly on the agenda with an understated trio of dial declinations that can transcend from boardroom to beach bar effortlessly.
Ok, it might be a tool watch.
Nevertheless, it will hold up to all sorts of demure attire and as many wardrobe changes as Beyoncé. This is for someone who wants a well-constructed tool piece that’s not your usual Rolex Sea-Dweller or Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
Anyone who appreciates mechanical features (COSC chronometer, antimagnetic protection), unusual design nuance (dual scale bezel, optional left-side crown) and an impressive back story will be switched on to this wrist-worthy crowd pleaser.
Conclusion
Harmonious specs and something that's versatile and just at home as an everyday driver, this collection has just enough fancifulness to make it an excellent purchase…for far less than £5,000.
Let’s face it, you cannot go wrong with a black and white dial resonating timelessness and a must for any avid collector.
One of the most elegant, well-produced divers at this price point? Perhaps
With more character than a Victor Hugo book, like the famous French novelist, there’s something almost poetic about their offerings. Dynamic with an abundance of magnetic appeal (besides the 50,000 A/M), their vision is perfectly clear.
So what’s their vision for 2026? As Co-Founder Gabriel Vachette informed me in a never before heard soundbite;
“Since every SERICA development takes two to three years, 2026 is already fully mapped out, and it’s shaping up to be a major milestone for us. Expect a few long-awaited additions to our core collections, along with broader global presence as we continue to expand visibility worldwide….our intention remains unchanged: create instruments that feel essential, elevate our standards…and work closely with the best manufacturers...”
Not only are their watches more than fit for purpose, especially with COSC certification, there’s a distinctive design code, befitting of comfort, premium wearability and tremendous value.
Plus, they had the Teddy Baldassare seal of approval when they featured on 8 New Watch Brands Pitched Shark Tank Impresario Kevin O’Leary (Scroll to 14:18 within the clip)
What more do you want?!
Like a TAG Heuer Monaco, it’s the energetic spirit behind the brand that will capture many consumers and enthusiasts alike, as they are a real tour de force in the independent microbrand space.
You might say, they are making more waves than an Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M.
All you have to do is dive right in…
Looking to buy a Rolex or sell a Tudor Black Bay Pro to upgrade your wrist game?
It’s time to speak to Chrono Hunter. Contact us here to enjoy multiple offers from an exclusive network of the most reputable luxury retailers, carefully selected on the most stringent credentials.
With unmatched brand expertise, peerless service and fully insured, same-day shipping options, we cater to every type of consumer and collector across all top Swiss luxury watch brands, including Breitling, Cartier, IWC and more. Secure and seamless.
With countless 5 star reviews on Trustpilot, we are the go-to destination to buy a watch or sell a watch.
Discover, hunt, buy, sell
Images (Unless otherwise specified)
Serica
Further Reading:
Should You Still Buy A Rolex Sea-Dweller In 2025?
Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter
If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.
Compare Offers from the world's most reputable luxury watch retailers.
Save Time.
Save Money.
Personalised Service.
Hassle-Free.