Atelier Wen Inflection Goes All-Out Tantalum With New Girard-Perregaux Movement

Table of contents:

With an all-tantalum design architecture, three Grand Feu enamel dials and a super slim, bespoke Girard-Perregaux 3300 movement, it’s time to review the Atelier Wen Inflection

At A Glance

The integrated bracelet watch is taken to greater echelons of finishing and craftsmanship by way of this new collection, incorporating a 99.9% tantalum construction from the case and clasp to every separate link.
Established in 2018 by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, their overwhelming inspiration is drawn from Chinese national culture, architecture and heritage.
Following the successful Atelier Wen Perception ‘Millésime’ 睦 (Mù) with guilloché dial, engineered by Master Cheng Yucai’s 450kg rose engine, this involved a giveaway entitled “The Tantalum Tickets,” whereby three buyers received a model crafted from tantalum.
The first permanent collection in this material, the brushed, frosted and mirror-polished surfaces interplay with the Chinese philosophical concepts of 阴 (yīn) and 阳 (yáng), immersing the wearer in a duality of opposing qualities such as concave/convex.
A trio of Grand Feu enamel dials are showcased, ranging from pale green to a deep obsidian black and midnight blue. These are painstakingly made in the atelier of Kong Lingjun, considered one of China's foremost enamel workshops.

Haven’t we been here before? Perhaps.

Turn the clock back to September 2024, and a limited edition Atelier Wen Perception '鸿' (Hóng) in Full Tantalum was released. The vibrant red dial with svelte 9.4mm case thickness came…and swiftly went.

It was hot stuff, you could say.

Yet, they have waved zài jiàn (goodbye) to the Chinese based Dandong caliber SL1588. 12 months later with another Perception under their horological belt, in conjunction with French watchmaking stalwart Pequignet, it has taken more than three years to reach this latest zenith.

Despite tantalum being nigh on impossible to shape, with two permanent collections and one

continuous production line of bracelet watches, crafted entirely from this material, some have stepped up before.

Shout out to the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu and Fleming Series 1. Cows horns lugs and case only I’m afraid on the latter.

But now, the brand has broken the glass ceiling for their latest release. The hour is upon us, as we dive like a Rolex Submariner into our tantalising review of the Atelier Wen Inflection.

Why Is Tantalum Difficult To Machine?

Tantalum is prized in luxury watchmaking for its unique bluish-grey colour, density, and corrosion resistance, but it’s notoriously difficult to manufacture.

Heavier than gold, tantalum is both very hard and very ductile, meaning it resists deformation but “gums up” cutting tools. When machining or milling for watch cases or components, tools wear out quickly and heat builds up, which can distort or damage the metal surface.

Precision finishing, crucial in luxury watchmaking, is therefore slow, costly, and tool-intensive. Tantalum’s melting point is around 3,017 °C (5,463 °F) - one of the highest of any metal.

These are just some factors as to what makes the Atelier Wen Inflection so special and a feat of engineering prowess.

Personality Of The Atelier Wen Inflexion

“Tantalum behaves in a gummy, sticky way during machining; it ruins cutting tools almost immediately. The heat it generates doesn’t dissipate well…that’s why up to now, no one had ever serialised a full bracelet watch in pure tantalum”

Robin Tallendier, Founder of Atelier Wen, speaking exclusively to Chrono Hunter

Ignoring the fact this substance is, as the French say, “un cauchemar” (nightmare) to machines, it serves its purpose to tremendous effect. In watchmaking circles, this is as rare as a Patek Philippe reference 1518 in stainless steel. Note, only 4 that we know of exist globally.

Obsidian black dial variation

Involving a variety of polishing and vertical brushing techniques, the greyish-blue accent seems to dance majestically off this timepiece. Even the concave surfaces have this specific effect which is an arduous task in itself.

Midnight blue declination (渊 (Yuān)

Midnight blue declination (渊 (Yuān)

Whereas the Perception line was daring, it was much more angular and sharp as a pin, with a nod to its Chinese pagoda design language. But we are talking about a completely different one on the new Atelier Wen Inflection.

“Every single surface of the case and bracelet is either convex or concave; there isn’t a single flat plane. That made finishing exponentially harder, but it’s what allows the bluish-grey tone of tantalum to come alive. The reflections shift constantly, and the weight feels fluid rather than blocky.’

Wilfried Buiron, Co-Founder, Atelier Wen

There is much more of a softening of the angles, while the liquid-like centre links are globular and convey a real attention to detail. There are more curves than Sofia Loren on this novelty.

Measuring 40mm x 10.25mm and enjoying a super slim lug to lug of just 45mm, to give you a sizing perspective, it is 1.5mm slimmer than a 36mm Rolex Datejust ref. 126234 and 1mm less wide than an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500ST

幽 (Yōu) limited edition

Refined, elevated beyond measure albeit heavy on the wrist, the proportions are tailored well with the all tantalum construction displayed across a number of different elements featuring the case, bracelet, clasp, push-buttons located on the same element.

“When we started, only a handful of manufacturers in China had tried working with tantalum…We began trials with eleven partners and within a few months, only two were still willing to continue. It took nearly three years to reach a point where we could reliably machine, finish and assemble a full tantalum bracelet to our standards”

Robin Tallendier, Founder of Atelier Wen, talking to Chrono Hunter

Again, the difficulty of getting the bracelet right is mind bogglingly hard. We must reiterate that tantalum is so difficult to work with that there are no tolerances on the strap at all. Drilling the holes is just as arduous on these types of watches and can fail in a matter of split seconds.

There’s a short clasp that has a micro-adjustment system, benefiting from four different positions. This can be easily adjusted for those debonair gents on the move with a quick press of the clasp which has the brand logo embossed on it.

IMAGE

The quick release system ensures easy transfer from stainless steel to their other option, namely FKM rubber and sailcloth.

Jungle Kong

Responsible for the incredible Grand Feu enamel dials behind the new Atelier Wen Inflection is the horological VIP himself, Master Kong Lingjun. In 2021, his technical mastery was acclaimed as he was given the award for best enameler across China.

The Picasso of this age-old technique, his deft hands have not only been responsible for the brand’s previous novelty, the Jiao, but he is hands on again with this new inception.

Recognised by the China Horologe Association, simultaneously, he attempts to siphon his way with the utmost care, as half the dials produced don’t make the cut.

Seeing is really believing. Check out this clip here with the man of the hour in action in his Beijing workshop, conversing about his deep love affair with master enamelling.

Did You Know?

The moment the enamel layers are dry, the dial is fired at roaring hot temperatures between

750-850°C, six more times until the correct tones are accomplished.

Dial It Up

Presented as three Grand Feu enamel dials, let's break this down for a minute.

幽 (Yōu) - Launch Edition

Limited to 30 pieces, the highlight is without doubt the fumé enamel dial that ranges from a pale green to a rich viridian. Latin for green and discovered in France as a colour in 1838, there is a hand-hammered silver dial base, white Arabic numerals and rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands with frosted mid-plane

墨 (Mò)

Part of the official permanent collection, this deep tone is unveiled as obsidian black, and is darker than Bruce Wayne wearing a Rolex Batman ref. 126710BLNR. Taking on an ink-like appearance, there are gilt Arabic numerals and 5N gold-plated hands. On a 925 silver dial base, we like the classic almost Breguet style numbers, marrying perfectly with gilt tri-planed leaf hands.

渊 (Yuān)

The second permanent variant in the new Atelier Wen Inflection series is a midnight blue hue, with no expense spared on the Grand Feu enamel work.

Identical to the 墨 (Mò), its 925-silver dial base is paired with white Arabic hour markers and tri-planed leaf hands that are rhodium-plated.

Poetic in its conceptualisation and delivery, each singular hand-hammered dial is painstakingly hand-forged to achieve its distinctive hammered texture.

The surface maintains a perfectly uniform depth and distribution, allowing light to play across its facets with measured rhythm. Through this delicate process, artisans coax out subtle tonal gradients—a living spectrum of shadow and sheen that reveals the natural soul of the metal.

Official Specs - Atelier Wen Inflection

Case Diameter	40mm
Case Material	99.9% pure tantalum with mixed concave and convex surfaces, mirror-polished chamfers
Case Thickness	10.25mm
Dial	● 幽 (Yōu), Launch Edition ○ Hand-hammered 925-silver dial with fumé Grand Feu enamel ● 墨 (Mò) ○ Obsidian black grand feu enamel on a 925-silver base ● 渊 (Yuān) ○ Midnight blue Grand Feu enamel on a 925-silver dial base
Hour Markers	White Arabic with a custom font - 幽 (Yōu) Gilt Arabic hour markers in signature font 墨 (Mò) Arabic hour markers in white with custom font 渊 (Yuān)
Lug to Lug	45mm
Hands Material	Rhodium-plated - 幽 (Yōu) Gilt leaf - 墨 (Mò) Rhodium-plated 渊 (Yuān)
Sapphire	Yes, Double domed, box crystal
AR Coating	Yes, 5 layers and same amount on the caseback
Crown	Screw Down
Water Resistance	10ATM / 100 Metres / 10 Bar / 330 feet
Limited Edition	Yes, 100 pieces for the first twelve months of production. There will only be 30 幽 (Yōu) watches produced, then it will be discontinued. 70 pieces as part of the permanent collection will be divided (subject to demand) in the other declinations, namely, the 墨 (Mò) in black, and 渊 (Yuān) in blue. Both 墨 (Mò) and 泽 (Zé) form part of the permanent line

Girard-Perregaux 3300 Movement

Beating inside the new Atelier Wen Inflection is the heart of a horological champion, in the form of the svelte Girard-Perregaux 3300 calibre.

Mic drop...

Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the cradle of watchmaking, this top Swiss Manufacture has teamed up with them, resulting in a real feast for the eyes. Integrating an impeccably finished, highly accurate customised movement is nothing new to this brand.

Step back in time for a second and reflect on our review of their previous model, the Ancestra, housing a dedicated in-house movement by one of the stalwarts of French Haute Horlogerie, Pequignet.

Ok, so the latter may be responsible for the Calibre Royale, boasting a whopping 96 hour power reserve versus the 48 hours (ish) inside the Inflection. But this is something not to be sniffed at.

And something else with a smell of success is the way they have paired up with the big hitters in the Swiss luxury watch industry like Girard-Perregaux. This is a bigger move for Robin and Wilfried, but nonetheless highly impressive.

We’re talking about unparalleled fields of finishing, decoration and craftsmanship in the pursuit of even higher quality watches and standards of excellence. The support of GP championing their goals is testament to those objectives.

Created by the brand’s chief designer Alfred Chan, Girard Perregaux and mechanical engineer cum industrial design specialist Sidoine Lescauville, the movement bridges incorporate plenty of curved sweeping lines.

Here comes the heritage bit..

It is a representation of the ancient motifs of wind in historical Chinese paintings. Its pure symbolism carries rich and diverse symbolic meanings which depicts moral virtue and resilience, the dynamic forces of nature, and emotional or societal upheaval.

Wind, or feng, is often depicted through its effect on natural elements, as it is an invisible force with mounds of dramatic contours that became a key concept, as part of the late Shang Dynasty.

There are partially skeletonised channels found within the Girard-Perregaux 3300 movement, making a dramatic almost floating impact to its overall visuals.

FIND OUT MORE: 13 Most Popular Girard-Perregaux Watches For Men At Every Price Point

Angles and anglage are just as imposing thanks to the bridges which are plated with ruthenium. It enhances both durability and corrosion resistance when alloyed with platinum or palladium.

In watchmaking, ruthenium’s dark, lustrous tone lends a modern and sophisticated aesthetic, prized in both technology and design; it embodies strength, rarity, and enduring elegance that can be seen.

Anglage on the bridges sits effortlessly alongside laser-etched waves, spiralling outward from the centre of the movement, their flowing côtes catching the light, evoking a sense of kinetic energy.

Affixed with black-polished screws, rounding off the movement is a two part rotor, aligned with a tungsten weight. This is attached to the end of brass spokes, five in total and finished in rose gold.

Official Movement Specs

Country of Manufacture	Switzerland
Movement Thickness	3.36mm
Movement Diameter	25.6mm
Number of Components	218
Number of Jewels	27
Regulation	Tested in five different positions
Mechanism	Self-winding mechanical
Power Reserve	48 hours
Hacking Seconds	Yes
Vph	28,800 (4Hz)
Functions	Seconds, hours, minutes
Daily Accuracy	-0/+10s per day

Where Can You Buy An Atelier Wen Inflection?

Allow us a second (or two).

Although acquiring these watches is nearly as complicated as the detail from the workshop of Kong Lingjun, it’ll be worth it for some lucky aficionados.

Due to the intricate production of tantalum when it comes to finishing and polishing, production remains low. But don’t despair. We explain below what the brand is doing. But first, the pricin

Material	Price
Tantalum	Retail price for the all-tantalum execution is US$29,800. (Around £22,600 or 26,000 Euros) Please note that taxes and duties are not included.
Sailcloth and FKM rubber strap version, complete with a tantalum buckle	$19,800 (Around £15,000 or 17,200 Euros) excluding tax and duties.

**Every client who wants to buy a watch in the bracelet version will be given either a sailcloth or FKM rubber strap in the accent of their choice.**

The Process

It’s not quite as gruelling as a twelve week stint on The Apprentice with Lord Sugar. But according to the brand, as per the hit BBC One show, allocations will be officially arranged via an application procedure.

More to follow…

This will be carefully vetted by the Atelier Wen team so that each watch will ensure it goes on the wrist of an appropriate owner. There’s no flaunting or flexing rainbow Daytonas here.

Then, and only when the brand has plucked their chosen ones that another stage will take place. An introductory conversation with Co-Founders Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron. I can certainly vouch for knowing Robin for quite some time (pardon the pun!), that you are in great hands!

One of the most humble guys on the scene.

Here, you can take the chance to ask him and Wilfried anything surrounding the novelty or general queries about what they have done to date as a whole.

Once the chaps have finally chosen who is to acquire the watch based on the above criteria, the final stages are as follows;

Applicants place a deposit for the declination of their choosing, i.e. either the 幽 (Yōu) 墨 (Mò) or 渊 (Yuān). This is down to availability at the time.
Payment will be divided into three separate tranches. Firstly, one must place a 30% deposit, followed by two subsequent payments.
The remaining 30% will be paid as soon as the case and bracelet blanks are completed while the remaining 40% will be done prior to full fulfillment.
Allocations as well as applications will be done on a rolling basis, meaning that new batches will open up once previous ones are filled.

What’s Our View?

Well, they have done it again. The Atelier Wen Inflection is on point and of the moment. Once again, like the Patek Philippe 5720P-001 with that gorgeous salmon dial, there’s much to admire…and to gawp at.

Grand Feu enamelling of the highest order. Dedicated blood, sweat and horological tears at the turntable of the Kong Lingjun atelier. Oh we ain’t talking about Pete Tong type work. This is on another level. You can’t buy this stuff of legends. It’s priceless.

Then you have the all tantalum design code that’s not only groundbreaking but bold. Besides, this is tackling a material that is as complex to handle as Stephen Hawking's black hole theory.

This is (almost) as tricky as tricky gets in this craft.

Add in a movement by legendary top Swiss luxury watch brand Girard-Perregaux (Laureato and all), and you have a genuine timekeeping recipe for success. Sure, the price may be nearly five times the price of their previous model, the Jiao. The sailcloth model of the Atelier Wen Inflection is just a smidgen under twenty grand.

But who cares when you look at the overall offering... My motto? You pay what you get and get what you pay for. If you want the straight and narrow, buy a Rolex Sky-Dweller 336934 and still have change left over. A few thousand, anyway.

Some may baulk at the price. But if you want high-quality finishing, a back story with incredible Chinese heritage, master artisanal work from a highly regarded dial enameller and a pioneering all-tantalum case, you’d be hard pressed to find a better independent release this year.

And a tough choice for those enthusiasts who choose to stay with what they know. As Canadian singer-songwriter Avril Lavigne stated in 2002, “Why'd you have to go and make things so complicated?”

Conclusion

If you want to be the best, dedication is what you need.

Evolving from the Porcelain Odyssey priced under £1000 to this new model, with a starting point of more than £18,000, is almost as bold as Neil Armstrong rocking the Omega Speedmaster on Apollo 11.

Nevertheless, we doth our timekeeping cap again to former private equity guru Robin and the team for what they have accomplished on the new Atelier Wen Inflection. This latest novelty showcases and develops on previous watches that have more than cut the mustard with enthusiasts.

Constantly evolving, yet pushing down greater boundaries, especially with this all-tantalum number, the fact that they have Girard-Perregaux on their side tells its own story.

Shaking up the industry as we know it, although these price points are on your Rolex Daytona scales, there is still no doubt that they will fill all applications. It’s a tribute to the passage of time and how the brand has developed their horological influence.

Mind you, with this new collection, it’s not a matter of Atelier Who…rather Atelier Wen.

Looking to buy a Girard-Perregaux at the best possible price? Want to sell a Rolex and level up to a Grand Feu enamel dial? Then now is the time to get in touch with Chrono Hunter.

Our market-leading platform ensures multiple offers from a carefully vetted selection of trusted buyers and authorised dealers. Featuring quick turnaround, first class service, fully insured shipping options and unmatched brand expertise.

Catering to every type of consumer and collector, we cover all major brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Omega, Cartier and more. We strive to deliver the best buying and selling experience, conducted with the utmost safety and security in mind.

Discover, hunt, buy, sell

Images (Unless otherwise stated)

Atelier Wen

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

Compare Offers from the world's most reputable luxury watch retailers.

Save Time.

Save Money.

Personalised Service.

Hassle-Free.