HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini & SpaceBoy Make Splash With Revamped Skin Divers

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Affordable skin divers with attitude. Offering 120 click bezel, reworked dials and plenty of vintage vibes, introducing the HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and HTD SpaceBoy

In Brief

Based in Florence, this independent Italian brand has turned back the clock with its up to the minute dive watches at entry-level prices.
With a hint of early throwbacks to 1970s dive watch models, dial designs, and sleeker elongated cases have been improved from the initial launch in 2021.
Combining the right balance of sportiness and classic good looks, the slinky profile alludes both utilitarian and wearability as a daily beater.
While the Bicchierini (formerly Palletoni) has a signature diver dial with 3,6,9 batons, lending to a Rolex Submariner visual, the SpaceBoy enjoys a retro Girard Perregaux appeal, with compressed numbers inside triangles at the 3, 6 and 9 positions.
Housed inside is the popular Miyota 90S5, a sterling choice for many microbrands, appealing to many for its workhorse-like properties.

Ah, skin divers.

Be they utilitarian tool watches or an everyday piece, everyone wants to add their two cents. And today, it’s the turn of Italian brand HTD.

Established in Florence in 2020 by Federico Del Guerra and Federico Zulian, they sought to blend their passion for mechanics and vintage watches with motorsports-inspired designs.

They hit the big time with the Hesagraph collection, featuring hand-wound Seagull movements and a bi-compax layout.

Reminiscent of an early TAG Heuer Autavia that was as trendy in the 60s as psychedelic prints and Jackie Kennedy (Cartier Tank wearer), the brand has branched out into solid skin divers that don’t cost the earth.

Before we enter the abyss and review the HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and HTD SpaceBoy, let’s take a minute to plunge into where this phenomenon began.

Where Did Skin Divers Originate?

Skin divers hold a special place in the world of horology.

Jacques Yves Cousteau, the king of skin divers, wearer of an Omega Ploprof 600

Jacques Yves Cousteau, the king of skin divers, wearer of an Omega Ploprof 600. Source Wikimedia Commons

Born from a time when underwater exploration was gaining popularity, these timepieces were designed to meet the needs of early recreational divers

Particularly, skin divers, who dove with minimal gear and relied heavily on timekeeping for safety.

Origins in the 1950s–60s: The Rise Of Recreational Diving

The concept of a diver wasn't entirely new by the 1950s - Rolex introduced the Oyster case in 1926, and the Rolex Submariner debuted in 1953.

During the late 1950s and 1960s, skin diving (breath-hold diving without scuba tanks) surged in popularity, especially in Europe and the United States.

These recreational divers needed affordable, reliable, and water-resistant watches to track dive time.

Skin diver watches were the answer and designed for shallow to moderate depths - perfect for casual diving and swimming.

As tools designed for the adventurous yet accessible to the everyday wearer, they represent a perfect blend of functionality, simplicity, and style.

Several watchmakers released skin diver models during the golden era (around the late 1950s to 1970s). Notable examples include:

Longines Skin Diver (1950s): One of the earliest examples, recently reissued due to its cult status.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe: A variant of the iconic Fifty Fathoms tailored for recreational divers.
Omega Seamaster 120: A slimmer, more affordable alternative to the Seamaster 300.

Their enduring appeal lies not only in their design but in the captivating spirit of adventure they evoke - proof that shallow waters can lead to deep stories.

Personality Of The HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and SpaceBoy

"Aquatìc is a dive watch we recently re-introduced as part of our aim to offer a complete collection ready to buy. We'll still develop new limited editions, but as our team and fan base grow, we want to take care of all of them without having unhappy people."

Exclusive soundbite from Federico Del Guerra, Co-Founder of HTD Watches

The elongated profile makes it a slim wrist-worthy experience that many wearers will like with identical specs on both watches, albeit with different dial layouts. Pressure tested to 200 metres, it means they are suitable for snorkelling, swimming, diving, and other high-speed water sports.

2 Stainless steal HTD watches

There’s a screw down crown and 120 click- bezel with a dive insert made from black aluminium. The focus on technical specs certainly relates to these types of watches when it comes to the composition of elements and functionality.

After all, HTD stands for Horological Tools Department.

As for finishing, note the brushed case that has polished chamfers and flanks, while the bezel with applied lume pip at 12 has been altered with a faceted grip, alluding to a nicer contrast.

Side profile of the HTD (Horological Tools Department) Watch

Hats off to the R&D department.

With sub 40mm case diameter (39.4mm), this sits alongside a thickness of 9.5mm. With the sapphire crystal, it still only tips the horological scales at less than 12mm…at 11.5mm.

To put this into perspective, both models are nearly 2mm less than the in-demand Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST and 1mm thinner than a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph housing Calibre 5200 in a pretty panda dial.

Bicchierini - Everything You Need To Know

With improvements on all sides, quite literally, form and function go hand in hand.

The New HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini Watch worn on mans wrist

Although “Skindiver” has disappeared quicker than Lord Lucan on the dial, there is a notable improvement in the BGW9 Swiss lume makeover.

There is an arrow-tipped second hand that sits alongside the hour and minute hands that have been given a generous daube of lume.

The dots and dashes don’t refer to Morse Code but to its signature display with traditional baton indices situated at 3, 6 and 9.

"Born as a company around chronographs and racing, a second project covering a dive watch was driven by the passion for sport...We decided our "second album" should show enthusiasts we are more than racing, we're here to build something bigger, and it was a success. This new step, moving from limited editions only to an available collection, is part of the growth and success we are having."

Federico Zulian, Co-Founder HTD Watches

Do I detect a little resemblance to a vintage Tudor Black Bay Pro, oh so hot Rolex Submariner 124060 no date? As Doris Day recounted in 1965…Perhaps, Perhaps, Perhaps

So what else is new?

The New HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini displayed along side some tools

Not only has the dial changed, but the name, to Bicchierini. A more refined approach has been taken with this execution that takes in a sandblasted finish that’s embellished with polished steel for maximum effect.

SpaceBoy- Essential Details

The difference in this timepiece is the thick printed “Shield” numerals in a negative print positioned at 3, 6 and 9 with its colour inversion and a greater density of lume.

The New HTD SpaceBoy Watch

This is in order to provide a somewhat 3D effect, but it goes further thanks to its ultra-retro aesthetics that convey a genuine skin diver feel to this novelty.

Sporty and stylish (for a fraction of the cost), there are fully polished hands with an extended triangle that’s inverted at 12, which some may love…or hate.

The New HTD SpaceBoy Watch laying flat with full display of strap

Baton markers have the same thick daube of lume across the case, but this lends itself to excellent visibility in low-light conditions.

Simple, inoffensive and legible, though this isn’t going to win any Emmys in terms of design, skin divers are a tried and tested concept that’s quite rightly stood the test of time.

The New HTD SpaceBoy Displayed on a wrist

The SpaceBoy, in our humble view, is akin to say a Girard Perregaux Gyromatic, especially the compressed triangles.

The Oyster style bracelet is well made and as classic as an Omega Speedmaster, thanks to its three row links that come with a folding clasp and push-button opening. Despite four micro adjustments, tools are necessary for alterations

Official Specs - HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy

Reference	A25F09B (Aquatìc Bicchierini) A25F09S (Aquatìc SpaceBoy)
Case Diameter	39.4mm
Case Thickness	11.5mm (including sapphire glass)
Case Material	316L Stainless Steel
Bezel Insert	Yes, black aluminium
Type Of Crystal	Boxed Sapphire
Caseback	Both Screw Down and Crown
Dial Colours	Matte Black, indexes are applied/luminous *(Bicchierini)* Colour invented numbers with printed indexes/luminous *(SpaceBoy)*
Hands	Polished, domed
Bezel	120 clicks with ball bearing actuation. Aluminium insert. Lume pip is applied.
Lug to Lug	47mm
Lug Width	20mm
Strap	Three-row bracelet made from stainless steel
Clasp Style	Push-button. Folding
Water Resistance	200 metres / 20ATM / 20 Bar / 660ft
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, 60-minute dive bezel
Super-Luminova	BGW9
Price	£587.35 (At the time of writing)

Miyota 90S5 Movement

Pulsating inside the HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and SpaceBoy lies the Miyota 90S5.

Belonging to the 90/91 family, including the 9015, 9019 and 9039, it’s part of the brand’s “Premium Automatic” series. The movement uses a “stop‑second device” (i.e. when you pull the crown to set, the second hand stops.

Utilised where thinness is the name of the game, its slim profile of 3.9mm lends itself to an up to the minute slim fit that many wearers looking to buy a watch are after.

Although core mechanical performance (28,800 vph, ~42h reserve, hacking, manual winding) is respectable, aligning it with many respectable mid‑range movements, it’s no Soprod or La Joux-Perret.

Although we hasten to add you’ll be paying bigger bucks or Euros than the sub 800 Euro price point this watch retails at.

Look, you can’t have all your horological cake…and eat it.

This classic three hander is clean and, like Ronseal, it does exactly what it says on the tin. Plus it’s a skin diver!

The crown has two positions, winding and adjustment of time, but don’t let that deter you with its equilibrium of affordability and solid construction. The finishing is decent and arguably the best in this specific collection

Other watches that house the Miyota 90S5 movement include;

Kurono Seiji
Lorier Neptune Series IV
Jiunghan Time Vortex
RZE Resolute Pro

Official Movement Specs

Origin Of Manufacture	Japan
Type Of Movement	Automatic
Movement Diameter	26mm
Movement Thickness	3.9mm
Antishock	Yes, Parashock
Direction Of Rotor	Uni-directional
Power Reserve	42 hours
Vph	28,800 (4Hz)
Number Of Jewels	24
Hacking Seconds	Yes
Manual Winding	Yes
Accuracy	-10 ~ +30 seconds per day

Where Can You Buy an HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy?

Presented on a signature HTD 323 stainless steel bracelet with an understated design, found on their Hesagraph and Tennis models, you can pick one up here

**Shipping for the initial 300 pieces begins from September 2025 onwards**

If you want to inquire about buying one through Chrono Hunter, do not hesitate to contact us directly, and we will be happy to assist.

What’s Our View?

If you are looking to build or add to your ultimate watch collection, everyone needs a diver of some sort.

And this, for many, will tick most of the timekeeping boxes.

There’s a reason why dive watches have gained momentum and notoriety ever since the first Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, released in 1953.

Versatile, ergonomic and incorporating technical aspects such as 200 metres of water resistance, first rate dial clarity and bezel timing, it sets many wearers up for sun-kissed escapades and nautical adventures.

What was predominantly a tool piece, constructed for those saturation diving pros or something to wear over scuba diving, has now evolved into a discreet everyday number that’s fit for the boardroom or the beaches of Bali.

Look, is the HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and HTD SpaceBoy a conversation starter? Perhaps not. However, is it a reliable, affordable piece that can easily fit into any winder roll?

Absolutely.

It’s not going to set the world alight for design, but look how iconic the Bluesy, Hulk or Rolex Sea-Dweller is to the brand that Hans Wilsdorf built.

Priceless.

Conclusion

Although the price has gone up slightly since their first inception, on the face of it, we are never going to tire of dive watches. Never.

Robust and as agile as a Jaguar when exploring the plains of the Serengeti, the specs are undeniable, the production is unapologetic and the price…uncompromising.

There is much to admire from this Italian outfit whose no-nonsense approach to watchmaking, combining 60s and 70s Formula One vibes with a touch of Italian craftsmanship, and you have a fun, economical yet playful take on a concept that’s been around for decades.

Now that’s what I call a slice of La Dolce Vita.

Looking to buy a diver from a major brand at the best price? Want to buy a Rolex Submariner, or sell a Rolex Deepsea and level up your wrist game? It’s time to talk to Chrono Hunter.

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Images:

Unless otherwise stated; HTD