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Top Zenith Watches to Buy and Invest in 2024

Zenith is like the fun Uncle at a birthday party. Everything’s looking a little dour and miserable and then he makes his entrance stage left, blasting renditions of “Sweet Caroline” or getting the grandparents dancing.

This analogy may seem far off but it couldn't be closer to the truth. After the misery of the Quartz Crisis, the brand was secretly working on the “El Primero” calibre behind closed doors, even though they were told to get rid of the equipment related to mechanical watches during the 70s.

When the El Primero calibre was released in 1969 and recontinued in 1984, Rolex adopted the calibre in 1988, promoting their Rolex Daytona and reigniting the passion for sporty mechanical chronograph watches. Take for example the Rolex Daytona 16520. Nicknamed The “Zenith Daytona”, this Rolex was the first to proudly boast the El Primero calibre. Suffice to say, its reputation had since exploded, resulting in the piece becoming a grail watch among the horological community.

So when did Rolex Daytona stop using the Zenith movement? 2000 to be precise which was the annulment of their beloved relationship when Rolex decided to introduce their first ever in-house chronograph movement. The brand’s history is laced with comebacks and last minute moments just as Ole Gunnar Solskjaer's late winner in the 1999 UEFA Champions League Final. Synonymous with chronograph models due to the El Primero calibre and their constant strive for technical innovation, the brand cannot be discounted as one of the best luxury watch brands to date. Established in 1865, it's been over 150 years of pure horological bliss for passionate enthusiasts and hungry horophiles.

You know the history. You know the joy they’ve brought to us, horological consumers. Do they have a saviour complex? I would! We think it’s time you rode on our coattails right up to the Zenith of timekeeping greatness. It’s time to reveal the best Zenith watches to buy and invest in 2024.

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

Only a fool would fly without taking proper precautions…

Zenith Pilot Big Date source - reddit

Released during Watches and Wonders 2023, The Pilot Big Date Flyback is man’s best friend when it comes to roaming the skies. Available in two different versions, you can get your hands on a steel edition or a black ceramic version in a manageable 42.5mm sizing which won’t dominate the wrist like a Panerai Submersible.

The steel edition undergoes a sporty brushed aesthetic, adhering to the manly persona of the timepiece. The black ceramic edition prides itself on a micro blasted finish, ensuring it is given a matte aesthetic which allows the dial to be boosted and turbo charged.

Movement

Powered by the famed El Primero calibre, this piece runs at an exceptional 36,000 VpH and has a strong power reserve of 60 hours. Weekend proof this certainly is. The calibre is more than capable of dealing with the Flyback chronograph functions such as the 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock, the big date functions at 6 o’clock and the small seconds located at 9 o’clock.

Dial

The steel edition features a rainbow circle around the 30 minute subdial which is a tremendous ode to the El Primero Rainbow Flyback from 1997. It’s a great edition to anyone seeking to buy a Zenith with a dash of vintage inspiration.

Both models clearly define two sub dials at 3 and 9 o’clock while there’s a big date aperture residing over 6 o’clock. Given classic Arabic numerals, you could fly through a hurricane and still see this magnificent dial! You can’t forget you are wearing a stunning piece, fit for any watch collection as both editions have the brands name under 12 o’clock and “Pilot” at 6 o’clock in bold white text.

Bracelet

The black ceramic edition enjoys a fantastic Pilot Jet Blackstone strap in either black or khaki. Given a condura effect, these rubber straps follow the same supple feel of leather while being less likely to show marks and scrapes due to their rubber construction.

The steel edition features the same black condura style rubber strap but has the option of a brown calfskin leather strap. The steel triple folding clasp ensures security and also swiftness in the event you want to thrust your beloved timepiece in the faces of your buddies. Remember, no one likes a showoff!

Why Should I Invest?

The steel model harks to the past when the brand was (and still is) dominating the chronograph scene. The subtle coloured ring is a highly collectable feature due to its associations with their vintage watches. The black ceramic version may lack this distinct allure, but it makes up for it with the highly modern ceramic build.

We recommend wearing the pieces for a variety of situations. Need a sleek timepiece for your best friend's wedding? Get the black ceramic to fit in with the black suit or tux. Want to look top of your game while flying first class? Plump for the steel version and showboat your knowledge of aviation history!

You can buy a Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback at retail (as of July 2023)

Ceramic version - £11,900

Steel version - £10,100

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

The Chronomaster as a collection is as innovative as the first Apple computer. And boy has it taken a great big bite out of the chronograph market.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport source - Swisswatchesmagazine

Representing the peak of chronograph timepieces, Zenith has brought together the design codes from the past and infused them with the rapid fire El Primero calibre. Crafted out of stainless steel, these watches are instantly brought to sporting legacy's forefront. Everyone knows the best sports watches are made from steel, right?

Measuring 41mm, the timepiece is manageable in terms of size while at the same time representing the brand's turn to modernity as the previous edition was 45mm. The bezel is crafted out of black ceramic and looks highly reminiscent of a Rolex Daytona. It instantly bolsters the sporty aspect of the timepiece, in either its white or black dial face.

Movement

Yes, Timelords. The El Primero is back with a vengeance! The El Primero 3600 movement runs at a great 36,000VpH which results in a phenomenal 1/10th of a second rotation. Like Kylie Minogue, you’ll be spinning around with horological joy at this cracking calibre. Providing 60 hours of power reserve, you’ll have no fear of running out of juice while on your weekend getaway or last minute overseas business meeting.

Dial

As mentioned, Zenith has prioritised their heritage in this edition thanks to the design codes of the El Primero A386 from 1969 and other models like the El Primero De Luca from the 80s and 90s.

With the option of a matte white dial or black lacquered dial, the sub dials don’t follow the conventional panda dial pattern with a fixed colour. Instead, the colours vary from navy, grey and a dirty great cream. Against the black dial, the brighter sub dials are instantly visible and vice versa for the white dial as the darker sub dials stand out.

The indices, hour and minute hands are rhodium plated and tapered throughout the timepiece. Coated with Super-Luminova, they are extremely legible which is ideal for you Formula 1 sports fanatics racing off into the night like a Formula 1 pro!

Bracelet

The bracelet correlates to the satin brushed finishing of the old school veteran, The El Primero De Luca. This edition blends both brushing and polishing to allow for a mirror like centre and has more of a rugged edge than Chris Hemsworth.

Was that Sunday Lunch a bit too big for you? Perhaps. If so, you can simply let go and employ the use of the micro-adjustment feature to allow for a quick alteration while on the move.

Why Should I Invest?

Sporty chronographs are all the rage at the moment. Zenith is staying well ahead of the curve by ensuring the model is capped at a manageable 41mm and giving a fresh look at the sub dials.

Now Zenith has never been one for a convention. The tri-colour sub dials stand out sublimely and add a luxurious feel to this sporty chronograph watch. Don’t get us wrong, this is definitely an action man’s model through and through. The pushers on the side and the steely construction relate to the rock’n’roll lifestyle of get up and go chronograph watches.

This has the potential to be a valuable piece as its ceramic bezel and tri-colour sub dial complexion is unusual for most chronograph watches. The fact that this novelty is also capable of running at an astonishing 5Hz with a 60 hour power reserve means this could be one of the best chronograph watches out there right now.

We suggest wearing this while chilling out with friends over a few beers or looking sharp at the big Monday morning meeting. Steel is forever in favour as a classic material!

You can buy a Zenith Chronomaster Sport at retail for £9,700.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

The Pilot Automatic thoroughly enjoys its heritage but isn't bound to it. Very much like the Rolling Stones and their racy past!

Pilot Automatic - Source - Zenith

The latest edition of the Pilot Automatic from Watches and Wonders 2023 takes a few design codes from its predecessor and seeks to appease the modern user. As such, the case size has decreased from 45mm to 40mm in either stainless steel or ceramic. The latest edition changes the style by adopting a rounded bezel on top of an equally rounded case.

There’s a real thing for sleekness and slimmer watches, didn’t you know? For the steel version, the surfaces are satin-brushed while the edges are polished, enhancing the chamfered effect. The black ceramic edition goes for a micro blasted effect which is as subtle as a Banksy artwork. Even down to the crown, it exchanges the prominence of it from older models and gives it a sleeker build with a better grip.

Movement

The model runs on the El Primero 3620 movement. As a manufactured calibre, the watch is Zenith through and through. At an incomparable 5Hz with a strong power reserve of 60 hours, the model is no “Steady Eddie”, Timelords! But it is without doubt “weekend proof.”

Dial

The steel and black ceramic editions both feature black corrugated dial faces. This essentially means slender, horizontal lines are etched across the face, resulting in a sublime backdrop for the bright white luminescent Arabic numerals and hands to beam out.

The date aperture situated at 6 o’clock has the same background as the black dial but features the same white lettering to promote its legibility. Don’t be nervous if you think this isn't a suitable pilot’s timepiece. This beast is still as clear as day.

Bracelet

The black ceramic edition features a Jet Blackstone strap in black or khaki condura effect finishes. They can easily be secured with a triple fold steel clasp that’s given a PVD coating.

The steel edition features a black rubber strap with the same condura effect as well as a smooth brown leather strap. The quick-release system which is installed into the lugs allows for a quick change in any given circumstance.

Why Should I Invest?

Black ceramic is extremely popular due to its association with durability and luxury. While it does not retain the same shine as precious metals, its unique micro blasted finish entitles the piece to be a one off model in your collection. Need we mention The Zenith Pilot’s fantastic track record in terms of its heritage?

With the ability to quickly slide a brown leather strap onto the steel model, these watches can be worn in a variety of situations like shaking hands after a big business deal or kicking back with your loved one in Santa Cruz.

You can buy a Zenith Pilot Automatic at retail (as of July 2023);

Ceramic - £8,500

Steel - £6,700

Zenith Defy Skyline And Skeleton Ceramic

Watches and Wonders 2023 has really just been a horological playground for the brand.

Defy Skyline Ceramic - Source - Zenith

They’ve certainly flexed their timekeeping muscles with both an updated Defy Skyline and Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Boutique Edition. Why not…if you have got it? The Skyline collection was released in 2022 and offered a new perspective on the Defy line. The collection needed a little push into the sports luxury category and these new releases have certainly achieved it.

Totalling 41mm each, they are both made from the wildly popular black ceramic material. Of course, the model is nothing without the little touches such as the combination of satin-polishing and straight polished surfaces to attain the beautiful glean.

Given an octagonal casing with a hemmed in bezel, we wouldn’t be surprised if our old friend Gerald Genta had a say on this!

Movement

The brand and calibre are like England and football. They will forever be entwined and always be the best (we like to tell ourselves!).

The El Primero 3620 calibre is made in house and runs at a speedy 36,000VpH. Powering the 1/10th of a second indicator at 9 o’clock for the non-skeletonised version and 6 o’clock for the skeletonised edition, the watches offer 60 hours power reserve. Enough time for you to hop on a quick European break and be back at your desk for the Monday morning rush.

Dial

The dial on the non-skeletonised edition is exceptionally legible. This is due to the galvanised finish that takes place and the subsequent sunray pattern that is made up of rows of miniscule stars. If you still aren't seeing stars in your eyes, you will have noticed the rhodium plated hands and baton indices that are given a good daubing of Super-Luminova.

The skeletonised watches follow a very visible star style background, made up of four different arrow arrangements. The skeletonised dial allows for the bridges and the main plate to be exposed, resulting in a highly modernised construction.

It offers a level of detail that is not as present in standard watches. Even the oscillating weight is satin-finished and the winding mechanism is designed to offer a star shape. This isn’t avant garde per se, to fit the mould, this is revolutionary because it's most definitely Zenith!

Bracelet

The black ceramic casing goes all the way down into the integrated bracelet. As a highly durable and exceptionally beautiful material, they have missed no tricks by sticking an integrated bracelet of the same material onto it.

While it’s all starting to sound a little too “Royal Oak”, Zenith has built themselves a luxury sports watch that prioritises speed and style in a wonderful amalgamation of Haute Horologie.

Why Should I Invest?

That depends. How willing are you to buy a Zenith and invest in the future of luxury sports watches?

Offering 100 metres of water resistance and a 41mm ceramic case, you can have the perfect blend of efficiency, world class movement and premium style with the highly in trend black ceramic material and experimental skeletonised dial constructions.

You could pull either of these watches off while strutting your stuff on the red carpet at The Grammy’s to looking breezy in the summer sun of Mexico. The material is versatile and while it would probably look best for the more black tie orientated events, it could be worn as an everyday watch for those who want to pull out the versatility goods all the time.

You can buy a Zenith Defy Skyline Ceramic at retail (as of July 2023);

Skeletonised version - £15,000

Standard version - £13,300

Zenith Defy Revival Shadow

I’m sure a lot of you (including us) were on the edge of your seats at the announcement of a new Defy Revival. The predecessors came in colour, offering a different edge to the brand’s collection. Would it really be Zenith if it wasn’t a release fit for an enthusiast or would-be collector?

Defy Shadow - Source - La Cote des Montres

As the very first DEFY timepiece from 1969, the brand is bringing it back with an assuring stylistic choice of minimalism...with plenty of horological gusto to boot.

Housing a very modern 37mm case, the Defy Shadow features the classic fourteen sided bezel and is built from the highly lauded titanium. Its lightweight properties as well as its better durability than steel means it is instantly enhanced over its steely brethren. The micro-blasting effect is paramount to the watches mysterious draw, especially since the colour scheme is so muted to grey and black accents.

Movement

Powered by the Elite 670 calibre, it deviates from the classic El Primero calibre. But don’t hang your heads in shame too quickly, time peeps.

Pulsating at a respectable 28,800VpH, it has a minimum power reserve of 50 hours. Allowing the central hours and minutes with the curiously placed date aperture at 4.30, this will run the basics to an ever so solid standard.

Dial

The dial undergoes the same vibe as the case. Entirely in matte black, the hour indices are squared and rhodium plated, similarly like the hour and minute hands which are simultaneously filled with Super-Luminova.

The date aperture based at 4:30 is a tough spot if you are quickly glancing down due to its black background and white lettering. Its tactical placement at 4:30 does allow for swift checks without having to rotate the entirety of your wrist.

The minute track is white and stands out clearly against the matte black dial, especially since its many lines draw up nicely against the block like indices.

Bracelet

You history buffs may already know this bracelet. Exclusively designed by Gay Freres just for the brand’s consumption, the “ladder” style bracelet is extremely well regarded since its original presence in 1969. Crafted out of titanium, the bracelet is finished like the case, resulting in a seamless finish throughout.

Why Should I Invest?

Composed of titanium and light as a feather, the Defy Revival Shadow is fitted with one of the finest materials known to the horological world. Its inherent properties of durability and lightness mean it is without doubt rock solid but won’t weigh your wrist down when out on the town...

The bracelet is iconic in its own right. As a representation of the genius works performed by Gay Freres, the Defy Revival Shadow is steeped in heritage. It’s great to see that the brand doesn't hold onto the past like a bad ex. Their completely new creative direction of minimalism and subtlety as opposed to the colourful past of the Defy Revival collection. It’s bold as brass, it’s brave and it’s most certainly a strong option as an investment piece.

Its lack of colour means you can wear this piece however you want. Want to showboat your prized horological baby? Slip on a crisp white suit shirt for the office and raise the sleeves for an obvious gloat. Wanting to live a reserved life without endless compliments?

As for the style stakes, this would work seamlessly with a black jumper for those casual after work drinks or flexed with a sharp suit fresh from the dry cleaners.

You can buy a Zenith Defy Revival Shadow at retail for £6,600.

Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle

Watches can sometimes be a jungle out there. Zenith are on hand though, thoroughly enjoying getting their stunning El Primero movement into every piece possible. Even in watches which look like they’ve emanated from the Amazon!

Defy 21 Urban Jungle - Source - Brand’s Page

At 44mm, it is given a tonneau shape case which is now a quintessential element in the Defy 21 collection. Slightly angled like a Royal Oak the bezel is circular and sturdy due to its khaki green ceramic build.

By its very nature, ceramic doesn’t really have a shine, so the matte style finish is more than suitable for the case. On the side, the rectangular pushers and bulbous crown are crafted out of steel. Even though the caseback is open, it is capable of reaching 100 metres of water resistance. While we would choose a Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 as one of our top dive watches for men, The Defy 21 Urban Jungle is suitable for those smaller splashes in the pool.

Movement

The El Primero 9004 calibre is granted not one but two escapements with two differing purposes.

The general timekeeping functions are powered by 5Hz which is more than enough for the hour, minutes and seconds functions. The chronograph functions are given an even bigger pulse of horological goodness! Powered by not 5 but an impressive 50Hz, the second escapement runs the chronograph functions to 1/100th of a second.

The calibre has 50 hours of power reserve if the chronograph function isn't engaged. As you can expect, 50Hz is one big old drain on the power source. COSC-certified, these watches run you might say like clockwork. Suffice to say, it’s at the front of the race!

Dial

The openworked dial is a funky addition to the khaki style case.

The edge of the dial is given a solid white minute track with black markers, ensuring great legibility against the rest of the dial's face. The hour and minute hands as well as the indices are black with a solid white block of Super-Luminova.

The seconds hand is bright white and accompanied by the classic star counterbalance. The sub-dials are openworked but arranged in a way that promotes high legibility. The two open sub dials located at 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock are made up of a 30-minute register and 60 seconds sub dial respectively.

A small seconds indicator is hard to fully establish due to its highly skeletonised construction at 9 o’clock. As you can appreciate, for a monster movement, a power indicator at 12 o’clock is a very necessary addition to the Urban Jungle.

Due to the dial being openworked, it's essential that the parts marry up to the case. Parts of the calibre are crafted to have a green sheen in order to promote the seamlessness with the case. It’s an excellent green watch to add a little burst of unorthodox refinement into your luxury collection.

Bracelet

The bracelet is crafted out of black rubber and is given a green Cordura effect. This allows the Urban Jungle to look sublime on the wrist, especially when linked with the matt finish of the ceramic case. Meanwhile, the double folding titanium clasp is micro blasted, again adhering to the ruggedness of the piece.

Why Should I Invest?

The Defy 21 line has seen a beautiful update in the form of a green ceramic casing. Ceramic is becoming exceptionally popular nowadays, Have you taken time out to view the Royal Oak Offshore Blue Ceramic!

The skeletonised dial allows for an update as avant-garde as Yohji Yamamoto, responsible for the Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto, launched in 2020 and limited to just 200 pieces. Fast flowing but ultimately amazing, it has speed and style in bucket loads. We can certainly suggest that the Urban Jungle has the potential of being a solid investment piece. If you don’t want to sell your Zenith just yet, it’s a fantastic fashion piece for those darker outfits.

Its combat style colouring means it’ll be potentially tough to casually pull off in an office setting. However, if you go in with a cohesive style like a dark green shirt and black chinos, this timepiece will really accentuate your outfit. Stay away from anything too vibrant as the mystery of the watch will prove counterproductive. Save the flamboyant salmon shirts for the best salmon dials.

You can no longer buy a Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle at retail due to it being discontinued. You can buy one on the secondary market for around £10,000…as of July 2023.

Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier

When a brand comes out with the claim that their collection is the toughest in any category, you immediately stand up and listen. Have we grabbed your attention?

Defy Extreme Glacier - Source - Zenith

Some say it’s a marketing campaign, others say it’s devious trickery to promote sales. They do things a little differently. Regarding their Defy Extreme collection, the brand made the claim that it is the toughest 1/100th of a second chronograph ever made. Best cast our eyes to the latest addition, The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier to see if this is a new dawn or another fairytale.

At 45mm and crafted out of titanium, the watch and case do already live up to the durability criteria. Titanium is tougher and lighter than steel so it stands in great stead. Constructed in the classic Defy fourteen sided bezel, it incorporates a highly unusual material, chalcedony on the pushers and bezel.

So what is chalcedony? Is chalcedony a semi-precious stone? Well, chalcedony is a stone that can’t be replicated meaning each cut is unique, revealing completely new blue shades which emanate from the material. Derived from the Latin word Chalcedonian, this semi-precious stone is utilised in all manner of jewellery such as luxury watches.

If you want to go all out frosty this summer while remaining as cool as that Margharita, get yourself astride the Defy Extreme Glacier!

Movement

Housing the El Primero 21 Calibre 9004 movement, the calibre has been the centrepiece of the brand’s portfolio for over 50 years.

The movement features two regulating organs and escapements which means we get the best of two worlds. One runs at a very respectable 5Hz which manages the timekeeping functions. The other runs at an astounding 50Hz. Just for clarity, that's 360,000VpH! Yes, guys, we believe that your watches will run at an outstanding 1/100th of a second.

With a power reserve of 50 hours, it is weekend-proof for those essential travel plans. Other elements include a 30 minute counter, 60 second counter, small seconds and power reserve indicator at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock respectively.

Dial

As mentioned above, this Swiss brand doesn't like to cover the basics. The Chalcedony is a brilliant effect but it’s called “Glacier '' for a reason. Let’s drop the temperature!

The sapphire crystals on either side of the case are slightly frosted in order to create the appearance that we are looking through an ice that’s glazed over with frost. It helps that the dial is skeletonised, ensuring that the icy allure runs entirely throughout the case and dial.

The brand arent one for horological gimmicks per se and therefore, the frosty finish serves as an actual purpose. As the dial is skeletonised, legibility could be an issue. By essentially reducing the presence of the skeletonised features through the icy aesthetic, the sub-dials are more prominent, as well as the indices and hands.

Bracelet

The bracelet matches the case as it’s similarly made from titanium. Given a brushed finish, the rugged feel of the timepiece is as ever present as Sir Alex Ferguson looming down on the next Manchester United manager.

But let’s kick off with the alternative white rubber strap which has a folding buckle or a black velcro strap with a triple folding titanium clasp.

Admittedly, we love the titanium bracelet as it results in a beautifully seamless design. Of course, rubber is nothing to be sniffed out however as it can easily dress down the seriousness of the titanium timepiece.

Why Should I Invest?

Limited to 50 pieces, it allows for the scarcity and rarity factor to surpass the demand element. After all, doesn’t everyone love a unique piece? What’s more special than a watch that’s literally frosted to the lugs!

The model is a frontrunner in its ability to run at 1/100th of a second. This isn’t a feat you can buy in any boutique, timelords. Oh no. Of course, we know that Zenith are considered top boys of the movement world but to hit such an amazing stat is something that will create quite a stir in horological circles.

What have we got? Unique in its chalcedony and frosted design? Check. Rare? It’s capped at 50 pieces. Is it a timepiece that has the brains as well as the brawn? Crafted out of titanium and bolstered with its incredible 1/100th of a second calibre, we are at the peak of the ice caps, Timelords. Jack Frost need not apply.

You can buy a Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier at retail for £23,100 as of July 2023.

Zenith Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone

Ever looked at an oil slick and thought ‘that would look fantastic on a watch?’ Let’s bring in The Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone!

Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone - Source - Brand’s Page

Spanish Argentinian artist Felipe Pantone and Zenith have been scratching each other's backs since 2020, resulting in a number of very exciting watches. Their latest release has caused murmurings and pulse checking across the timekeeping stratosphere.

The Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone is crafted out of stainless steel. Admittedly, that’s not very exciting, however, if you’ll give us a few extra moments, you’ll see why it is so riveting. In fact we think it may even be grail-worthy.

The case features transparent YAS elements which vastly alters the sheen of the polished steel. YAS, or yttrium aluminosilicate to those science nerds, is a glass like material that offers a variety of iridescence and metallic glows which bolsters the otherworldly aesthetic of the piece.

As part of the Defy Extreme collection, the bezel enjoys the signature twelve sided design. The coloured sheen promotes each sharp line and angle which looks spectacular from every direction.

Movement

The El Primero calibre 9004 is like Tyson Fury. Strong, powerful but can’t be expected to fight every day. Although try saying that to the Gypsy King.

The calibre runs at a knockout 50Hz in one escapement which obviously takes up a lot of power. As such, the general timekeeping functions are powered by the other 5Hz escapement. Don’t sleep on it, Timelords. 5Hz is still immense.

With a 50 hour power reserve, these particular watches have the capability of heartily running along, on the proviso that the chronograph is not engaged.

Dial

The iridescence of the case similarly matches the vibe of the dial. A transparent sapphire disc is used as the base of the dial and it undergoes a series of patterns which offer an incredible set of hues.

Among all the colour and scintillating finishes, the sub dials are not lost in the mix. Take for example the 30 minute totaliser at 3 o’clock. Given a rainbow outline for each minute indice, visibility is clearly high on the agenda and adds a pop of colour. Perfect for this summer!

The 60 second sub dial at 6 o’clock focuses much more on minimalism thanks to black and white edging as opposed to the rainbow design of the 30 minute totaliser. The hour and minute hands are given a 3D PVD effect which follows the vibrancy of the timepiece. The seconds hand is given a star emblem at its head and is given a metallic colouring. I don’t think we need to mention that the indices and hands are coated in Super-Luminova.

Bracelet

We’re in luck, Time Peeps!

From the polished steel bracelet to a blue silicone strap, both options have a glow that is perfectly apt to the dial and case. You have the option of a black or blue velcro strap but our preferences lie with the matching steel strap or casual blue silicone strap.

Why Should I Invest?

Capped at 100 pieces, this holographic timepiece is as rare as it is lucid. As anyone financially minded knows, rarity equates to demand which is good news if you want to buy a Zenith as a potential investment.

As hallucinogenic as Woodstock in 1969, you may find yourself in the Summer of Love when you set your eyes on this beauty. Colour and vibrancy is universal, no matter the language barrier. We can expect this firecracker of a timepiece to rise high and blow up in a display of interest. While yellow gold is fashionable, it’s not a prerequisite to looking fantastic.

We recommend taking it easy when wearing this timepiece. Keep the colours neutral and let the timepiece do its stuff. Versatile and easy on the wrist, we think white shirts for summer days or black suit jackets if you are searching for a snappy dress watch to impress the CEO’s and business partners. If you wanted a talking point, this is it.

You can buy a Zenith Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone at retail for £25,300 at the time of writing.

Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Boutique Edition

The Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Boutique Edition brings along a new colour scheme to the collection, as well as prioritising rapid movements with stunning luxury refinery.

Defy Skyline Skeleton - Source - Zenith

Measuring 41mm, the Defy Skyline Skeleton is crafted out of stainless steel. With classic durable material fit for those bumps and bashes, the watches bezel is designed in such a way that it strongly resembles the classic octagonal design and four point star Zenith logo that has been around since the 1960s.

Featuring a brushed finish throughout, it adheres to the rough and ready nature of the aviation business. There are some hints of polishing as seen on the edges of the bezel and the case.

Movement

Chances are, you’ve definitely heard of the El Primero movement.

Running at 36,000 VpH, the El Primero can bob and weave quicker than Mike Tyson in his prime. We will even go as far as to say that it’s one of a kind. Capable of performing 10 ticks per second, the watch competently runs a 1/10th of a second rate.

There’s not many other watches which can lay claim to such a grandeur statement. As such, The Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is absolutely one to look out for when it comes to investment potential.

Dial

Life moves very fast nowadays…one might say as speedy as the El Primero movement (well, not quite).

The grey and silver aspects harks to the modernisation of the timepiece, away from the classic four point star skeletonised dial and the octagonal bezel. Of course, us horologists love nothing more than a little twist of colour! The dial features small tinges of gold on the Zenith star logo under 12 o’clock, plus the hands and indices.

Dosed with Super-Luminova and finished with a beautiful golden ray, the watch has the added sub dial at 6 o’clock which references the 1/10th of a second speed of the piece. It’s perfect for those time peeps searching for the ultimate everyday watch.

Bracelet

The bracelet options are short and sweet. You can either get dolled up in a stainless steel bracelet or slap on a rubber strap. The rubber strap is complemented with a sea of stars as an ode to the far out capabilities of this luxury number.

Why Should I Invest?

Powered by the phenomenal El Primero movement and complemented with a highly avant-garde, skeletonised design, it is exciting and invigorating while representing Zenith’s aims through their luxury watches.

Their focus on maintaining speed and incorporating it with a durable yet comfy timepiece is epitomised perfectly. Luxury sports watches don’t get much better than this, Timelords! We do expect a strong following though and was a hot release for 2023. Sure, it doesn't have a salmon dial but it’s one heck of a horological powerhouse!

Keep it sharp with a powder blue tux or a camel overcoat for those days when you need to look your best in the glistening autumnal sun.

As of July 2023, you can buy a Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Boutique at retail for £9,700.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow

Closely mimicking the watches of the 1970s, the Revival Shadow is built with a stunning black micro blasted titanium case.

Chronomaster Revival - Source - Zenith

In case you forgot, titanium is unbelievably well regarded in the horological world. Immensely durable and significantly lighter than steel, the material is lauded from here to Switzerland and beyond. At 37mm, it does seem quite small which is perfect for the modern user and on trade phenomenon for slimmer watches. Say goodbye to big steely monsters and hello to sleek wearability.

Movement

Powered by the timeless El Primero movement, the watch is instantly stamped with a high quality movement that’s been running for many years.

Kitted up with 282 components, it runs at a fantastic 36,000VpH or 5Hz to the horology nerds. Offering a 50 hour power reserve, the Revival is capable of having your back over a weekend. We can’t see why you’d ever dream of taking it off…

Dial

The dial is pitch matte black, ensuring everything else on top is instantly visible. Its moody build may make this one of our top special occasion watches.

The classic seconds track and date aperture is removed for a simpler and less confused dial face. Featuring a 12 hour chronograph sub dial at 6 o’clock, a 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds sub dial at 9 o’clock, it also enjoys a tachymetric scale on its dial periphery.

Who knows, at the pace this runs, you may need to calculate speed quickly especially when dashing to make those important meetings.

Bracelet

The Revival is given a black condura effect strap with a micro blasted titanium pin buckle. It suits the matte black styling of the case and allows the entire piece to be seamless. If you want to harness your inner timekeeping ninja, this is certainly the piece for you.

Why Should I Invest?

Dressed all in black like Johnny Cash, you won’t be muttering any mournful tunes with this on!

Crafted out of titanium, the Revival prides itself on its dark, mysterious colouring. By removing the date aperture and minute track, it strips back any unnecessary features, allowing the timepiece to be less cluttered.

With its immense movement and slicked back design, this timepiece can be worn with a crisp white suit shirt or dressed down with a snappy green cashmere jumper to keep the ensemble looking cohesive. Look, we’re all for sports watches, but this is a completely different breed!

As of July 2023, you can buy a Zenith Chronomaster Revival at retail for £7,900.

Zenith Chronomaster Open

The Zenith Chronomaster Open offers a new lease of horological life to the Chronomaster collection.

Chronomaster Open - Source - Reddit

Measuring 39.5mm in diameter and constructed out of steel. Zenith knows what they are doing with steel, especially because of its robust properties and classy finish when polished or brushed. The bezel is polished to a mirror like sheen while the case is brushed, aside from the edges of the lugs and case sides which are also polished.

Well, we always want to make sure you are looking as dapper as possible. There are no fourteen sided bezel or star shaped embellishments going on here. No tricks of the mind that Derren Brown would be envious of.

Subtle in its grace which is a feature we can most certainly appreciate, it may not be a unicorn watch, but enjoys a level of sophistication which the switched on gentleman is all too familiar with.

Movement

Running on the El Primero movement, it is made up of 269 components and runs like a dream. With a fantastic 36,000VpH frequency, the Chronomaster Open comfortably reaches 60 hours of power reserve. Who needs to look good with an engine that is only comparable to the best luxury sports car brands!

Dial

The Chronomaster Open does things a little differently when it comes to the dial face.

We’ve seen a skeletonised dial. We’ve seen a matte black dial. What about a healthy mix of both? The black dial is partially exposed, revealing the phenomenal El Primero movement through the 9 o’clock sub dial and another gap above it.

Following the sub-dial design of the original Chronomaster models, they are given tri-colours in a navy and grey colouring. The small seconds sub dial located at 9 o’clock is skeletonised so we are left totally unaware! We love that it has a certain degree of colour which brightens up the industrial feel of the skeletonised timepiece.

Featuring silver hands and indices, the dial is incredibly legible, especially since they are dosed with Super-Luminova.

Bracelet

The bracelet is made from steel and integrated into the watch itself. This small design configuration allows the entire watch to be infinitely more seamless and look a lot sharper on the wrist.

Why Should I Invest?

It’s rare to see a partially skeletonised timepiece nowadays. Like some poker hands, it’s either all in or not at all. This quirky design feature is a possible selling point for those seeking their next horological buddy, especially since it’s gazing into arguably one of the greatest calibres of all time.

The tri-colour sub dials relate to the heritage of the Chronomaster, especially since this novelty has a matte black dial which makes them stand out significantly more. Due to its heritage and strong relationship with such an outstanding movement, it is certainly worth considering the Zenith Chronomaster Open as a possible investment piece. We’ll save the vintage pieces for another time. Zenith is all about progression.

Feeling like you want to wear your heart on your sleeve? Pair this with a blood red suit shirt for those dinner dates with your loved one. Too formal? Slip on some chinos and a simple Tee when you want to wear this piece when dining with friends.

As of July 2023, you can buy a Zenith Chronomaster Open at retail for £8,800

Zenith Elite Classic

Zenith isn’t just about The El Primero calibre. Picks mouth up off the floor for a second...While we won’t go into that just yet, be warned…There is no El Primero movement.

Elite Classic - Source - Zenith

Providing 40mm of stainless steel, it is a tad tight and compact with its focus being on complete refinement. Due to the small lugs and case sides, the bezel looks quite bulbous. As such, it is superbly polished, allowing the piece to not look as tacky as the latest episode of Love Island. We think it’s perfect for a man who knows his fashion.

Zenith seeks to take the helm of contemporary dress watches with the Elite Classic. With the circular casing, if it wasn't for the Zenith text and iconic star emblem on the dial, we’d have no idea it came from such an illustrious brand.

Movement

Running on the Elite movement that’s made up of 144 components, this timepiece beats at a solid 28,800VpH and offers a 50 hour power reserve, meaning it falls under the “weekend-proof” category.

Admittedly, it’s nowhere near the immense quality of the El Primero movement. Don’t be overly dismayed by that, however. The Elite movement is still more than acceptable in relation to the rest of horology.

Dial

The dial is finished with excellence in mind. The blue sunray dial is given sharp white lines that emanate from the centre of the dial outwards. The hands and hour markers are tapered and polished to allow instant legibility at a moment's glance.

The Dauphine hands are actually an ode to watches from the 20th century as that was Zenith’s style back in the day. Did you know that neo-vintage watches are immensely popular nowadays among enthusiasts? Like Doctor Martens and flared jeans, some things never go out of style.

The minutes and seconds track fits in with the blue and white colour scheme, offering no confusion with the rest of the dial. It adds yet another level of depth that could be considered to be missing due to the sheer minimalism of the piece.

Bracelet

Fitted with a blue alligator leather strap, the strap is further protected by a rubber lining to ensure its longevity. Secured with a stainless steel pin buckle, it is perfect for the distinguished gentleman.

Why Should I Invest?

If you are looking to buy a watch with definite vintage feel, a calibre that’s more than acceptable for modern day use and a style design that is incredibly unorthodox for the Zenith collection, you should definitely consider this as an investment piece.

The uncommon dial face is striped with a variety of sunray style white lines and hands are exceptionally tapered and refined on the dial face. It may be worth pairing this beauty with an equally blue corduroy shirt for those evenings out in London town. We believe it is a great dress watch for all sorts of lavish occasions.

You can buy a Zenith Elite Classic at retail for £5,300 as of July 2023.

Conclusion

Well, Timelords. We’ve shown you the incredible world of the best Zenith watches to buy and invest in 2024. They’re one of the timekeeping stalwarts of the horological universe and their endless pursuit of innovative design and high quality movements is nothing short of remarkable. In this way, these are our hot picks of the best Zenith watches for investment in 2024.

While these novelties may not have wacky nicknames like the Rolex Submariner “Hulk” or sexy sultry salmon dials like the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon Dial, the brand have exceptionally welded Haute Horlogerie with their incredible El Primero calibre befitting of the most revolutionary designs.

Comparable brands feature Hublot Classic Fusion Gold Crystal or Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 collection. To say that the brand hasn't at least twitched your timekeeping noses would be pure fallacy. We look forward to seeing what they come up with next.

Mind you, they are almost at the peak of horological watchmaking already. Who knows what they will have in store when Watches and Wonders 2024 comes flying off the timekeeping conveyor belt.

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