Sleeker case, reimagined design language, moon phase complication and high-end French watchmaking make the Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm the talk of the town, before doors open at Watches and Wonders 2025.

 

At A Glance

• Founded on 1st January 1973 by Émile Pequignet in Morteau, in the Jura region, over the past five decades, the brand has seamlessly blended traditional Swiss horological techniques with French elegance, establishing itself in Haute Horlogerie.
• As noteworthy as a bottle of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, the Franche-Comté resident has style to match a catwalk at London Fashion Week with elegant designs and the Calibre Royal, launched in 2011 as their first in-house movement.
• The last independent French Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie, they are infamous for several horological milestones including creating the Moorea link and their first flying tourbillon in Geneva last year. 
• Cleaner, sharper and sleeker, the new Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm comes fresh to the horological table, in the nick of time for Watches and Wonders 2025.
• Refined from the case and dial to the bezel and hands, with movement components hand picked, less than 80km from the Manufacture, they have modernised the case diameter from 41mm to 39mm, showcasing high end French watchmaking heritage.
• With sandblasted “gouge” and majesty to match some of the best watch brands, this new model is presented in two variations, a Day Date Moon Phase with elegant north, south hemispheres, and Power Reserve Small Seconds

 

As Phil Collins once declared in 1981;

 

“I can feel it coming in the air tonight

Oh, Lord

And I've been waiting for this moment, for all my life

Oh, Lord

Can you feel it coming in the air tonight?

Oh, Lord

Oh, Lord”

And there’s definitely a horological tinge to knock the Hulk clean off his feet. We are of course talking about Watches and Wonders 2025. Where legends are made, and dreams are unfurled onto baying connoisseurs, collectors and enthusiasts. 

The Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm has come straight out of the timekeeping traps, before things get underway in Geneva between April 1st and April 7th. 

Casting a spotlight on not only the timepiece but the Calibre Royale, the only French made Haute Horlogerie movement that’s produced and designed in the country, you might want to close the security gates at Palexpo for a second.

Why? Because they have beaten the horological rabble to it. 

And in double quick time, before Rolex, Tudor and, ahem, Thierry Stern’s Patek Philippe take to the grand daddy of horological stages.

READ MORE: The Top 20 Most Popular Patek Philippe Watches For Men

But talk is cheap. 

We are here for one thing, and one thing only. The Franc-Comtoise Manufacture has been pushing the boundaries of French watchmaking for the best part of five decades. 

Originating in 1973, when Great Britain joined the European Economic Community, unlike Keir Starmer, this brand is not stuck in a timewarp.

Roll on this year, and a lot of refining and retuning has been going on in this execution, from added precision to the inward angles, evoking a more sculpted profile. 

And the result?

Look, if this was the Eurovision Song Contest, we wouldn’t expect any “nil points” from any panel, be it Skopje, Rome or anywhere in between.

However, let’s take a minute to look at what’s so special about the Royale collection, before diving in, like a new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean WorldTimer into the Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm.

We will let you be the judge and jury this time…

 

Royale Family

No, we are not here to harp on about legendary watches worn by the Royal Family. 

A sense of stateliness presiding over the Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm. Source: Hugo Burnand/Buckingham Palace via Getty Images

 

We are here to wax lyrical on the grandeur of the Royale collection. Designed with the intention of improving the iconic Calibre Royal that they are as renowned for as Prince Harry flexes Breitling, it’s the total embodiment of what the brand symbolizes. 

Incorporating numerous complications, as per the exquisite moon phase lying within the new Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm, only the finest tuning and highest nous has gone into assembling these timepieces. Besides, this is no ordinary family tree. 

There are five models attributed to the Royale lineup.

• Origine

The personification of craftsmanship, this lineup doesn't mess around with cases that are composed of either round polished steel or rose gold. This comes with a silvered, black, blue or green dial that captures the sunlight majestically.

OUR PICK: Sunray green dial with power reserve (9010193)

• Sapphire

For devoted horophiles who want to buy a watch that is wrist ready for the Oscars or Emmys, the signature openworked dial and blue accents bear resemblance to stained glass. For an extra bit of glam, there is added complexity initiating from the movement via a shaded sapphire disc. 

OUR PICK: Ruby Red dial, cassa in acciaio (9010862)

• Grand Sport

If you like your timepieces with a big attitude like Panerai (or is that Paneristi?) fave Sly Stallone, look no further than this number. Dreaming on a grander scale? At 44mm, here’s your timekeeping ticket to success with epic proportions and enhanced refinement, synonymous with the Calibre Royal.

OUR PICK: Opaline black dial, date display and moon phase (9030443)

• Titane

If you are looking for the thrills and spills of a TAG Heuer or Rolex Daytona, but searching for an alternative with unique French aesthetics, why not consider this range. As Survivor sang, this model is certainly Risin' up to the challenge. 

Constructed of titanium it is both tough and packed full of energetic spirit. Leaning on pilot design visuals, the Titane stays true to the evergreen sporty roots of watchmaking, complete with sunburst dial, excellent legibility, contrasting indexes and extensive power reserves.

OUR PICK: Sunray charcoal grey dial, date display (9032733)

• Paris

Featuring polishing and satin finishing as well as sandblasted dials across numerous declinations like opaline, black and blue dials, the vertical moon phases steal the show here 

Worn with immense pride, it is symmetry, sophistication and timelessness at its finest that’s oozing refinement. If you want to be the ultimate flaneur, strolling down the Champs-Elysees (or anywhere else!) this range is literally poetry in motion.

OUR PICK: Aventurine dial, limited edition, 30 pieces (9007063)

Whether dressed to impress for that boardroom meeting, or special occasion, admire the transparent caseback on all models with beautiful finishing and sublime wrist appeal.

Besides, one shouldn’t be constrained, when it comes to time…should they?

 

Personality Of The Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm

Beauty is only skin deep…

But when it’s worn on the wrist it takes even more time to decipher the wheat from the chaff. Here, we are presented with a new execution that will definitely not grind your gears.

Reduced from 41mm to a slimmer 39.5mm the case shape has been refined within an inch (or should that be mm!) of its being.

Throw in an approximate 12mm thickness, and you have an interesting proposition that has distinctive attached lugs which is only offered on this model, across their entire series of watches.

In terms of measurements, this is half a millimeter less than a Rolex Yacht-Master 40 reference 12622 and around half a millimeter less than a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001. Take that Thierry..

Slinky and most definitely understated, there’s recessed flanks, softened inward angles with brushing across the top of the dial and polishing found on the side. And we have just got this party started. 

Bolder than Captain Kirk and more defined than Gerard Butler, there are lots of other aspects to get giddy about. Take for example, the reworkings of the case which has a concave hollow and gouge surrounding the outer periphery of the silvery dial.

Meanwhile, the timepiece has undergone a geometric transformation that Albert Einstein would be proud of. Think the reduced bezel, which stands at 0.75mm alongside a domed sapphire glass box that’s been given the AR treatment. 

League Of Their Own: Intricate workings of the Calibre Royal with traditional fleur-de-lis emblem

And don’t worry…we said AR, not AI, with every process well thought out and planned to perfection.

We are gifted with a textured surface, sandblasted gouge and a duo of subdials that overlap each other with the utmost care.

These refer to the small seconds counter positioned at 4 o’clock which benefits from being grooved and recessed, enjoying concentric circles that makes for first class visual architecture.

In addition, located at 6 o’ clock, there are two moon phase discs, accommodating northern and southern hemispheres while the rail track adds greater depth to the overall offering.

If, like He-Man, you want to have the power, the indicator is based at 8 o’clock with a miniscule pointer hand and polished steel hands. The latter is given a generous daubing of TC1 Superluminova.

But if that’s not enough, satin-finished and polished matchstick style indices are present with a front and centre aesthetic of the day and date indicators. This has been double-framed for extra clarity, sitting prettily below the brand logo at 12. 

Now who said the French don’t do watchmaking?

We’ve saved the best till last, the star of the show if you will. Hang on a tick. We are of course talking about the moon phase complication. You’ll be howling with delight and it packs in more dimension than the Twilight Zone. 

For the first occasion, like waking up on Christmas morning, gawp in delight at the seductive pair of defined discs, encapsulating both north and south hemispheres.

This is portrayed as the text in French on the dial entitled nord, hémisphère and sud with Manufacture Francaise on the small seconds totaliser. 

Rounded off with diamond polishing, it marries harmony and depth, with the lunar image on the dial an actual representation based on an image of the moon’s surface.

Ok, so it doesn’t have the heritage or notoriety of, let’s say an Omega Speedmaster or sought after Silver Snoopy.  

But it might be the next best thing to launch a new or existing collection…

 

Official Specs - Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm

Reference	9100633
Case Diameter	39.5mm
Case Thickness	11.5mm
Dial Colour	Silver
Moon Phase	Based at 6 o’clock with diamond polishing on both discs
Crystal Type	Box Sapphire
Hours and Minutes Hands	Polished Steel
Strap Colour	Light Brown Alligator
Clasp Style	Steel Folding
Lug to Lug	47mm
Lug Width	20mm
Water Resistance	50 metres / 5ATM / 5 Bar / 165 feet
Super Luminova	TC1 (Blue)
Limited Edition	No

 

Calibre Royal

At the heart of the new Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm beats the iconic Calibre Royal.

Officially the first of its kind (and French-made) to house those all important complications on the same disc, the main elements are given a central alignment, pertaining to the “French formal garden” description designated by Japanese watchmakers, thanks to its perfectly aligned symmetrical composition.

With not one but 8 international patents and 318 components, the single barrel is now beefed up from an impressive 88 hours to a 96 hour power reserve. That’ll get you through at least the weekend at Watches and Wonders 2025…with some juice left over.

Affixed with six secure screws and enjoying perlage and bi-directional winding rotor, marvel at the exhibition caseback. 

Inside, you can gaze at the Willy Wonka delights inside thanks to a large single barrel located at 8, double large date and day aperture with instant jump, crown winding system, day/night indicator, moon phase and double UTC time zone. 

Don’t forget the diamond shaped balance wheel, stripes and intricate fleur-de-lis crest.

Hand produced in their workshops based in Morteau, the Calibre Royal is no doubt put through its paces, achieving the highest standard of chronometric accuracy with an average of +2/-2 seconds per day.

To put that into perspective, this is akin to the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Certification, say on a Submariner or Sea-Dweller. And we’ve got our hands and thumbs up for that.

 

Official Movement Specs

Type of Movement	Automatic
Number of Jewels	39
Compensating Screws	Yes
Frequency	21,600
Number of Barrels	1
Oscillating Weight	Yes, sunray and rhodium
Power Reserve	96 hours
Large Balance	Yes with compensating screws
Functions	hours, minutes, power reserve, small seconds, large date on two discs, day of the week, moon phase indicator
Daily Accuracy	+2/-2 seconds

 

Where Can You Buy A Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm?

Introduced on an alligator leather strap in a light brown accent with accompanying steel folding clasp, prices start at 8,000 Euros (approximately £6,700) for this novelty.

Note, there will be a host of interchangeable straps across different materials, with a metal strap due to launch in September 2025. A groundbreaking feat for this particular model.

It is offered as a;

• Day-Date-Moon phase variation (opaline, royal blue, and green dial colours)
• Power Reserve Small Seconds (opaline and royal blue.)

 

AVAILABILITY ALERT

They cannot be purchased until June 2025.

More information can be found here

 

What’s Our View?

It’s finally time for our two cents on the Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm.

The new design and redefined aspects are a nice touch. On top of this, the attached lugs make the collection a USP. The interplay of textures and finishes blend with the ultra refined French watchmaking heritage that are no doubt worth examining here. 

The distinctive moon phase adds depth, luminosity and a touch of elegance to the overall concept, kicking the Snoopy Moonswatch right into touch.

We also like the reduction in case size to suit contemporary wearers, ticking the Goldilocks box in terms of measurements. 

Sure, they may not be the first name that rolls off the tongue when discussing the top Swiss luxury watch brands, like Cartier, Vacheron Constantin et al.

Though they have many plus points that may sway you to buy a watch from them. They may not pack a punch in the history stakes as per Zenith, Omega and Audemars Piguet who have storied histories stretching back 150 plus years, in some scenarios.

Nevertheless, in around half a century, the Manufacture has a few impressive horological strings to its bow, especially its Calibre Royal, the jewel within this brand new novelty. 

 

Conclusion

On the face of it, there is no denying the Manufacture’s dedication to watchmaking artistry and improving their movements. 

Sure, Haute Couture never goes out of fashion. 

But what about French Haute Horlogerie? There’s a new sheriff in town, in the shape of Pequignet. And with the introduction in 2025 of two new Concorde novelties - the Concorde Titane and Concorde OR, it might well be time for take off. 

Note the signature link that takes inspiration after the Moorea from 1984, with a nod to the legendary obelisk situated in the Place de la Concorde, Paris. It is these subtle nuances and details that take their craftsmanship, innovation and brand to the next level. 

So if you want to buy a watch with a little je ne sais quoi, this might well be your flight of fancy…

 

Want to buy a Cartier Drive de Cartier Moon Phase or buy a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony at the best possible price? It’s time to contact Chrono Hunter today. 

Contact us here to find out why we are transforming the industry with our market leading platform. Receive multiple offers from our established network of the best luxury watch retailers to obtain the best possible deal. 

Whether purchase or sale, we guarantee 100% authenticity, security and safety, going the extra mile to deliver the most seamless customer experience. 

Catering to all manner of aficionados and consumers, covering all major brands such as Patek Philippe, IWC, Audemars Piguet, Rolex and Breitling, we are the go-to platform to buy a watch or sell a watch fast.

 

 

Discover, hunt, buy, sell

 

Further Reading: 

On The Clock With Sébastien Gobert Creative Director Of Zenith Watches   

Images: 

(Unless otherwise stated) Pequignet

 

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

Compare Offers from the world's most reputable luxury watch retailers.

Save Time.

 Save Money. 

 Personalised Service. 

Hassle-Free.